 anyone hear me hello all right we're good on the mic everything broke for some reason music's banger i'm just gonna pick this quick while people roll in boom easy let's see is the youtube one up youtube's up youtube the latest hell though pop this into discord and then we're good to go all right let's do it yeah one we got two two we got three nope nope all right we're good to go we gotta set this shit up nice pincher huh let's do it like this all right good enough for me closer is some audio good let me put some random song for now this is shit all right boys it's time to unbox this thing i don't want to leak leak address over here we set up the ally white i have no clue it's literally one side of the box to the other i don't know how ready for the wobbly present prince they're not going on that table this table is just to take shit apart the last printer came in two pieces it was literally just both the z-axis to the base and that's it this one has four different it's like it's set up like a table the other one is just two bars this one's four so i i have no clue how it's gonna make me set it up let's see if we can get rid of this i really want to get all the dust particles on it but i don't even know where to start to be honest with you probably should search up a video on how to do this it's just so much foam it doesn't like that this looks like it can come out we got some tools some zip ties some bolts nuts washers looks like an extruder tube we got a typical arduino usb cable we got a micro sd into sd into a usb some cable clips power cable and a scraper that actually looks really nice way higher quality than anything else i've got on my bed read the paper there's no paper the one here i got to get under the tape oh it's not even taped guidebook this music is fitting oh you know what's cool this printer lets you install a bl touch this printer lets you install bl touch which is like a it's a how do i explain this it's a touch sensor that sits on the extruder head right so when you're printing the head's moving around so it's a it's a touch sensor that sits on it and has a little tiny motor in it that lets it extend out and pull back in so that you can automate process of leveling the bed so you can make the sensor go a bit lower than the actual metal part off the extruder and it'll roll around the table and like you can have it set up as many spots as you want let's say a hundred different spots and read the height levels at those spots and then adjust the the code the gcode files which is what is being printed which is really cool so it lets you it lets you kind of get like a 3d image of your table so if it warps or whatever you can still keep relatively flat prints which is an issue i always have on the other one so this one automates it with that sensor i have one of those for that printer but you have to put it on you have to plug it in and you have to run a specific file to go and test spots where on this one it's automated into the process of printing you don't have to take the sensor on and off it just does it for you really cool it's called BL touch after sales service card okay this we keep on the side it's the score extruders if i touch fancy yeah it is i'm excited for that because the one they give you on the other printers are they don't work they just flat out don't work oh this one even comes with pliers i love when they come with pliers ones i have a garbage and i don't feel like spending a bunch of money with 3d printing just like high high precision i guess would be the term they're like tweezers but with massive handles so that you can put get four aluminum profiles bolts and whatever wait what that's for the bottom there's no way he wants me to build it from scratch looks like it's kind of built oh it's not built at all that's the fucking table in my hands right now yeah we're gonna need more space it would come somewhat pre-built but no this is going it's it's just giving us levels we just have to connect them so this is our this is a big role of a test filament to be honest the other ones give you like one loop and a couple colors it's cool being able to compare the experience of the first printer and the second one and seeing what they why this company is just so much better just look at the quality i mean they have these like table protectors and everything i don't know if you can hear it crackles a lot it's pretty cool it's got a massive extrusion cable definitely higher quality than what i've seen extruder looks good oh shit it works can you guys see this on the camera wait let's swap it to the other side on this camera at the top here it has linear guide rails or so on most printers they take these aluminum extrusions and they have little wheels they go along with them but the wheels get worn out real quick and then either you have to change them or readjust them constantly it's really hard to have a tension on them because they'll they'll just wear faster on this they have guide rails so they have these ball bearing filled tubes and they just sit on these rails in this case it's tubes it's not like it's not flat rails it's tube rails but it's the same idea and it just rolls with with um with grease and and ball bearings up and down that's really cool that's probably how they keep it so steady shit so we gotta look at this it's gonna take a while it's gonna be fuck even the motors are wired up we gotta make some space here then i will make some more space back here so i guess first step would be to just take everything out so this is our x axis this is our sorry that's our y our y and x this is our plate for z it's not even connected this is literally in the way this one works is instead of the z axis being the still part and the extruder head going up and down