 What's up guys welcome to today's vlog so on the vlog what we're going to be focusing on is a bob haircut now this bob haircut I like because it's got a ton of layers a ton of texture we go in we do a lot of point cutting at the end and also we create these hard lines throughout the entire cut we create a nice hard fringe same thing in the back so I'm going to show you guys techniques on how to create those hard lines during the dry haircut so hope you guys like this video let me know in the comments below if you have any questions let's get started. Alright guys so I'm going to start off the cut by brushing back the mannequin or your guest hair and I'm using my Ergo diamond head brush this is a brand new brush that we have on freesaloneducation.com and the thing that I love about this why this is my new favorite brush is because I always love using a paddle brush because I love the tension I love how it detangles but the Ergo diamond head brush is a smaller version of a paddle brush so I use that it's great to get through the hair it's great for medium to shorter length hair so my sectioning is very simple for this cut I go straight down center all the way down center back to the nape then I go from mid crown down to behind the ear with a slight diagonal forward parting and then I go from the occipital bone down to behind the ear so basically creating three different pie shaped sections throughout the head and what this is going to do is just it keeps everything sectioned off and organized for me as I move forward in the cut this is going to be a very fundamental cut so thing I really love about it is that you're going to get a lot of basics out of this cut but then also we're going to do some advanced stuff at the end to help detail it and finalize it so now we're going to talk about tension there's no over direction here the tension is nice and light with my fingers but I'm pulling it straight out from the head and cutting it at basically a 90 degree angle now that might confuse some of you guys out there but we're taught in school that straight at this point right at the occipital bone that when we hold our fingers like that we're creating a 45 degree angle but in the reality the occipital bone tucks down into the nape so when it tucks down like that it actually forces my finger angle to be at 90 degrees so I get more of a layered effect at this point so that's why some people when they're going through and they're cutting the hair they see that they get that layered effect and then it stacks really heavy right after the occipital bone well we're gonna correct that in this cut also I'm pushing weight forward so I'm over directing everything to that very first parting that we did so you'll see in the overhead view everything's being over directed to this center so we're pushing almost like an a-line feel or triangular depends on how you learned it but we're pushing that weight right to behind the ear now the other thing that I want you guys to be aware of and something that made me nervous when I first started cutting hair was as I cut this you're gonna see kind of a fringier area a little bit of extra length right at the nape I think it's cool to go in and cut your weight out first and then draw that line in the dry cut so I'm not worried about getting that hard line on the base right away I want to get it in the dry cut so then I can determine what length I actually want when I go in to cut it another thing that I've shifted and we talk about this in multiple times in multiple different haircuts but if you just started following the channel I'm combing the hair differently so the on the left side my fingers are pointing up and I'm pulling the hair into my hand on the right side my fingers are pointing down and the reason for that is to stay consistent with your combing talk about it all the time combing is what makes you a great hair cutter it's not about cutting the hair off so you can see my fingers are pointing down and I'm scooping the hair into my hand towards the center of the head and I want to make sure I keep that consistent on both sides now the other thing is we're starting to build up weight now so we were cutting at 90 degrees from the occipital bone down to the nape but now that we're at the occipital bone up to the crown I keep that same finger angle and now I start to build up weight now I think what really separates great hair cutters from not so great hair cutters I guess I'm not not so great but hair cutters that just aren't fully understanding or thinking about what they're doing with the weight you want to make sure that there's a balance of the weight on the head shape so when I'm looking at this mannequin for instance I look at where do I want that weight to fall I want the weight to fall right above the occipital bone I wanted to start building up there that's going to give her the most flattering look for her head shape and that's really the key to a great haircut it's not about just being precise it's not about getting the angles right it's about where you're distributing weight in the head on the head not in the head okay so now we're going still straight down center back now you'll see my fingers pointing straight up and I'm cutting my line sticking with my guideline from the center so I grab a little bit of guide and then I move myself to the side still over directing everything to the center back the other thing you might notice is that I'm holding my scissor a little bit different the reason that I hold my scissor this way is it's just more comfortable than kinking my wrist to try to cut palm to palm so I shift I put my thumb in the opposite direction of the scissor and it just makes it more comfortable for me that doesn't mean that you should do that it just means that's what I like to do so if you would like to try it