 Hello, YouTube lock fans. This is Alex again. In my previous video, I demonstrated this Yale 5,000 series security or high security lock. And I mentioned that I, in my still amateurish picking abilities, have not yet been able to pick it with all the security features enabled. But I did want to take one apart so I could see how it worked. My first attempt involved removing the, let's zoom for you, removing the, as you can see, how I butchered the little brass strip at the top using a screwdriver and vice grips and so forth. I decided that wasn't really very nice to do to the lock. And I had a little bit of trouble getting that to stay back in there. And so then I remembered that I had seen these things called shims on some of the locksmithing websites. And let's ask it to auto-focus, there we go. And so I figured I'd make one. So what I did was I took a piece of 030 feeler gauge, and this is one, and I made a shim out of it. And here's a lock that is shimmed. I think it's still shimmed. And yes, it is. And so what has happened is that I have worked this, let's bring this in close for you. I have worked this little feeler gauge in along the shear line, okay, all the way through to the, across all six pins. And then that obviously frees the cylinder to move around. And if I wanted to, I could take this out. I'm not going to because all the bits will fall over the floor. I'll have to curse and do another take and I don't want to, okay. So I'm gonna see if I can demonstrate this on film. I've done it a bunch of times, but every time I have the camera on, I fuck it up. So we'll give it a go though. So let's see what this little guy looks like. You can hear the pins resetting. So what you do is you take your little piece of feeler gauge, probably a little longer than that one, and you cut it into sort of a penis shape, okay. And you're going for a width that is wide enough to bridge the pins, but not so wide that you take up so much room between the plug and the body of the lock that you can't get it in there. So you're taking advantage of the little tolerances in there that allows you to get this in. So you kind of get it started. Make a little curve, try to avoid any sharp edges because they'll tend to break, okay. Make a little curve at the end. And this one has actually, I've done it used about 10 times and it's held up so far. So it's pretty good. You can also buy these. Anyhow, so what you do is you insert it into the lock. As far as you can along this top bit here, okay. And you'll feel the first pin that you run into the first driver that's down in there. And then I use this little gizmo, which I made for, let me just make sure I'm still in focus, yeah. Which I made for holding the top pins in on Euro locks. But turn out to be really good for this because I can kind of, it's easier to manipulate with one hand without putting the thing in a vise. So we just kind of work this in to the pins all the way through to the back, okay. And there we are. You can see it there on the back pin or number six pin. And what we're gonna do is sort of let off tension on that and there it is. As the pins cross the shear line, the little shim is able to penetrate between them with any luck and there it goes. That's number five, I believe. Is able to penetrate between them and block them from moving back down into the plug. And so what we do is we sort of work this all the way in. I'm not gonna bore you with doing it over and over again. You can also use a pick of some kind. This is an open diamond that I got from somewhere. This is actually a pretty good pick set, pretty cheap. So you could pick these individually if you had the thing in a vise or whatever. I've also found that the long end of a tension wrench, which looks substantially like that thing there, well works as well. This gives me a little better leverage, but you can do whatever you want. And you can see that I'm an amazing brazier depending on your pronunciation, making this little thing. Anyhow, so you just kind of work that all the way through, get it to the front, pop the plug out. Obviously on any well-constructed lock, this will only work from the rear of the lock. And we're taking advantage of the fact that we can access this little space here. On really shitty locks, you can sometimes do it from the front because the tolerances are so bad that you can get the shim in there and pop the plug out, or not even pop the plug out, but you can just rotate it then once you have it shimmed. So it may be a bypass that some of you can use in your work, or if you get locked out of your house or whatever. Again, this is feeler gauge. You can get this from like MSC Industrial or McMaster Car, or if you've got a machine shop or something like that, or a machine shop supply place nearby, they usually will carry this stuff in all sorts of thicknesses. I have tried using aluminum can, bits of aluminum can, which the ones that I had were measured 0.05 inches, 5,000s, and were just a bit too thick. They work decently for padlocks, but not so well for this. Other beer cans and stuff may be better. But this stuff is pretty cheap, and you can get it in different, you can get it in like a one inch width long strips for about a dollar or two online. And good for all sorts of things. So obviously, only use this for legal purposes. Don't break in people's houses or steal their lock cylinders or whatever, their plugs, unless they're good friends and you just wanna mess with them. But anyhow, hopefully that helps somebody and you can try this out yourself. But thanks for watching. Give me a plus one if you like the video and check out uklocksport.co.uk for many other much more competent lock boffins and like and great videos and information. So thanks everybody out there and talk to you soon. Bye bye.