and doing all the axes it's put the z axis on the plate so the plate will move up and down so it starts with the plate at the top and as it prints the plate goes down what's nice about this is the plate is always going to vibrate in general because you already have this the x axis and the y on it so being able to put it on rails you lock it in a lot more than the way it's done over here because here you could you could just vibrate it with your finger like that but here it's going to be on literal rails there it's on a gear with a less uh with rubber um belts rubber belts are going to stretch and all that being able to put this on a on a screwdriver and on rails it's going to make a big difference and what's crazy is this i got this for cheaper than that one that one's just a shit company the size of this of the power supply all the stuff inside of it two three times the size of the other one how do i take this out look at the size of this thing it's like how do you use this okay it's not that heavy but damn all the cables are just dangling loose weird so now that the whole plane moves instead of the head the work is subject to forces on three dimensions yes but i still think this is way more efficient than doing it the other way i think being able to move the z-axis is a lot more efficient i want to use the word efficient moving the extruder up and down because okay so the problem with moving the extruder up and down a lot of the times is you need two points of screw drives with two servo motors or stepper motors right and it just happens even on this one even after adjusting and doing all the things it happens that the extruder goes left to right up and down and i don't know what the term is but what ends up happening is what what has ended up happening for me is those little vibrations and differences when the screwdriver goes a little more on one side or a little more on the other it's it stacks over time and on the really high and tall prints by the time it gets to the top it's either overextruding or it's the print is at a certain height and the extruder is trying to go below that height because it's been stacking so long so this tiny little increments once it's stacked enough the extruder just breaks itself through the printer i think being able to put the z-axis on a motor and being able to control it better is gonna help but i don't know if i make any sense but i'll be able to show more let's use this as our collection bin or whatever start with the base plate this thing just feels solid what i might end up doing because it's going to be insanely tight on space i might take this base plate and modify it so that it doesn't so that it goes straight onto the platform i have here and then i'm going to screw the base plate into my enclosure so the enclosure will just sink and just literally i'm i'm a big guy and there's zero vibrations i'm putting all my weight right now really will not vibrate so being able to to take the printer and screw it into the enclosure will be pretty nice it has these little like rubber grommets at the bottom that i could probably get rid of we'll see see what the smart decision is some people take concrete blocks place them on their work desk sorry it's so they have a work desk that's obviously as still as they can get it to be and they put thick carpet and then they put a concrete block and the printer goes on top of the concrete block that's like apparently the the secret sauce you know how to get it as still as possible but being able to bolt it into something seems pretty good to do i could probably show the phone camera or whatever it's just we have our base plate post step one he wants us to take these extrusion bars and bolt them into our uh base plate oh man they're like they're tight sealed between no i really don't want to cut they're like black coated so if i cut it it's just gonna show a nice big cut little tool here i was talking i don't know if you're still here shaman but i was talking to someone who modified 3d printers like the one i have so the one that doesn't work he asked him if he can like consult me on how to do certain things like like really custom where like you're finding like some random dude on github that posted his code on on how to connect like a the printer turned our pie and they write their own like slicer software and all that i was like that could be a cool project to do to try and like repurpose a broken printer and turn it into an absolute monster so i found someone who does that stuff and he was like he was trying to explain to me what and how they do it and how they get all these complicated like solutions went right over my head like the difference between so these printers these printers both have normal they work in a very like like the typical way they have a hotend and then separated they have an extruder so the extruder takes the plastic and pushes it into the hotend but it does it over a long plastic tube so there's also direct drive printers where the extruder and the hotend are connected together they're stacked one on top of the other which means the motor pushes the filament directly into the hotend direct drive is a lot better than normal drive but it's a lot more complicated to control because you're having a lot more weight on the on the axis right here here's the hotend the top here and imagine if you put more weight on it it's going to have to control it's going to stop more every time it gets to a certain point it kind of fucks up the process i guess makes it a little bit more complicated but it allows it has like its benefits and cons it allows you to print ridiculously soft filaments that if you tried to push them through a normal tube they would just fail but being able to push them directly into the