 Hi, Rob's back along with his hands and I promised last time that I would decide whether to take the top part off or the bottom part off. I think I'm going to take the bottom part off because there's this annoying tilt to the machine so I'm going to remove the bottom. So if we look at the bottom, let me just move this a little bit, okay, I guess that's okay. Well, whatever. Make sure that's in frame. Okay, so there are two feet but these other two feet happen to be missing. These screws kind of seem to be in the wrong place. So anyway, I'm just going to remove them. I'll put these screws in bag one as well. They look sufficiently different. So I'm just going to take my big screwdriver and remove these screws and see what they are. So the screw, it's kind of a big screw. Is it an eight? No, it's even bigger than that. It's a 316th 32 screw and it is half an inch. Bag it and let's move on to this other one which I would guess is the same but you never know sometimes people replace these screws with the wrong size, half an inch, same size. Okay, and now we've got these two top screws here. Here's one. I should probably take the foot off first. So here's one foot. The screw is actually not coming out of the foot because the foot is deformed so it's not coming out. But I can still measure the screw and it is indeed 316th 32nd. So that goes along with the foot in the bag. Let's take the other foot off also, okay, and this screw actually does come off. That's interesting. I've got a shoulder on it and that's important to know. So I'm pretty sure it's also 316th 32nd, yes it is, and it is of length 0.855. The threads themselves are 0.448 and that goes into the foot. And now these other screws, this one I've already loosened is 316th 32nd and it's also half an inch. See if you look at this screw closely, I don't know if it's going to show up on the video. Let's do this. I guess it's going to show up. There's kind of a tiny shoulder. It's not really a shoulder, it's just an unthreaded part. I don't know if that makes any difference. I'm not enough of a machinist or a mechanical engineer to know if that's significant or not. Okay, and then here's the final one and I'm holding on to the machine because this is the last screw holding the back on. Okay, there we go. So oh, you know what I forgot to do? I forgot to set my timer. So we've got a timer going on. So back to this. So again it's a 316th, sorry I said 316th, it's actually a 10, number 1032, yeah it's a 1032 screw and it's also half an inch. Okay now we can take the bottom off and that's interesting. So here's the bottom. It's just some sort of a kind of a rubbery, plasticky kind of stand off here. There's not much that's interesting here. It's just a bottom. This is interesting. It kind of looks like one of those old desk blotters I guess. It's the same material but it's smooth on top, it's a bit rough on the bottom and it kind of looks like it's got the impression of, I don't know, a cloth of some kind. I don't know what the hell it is but it's not rubber and it's not plastic and it looks kind of clothy. It's got a little bit of, I don't know, threads over here. So well, whatever it is, it clearly goes on in one direction. Okay, well that was dirty, oops I think I banged the camera. So all right, well here's the underside, hooray. So let's tip it back over and continue with the disassembly. So I'm going to close bag one so nothing rolls away. All right, so now last video I said that there was a crank on here that was preventing the front from coming off. Now if you've got one of those cranks that's really rusty and you put some penetrating lubricant onto the screw because you don't want to remove it right away for fear that the screw will actually break because the force of the rust is holding it in place too tightly. Then in that case, I think it's best to just leave the front on until that lubricant really penetrates inside. So as I take the top off, if you have one of those machines that has the front on we're just going to leave the front on and take the top and the front off in one piece because this twirly crank thing is actually only attached to the top. So yeah, just a little warning. So in order to remove the top, we're going to have to remove all of these keys. So I'm going to open another bag so that I can put all the keys in there. The keycaps, I'll call it bag two, bag two, and I'll put the serial number on, 77339. So some of these keycaps will just pull right off, okay, there, see they just come right off. The ones that don't, you'll have to pry them off with a screwdriver or something, but you don't want to damage the finish on the front because that would leave scratches and stuff. I mean, obviously if the front is like completely rusted, I don't know, well, you know, maybe you want to protect the top as well to prevent there from being any scratches. So what you basically do is you take something to protect the front and then you just put it on the front and or the top and then you can lean your screwdriver up against it and just push the key cap right off. So, but obviously removing it with your hands is more efficient in terms of time. So we've got eight rows of keys here, that one's not coming out, so, and it's two black rows, three white rows, and three