 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTech Tools. Quality tools, essential support. All right, we're back to another one. Yep, it's a Generac Honeywell. So it says on the front, but it's a Generac. It's for an overspeed. So we just had one. It happened on the 23rd. Today is the 25th. He reset it. It ran for a while. We six minutes and it did it again. So that's under the alarm log. Under the alarm log, I mean, that's pretty much about all there is. Over speeds, under voltages, low oil pressure, and that's about it. It's going to run log, the most part. Looks like it's been losing power here and there, but it's been running. See where we're at. Current time, 1.13. That's off. We can fix that real quick. Don't need to show you how to set the clock. It's pretty brain-did. Saturday at 12 o'clock for exercise, reset maintenance. That's about it for that stuff. We're going to go ahead and reset the maintenance because it usually ends up creating an issue with telling them there's something wrong. But we'll go ahead and kind of check it over like the maintenance would be in done. Enter, plus, yes, enter. OK, let's go to debug. Inputs, we have 236. I have to pull up my book to find out what the digital codes are there. I don't have them memorized. Let's see what it does. That's slow crank. Keep out on a hard time. I'm propping gas here. Last I checked, it should have a vibration adapter in there. Had to bring that tank and a heartbeat. It tried fighting me. Might have a stepper motor going out on it. Let's take a peek-a-poo down here, see if it's still plugged in correctly. We might have a motor out. Looks like it's all still plugged in. I need to loosen up some of the wires and check the resistance on them, see if that stepper motor's any good. Motor feels free. It just seems like maybe it's not responding like it should. Looks like somebody spilled a little bit of oil down there. Always hate when people do that. I didn't like that battery either. It acted like it was a slow cranker. So I think we're going to isolate that and check the battery too, loosen that up. I'm a big proponent for new batteries every four years. Anyway, you know it's going to run. Usually it don't have as many problems. Let's get the checker on that. Now I do know this has nothing to do with the frequency of the engine speed being off. But I believe in looking at it as a whole. So let's go in here, standard, accurate test, cold cranking amps. This says it's 560. Pop out up a touch. There we go. Bet she comes in cruddy. Suggested replaced, not good. Voltage looks high because it just came off the charger. The internal resistance there is 500 mega ohm, milli ohm, mega ohm, yeah, mega ohm, yeah. Cold cranking came in at 181. Yeah, that battery's junk. That's not good. I guarantee you if we put a true load test on there, she'll dive. We'll do a double check that way. So we're right on the very top there, nice and tight. We got pretty good pinch on the negative there. Let's watch that meter there. And she dropped down to 10. There's about nine. Let off of it, do it again. Yeah, whoa, that really dropped down bad. Make sure you got a really good connection. Don't wanna hold it more than 10 seconds. Let's watch it one more time. And yeah, she's dropping to 10. Usually bounces up real quick. Yep, it's not even recovering normal. So yeah, the battery's gone to pot. So we're gonna need to get that replaced. Let's check the resistance of that little motor. I grabbed my Fluke 87. Some people didn't understand what I was saying when I said that my Fluke, I mean, hello, if I didn't think my meter was good, I wouldn't have known it. The 902, nothing wrong with it, just isn't as accurate. The resistance doesn't go very high, things like that. And the probes I've got on it sometimes aren't real great for getting into tight spots. Plus this one's got a lot of other attachments. So just, I kind of recommend a more of a bench style or a square style like this. They usually have more ranges and things like that on it. So let's get in here and see if our resistances are pretty much the same. I'm gonna have to pull it up off my phone because I don't remember if black was our common. I know they should all be the same resistance. I don't work on these every day, but lately I've been doing a lot of them. I used to work on them a lot, where as that before. So, you know, if you do it every day and that's all you do, then God bless you. I, on the other hand, work on everything under the sun. So I am not as good at these as somebody does it every day. That's just a given. But I'm proficient. It's about as, as least as you're gonna get that. Okay, we'll see what we get here. All right, our resistances, red is your common. Going to orange, yellow, black and brown should be 10 to 11 ohms. All right, so checking out my meter zeroed out. We have 0.2 ohms. Let's go. There we go. Red to the first one, 12.4 ohms. Going to the next one, 12.4 ohms. Going to the next one, 12.4. Going into the next one, 12.5. I'm gonna say the motor's probably fine. Let's go ahead and put this back together and start it up and we're gonna watch it and see if it goes with sweeping motion back and forth. Okay, so we've got that back on there. We got the battery hooked up to the meter with 13.1. Let's watch and see what happens when we turn this thing to manual. First of all, we've got to put it to off because we got that code, hit enter. That clears it. Now let's watch and see what happens when we hit the go button. Pull it in. Let's go on back and forth. It's almost like it's not paying attention. Like the controller might be a little wacko. Yeah, it feels like the gears are working. I don't feel no binding or anything like that. It goes pretty normal. I should take a look at the soil. Make sure it's okay. Should have done that first thing and usually I do if you watch my other videos. It's nice. People don't realize these are air cooled and they eat up