go ahead I think that it gives me more consistency and it also as I've been cutting hair for more and more years I like to keep my wrist as straight as possible when cutting these different haircuts so we're going through still over directing everything to the center now you got to think about why you're over directing everything to the center what's happening is we're pushing maximum amount of weight a ton of weight to behind the ear the reason I'm doing that is because later I'm going to go in and create a ton of texture and start cutting some layers in there but I want a lot of hair to play with the other thing that you're going to notice is when this hair starts to drop you may see a slight hole is what they teach you in beauty school that it's a hole it's not a hole because we're going to go through and cut the perimeter later what you're seeing is the difference is in the outer perimeter of the haircut some of the hair is not going to reach all the way down there so just stay consistent with the interior part of the cut focus on that where you want that weight to be and then your outer perimeter is just the decoration for the end of the cut so still working the same thing another thing to take notice of when I'm cutting above I'm shifting the head constantly a question came up in a class that we just did recently there was a hands-on class the question was if I shift my guess head what does that do to the haircut it does absolutely nothing to the haircut a lot of people talk about well if you shift your head down you're going to get a different look than if the head is pointed up the reason you get a different look is because when you shift the head it shifts your your elevation it changes the thoughts in your mind I right now have the head straight up and down because as I'm cutting that makes me the most comfortable then there's some cases at the very beginning where I tell her head forward because that makes it more comfortable for me to get the angle that I was looking for the more comfortable you are the more consistent you'll be is something that I say all the time within haircutting because you want to be comfortable because the more comfortable you are then you'll you'll have consistent lines you'll be able to find your guide you'll be able to find all that so staying nice and organized throughout the cut so you can see now that I've worked my way all the way up to the top of the crown if you went straight off the top of the head the apex part that had the highest point if I went straight up that would be 90 degrees right so that top point where the tip of my finger is is actually sitting at zero degrees which is a little bit heavier so that's gonna be my heaviest point that's the point that I want to hit right at the occipital bone to help kind of a scent accentuate the nice shape of the head you can see how it kind of bulks out right there and that's why and that's where I want it to be some people you might want to put that a little bit lower some people don't have that occipital bone area as prominent so what you'll do is you can build that weight line up a little bit and make the illusion of a nice occipital bone or a nice head shape you can see that weight pushing forward and again we're gonna go in and layer it so right now I'm creating a more fundamental haircut this is a cut that you probably learn in beauty school and then we're gonna go through and we're gonna detail and that's what's gonna change it I think the challenge with haircutting is that a lot of people learn these fundamentals they don't learn the tricks to do in the dry cut to make it their own so you see people walking around with these fundamental unfinished cuts so that's what I really want to focus on that at the very end so there you go lots of weight pushed to the front we're not gonna leave all that weight there but it's nice to push things to have hair to cut later so somebody said a long time ago I don't know who it was but they said you know it's not about the hair you cut off it's about the hair that you leave on what I take from that is it is about the hair that you leave on if I push weight to the front I need to know why I'm pushing it there and how much weight am I pushing right now like I said we're pushing a maximum amount of weight so now then I can go in at the end of the cut and layer it and have a lot of fun with it create a lot of texture so I'll have plenty of hair to work with I don't need to go in and take those layers out right now because sometimes it's more fun to do that in a dry cut because you can be a little more precise with how much texture you want to put in sometimes when you cut wet the hair bulks together kind of sticks together and then you're cutting more bulk out than you even want to and you get chunkier looking layers when you cut dry hair it spreads out it gets softer so that's one of the things I like about dry hair cutting is being able to go in there and just really customize and fine-tune the haircut so this is finishing up the precision point of the cut now I'm gonna go in with the Paul Mitchell mirror smooth high gloss primer thing I love about this product is it's definitely lightweight so when I'm putting in the hair I'm looking for that shine I'm not looking for much hold I just want the smoothness of the product so you're gonna see how shiny it gets right away I'm also using the ergo diamond paddle brush and I just work the product into the hair I'm using a flat wrapping technique which is basically molding the hair to the head shape and then I use the Paul Mitchell Express style hot off the press I love this product for this is definitely one of my all-time favorite heat protectant products because it goes on dry it's not a wet spray and then it has a nice little medium hold and so you get the hair nice and smooth but