 Authenticity is simultaneously not important at all. Because if the opposite of authenticity, the drive to take flavors and techniques and the soul of traditional cooking and make them thoroughly and unequivocally your own has brought us the kogitako, the splendid mission Chinese food we had for lunch and momofuku's bosan, which is better than the traditional Korean version to the extent that a slow roasted chili rub pork shoulder is better than a slab of plain boiled pork belly.