 What's up guys, welcome back to the vlog. Those of you that have signed up for FSC Social, thank you for doing that. If you don't know what that is, that is our app. It's a social app for hairdressers. So go to fscsocial.com and you can download that app. Today's haircut, what we did was we focused on a longer length haircut. What I wanted to do is do something. We did a longer length haircut a while back for fine hair. So today what I did was showed you guys a long layered haircut for really thick dense hair. So here is the end result. You can see all of the layers, all of the movement. We used concave layering in the back. We used round layers in the front to really open up the face. So I think you guys are going to really like this cut. Also you'll be able to use it in the salon right away. So it's a very user friendly technique. So I hope you guys like the cut. Let me know in the comments below if you like it. And here we go. All right. So we're going to start off the haircut on the left hand side. If your guest parts on the opposite side, then you're going to start there and mimic what I'm doing. But you want to start off where your guest parts their hair. That's the key thing in this haircut. Now if you have trouble getting through long hair, this is our Ergo polishing paddle brush. The cool thing about it, you can see through the teeth when you hold it vertically. And then when you hold it horizontally, the teeth are a little more scattered. What that does is when you're holding the brush vertically, it's going to have wider teeth so it's easier to detangle the hair. And then you can switch it to a more of a horizontal hold of the brush. That's going to give you more tension and help you polish out the hair. So there's two uses for one brush. You want to make sure you're using it the right way because if the hair is kind of tangled up and you hold the brush horizontally, you might get the brush stuck in the hair. It's going to do a lot more pulling. That's just a cool little tip for you guys. Check your paddle brush to see if it's like that. If not, if you're looking for a new paddle brush, we definitely have that one on free salon education. So we're going to start by parting the hair. We have the part on the left hand side. Then what I did was I took from mid crown over to the temple area and sectioned off an asymmetrical triangle on the heavy side of the head. Now I create another triangle from mid crown down to behind the ear and I do the same thing on the opposite side. We're going to start by cutting a base line to start the structure of the haircut. So what I want to do is create a nice solid line to use as my beginning guideline and to also clean up the bottom of the hair before I started. We're going to be going through with concave layering. What that's going to do is help collapse the head shape. We're going to work with pie shaped sections throughout the back. So everything's going to go to the previous section. We're going to have a traveling guide, which is a little bit harder because any time you're moving your guide throughout the haircut, it just it's harder to stay consistent. So just make sure you're really focused on every move that you make is is happening the same exact way. And you have a really strong guideline coming through in the haircut. So we're working concave in the back or collapsing the shape or removing a maximum amount of weight in the back, which is why this haircut is so great for high density hair. So all I'm doing is taking those pie shaped sections, bringing the hair to the previous, looking for my strong guide in the back and how I started the haircut. I took a vertical section and I just grabbed my guide from the very bottom. So I lifted the hair, found that guide. And I think what a lot of people do when they're cutting concave in the back, especially working around this way is they don't follow their guide so much. They just follow the bottom piece of hair. So what happens is you build inconsistency in the shape. What you want to do is cut that first line, that first vertical parting that you take, cut that, base that off of the bottom length, but then as you work through the back of the haircut, use your guide and make sure that you stay with your guide throughout the entire back so that you get a nice structured cut. Just because we're collapsing weight doesn't mean that we don't want structure because when you go through and you blow a dry at the end, what you guys will see, you want that structure to help have a really nice polished finished look. So continuing throughout the back, you can see the head sheets on the side. Those are also going to be available. I'll be posting those up on FSC social app so you can download them, save them to your phone. If you want to kind of refer back to the head sheets, I'm trying to do that with all of these cuts so that you guys can download them and have them with you even if you can't watch the video throughout the day. So one thing I want you to take notice of is the body position that I'm in. So I'm standing on the right hand side of the guest. Key thing to make sure when you're cutting concave so that your elbow doesn't get in the way, your elbow should be away from the head. So if your elbow is on top of the head, then you're standing in the wrong position. So just make sure that you shift yourself so that when you shift that elbow up, you can get your elbow right where you want it. I like to keep my elbow closer to my body. I think anytime you lift your elbow too much, you lose that consistency in your line. That's a personal preference. Some people love to kick their elbow up and create a straight line with their hand and their elbow. But for me, I like to just keep my arms as low as possible throughout the haircut to keep that consistency. All right. So now what I'm going to do is go through a let down the sides. I'm going to go through and cut a nice blunt line on the bottom and then check my balance. Now the balance is going to be a little bit off and you need to know that as you're cutting it, because I have an asymmetrical section still sectioned away on the top. So the one side that's not sectioned off is going to be longer in the front than the side that is sectioned off. So that's good. It's a really important thing to remember because a lot of people go in and just start cutting to balance that right away. And you need to know. So what I like to do is check it from the back. If you look at it from the back, you can see the balance to the shape and then you don't go in and cut things that you shouldn't and mess up the entire haircut. So now we're going to work through the side, still creating almost a concave layer. This is pretty much at 100 degrees at this point. So we're definitely removing a ton of weight from the side of the head, creating those seamless layers. Anything above 90 degrees is going to be seamless. Not really going to see any weight lines in the haircut. So I wanted to have that nice and light feel on the weaker side of the haircut, have those nice light layers, but leave a little bit of extra length on the side so that you still keep that density. So we're going to work through everything's coming back to the previous, still a traveling guide in this haircut, still keeping that finger angle