 Section 12 of Travels to Oaxaca by Nicholas Joseph Thierry de Menonville, an anonymous translation from the French, this LibriVox recording is in the public domain. Quicatlan, the capital of an ancient kingdom, is still a pretty large town containing about two hundred families. It is planted with trees of every kind, beneath which many fountains of fresh water spread health and coolness. I made a tour of the town. Its population appeared to me considerable, for everywhere I saw men walking about, and women seated in the current of the rills which flowed from the fountains, combing, washing, and soaping themselves. Your bathing is very usual with the Spanish women here, especially the head. After well washing the head, it is soaked with the crushed root of a plant, which I brought back with me, and which is sold in the country by the pint. With this substitute for soap, the shoulders and bosom are likewise washed. The sight of the beautiful black hair of these women hanging down the neck and shoulders, extremely fair, was highly interesting. Nor did their simple dress delight me less. Their long hair, divided into two tresses, and interwoven with a rose-colored ribbon, falls down to the ground. A very white shift, a furbalode muslin petticoat, a scarf of gauze, or alinsant lace, sometimes bordered with a fringe of gold or silver. This with a little bouquet on the side of the head completes their neat costume, a costume if seen which would not be despised even by our nicest coquettes. In this place I remarked a degree of emulation in culture, which I noticed nowhere else. Corn is sown and the trees are lopped and grafted. I remarked in the hedge which surrounded a very pretty garden, a species of crescentia didium angiosperm, calabash tree, which would have delighted Linnae, seeing he inquires if any new species exist. The leaves of this species are in bundles of the same form and color, though smaller than in the one noticed by the father of botany. But the fruit, which is but two inches in diameter, is ten inches long, angular and tuberous like the cacao, and seeds of the shape of a heart smothered in the pulp, are not larger than those of the capsicum. The fruit is used in kitchens as a pot herb, or in ragus. I met with the same again in the markets of Campeche. I was solicitous of seeing the parsonage house and the church. The first was very commodious. His owner, the rector, received me at first with coolness, but on learning I was a botanist he made amends by a profusion of civilities, and consulted me on some complaints under which he labored. This clerical gentleman was of good appearance, with ruby countenance which bespoke good living. The parish church is large, well-lighted, and kept remarkably clean. It is true, on this occasion, it was put in order as the feast of Pentecost was to be celebrated the next day. A matter that surprised me was to see a schoolmaster there practicing motets for the following day, and six choristers repeating the music in very good time. To me the air was pleasing and not without taste. The belfry is not more singular. It is raised on a natural mound of earth, one hundred feet high, and consists of four posts, eighteen feet high, fastened and crossed at the top. From the crossbars the bell is suspended about three feet from the ground, weighing not less than ten thousand weight. The roof of the belfry is of straw thatch, like the roofs of our ice houses. I returned to supper, and in the interval arrived the officer of the tobacco-guard, from whom I learnt whatever I would buy means of a few glasses of brandy. The rogue was perfectly well acquainted with the whole country, from Panama to Acapulco, and from Cartagena to Veracruz. He talked fluently on politics, declaimed against the government, and in case of need, assuredly was open to seduction. The casserole informed me likewise another traveller in an honest Franciscan friar about to preach at Guatemala. I inquired if he was inclined to accompany me in the morning, and he consented, provided I would wait until he had celebrated mass. This being agreed upon, I retired to rest, and he to supper. The next day we set off at five in the morning, and arrived, after a smart ride of a league and a half, at the passage of Rio Grande. Rain had fallen in the mountains, another day's rain would have rendered the river impracticable. Here it is much wider than at Quiotepic, its breadth not being less than four hundred yards, and the sides, consequently much less precipitous. An Indian, beckoned to from the opposite side, came and took the leading horses by the bridle, and perfectly naked, conducted us over the river. For our part we were in the water up to the saddle-bowl, and he to the breast, and this took place so leisurely that I had full opportunity of noticing all the danger. The current was so rapid that it confounded me. I was obliged to steady myself by the pommel, my legs on the horse's rump, and my breast on its neck. The animal itself trembled, and advanced not a step without first feeling his way on account of the enormous rounded stones at the bottom. At length we got through, and my fellow traveler, breathless with fear, and not less pale than myself, remarked in good French, that if we had drowned without having first gone to mass the people would not have failed to ascribe our death to a failure of devotion. I laughed heartily at the fancy, and seeing whom I had to deal with by this sally, I was no longer under any constraint with him. He was indeed one of the pleasantest fellows for a monk I ever met with, and with this a man of sense, one who had seen the world lively and inquisitive as much as becomes a man. Finally he was highly engaging, obliging, and unceremonious. We continually kept along the banks of the river till dinnertime. It was covered with twenty species of waterfowl, both large and small, especially crows, Corvus Aquaticus Minor, Linnaeus, which I much regretted not having time to examine. We arrived at an early hour at Don Domighio, where, thanks to the good father who took with him a well-supplied larder, we made an excellent dinner. Don Domighio is situate at the confluence of the Rio Grande and the Rio de las Vueltas, or the turns, so denominated from its frequent windings. It abounds in fruit trees and is plentifully watered. As we were saddling our horses in order to depart, we heard a horn, and immediately after saw a spanyard, dressed in blue, turned up with red, with a large silver plate in form of a shield on his side, and a small horn of the same metal, depending from a cord which passed over the shoulder. He was a courier. As a specimen of his diligence, he left Tehuacan the day before, and reckoned on reaching Oaxaca on the morrow by six in the morning. I held discourse with him for a few minutes. He seemed inquisitive, but I readily concealed from him my designs. He took a different road to ours over the mountains in order to avoid crossing the rivers, no doubt from apprehension of being stopped by their course. As for us, we passed through the gorge in which flows the river de las Vueltas. This gorge is in places a hundred paces broad, at others scarcely a dozen yards. In order to go in a direct line through the windings of this gorge, it is necessary to cross the river seventy times. My fellow travelers reckoned the number, the mulleteer by means of small pebbles, and the monk by the beads of his rosary, and their accounts tallied. For my part, after the twentieth time I was tired of counting, and was so much fatigued that I could willingly have halted midway in order to take a nap. I found on the banks of the river a flowering plant much resembling cockle, campion, a tree covered with flowers which I recognized immediately for the custard apple or anona, but which in this country is commonly called the cherimoya, which makes it almost certain that the famous cherimoya of Mexico, so much extolled, is really nothing else than a reticulated anona. I moreover found here the Mexican Solanum, arboricent and with large lanceot leaves, which I had before noticed in the king's garden, and a species of fruit-bearing asclepius with leaves like myrtle, a straight stem, and yellow flowers of the shape and size of our small yellow jasmine. At length, the gorge through which we were traveling, enlarging to a quarter of a league, we left the windings of the river, and arrived at Atlatuaca, a pueblo situate in the gorge and most desirably on account of its excellent water. On the left of the mountains and on a glacis, the slope of which is towards the river, stand the church and the Casa Real. I felt unpleasantly from having my feet so frequently wedded and retired to rest without supper in spite of the solicitations of my fellow traveler. Tormented by the gnats, I rose the next morning by three and awakened everybody. It was so cold that we were obliged to make a fire. My thermometer stood at nine degrees above the freezing point, forty-eight and two-thirds degree of Fahrenheit. We made a hearty breakfast from the store of the good father, and when about to saddle my horse, I was witness to a spectacle which frightened and surprised me exceedingly. The riding mule of the master of the house, fastened to a post, had all night long been sucked, some say by a vampire, a spirit, but really by a living animal, a bat which had bit it between the left ear and the mane below the occiput, and had drawn from it more than four quarts of blood. The whole head and neck of the mule was covered with gore, as well as the post against which it no doubt had rubbed in order to disengage itself from this cruel harpy. I was in complete astonishment at the sight, but I learnt that such events are common, and that when one bat has succeeded in thus opening the vein of a horse or mule, all the rest come and satiate themselves from this source. We guessed this place to be wretchedly poor, from the care I noticed with which some women were collecting a few grains of maize from a spot where a caravan of mules had been recently fed. I learnt also that the maize which was the most esteemed in the country and most common is long, flat, and quadrangular, and the straw white. At about four o'clock we departed, and four leagues from up that walka, after having crossed the river of turns seven or eight times, we distinguished Haya Katlan. Charming Hamlet, no never shall I forget thee. I no longer wondered at the anxiety I felt that morning to set off, the impatience I experienced to arrive. These were doubtless forbodings of my good fortune. Not minds nor metallic wealth thus thou enjoy, perhaps, but for me nothing that is curious, but thou first presented me with the object of my prayers and researches. Yes, thou art the most lovely of Hamlets. At Haya Katlan it was that, for the first time in my life, I saw the cochiniel alive on the nopal by which it is nourished. I even trembled with ecstasy. The day before, my Capuchin, who was very well acquainted with the country, on detailing its riches and cultivation, had mentioned to me cochiniel. I merely expressed to him a desire of having some in my possession that I might the better be enabled to describe it. But when he told me it was likewise to be found at Los Quays, which I had