 Hey, guys, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I've got a very special, just quick repair discussion that I want to talk to you about. And this is one of the most important PVM repairs and honestly preventative maintenance that you need to do if you own any of the PVMs I'm going to be talking about today. It's very important and I want to go through this. Now, I got an email and I'm going to read it to you a little bit, but I'm going to tell you about this issue and I wanted to make a video about this because unfortunately, this is a very big problem once it gets to the level that this guy has for his or any PVM. So let's just first get into the question and then I'll tell you about what happened in this instance and what you could do to prevent it and what you have to do after the fact to get your PVM fixed. So we're going to skip past a little bit of the introduction here, but this guy's talking about he had some problems with this 14M4. So if you have a 14M4, this is definitely it. But after this, I'll tell you the other models that are affected by this same problem because it covers a huge number of the Sony PVMs. So let's just go through it real quick. I bought a Sony PVM14M4U and it had three red, green, and blue lines at the top of the screen. They were visible in the main menu and on the main screen. The lines had shifted down through the menu onto the screen a bit and it was still visible. So he went into the menu and if you Google this problem, that's the first thing you're going to see is to go into vertical blanking 60 and he changed the value on the line until the lines went above the viewing area and they finally disappeared. And everything was fine or appeared fine. As that happened, he was happy and he started using the monitor for a little while and all of a sudden, in the middle of using it, the screen went blank. He lost all his, most of his power on his screen. He can't get an operating system to pull up at all anymore and really nothing, but he did send a little video. I'll show you in a minute. Now he said he had, you know, tried to get in and unplug it and run the degauss button. But unfortunately, what happened was the monitor went too far and I'll kind of explain it a little bit more. But first let's take a look at his video here and you can just see where he has just a slight throbbing on his screen and really nothing else, just a slight throbbing, very weak and dim screen and it's very unfortunate what happened, see how, and then it just shuts off, okay? So again, this problem will affect a lot of PVMs. Now this is a video I did show in you how to make this preventative measure and I'll put a link to it and I'll tag it on this video. I made it about a year ago almost and it tells you how to go in and fix this problem permanently because the OSD method of moving those lines by using this blanking, I'll show it, I'm just gonna play this video and I'll talk about it as I go, but if you show the blanking and just move the blanking up, you're just temporarily fixing it, you're not actually fixing the problem. I actually had a discussion with Jose Cruz who's a really good moderate and talented CRT repair man from New York. He was talking to me at a convention this year, we discussed a lot of CRT repair and especially PVMs and we were talking specifically about this red, green and blue line stuff. So as you see, the first thing I'm gonna do is go into the submenu and show you that OSD vertical blanking and how you adjust that and it temporarily moves those lines out of the way. Now you can understand, this one has them right down in the middle, so that's pretty extreme, but most of the time you'll see them maybe a little bit higher, however, this is a big problem. So after I talked with Jose for a while, we realized that Sony actually put out a memo after developing these PVMs and you see how I make the adjustments and it messes with the blanking and the menu, but if you go in and you do what I did right here and just get it out of the way, that's just a temporary fix because these problems have already caused capacitors to go bad. So the main problem here is there are two capacitors that Sony have originally placed on the circuit boards, the main circuit boards and those two capacitors are not high enough tolerance, they weren't originally high enough tolerance to last long, they were actually not high quality enough or they didn't have enough voltage allowed through them to not get burned out real quickly and Sony realized the problem, so they sent out this to all people in the field, the techs, so that if they came across this problem, they could fix it. But again, it's just two capacitors on here that are really causing this issue and so I'm gonna skip ahead a little bit and we'll take a look at the main chassis here on this PVM and it's right in here, the two capacitors that have to be changed, they are C572 and C584, okay? And I'm gonna point them out in this video and again, I show you how to repair them, you just have to replace these two, but they are literally right next to this hot heat sink, okay, right next to this hot heat sink and what happens is this area gets so hot right in this area where you've got this IC and then you've got this coil right here and you've got just a lot of heat, these resistors and as that heat builds up, these capacitors fail, these two specifically and these two specific capacitors control your, that OSD or those red, green and blue lines, it keeps them from falling into your screen so