 a true freezer here. The complaint is that when it kicks on that it makes a funny noise. So check the coil and nothing's froze up inside there. Backside's all clean. The drain's looking good. The fan's not hidden. They said it's mainly when it kicks on. So we'll let it down here. So we're checking this area here to see if there's anything going on down there. What it is, I turned it down then we turned it on. It looks like the evaporator has been changed. At least the capillary tube has been changed because they ran it on the outside because a lot of times you can't get it in the inside. Got some good old frost back going back here. Looks like the compressor's been changed. I'm thinking either it's fled back or the compressor's just starting to go out again. Looks like a 14 compressor. A little warm on top, warm on bottom. No taps on the high side to check the pressures at all. So you only see half the picture of what's going on. We're going to go ahead and valve on here and see whether it's pumped down. These don't have a CPR valve on them. Must be designed to take the brunt force. Connections all seem tight. I mean it's holding, but I think it's fled back because once it clears out it stops and doesn't do it anymore. But man it really seems like it's going slow. But I mean the valves are at least holding. You could add a CPR valve to it and that would help keep the suction from going too high. Well what we can do is we can check the amp draw and see what our amp draw is when it kicks on. The Decumse app is not as good as the Copeland. They don't have a scan feature in here so you can scan it like Copeland does which kind of sucks. So you've got to write it in yourself. So you've got A, J, lock rotor amps 68.4 which is a 68 there. Start windings 3.02 ohms, runs 0.48, start capacitor is a 146, run, relay, overload, half kit, rated load amp 7.9. It doesn't really give you all of the data on the amperage quite as detailed as what the Copeland does. Clamp right onto our common here because you don't want to measure your fans which hopefully we don't shorten it now when we do this. That way it's there on this compressor and we don't have to look it up again. Then we've got ourselves a flood back situation here which also could be why we're not pulling down very good. We could cheat and restrict that flow a little bit. See how it does. There's closed. There's a few turns back. This is not very scientific here. There's not a whole lot else you can do. If it does freeze product, now they did say the product wasn't freezing very well, then you come back to the situation of do you say it's time to replace it because even though it's in an excellent shape, it's just getting older. So you know, is the evaporator been replaced yet? You don't know. So it may have been, may not have been. How long ago was that? Was it just the compressors changed? They changed the capillary tube? Hard to say. Normally you wouldn't do a short cycle like this, but I think we can. That would clamp down on that to regulate it. May have to call true and check with them to see if that's the right compressor. All right, just spoke with the factory. This is a September 23rd, 96 ship tape on this. This is 23 years old. The compressor is identical to the one that was originally in there. Dryer says and the compressor says 2014. So I'd say, you know, it was replaced maybe five years ago, but our section pressure should be somewhere around 20 or 12 to 14 at zero degree box and head should be somewhere between 215 and 240. I don't usually go with just pressures, but in this case, you know, we need to look at what's going on and it's running. I think I was up at 25. Now green it, our box is not at temperature either. I have no high side tap. So I'm going to tap that thing and see if we can find out what that is. If it's high too, then we may have an issue with it being overcharged. At this point, why did it do it up till now? So let's do that to find out. I'm going to use this just for tapping purposes right now. And I'll take it back off to use them on my R290 units. And then I, like I said, I usually change them out afterwards. I can always drill this. It's a lot of a tap into it. Look at my temperature gauges. So we're running about 7.7 on our sub-cooling. Superheat's 53 and it's adjusting. So we're not extreme in one way or the other. The pressures are coming down some. I'm going to lean towards the compressors starting to go out. They said from the factory this does not come with a CPR valve. So far my pressures are pretty close to what they're saying. Our superheat sub-cooling seemed to be fairly accurate. We're not at box temperature yet. The pressures dropped quite a bit since the beginning. Suctions within four pounds, what they were saying. I must say we're charged correctly and then our compressors just starting to age prematurely. Decided to braze in a permanent refrigerant stem on it. We're going to pull it back on it. We went ahead and recovered the refrigerant. We're going to pull it back on it. We're going to recharge the factory spec. The refrigerant seemed to be fine. Either way I wanted to remove that tap. I'm not a fan of those at all. Yes, I'm doing it the way that I say never to do it, which is a slow way, but it's a small system. So anyhow, we're going to pull this thing down. We're going to recharge it. That way we can eliminate possibly any contaminants in the refrigerant. Maybe possibly any mixture of something else. I want to spend a little time to make certain that it's not something dumb that I can prevent them spending the money on a new compressor if that's the way they choose to go. I want to be 100 percent certain before I push them down that road. We're charging her through the high side there. It's pulling back through the soloside. It kind of tells us there's no restrictions, which we already know that, but just good practice. When I get done, I will valve it off at the valve right there. I'll suck the refrigerant back in to the unit while it's running so that you're not making up for these long hoses that normally we would not recommend. Go ahead and pick it on and see what kind of noises it makes with it even being a little bit under. Our pressures are pretty well equalized, about 50 and 87. It's just got issues, so we're going to get this last bit here pulled into the system. So we're going to go ahead and shut that off, dump it back into the system. You can see that added in most four pounds to five pounds of difference on the suction side. To say the least, we're pretty well right back to where we were originally. So the recommendation is going to be either let it go or replace the compressor. At this point, we know what the pressures are. We know that it's charged right. If they choose to do that, then we'll go ahead and get the filter dryer replaced and everything else. Get the unit cleaned up completely and kind of go from there. Right now, I'm just going to go ahead and brush that off and get that cleaned up, and that should be about as much as we can do for today. Chose to pump it down one more time, and she's not getting it all the way down to zero. I'm going to say our compressor's a little weak, and that's got something to do with what's going on.