also get that protection it's also great those of you guys out there that maybe aren't hairdressers get us getting inspired by the video it's great for not only protection but also it's humidity resistant so in those hot summer days you can put it on there so now we're gonna go in I'm using my Mizutani type K scissor this is a five and a half inch scissor I like using a shorter scissor for all precision cuts I've used a scissor for this entire cut and I'm going in with the tip of the scissor to start cutting my hard line now when we talk about hard lines it's a nice strong line that you're creating in the back a lot of people try to create these lines by doing it in the wet cut but I love doing it in the dry cut because you can really fine-tune decide what you want that line to look like and get really creative with it then after I use the tip of my scissor I'll go in with the blade flat just to really harden the line to get it really strong and then I go back in with the tip of the scissor and then I comb the hair some more this is a process that I'll spend about ten minutes on going through and cutting and and defining that line you could even spend longer but I know in salon reality we can't do that but this is really the trick that I'll think a lot of people skimp on this because they either just don't have the time or didn't know that that's what people were doing like I didn't but now you know I block out enough time in my haircuts to make sure that I can put those final details in to get the look that I'm looking for and then now I'm going to go through and I'm doing point cutting technique just softening the edge this isn't so much right now about changing the shape at all I just hold the hair directly out and I look for bulky points and I go in vertically with the blade and soften that edge just skinny and up the look a little bit so we'll do that all the way through the head shape everything's coming straight out from the from where it lives so nothing is really being over directed at this point do the same thing on the opposite side you can see how deep I'm going in there I'm not going too far because I'm not really trying to create those layers yet I'm going to do that on the top but I'm just going in and taking the bulk out of the side remember we did over direct everything straight back so in doing that you're pushing so much weight to the front and you don't want to get that dog ear effect now I'm going through and I'm gonna cut the blunt bangs and the way I'm gonna do that is scoop it up hold it in my comb at a low elevation so I'm about maybe a half an inch from the forehead and I just go in and I cut my first line and then I just keep fine tuning it as I slowly drop the comb down I keep cutting and it just gives me a little soft feel when it finally drops down to the forehead so this is a technique that I learned a long time ago really love this technique for cutting a straight fringe works really well you just keep going through you hold it with your scissor put it into the comb and then just lightly use the tip of the scissor to go through and define the line so again you can see I'm using the tip of the scissor I don't think I mentioned but when you use the tip of the scissor it's great because it doesn't push the hair so a lot of people will go in and try to really cut with the full blade and especially when you don't have sharp scissors it pushes the hair and then you end up with a crooked line that you didn't want in the first place so you can see when I want to straighten that line out I use the tip of the scissor and that helps soften that line and get it exactly where I want it all right so we got a nice hard line now I'm going to go in and do really deep point cutting throughout the very top and that's going to give me that shattered effect in the layering so I really love how there's the hard lines in this cut but then it's just really textured so that's one of my favorite looks for the haircut I love seeing that precision feel but then a lot of shattered pieces around it so another thing I like to do is on this particular cut I want to go through and cut and connect those lines I didn't want it all falling forward so then I leave those disconnections to kind of fall over it which I really liked I mean obviously this this part becomes a little less salon friendly but it's fun and creative to do it so I keep that triangular feel it's still got a little bit of a forward feel to it but then disconnect it over the top this would be cool for curly hair I think as well having those disconnections really separates the shape of it and could give you a little more texture and take out some density so just really fun haircut hope you guys like the finished look I'm going to finish it up blow it dry I'm gonna throw a little bit more product in there as well a little more point cutting through it to finalize it out and then I throw on the mirror smooth high gloss primer from Paul Mitchell and I'll be wild ginger so throw that in gives it that shine a little bit of separation again not too much hold still a soft feel to the look but see the texture of peaceiness I really like it hope you guys like this cut I love doing it let me know in the comments below what you think thanks so much all right guys like always I hope you liked the video let me know in the comments below make sure you subscribe to the channel and if you get a chance I would really appreciate it you just share this video with your friends if you're on Facebook share it in a hairdresser group so that we can pass these videos along to as many hairdressers as possible thank you guys again for watching if you want to get any of the tools that you saw used on this video go to free salon education calm and you can shop our online store thank you guys for watching we'll see you soon