oil. You can see the oil down there. I don't know if that's from spilling it. I mean, you can see that it's on the freaking hands. And you never know if it's spilt or if it's actually leaking. It's kind of difficult sometimes. None of these ever get any real usage. Yeah, that's pretty much out of oil. So when we go to get the battery, we need to get some oil too while we're at it. Wouldn't be a bad idea to just change the whole thing. Let's go talk to the homeowner and tell them what we got going on. All right, so you said get it. Let's get it. All right, it looks a little bit better now. We picked up two quarts. Only needed about just a little over half a quart. So we're gonna leave that and the extra one here for the customer. A lot of people don't realize that these things are air cooled so they use oil up. If it's liquid cooled, it wouldn't use as much oil. But we're gonna clean up this mess. He said this happened after a PM or somebody left a cover off or something crazy. So we're gonna clean up this mess and at least tell if it's something new or old or what. Probably ain't gonna be able to tell today, but at least we're making an attempt to make it right. Yeah, this thing doesn't feel like it's been ran a whole lot. Chances are, even though it's got 140 hours, this thing's probably had the oil change three times. It's probably not had any real hours on it at all. That's here nor there. So let's get this battery in here. We can do a quick check on it too while we're at it. All right, on the 510 cold cranking, which is just a touch under what it's technically rated at came in right at 511. And so the internal resistance, 5.4 milliamp. Got the battery hooked back up. Everything's cleaned up down there. Caps and stuff are all on tight. Let's run this thing, see what we get. We'll get this set up so we can check the frequency and stuff with it while it's running. It's a little faster. Our resistance is within one ohm and they're all equal. So I'm gonna say it's something in the wiring for that part. The only thing left is the module. There just ain't a whole lot you can do with it there. So I'm gonna double check with the factory, but that's where it's leaning towards with me unless we got a choke or something sticking here, which don't look like it is. Watch out and see what it does. I had somebody message down in the comments of another video and says I'm an idiot because they don't have chokes on gas, you know, natural gas and propane. Why do you go against the diesel? Well, right there, my friend is a choke. You're choking it, no fuel, no air, so you're choking it, choke, choke, choke. Yeah, I mean, unless that servo is just, I mean, it's not even trying to adjust, it's just staying there. All right, so what I found out is when we unhook the filter, the frequency goes normal. I ran it with one cylinder on the front, one on the back. I checked my gap in here, see what kind of spark I got every bit of 10,000, the front was getting 15,000, the rear barely could get maybe 12,000. So I've got a pretty strong spark. I'm gonna pull these spark plugs out and look at them real quick. Just really wacko that it decides to work like that. I did check all down in here to see if there's any air leakages. I checked the gas pressure, we're at 12 inches, it ran steady at that, but it just kept, still when it was all back together, it was acting dumb and wanting to do 65, 67 hertz. One time it even went up to 70, but with it like this, it runs fine, which is totally screwballed. We're gonna ink those plugs out. All right, so good old engine issues as usual. Get some oil on there on that one. Now it looks like crap, unbelievable. You've already got oil back here and stuff. I wonder, are we leaking somewhere else or did we really blow it off? Let's check our compression, see what we got here. Let's go ahead and kill the fuel. Yep, let's see what we got here. 150 pounds, that sucks. Usually it's 190 or better, I thought, but I could be wrong, maybe it's 145. Let's check our front here. It's over 30 pounds differential. Barely hit 150 on the one, so we've got another one with our ears all jacked. So we're gonna go ahead and check the valves here, see how they are. This happens way too often to not be a problem. 100 and some odd hours. Pop it into a valve, check on it, see what we got. Everybody talks about, sit the valves, sit the valves, sit the valves. Half the time it's never the valves. So we'll, we'll do a pressurization of it and we'll find out it's leaking through the rings or what the hell's going on with it. Chance the arts, probably the freaking rings. It's happened more than once. Our valve clearance there should be .002 to .004. So here is four, there is three. I've made some adjustments here to it. Four kind of hits, three. I can slide it right through there. Same side with this one here. Well, could earlier. .03 slides right through there. Same thing here, slides through. Here's .04. And it goes right through no problem, which is a little too much. That one just hits. So this one here, I'm gonna cheat. You're not supposed to do it like this. Kind of give it a little wiggle. Four hits. So .03 goes through no problem. All right, let's do it and check our compression on that cylinder and see how it is. I guarantee it probably won't make a damn bit of difference. This is the reason why I don't screw with it. So we went top dead center there. That's how we got it. Down, up, down, up, boom, compression stroke up. Okay, there's that. There we go. All right, fuels off. Let's go ahead and crank it over. Hopefully everything don't fall. Can leave the cover off so we can play with it some more, but here we go. Ready? Still 150. That's the reason why I don't screw around with valve adjustments, because usually don't do you no good. So anyhow, I think what we got here is we're gonna have a ring issue here. I've done this before and I think the last one was bad on the back too. So we can go