 All right, so we've got us a unit here that tripped the breaker this morning. It was tripped when they came in. And now after they reset it, it's running fine. So they've got a few different units here to control the building. So it's surviving just fine when it even went off. So now's the fun time of trying to figure out what tripped it. So we popped the cover. I can just do a visual. It feels hot. So looking at the coils, they look clean, they could very easily be not clean. Luckily they actually have water out here for it. So we're gonna go through and just check the obvious stuff, just like normal. Make sure my connections are tight, make sure capacitors are good, make sure refrigerant charge is good, coils clean, belts tight. Filters are already been checked, all the usual things that usually tend to create a call. This is one of the ones without a belt. Kind of just looking at it here. Looking at that board, that is probably not the greatest place for that to be placed at, but unfortunately that's where it's at. I'm not 100% certain if that's some sort of fan time delay board or what it is, just to have to look it up, see if I can figure it out. It may not be anything important. Fan blades are clean, we'll check our capacitor real quick, make sure it's all right. As always, power down, discharge, blah, blah, blah. Don't do this if you ain't a professional, not responsible for killing yourselves. Went through and checked all the capacitors, they're all fine, they all checked with Inspect. Here's the economizer. See these old birds that often anymore, it looks to me like some of it's been maybe unhooked. Not gonna be used for this particular spot anyhow because of what they're trying to cool. And so we're looking fairly decent so far, nothing's really standing out. Anything that would have caused it to trip. Coils don't look horrid. So nothing's standing out. So we checked the contactor, it's a little bit pitted and we're gonna check the wires on the compressor. I checked the ground on everything, nothing there. So I haven't checked winding and winding or anything like that. But you can see the motor here is looking a little bit tired. So we could have a motor possibly starting to fail could cause it something to cause high amperage enough to trip it possibly compressor isn't kicking on smoothly. Maybe it's pulling high amps. So it's hard to say they do have a digital thermostat on this so it should have a built in time delay. Everything's fairly tight. Sure if we got somewhere in here it might be possibly shorten into something does not appear to be. Look at wire there. Right up there is possibly pinched in between the metal or not. May have to pop this top to find out because that don't look like that's real good. Could be wrong but I'm gonna look at that. Just got done tightening up this lug here. It was a little bit loose. Wasn't horrible but it was definitely a little bit loose. So that could have caused some heat build up possibly. I think I was correct. That's the fan delay board for the blower. There's no other devices in here that can control that fan. I don't even see the usual contact or that you normally see in there. We're gonna check starting the ampere to see what we got going on. The coil is clean. Make sure that these are some of the hardest calls to find out what's going on if it doesn't show us ugly head while you're here. Easily we'll end up in a repeat call. All right, I checked all these wires up in here because they've got them all kind of squeezed in between there but that's normal. There's a little bit of room for them to come through. We're gonna see how our starting ampere is here. Blower's pulling 3.7. Very likely won't come on. You shouldn't do this. So don't do it. I'm gonna push the contactor in. Wow, 50 amps. So we've got these wires up here. They look like they're clearing everything as they come through. Wire tie that used to work. Keeping things out of the way. Got a new one on that. Yeah, it's just nothing's showing its ugly head. It's all low voltage stuff here. The compressor pulled a little bit of amperage on it first started up. But you know, we could recommend changing the contactor here. Put a generic hard start on it. Something just kind of give it an extra boost. Not a whole lot you can do when it's not acting up. These are the worst calls. I mean, you can start replacing a lot of stuff that just isn't gonna fix it. But you know, a few maintenance items like contactor stuff wouldn't be a bad idea. But like I said, the capacitor checked out fine. They're with intolerance. That fan motor looks like it's had better days, but I hate replacing things if I'm not certain. That's what it is. I went inside and checked the breaker to this. It's a 60 amp breaker that's feeding this. So it's what tripped. It was tight, nothing wrong with it. I gave them the option. I said, you know, we could do something or do nothing. We're gonna go ahead and update the contactor here. They're gonna add at least generic super boost to it. These are cheap. They're not as good as a true start relay type boost capacitor type deal, but it's cheap. And a lot of times sound about your area, but people are economically minded around here. So, and when you don't have a true solution because you can't find the problem, you know, you offer it to them. And if they wanna do it, great, if they don't, you come back and catch it on the no group next go round, but at least you offered it to them and it makes it a billable call. So either way, you just gotta do what you can do. Things in 1998, but to go replacing an OEM fan motor or a compressor on an old R22 just doesn't make sense. So this is the cheapest solution to try to give them some reassurance, but there's no guarantees. We got the little booster in there. Like I said, those are not my favorite type. Got the jumper in here for the single pole contactor conversion. Gonna see what kind of amperage it pulls now on the startup. You can see our coil is clean. You can see the light through it. Plain as day over there, so coil is clean. Was looking for anything that could have caused it. High amperage, you know, compressor struggling to keep the head pressure down, you know, pretty much about anything. Nice screw to put in your eyeball for getting hit by the fan blade. Let's speed this thing up a little bit. And lastly, flipped it on, you could hear something sizzling, that breaker has had a bad day. It screwed, and so is that base that it's hooked onto. So now we gotta get a new disconnect box, because this one's not gonna get it. That is messed up. So there's why I had a loose connection. I tightened these ones down here on the income, or outgoing side of it. You know, these squeezed together, which is kind of, you know, it's what they are inside the box. The industrial ones, they bolt down. But that thing's gone, so we need to get a disconnect box. Here's that contact we replaced. It looks OEM to me. You can see it's pitted down in there. It's not horrid, but definitely you can see it. Not looking the greatest in the world. Actually it looks a little crappier than I thought. So that's, I don't think it's a bad item to replace either way. And like I said, that cheap little booster capacitor there, I think those are less than 20, 25 bucks. So if that could be less. But we'll go ahead and get them a new disconnect box on there, and we're gonna go ahead and kill power to this. Don't wanna leave this exposed. That's when I walk up and get this out. Well, I went to Lowe's to pick up one of these. These things are only like 13 bucks. They only had a couple 20 amp breakers. Supposedly there's some national shortage of breakers. So I got this non-fused disconnect which you'd use for residential. It's rated for 60 amps, so we're code-wise we're good, but I ain't my first choice. So it'll work, it'll get them going. Gonna double check charge here. All right guys, so that's gonna wrap this one up. I couldn't get this box off. They literally folded it to the back side of this sheet metal. So I literally had to use the grinder there to grind the heads of the bolts off. Everything looked good on the refrigerant pressures. It's been working fine for them prior to. So this one's gonna get wrapped up now. If you like the video and you wanna see more like it, please give it a thumbs up. Make sure you leave a little feedback down below. Don't forget to check the notes section there for any links to the tools that I use if you wanna help support the channel. Also have the Patreon account now. So until next time guys, we'll catch you on the next one.