 Hey everybody welcome back. We're behind the NEC XM2960 CRT monitor and today we're going to start servicing the circuit boards. I'm really excited to get in here and especially clean a lot of this because it's pretty nasty. We're going to first start with our PWC4131A and that is our deflection board. We'll get it out take a look at it get it cleaned up and then we will probably replace all the electrolytic capacitors on this board just because there's a lot of heat generated up near this board and so it's probably a good time to service those. So that's what we're going to start on this board we're going to go ahead now and all we need is a Phillips head screwdriver and we could get rid of these five screws and then disconnect some of the connections inside here and we'll be able to just remove this board. Now I've removed the screws and we're going to disconnect some of these cables from the board over here on the back side starting up top and the best thing to do is just wiggle these a little bit back and forth and then pull them back slowly they should come out. There's the top one and there's one in the middle and there's a couple at the bottom but I think we can probably move the board out maybe before we get them out I'm not entirely sure. Let's hope so. A little stress at the bottom of the circuit board so I don't really like that design but we got it out. There's kind of a mini flyback there too that's interesting so definitely a deflection board. Yeah we've got a really dirty board here. There's a lot of dust built up especially on the back of the heat sink right here where we've got all these transistors and other ICs probably like our hot and horizontal and vertical control or deflection will be run through some of those. This is a nice design though because the high heat areas which would be these these transformers this flyback may generate some heat probably not a whole lot transformer again and the heat sink it's all built where it's next to each other and then you got your capacitors up on this end of the board where the lower heat and some of them are over here towards the higher heated end so those would be the first to probably fail. We're going to clean this now and then build the cap kit and probably replace these caps and at the same time we'll check out the solder integrity on the back of the board especially on some of these high heat ICs and it said all these other components over this area just so nasty. That's why you have to clean these things look at this board's been cleaned it's now it's much nicer now you can actually see everything on here and as I said earlier we've really only have we really only have capacitors in this area down in this area and then we've got some up here which are in the high heat area both these over here next to these resistors so we'll change these out they're just pretty standard capacitors 105 degrees celsius i'll include a list for this board down below that's pretty much it if we look at the back side of the board for a second it doesn't appear to be damaged or anything in any way so that's always a good sign it's going to be easy to work on lots of space on this board and there's not components on each side of it so that's a huge advantage for us when we're trying to service it just not having those extra components on the backside of the board like a lot of the pvms will have so this should be a piece of cake compared to some of those pvm boards all right i've gone ahead and i've mapped out all the capacitors that i need to change for this particular circuit board and i think it's called the power board for deflection to be specific on it and so here's the actual kit it's only 11 electrolytic capacitors so what i'm going to do now is i'm going to use my hacko fr 301 and we're going to remove all 11 of these capacitors and then i'll triple check to make sure that again my cap list is right i'll go to my back stock of capacitors i'll get 11 fresh ones and then we'll install those and we'll reinsert this board and do a quick test before we move on to servicing one of the other boards in here this is uh one of my favorite tools the hacko fr 301 now while i remove these capacitors i will keep them all just in case i want to go back and either test them or if there's an issue with a replacement capacitor i put in there i want to make sure and save them just in case there's some reason again to go back and analyze those caps further after we get them all out of here well i've got my tools and my replacement capacitors here and now i'm ready to go in and install the new cap kit on this board so we will show you some pictures of it but it has been cleaned up where all the old capacitors were and it's just ready for the new capacitors to be inserted and then we'll use our hacko FX 888D to install the capacitors along with SRA rosin paste flux here and then i do use rosin core alpha fry high quality solder and then as i go along i will be cleaning with just some alcohol prep pads once i get a spot done so i'm going to go ahead now and install all these capacitors all right so i've just finished up recapping this board again 11 fresh capacitors on here i will show you a closer up image of some of the cap work and what it looks like now and it's been thoroughly cleaned and triple checked i've checked my list the last thing i checked was i used my multimeter right here and this is just a standard nothing special multimeter it allows for continuity check so i checked the integrity of all the solder points where i had installed the new capacitors to make sure that the continuity flew floated each point and it did and the last thing i want to do before i move on to the next board is i'm going to hook this back up into the chat or the monitor frame here just the way it goes like that and there's only a couple spots to hook up but we'll hook it up and we will put the screws back in and then we'll turn around and we'll run a quick test to make sure it powers on and that there's no issues with what we've done to this point so let's go ahead now and get this reconnected and then we will reinstall our board and run some tests so that hopefully everything went good on this board rebuild all right guys we're back here i've got the board set in and it's being held in by most of the screws it's all connected properly inside here and we're ready to run a test now make sure the board was serviced fine and just for the test i've got a super nintendo set up and then i'm going to be using simply s video which you can see is plugged into the s video input number one and let's go ahead and try to turn it on i have plugged the power cord in i hear a click right there and it's already set on video one and it seems to be looking good so let's give it a second make sure nothing changes on there it looks pretty good let's pull up a game yep it's working good so this is probably the smartest and safest way to work through these boards just go one at a time that way if something were wrong we could easily tell that which board had our problem man it looks so good so that's one board down and obviously we've got quite a few more back here to work on so that's definitely where we'll be going from here is some more board work and cleaning this thing up and then we'll finally get to adjust it but it's already looking better i could tell from just that one deflection board cap kit this is going to turn out really nice thanks for watching guys we'll see you next time with some more retro content Kirby