black rows. And the idea is that these would be cents and these would be dollars and the comma was over here. Now you can see that there are these flippy things and that's, that was there, it's green on one side to blend in with the top and then white on the other side. So if you weren't using, you know, dollars and cents, maybe you were using four decimal points, you can just flip one of these over and that would be your decimal point, basically. So, all right, let's try that, no, okay, so we'll pry the nine off. That's all there is to it, so just give me a second to wake the computer up. So while I'm pulling all these digits off, I can tell you a little bit about the history of this machine and the Monroe Calculating Machine Company. Back in 18, something or other, let me see when, 1873, there was a guy whose name was Frank Baldwin and he was an inventor and he invented a bunch of things including something called the arithmometer which was an early adding machine and there's a patent, a U.S. patent that you can look up that was patented in 1874. Anyway, so he developed this adding machine but it was never successful. There was no real profit in it. Anyway, fast forward to around 1911 or so. Frank Baldwin, he's now 73 years old, he meets up with this lawyer for Western Electric named J. Monroe and I don't know how they met but Monroe took an interest in the idea of a mechanical calculator so they decided in 1911 to start a company to build adding machines. They actually founded it in 1912 in Orange, New Jersey. So they started building prototype calculators. I think the prototypes were called A, B and C because in 1915 they started selling the model D calculator and I've never seen a model D. I don't know what it looks like. I don't think you can even probably buy one or find one because there were very, very small numbers of each one built because they were really the first ones. So the model D in 1915 was followed up in 1916 by the model E and then in 1917 with the model F, again in small numbers and then finally in 1918 there was the model G and that was the very first commercially successful adding machine that the Monroe company sold. So starting in 1918 you can see the newspapers and magazines just saturated with ads for the Monroe calculator 1918 and they sold that for something like three years up until 1921 when they came out with the K series. Now what happened to H, I and J? I'm not sure but I suspect that those were prototypes for the model K. I believe the model G was significantly, well the model K which is this one, I think was significantly different from the model G so they had to go through several prototypes and I suspect that those are the missing letters. So and then there was the model K that was sold from 1921 to 1928. How many were sold? I have no idea but I'm pretty sure it's in the thousands if not tens of thousands because you can find these all over the place. Now you noticed, maybe you noticed as I was pulling this apart that there was one of the zero keycaps was missing. That was missing when I bought it. Here's a little piece of one. That was missing when I bought it and maybe this is a piece of it but I can probably go into SOLIDWORKS and model one of these keycaps and then just send it off to Shapeways to get it 3D printed. That's pretty cool. So the model K is a manually operated machine so it has this crank and that came out in 1921. In 1922 they started adding motors to it and the motor was this big thing that hung off the side and it sort of powered the machine from here and it had a plus and a minus button and it had a couple of switches on it. It was fairly primitive but it was operated by a motor which I guess was a new thing at the time and they started doing that in 1922 so just one year after the manual version came out. This is a manual version. So okay I have taken off all the keycaps. There is still this one button which in fact is not connected to anything inside the machine itself. It's just a lever. Basically what this does is it says item count on it and the idea is that these rows would be used for a numeric entry and you could press the one button down and if you turned the item count so that the arrow is facing that way then when you cleared the key the keys the one would remain activated. So what this would do is that every time you turn the crank this side of the carriage of the numbers in the carriage would register one for every operation that you did. If you subtracted it would reduce by one so it's not quite an operation counter but for what it's worth that's what it's for. So if you release the item count and then press clear well okay so obviously it's not working very well but the one is supposed to come up. I don't know why it's not coming up anyway. So the point is that this isn't actually attached to anything inside the machine. So what we now need to do is remove these flippy things. They are actually connected to the to the frame of the machine so we have to remove them. So I will take this screwdriver I'm going to close bag two because that contains all of our keys. I'm going to start bag three. Where is my sharpie right here? So bag three, serial seven seven three three nine. I'm having this anxiety that the that the camera is not actually recording but it