 Hey guys Matt Beck from freesaloneducation.com very excited for 2016. We have a lot of education videos coming your way We're gonna kick off the year with a razor cut using one of my favorite tools Donald Scott carving comb So it's gonna be a razor cut. We're gonna go short. We got our mannequin who has a previously cut haircut So she has kind of a graduation more of a triangular feel in the front gets a little bit heavier towards the front We're going to take her hair nice and short. So I'm gonna do a step-by-step haircut Let's break down the sectioning first, then we'll get into the cutting part Sectioning is very simple So we'll get up nice and close here if you look at how we've sectioned it off We start at the bridle ridge work our way back and what I did was when I got to the high point of the head Right here, right? So as it kind of reaches the top point of the head I I went horizontal line across so we're really just sectioning off a nice square Slight rectangular section right in the front So you can look at the fringe area back to the high point of the head Then I took out a little tiny triangle in the back just through the crown So obviously here is our crown area and I just took a triangle to cut that now We're gonna work in a kind of diagonal back section throughout the haircut. So That triangle works really well with it I think it's really important when you're when you're doing a haircut to make sure that your sectioning Works with the partings that you're going for so the triangular section is going to work the hair back And the weight distribution is gonna work really well with that as well So just so we don't lose you guys or bore you Let's get started with the haircut, but that is the basic sectioning for the cut. Here we go All right, so we're gonna start off the haircut we're gonna do partings diagonal back So we're gonna work that right behind the ear and I'm gonna put a clip up in there Then I'm gonna work a diagonal forward section so The reason I'm taking a diagonal back so they don't want to work with all of that hair at the same time I like to break it up So we go diagonal back with the parting and then we take a parting diagonal forward and grab a section right Around the hairline Now you'll notice when I'm combing I'm scooping the hair up The reason I'm doing that is because I want to comb it towards the previously cut hair So I just want to make sure that I'm consistent with that every single time. I'm working with the Donald Scott carving comb I love this tool. It's very versatile. It's got the comb on one end. So it's easy and then The cutting side is on the other so again diagonal back section about two inches up And then I go diagonal forward With my first parting now I combed over top of the first section to gather it into my hand But then you'll see every section after that every parting I take and every section I comb up I comb from the underneath Working that carving comb at about a 45 degree angle. That's gonna give the best cut and Elevation is nice and high Probably about 90 degrees right out from the head And you can see how it gives it a nice flow towards the face That's really the goal with this because we're creating kind of a pixie cut look To the haircut it's a little bit longer. I mean, I don't even know what we're considering a pixie cut at this point But definitely a longer feel on the short hair So diagonal forward you can see I'm scooping the hair up Just speeding the video up very repetitive at this point I'm following the curve of the head and everything's coming straight out towards my body Not straight out from the head because you'll notice As the head kind of curves up. I'm still coming straight back. So the angle Isn't really changing You can see the consistency in that layering what I love about using the carving comb as it gives it more of a jagged edge And now here we're gonna show so 90 degrees straight up from the head Zero degrees coming off of that so I'm a little bit above zero degrees at that top section What that's gonna do is give me a nice graduated feel To the top part of the layer and then as I build it in I'm gonna follow the head shape and create a 90 degrees So I'm building up a little bit of weight towards the top But then collapsing it with the 90-degree layering technique towards the bottom And I think that's a big key point to key thing to point out finishing up right down the center back Same angling So we'll be more at a 45 degree towards the top of the head shape around the top of the crown and then finishing up 90 degrees at The bottom same thing on the opposite side scooping the hair up working from The back of the head to the front with the razor. So you'll see I adjusted that in my hand Keeping consistency just like the other side checking the lengths And then working our way back Diagonal back. I like doing this because it allows me to determine When I start in the front what type of length I want in the front sometimes when you start in the back You get too much length in the front and that's not what we're trying to achieve here So nice soft layers Other key thing on the side of the head is you want to make sure you have a nice Elevation because if you lower your hand too much on the side of the head You're gonna have it too bulky in the end result because you still have that top part of the hair that's got to Come down as well. So Working those sections diagonal forward still and then we move as we get towards the back of the head It'll move a little more vertical, but still keeping a diagonal forward feel Alright, you can see that build up of weight right around the occipital bone area. That's where that weight's gonna sit I'm gonna continue that same feel. So now we grabbed our Mizutani Type Z2 scissor with my favorite scissor to point cut with And the elevation on this is gonna be up to about 90 degrees Towards the end still keeping