passed through, I was vexed with myself exceedingly at missing the opportunity I had had of finding it sooner and at less expense. Still, I had nothing wherewith to reproach myself, for how was I to have known there was cochiniel at Los Quays? Under apprehension of disclosing my secret, I had imposed on myself a restriction from even mentioning the word cochiniel. In this village I met not with a single Indian who understood Spanish, and the only Spaniard I encountered, though he did indeed speak to me of cochiniel, by no means even hinted at its being cultivated there. I never thought therefore of looking for it at that place, and chance alone could have thrown it in my way. After all, I had no cause to repent my going so far in search of it, as my extra journeys afforded me the opportunity of seeing more of it, of speaking of it more largely, of procuring excellent vanilla, and finally of meeting with more safe means of transporting and preserving all my treasures. To return to my dear cochiniel, on arriving at Hayekatlan, I saw a garden full of nopals, and had no doubt I should there find the precious insect I was so desirous to examine. I therefore leapt from my horse under pretense of altering my stirrup leathers, entered the grounds of the Indian proprietor, began a conversation with him, and inquired to what use he put those plants. He answered, to cultivate la grana. I seemed astonished, and begged to see the cochiniel, but my surprise was real when he brought it me, for instead of the red insect I expected, there appeared one covered with a white powder. I was tormented with the doubts I entertained, and to resolve them bethought me of crushing one on white paper, and what was the result? It yielded the truly royal purple hue. Intoxicated with joy and admiration, I hastily left my Indian, throwing him two rails for his pains, and galloped at full speed after my companion, who was waiting for me at a wretched sugar work, the canes about which, however, were superb. At last, said I to myself, I have seen this insect, have held it in my hands, I shall undoubtedly meet with it again, as I am now in the country where it is cultivated, the Indians assuredly will sell it me, and I thus shall be able to bear off my prize, the object and end of all my ardent wishes. Still certain reflections mixed gall with my delight, I could not hide from myself the difficulty I should have to bring it to safe haven, an animal so light, so pliable, so easy to crush, an animal which, once separated from the plant, could never settle on it again, the shocks of the horse, a journey of a hundred leagues by land, could I hope with these to preserve it, and the enormous plants on which I saw the insect, was it possible for me to transport them? How was I to hide them? And what a case must it not require to contain a tree eight feet high by a diameter of five or six? These mournful ideas occasioned me a deep reverie which not all the gaiety of the capuchin could disperse. I excused myself by pretending fatigue and the vexation I endured from my horse, the worst in real truth I had hitherto crossed. To San Juan del Rey the distance was six leagues, with but one intervening mountain called La Costa. It is nearly a league perpendicular in height, and the road over it is almost as difficult as that of Quixotepec. While to complete our trouble in passing it, we were beleaguered by two caravans of loaded mules. The road was so narrow that we were obliged to alight from our horses and climb upon rocks in order to leave room for them to pass, and made way for five hundred animals following each other one by one. The sound of the bells and the whistling and smacking of whips of thirty mule tears echoed by the surrounding mountains occasioned a strange confusion, a noise with which we were almost stupefied. However, after attaining a certain height, the road becomes wider and of more gentle ascent. The soil consists of vegetable earth, euling in abundance excellent herbage, on which at their halting the mules are wont to pasture. This mountain, constantly enveloped in fog, is remarkable for its perpetual cool, and the deep shades, its pines, its oaks, and the large timber of various kind occasion regret, that to remove them to the plains should be a work so difficult and expensive. The prospect from the crest of the mountain is wonderful. Behind is Sinkikatlan, and that mountain of Tehuakan, from which we had distinguished the one on which we were. In part extended the magnificent plain of Oaxaca, and the valley between two chains of mountains, which reaches to Guatemala, three hundred leagues distant. On the right and left the eye embraces distinctly a scope of forty leagues of beautiful country, but in front it was that a real paradise was displayed. The views of Oaxaca in the distance, and of fifty villages or hamlets on this side of it, vying with each other in beauty and pleasantness of sight, the splendor of the stone with which they are built, their roofs of curved tiles as in Lorraine, the gardens and charming trees with which they are encompassed, had certainly a ravishing effect. The road presented us with objects no less curious. I might have collected more than twenty herbaceous plants and shrubs of a curious and novel kind, but all my attention was attracted by a flower of a splendid, blood-red color. It was a lily of Santiago, Amarillo's, for Mosísima. The whole neighborhood was covered with it. I recollected, having seen it in flower in the royal apartments at Versailles, and I promised myself to pluck some bulbs of it on my return for my friend Mr. Toin, the head gardener of His Majesty. He had made me a present of two for the purpose of naturalizing them at Santo Domingo. But having left that island so soon after reaching it, I had entrusted them with an inhabitant of the colony by whose negligence they perished. And here I cannot refrain from remarking how little curiosity, invention, or industry, except indeed in what regards the peculiar objects of culture, such as coffee, sugar, or indigo, is displayed by the inhabitants of Santo Domingo. His immediate culture alone engrosses all his faculties. What is merely commodious or ornamental never enters his fancy. From such a character is not to be expected any care for the naturalization of different fruits and flowers, or a solicitude of perfecting such as have been transplanted there. Why should I, he questions, am I not sufficiently occupied in making my fortune? I look at the end of my labors for enjoyment of life, and next year I shall set off. Even ten years after, the colonist is still found on the island, and finally there he terminates his days. We arrived at San Juan del Rey at noon. The lands sown with corn through which we traveled reminded me of Europe. The first thing that struck me on entering the pueblo was a plantation of no-pals in most excellent order. I was dying with impatience to enter it, but was obliged to accompany my party to the Casa Real. While however supper was being prepared, I slipped away. Thinking at the house of the rector of the village to whom the plantation of no-pals was stated to belong, I entered that of a tall and stout negro who was the alcalde of the place. After first compliments I fixed my attention on a pewter basin on the table, in which I saw a quantity of dry cochineal mixed with dirt. Respecting it I put a thousand questions to him, and stated how much I should be gratified in seeing his plantation of no-pals. My request seemed to please him as much as my condescension, for this description of people is in general treated by European Spaniards with the most profound contempt. He led me with readiness to his garden, at the gate of which I saw a singular fixture. It was a leaf of the no-pals nailed to the threshold, on which fastened by as many pins, were stuck a number of caterpillars, and two or three species of cochinelli, one of which was the cochinella cacti cochinelli ferri coeliopteris atris duobus punctis luteis linaeus, the yellow and black ladybug. This at first I regarded as some amulet or charm and a bad augury with respect to the religion of my African. But the lady of the alcalde, though as black as her husband, undeceived me in the most satisfactory manner, by informing me that they were los enemigos de la grana, the enemies of the cochineal, which were thus emulated at every harvest, and which were placed there in order that they might be universally known and devoted to general persecution. The plantation of no-pals might have an extent equal to an acre and a half. It was neat, kept in good order, and the trees loaded with the last crop, which appeared to me a very abundant one. The no-pals, all of them of the same age, were about four feet high by as many broad. The order in which they were planted, like as Hayakatlan, was from east to west. I fancied that I discovered the male insect in a species of cochinellis of a very lively red color, but I have since been satisfied by experience that I was in error. The proprietor informed me that he collected from four to eight arrobas of cochineal annually, and that its price on the spot was from eighteen to twenty-four reels, the pound. While in conversation with the alcalde, my traveling companion became impatient for his dinner, and sent out in search of me. I ate with a good appetite, imagining we should make another stage after dinner and reach Oaxaca that day, from which we were yet eight leagues distant. But the monk, who loved his ease, signified that he did not mean to proceed further. For my part, I resolved on setting off immediately after dinner, and returning thanks to my monk, as well as his major domo, to whom I made a small present, I jumped on my horse, and already anticipated the sound of the clack of the whip in the fullborgs of Oaxaca. How wide in my reckoning was I? The rascally topoth had furnished me with a mare in full, which could not be made to exceed a walk. I was perfectly in a rage, but soon became calm from the reflections to which the incident gave rise. I saw, confirmed, the old observation, that the depravity of man is in proportion to the extent of society. In fact, all the Indians I had seen in my way, as far as San Juan del Rey, were generally speaking simple, mild, and ingenuous, because at distance from great towns. But from this place to Oaxaca they are sly, subtle, and even navish and idle. It may truly be said that the neighborhood of European Spaniards has been a pest, a plague, equally unfortunate and prompt of diffusion. CHAPTER XII. I had had tolerable good horses, or at least had not been led into error, but this scoundrel had had the impudence to extol the excellence of the mare I rode, though a truly good-for-nothing beast. But this was not all. Tired at last with the obstinacy of the wretched animal, I inquired if there was no place where I might rest. The topoth answered, No. I had heard of the band of thieves of Etla, and now had strong suspicions. Not only that my conductor was a rogue, but also that he might be one of the band. Night was drawing on. I scarcely knew what planned to adopt, when, fortunately, I distinguished a procession which satisfied me, we were, but a short distance from Etla. I made all diligence to