 If you are looking for a little bit of hand-holding to get you through a knit sewing pattern or maybe a jumpsuit sewing pattern or both, you are in the right place. Today, ultimately, we will be cutting out our fabric. So exciting, so scary. Before we jump in, be sure to like this video so other people will see it. Subscribe and click the notification bell. If you're new here, I'm Lindsay. Hello and welcome. Leave a comment introducing yourself in the comments section below. Sew along videos like this one go up four times a year every couple of months and I cannot wait to get into this one. Also, this video is sponsored by Aliso and their brand new TG1600 Pro Plus iron. I'll be talking to you a lot more about this later on in this video, but let's talk first about choosing the right size for your pattern. All right, so first things first, we need to figure out what size we are going to cut. I always, always use my fast fit system. You can get this off of my website. I will have a link in the description box for you, but I filled out there's instructions and everything with the workbook, but I filled everything out and I came up with a bust size of 18, a waist of 20, and then a hip of 22. Technically, my hip should be a 24, but because there is six and a half inches of ease in this pattern at the hip, I know I have a little bit of wiggle room there. So I'm actually going to size down to a 22 and do a small little full seat adjustment because a lot of what makes up my hip is not necessarily the full circumference. Like I'm flat in the front at my hip, but I have a bigger bum. So I know that that full seat adjustment will make up for the sizing down. I also, the other reason why I want to do that is because I don't like jumping more than one size when I'm grading. So I have an 18 to a 20 and then a 20 to a 22. If I did 20 to 24, things get a little bit iffy there. All right, so now we need to press our pattern pieces to make sure we get all these little wrinkles out. I am using the new Aliso iron, the TG1600 Pro Plus. I talked a lot about all the additional features that this one has in episode zero. So be sure to check that out if you haven't already. But when you are pressing pattern pieces, you obviously don't want any steam and you don't need that much heat either. I love that with this iron, you can easily adjust those settings. You can go ahead and press your fabric as well. For that, you'll need lots of steam and only the heat that your fabric can withstand. My fabric is made of polyester with a little bit of rayon and spandex blended in. None of those fabrics like heat. So I'm going to leave my heat at the higher end of synthetic and let the steam do most of the work. Finding an iron that has like a lot of steam, a lot of good steam without a lot of heat is actually kind of tricky to find that balance. But I find that Aliso irons do a great job of handling both of those settings together, like relative to each other. Check the description box for a link where you can get $40 off your iron and free shipping. And then we need to take a look at this pants pattern. I always take a few measurements on my pants. This one is no exception, even though it is a knit and again, a little bit more forgiving. But what I do is they have the crotch line marked here. So I find the crotch line for size 22. And I measure up to find the like rise. And then I also measure over to the like crotch point in order to find the crotch depth. And then I compare that to my own measurements. Actually pretty happy with this. The other thing I want to point out though is the shape of this curve is very flat. I have this little bendable ruler that I've like shaped. Like I ran this underneath my crotch. So this is the shape of my bum and this is the shape of like the front of me. And this little rubber band is the middle. So if I put the rubber band at that crotch point, you can see that my bum is a lot wider than what this calls for. If I were to cut it like this, I would have all this excess fabric. But I don't love just like whacking two inches off of the curve. So I will pencil this in. I will trace this onto my fabric. And then I will decide after I can do my first fitting how I like how this is fitting. And then I can start, you know, shaving off a little bit each and every time. So so we will repeat this process for the front and double check that crotch as well. The only other thing I wanted to check was the inseam because this one looks really long to me. Our inseam ends up being 30 and five eights. So that I need to chop off roughly three eighths to half an inch. I will need to shorten. So to do that, you find your length Lincoln and shorten line cut through this. And I'm going to shorten by this very, very minuscule amount that we have over here. Not a lot. I could probably just take a deeper hem. All right. So now I take my I have a paper rotary cutter. I'm about to blow y'all's minds. I know it and I'm going to use that to cut out this pattern. So I'm just going to cut along size 22 and then grade into a 20 at the waist, which is up here. So um this dot is roughly my hip and that is a 22 and that is a 20. So we will come in something like this. You just kind of rotate it around until it gets eased in nicely between the two lines. And that will be my new hip measurement. All right. And there is my back pants. I will repeat that process for the front. The front does not get a full seat adjustment though, but I will grade at the side seam to accommodate my size 20 waist and 22 hip. And then for the bodice front, I'm going to be grading from a 20 to an 18 that because this is like a square and it's all straight lines. You just take your straight ruler and you grade it out just like this. Lost my pencil. So we're going to do it with this marker, but something along these lines here. Right. And then all through this we'll get the same size 18. We will double check this on my ditto form and you guys that don't have ditto forms will titch you fit on your own bodies here in a second. We've got a beautiful pocket that's going to get sewn into the waistband a little of that. So that just gets cut out as is the over back, the over front and the bodice back all get that same treatment that I just showed you with the front from the greeting out. If you're not greeting out and you're making a straight size, you just cut everything the same and you don't have to do any any grading whatsoever. So all right. So I got her the pattern pinned up on my ditto form. This is an exact replica of my body. It makes tissue fitting and assessing some of these things a million times easier. Basically I went in for this body scan. It's like a 3D thing like a spun around on this kind of like a Roomba looking thing. And then they use that to digitally create this dress form. It is completely pinnable. Obviously I have my bust line, waistline, hip line, center front, center back all marked on the ditto form. She is just a real powerhouse and