 the TH3D Easy ABL Pro on the Tivo Tarantula Pro. My name's Jim, and this is the Edge of Tech. So like I said, we're gonna take this brand new TH3D Easy ABL Pro, and I love the look of this thing. It is awesome, and not only that, it performs great. And we're gonna drop it on the Tivo Tarantula Pro that I just got built. There'll be an assembly video coming soon. When I did that assembly video, I noticed that it wasn't easy to level the bed because any time I turned these knobs, the screws spun inside of it. With the new Tivo Tarantula Pros, the sticker goes all the way over the bed and those screws on the top are actually covered so you can't hold them. How I had to do that was take a small needle nose pliers, hold the bottom of the screw, and then adjust. That wasn't exactly easy. So I took off the Tivo Tarantula Pro bed mat, and I put the glass I used to use on one of my Ender 3s that has a TH3D Easy mat on it, right on top. The other reason I did this is because my build plate came warped in the center. So this actually helped that out quite a bit. I still can't get it quite dialed in because I have to fiddle with it, and while it's printing, it's very hard to take a needle nose, hold that screw, and adjust those knobs. So we're gonna knock it out. We're gonna put this Easy ABL on here, and we're gonna get that rocking for ya. Let's do it. We're gonna get rocking and rolling, and to do that, we need a few things. Number one, always grab your nerds and eat them right away. Number two, we need some zip ties. This kit came with a little tiny screwdriver, so you can use it inside when we're connecting those wires. We need the mount that we printed from TH3D, a couple of M3 by 10 or 12 bolts, and the Easy ABL itself, and the wiring to give it power on this particular version. You can buy the power that goes right into here and plugs into the wall if you want. You can do that. In this case, it'll power it from the board, right from this wire, and this is everything you need. We're gonna get moving. So the first thing we wanna do is mount our new Easy ABL Pro mount right on the side, and I'm looking at the left side of the hot end here, and you can see these two holes are empty. So what we need to do is take this mount, and if you look at the back, there's some cutouts here, and that will actually sit flush just like this. If you do it correctly, your Easy ABL will sit right down through here, and you'll screw into those two screw holes that are wide open. If you have it upside down, it won't work, and you'll be all angled, and that's not the correct way. So grab your two M3 by 10 or 12 bolts, and you can actually put them in. Grab your Allen wrench, or in my case, I use an Allen driver here. I like to get both in before I tighten them, but we're gonna put them both in and then just get them barely to snug. You do not wanna over tighten these for a couple reasons. Number one, you're actually screwing into this, and then there's a fan behind here. Number two, you don't wanna break your mount. So you just wanna tighten them up just so they're in. You don't have to over tighten them. They won't actually grip all the way in because they're just going through the back of a fan so you can actually just keep spinning them. Just snug is perfect because that's not gonna go anywhere. The next thing you wanna do is grab your sensor and take off the bottom nut. Just remember that on the new EZ-ABL Pros, your screw is right here to calibrate your sensor. So on the old ones, it was that silver screw on the top. On the new ones, it's in the side. So remember that when you're putting these in because you're gonna need to use that orientation however you wanna see fit. In my case, you don't wanna be against this extrusion. So I'm actually gonna go sideways instead of forwards. So I'm gonna leave it like that. But it's totally up to you however you wanna do it. You could actually get it set how you like it and then loosen it a little bit and turn it if you really wanted to to get rid of that screw. We're actually gonna be dialing this thing in in a little while once we get it all hooked up. I'm just gonna loosen it up so I see it's semi-close to the hot end here and then I'm gonna put this on. But I'm not gonna do it all the way because there's no need to tighten this yet. So the next thing we're gonna do is actually get this locked into where we want it. Remember I left this nut a little bit loose there so we can adjust it up and down. Get your wrench or one that came with a printer and it should be about two millimeters thick. We're gonna lay it underneath here and then from the back, we're gonna roll down slowly. Okay, so I switched camera angle so we could see this a lot better. This is the wrench I talked about. This is your sensor and over here is your nozzle. And what we're gonna do is slowly lower the Z until the nozzle just touches the bed. Remember I left the nut over here real loose so there's a lot of play. There's a lot of play up in this sensor. See that? So what's gonna happen is the sensor will adjust itself when we get close. But you wanna make sure you leave this nut pretty loose so it can slide up and down. Now what you wanna do is take and lower it very slowly with your Z-Coupler just until the nozzle hits the bed. So that should be about two millimeters away. Now that we have it about two millimeters away, I'm just gonna tighten down this top nut just till it hits. You don't wanna go too far cause you'll raise it just till it touches here. Then what you wanna do is tighten up the bottom one till it's tight. My fingers were in the way but I tightened up this bottom one just till it gets tight. Now what we're gonna do is take off this tie