if they failed, it falls into the screen. Now the reason, again, I'm getting into this repair so much is because if you keep going and pushing the OSD, you can kill your PVM, okay? You could literally cause it to pop and that's what's happened to Samin who wrote the question. So what he did was these failed, he kept pushing it through the OSD and what happens then is that tends to make, it's either this IC right here, this picture, it will pop and then a separate IC actually on the power supply unit will pop and then the transformer that is the flyback transformer pops and so you have those three parts that will blow out if you continue to push that menu up into the OSD. It's literally a ticking time bomb that you're gonna have, it could happen in five minutes, it could happen in 20 hours but eventually if those capacitors fail and you keep pushing that up through the OSD setting, blanking setting, you're going to possibly ruin your PVM. Now I did want to tell you which models this specifically affects. So this is gonna affect anything that's like the 50 series. So that starts with the 1350, the 1351, the 53, the 54s, 54 queues and that could be 1350 whatever, 1450s and 1950s and 2050s if you're in a different region and it also affects the M series. It was pretty much engineered I believe out towards the L series but those two series and it will also affect any of the comparable Olympus monitors that have the same problem. So if you've not changed these two capacitors, please go and watch the video in the link because it tells you there's a new value you could put into the capacitors that's a higher value that actually is recommended by Sony so that way in the future this won't really won't be a problem at all. They're actually higher tolerated for higher heat as well as higher tolerances on voltage and capacitance. So again, watch the video, make sure you do this because again if you have the problem you're better off leaving the red, green and blue lines on the screen than pushing them out and popping the fly back in those two ICs because the two ICs they're not as big of a problem. You can order them on eBay if they go out and they generally tend to $15 a piece. The big problem is the fly back transformer. I personally don't have any fly back transformers replacements even for sale but save on Pat he does tend to sell the fly back transformers for about $50 a piece. So if you can go in and originally do this repair without the, with just replacing the two capacitors you're gonna avoid the major repair down the road that's gonna cost you a ton more in parts. I mean it's gonna cost you $80 in parts and a lot to get a fly back changed and everything like that because that's a pretty professional job. But if you go in and you have any ability to change these capacitors or even anybody that you may know locally that can change these capacitors get them to do it for you because two capacitors are literally gonna cost you less than $3 generally and you could get them in there and that's for high quality ones. So you have to change the caps on here. Again, you can't keep pushing it out because eventually the screen will pop like happened to our friend unfortunately and what's that happens? It's a much larger repair. And again, this was just something that was built into these monitors improperly at the time they were made. So again, I just can't reiterate enough if you have any of the models that I talked about again today those are the M series, the Olympus OEV series that's a 203 and a 202 or a 142 and a 143. And then if you have any 14M4 M2s, 20M4 M2s, anything like that and that any of those 50 series they all have this same basic setup inside the main chassis where they have these two failed capacitors. And if you can't do anything else in your monitor you wanna change these two capacitors because again, it's just a matter of time when these things will eventually fail if they haven't already and you don't wanna have to do it's a huge job to go in and change a flyback. So again, that was just something I had talked about with Jose. I don't actually have a copy of the bulletin. If I do, I'll come back and put a link to that if I can find it, but it was again something that Sony actually put out. And if you get like a cap kit from Save On Pat or even myself for any of these monitors we actually have these included as part of the cap kit. These and a few others that were recommended to go and be different values just with a higher capacitance and higher voltage. And also just newer Nishikon. I use Nishikon high quality caps that will last a whole lot longer than the ones that were originally in there. But hey, if you guys have any other questions about this or any other repair feel free to drop it in the comments below. And I don't know if you could tell but over my shoulder here you'll see the big JVCD series. I'm planning on getting to that this week. We're gonna go ahead and start ripping that apart. So I hope you're all excited to see that. I've also got a lot more restorations, unboxings. A lot of stuff's come in the mail over the holidays and I'm really excited to get back with more restorations, CRT talk and a whole lot more this year in 2020. So guys, thanks again for watching. And again, leave me a comment if you have any questions or comments about this particular repair or really any repair that has to do with these CRTs. And I'll try to get back to you as quickly as possible. But thanks again and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content.