reach the rectory. A lighted from my horse kissed the sleeve of the rector's surplus, according to the custom of the place, and inquired for the Casa Real. We entered by the lower part of the hamlet. He pointed out the Casa in the upper part, about a quarter of a league distant, whither I repaired. It is situate in an immense esplanade, and forms part of a large pile of building, which seemed to me a farmhouse. In front there is a large gallery paved, on the left a prison, on the right a tienda, or shop, kept by the lieutenant of the Alcalde. On the northeast the esplanade is terminated by an immense building, which seemed a magnificent castle. I had the curiosity to visit it, and found it to be a convent of Dominicans, which had formerly belonged to the Jesuits, but which their successors had suffered to fall to decay. The architecture of it, half Roman, half arabesque, notwithstanding the excellence of the masonry, was in my eyes poor. I entered the hall in which the courts are held, the ornaments of which announce that the district of this Alcaldia is large. While waiting for the return of the lieutenant of the Alcalde, in order to procure supper, ten or twelve men in cloaks passed in succession before me, making low bows, and as if desirous of a costing me. Their little promising physiognomy was a sufficient inducement with me to send them about their business, and I afterwards learned that they were idle scoundrels, who lived in the language of our excellent La Fontaine, merely by French Le Pays, or Spunging. Men fit for those employments only, which exact, neither labor nor fidelity. I concluded, as must everyone, that such fellows are of no value, and that the sooner the country should be quit of them, the better. In the meantime, the lieutenant of the Alcalde returned. I paid him a visit, and found him seated at his counter in the middle of the shop. He received me with the gravity of a monarch giving audience to ambassadors, and scarcely vowshaped a look. But I had from my part too contemptible an opinion of the wretch to take any offense at my reception. All I wanted of him was somewhat for supper. He furnished me with bread, four eggs, and a gallon of wine. But shortly after I had occasion for him, for perceiving that my nave of a topoth gave my horse nothing to eat, I requested the interference of the lieutenant of the Alcalde, who attended to my request, and even threatened to make him pay for its food himself. After this I laid myself down to rest on some very clean mats in the auditory, and slept with that tranquility a many may do in a court of justice who have nothing to dread from the laws. The next morning I departed at daybreak. The cold very sharp, my mare thanks to my pains, went somewhat better than she had done the day before. But she soon became tired, and at two leagues from Idla I was famed to fend away my topoth, not without a strong inclination to give him a sound thrashing. Fortunately for him, pity interposed, and pleaded his cause so that he escaped punishment. I continued my road on foot. The town was no more than a league and a half distant, the country along the road delightful. I fancied myself, transported into our plains in Europe, and proceeded to Oaxaca between hedges filled with trees and plants unknown to me. Among those were a unipara sabina of 12 feet in diameter, convolvuli, palos, cordovans, et cetera. The suburbs of Oaxaca were thickly set with plantations of nopals, at which I glanced an eye occasionally, but without exhibiting any symptoms of curiosity. Finally I entered the town with the appearance of a person who had recently left it for a walk, and halted at an end pointed out to me on my right, a hundred paces distant from Nuestra Senora de la Soledad, the term of my pilgrimage. Nothing can be conceived more magnificent than the sight of Oaxaca. From San Juan de Rey to this town opens a plain two leagues in breadth, which extends the length of five or six to the environs of the town. On the lowest part of the slope of a hill, which appends to the chain of mountains on the northeast, stands Oaxaca, the capital of the province of the same name, at a distance of somewhat more than a league from the mountains. It fronts the opening of three planes, that of San Juan de Rey, which leads to Guatemala on the southeast, and another on the southwest, of which I forget the name. This position has rendered it a center at which the first sail takes place, of all the aniseed, cochineal, and vanilla, collected in the gorges between the high mountains, by which it is encompassed at a distance of five, six, and seven leagues. It is amply furnished with cereal productions, and fruit of all kinds from the plain, the foot of the slope on which it is built is bathed by a beautiful river, and well-planned aqueducts supply it with abundance of water of the utmost excellence. The air constantly refreshed by eastern breezes in the morning, and at evening, by others from the west, is pure and delightful, and of such moderate temperature that at eight in the morning in May, my thermometer denoted 16 degrees above the freezing point, and at noon 22 degrees, note 68 degrees Fahrenheit in the morning, and 81 and one-half degrees of Fahrenheit at noon. From this happy circumstance, not withstanding it is situate about the 20th degree of latitude, it enjoys an ever-blooming spring. Finally, magnificent and highly ornamented prospects, excellence of soil, profusion of fruits, as well European as American, which succeed each other in unremitting continuance, would make an actual paradise of Oaxaca, where it only possessed by a more industrious and active race of men. Its numerous steeples and elevated domes give this city, at a distance, an air of grandeur, and it may be truly affirmed that its interior corresponds. It is sixteen hundred fathoms long by about a thousand broad, and nearly quadrangular, if the suburbs be included, which are replete, as I have before remarked, with plantations of nopals and gardens. Its streets are wide, straight, well-paved, and level. The houses on each side are built with stone, two stories high. At the time I was there, a townhouse was building on a plan which evinced some taste, and will prove a great ornament to the great square on which it is built. The stone is of a sea-green color. The same square is adorned by the bishop's palace and the church, which form two of its sides, and both of which, after the manner of the Spaniards, are entirely surrounded by arcades, strongly constructed, and of infinite utility in protecting passengers from the sun and from rain. To conclude, all the churches, which are numerous and finally built, are neatly whitened without, and richly ornamented, within. The population of this city, including Negroes, mulattoes, and Indians, amounts to six thousand. It is the residence of a bishop and a governor of the province, and is under the jurisdiction of the Audiencia of Guatemala, to the viceroy of which province the governor of Oaxaca is subordinate. The inn to which I had been directed was so wretched and filthy that I could not rest satisfied with making it my abode. I made haste in dressing myself, and deposited in my room the packet of clothes which I had constantly carried with me, and which I found, however small, yet cumbersome, and left the place much embarrassed at my appearance and not knowing whether to go. Without a cloak, I looked at once a foreigner, a net for my hair and a broad-brimmed hat, scarcely in any degree protected me from a crowd of inquisitive eyes. To get rid of the curiosity of the people, I entered the first church I met with, and thus, without suspecting it, accomplished my vow, for it turned out to be that of noise to the senor de la soledad. After admiring its treasure, its gildings, the dome, in bad taste, but built of brick, varnished externally with checker work, and a multitude of ex votos equally ridiculous and fanatic, I left the church as little forwarded as, and in no better heart than when I entered. I wandered about at random in the streets, when at last I noticed that I was followed by a man in a cloak whom I had seen at the inn. He was loaded with rosaries and scapularies, and at first sight might be mistaken for a very devout zealot. When in the church he kneeled, as I kneeled, rose as I rose, walked in my steps, and stopped when I halted. I was seized with fear. I imagined him to be a spy, employed by the police, and fixed there purposely to watch my motions, or perhaps those of all new comers. I resolved on knowing the truth, and accosted him, inquiring whether his rosaries were for sale. He answered in the affirmative, but that he had another occupation, which was to learn where I should pass the day. Where I please was my instant answer, in a tone demonstrating a greater fund of assurance than what I actually possessed. But why this question? Because, said he, simpering, and in a mysterious manner, I should feel myself so happy if it should be in my power to procure any enjoyment to a stranger so kind and generous as you appear to be. At these words, which at once unmasked his character, I breathed with greater freedom, I now perfectly comprehended that this gentleman was no other than what at court, where all things are painted in their fairest colors, is termed the prince's friend. Gracious powers, said I to myself, and is it in the very sanctuary of the immaculate virgin that vice perfumes under the veil of hypocrisy to exhibit her allurements? Turning then to the unknown, friend said I, you follow then a pretty and very obliging sort of trade, but I have no need of you, and beware how you follow me any further. After this incident, I penetrated into the city, where I met with some tolerably handsome coaches and crowds of people. I was solicitous of seeing the cathedral. It was now the third festival of Whitsun Tide, and High Mass was celebrating. The music was fine, grave and majestic, the voices excellent, the cadences in good measure, and the numerous and solemn pauses well calculated to inspire devotion and reflecting thoughts. I was in a profound ecstasy, when at the elevation of the host a gray-headed priest holding a silver cross in one hand, like our choristers in France, and in the other a wand of the same metal, like our porters, touched me gently with the ladder, and requested me to take off the net from my hair, which hitherto I had constantly worn unnoticed in all the churches. I did immediately as I was desired, and could but admire this regulation, though feeling hurt at the species of a front I had unwarily drawn upon me. I immediately left the church. I had occasion for some repairs to my watch, and after looking about at length found a watchmaker's, he was absent, but his wife received me in such a manner as almost to put me to the blush. She was a woman of six and thirty, a brunette, who had been handsome, and was still tormented with that immoderate desire of pleasing, which some women lose only with life itself. She made me a thousand questions, and succeeded in learning I was a botanist. She concluded thence that I was a physician, and endeavored to persuade me to fix at Oaxaca, telling me that notwithstanding the extent of the city, there was not in it either