hotend it's a it's a big benefit for a lot of people you can print like super high temperature like carbon fiber filaments and stuff which is pretty cool i think that they're like 300 400 degrees celsius coming out of the hotend but you can make like composite prints that take a lot of damage sorry not take a lot of damage but they're structurally strong starting with eight eight m five it's so nice and labeled too in English and in Japanese for eight you gotta take these under which side the one at the top has a hole like flying machine parts this thing's gonna be huge it has a print size of the same as the other one like 350 on both 350 millimeters on the x and y and i think 400 on the z which good luck honestly if you can get something to print well at those dimensions i think the largest thing i printed was probably like 200 by 200 cubed millimeters so if you get something that's four almost 400 cubed it's gonna be wild it still will take like a week to print but it's gonna be nuts it's interesting i think also what i'm gonna do is i'm gonna drop this printer down under into the storage space in the bottom and then i'm gonna cut the new door out of uh out of plexi and then we'll have the bottom enclosure and the top enclosure share airspace which it gets pretty hot in there already with the top printer in there just now 25 degrees Celsius and room temperature it's like 20 and once you turn on the printer you can get it like 30 35 just more than enough for printing abs and all that i'm excited we're finally stacking finally stacking stats here you know started with no printer just hot glue and cardboard now we're at one printer we're two now we're three here's the thing shama maybe you can give me some insight on this should i be tightening hard or going until i can like finger tighten and then doing like one turn or whatever or does it not matter as long as i'm consistent all the way around that's what i'm not sure i don't want vibrations but i don't want to over see what it says it's aluminum if i over tighten aluminum we'll just over time break and there's no torque spec like you would get when you're working on car parts double the protection rate of rock lobster prints yet dude triple now after fixing that shitty as any cubic resin printer it's still got there's a print in there that i did yesterday i printed a cube on the on it's a cube but i printed it by the point of the cube so that it would be super complicated for the printer to figure it out and it did all right still still a way to break it working the resin printers need a lot of calibration and then every time you want to work on it you got to ventilate the room you got to wear a mask torque requirements go honestly i'm just going to go to my gut feeling i'm just going to go till it's comfortably tight i'm not going to over tighten it with steel i probably wouldn't care i also really don't like how like there's no there's nothing sandwiching between the extruders just metal on metal so we have to assume that they're straight cuts because it's not it's going to be like at the end of the day it doesn't matter too much because we're gonna have to calibrate the printer and the z axis and all that but we have vl touch so if you think the fasteners will come loose from operation i guess you can use some threadlocking compound you're right but i'm not going to lock anything until i know this printer works fine but you are extremely right i was just thinking about that as well because i have some i have red but i don't have blue i don't really want to use red because if it's uh something's wrong i'm fucked red is going to be a bitch to remove that's why honestly that's why i'm doing this on stream i don't i don't know if anyone will enjoy me putting stuff together but i think putting it on stream is an easy way to um report or document if something's fucked up because then i should be like yeah i did this in front of people and they all got to see your printer is faulty i actually have it all in proof you know whereas the last one it was just them telling me no i want to put this on its side i feel like i'm just slamming it this is actually really interesting the the power supply and all the electronics are in an enclosure fan enclosure but not only that it's also connected to act as a support it's bolted in in the middle and multiple like it looks almost overkill but that's definitely to try and keep it as stable as possible that's pretty cool i have not seen that happen yet because mine is just bolted to the side there's no structural like or no no functional benefit it's just more weight on the frame instead of here i guess probably overtake me i posted yesterday's video on a couple reddit threads and they seem to really like it i was expecting a lot of hate because the last one got a lot of hate it's weird if you post a video on reddit even if it's self promotion but if you post a video on reddit and it's not edited that well or it's clearly like someone who's very new they seem to give that person a lot more positive reactions but when you post something on reddit that's edited and filmed a little bit more i don't know if the word's professional but a little more high quality they seem to be a little harsher it's almost like oh you're just here for self emotion it's just weird it's not i just i mean these printers aren't free you know i gotta pay for them so i gotta post some youtube videos and some reddit threads and monetize my shit i'm gonna do it so i can buy more you know what i mean we did it boy what's next we're only on part two out of like eight now we take the rest of the m5 25 and we use them to bolt in our x and y boom which way does it in struder ben is looking at the front like this oh god that's gonna fall isn't