 If there's one type of problem you can expect in a roadway surface, it's wheel-routing, particularly in truck lanes and on roads with high volumes of traffic. As they should, motorists tend to travel in the center of the lane. So in this program, we'll look at the procedures to follow to correct wheel-routing or to put it better, to level the travel lane. As you'd expect, lane leveling evens the road surface and provides for a smooth ride. But that's just part of the reason for this maintenance activity. Lane leveling can also prevent bigger problems from occurring. If excessive wheel-ruts are left unrepaired through the winter, they can defeat all the hard work that goes into plowing. That's because a plow would bridge over a rut this deep, leaving snow in the very place where motorists travel. Lane is also a good solution for depressions in shoulders and for breaks between the shoulder and the pavement. Depending on the extent of the problem, lane leveling can be used to cover anything from isolated areas to several hundred feet of the entire width of the roadway. But this activity is expensive. So as the Foreman's Handbook says, it should be used only in areas with a distortion of three-quarters of an inch in 10 feet or greater. With those points in mind, let's look at each step of the procedure. As with any other maintenance activity, the first step is to set up all the proper traffic control devices. Because of the size of the grader, you'll always have to close at least one lane. So you'll need a lane drop symbol sign if two or more lanes will remain open to traffic or a one-lane road ahead sign if traffic will have to alternate through the work area. And, of course, cones are needed for all lane closures. Now, before going any further, look closely over the area to be leveled. As you've seen, wheel rutting is your primary concern. But also, be on the lookout for signs of shoving. If you find any of these high areas, you'll have to trim them before you level the surface. Just be sure you don't put too much down with pressure on the blade. The whole idea is to just cut off the high spots as you move along. For all the traffic control has been set up, make sure the surface is as clean as possible. That's because the next step is to tack the surface. And there's no way the tack will bond the new material to the old if the surface is dirty. In some cases, hand brooming is enough. In other cases, a power broom should be used. Whatever it takes to get the surface as clean as it can possibly be. Now the tack can be applied. Your major concern here is to apply only as much tack as you need. And however much you apply has to be covered. Uncovered tack is very slippery and can be a real safety hazard. So be sure you know the exact limits of the area to be leveled. Much tack will also bleed and push, creating a depression and also a bump. After you've applied the tack, look over the application. It has to be even over the entire area you intend to level. Remember, the whole purpose of the tack is to bond the new material to the old. If there are any gaps, the new material may not stay in place. So if it's not even, roll the entire surface with a truck. That way, all the gaps will be filled in and the new material will be held in place over the entire area. The next step is to spread the bituminous mixed material. It's a good idea to have someone behind the truck watching the material to direct the speed. In many cases, the mix will not come out evenly. So a little direction can help give you a good, even spread. Now you can go to work with a grater. There are four important things to remember throughout this step of the work. First, the whole idea is to fill in the low spots. So you'll have to move the mix continuously to where it's needed. Second, you should compact the mix as much as possible after each pass. That way, you'll know if you've filled the low spots completely. Transitions from the old surface to the new leveled surface have to be as smooth as possible. That includes not only the beginning and ending points, but any edge that's exposed to traffic. And fourth, remember to maintain the roads cross-section. Water has to be able to drain away from the road surface. With those points in mind then, let's look at the grading passes. The first thing to do is to make sure there is enough material to lay the patch. On the first pass, begin making the transition on the outside edge as smooth as possible. There are two good reasons for working the outside edge first. Number one, you need to match up the outside edge of the mix with the outside edge of the tack. Remember, all the tack has to be covered. And number two, you need a good reference point for maintaining the roads cross-section. With the outside edge set, you can better determine where to move the material. After the first pass has been made, compact the material. This is one of the most important steps of the operation. In fact, compaction should follow every grading pass. That way, you can see if you've moved enough mix to specific sections. Particularly the low spots you're trying to level. From here on, there's no set number of passes to make or any specific order to make them. It depends mostly on the severity of the damage. But try to make no more passes than necessary. In many cases, however, you'll find that it works best if you move the mix across the area, compacting after each pass, and then moving the mix back again. Fine grading and compacting a little more as you go is be aware of the transition areas. The mix should never extend beyond the tack. If you get to the end of the area you're leveling and you're still moving a lot of mix, raise the moldboard so you don't lose sight of the tack. The idea is to move the mix back and forth across the area and back and forth along the area. Again, there's no set number of passes to make. Just be sure that the mix is even with the edge of the tack. All transitions are smooth. That you maintain the road's cross section and that the entire area is completely level. As soon as the grading is finished, rolling begins. The most important functions of rolling are to compact and smooth the surface. Let's start with compaction. First, you should always begin at the low side and work toward the high side. That helps keep the mix from shifting. And second, always lead with the drive wheel on initial passes. That prevents the mix from being pushed ahead of the roller. Now to smooth the area as much as possible, drive in as straight a line as possible. Make all turns and stops slowly and gradually. Or pull off the surface completely before changing directions. And never park on the mix. That's sure to make the surface uneven. When rolling is complete, this is what the surface should look like. Smooth, even and level. And those are the procedures for lane leveling. When done correctly, motorists will enjoy a smooth ride. We'll get more life than the pavement and less aggravation in the winter.