a physician or surgeon, and that she would vouch that her husband, who was a corajedor, should forward me to the full of his ability. She even, in pretty distinct terms, told me she could herself be of service to me. And I began to feel somewhat for the gratitude she might expect, when fortunately her husband entered. He was an excellent machinist, and drew extremely well, as he satisfied me by a multitude of works which he displayed, as well in relief as on paper of his doing. He had moreover rather a curious garden, in which I gathered some seeds of mirasol and sage with cornrows, flowers. After leaving the corajedor, I obtained a direction to a trunk-makers. My plan required I should be furnished with cases or coffers easy of transport. The tradesmen to whom I was directed showed me some of all sizes. I chose eight, two feet long by fourteen inches broad, and of similar depth. They were of a white and very light wood, dovetailed even bound at the corners and with locks. They were moreover so solid and so well made, that better could not have been produced in any workshop in Paris. The price also was reasonable. They cost me seventeen reals the pair, or about four shillings each. I asked for no abatement, and my liberality purchased me the present of a basket of apricots, which had just been given to the trunk-maker in which he observed me notice with longing eyes. This European fruit is so much degenerated, from not having been grafted, that it is but little larger than the Montmorency cherry. It has not withstanding preserved its original flavor. I now perceive that I should never have been able at Los Quays to have met with the same resources as at Oaxaca. There indeed I might have obtained cochineal, but this was not sufficient. The means of transporting it were alike necessary. I was consequently very well satisfied with my bargain. I merely conditioned over and above the purchase to have partitions made in each of the boxes, and I brought away with me the keys. Delighted at having thus assured in a degree success in my undertaking, astonished at finding myself so far advanced, and at having so readily overcome all the difficulties I had to fight against, I was scarcely able to bear my weight of joy, and imagine myself in a dream from which I dreaded to awake, but which every instant I found would be the case. The greater the facility I had hitherto met with, the more was I apprehensive of the obstacles which I painted to myself would attend the future. This mixture of satisfaction and in quietude occasioned an oppression on my mind, a melancholy which I was utterly unable to shake off. In this state I walked through the streets without well knowing whither I went. At length I found myself in one of the suburbs called de las vueltas, or the turnings, a name distinctive of the gardens of this country, where it is considered beauty to intersect them with walls and partitions, which occasioned so many windings and recesses in the same enclosure. Among others were some plantations of nopales, the order of the rows in which I observed to be still the same as I before had noticed, that is, to say, from east to west, but in almost all of which the crops had been recently gathered. In some plantations I saw men employed, lopping off the branches in others planting. At length I distinguished one which appeared to me magnificent, and so thickly loaded with cochineal that not a single leaf could be taken from the nopale without crushing a thousand of the insects. In order to take a survey at leisure I entered into a garden, parted from the plantation only by a hedge under pretense of buying flowers. The first objects in this garden which excited my attention was a violet-colored aster, as large as those grown with us, but produced on a shrub resembling by its pinated leaves, our elder tree, and which had a very fine effect. What however engrossed almost the whole of my attention and thoughts was the beautiful plantation of nopales, and while the bouquet I had ordered was being gathered, I satiated my eyes with the spectacle before me. The nopales were thickly planted at about four feet distance, in lines six feet apart. I learned that this nopale ground belonged to a negro who was not there at that time. I fed myself with hopes of buying of him, both the nopale and some of the insects. After traversing several other gardens I returned to the city and caused those to be pointed out to me belonging to an apothecary whose name was Don Antonio Pisa, and which had been highly extolled by the gardeners I had spoken with, the proprietor conceiving by my dress that I was a Frenchman, showed me the utmost civility, and proffered to me his services, after which, informing him that being a botanist I was anxious to see his garden, he caused his nephew to accompany me to it, politely excusing himself from not being of the party, owing to his advanced age and infirmities. This garden, intersected by five or six walls, which no doubt announced so many fresh acquisitions, appeared to have been framed at great expense. A copious fountain, very pleasingly ornamented, delivered its waters at the height of eight feet into an antique vase. Went through four spouts, they descended into a spacious basin from which they were conducted into different reservoirs. A number of indifferent pinks, a quantity of salvia othecas, a species of sage, some agaves, malalote, blue everlastings, oxal or sorrel, pot herbs, mallows, apricots, grapes, and peaches, these formed the whole of the rarities I found in this garden, which moreover was kept in very indifferent order. While I was there, I saw a female enter the garden, the lady of a Corredor, in a rich veil of black velvet trimmed with gold fringe. She came escorted by a very handsome man for the purpose of seeing, as I afterwards learned, the face of a Frenchman. I paid my respects to her in the most polite manner, yet hurt at thus becoming the object of general curiosity and much vexed in my foreign appearance. After she had retired, I went to return thanks to the apothecary and spoken high terms of his garden. Much pleased with me, Don Antonio Pisa was solicitous I should visit another garden no less curious. I repaired thither and did indeed find a garden which would have done honor to the marshes of Paris by the fine display it afforded of cabbages, artichokes, raspberries, apricots, and grapes. Water was everywhere distributed in little gutters, along plots planted with parsley, turnips, radishes, and well-hearted lettuce. Five or six workmen, Indians, or a mixed breed, were at work here. Here also I found the owner, Don Gregorio Meuta, one of the corregidores of the city, a man about five and forty of handsome countenance and graceful deportment. He condescended to applaud my researches and curiosity and pointed out to me everything that was curious. What, however, appeared to me most worthy of remark was a tree which at first sight resembled much a reine cloud plum tree, but which was no other than a malpiglia which I had not hitherto seen. I begged the proprietor to allow me to gather some of the fruit in order to obtain the stones. The fruit it yields is as large as our white-heart cherries. I wished to pay for what I gathered, but was not suffered, nor would even the Indian workmen who attended accept the two reyals which I proffered them. I again returned to my apothecary, and having given him a picture of the wretched inn at which I had taken up my abode, a picture which, from the difficulty I had to express myself in Spanish, made him laugh till the tears dropped. I besought him to point out to me someone where I might get a decent meal, and this he promised to do. The conversation next turned on the different objects of culture in the country. He inquired if I was acquainted with them, to which I answered in the affirmative, with the exception of Vanilla, which I was anxious of seeing in order to describe it with the precision of a botanist. A priest who happened to be present interrupted me to state that he had some in a wood depended on a farm belonging to him, about six leagues dense, and that if I wished it he would send one of his Indians thither with me the next day as a guide. He even offered to obtain a horse for me, and this with all that politeness and kind anticipation which we Frenchmen are want to deem peculiar to ourselves. I then took my leave, exceedingly pleased with my day's work, and well convinced that with a little hardy-hood and activity much may be affected. I repaired to my new inn recommended by Don Antonio Pisa, conducted by a servant of that gentleman. It was kept by a Frenchman who had been cooked to the late governor. I accosted my countrymen with a sensation of pleasure, and with that confidence which might easily be conceived by anyone who for the instant would place himself in my situation. I did not even take into account the difference of our stations in life, nor had I any reason to repent my condescension, for he was really and not merely in appearance a very good kind of man. I could perceive he was rich, though he complained of his bad fortune, and plainly saw that this was only the better to hide his prosperity and not excite envy in a people always jealous of our industry and success, and at the same time possibly that he might the better be enabled to leave the country at a favorable opportunity. I begged of him to give me a good supper, assuring him that it would be the first since my leaving France. He promised he would, and kept his word, for I had one truly worthy of a governor's table, and afterwards was enabled to take a delicious night's rest, undressed, and between sheets, on a tolerably good bed, an enjoyment I had not experienced for a length of time. The plan I had arranged to purchase some nopals and cochineal on the succeeding day occasioned me to wake very early in the morning. I was up, therefore, by three o'clock, and taking with me two Indian servants belonging to the inn, each with a large basket and towels I repaired to the plantation of nopals I had seen the day before. I left the servants at the gate unentering, and myself took charge of their baskets. The negro owner was scarcely awake. He came towards me with a simple, modest, and civil air, quite different from what is usual among people of his stamp in the Kingdom of Mexico. I informed him that, being a physician, I wanted, for the purpose of making an ointment for the gout, a few leaves of the nopal with the cochineal upon them, which I begged him to sell me, as the case was urgent, telling him I was willing to pay for them whatever he might require. He permitted me to take as much as I pleased. I did not require twice bidding, but immediately selected eight of the handsomest branches, each two feet long, and consisting of seven or eight leaves in length, but so perfectly covered with cochineals as to be quite white with them. I cut them off myself, placed them in the best possible manner in the boxes, and covered them with the towels. I then inquired what they were worth. He protested they were well worth two reyals. I readily believed him. I who would not have held them dear at as many quadruples, but that I might not render him aware of how good a bargain I