wrap and unravel the cord that came with it. Pull it out, unravel it, and push it through the back of the extrusion like this just how your other cables are round. So I flipped the printer over and I'm looking at the board here. What we need to do is wire in our new EZABL board and we need to find this power in this ground and it goes way up into here. The thing is with the mount that the board is on and the frames here we can't actually get to that without taking the board off. So what we're gonna have to do is remove the board quick and there's four screws. There's one here, one there, one there, and one in here. So I got the four screws out and now I kinda got the board out very carefully. So what I found out is if you look at here and you take these two last plugs out and you pull those out we can actually get to the board a little easier. All right so what I did was I took the white power cable that came with the kit here and I stripped back some of the insulation and I stripped off the positive and the negative or the red and the black. And we're gonna use this to plug into the board here. Now take a small screwdriver that'll fit in here and just loosen the positive here. So I'm gonna hold the board so we don't twist or break anything. Carefully I can pull that out. These have to go in in the same spots. So what I did was I twisted the ends and I'm gonna insert it in here and then insert my positive back in there. But the catch is you cannot have any wire hanging out of that port. So what you wanna do is put your red in here and then take your positive here and get that down in there too. And this can be a little bit tricky because I didn't pull this board all the way out. I can go a little bit further as you can see here but we do have to make sure that none of that wire from the new wire is sticking out because if it is, it has a potential to cause issues where if it grounds or hits anything else. So I got it in there. I'm gonna tighten it in like this, as you can see. And I'm gonna do the same thing for the black wire here on the end. And you do not wanna over tighten those but you do wanna make sure that they're good and tight and these wires aren't gonna come out. The next thing I'm gonna do is push this board back into its place carefully and get it screwed back into the mount. Remember there's four screws, one, two, three, four and we'll push those in now. Once I got those screws back in, I didn't forget to put the two cables we pulled out here back in as well. I didn't wanna miss that. So make sure you put those back in and put them in the same slot you pulled them out of. Next, with the machine still on its side, we wanna take off our ZN stop. So grab your Allen wrench or your Allen bit that fits and just remove the N stop at this time. Grab the new board and just take the cover off carefully. It'll pull off just like this. I noticed that the bolt and the T nuts are too big to go through the slots that THRD pre-drills in here. So you can either drill one of these out larger to fit the bolt or you can get some different T nuts and some M3 I believe or maybe M4 and get those in there. But I'm actually gonna put mine right here. Now I noticed when I go up next to the machine, the legs are actually taller than the control box so it can sit underneath just fine. In my case, I'm probably gonna zip tight for now until I get different T nuts and then I'll put it on there or I'll just drill out one of these and then I'll actually screw it down that way. All right, so the next thing we need to do is actually remove one of these wires because it sends five volts back and we don't want that to happen on the new EZ-ABL board. So if you see these three wires here, there's one with X's, there's one with stripes or lines here and there's the last one up here has words on it. And in my case, it's the one that the Z label is around but we need to cut that out. We're not gonna actually use that wire. If you ever need to put your end stop back, it will work without this wire too. So there's many different ways to get this wire out. In my case, I know it's the one with the Z label on it. So I'm gonna use a little pin. I'm actually gonna push down here and that should allow the cable to actually pull out of the connector. I'm gonna do that on both sides. So it'll be the top one here. I'm gonna push down, pull out just like this and it'll come loose. Then take it and just peel that wire right off and that'll come off. Now, like we talked about, that'll leave us and I'll put it there so you can see a little better with the one with the dashes and one with the X's and that's the two wires you need to keep when you put these back. Now, if we're looking at the EZ-ABL board here, it gets plugged in right to the white like this. Next, grab the wire that came from the EZ-ABL itself and that actually goes in the end right up here and that just pushes in. That's it. Now, what we wanna do next is take our power wire that we created and we're gonna cut, I'm actually gonna shorten it because it doesn't need to be that long just so it's about right here. I'm gonna strip the positive and the negative and it's gonna go in this side. So now what I did is for the sake of the video, I just zip-tied the control box underneath here to the bottom of that extrusion and I stripped off the power here, the ground and the positive here or the black and the red and we need to actually put that into the control box. Get the baby screwdriver that came with the kit and loosen these two right here. Take your black and your red and they go in just like that. So black on top, red on the bottom. Once you get them in and you get them pushed in there, you'll tighten them down with these