it oh god just carefully maybe we could just loosely put in some it gives me some room for adjustability here which is nice okay that's in oh dude this is even it's even being tightened more than the last friendship i can see where they're coming from part of the idea of calvating community which promotes you on reddit which is you do it yourself yeah but these communities are like hey share your projects and everyone shares it through their youtube channels i just happen to be someone who's doing that but also i don't know maybe farther down the probably i don't i get what you're saying if you're going to a reddit thread that's meant for help it's like a health channel and you're posting yourself promoted videos with no description or whatever yeah that's understandable but if you if you make a reddit thread for people to share stuff like the ones i posted yesterday were sharing reddits and they and they got a bunch of love and but last time i posted in the ones where you're supposed to go share your content they got really frustrated so it's like i get what you're saying it's like when we had people in the discord who would come and just promote their discord or something let's do it in general i don't really care i'm still gonna do it it's really really difficult to have to do a bunch of things that oh my god i installed it the wrong way the thing i didn't tighten anything i 10000 installed it the wrong way it said the front is where the screen is and i installed it on the opposite side so what i'm gonna do is we have the printer oh you know what's going to be a bitch i just realized the extruder is on the back side of the printer which means every time i'm gonna load filament i'm gonna have to be doing it in the back of the printer which is going to be the back of the enclosure so i'm gonna just stick my body even further down in there extruder fan should be extruder fan should be pointing towards me and the and sorry the hot end should be pointing at me and then the extruder should be on the back side i think we're good to go this looks badass do you know those um thermal sensors you know the ones that use on like military equipment there's one that i have that's like it's an eight by eight so it's only eight it's only uh 64 pixels but i thought it'd be cool to try and like set it up on like a little toy gun or maybe on a drone or something and then being and then like fly the drone around and find thermal things at night but i think 64 pixels is just not enough for that kind of stuff i don't know what do you think because i looked at the ones that like have more resolution there's one that has like 160 times 160 resolution but it costs like a couple hundred bucks so too much and then if you want to go to the ones that the military can use that are in like 1080p 2k 4k whatever those goes like 10 20 30 000 so i don't really know what's a good option i thought it'd be really cool to do something that i put thermal sensor on a drone and then fly it around maybe maybe Ukraine wants some drills you can do them can you change the orientation so you have the display facing the door yes i probably can actually but i don't mind because the thing is the cable going to the extruder doesn't matter it doesn't matter where it's sorry the filament going into the extruder it doesn't matter where it's coming from really it doesn't like it shouldn't matter is what i'm trying to say once it's in the extruder then it matters because that's where the tension is between the extruder head so i can always 3d print or get another plastic tube and move it down here and then put it on the side that's not going to be a big deal i just meant if i need to do some modifications on the extruder i'll most likely have to take the printer out and put it back in but i don't now looking at it it's not going to be that difficult i was expecting a larger printer this is not that bad because they sell a smaller version of this and i was like no i need the big one it's not that bad i thought i was gonna have to take apart my whole enclosure but this will slide right in be able to modify it be able to actually print rock stuff you know what i mean okay we got one on each side now we need to go in one for the top it does not like this why is it being so stubborn like smooth as hell it even has the belts going it has one belt here one belt here which is interesting because if one slips it might be a little crooked but it shouldn't but i've helped but i've had belt slipping issues on the other printer that's the worst because your print will just skip a couple layers in any direction in any axis and then it'll keep printing and when you come you'll suddenly have like a layer shift in your print like i was printing um i was printing ahead of like a miniature or whatever when i came the nose was behind the mouth the whole head was just shifted over for the top of the head may have been the rock i don't know what you could do with an atime mate that's what i'm saying it would have to be close range it would have to be like i'd have to put it on i'd have to put the screen the old dead screen in front of my eyes and make some sort of attachment for like a helmet and make a night vision helmet and use it for close quarter combat or whatever that would be like the video i have a little nerve pistol and i'd run at night and i'd try to find my dog or something but i'd my eyes would be covered except for the thermal sensor something like that could be cool but yeah at a distance i really don't know what i could do with it because they're used a couple feet away it's pretty much a glorified ir sensor but a little bit more complicated and more pixels more more resolution that looks pretty good right head moves with the beal touch it's on that