reckoned upon having made, I merely gave him a dollar, telling him I had no change, and begging him to keep the remainder to drink my health with. The good old negro rubbed his eyes, fanciing himself still asleep, and while he overwhelmed me with gratitude, I called in my Indians, loaded them with the two baskets, and made off with the rapidity of lightning. End of Section 13. Section 14 of Travels to Oaxaca by Nicholas Joseph Teary de Menonville, an anonymous translation from the French. This Librivox recording is in the public domain. My heart beat in a manner that beggars description. It seemed to me as if I was bearing away the golden fleece, but at the same time as if the furious dragon placed over it as a guard was following close at my heels. All the way along I kept humming the famous line, at length I have it in my power, and should willingly have sung it aloud, but for fear of being overheard. I arrived at my inn out of breath, and slipped in unperceived, and without having met with a single person in the streets. The dawn was opening, but nobody yet had risen in the house. I shut myself up in my room, and then packed my dear no-pals with inexpressible satisfaction, and in the tenderest manner imaginable, in two of my small boxes, taking the precaution to lay them two at top and two at bottom, separating them by the partition and sticks of a dry and pliant wood. Thus by five in the morning I found myself in possession of a fine cargo of cochineal, which not a soul had either seen me purchase or pack. The negro who sold it me was a simple good kind of man, and the Indians whom I liberally rewarded in joining them at the same time to secrecy, with respect to where they had been with me in the morning, were themselves ignorant of what the precious load they carried. Tranquil on this head I went to enjoy beneath some orange trees in the court, the pleasure of my reflections and the cool of mourning, waiting the period of my host rising. Never had the sky before appeared so beautiful, never the climate so pleasing. The day before my imagination was filled with monstrous chimera. This day everything was a charming aspect and admitted of my giving the reins to fancy. Whatever my future fortune may be, said I to myself, I have now completed the end of my journey. I may now set off, yes even directly. But no, vanilla, which I had been told, could be obtained no nearer than at a distance of twenty leagues hence. Vanilla comes, as it were, of itself to invite my taking it. Let us effect this second conquest. At length the people of the house roused from their slumbers. Breakfast was served up, to which I did more justice than any one, and at which I noticed a singular fruit. It was an apple, the pulp of which was soft and black as raisin. The Spaniards call it Sapota Negra. I opened several and took out their kernels. As I meant to set out at noon in search of vanilla, I ordered a good dinner to be provided for me at eleven o'clock. I then sent my compliments to the priest, Don José Ortiz, and reminded him of his promise, after which I dressed myself for the purpose of taking a survey of the city. My countryman, who was my guide, had the kindness to lend me a cloak. With this, my hair in a net, and my broad-brimmed hat, I looked perfectly a-spaniard, and had no longer the vexation to endure, of hearing constantly rung in my ears, Aquista Frances, there goes a Frenchman. We made the whole tour of the city, and I measured its streets. It appeared to me on this occasion even more handsome than it had done the day before. The only thing which seemed wanting, and which not only here, but throughout Spanish America, if Mexico be accepted, is everywhere a desideratum, is an alley of trees, or a promenade, one indeed had been planned here below the aqueduct. There are even basins of stone prepared for conducting water to it from a fountain. And this spot, its situation considered, would without doubt have been a most delightful one for a public walk. But the plantation was never carried into effect, and the whole plan dropped to the ground. We visited the market, one the best supplied of any I had seen since I left the Havana. I found in it all kinds of fruit, but what most forcibly struck me was the sight of raw cochineal exposed for sale. When I say raw, I mean undried, and with the insects, yet alive. The price of it was eight rails the pound. I at length returned home loaded with plants, leaves, and branches of all kinds, among the rest with a species of Palma Cristi, or Racinas, of an uncommon species, which I have since dispatched for the king's garden. After having packed my plants in my chamber, I went to a man who had been pointed out to me for one who let horses, and without a syllable said to my host on the subject who reckoned on having me as a guest at least for a fortnight to come, I hired five horses at eight rails each to carry me the next morning to San Juan del Rey. At eleven o'clock I had another meal worthy of a governor's table, and served with equal promptitude and elegance. But what again? Doubtless the reader in perusing this narrative will take me for an absolute glutton. But let him pause an instant. I was intoxicated with joy. I sought for gratifications as a compensation for my labors, and possibly this was of a less dangerous nature than another. For there surely could be no harm in strengthening my poor body, weakened by the fasts and bad fare it had endured, and rendering it capable of withstanding the mortifications it had yet to undergo. Don Ortiz had not forgotten me. By noon his horses were at my door. I immediately rose from table and leapt into the saddle, loading the mulleteer, my guide, with a linen sack four feet high, which I had bought for the purpose in the morning. After this we set off at full speed, each of us with a handkerchief round the head, covered by a large, flapped hat, and the crown of this surrounded with a cone-shaped cap of cotton to cause a divergency of the rays of the sun, a precaution highly necessary. We reached without halting a mountain, four leagues from the city, which it took us a quarter of an hour to ascend. After this we went down into a valley in which the farm of Don Ortiz was situate. The produce of the valley, nothing but wood and maize. We continued our journey two leagues further, when we met some people belonging to the farm. I wished to address them in order to know where we might find what we were in search of. But the mulleteer pretended to know Vanilla very well, and boasted that he could show it me, himself. We in consequence alighted, and during half an hour sought for it in vain among all the trees. I still waited for my mulleteer doctor to point it out to me, and at last, whether from ignorance, whether from design, he showed me instead of it an erum skadens, with palmaded leaves, the item of which it must be confessed, pretty much resembles that of Vanilla. I told him he was an ass, and that instead of thus making me lose my time, he would have done much better had he called for one of the Indians. It was, in fact, five o'clock, and I was under the greatest anxiety lest I should be obliged to return without the Vanilla, or have to sleep at the farm, which would defer my intended departure on the next morning. I was almost mad with vexation. At length an Indian with a hole in his hand made his appearance. Brother, said I, holding out a dollar, show me some Vanilla, and this is yours. He coolly bade me follow him, and advancing a few steps through the underwood into a thicket in which were a number of trees, he immediately climbed up one, threw down to me two pods of Vanilla perfectly ripe, and pointed out to me a branch on which several others were hanging, yet green, together with two faded flowers, of which the nectarium still remained. I recognized it for an epidendrum. The form of the leaves, the stone, and the fruit perfectly well described the peculiar smell of the plant, everything convinced me it was the real Vanilla, in everything corresponding with such I had seen at the house of Don Atenas at Vera Cruz. All the trees in this little copse were covered with it. I saw a quantity of green fruit, but collected no more than six specimens of these, and four large pods which were ripe. I caused the Indian afterwards to part from the root some of the scions which had sprung up. These I tied well together, wrapping up the hole in the leaves of an arum which at their base are three feet wide, after thus packing a faggot which weighed upwards of thirty pounds I placed it in my large sack, which I fastened on the rump of my horse. I was so well satisfied with my Indian that besides the gourd I had promised him I gave him in addition to Reals. For his part, unwilling to be outdone in generosity, he ran to his hut and brought me three other pods of Vanilla. Who now was more confused than my mulatto? For me, I was highly pleased with not having listened to him. We again mounted our horses, and we made such good speed that by nine in the evening we reached Oaxaca. I directed my guide to make my best respects to his master, and repeat how much I held myself obliged to him. I gave him for the use of the horses six piasters and two for his individual trouble, after which I again entered my inn with the Vanilla without anyone knowing what it was. It was late, and I supped by myself. After supper I desired my landlord and countryman to make out his account, and announced my departure on the next morning. He seemed greatly surprised at my intention, but answered that he had no demand to make, that he had entertained me with great pleasure as a countryman, but without any view of gain. I easily comprehended his drift, and presenting him three dollars inquired if that was sufficient. He still assumed that he had received me as a friend, and that I might pay him nothing if I pleased. Through this I dryly answered that he, being a Frenchman, was capable of discerning by my exterior manners, that I was not a person to be treated gratuitously by him, and that, moreover, his situation in life obliged him to sell his services to every one. I thought it right with this to add three more dollars to those I had placed on the table, at the same time requesting him to prepare me a few provisions. When our host noticed the tone I assumed, with a satisfied look, he placed the six dollars in his pocket, and in very polite terms returned me thanks, shortly after he sent me what I had required. I now shut myself up in my chamber, and passed a part of the night in examining and arranging all my plants in my boxes. Two of these were destined for the vanilla, which I marked and mingled with a thousand other plants collected at hazard. As while doing this, I frequently opened and shut the boxes, my hostess, on hearing the noise, became exceedingly curious, and sought to satisfy her inquisitiveness under pretense of making me a small present of chocolate. She therefore knocked three or four times at the door of my room, but I constantly objected to opening it, so that at last she was tired out, and decided on leaving the chocolate on a chair in the adjoining room. I slept but a little time. By four in the morning my horses being come, I awakened, my host. His astonishment