 This Civil Engineer Air Force Qualification Training Program videotape contains programs on circular saw and reciprocating saw. The Air Force Civil Engineer Support Agency has developed the following video to support the Air Force Qualification Training Program. This video covers step-by-step procedures for a specific task identified in the specialty training standard of the career field education and training plan. The procedures represent standardized methods of accomplishment for personnel in the structural career field. This video does not take the place of on-the-job training. It is not intended to replace the applicable technical reference for a particular task or piece of equipment. However, this program is intended to enhance the on-the-job training process, standardize the training procedures for a task or piece of equipment, provide just-in-time training for a particular task or piece of equipment, and provide the minimum knowledge on a task or piece of equipment when a unit does not have the equipment. We hope you'll find this video a valuable training tool. The next time you drive by a house being built, pull over and take a moment to listen to the different sounds. These are the sounds of progress. One sound that's easy to identify is that of the circular saw. Its high-pitched screech stands out. Without this saw, construction will really slow down. The Air Force structural mission is very similar to civilian construction. It doesn't matter if it's the middle of the winter in Bosnia or somewhere in the desert of Southwest Asia. Circular saws are one of our primary tools of the trade. This program will address safety features for safe operation, preparing the saw for use and operating the saw to make the various cuts. As with any tool, the first thing a smart operator will do is take the time to read the owner's operating guide. This information is vital to you and your fellow worker's safety. Read all the instructions. Accidents can and do happen. You don't want to be a statistic. The safety rules outlined in the owner's operating guide are numerous. They range from avoid cutting nails to do not carry the saw while it's operating. They're all important. We want to focus on several that cause the most trouble. First is the on-off switch. To operate the switch, press the trigger to start the saw. When the trigger is released, the saw will no longer function. There are numerous blades on the market. They come in a variety of sizes and are made for different applications. There are specific blades for framing and rip, carbide tipped, combination and cross cut. Just to name a few, make sure you have the right blade for the job. Also make sure the blade is installed properly on the saw. Each blade will have a directional arrow marking. This arrow must be matched up to the directional arrow on the saw blade guard. Double check the blade direction and make sure it is tight. Eye and ear protection is required when working with the circular saw. Probably the most common hazard you'll encounter is called kickback. When the blade is pinched or binds, the motor reaction will drive the saw rapidly back toward the operator. Using a dull blade or improperly supported material will increase the tendency for kickback. Pressure treated lumber, wet lumber or green lumber requires special attention during the cutting operation to prevent kickback. These are not by any means all the safety rules you need to be familiar with. Read the owner's operating guide. You'll be glad you did. As with any power tool you aren't familiar with or haven't operated in a while, take a few moments to look it over to make sure it's serviceable. It may have been damaged by the last operator and just put back in its storage container. For the most efficient cutting, the blade cutting depth must be adjusted. This keeps the blade friction to a minimum, removes saw dust from the cut and results in a cooler, faster cut. On the back of the circular saw you'll find a depth adjustment lock lever and a calibrated depth bracket. Loosen the lever and raise or lower the foot to the desired setting. What is the correct setting? The easiest way to determine the blade depth setting is to place the saw across the end of the material to be cut. Lower the saw until one-tooth of the blade projects below the material to be cut. This setting will work for most blades and will keep the splittering to a minimum. The exception to this rule is carbide-tipped blades. They should be set to allow only one-half of the tooth to project below the material being cut. The angle of the cut can be set for a beveled cut up to 60 degrees or a vertical cut. Simply loosen the bevel lock adjustment lever at the front of the saw and angle the saw to the desired setting. The line guide is also located at the front of the saw to help you follow the line of cut. Because of the various blade thickness track, make a sample cut in scrap lumber to verify actual line cut. The guide's approximate line of cut may be off just a little. Also note that one side of the line guide is for the vertical cut and the other side is for the bevel cuts. The guide is marked accordingly. Bored to be cut should be placed on saw horses or secured to the workbench so that both your hands are free to operate the saw. If appearance is important, place the good side of the board down. This saw cuts upwards and has a tendency to splinter