 Hi what's up you guys this is your girl so with with brit and welcome back again to my youtube channel. So today we are going to learn the basic bodice approach by denik chunman law. I got this book from my friend few years back hello there etiquette thank you so much for this book and few weeks ago I received a comment from my subscriber to try to create the basic bodice pattern making of this book and I am beyond excited because this book is very different from the helen joseph armstrong's approach anyway to learn the pattern making and as well for the mock-up or test towards the end make it sure to continue on watching to see the full creative process. Here are the tools and the materials that I'll be using for this tutorial. We have the pattern cutting book, fabric for mock-up or test, cartolina paper, paper and fabric scissors, measuring tape, pen and pencil, tracing wheel and a razor and fashion rulers. Before we head to the pattern drafting we must first get these measurements. Nape to waist, bust circumference, waist circumference, front cross shoulder, back cross shoulder, shoulder length, bust point, bust span, cross front, cross back, front body length, back body length, neck circumference, arm holster circumference, and arm hold depth. These are the measurements I got from my dress form mind you that my measurements will be different from yours and please include the added tolerance on your own measurements. So now let's move on to the pattern drafting process. Step 1. The frame. Begin by drawing a rectangle frame, first draw a horizontal line 2 inches up from the bottom of your paper. Next draw a right hand vertical line perpendicular to the horizontal line. From the vertical line, mark out the width of the frame, please pause the video to see the formula. Connect all the marks and draw a vertical line. Next from the horizontal line, mark up the back body length measurement. Connect all the marks and draw a horizontal line. So now I have my rectangle frame, label the lower line waistline. Next divide the rectangle frame in half vertically. And in here I am marking in the half of the width of my frame. Connect all of the marks and draw a vertical line. Draw the right side front and center front and the left side back and center back. Step 2. Depth of armhole. From the upper horizontal line, mark down the armhole depth. Pause the video for the formula. Next, connect all the marks and draw a horizontal line. Label this line armhole depth. Step 3. Neck opening. This is the front neckline. From the center front line, mark out downwards the front neckline width and draw a dotted line. Pause this video for the formula. Next, mark down outwards the front neckline height and draw a dotted line. Again, pause this video for the formula. Next draw a curve for the front neckline. This should be an oval shape. For the back neck, mark up the nape to waist measurement from the waistline and draw a dotted line. From the center backline, mark in the back neckline width and draw a dotted line. Pause this video for the formula. Next, draw a curve for the back neckline. This should look like a boat shape. Step 4. Bus point and bust span. From the center front line, mark in the bust span measurement. Next from the shoulder neck point, mark down bust point perpendicular to the bust span. Your bust point should look like a plus sign, like this one. Next, step 5, shoulder point. Next locate the front cross shoulder. From the center front line, mark in the half of front cross shoulder. From the center backline, mark in the half of back cross shoulder. Next, from the front cross shoulder, mark down 1 6 8 inch and this is the standard measurement for the front shoulder slant. From the front shoulder slant, draw a dotted line towards shoulder neck point. For the back shoulder slant, mark down 1 4 8 inches from the back shoulder cross. From the back shoulder slant, draw a dotted line towards the shoulder neck point. So this is my complete back and front shoulder points. Next, step 6, back shoulder dart. For the back shoulder dart, mark in 2 inches from the shoulder neck point along the dotted line. And next, mark in 4 8 inch opening for the dart. From the 2 inch mark, extend a 3 inches line going towards the center back. Connect the 4 8 mark to the 3 inches end point completing the dart. Next, fold to close the back shoulder dart. From the shoulder neck point, mark out the shoulder length measurement. And extend a line from shoulder neck point to the shoulder length mark. And trace the dart using your tracing wheel. And now the back shoulder is complete. Next, step 7, front shoulder dart. From the shoulder neck point, mark in 2 inches along the dotted line. Draw a line connecting the dotted lines. From the bus point, mark out 5 8 inch to 6 8 inch. Connect the 2 inches mark and the 5 8 inch mark from the bus point. From the first dart leg, mark out another 2 inches along the