was at its height, for I had not apprised him of the measures I had taken. My cases and baggage were all laid on my cattle in an instant. I mounted on one of the horses, and obliged the topoth to lead on the others before me at a good rate. Daylight had not yet beamed on Oaxaca when I set off. On account of my train I found the streets exceedingly long, for I was anxious to avoid examination and the excitement of curiosity. At length, by daybreak, I gained the open country. The morning was remarkably cool. I struck my heels into the sides of my horse, and increased our pace. My horses turned out to be excellent ones, and speeded so well that by half past seven we reached Egla, when, without halting for refreshment, I proceeded onwards to San Juan del Rey, occasionally alighting to gather plants. On the road I met with a doctor, who, conversing on the objects of culture, informed me that no Pauls had been transported into Castile for the purpose of attempting the naturalization of the cochineal, but that the project failed, from which he drew the very wise conclusion that it was impossible the culture of it should succeed anywhere but in the kingdom of Mexico. This anecdote, whether fabulous or true, was calculated notwithstanding to give me at the time some uneasiness. But now, while writing this, that I am well assured of the fallacy of the assumption, I cannot but smile at the folly of those people who make deductions which they generalize from circumstances true only in particular cases. By then I entered San Juan del Rey. It was eleven o'clock. I was in hopes of purchasing here some cochineal, but the black alcalde not being at home I determined to wait till his wife returned. She came in a little time, and I immediately asked her for four branches from her no Pauls, and without giving leisure for reflection showed her a dollar, which persuaded better than words. I, at the same time, inquired of her respecting a variety of matters which I had either omitted to obtain information upon before, or which I thought might be comparison with what I had learnt at Oaxaca, though chiefly respecting the mixture of the silvestry or wood cochineal with the black or fine. She illustrated the different points I questioned her upon and to my satisfaction, and permitted me to select four branches from the no Pauls which I placed in a fifth box. After taking a nap I set off precisely at noon, and again ascended the famous mountain La Costa, frequently casting back an anxious eye on the beautiful country I was about to leave. How numerous were the curious plants I beheld! How much did I regret my incapacity of carrying away specimens of all? I did, however, a light to pull up some of the bulbs of the lily of St. Yago, or Amaryllis Sermosissima. I collected six dozen of the roots, though with extraordinary difficulty, on account of there being a foot deep in the ground, and that, stiff and very hard as the soil was, I had nothing but a knife with which to remove it, while a vertical sun darted its noontide rays on my back. I likewise found a violet with a bulbous root, like that of the lily, of which I dug up a dozen roots. I gathered more over a hundred oxalis, sorals, with bulbous roots, folus octonatus pilatus osatus. I, moreover, gathered some seeds of a thistle, large as our artichoke plants, some of the fruit of a sort of meddler, some of the sabina juniperus, and certain acorns, large as our largest walnuts. While thus endeavoring to dissipate the tiresomeness incidental on a long journey, I perceived that my mulitiae had turned out of the king's highway, which topoths are expressly forbidden to do, and I was violently enraged at his conduct, promising within myself, at least, to hold his drink guilt or drink money. However, we began to descend by roads, very bad it is true, but which lessened our way by a league. I then allowed that my guide was not so much in the wrong and was pacified. At the bottom of the slope I found the beautiful sage with corn-rose flowers, which I had seen at Oaxaca. From this I extracted seeds, as well as from another variety with blue and highly beautiful flowers. While threading a narrow path cut out of the rock I had a singular encounter. It was of an Indian who was driving two hogs to Oaxaca. They were of monstrous size, and I was obliged to stand aside in order to allow them to pass. While in consequence I was attentively looking at them, I observed, and not without a hardy laugh, at the while, that they had pumps or rather boots on. What said I to myself? A hog in pumps, or the poor Indian that drives them is barefoot? The hogs had, really, on each of the joints of their parted hoof, a boot with a sole of strong leather, and the hole so neatly sewed and fitting with such exactitude that at first I thought them natural appendages belonging to the animal. It was in vain for me to puzzle my brain for the reason of such a whim, and I was feigned to apply for information to the Indian. For him he seemed to pity my ignorance, astonishment and laughter, and in a very phlegmatic manner answered that it was to prevent their becoming foot sore. Reflection made the motive seem but reasonable, for the animals were so fat and are naturally so lazy that if they wound their feet they would have fallen away and even have remained on the road. When at dinner, at an after-period, with the intendant of Santa Domingo, on his asking me respecting the roads in Mexico, I felt a strong inclination of relating this fact in order to qualify him to form himself an opinion. But as there was a large company at table to whom I was unknown, I was fearful on giving account of a circumstance so singular to pass for an inventor of fables. I therefore merely answered his interrogation by telling him in general terms that I found them very bad, and in good truth, though the road I was now traveling was that of Guatemala, and the only highway on which is transported the various produce of a valley, which extends four hundred and eighty leagues, I did not find thirty leagues of road on which a carriage could pass. After a long journey of sixteen larger leagues, I again revisited my charming hamlet of Galeatitlan, I saluted it on arrival full of gratitude, for its having first presented me with a delightful spectacle of a plantation of no-palls. It was too late, and I was too much fatigued, to visit the Indian into whose grounds I had entered on my way to Oaxaca. I therefore thought only of getting my supper and retiring to rest. I slept but little. I had judged it requisite to give air to my plants, and for the purpose placed my boxes opened in the court of the Casa Real, and every half hour paid them a visit. In the intervals between I took a walk in the churchyard, which was at no great distance. A beautiful moonlight showed me the way, and with pleasure I collected the roots of Amarilis from the tomb. At this instant, calling to mind the night thoughts of young, I said to myself, Is it then really consequent that reflection on the immortality of the soul should give rise to melancholy as the case with that gloomy doctor? By no means, but rather, let us, while through this veil we speed, cull every floweret in our way. At two in the morning I again closed my cases, carried them indoors, and laid down to sleep till dawn. As soon as I arose I hastened to the garden of my Indian. The cochineal harvest had been gathered, and I merely took from him four plants of the nopal, which had already rooted, and for which I gave him six reals. It is to be observed that I birthened myself with these nopals, and with four other plants which I collected at San Antonio de los Quays, apparently from an excess of caution, and that I might not have anything wherewith to blame myself. But how wise this caution will be seen, for all of the branches loaded with cochineal, which I had bought at Oaxaca and San Juan del Rey, and on which I placed my chief dependence, not one was preserved to the end of my voyage, as I had the affliction of seeing them all rot one after the other, and of being obliged to throw them into the sea while traversing the gulf of Mexico. It was to those plants on which I placed the least reliance that I had to ascribe the ultimate success of my project, as these were the only ones which survived the voyage and which have multiplied. The Indian who sold me the nopal plants was the same who let me my horses, and his son acted as my topoth. This afforded me means to hold a very interesting conversation, and acquire considerable information respecting that culture to which he paid his chief attention. It was this man who presented me with some of the fibrous network of the cocoa, of which he informed me the nest for the cochineal was made. It was from him also I understood, and at his plantation that I saw, that the mother cochineals for the succeeding harvest are preserved in open air and on the same plant, and not as a bird by the abbey Rinal, and that even in his last addition, on detached branches put under shelter in the house. I made, as very natural, remark on hearing this, that I should have thought them liable to be destroyed by the rains. But this objection he set at rest by the answer he gave, which was that in the stormy season of the year, s'etappen con petales, they are sheltered under leaves. At the plantation of this Indian, I likewise, as I had done before in some of the churchyards, collected some buds of a beautiful syringa asperifolus lilac, but they perished. One on point of departure with his son, we perceived near a fountain his young sister, who at that instant was fetching water. She was a lovely brunette, about nine or ten years of age, with blue eyes and the most beautiful complexion. I had just before given her a real. She drew nigh her brother, and without uttering a syllable slipped it into his hand. My poor brother, she no doubt reasoned, is now about to travel on foot over six weary leagues of ground for merely a wretched real, and which even my father puts in his pocket, and has but four tortillas and some pimento for his dinner. Suppose I give him this real. He will be able to fare better and better be able to endure the tediousness of the way and the burning heat of the sun. Such, in short, was the reflection I read in the expressive eyes, full of interest and compassion of this amiable child, and in the look of gratitude the young lad directed at his sister. I was deeply affected by this little incident. Come hither my child, said I. She came, blushing and uneasy about the motive of my calling her. I gave her another real, which I bade her keep for herself. The little maid laughed with joy, took the real, and turned her back on me, without the slightest thanks. But what thanks were necessary? Did she not smile? Throughout the whole morning I amused myself with pleasing reflections on fraternal love, and this incident confirmed me in the idea I had ever entertained, that a tender affection for their brothers is not uncommon with females, and that it could not have been scenes like this which originated the observation of rara concordia fratrum. Incidents like these it is which render one disposed to love mankind, but how rare are they in large associations of the species. And where did I meet