side that's how does it know it's limit on this side probably has something to take care of that but it just looks so much better this one already like it's it's an all metal casing all metal parts that one's all plastic i don't understand i don't understand how they could do such a bad job at that even like the steel plates just look cleaner the way the belts are connected they're crimped around the metal and the metal is inserted into the plate they're extremely tight you don't need belt tensioners on this sure you can always just pull it out more extremely tight i don't understand okay now we need our z-axis frames which are on linear linear tube guide rails sell the top tighten the four screws on top and then the sides you can adjust it to adjust the timing belt tightness oh that's cool so once you put it in the top oh shit wait that's so smart so the bracket that holds the the the sides of the top part on are the same brackets that hold the belt tensioners so all you have to do is just push it dude that's so smart all you have to do is push it and then tighten and now your belt is tightened and all you have to do is just loosen it push nice thing about this one too is a lot of this hardware is pretty most of these things can be replaced easily you now have a i see smarter design choices in these things yeah dude it's crazy i don't know if it made sense what i was saying but i don't know if you even have the video pulled up i'm guessing you're in podcast mode right now but give it a sec if you're in video mode here's uh here's what it looks like so the belt is right here on this and these two screws go into the top extruder and then this one is on the bottom and all you have to do is loosen this and this and that's that x is a hinge you can push this back and forward causing that to tighten or loosen pretty freaking cool make sure the bottom of the frame is facing you okay oh no i gotta put it down on the motor i don't like that oh it's behind his other way i'm a dumbass feels wrong but if it's not steady enough to put down on the side it'll be a little concerning here we go bring the cables in so they're not being crimped by the way okay now we grab our z-axis frames that were m 30 m 5 30s and we bolted in um clever i have to open it but i'm working hard in this place yeah yeah don't worry about it i can always send you a picture later if you really want to know it's just a hinge that's it pretty much instead of directly bolting into the frame it bolts into into a bracket that acts as a hinge and then you can use that bracket for structural um reason like to make it structurally stronger but also to leverage the belt that's it make sure the front of the make sure the front the bottom of the place i mean i have it set up just like the picture place double the axis frame inside okay so we get our axis to use but they probably have to be aligned okay let's see what it says so it says to take them rest it there for a sec extremely top heavy be aligned with the aluminum this is going to be fucking hard at first damn this is going to be a little tricky getting that first one in a little greasy but do the top screws first and then we'll come in after and finish the work i'm gonna make sure first i'm doing it properly motor is bottom side all right we're in that looks so good let's make sure we're going motors are bottom side all right we're good to go there's more than four like it's only four screws per it might make me it might make me turn it on and then set both servos on the z axis to the same height and then bolt in the bed that'll be a smart little engineering trick to get around i think it's just four good if i tighten the bottom one enough that's tight it's also tight it is now tight extremely tight because that's going to be the axis strain on it let's move all the cables over to the other side now get our other axis and then install it loving this time music okay we're good one more bolt and then we could probably put on we're probably playing all the cables and organize them always fun what now we have our z axis locked in steady as fuck or whole thing it's steady and it's getting heavy as fun what's next time to put in our okay we gotta turn it front side so so now we need our make sure the front of the base is facing you it is using four m4 10 millimeter screws is that these it is connect the hotbed to the support plate on the z axis make sure the hotbed is flat and all six screws are securely fast oh so it's hoping that i somewhat adjust these but if they're not the bed can always get leveled later on so what i could do is i could just count threads on each axis so we got one two three four five six seven ten eleven twelve thirteen here we got one two so this one is one thread higher i can't just adjust that or you know what i can also do i could just get a level i just don't know where my level is so we know the table is not leveled at all oh it's magnetic yeah this is not gonna work because the floor and the table are not leveled but does it matter or does it just have to be leveled relatively to itself right or am i just reaching for a result as long as it's leveled to itself then that's all that matters we're in the workshop is the level if it's an object game for the audience i have one big one but i think i know where it is i put it behind the table on a bowl on the wall and then you can put it down around but show me is that logic sane if i level the bed relative to the printer then it doesn't matter if the printer the table the printer is on is leveled because the bed will always always be leveled to the printer please tell me i'm not crazy oh wow it's actually pretty close just counting threads did a good job barely had to adjust it at all we're in the workshop is the