the same and working through. You notice right there, I took up too much hair, couldn't see the guide. So I make my adjustment and I re comb it. You want to make sure as you're working through a haircut, if you ever lose your guide, if you're talking too much or whatever you're doing, you lose that guide, then just re comb, don't cut until you find it because you're just doing yourself harm if you go that route. So we're working through the back now into the other side, same thing. So you can see my elbow is away from the head, working those kind of concave layers in the back and just working my way through it. The big thing that I've changed now is that I'm combing the hair away from my body towards my guide. Talk about it in every haircut. I'm going to talk about it every haircut I ever teach is that you want to comb the new hair towards the guide. So you're not pushing the guide from where it lives. If you move your guide too much, then it diffuses the guide and you can't see it and you end up with the haircut that you didn't want. So just as you're working through, make sure you really focus on your combing. Combing is what makes a professional haircutter more than just the scissor or the cutting or anything like that. You want to make sure that you're combing the right way. So over directing everything to the previous, getting our guide from there, working our way through the side and just finishing up this part. So you can see that layering coming about. Now I comb down the top portion and we're going to work with the round of the head to create these nice soft round layers. I want to keep everything at 90 degrees at this point. So I'm following the head shape. So if you look back at previous haircuts that we've done, this is taking pieces from everything that we do. So when you look at the 90 degree haircut that I did maybe a month ago, this is a piece of that. So following the head shape. So we created concave layers throughout the whole kind of baseline area, everything under the bridal ridge to collapse more of the head shape because this is we're working with a denser, a higher density of hair. So the thicker the hair, the more weight you want to remove. So we remove that from the side. Now I'm going through creating soft layers at 90 degrees, not being as extreme with the layering and just connecting it that way. So it's combining. This is a big thing that I want to really drive home with everyone is that every haircut that you see me doing, you shouldn't be doing them exactly the way that I do it. Every guest's hair is different. Every guest's hair has a different density. Every guest's hair is a different texture and formation. You should not be copying exactly what I'm doing with the haircut. Take each thing and add it to every haircut. So all 50 of these vlog videos that we've done are all different haircuts, but they're done for a purpose. So make sure that you grab pieces from every single one and create your own feel to every haircut that matches your guest. So that is the end of the haircut. We worked our way through still a traveling guide and you can see how that shape of the haircut really falls nice. You could wear this curly, you could wear it straight. It's a great haircut for pretty much medium to high density hair. And now we're going to go through. We got a brocado mousse and I'm going to blow it dry. So I work the product through the ends. It's pretty exciting. We actually have that product available on freeslaw and education now. And I go through with the brush vertically, which we talked about at the beginning to detangle the hair and really work that product through. I want to get the product on every bit of the hair. Now I go through and use my hands to blow dry the hair. There's no reason we're going to go in with a round brush, but there's no reason to use a brush to do the whole entire blow dry when you can get it 90 percent dry and then go through with your brush and finish off the rest. So we're going to be working with our Ergo round brushes. So I love Ergo brushes. We've had them on the site for a while. I don't show off round brushes enough and you guys have been requesting it. So I'm going to go through. I sectioned off the top horseshoe shape with a chopstick and then I just work the outer edges with two round brushes. So I do one round brush, heat it up, work that section, really polish it out and let the brush set and cool in there. And then as soon as I work my next section, I leave the brush in there and then I clip away the previous. So just working those two brushes through. If you want to have 10 brushes, that's cool, too. You could do that, but two brushes kind of working through. And then I use pin curl clips to hold the hair together. Now this is a quick blow dry. This is more of a salon friendly blow dry. Not super polished, but it's definitely I'm creating as much volume as possible and going through there. And just again, it's more of a salon reality kind of thing. So working my way through, switching those brushes off, twisting the hair. So when I take the hair out of the brush, I retwist it up and pin it away with the pin curl clip and just sections it away. Nice. The reason you want to pin it away and let that brush kind of cool in there is because when you heat up the hair, it allows it kind of breaks down the bonds, allows it to get very flexible. And then as it cools, everything hardens back up. So that's how you get that shape to really last all day. So you're going to get more longevity out of your blow dry. And then when you're working through with different working sprays and your hands and all of that, you don't lose the shape of the blow dry. So I'm working my way through the top now. We've worked our way through the sides. Same thing on the top. What I'm doing is working from the part to the heavy side. So I'm working kind of like a diagonal forward section all the way through. Same thing, though, with both brushes. And then when I get to the very front part, then I start brushing everything forward, because if I'm working that brush forward, it's going to give me more volume right in the front of the hair. So this is all about creating those light layers, taking out a lot of density and in a high density head of hair. So you want to have more volume, because what that's going to do is kind of bring those layers to life. So over directing everything the opposite direction that she's going to wear it, finish it up with brocato medium hold hair spray, then take out the pin curl clips. You can work your hands through the hair. You could see how nice the curl is held in there. And then I just kind of finish it up, polish it with a curling iron. It's a large barrel curling iron works really well. So I hope you guys like this cut. Definitely let me know in the comments. Thank you so much for watching. And there you go. All right, guys, like always. If you like this cut, then go on to fsesocial.com and let me know. Also, let me know in the comments what you want to see next. Fueled by your comments in the comment section. I love seeing what you guys thought of the video and what you want to see in upcoming videos. And just love all of your support out there for every video that I create. So thank you guys so much and I'll see you guys on the next video.