with this? Was it not among the steepest mountains in the most distant parts of America, amid people little removed from the wild state of nature. End of Section 14 Section 15 of Travels to Oaxaca by Nicholas Joseph Thierry de Menonville An anonymous translation from the French. This Librevox recording is in the public domain. After preceding three leagues on my way I met a herd of swine, consisting of about sixty, all of them in new boots. Now indeed said I, accosting the Indian who was driving them along, I plainly see that this is not a mere whim, but a fashion, quite the fashion of the country. In truth now all that these gentry want to draw down not only admiration, but even the envy of their drivers would be to make an addition to their dress, dress of a cloak, hat, and ruffles, but all I could say failed of exciting a smile, for the Indian was of a most grave and serious turn of mind. When I arrived at Atlet Oaxaca I was obliged to go to the rector to change some gold. He appeared to me to have great partiality for this shining metal, and to be ready, if needed, to give me silver for all I had. He showed me the stuffed skins of two animals, which he called tigers, but which were just as much the skins of tigers as of Mexican bears. Of this I am satisfied, as at an after-period I bought some of both the one and the other. These much smaller those of the rector were six feet in length, from head to tail, and two feet and a half in height. The head, face, hair, and teeth of them were similar to those of the cat, but the color of the hair was that of the fawn, very bright, perfectly smooth, and without any longitudinal stripes or oscillary spots. These monstrous animals, said to be very ferocious and sanguinary, had been killed within two leagues of the village. Would I could have borne them away with me? The rector would assuredly have parted with them for gold. On dismissing my topoth I gave him another Real, as well because he was the brother of the sweet little Indian girl, as because he had conducted himself with propriety, and that on such occasions I seldom restricted myself to abiding by the regular prescriptions for drink-money. These kind of people are commonly so wretched, and at the same time appeared to me so worthy that I always considered a Real or two extra not idly thrown away. I again crossed the numerous windings of the River de las Hueltas, and again with the like impatience and vexation, but at the same time with less inconvenience on account of being better mounted. I was unable, however, to reach Dominkio before night, where I again met with a jubilee and procession. For it had been ordained, I think, that from Paris to Mexico had I gone, I should constantly see nothing else. This one I found interesting. The music of the charming Salve Maria, which I took down in notes, is really excellent. It was sung in chorus, the parts given in perfect unison, and was a piece of music altogether capable of pleasing even the most delicate. When justice and peace, tired of living with mortals, by whom they daily were insulted, abandoned for ever their ungrateful hosts, fame says they took refuge in heaven from whence they came. The rumor here was wrong. After wandering over the different portions of the globe, constantly vagabonds and constantly abused, these celestial beings withdrew to a corner of North America. Yes, the village of Don Dominkio, this little hamlet, simple in appearance, unadorned by the meretricious works of art, but rich but charming from its sight on the slope of a hill at the confluence of the Rio Grande and that of Las Huertas, appeared to them worthy of their abode, and here I enjoyed the mild preference of these amiable but slighted powers. The circumstance which called for this remark I shall relate. While I was at supper I sent for a topoth, with whom I had entered into contract for furnishing me with horses for quicatlán. The nave had the address to cheat me of three piosters, without my noticing the fraud, his lively and seemingly ingenuous looks, and possibly the cares with which my head were filled, combined to lay me open to deception. The keeper of the Casa Real, however, perceived the fraud and pointed it out to me, but the topoth was already out of sight with my money. In the meantime, after the procession, while walking in the public square, I saw two Indians carrying each of them a staff six feet long on which they supported both their hands. I paid at first but little attention to this incident, till at length I heard a cry repeated thrice in the Mexican language and three whistles. In an instant my rogue of a guide presents himself out of breath with running, and makes a number of low bows to the men with staffs, the distinctive marks of their office. The one was the Alcalde, the other his assessor. As I saw them advancing towards me I met them half way. In my presence in a very deliberate manner they interrogated the topoth respecting the number of horses I had requested, and the price he had asked. He confessed the whole he had asked, except to Real's. They next inquired of me how much I had paid. I told them the exact sum. Turning next to the topoth they asked him if he had shown me the table of fares. And on his confessing that he had never even mentioned it to me, the Alcalde very severely, though at the same time without the least symptom of passion, reprimanded him, first for having exacted more than the ordinance prescribed, and secondly for having stated the sum he had received at two Real's less than what it really was. While they were speaking I minutely observed, by help of the moonlight, the features of these simple officers. They exhibited not the least symptom of rage or indignation, nor even the least emotion. Immutable as the law, they judged and decided by its rule, and never did senator, counselor, or judge, with all their sumptuous paraphernalia of office, in silk and ermined robes, in scarlet or in black, in coronettes, caps, or para-wigs. Never, I say, did either look more august or majestic than did, on this occasion, these poor and tattered Indians. After convicting the culprit on his own confession, they made him restore the whole sum he had received, after which, entering my apartment, where it was a light, they attempted to calculate what was justly his due. But little use to handle money they were unable to succeed, and I was obliged to take upon myself this task, when having shown to their satisfaction, that I had given three dollars and two reals more than I should have done to the topoth, the Alcalde restored them to me, and gave the remainder to the topoth, enjoining him to have his horses ready at the hour appointed. I was dumb with admiration. I thought myself in a dream, a judgment so un-artificial, so speedy, so perfectly equitable, was what I could not conceive, actuated by the enthusiasm by which I was filled. I gave the casserole, by whose instituting the process I had enjoyed this interesting spectacle, a dollar, and begged the Alcalde to keep in his own hands the three dollars and two reals for the purpose of distributing them among the poor of the Hamlet. I would willingly have given had I means a thousand piasters to have perpetuated the memory of this honorable act of justice, for it cannot be disguised that the best means of enforcing among mankind the practice of wisdom and virtue is to honor and reward even the most insignificant actions which denote its existence. Men always act from some interested motive, and what motive can be regarded as more valuable than that which has for its end the esteem of one's fellow creatures and posterity. Let us then but applaud good actions, and those same applause will prove the seeds of others. With these pleasing fancies I retired to rest, and sweet was the slumber I enjoyed, but at two in the morning solicitous of making a long day I awoke my topoth. The rogue was out of temper, which I noticed the most plainly in the passage of Rio Grande. In this river I saw an animal swimming, which I took to be either a crocodile or a caiman, though its muzzle did not yet seem to be so long as theirs. I inquired what animal it was, but instead of informing me in order to prevent the gratification I might receive from satisfying my curiosity by a more minute examination, the malicious rogue picked up a stone and threw it with such nicety that at eighty paces distant he struck it on the head which occasioned it to dive under water, and it did not appear again. At dinner he met with his reward as I neither gave him a meal nor money to buy drink as I was else accustomed to do. I reached Quiquatlan at nine, and after purchasing a provision of bread left that place at ten, passing without stopping by the guard-house, the chief of it whose goodwill I had ensured on passing before. Whether on this account, whether owing to his being employed in counting the mules laden for Oaxaca, paid no attention to mine, but made a sign to my topoth to proceed without unloading his cases. I squeezed his hand in token of gratitude and clapped spurs into my horse. But little afternoon, the sun almost added zenith and vertical above me, I had to climb the terrible and fatiguing mountain Quiotpec. I found it necessary in order to bear up against the distress occasioned by the toil and the heat of the day, to seek revivification and advertence to my worthy and faithful friends in France. This was my ordinary practice. Perpetually were they present to my imagination, and often did I hold converse with them. Oh, could you only see me here, said I, and with what formidable difficulties I have to contend. Then, partners of my heart, then would you learn the cost at which I seek to merit your esteem. At length I attained the summit of the mountain, by half past one, as I found by the clock then striking at Quicatlane, the sound of which I still distinguished, and by three had attained its foot on the banks of the Rio Grande. Here it was I first saw the Sylvester cochineal on a Macthorne cactus, with leaves nearly round. I took away two articulations, which I preserved for a long time at sea, but which at last decayed. I had laid in a store of bread, but this was not enough. I recollected the bad fare I had to expect if I depended on the supply of the hamlet whether I was journeying. Unfortunately I saw an Indian who had just been fishing. In answer to my interrogatory of what success he had experienced, I learned he had caught a trout, but this pretended trout turned out to be a species of mullet, which, however, was delicious. While changing horses at Quixotepec, I gathered from the margin of a fountain a panoratium folus lingulatus striptissimus, which I continued to cultivate at Port-au-Prince. But on this occasion, my curiosity, or rather my imprudence, for I made use in raising the plant of my hands, was nigh costing me dear. A serpent, four feet long, of a yellowish color, issued from the ground I had just been disturbing, but without doing me the least injury, it glided under some other plants. This serpent was the first that I met with in my botanical collections in North America. Further on, on crossing the Rio Grande, I saw a Lelatius plant, less eminent, but which was similar to that I had found on the brink of