square i think i have one but it's pretty rusted and gross square is not a bad idea but i need to level two individual platforms so how do you do that with a square like they're both on their own axises and i have to connect them the bed in the middle but it shouldn't matter the bed should be levelable levelable that's a word uh okay pass the m8 socket head cap screws through the flat using okay connect the hotbed blah blah blah then after it wants me to go and connect where's our spool holder you just had it where is it oh it's using a t-lock no t-nuts you know the ones that go in between the extrusion bars and they turn and they lock i think they're called tina tina locking nuts or whatever yolo put it all together and see if you make slanted boaties true can't wait to print my first benchy or yeah my first benchy i guess i have one somewhere here i still think it's one of the coolest print ideas ever they could have made some boring box that you have to print but instead they made a cool boat and the boat has most of the technical challenges that you'll run into with a printer pretty freaking cool use the question does it want me to install the filament holder like that i have a video i'm gonna pull it up quick oh wow that's interesting the it's like a min max situation where the piece barely hits the bed or sorry not barely hits but it shouldn't hit the bed so the the the roll of filament sits inside of the of the cube that's interesting i've never seen that before it sits right under the extrusion thing too that one's lined up with these all you gotta do is turn and tighten have to loosen them enough to figure out the details of this thing now we have a spool holder it seems to be modifiable that's what we're gonna modify it make it thinner wider higher make it hold more or less smaller bigger rolls seems pretty cool so now we need to get our bed this one like the anycubic frame glass is ridiculously smooth which means i can either use hairspray i can use glue or in my case i like to use um tape masking tape masking tape allows me to get ridiculously good sticks but also lets me just peel off the print effortlessly it's my little secret of the day you gotta be careful with this thing because it is solid gloss protected extremely well nice aluminum heater core in the bottom it's also solid as fuck i'm confused about it is what the fuck these are for they're like paper clips they hold in the gloss i think they are there's no way put it back on but there's no way that's how the glass is being held on by these little paper clips wait he's connecting the cables before he puts the bed in wait he is using paper clips what the fuck are you telling me this expensive ass printer that is extremely well designed its glass bed is being held by office paper clips i guess it makes it extremely easy to take out but that seems really wrong the other one has these like really nice metal clips is that the one designed for love i'm okay with it but maybe there's something i'm absolutely missing harder than i thought i guess i have to install it from the top like this all right that looks so good man look at that but also seems a bit small get the measuring tape quick watch them send me the wrong size printer it feels wrong printing bed on the big one is 350 times 350 all the small one it's so we got actually it's pretty accurate it's just built play better we got 37 centimeters times 37 centimeters times yeah 37 times 38 on the glass bed and then our z axis we're going to get limited so she's more than expected it's 45 so it's gonna have limits it has a little switch here that stops it from running into the wall but it's just built way better i guess this one is massive but it has the same size i don't know let me measure that you see on this one it's 43 times the glass bed on the old printer is way bigger but they have the same print sizes now when the glass bed gets bigger the warping gets bigger the bed's going to be smaller than the enclosure instance it's going to move on yeah but the way the like the the size of the glass on the old printer it's way bigger but their limitations in the hardware and in the software sorry their limitations in the software are the same they're both the same size of cubic centimeters in in print dimensions but the print glass is much smaller on this one which is which scene is really great because the glass warps like fucking crazy if it's a shit glass because you're bringing it up to sometimes you're bringing it up to 40 Celsius sometimes you're bringing it up to 100 Celsius sometimes even more and then suddenly you're dropping it so the glass gets all fucked up not if it's a good piece of glass but that glass is trash you could literally see if you line up your eyes with it you see that it's worked that's how bad it got this is great i'm very happy with this all right so we need to bolt from top down i don't even know what the allen key is gonna say well it has these those interesting washers that are like cut like earrings i don't know what they're called they're like locking washers you're supposed to squish some of it right what's up with that we're slightly misaligned on one of the parts now i really hope i really hope that's something on there and the bed is gonna oh lock washers that's what they're called yep they call them lock nuts lock nuts is the ones with the rubber the rubber at the end that kind of act like lock tight but temporarily they're good for vibration it's like the slightest misaligned which isn't letting me get the thread in why is it doing that okay maybe i need to undo this one yeah i had one of the screws too tight which wasn't giving any movement to the others that was a little weird scared me first what's nice about this is um the way they're