 What's up guys I just finished up the haircut for today's vlog I'm really excited to show it to you guys because what I decided to do today I've been watching your comments throughout this series of videos every day pretty much and I've noticed that there's a lot of requests for more basic haircuts so I know a lot of you guys are students out there and even if you're not a student I think you can take a lot from a basic haircut so what we did today was a classic graduated bob now we're working with horizontal sections throughout this entire haircut so I love that it's a great exercise it allows you to really work on building shape but also works on your elevation because you have to really focus on elevation throughout this whole cut so I hope you guys like it let me know if you want to see more of these basic classic structures and I'll try to break them down the best that I can thank you guys for for always watching these videos and sharing your thoughts in the comments so here we go all right guys so we're gonna start off our sectioning going down the bridle ridge back past mid crown and then down bridle ridge to kind of section off a nice rectangle shape on the top of the head now I want to really break down my thought process on my sectioning because a lot of people have been asking questions about it I feel like my sectioning is very standard but I want to show share with you guys the why behind why I section the hair the way that I do so what I do is I look at every corner of the head and I section that away as a different panel so the top section bridle ridge I look at it as a corner mid crown I look at as a corner so that makes up that top section of the head then I look at the division point of the head the front and the back and I section that off which gives me this little temple area section then I go down center back like you can see there I comb everything over and then if you think about it what would be my next corner would be the occipital bone where the head starts to kind of curve up and away and then down and under towards the nape so section away these two panels occipital bone up to crown and then occipital bone down to nape is my other section so what that's gonna do for me is really just separate each corner so as I work my elevation up the head and I'm working the shape of the haircut I can focus on each corner and how it's gonna shift and how that elevation is gonna change so now I'm gonna start zero degree elevation now I'm doing this with comb tension the reason I use my comb at first is to really just hold the hair in place then I go through and if I don't love the line that it's created then I go through and freehand and cut a little bit more of the line but I use the comb to start the guideline and then decide from there if I want to continue and cut more now I slightly elevate the hair we're gonna start our elevation right in the occipital bone area so I'm working through slight bit of elevation half inch section and just adding a little bit of a bevel to the edge of that the bottom nape area of the haircut so now I'm gonna work horizontal sectioning throughout the rest of the haircut I really wanted to focus on horizontal sectioning because this is a great exercise for your brain to work an entire haircut in one way and then go back and do a haircut the complete opposite way I think you should know both ways of cutting so I didn't want to do a combination cut a vertical and horizontal I wanted to just do the entire cut horizontal so you can really focus on elevation this is cutting horizontally is harder for weight control a lot of people think that this would be a heavier way of cutting it's not necessarily a heavier way of cutting the reason it ends up being heavier is because a lot of people drop their elbow and drop their hand down because it's not as comfortable so just going through working your mind and practicing focusing on your elevation throughout the entire cut is key in this so I'm working through that's a the horizontal line is following parallel to my chest I'm standing straight in the back of the head and working that line straight across so it will build up a little bit of weight towards the corner so it's you could call it a square back I like to call it an even back because the entire thing is even throughout the section so working those horizontal sections you can see my elevation there and you can see the thickness of each parting that I'm taking is only about a half an inch that's really important when you're working horizontally not to take too much hair a lot of people want to take a ton of hair to get a haircut done faster but what they're gonna do if you if I grabbed too much hair at once that's why I'm gonna get that heavy top layer because I would be pulling the hair all the way from the top crown area down and then that elevation would be super low what I'm gonna do throughout this haircut is each section I'm elevating a little bit more so as I elevated a little bit more it's it's making the the the line and the graduation lighter throughout the cut now we're gonna start working in the temple area I'm gonna take again pretty much half inch we're gonna start off this is an inch wide section working that baseline I want to follow right along the chin so I'm just taking horizontal sections slightly elevating it at this point so the first section is straight down with little tension in my fingers and then the all the sections after that are slightly elevated to just lighten up the the section add a little bit of length towards the chin because I want it to follow the jawline and then tuck around the chin we're gonna do the same thing on the opposite side so a little bit of tension in my fingers work that line connected to the back keep working horizontally start to elevate the hair slightly and when you elevate the hair you're over directing the very front part so right at the hairline that's being over directed because the head starts to move away so that's why you get that little bit of longer piece right around the chin all right so as I work my fingers through there you can see that shape kind of coming to life it's looking pretty cool so now I'm gonna take a right-hand side parting comb all the hair down exactly the way that it's going to live as best as I can and when it's wet obviously once we blow it dry we'll really see how it's gonna live in the haircut and just combing elevating it nice and high we'll keep it up pretty much a 45 degree angle throughout the entire thing so you can see right on the side of the head as well nice high elevation that's gonna keep from it being too heavy around the chin line I'd like to take a little bit of weight out of there because then when I go through and do my detailed lines at the end I'm not cutting through so much hair it's not so stacked up so working that 45 degree angle as I work more on the top of the head on this side because the head shape is shifting away you got to realize that right now I'm pretty much holding this hair at a zero degree angle on the top I know that sounds confusing but that's the way that I think about it because straight up from the top of the head to me is 90 degrees so this coming straight out from the head when you're working on the top of the head is more like zero so it's gonna be very heavy so now we're gonna go through we're gonna blow dry the hair really quick doing a flat wrap blow dry to connect the hair to the head shape and that's gonna help us work the hair dry now we're gonna go through with our vibrastrate iron as well iron the hair out and get it ready for dry cutting alright so as we move into the dry cutting portion a question I get asked all the time is what is my favorite scissor for wet cutting and dry cutting the Mizutani DB 20 scissor is my go-to scissor I use it at a five five point seven inch length it's nano powder metal it's a very soft metal it grips the hair like no other scissor out there and you can't get another scissor from any other company made of nano powder metal so this is definitely my my key scissor for every haircut that I do so if you're looking for a new scissor definitely check out freesaloneducation.com because I got a great deal right now on all Mizutani scissors on the website so go check it out so I'm going through adding in the details doing point cutting so I'm point cutting the edges throughout this because I really want to soften the entire top of the haircut and and really clean up all those little hairs that are hanging over the reason they're hanging over is because I did the haircut wet and it wasn't exactly how she's gonna wear it so now I just go through clean it up and we're good to go now this is the most important part of the haircut this is something I'll spend a lot of time on it's detailing the outer perimeter of the cut using the tip of the scissor this is why I like to have a little bit shorter scissor because the tip is a lot stronger and just go through and working that line and what I wanted to do is add my own personal touch to this haircut so I like that kind of buildup of weight behind the ear so I wanted to create that nice little curve area and then follow that along the jawbone and then tuck it around the chin with a little bit of extra length so I go through and I build that line in with the scissor this is what's gonna make your haircut stand out from everybody else in your town so just these little details are what separate a good hairdresser from a great one all right so we're just finishing it up I'm still adding in I'm comb the hair down I want to see how it's falling once I start combing the hair and in that line stays solid in there I know that I have it where I want it and my guests will be able to blow dry their hair and have that same line so just going in finishing it up now one thing I want to tell you guys please keep posting in the comments below I love seeing your comments I love seeing your feedback and really I read every single one of them so whether it's on Facebook or YouTube post away thank you so much for watching hope you liked it all right guys if you like this cut make sure you hit that like button and share this video with all of your friends I really appreciate all of you guys supporting what I'm doing with creating these videos every day it means a lot so again hit that share button and comment below let me know what you think I'll see you guys on the next video thanks