doesn't look like it's recording. Also my sound it is still recording. Okay so screwdriver and these are little screws so I'm going to take the little screwdriver head out. Okay so I'll remove this from the bottom first. So this is kind of a tiny screw so it's probably a number four yes it is a number 448 it's got a kind of decorative round head it's a quarter inch personally if it were me I'd have gone with brass. Move this other screw. By the way this video these videos are published in HD 1080p so I highly suggest that you go full screen on these because you know details also 440 also looks the same as the other one and it is indeed quarter inch bagged and now this just comes right out so I guess these things are I don't know pressed in maybe I'll just leave it as an assembly at this point and set it aside. Okay hey look dust okay so I'll also do the same thing on this top rail there are three screws holding that top rail down so I'm going to unscrew those 448 quarter inch. The reason that I'm being so careful about measuring these screws is that there aren't any instructions there's no reference online to you know what screw goes where so if I get it wrong that's it if I wouldn't be able to figure it out I'd pretty much be hosed not going to make the obvious joke don't make the obvious joke look 440 quarter inch and finally four did I say 440 what I meant was 448 440 would be a coarse thread this machine only uses fine threads so 448 and again quarter inch bagged okay and then we have this other rail will it fit in the bag no so I'll just set the rail aside okay let's see what else have we got so we've got this remaining screw here and this screw here that we can remove 448 this one doesn't seem to want to come out I'm going to go with a slightly bigger head let's see what will this work yeah this this fits a little better so so in order to get this screw out I'm not just going to apply torque I'm also going to push down which usually helps yep it comes right out 448 quarter inch yeah if I were definitely going to pimp this out I would use brass screws all right um okay so there are several screws that were kind of hidden under the keycaps and you wouldn't be able to get to them there's one here and there's one here okay so let's go ahead and remove those pushing down as I do it okay this is also a 448 quarter inch and this next one also a 448 quarter inch all right we're getting there I think there is this screw remaining I'm pretty sure yeah feels like that's attached to the frame so I'm going to take that out that is also 448 quarter inch all right so I should be able to remove the top now and indeed it is coming off and there we go all right let's have a look at the bottom okay so as I said this wasn't actually attached to anything in particular it's just something that hooks into the one key and prevents it from from moving there is the the twirly thing for the carriage there is this thing which is what doesn't seem to be anything in particular I'm not certain what that is for maybe it hooks to something in the machine itself let's see yeah I don't really know it kind of sort of looks like it's somewhere around here so anyway and then there is this other thing over here which seems to connect to here to this thing and it's a lever which goes somewhere over here so maybe it's connected to some mechanism over here anyway this thing now slides out so we can slide that out and set it aside these are actually rollers they're bearings and pro tip don't use any lubricant or penetrating lubricant on these because that will screw up the rollers and cause them to freeze into place you know don't do that okay so there we go here is the top of the machine so you can see that I don't know if it's possible to see but the the profile of these things is such that if you push down there's this spring-loaded rocking kind of lever that holds the key in place and so if you release the rocker it releases the keys hooray all right let's uh let's see what else we can do what else we can take apart we can I believe remove this entire keyboard mechanism I think because there appears to be a screw here and a screw here which holds this frame and another screw here and this big sort of screw over well it's actually inside here that's holding on to the top frame and in terms of the sides I don't see anything here and here it looks like there's also nothing holding on to it so so that's what we're going to do we're going to remove these two screws and these two screws and see what we get so uh right so so on this side you can see that we have this screw here and this screw here which I'm going to remove with maybe a no I think this is the right size so let's see how we're doing on time we have oh just about three minutes left okay well I think I'm going to leave that until the next video so let me go ahead and well no I'll just leave it partially screwed out so that we can so that I can remember exactly which screw I was starting on okay so that's it for part two of taking apart this calculator the playlist is going to be called the playlist on youtube is going to be called monroe calculator model k restoration I guess and it'll contain all the videos this will be part two and I think that is going to be it for this video so until next time bye