 Alright guys so this is going to be just a quick tip. This isn't a full haircut. You can see that we already have a shag look to it. What I want to kind of go over today is you can see how it gets heavier in the back here. This was a great look for somebody that wanted to wear this a little wavier and kind of have that build up of weight in there. But what I want to do is kind of cut into that, show you guys some techniques that'll actually take this weight line out. We're going to add a little bit of texture and layers and then I'm going to go in and start the color. First thing is with dry cutting I like to use more of a wide tooth comb. So this is the YS Park 332 comb. I like that because it allows me to get through the hair a lot easier. It doesn't pull as much tension. When you're cutting dry hair and you pull a lot of tension, it pulls the hair from where it naturally wants to live. So first thing's first, I want to take out this weight. I want to get the haircut where I want it to be. And then I'm going to go in and do my color technique. I'm looking at this shape. I actually really dig it. It's got kind of that off the face, open up the face feel, and then it's got some weight that's getting pushed towards. So we've got some heavy corners in here. So what I want to do is go in and take out some of that. What I'll do is I'll tilt my guess head forward, comb the hair down so I can really see that weight. I can see how it kind of curves down that way and then it collapses right here in the back in the nape area. So you can see how it gets really soft. So I want to make that a nice smooth transition. So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take a vertical parting straight down the center. I'm going to hold that out. Now you could see there's a slight disconnection in there and that heavier weight that falls over. That's where you're getting that build up of density there. So what I'm going to do is just come in here and I'm going to use a tease cutting technique to half close the scissor and just take away that weight line and lift and elevate as I pull up. And what that's going to do is remove that weight line and soften it. Now the thing I like about doing the tease cutting technique is that I'm not creating a really blunt line. So blunt lines are what can really cause a lot of weight in a haircut. So I come up through here and then I'm lifting the hair and half open, half closing the scissor as I lift through. Again, vertical bringing everything out from the head because this is a shag. I don't mind it does have these corners that I actually really like so I want to keep them. So what I'm doing is I'm going to pull everything straight back. This comes straight back and then I go to my next section straight back out of the head. Next section straight back, not over directing it into the middle. I'm not trying to push too much weight over but I'm just pulling it straight back keeping a nice horizontal line within the weight there. And again going back into that tease cutting and you'll see me scoop underneath the hair like this. That's so that I'm always consistently pulling the new hair into my guide instead of pushing my guide into the new hair. So I scoop underneath, bring it back to me. There's where the that disconnection starts and I'm just going to go in and soften it and you can see how shattered that is in the line. That's what's going to really soften that weight. You can see already how that's starting to kind of collapse and lay nicer. I don't mind a little bit of weight because it is a shag and it's going to have a ton of movement and layers in there but I didn't want that kind of heavy base sitting in it. So then if there's any leftover weight that I just want to remove just a slight bit I'll take my scissor just like this and again it's a half close of the scissor and I'll pinch the hair and kind of cut into that corner a little bit just to soften it. You should be able to see how this side is falling a lot softer than this heavier kind of bulky side. So it just allows your shape to lay nicer especially when your guest goes to style it because that's what you know the difference is between coming in doing a precision cut cutting these blunt lines and then having your guest go home and try to style it and now she's got this thick weight that looked good when you blew it dry but it doesn't look good when she does and then you're going to be having clients upset with you while they're at home. So same thing vertical section now I'm combing in because I'm combing that new hair into the guide let the hair fall out and then elevate as I tease cut and just slide my hand up and remove that weight. So somebody said I tend to lose my guide when doing finishing techniques honestly you are kind of working with a guide but at the same time I look at the hair and basically what I'm doing is I'm looking at the hair I'm trying to find where the bulky parts are and then I assess what do I want to do with that. So how do I remove that weight I'm not necessarily going in to find a guide what I'm doing is I'm pulling that hair and knowing that I need to lift it I can see that some of that shorter hair falls out and I can see where the bulk is and then come in here and just slightly remove there's not really so much a guideline my guideline is where the weight is and what do I and what I want to do with it and then I slide through here this is a half close of the scissor and just remove a little bit of that bulk as well. So it's not changing the haircut it's just making it a little bit have a little bit lighter feel to it. All right so we're grabbing some gloves so I want to go over the colors that I'm choosing what I want to do is create kind of a rooty feel so we're going to create that rooty base and then I'm going to do two tones through the ends one is a 6NA the other is going to be a 6SB these are all Joico colors Lumishine all demi colors anytime I'm taking something a little bit deeper I don't want to use permanent unless they need 100 grade coverage but it really brings out the cut and that's what I want to kind of show you guys today so anything I do color wise is just enhance whatever cut I've created we've got 5N with 1BS that's a blue silver black so I'm just we did a dash of the 1BS with a whole container of 5N that's just going to give me that smoky kind of deeper base and then the level six is I don't really want to change the lightness of the ends here I'm just trying to give a dimension into it I'm very excited to use these clips that Sam Villa left for me these are dry hair clips they have a silicone band in them so they just they don't leave creases in the hair which doesn't really matter so much for coloring but they hold the hair really nice as well so we're going to start off what I like to do is just take out a horseshoe section at the top I'm very precise pretty much when I cut hair not so precise when I color hair so bear with me on this we're just going to get messy and paint so what I'll do is I'll paint some of the base first really just around this horseshoe section and then once I get that horseshoe section on I'm really staying only about an inch away right now because I don't want to go too deep in there then I'm going to split at that division point and I'm going to paint back and forward just to separate that so that really instead of clipping everything away I'm painting it into different segments so now I've got that section right there and then I've got a section in the back here I'm going to do the same thing on the opposite side so like I said I'm accenting my cuts what I want is to show off the texture of a shag I want there to be two different tones that are kind of mixing and going throughout the