mounting the way they mount the bed to the z axis the two individual z axis they have some sort of aluminum bar going across the plate so if that bar isn't perfectly flush with the z axis i'll know that one of them is misaligned i could just adjust from there i'm sure there's some kind of calibrations it usually is there's no way they're just making there's no way they're just trusting the clients to do everything right that'd be silly quite silly it's extremely nice printer one thing that's interesting is some printer companies uh like prusa which is like for some reason a highly renowned printer company they print a lot of parts that they use to build the printers so they have printers printing printers essentially which i get that their whole thing is like we can make printers so good that we can use the parts that they print to make other printers but at the end of the day printer parts are just not as precise as machined you know machined aluminum or strengthened steel like i don't know it seems like a weird uh weird thing to do and they charge the most for their printers like they charge a ridiculous price for these tiny ass printers because they're supposed to be like some of the best on the market for consumers but your printing your your printers are made out of plastic i would much rather have a fully steel or aluminum built printer that's heavy that's complicated but that prints good as fuck i want to like i would love to save up a bit and go buy some genuine carbon fiber composite um uh what's it called filament and then go get like a proper head that they can go to like 500 celsius and actually print like a carbon fiber like plate or something that'd be cool as fuck how strong is it really comparing to normal plastics is it worth the couple thousand or not a couple hundred dollars of of um modifications and is the filament even worth it because we're talking like a couple hundred dollars for the roll first product you could reduce with your cnc machine is more precise cnc machine through but when you're doing it with printers like i don't know it's just it's like was it's like is the first printer ever made out of hot glue is that how it works now because that's what these that's what these fdm printers are they're pretty much hot glue guns but on rails so tell me this is looking pretty badass to be honest make carbon fiber junk colors that'd be cool i thought it'd be cool to get uh military vests like a bulletproof vest but without the plates and to go and print different plates and be like i can't shoot a gun at them but i could shoot you know a bb gun with metal or steel bbs that could genuinely penetrate skin or even a pellet gun and be like how protective can these plastics get can they deal with an impact in a tiny little area like a ridiculous amount of force or will it just shred the layer in two and the and the pellet will go right through i think it'd be cool to do some sort of science thing like that like what different printing patterns equal more strength or less strength or is it all up to the filament like if we print it in a spiral motion versus an up or down or zigzag would those would those different patterns make a difference in the strength of the plastic when you're hitting it with a really high impact you know what i mean something like that could be cool what's left man i want to start printing probably honestly i could probably do it on i'll probably do it off-stream the closure but i'll definitely update is that it i gotta connect all the cables now god damn okay i guess that is what it is i do oh they're all labeled at least that at least they're slightly labeled have what's this x and x here i don't remember what x is x and x up here maybe you can embed some deformation sensors and different armor plates and see which one's more effective that'd be cool what if we what if we ran a couple of low voltage wires across it or inside of it and if it broke it would slice these cables and then you would know that the impact happened in a certain area that could be cool like a target target that's super efficient because we could just build an electrical grid inside and if any of the points of the grid go out kind of like a keyboard when you press a button like a matrix i think that's what it's called a matrix based impact pad or something like that one z here this is so many this is overwhelming cables what's an e cable scooter he has to be extruder it goes through the back i'm gonna need a lot of zip ties for this bitch all right you know i'm gonna do shama i guess check checking for breaks would be fun too is that not what you maybe you can embed some deformation sensors on different armor plates and see which ones are more effective wait so what do you mean by that deformation sensors often stretchable sensors i've heard of these i've never used them that one's cool that one looks like a like a bag with an air sensor then and depending on the pressure wait that's probably how some of those four sensors work right there's some sort of bag with air or liquid and when they get squeezed you can measure that pressure force coming out and turn it into some sort of impact force i'm sure there's different ones with like springs and you see how compacted the springs get and you can calculate a force off that stretchers break are these easy to make or expensive or sorry cheap to buy i'd be interested in doing that that looks really cool it's complicated as fuck though all right i'm on the stream thanks for being here shama i think it's literally the worst day to stream in the world at this time but i appreciate you being here i needed some good timelapse footage so the stream will be perfect because i'm just going to download it i'll keep talking to you in discord though