 Welcome back guys, we're going to be tearing into Annie before we get started. If you haven't subscribed, please consider subscribing now and make sure you click that notification bell there at the bottom so that you're notified when I release my next video. Also, if you'd like to support the channel, please check out my toolboxes of tools that I put together. They all can be purchased through Amazon. I get a portion of the proceeds. You still pay the same money. Now let's go ahead and get started on the video. All right guys, we've talked about it a few times before. We're going to talk about Annie. She was built back, I believe, in the 80s sometime. I actually have the manual for it, believe it or not. I picked this thing up on eBay. It looks like her copyright right there is 1980. So here's Annie. Basically, you can build these yourselves if you wanted to. I'm pretty sure this one here was the Deluxe model because it pretty well has everything built into it. You got to remember digital meters and stuff wasn't really popular if even available. This is the model number of it, the A12. You know this had it built in far as your amperes, volts, ohms. It has three capacitors built right in there. You arrange here, here, and here. You have your start, forward and reverse. This also serves as your ohm meter. It has a D battery inside there. You've actually got capability of plugging this into the wall. So if you're working on a 120 volt device, it comes with a real nice heavy 12 gauge extension cord built into it. And then it has the gator clips here. As you can tell, this thing's pretty much in mint condition. You've got your run start, common ground. Also came with a little jumper deal here. So if you wanted to do 230 volt, say you was doing a regular compressor on, like, say a home system, even got the warning tags on there for it, which is pretty crazy. Then looking at the back side here, you've got a breaker built right into it to protect you against shorts. And then you've got your potentiometer there to adjust your ohms to the zero position. Now since this is a copy, I went ahead and highlighted things to make it easier because I don't use this very often. You know, you pretty well was getting away with not having to get out another meter. A lot of times what I'll do is I'll take my amp meter and I'll just clamp onto the common or whatever. Some of the features, like I said, it's got a volt meter. It's got an amp meter to reverse or rock frozen unit to test capacitors. What they're actually doing here is they're powering the capacitor up with 120 volts and you're watching the neon light and you're going to see whether or not it takes the charge. The ability to test potential relays, which is pretty cool. This has a step up transformer and this allows you to figure out your pickup and dropout voltages because a lot of these potential relays and stuff a lot of times don't have the pickup voltages and stuff on them. And then here's your actual schematic of the layout. Here's your potential relay positions, which one you want to hook it to. I've actually made cheat sheets here to make it easier on myself. The run is red, white start and black is your common. And of course, you know, cautions, which must be used by trained qualified people. That knocks out about half the people out there because you figure something like this is technically kind of dangerous. When you hook this up, you've got live voltage here on these terminals. Here's your step up transformer. That allows it to put out, I think it was up to 400 volts. We're going to pull this thing apart and actually take a look at the inside of it. This is basically just an aluminum body. Say we were getting ready to test a compressor. We'd have it in the opposition. We'd have our amp meter depending on how big the compressor is. We may have it on high. Your voltage, this just tells you whether the voltmeter is reading, whether it be lower voltage or higher voltage. This also serves as your voltages for your potential relay, 140 or 208 and 319 to 421. And then this here is the relay, far as you can actually check resistance of your windings. And then depending on where you got it at, that'll tell you your start resistance. And that there will tell you your run resistance. But you got to remember when this thing was built, this was groundbreaking. You can build this thing with a light switch box and a momentary switch. All right, got those screws out. Let's go ahead and lift her up. Here's the inside of it. As you can tell, almost all my tools are marked inside on the circuit board and stuff like that. We've got the D battery here. This is for the ohm meter. This pickup coil here is what they're using to measure amperage. That goes down to the amp meter. It's basically just a generic field transformer there that basically picks up the flux lines to measure amperage, just like normal. You've got a circuit breaker right here, which they said was a 30 amp breaker. You can pick those up for 10, 20 bucks. You can buy them on eBay, Amazon, whatever. We had one resistor that was damaged. So I went ahead and replaced that with... Here's your switching being done here. Most of them are open and closed. Everything in