two screws here. So now what we have is the red here and the black up here. So the red's on the outside of the board, black's on the inside of the board and if you look down on the board, it actually says plus and minus. We got those pushed in and we got them tight and I actually might shorten these and bring it to wire closer, but for now we're okay. I just want to point out this switch right here that I'm my touching here. This is actually gonna flip your Z. So in a little bit, when we test this, when it's coming down, if the Z needs to be switched, we'll actually just flip that little switch in here and that's all we have to do. We actually don't have to rewire anything on the new easy ABL Pro Boards. So that's pretty cool. I'm gonna leave the cover off for now until we test it and we'll go from there. I did say there was room underneath and if you have some T-nuts, it'll sit really nicely but I just want to show you, there's plenty of room under here to actually put that under that extrusion and it will actually hide underneath there pretty good if it wasn't zip tied like this and I think that's a really cool placed amount and on this, it's out of the way, it's not seen much and it's actually highly functional there. Next, what we want to do is clean up our wiring and we got tons of zip ties from TH3D in this kit and we're gonna use a lot of those. So first, what we need to do is create our loop. You always gotta have a loop when you're using the easy ABL because you don't want tension on this right here. So you create your loop and the next thing I'll do is zip tie all around here. So I did not cut the zip ties yet because I wanted to show you what I did with them. I did not go inside of the sheath because I think that the connector on the end is too big. So what I did was I just went around just like it is now. I added one here, one there, one here, one here, which I probably didn't need to do because there's one right here on this extruder bracket and I did one here and then I did one here but the trick is on this one, I actually looped and you can see it right here. I looped the rest at the bottom and I did it there so it can still move and it still has plenty of room on this side when it gets mounted. But this'll be able to go up all the way and down all the way and I did test that. You wanna make sure you test that before you get all your zip ties on. At this point, I'll just take my snips, I'll come through, snip all of the zip ties, that way it looks nicer. I really appreciate that they give us so many zip ties because it makes it so much easier on cleanup. Now this one at the bottom, I did not go too tight on just in case the cables in there need to travel. So just be careful with this one down here. But other than that, it's nice and clean, everything looks good. Now what we do is take the blue USB cable that came with the printer and we need to load the new TH3D firmware on this printer. So we're gonna go in, we're going to push that into that port right here. And this other side is going into the computer where we're gonna do the firmware part now. Download the latest TH3D firmware and then you wanna go down here to if you're using Windows and use this openfirmwarewindows.bat. That'll launch everything you need to do. If you have anything that you need to say okay to just allow the access and that brings you to the full TH3D firmware package inside the Adreno. So what you wanna do from here is go to tools, check your board and it's gonna be the Adreno Mega 2560 board that's already on here. Then you wanna make sure you're on the right comport and for me that's number five. Years might be different. So you wanna check that if you need to through the device manager and go to ports and check that out. In my case it's number five. Then we wanna go to configuration.h and this is where everything, all the magic happens, right? So we're gonna scroll down until we find TiVo and I believe that's gonna be towards the bottom. So I'm just looking here. Oh, I found it right here by default. In this firmware it's on line 481 it starts but it could be different on the new firmwares going forward. So what we wanna do is here's the Tarantula Pro. We want to uncomment or comment out that and it turns green. You can tell it works if it turns green and you wanna come down and you want to take this and comment that out and this just defines the Tarantula Pro OEM mount for the easy ABL mount and that's what we need. So if you want the Tarantula boot screen you can actually go through right here and turn that back on. I don't mind the TH3D one so I'm gonna keep that on there. You can actually slow down the hotend fan and control box fan here if you want to. That'll quiet it down a little bit. I might play with that later but I don't need to do that right now and that's pretty much all we need to do as far as the Tarantula Pro goes right here. At this point you're done. All you have to do is upload this and flash it to the board and to do that you just have to go up here and you have to hit upload. And this is gonna take a little bit. It'll go through, it's gonna verify everything, it's gonna compile the sketch and then you'll be good to go. All right, when this is complete it'll say writing 100%. It'll tell you how many bytes of flash was written and that it's done. So you know it's good when you get to this screen here. Now I raised this up a little bit just to show you a lot of times it's down here but I just wanted to show you at the very end it'll say thank you and you're done. You just unplug the printer and we'll move to the next step. So I plugged it in. I'm gonna flip the switch on and just watch and make sure it boots up to the TH3D