 Noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo-noo, noo-noo-noo-noo. Okay, headers, we've got headers. We've got headers. We've got sockets. We've got stackies. We've got skinnies. Okay, so yeah, we've got a plethora of Pico headers. Basically, they're one-pin wide, 20-pin long headers of a variety of different sizes. So you've got your Pico, your Pico W. Actually, can you go back one? Yeah, so yeah, if you go to W and chances are you either got the header, the one with the header like this, where the headers are plugged in already and soldered, or you solder them in yourself, but maybe you want to plug it into something and remove it, or maybe you want to have the stack with stuff. So we have a couple different options. So let me grab them because I'll show it on the overhead. Okay, so first up, we have the standard. This is actually good. We have the standard, you know, female socket headers. Let me focus a look. These are their standard eight and a half millimeter high ones. You've got your standard, hold on, I've got two deep Pico, I'll try this. Okay, you've got your standard eight and a half point five millimeter long plug male headers. These fit in exactly, they're like exactly the same height. So you want to plug this in and you're like, I want to be able to remove this later. You were like me and you have to remove this multiple times so they all got bent, but now they plug in. Here you go. So you've got a little bit of height here. You got like a 10 millimeters total height basically because you've got eight and a half millimeters of this, plus like the two millimeters of the spacer. So, you know, it's not bad. You can fit some inside of there if you want. Let's see, more focusing. You know, you can stick a battery down there. You can stick some circuitry in there. Cool. But then you're like, no, I want slim style. So we also have the skinny headers. So these are, you have to get them in a pair. You get the male's shorty headers and the female shorty headers. So you see that they're both much shorter. I think these are five millimeters instead of eight and a half. So you save like, you know, basically half the height. But if you want it to be nice and skinny, you saw these together and you see they're significantly less tall. So you just have to match them up. If you mix and match them, you're not going to be happy because these headers are too long for these sockets. And these sockets, they will work, but like they don't grip as nicely as the long ones. Kind of keep them the same. And then third up, we've got stacking headers. So we love these from Arduino. You know, people like to stack shields. So this is, for example, a proto bell that we designed. And then, you know, you can put that on and then stack a Pico on top. So show you that. So let's say you're like, okay, I want the Pico on top. I want some circuitry in the middle. And then I still want to be able to plug this into a breadboard or you want to be able to grab it with a multi meter scope probe to get the stacking header style. Or you can put the stacking headers onto here and then like, you know, you plug into a breadboard or another design and you can still plug wires into the top. The only reason I wouldn't necessarily recommend putting something on top of this is the boot button isn't, you know, you kind of want to have access to that. And you don't, if you have something covering here, you'd have to reach in and bump it just, you know, a little sad. So you can choose that if you want to solder these in. But these are very common header kits that we've loved in our Arduino and breakout board days. And so just having these ready to go all different sizes for your Pico or Pico W just means it's as we have accessories will be easier to plug it unplug them. Okay. And the star of the show tonight besides you lead our team, our customers, our community and more is you guessed it. It's the Metro mini v2 with stem IQT. So much like the feather ESP 32 v2, this original the original board that Metro mini came with an SCP 2104, which was one thing. And then that kind of got impossible to get. And so we got a bunch of CP 2102s, which required a slight change to the circuit board layout. You have to have two resistors. And one of those things is like once you change a PCB at all, like adding anything or changing any package, you basically might as well redesign the whole thing because you have to get a new stencil. You have to reprogram the pick and place. So you might as well just kind of like make any change. Also things have changed. There's USB C there's stem. So that's why I was like, you know what, if I, you know, if I'm here, you're like, what's your like? Oh, I'm going to throw out one thing from the fridge. So you're cleaning out the freezer. So the whole thing that we done. So we added a stem IQT port so you can plug and play with all of our stem IQT sensors. We upgraded it from a micro USB to a USB type C. So you have reversible cable and also I like these nice big plugs and all that good stuff. It's the same physical size, same pinout, same connections, same mounting holes. But really the big change is changing to USB C. The LEDs got smaller to make room and then adding that stem IQT port at the end. But I think, you know, it was these are big enough changes. And I think there's some people who may, you know, they're like, I designed a case for the micro USB port. So they wanted to stick with the old version. But I thought on the overhead, I would show both really fast. So I've got, this is the new one. And then this is the original. So you see it's the same size. You can see it's like some parts moved around just a little bit to make some space. You know, I basically shoved everything over to the left a teeny bit to make room for this stem IQT port. But also whenever I write drivers, I, you know, always testing it with the Metro Mini. So this is, I kind of designed this for myself. And then on the bottom, just like the V one, in fact, this V one is changed. There's a little jumper that lets you change it from five volt IO to three volt IO. And this is actually important to note because there's a little warning here. The, the at mega 328 here is running at five volts normally. And so this port is five volt power and five volt logic, which will work great with all of our stem IQT boards because they all have regulators on them. This is a three volt regulator and level shifters. And this one, this one doesn't because this is a three or five volt device. But all of our stem IQT boards are five volt or three volt friendly because we expect that you'll plug them in to three volt devices like a QT pie or, you know, Raspberry Pi or you might plug them into an Arduino Uno or an at mega 328 running at five volts. And if you want to use this with other boards that have a JSTSH connector but are like quick compatible, that's a three volt power and logic. You'll want to change this from five volts, cut the jumper and solder it to make it three volt compatible. That way you get three volt power and three volt logic. But by default, it's going to be five volts. So just that's the only thing you have to watch out for, but it's not a big deal if you want to connect to three volt logic stuff. Just cut and solder the jumper like I did here. It takes you one second. And then now you're running it three volts power and logic. Everything is basically the same except just a lower voltage. Technically it's overclocking a little bit, but really don't tell anybody works fine. Okay. And that's two products.