ahead and do a blow down test on it and see what we get and we can see where it's leaking at. Front rear, top bottom. I haven't tried this setup with this new regulator I've got here. It may not work right with it, but with a traditional regulator it has worked in the past. What I usually do is we've got this one here. Unfortunately, like you say, you can't just set it wherever you want it at. Okay. Yeah, this should work out. So we crank it up. Sometimes they tell you to go 90, but the guy that did our class told us to go 100. So then you wanna set your, go to set there. So yeah, this may not work very good. You wanna just zero out our gauge here. Yeah, this regulator may not work very good. All right, let's go ahead and hook it up and see what we get. There we go. Oh, wow. Another junk set of rings, or the valve is one of the other, but yeah, it's either way it's nothing I'm gonna fix. We don't tear engines apart. So they can either buy a new engine or have a small engine mechanic redo it. I'm an HVAC and refrigeration guy, not a small engine guy. I can work on them, but that's not what I specialize in and you start getting into all these other different things. That's when you become not good at it. So either way, like I said, worked better the last time, but like I said, it's, see if that can happen. That's when you ain't perfectly dead center and then it'll do that, but I should have went slower, but either way it was leaking pretty bad. It shouldn't have done that. We'll do it one more time here, make sure we're top dead center. Yeah, I think we're in there. Now some guys, they can get in there with a wrench. There's in front piece there. You gotta take off that screen on the front. Maybe that would be easier. I've always just done it from here, there. That right there is about up, down, up, down. So you gotta be right perfectly in the middle there. I usually push down really hard on it to try to know that I'm there. You can tear it apart and replace whatever, but like I said, that's just not what we do. All right, I put the valve cover gasket back on see if that helps distinguish it's coming from the intake exhaust or through the piston rings. That is a little easier to tell. Yeah, I can hear it through the intake. Don't hear it down there. I can check it, not, like I said, can hear it through there. I don't hear it over here too much. Mainly hear it up there. Yeah, although, you know, they tell you in the book to go to 90 and although I'm not holding 90, it's still, I got some problems there. I don't carry an air compressor in my truck. It's, once again, I'm not an auto mechanic. Just the problem is, electricians don't wanna learn this thing cause they're not a mechanic either. And since we're very technical minded, the HVAC guys usually do it. Piss you off or whatever, it's just the way it is. They surround here. So, there you go. Either ways, you're gonna have to call a small engine mechanic. But there ain't a whole lot I can do with it. We've got the gapping on the spark plugs. It was close, 30,000 is what they went on that. We are perfectly at 3.003,000 on the valves there. I didn't bother with the front because the rear's failing. Why waste my time with the front? You know, it's trial elimination. Fact is, it shouldn't be making any noise at all. So, it escapes through the breather, check piston rings. Escapes through the carburetor, check intake. Take intake valve. Well, either way, there ain't a whole lot I can do with it. So, intake valves. That requires you to yank the top of the engine off and do whatever else to it. Right, so, notice this screw right there was loose. So, we're gonna put some Loctite on it and try to adjust it again. It actually came in the area that it needed to. So, we're gonna do that, but it still don't make it right, but it actually works. It's working perfect now. So, I adjusted that up and gave it a little more room there so it can go slower or faster. It kind of has room, but that servo was as far forward as it could go. And like I said, I could see that wiggling. So, we got some Loctite on that and I left a little room and it's, I can push it forward, I can pull it back and it's holding right in there at 60 Hertz area, which is what it's supposed to do. I mean, at least I was able to show you firsthand that we got some leakage on the intake valve, but if it's running, I mean, the compression ain't right. You can see there's a difference in the spark plug. There's obviously something not quite right with the engine, but that comes down to a small engine repair, unfortunately, but right now it's running. So, I mean, you know, depending on what you wanna do at that point, I mean, at least, well, at least maybe they can tell me what it is. All right, we're gonna put this back on auto. We're going to pull the fuse on this and make sure it transfers. It should start counting down. Like I said, the biggest thing here was the, there was no room for that servo to go forward. We kept the, this engine's got issues. The engine's got issues. There's much more I can do about that. That is not very big wire. So, 243, pulling right in there, 59 Hertz, 59.9. Yeah, like I said, we got at least run and pouring, but that's still don't fix the problem with the engine. Does not fix the problem with the engine. Like I said, I'm not an engine guy. They don't cover it in glass and it's just not my tea. I don't give a, I don't do much with that. So, go ahead and make sure this transfers back. That cover there, it's kind of has some issues. Just transferred back, there you go. Well, once it just irritates you, that screw though, it just vibrated down and stopped it from going as hard, slow as it needed to go. That was, that was the big problem, but we caught a lot of other issues here. So it was a lot of hidden things. Well, guys, enjoy the video. If you want some more like it, make sure you subscribe. Give it a thumbs up and we'll catch you on the next one. Later.