haircut but I'm not really concerned with it being like perfectly applied because I'd rather just it be more kind of organic anyways so I painted the root on this piece so now I'm going to go through and I'm going to start off with a 6NA I'm going to paint that through the ends and then I'll take my next section I've got the level 5 my deepest root color I bring that down I'm going to paint that root right there and then I'm going to pull that section out and I'm going to paint it with another the 6SB to bring this down this is great for your clients that aren't looking for a big change like I think every client needs to have some sort of dimension to help their to show off the haircut so instead of doing just a regular base touch up do their base touch up but then use two different tones throughout to give it that movement so a 5N with a 1BS so really deepening the root area of the guest and then going through and using multi tones throughout the ends you could do fantasy color on the ends you can kind of do whatever you want so I put that at the base the 5N with 1BS and then I go 6NA through the ends and then I rotate going through with the 6SB and my wiping the color off on my gloves when I change sections nope that's kind of part of the whole organic thing so I'm I'm I'm not touching the level 5N with the 1BS that's not hitting my gloves but the two other tones are these are going to live so much so similar but at the same time they will have a little bit different tone to them so that's where I'm not like I'm not super concerned with them mixing together touching each other it's not that's not a big deal and that's part of that whole organic feel and also this is all horizontal so those of you guys that are watching this and kind of understand how horizontal diagonal or vertical placement changes things vertical is going to be the most separation within the tones and then you have diagonal which will be a soft blend of the tones and then horizontal which is the strongest blend because they're all falling on top of each other so this is going to be very blended what I love though is that I'm coloring this horizontally and the haircut lives as a round shape so the difference is if she weren't straight down it would be very blended but what she's going to wear it is as textured and probably more towards her face to show off that texture so then it's going to be actually diagonal because of how she's going to wear it so you have to take into consideration how she's going to style it as well it's just as important as the placement of the color so again guys just rotating and because these are deeper tones like greens and grays and blues and that's where it's going to kind of shift this brown hair color and for real I'm very my sectioning I don't even care if it's perfect because I mean obviously you got to color everything but I want it to kind of have an organic feel to it this is something I want you guys to understand too like I don't want these tones definitely don't want the levels to really be any different it's more natural to me if hair moves and has different tones to it then if it's just one solid tone so that's really the goal with this you're not going to see in the end result a big difference in the color like you're just going to see a root you're going to see a deeper root and you're going to see probably like a shiny earthy looking toned hair color but then when I style it I think you're going to see it pop and the haircut's just going to look so much cooler because it has movement to it so now I'm going to work in the top and the top I am going to do more vertically now if my color or my tones were my levels were way different I would not do vertical straps throughout the top because it would look stripy I saw a girl yesterday at a restaurant had that same thing hers was blonde and black not what we're going for but when you have tones and levels that are the same and you're really trying to make that stand out a little bit you kind of need to do these vertical straps because that's going to help show them off a little bit more instead of blending them all together all right last section here right in the fringe area now with the fringe I'm not going to paint the ends I'm actually going to color this the whole deep color I like kind of a nice deep fringe anyways and then with a shag it kind of gets textured and lays over that as well so I'm just going to I'm going to go all in with the darker tone it's probably hard to see and like I said these are the same level so they're not going to be that different just different tones going throughout the hair the blue from the sb that like silver color silver tone is going to help kind of neutralize some of those orangier things but then also we got the green in there so we're going to keep some of the gold so it's like I still want this to have a richness to it but I don't want it to be orange that's not the the plant all right so I'm going to go through blow dry flat wrapping and then as I kind of blow dry this around then I'll brush some down and just start smoothing and do a little bit of a lift leafing technique and just continue flat wrapping my goal is to not blow dry in a part and these colors work really well for taking like brown hair that usually has those like really orangy kind of deeper orangy tones and just taking that tone out I don't know how well you guys can start to see this but you just see all the different depth the lighter this like the deeper it's like some of the six na and just like comes through so it's not that it's so different but it looks like I did like a weave of all different tones throughout the hair but they all live on the same level and that's like just what can really make your clients hair stand out I think I use flat wrapping on all my clients most of the time yes because most of the time I'm preparing them to cut them because I do a lot of dry cutting I mean I do my base cutting wet and then I go in and you know detail it dry so no matter what even if I'm going to give them some volume I'll go through and do a flat wrap because flat wrapping doesn't necessarily not give you volume it just gets the hair kind of smooth to the head and does it without a part so it's ideal for situations where you're dry cutting and working through the hair okay so we're going to style it up with beach shake it's a joyco product it's like an explosion of texture comes out of this thing see here so even though these are not crazy different level you've got your depth at the bottom which is a level darker than the ends so it's a level five with a little bit of depth put into it and then you have your level six ends in two different tones so that's where you see depth and multiple tones kind of throughout it but it's not crazy it's not all over the place obviously you could do that if you wanted if you wanted to mix in some lightener with that or freehand paint some stuff so understand that just like haircutting coloring is so similar in a way of this technique isn't just saying hey guys go color two different browns at a level six and do a level five base like this is have fun with your tones pick it if your guest comes in she always gets a level five touch up and you want to give her something a little fresher you want to make her excited about her next visit then talk about the multiple tones the dimensional color that you can put in there talk about those things get her excited about next visit and then all of a sudden she'll be coming back in sooner to get that dimensional color that she's that you've got her all amped about so all these different tones throughout it hope you guys like it this shag haircut is super fun but that is you know the color technique and that is all