makes adjustments like these and assessing patterns so much easier. All right. So I've got her up on my ditto form and you can see I have a little bit of gaping here in the front. But when I turn her to the back, nice and flat. So I know it's not an issue with at the shoulder. Instead, the issue is just within the front. The center front angle is just not necessarily sloped right for the shape of my breast is really all it comes down to. So I will pin out this little itty bitty wedge. It ends up being about, I don't know, a quarter of an inch or so. So I will pin that out out to nothing at my bust line. All right. Speaking of my bust line, you can see that the bust point is the circle with the plus sign through it. And that is hitting exactly at my bust apex. That makes me so happy and so excited. So I love that the line from my high point shoulder down to my bust point is spot on. All right. So then we want to check for the waistline. And this is when things start to get a little funky monkey with this pattern. It looks like the waist. So here's the patterns waistline. Here's my waistline. And if we look at the pattern, you can tell there's no intention of it to be blousing over. So I don't think we need all of this extra length through here. So what I will do is I will grab this marker. And well, ironically, it happens to be right at the length and short line. So that makes it really easy, but I will just draw on the pattern where my actual waistline is. And then I know when I get back to my cutting table that I need to remove whatever distance this is. Obviously, you will be adjusting that in the back as well. The front is a little bit wider than the back. You can see how much this is sticking out where this is like hanging close to my body. So it's causing the side seem to come to the front a little bit. That doesn't bother me so much because we have the elastic waist. I know a lot of this is going to get brought in. So I'm not too concerned about it. This were like a fitted like a fit and flare with no elastic at the waist. That would be a concern. But I'm going to leave this as is the only other thing that I like to check for and because especially because this pattern is sleeveless is through here. Let me come around to the other side so you guys can see through the arm side. How much space do we have here? The last thing we want is to be wearing this and then you can see into our garment or into like into our body. This one back here we kind of need in order to like round our back and move around. But this one here makes me a wee bit nervous because it is such a gaping hole. So to fix that similarly to how we did in the front and it's probably related to the same issue in the front with there not being any bust starts on this pattern. Same similar situation you just fold a little pleat and now it hangs closer to the body. So all I'm going to do to fix my bodice is take two little wedges out of this shoulder area and shorten the bodice front and back and that'll be that. So I'll take you back to the table where we can like transfer them over one. So the amount that needs to come out drum roll please is yeah right at well it's like one and seven eighths of an inch. We can draw in our new length and shorten line which has to be perpendicular to the center front. So I know this looks a little funky now and then I'm going to go ahead and draw up one and seven eighths of an inch. All right cool and then cut through one and then bring all of that up to the second line that we drew and then we're going to tape this in place and now we have a bodice that is shortened by the amount that we need. So for the side seam it's as easy as putting a little piece of paper down through this area. Tape it you don't need to tape down here but you can tape through here and then grabbing your ruler again and we're going to go from the size 20 to the size 18 just like we did when we were cutting it out. Now all of this that I am doing to this bodice front and what I'm doing to the bodice back as well has to be repeated on the overlay piece. All right and then for the back all we're doing in the back is the lengthening and shortening. It goes the same way as I just showed you here and I just want to point out one error when you come across your facings your facings will say a, b, and c but you do not need the facings for a and b because we have the overlay um and it's illustrated correctly on the cutting layouts it's just marked correctly or incorrectly on that pattern piece. The other thing that I want to say about cutting out this pattern is that don't feel like and I mentioned this a little bit in last week's episode in episode zero don't feel like you have to use your fashion fabric for the bodice front and bodice back the overlays yes absolutely but you will not see the bodice front and bodice back you will only see the overlays so I'm going to be using the tree co-winding for the pocket and the jersey for the bodices okay so you do have some options there all right let's get cutting this fabric again all we need is over front a and b we don't need the pocket we don't need the actual bodice we don't need any facings and then just our pants so the layout here is the one that I'm following um folded completely in half with the selvages matching and all I need is five six seven and eight so that's what I'm going to cut out of that I'm just going to lay these on my uh fold lines both of the both of the bodice over fronts and over back the what do you call them the bodice overlays I guess we can call them that get placed on the center front and center back here you probably can't see off camera a little bit and then the pants get placed in this area here um and then cut out the other pieces from your lining fabrics and we are good to go for today a lot of information I completely understand if you guys are like wait what um but this is what it takes to kind of prep your patterns and quite honestly you're not spending this much time on them that is when you tend to make clothes that you're like oh it's okay or you know I'm really proud of how the construction turned out that fits not the best um which is why I just take the time to do this every single time so that I know I can end up being super successful in the description box we have lots of information for you guys there including a link to my fast fit workbook that you will need to figure out the size um the same way that I did we will have a link to the eliso iron we will have a link to ditto form and her scan schedule um lots and lots of information down there so be sure to check the description box if you didn't watch episode zero of this so along I've linked it here for you it goes over the pattern online and in-person fabric suggestions and the notions you need and a lot more I'll be back tomorrow for episode two where we will sew the bodice but that is going to do it for me today y'all thank you so much for watching I will see you all very soon bye