 Kumusta sa inyo lahat? Ito po si Lamo Delist at tulipo kayo sa aking channel. Hey everyone, as you know, May is the month of Flores de Mayo in the Philippines and in honor of this tradition, I will be showing you how to create your own terno or butterfly or filipiniana sleeves in two different ways. The terno sleeve is a modern version of the bell-shaped sleeve from the original filipiniana which is called Tragedemistisa. But don't worry, I will cover that in more detail in our next tutorial. Dating back in 1800s, the terno sleeve has a rich history in filipin fashion, becoming a staple garment not only as a national costume but also for fashionable women in my country and around the world. So let's get this tutorial started. To start off your pattern, get a craft paper and fold it in half. Next, square a line and label this line A. From line A, mark down 3 inches or 7.6 cm and square a line and label this line B. From line B, mark down 4.5 inches or 11.4 cm and square a line and label this line C. From line A, mark down 12.68 inches or 32 cm and square a line and label this line D. From the fold line, mark out 4.5 inches or 11.4 cm. Square a line and label this E. From line E, mark out 3 inches or 7.6 cm, same as line A to B. And square a line and label this F. And from line F, mark out 2.4 inches or 5.6 cm and square a line and label this G. From G, mark down 10.68 inches or 27 cm and label this H. Label this line I and label this line J. From I, draw an arc shape going to B like this one. From the arc shape, mark out 3 inches or 7.6 cm. Next, connect the dotted lines to complete the shape. Next, from J to H, draw a J-shape curved line like this one. At the first arc, from B, mark out 6.8 inch or 3 cm. From this mark, get the measurement until I and record. Divide this measurement by 7 and record. For me, I got 1 inch or 2.5 cm. And I'll use this 1 inch measurement for the pleat distance. Mark this measurement from the mark at B and continue until I. Next, square diagonal lines from the pleat marks and make C the anchor point. These diagonal lines represent the pleat lines. In total, we got 7 x 2 so that's 14. First line, create a V-dart with 1 inch or 2.5 cm opening. From 2nd to 6th line, create V-shape darts with an opening of 1 to 8 inches or 3.2 cm. And lastly, the 7th line and the last line is the same dart opening with the first line 1 inch or 2.5 cm. By the way, all darts should end at the first arc shape or toits of an inch or 0.6 cm from arc shape. Next, trace all of the darts using the tracing wheel. Trace the arc shape as well. Next, cut the pattern out from your paper and establish the tree's lines and center line. And these are the pleats or folding directions for the turno sleeve. I will fold the pleats to test it out. I will fold these parts and continue unfolding the pleats here at the crown. And these are the pleats or folds. And lastly, I will attach the underarm seam with the tape so we can test this out. Voila! So this is the mock-up for the first method. As you can see, a turno sleeve or a butterfly sleeve is sharp at the crown and consists of 14 to 16 pleats or darts. Now let's move on to the second method. For the second method, first we need to get our armhole measurement. Example measurement that I got is from my dress form and it is 16 inches or 40 cm. So I will divide 16 by 4. That's equals to 4 inches or 10 cm. I will use this measurement to draft an oval shape template for my armhole for the turno sleeve. To create an oval shape, get a piece of paper. Fold this paper twice. At the angle, first mark out 2 inches or 5 cm. And mark out 2.75 inches or 7 cm. Connect both marks, creating a curved line for the oval shape. By the way, check the measurement of this curved line to see if it's the same measurement with your armhole calculations that we did before. If the measurement is correct, cut the pattern from the paper. And establish the lines. Label the upper and lower sections. Fold again as we will only use the other half. Next, prepare your craft paper for the pattern drafting and fold it in half. Get your armhole template and place on the fold and trace. By the way, mark the halfway as well. From the halfway mark, square a horizontal line. And label the upper and lower sections. From the upper section, mark out 3 inch or 7.6 cm. From the fold line, mark in the half of the frame. Connect the dotted lines to complete the shape. From the arc shape, mark down 10 for 8 inches or 26.6 cm. From this mark, square a horizontal line for the hem. From the arc shape, mark out another 3 inches or 7.6 cm. And connect the dotted lines to complete the shape. From the second arc at the halfway, use the lower part of your template to shape the underarm. And trace the template. And from the mark, square a line hitting the hemline. From the fold line, mark out 6.8 inch or 2 cm. From this mark, get the measurement until the halfway line. For me, I got 8 inches or 20 cm. And I will divide this by 7 and I got 1.18 inches. And next, from the mark at fold line, I will mark in the pleat marks. I will use 1.18 inches for the pleat distance. By the way, use your own measurements for this one. Make the upper section your anchor point to draw the pleat lines. Same as the first method. These are the pleat lines and I've already established the darts. Dart 1 and Dart 7 has the same opening which is 1 inch. And 1.48 inches or 3.8 cm for the rest of the darts. The darts should end exactly at the first arc shape or 2.8 inch or 0.6 cm from the arc. And trace the darts, the first arc shape, and the arm hole. And cut off the pattern from your paper. And establish the darts and center line. And these are the pleating or folding directions for the turno sleeve for the second method. First, I will fold to face both underarm seams and tape it in place if you desire. And fold the pleats or darts accordingly. Match the arm holes to evaluate the pleats. Unlike the first method, the second method should lay flat. By the way, a quick tip. If this happens to your pattern and there's an excess, mark this excess and get the measurement and record. And distribute this excess to the rest of your pleats or darts. Evalas, so this is the mock-up of the second method. The second method lays flat and as you can see, the extension at the crown is closer to the neck. And the pleats made the extension even more higher compared to the first method. Here is the first method. And this is the second method. By the way, guys, comment down below which method of turno sleeve pattern you prefer. For me, I prefer the first method but the second method is perfect because the pattern comes from the exact arm hole measurement contrary to the first method where you have to grade the pattern and this pattern only fits sizes small to medium. Anyway, guys, I hope this tutorial gave you enough tips on how to create your own turno or butterfly or Philippine Hannah's sleeve. If you have any questions, do not hesitate to comment down below and I'll make it sure to answer your questions as quickly as possible. And if you are not subscribed yet to my YouTube channel Lamo the Least, make it sure to hit that subscribe button and if you like this video, give it a huge thumbs up and share this video to your friends and I will see you guys again on the next tutorial. Apyento!