the fountain at Quixotepec. I did not reach Lasquace before half past nine at night. I was dying of hunger, and my fish was most welcome. It was so large, even that I was unable to spare a part for my topoth, who had been able to procure nothing better throughout the whole hamlet than a couple of tortillas of blue maize, so much resembling pieces of slate in their appearance, that I was obliged to bite them in order to be convinced of the contrary. As sauce for these, he had some little chili. The next day, Trinity Sunday, I proposed, as it would be the last time I should meet with plantations of nopals, to make some fresh purchases of nopal and cochineal. Informed of the existence of them at this place by my Franciscan, on seeking I readily found them. Nay, there was one close even to the house at which I lodged. This, however, did not appear to have been sown, so thinly was the cochineal spread over the leaves. I then entered another in which were many young plants that had taken root and were loaded with fine cochineal. I was very solicitous of procuring some of these, but the owner was at mass. In a third I met with some women who consented to sell me eight branches richly loaded for tendreals. This was rather dear, especially when compared with what my good negro of Oaxaca had asked me. But on my expressing such to be my opinion, they remarked to me that there was upon them at least twelve ounces of cochineal. And on the other hand, these were what I wanted. I saw in addition the plantation of a poor cultivator who was drying the seeds of the cactus with which to make bread. The garden had not been planted more than fifteen months, and from him for six reals I bought as many small rooted plants. He was willing even to have spared me a greater number, and at this rate even would gladly have parted with his whole garden, but I was now most amply supplied and had great difficulty to stow my last purchase. I, however, succeeded and set off with my cases, mounted on an ass which transported me to San Antonio by noon, according to the estimation I made by a singular means. I noticed that the ears of my ass at every turn, whether eastward or westward to the north or the south, constantly both the one and the other threw their shadow on the earth at an equal distance from the head and body, the shade of which the latter was immediately under the belly of the animal, followed that the sun must be at its zenith, and consequently that the hour was noon. This meridian, so novel and so whimsical, made me laugh much, and for an instant consigned to oblivion my cares and jading ride. At San Sebastiano I swallowed two new-laid eggs and immediately set off again with excellent horses. The one I rode, however, was difficult to manage, and had no bridle, a circumstance to which I failed to pay attention on setting off, or till I had left the village. Everything, however, went on well until I reached San Antonio. Thrice had I alighted to collect seeds from plants, and Thrice had I again quickly mounted. But the fourth time the restive beast rising on its hind legs struck at me on the stomach with the four ones, and with such force as to fell me to the ground. Not content, he spurned again his hind legs at me and galloped away at full speed. For an instant I thought all was over with me, and far as the little power of reflection allowed which remained with me, I was anxious only for my dear cochiniel. I dreaded lest it would yet remain buried in Mexico, and be forever lost to my country. The thought went near to kill me, however resuming, after a few incidents, the faculty of breathing, and my stomach by degrees recovering its tone, I gathered that I did not immediately need extreme unction. Collecting strength I rose, though with great difficulty, and drew as a conclusion from the incident that a botanist should travel on foot. I took no trouble about the horse, it carried away not any of my property, and should I have recovered I should not have mounted him again. So, giving him heartily to the devil, I continued my journey on foot at a very gentle pace, quit for a few grazes and a torn jacket. In vain did I call after my topoth, who traveled at a brisk rate before me, and when I arrived at San Francisco I found he had already been there an hour. I related to him what had happened, and was apprehensive he might insist on my paying for the runaway, but he was satisfied with merely asking for a note, which might account for his not taking it back, which I gave him, stating the restiveness of the animal and the want of a bridle as the cause. I moreover presented my guide with four reales for himself. The next day I took care to be provided with gentler horses and more complete furniture, and by ten o'clock arrived in sight of Tehuacan. In the course of my journey I remarked a Nicotiana tobacco plant with narrow and pointed leaves, which was conspicuous as a weed among the corn of this beautiful plain. I was anxious to pass round Tehuacan as I had done on my way coming, but with all my baggage this was not practicable, and the topoth in short flatly refused. It was necessary therefore I should travel through it. The town appeared to me a desert, and I compared it to those enchanted cities the work of a genie, when a magician of the most formidable kind in my eyes made his appearance before me, and drove away the pleasing ideas of enchantment. This magician was no other than a stout, sharking customs officer mounted on an excellent horse. His saddle-bow beset both in front and behind with pistols. This redoubted champion advancing summoned me in the king's name to return to the customs house. I answered to him in a tone of voice which denoted vexation that I certainly should pay all the respect due to the king's orders, but that if he had had the least notion of civility he would not have suffered me to have rode through the whole of the town nearly for the pleasure of making me return. However high the tone I assumed my heart was chilled with fear. The word customs house turned my brain, and I gave up all for lost. I shall have said I to open all my cases. My pilferings will all be exposed. There may be laws which prohibit the transport of cochineal on no pauls. Nay, this ought necessarily to form a part of the policy and ordinances of this people. One so anxious to maintain the exclusive possession of this commerce. Should this be the case, I do to all my treasures. All will be ravished from me and confiscated. What grief for me! What shame! Cursed encounter! Unlucky travels! I was in a dreadful state, though it must be allowed that at times danger affords resources which are gathered merely from its presence. On reaching the customs house I instantly determined on my plan. Composing my countenance therefore I entered with an easy air, and expressed much discontent at the trouble which had thus unnecessarily been occasioned me. I found two Spaniards in the office, one of whom the Director lessened my color by the affable and prepossessing manner in which he received me. I told him that I was a botanist, that I had been employed in collecting medicinal plants throughout the whole province, with which my trunks were full, and that I had with me nothing else. I added moreover that I begged they would satisfy themselves on this head, and proceed through the examination as speedily as possible, as I was solicitous of reaching Vera Cruz for the purpose of going on shipboard. The Director said that this was enough, and entered into the most friendly conversation with me. However, I not withstanding caused my boxes to be opened, although against his inclination for the purpose of satisfying him, and out of bravado toward his deputy, who appeared to be inquisitive and suspicious. On looking over the cases, in which among a variety of herbs and roots, with which he was altogether unacquainted, was the vanilla, which was equally unknown to him. He shrugged up his shoulders and smiled. I opened others which contained cochineal, covered and mingled with other plants. Aquista Grana, this is cochineal, said he, apparently with surprise, but at the same time with an air of indifference, which argued nothing, displeasing. In my notice of his observation I seemed equally indifferent. He afterwards noticed the double bottoms, and fancied for an instant he had caught his bird, signifying as much by a glance, which at the same time seemed to hint that he could shut his eyes occasionally to what he could not see without injuring. But rendered bold by the assurance I had acquired that no objection would be taken to my cochineal, I raised the bottoms, partitions, and the pieces of wood which separated the plants, when my no-pals were distinguished among other plants, carefully folded in fine white paper. What are these no-pals for, this cochineal? For an unduant, for what malady, the gout? Ah, ah, but do see exclaimed he then, laughing heartily as he pointed out among my collection the nuts of the most common fruits of the country, and seeds even of its most despised herbs. The director now obliged me to shut all my cases. Before I did this I picked up even the smallest leaves which had fallen, but with so much care that they could entertain not the slightest doubt of my placing on them a value far greater than on the cochineal. They could not, indeed, help admiring to see a Frenchman come from such a distance to collect some of the meanest herbs of the country, and frankly confessed that no Spaniard could be found possessed of equal resolution. Walking in the court I saw drying in the sun the fruit of a certain cactus, not larger than currents. In turn I inquired what use it was applied to. To making of tarts was the answer. He invited me more over to taste them. I found them delicious and preserved some of the grains. From all he had seen the director concluded within himself that I was an eminent doctor, and in consequence entreated me to visit a friend of his who was ill. I told him that unless his majesty himself required my assistance I could on no account procrastinate my stay. At the same time I inquired of him to whom I had to address myself to obtain horses. He informed me I must apply to the Alcalde Mayor. The circumstance displeased me. I apprehended a second inquisition, and could not hope perpetually to be favored as I had hitherto been by good fortune. However no choice was left, nor could I draw back. I therefore paid him a visit, and found him employed with a man dressed in black, whom at first I mistook for the Alcalde himself. It was not long however before I was undeceived. Don Marcos Chopin, Cavallero de San Yago, Gobernador de Tehuacán, Alcalde Mayor informed me in person that it was he to whom I had to address myself. He conversed with me with an affability, a suavity of manners which could not be surpassed by the most amiable among our French gentry, and immediately directed an Aguacil to go in search of horses for me. I entreated that they might be gentle and with good bridles, as a cause of which injunction I related the adventure which had befallen me. He laughed hardly at my narrative, and observed that I must in this case have been but an indifferent horseman. Pardon me, senor, replied I, but my horse was unusually restive.