dotted line. And this is for the dart opening. Connect this mark to the 5 8 inch mark from the bus point completing the dart legs. Next, fold to close the front shoulder dart. Extend a line from the shoulder neck point. And mark in the shoulder length measurement. And trace the dart using your tracing wheel. Next, draw the traced lines of the dart opening. So now we have the back and front shoulder darts. Next is step 8, creating the armholes. From the shoulder neck point, mark down 5 inches and this line should be parallel to the center back line and draw a dotted line. Next, from the 5 inches mark, extend a horizontal line. From center back line, mark in the cross back measurement and pause this video for the formula. For the front, from the shoulder neck point, mark down 5 inches and this line should be parallel to the center front line. For the cross front, we have to fold to close the front shoulder dart. And extend a horizontal line from the 5 inches mark. From center front line, mark in the cross front measurement and pause this video for the formula. Next, step 9, curve for the armholes. Connect the shoulder length mark to the cross front mark to the underarm point or the front armhole dart. For the back, it is the same procedure as the front armhole. Now that I have completed the armholes, I'll be moving on to the next step which is the front waist dart. Extend a vertical dotted line from bus point parallel to the center front line. Use bus span measurement for the weave. From the bus point, mark down 5 eighths inch to 6 eighths inch. From the dotted vertical line, mark out 7 eighths inch to 1 inch marks each side for the dart opening. Connect these marks towards the 5 eighths inch mark from the bus point completing the legs for the waist dart. From the shoulder neck point, extend a vertical dotted line and mark in the front body length. The front body length is longer than the frame and we will need to adjust the length of the front waist. And from the center front line, mark down 2 eighths inch. Next, draw a slight curve from the front body length mark going to the 2 eighths inch mark. Next, fold to close your waist dart. Using the tracing wheel, trace the dart and also the readjusted line of the dart. Next, draw the trace lines of the dart opening. Next step, step 11, back waist dart. From the end of the shoulder dart, extend a vertical line towards the waist line parallel to the center back line. At the end of the shoulder dart, draw a light horizontal line. Divide the distance between the end of the shoulder dart and the armhold depth line into 3 equal parts. Get the measurement of the distance and divide by 3 and mark this vertically. Pause the video for the formula. From these marks, extend horizontal dotted lines. So here are the sections 1, 2, 3 and the first one will be the end of the dart for the waist dart. From the vertical line, mark out 6 eighths inch both sides total of 1 for 8th inches. Connect the marks towards the end of the dart. Next, step 12, side seam dart. So now we've already removed 2 inches for the front waist dart and 1 for 8th inches for the back waist dart. We still got 1 for 8th inches of excess to remove. From the side seam line, mark out 6 eighths inch on both sides. Connect these marks to the underarm point. Next, draw a slide curve from the front waist dart to the side seam. And close the back waist dart and draw a slide curve. And don't forget to trace the back dart with your tracing wheel. And here's my finished pattern. And the only way to know if the fit is good is to test it on a mock-up. So let's do it. Et voilà! Here's my mock-up for this pattern. I'm glad this pattern has 2 darts, shoulder and waist darts. Unlike with Helen pattern, it only has 1 dart. And I also love the fit, there are no alterations needed actually. Here's the side view. Just like the Helen pattern, the arm hole is lowered and I guess it's for the fit purposes. And lastly, the back view. Like other bodices, the Denic pattern also has 2 darts, shoulder and waist darts for the back which is great for fit. I am satisfied with the Denic-Chenman loss system or approach. The fit is actually great compared to Helen Joseph Armstrong's approach. Both are great books. This book actually has an alterations chapter and complete illustrations on how to take up measurements. With Denic, there are instructions for measurements but there are no illustrations and also there are no alterations chapter. Overall I love these 2 books, they're part of my essentials. I suggest you get these 2 books and if you are a beginner, pattern cutting by Denic Chenman Law is perfect for you. Anyways you guys, if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and if you are not subscribed yet to my youtube channel, so with Whit Whit make it sure to hit that subscribe and bell button to be notified with my new tutorials. I'll see you guys again on my next tutorial. Bye!