 He was true in the beginning. He was true when the ages commenced and has been true. He is also true now. Satguru Nanak says that he will certainly be true in future as well. While these immortal words from the Gurbani sound magical anywhere, here, in this vast expanse of a cold desert, thousands of feet above the sea, amidst the starkness of the landscape, in the warmth of a Gurdwara, their essence somehow becomes crystal clear. This tiny Gurdwara, Gurdwara Sri Pathar Sahabji, is situated on the Srinagar Leh Road, just 25 kilometers short of Leh. It may not match the grandeur of the other better known Gurdwaras, but not only did Guru Nanak live and meditate here, he also fought a demon. In 1570, he reached Leh on the way to Thibbath, Nepal. A few days later, when he started his kirtan, in the middle of Balat-e-Mardana, the people were in danger. He saw that there was a magical power, because Guru Nanak lived in the area where he lived. He requested that there be a very dangerous demon on the other mountain, but he was very worried about it. Guru Nanak said that he was sitting in the same place as the demon. The demon thought that he would look at me, and I would kill him. He put a big stone on Guru Nanak. Guru Nanak had already become a mom when his body was not touched. Guru Nanak's stomach was stuck in the stone. Guru Nanak said, Guru Lama, and Guru Rinpoche were the names given to him by the locals during his stay. Until today, they revere him as their own. Nearly all who travel this road stop a while at Gurdwara Pathar Sahab, the devout to pay obeisance, the curious to know more about this quaint place of pilgrimage, and the hungry to enjoy piping hot langar, a meal from the community kitchen available at any time of the day, all thanks to the Indian army who manage Gurdwara Pathar Sahab, so that those who come seeking the Guru Lama's divine presence return touched by it again and yet again.