more of a 45 degree angle So we're softening it, but we're carrying that weight up above to sit right about low crown So where it's gonna be heaviest I'm using point cutting because I don't want it to be too heavy in the back I really want a nice soft choppy feel to this haircut Keeping the diagonal back sectioning and over and no over direction just pulling everything straight out from the head at this point This is that little triangle section that I showed you at the beginning. So it's a very little hair that we're dealing with we're just going through point cutting and softening it on the top So be our last section here So now we're gonna work on the top and what I want to do is I want to create a left side part And have everything kind of move to the right side But what we're gonna do is we're gonna cut it so it's versatile So she could wear it on either side keeping that weight right in that center line So you'll see what I mean in one second. So we're gonna take again diagonal back sectioning and then This is gonna be our guideline. So we're pulling a guide from the previously cut hair And I'm gonna go in still point cutting because again, we're trying to create a Very kind of loose feel no strong lines in the haircut a lot of texture through the top So but I'm cutting that on a diagonal. So the heaviest point is gonna be in the center of the haircut Over directing everything back to that point and that's gonna be our stationary guide So we'll go through point cut that You see my finger angle Everything goes up. So we're basically creating a rooftop on the top of the head And because we're keeping that stationary guide everything's being over directed quite a bit And it's gonna push a lot of that weight to the front of the head which we will kind of address that in the dry cutting portion, but That gives us a lot of hair to work with at the end So you can see same type of finger angle on this side using the guideline from the previously cut section Just over directing it back Like I was saying before I think the the greatest part about cutting the top of a short women's haircut like this is You're creating that weight that weight is sitting right in the center of the head So it makes it versatile and they can flip it back and forth and wear it however They like you could see kind of how it moves around now what I'm gonna do is just take a nice We can call it horizontal. We can call it vertical section. Whatever across the top of the head And I'm gonna point cut even deeper through that creating textures So you'll see my hand kind of sliding up as I work through the haircut I'm gonna do that all the way down the head still over directing everything back I think that that's a key part of this haircut and I think where a lot of people can Make a small mistake is you don't hold the hair when you go through and texturize the same way you did When you cut the shape so If I don't do that if I were to go in and point cut and hold the hair differently It's gonna it's gonna alter the shape of the haircut. So you just got to be really careful When you're going through doing that Again starting deep with that hair with the point cutting and sliding my fingers out to the end There you go. So we got a ricotta Cloud nine blowout serum Throw that in there and then we got our ergo blow dryer, which I'm in love with Super powerful really small compact and with our ergo paddle brush and wrapping that all around Some new products on the shop, which I'm really loving having because they're just really good quality products All right finishing up with the vibra straight Iron curling everything in the opposite direction just a little Bend to it and then I go through with my comb flip it the other way and that gives me my nice flipped polished look Some point cutting through the top add a little more texture and then because we pushed all that weight to the front We use our Mizetani puffins to go in and just slide cut the front and break up that fringe And that is our end result finish it up with just a little bit of brocado hairspray Hey guys, I hope you enjoyed the video here is our end result, which you've already see you've already seen Now I want to go over a couple things that we could alter about this haircut if you wanted to To make it more personalized make it your own you could adjust the fringe or the bang area All you have to do is if you want to cut a little bit shorter Want to keep this side bang feel then all you do is over direct it towards yourself and that would help draw that line But you could cut it shorter around the eye kind of open up the eye in the haircut also in the back The back eye left a little bit longer. I like that kind of Fringier look or the mullet kind of look it's not a mullet, but it's you know, definitely has some length in the back I like that if you don't like that you could cut this definitely shorter and keep the rest of the haircut the same What I would do is just section off the front do the front like we did and then go into the back Separately just to cut it nice and short Another thing I love about this haircut is the all the point cutting on the top that really allows for a lot of texture and movement Within the haircut and creating a lot of volume for your guests. So this is a really fun haircut I've done it hundreds of times in the salon that have and allows a Lot of versatility with your guests and guests seem to love it. So Do the haircut I love to hear your comments below if you have any questions post them also follow us on everything social media free salon education and Subscribe if you haven't subscribed make sure you do that as well because we want to keep you guys up to date with all the videos That we're doing so Thank you guys so much for watching again looking forward to 2016 and a lot more education videos to come Thank you guys for watching. We'll see you on the next video. Thanks