here seems to be made out of 10 gauge wire, which would be probably appropriate, means it's a 30 amp circuit. Then the lighter gauge wires are going to be your meters and things like that. So as you can tell guys, there really ain't a whole lot to this thing. It's pretty simplistic. I think I paid $60 or $75 for this thing. Even today's current one that they have available, I think sells for $200 somewhere in that area. And then you've got your capacitors over here, which I had to replace one of them. I held the button a little too long and blew it up. You're pushing down with your thumb and you're rocking that thing back and forth, trying to break it loose. And it was just kind of learning how to use it. And they think that was how I made the mistake. Then kind of jumping down to here, there's your step up transformer. And then there's the potentiometer for your ohm meter. It's not perfectly accurate. I mean, for an analog meter, you know, it's a very cheap meter that they used here. These things are actually made in the USA. Of course, this was built before we sold ourselves out to the Chinese. And so a lot of things were made here shouldn't be a real surprise. Some of our heavy switches here, which that one right there is your capacitor switch. Here on this side here is your momentary switch to engage the capacitor. All right, jumping back into testing because I don't think we really need to go into the great detail of how things built. You've now seen what the insides are like. And now we're going to show you how to test the capacitor with this old beast. We've got a turbo 200 here that we're going to test. We can go ahead and test it with the old fluke here. What this is supposed to be is the five microfarad, which were coming in at 4.6. So we did verify that it works. And just for reminiscent sake, I don't know if you guys remember this old meter. This was one of my first ones that I had back when field piece first came out. It's not true RMS, but I got this back, I think in 97. You know, it served me well for quite a few years. I've got the back from the old T87 days with 10 wraps. And then so you could do your microamps on your flame sense. I had that. See what it comes out to be in. What the heck? Making me look bad. Well, you know what you should do? We'll just test our leads out and see if it's worth a crap. Right there's a reason why you always test your meter with Ohms first to see if your leads are any good. That's how you don't get your butt shocked. We're not getting anything. So either these leads are defective or something. I went ahead and plugged them in back and forth again, and she does now make continuity. So now it is working. Yeah, 4.5. The fluke had 4.6. So 20 some years old, and it still reads pretty accurate. It's not true or a mess like I said, but you know, it reads pretty doggone close. So anyhow, we know that this capacitor is good. The way this thing tells us to check the capacitor is to hook the black and green lead up to your capacitor, making sure your switch is in the off position, that your own meter is in the power position. And then when we test it, we're going to flip it to high and we're going to watch the capacitor light light up. And like I said, once it lights up and goes out, that means the capacitor is charged and it's good to go. If it stays constant on, the capacitor is shorted. And if it does some funky crap, whatever they said, if it lights and decreases, but does not go out, it's leaking. So we've got that. All right. So let's go ahead and hook this up to the center conductor there. Hook the other one to the five. Got it there. Our power is already on. As you can see, we're going to flip it over to here and watch the red light go. Yep. If you've seen it, it went on and went out. It's also measuring voltage. It's trying to tell us that is a 112, which that's not accurate. And sure enough, 120 volts. So when a capacitor is charged and when you measure across it, it'll go to zero. Well, that light is across it and it basically went out because there's no potential across it. So there you go. So it did show fine. Now the problem is that capacitor is now live. So we're going to go ahead and turn that back off. That went dead. That's how you test the capacitor. What we went ahead and did was shorted the two leads together. We are going to go to high and what's going to happen is light comes on and it stays on. That's a shorted capacitor. And if it was open like that, flip it on, nothing. Got voltage here, no light ever came on at all, nothing. And that's an open one. So it doesn't tell you the exact microfarads, but it does at least tell you whether it's taken charge, holding charge, or bleeding off. And I don't have a back half ass capacitor that I could use to show you one that's bleeding. So that's how it tests the capacitor. Now what's lucky for you is I actually have a potential relay here that we can test out next. Connected it up to it. I've added the digital meter there so that we know what's going on. You wanted to start out with all your switches in the off position. Set this switch here to the relay. This is going to power that step up transformer. We're going to turn on the master, which is going to then