splash screen along with what firmware version and TH3Dstudio.com. As you can see it looks like it booted up just fine and the next thing we need to do is test our ZN stop. All right, so the next thing we wanna do is just verify that the ABL is actually working. If I touch it here you can see this light going from green to red but to really test it and make sure that we have that switch that we talked about earlier in the right direction we're gonna hit the button, go down to prepare, go down to auto home and hit the button. Now it's gonna home both axis is the Y and the X and then it'll come back to the center and start lowering for Z. Now put your finger under here twice and if it stops like that you're good. If it does not stop like that you need to flip that little switch underneath like we talked about before where we plugged it in there's that little dip switch just flip that thing over and then test this again. So now what we wanna do is disable your steppers by clicking the button, going to prepare, scrolling down to disable steppers. Then we're gonna take our wrench and we're gonna put it right here this time under the nozzle. Slowly lower your X gantry down just so that nozzle touches the wrench. Now the nozzle is two millimeters off the bed. Then we're gonna take our little screwdriver and we're gonna just adjust this in and dial it in. So you see how it's currently green? What we need to do is adjust this so the end stop trips and it'll turn red on this side. So we go forward and just until it turns red and sometimes it can be a lot of turns. So don't get discouraged if it's not turning red yet just keep screwing it clockwise until you see that light turned red right there. So then you wanna go back out just little bit by little bit until it's green and there we go, so now we're green and then just slightly until it goes red again, perfect. Now that actually will tell it to stop two millimeters above the bed now. So now what you do is raise up your X gantry a little bit. We're gonna click the button, we're gonna go to auto home again and we're just gonna make sure that everything home's okay. What you wanna do on this case is you wanna keep your hand back here on this power button just in case it doesn't stop. It should but you never know. So I'm gonna keep my hand back here on the power button. I'm gonna let it home and when it comes down it should home two millimeters above the bed, perfect. So at this point we're actually ready to do a test print. We just need to load some filament in and get it ready. I think I'm gonna run a M48 test. We have not printed with this or anything like that but first I'm gonna preheat to PLA temperatures. So I got heated up to 20 on the nozzle and 60 on the bed. Let's do an M48 test. So what an M48 test does is it actually measures the accuracy of our sensor. So we're gonna hit the button, scroll to prepare, hit the button again, scroll down to M48 test and hit the button. It's gonna home all the accesses and then it's gonna go to the center where it probes several times up and down to test the accuracy of that probe. Notice it's stopping each time where we calibrated it earlier and it's gonna do this quite a lot of times here and it takes about a minute to complete. As you can see, we got a result of .001581. That is really, really good. That tells me we built this machine very good. Our excantria is straight and that's what you want. Just to throw it in there, this is all ready to go. We saw it do the M48 test. We saw the result that it could get and it was great. Anything .00 and then any numbers, that's a very, very good result. Now I did this twice. The first one I got .0015. The second time .0013. Very, very good results. Now I put a memory card in. Don't forget you're gonna need to change your starting G code. You'll have to put a G29 right after your G28. I'm gonna go ahead and print from SD card. We should see it auto-home and then it'll come down, it'll probe and then it should go through the full probing sequence. So this is set up right now to do a nine probe grid. Three across the front, three across the middle and three across the back. So as you can see, we got filament loaded and we got it printing. Now when it starts printing, you'll need to dial in your Z offset and to do that, you'll hit the button twice and like one and then two and it'll go to your Z offset. Then you wanna lower it until you see it printing and get the layer height you want. Another thing I wanna point out. I forgot to put the bottom panel on my easy ABL control board cover. So don't forget to do that at the very end. All it does is slide on, so we're gonna do that. As soon as this is done printing, I'll get that on there but you wanna make sure you get that done before you start printing. I mean, it's probably better that way. So that was the install of the Easy ABL Pro from TH3D on the Tivo Tarantula Pro. It was super easy. If you follow this, it probably will take you 20 minutes, maybe a half hour tops but you'll get it done and it's so awesome now. What I'm gonna do next is add the solid bed mounts and I do have a set of those from TH3D as well but we'll do another video for that. But once I get the solid bed mounts in, I won't have to worry about touching those dials. This thing will be dialed in and ready to go. I think this thing is awesome now. I hope you learned something today and as always, keep printing. Hey everybody, throw a comment below what your favorite part of auto bed leveling is. I'd love to hear it. If you liked the video, give me that thumbs up. Please click that subscribe button right here and that little bell if you wanna be notified next time we go live or put out another great video.