power to the relay, which we're at 87 volts. It's reading somewhere close to that there. And then here's your potential inverter to increase it. The non-RMS meter shows the same pretty much 118.9, 118 versus 119. Not bad for a meter that's 20-some years old. And not true RMS. True RMS is going to show up more when you're in a generator or something like that, where you don't have clean power. So we're going to go ahead and continue to increase the voltage. And then you'll start hearing that relay getting ready to trigger. And that light will go out. Boom. It went out. And because I don't always remember what exactly is what, it looks like 5 and 2 is going to be our coil. Going back over here. Turn that on. We'll increase as it eventually hits it. This voltage really should not change. Yeah. So you can see it does change. The load went off of the transformer. But you can see what voltage it was actually at. So doing that again, you could actually watch this meter here. It'll do the same thing. See, it jumps up even on that one. All right. Did a little searching online. And the pickup of voltage per Copeland's manual is 260 to 280. We came in at 220. So it's off by a little bit. But as fast as that's rising, um, maybe this relay, I changed it out because I changed the compressor. It was fairly a new one. The new compressor went bad right away. I forget exactly what was the story. But either way, the relay was supposed to be still probably good, but I changed it with a new compressor. Now the dropout voltage 105 is what I had. And it should vary between 50 and 110. So that's pretty accurate. But the pickup is off by about 50 volts. That's how the potential relay part works. Now we're going to mimic the common and start terminals. White is your start terminal. We have it turned on. When we hit the start button, that's going to energize the white terminal. So when you are going to start a compressor, what you actually do is I hold down, flip over, and then within a second lift up, releasing it, and it's out of the circuit. So basically do that again, capacitor in, up it goes. So and then if we check between the run and common, we should have 122 volts setting there. So let's go ahead and shut this back down. Now we are connected between common and run. We flip the power on and it should be 122 volts. Will not be affected obviously by pushing the button. All that is doing is energizing the white wire there, which is your start. And that's about it. So basically these two buttons right here is all you need to be able to build a start relay bypass. All right, I did a little searching around to try to make this a little easier. But if you check on Dave's repair.com, he's made a little compressor tester. Here's basically an example of using it with a two by four handy box with a momentary switch, a toggle switch, and a resettable breaker. You scroll down a little bit here, and you can actually see the schematic diagram of it. You can actually see a little bit better how the system's laid out. This isn't nothing fancy, but guys, like I said, you don't need all that other crap that's in my machine because you can do that with your meter nowadays. And it's really not that big of a deal. You've got your cord, you can either be 120, you can either put gator clips here, or you can use a regular cord that he's saying chop it off somewhere. Then you want to have some sort of user breaker. That way you don't have a catastrophic failure of some sort. In case there's a short or you screw up or something's wrong. And then here's your toggle switch. And then there is your momentary switch going to the start. Now what you'd have to do and you don't have it here, now this is for one that doesn't have a start capacitor, you would actually have to put in line here, a capacitor. So you put a female terminal here and a female terminal here and clip it on your start. And that would put it in the circuit or you could wire a wire here and take it over to a gator clip and a wire there to a gator clip and then hook it then to start. And that would put it into it. Same thing, or if it's say it's a regular compressor, you could use the run capacitor. So, but you get the gist of the idea here. But check out this davesrepair.com. This is pretty cool. Also, if you go over to the imperial site, which imperialtools.com, these look like some of the more higher dollar ones. They have one with an analog meter similar to what you already see, but they have a really fancy one. And I did a little searching around and I haven't found it yet. But this one right here actually has a mega build into it and it has a digital readout. Just checking right now on eBay and a few other things. These just even used ones, people are wanting stupid money for them. You know, here's some vintage ones. I mean, they're wanting 40 bucks for these beaters. And then the UEI one, this is the one that's the most common now that I see. And, you know, 250 bucks. And what they've done is they've actually made it so you can put your test probes kind of like I was doing right there so that you can put your meter leads in there and then measure it. And then they're just putting regular little toggle switches in there and there you go.