the wood when the blade comes through the top of the cut. Mark the line to be cut so that it is legible and easy to follow. Saw dust will easily obscure a light pencil mark and make it hard to follow. The particular cut we're about to make is referred to as a cross cut. Cross cut refers to cutting across the grain of material. Connect the power to the saw and double check your safety glasses and hearing protection. Place the front of the saw foot on the work with the guide edge lined up with the line drawn. Always hold the saw handle with one hand and the auxiliary handle or motor housing with the other. Before starting the motor, push the blade lightly against the edge of the work and then back off about a quarter of an inch. Start the motor and when the blade reaches full speed, push the saw into the work and begin sawing. As you begin cutting, the lower blade guard will automatically begin to telescope into the upper blade guard. Push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring. Never force the saw, use light continuous pressure. Hardness and toughness can vary even in the same piece of material and a knotty or damp section can put a heavy load on the saw. When this happens, push the saw slower but hard enough to keep it working without much decrease in speed. Should your cut begin to go offline, don't try to force the saw back on. Release the trigger and allow the blade to come to a complete stop. Pull the saw back, realign the cut mark and start a new cut just inside the wrong cut. As you finish a cut, allow the blade to stop before lifting the saw from the work. It doesn't matter if it's a vertical or bevel cut, they are both cut in the same manner just described. Our next situation calls for cutting a large sheet of material. It's often difficult to maintain a straight cut over the full width or length of a sheet. Clamp or nail a straight piece of wood to the sheet as a guide. Use the right side of the saw foot against the board as a board guide. Ply wood and long boards sag and bend if not adequately supported. If you attempt to cut without the proper support, the blade will tend to bind and cause kickback. If the ply wood or boards to be cut are too large for a table or workbench, they may be supported by 2x4's on the floor. The 2x4's should be positioned so that their broadest side supports the work and should be located close to the cut. This material is a little different from our previous cut, so make a blade change if necessary. Adjust the depth of cut and connect the power. Position the saw at the edge of the ply wood just as we did for the previous cut. Start the motor and when the blade reaches full speed, push the saw forward at a speed which allows the blade to cut without laboring. Never force the saw, use light continuous pressure. You may have to climb onto the material being cut since most people can't reach all the way across the sheet. As you finish a cut, release the trigger and allow the blade to stop before lifting the saw from the work. The finished cut should be straight and smooth. From the piece of ply wood just cut, we need to make a pocket cut. A pocket cut is an opening, usually a square or rectangle cut in the middle of sheet material. Once again, mark and support the material to be cut. Mark the lines as dark as possible. It will make cutting on the line a lot easier to see. Tilt the saw forward with the cutting guide notch lined up with the line you've drawn. Raise the lower blade guard using the lift lever. With the blade just clearing the material, start the motor. Gradually lower the back end of the saw using the front end of the foot as the hinge point. As the blade starts cutting the material, release the lower guard immediately. When the foot rest is flat on the surface being cut, proceed cutting in a forward direction to the end of the cut. Allow the blade to come to a complete stop before lifting the saw from the cut. Never force the saw backwards since the blade will climb out of the material and kickback will occur. Turn the saw around and finish the cut in the normal manner. Continue sawing to other three sides in the manner just described. If the corners of the pocket are not completely cut through, use a hand saw or jigsaw to finish the corners. Depending on the size of the pocket and the number of pockets to be cut, other saws currently available may prove to be a better choice than the circular saw. The last type of cut we want to discuss is the rip cut. Rip cut refers to cutting with the wood grain. This type of cut would normally be done on a table saw. If a table saw isn't available, the circular saw can perform the same task by installing a rip fence. The rip fence will help keep the saw cutting straight over the length of the board. The key to using a rip fence is to accurately measure and set the fence at the desired width of the cut. A test piece cut will help validate the actual width of the cut. Rip cut saw operation is no different from the previous cuts you've made. Don't forget to provide adequate support to the material being cut. Unsupported material will increase the tendency for kickback. Continue sawing the entire length of the rip. Keep the fence tight against the edge of the material being cut. The rip fence will serve as the guide for the saw. The edge must be smooth and straight for the fence to follow. If it isn't, the final cut won't be straight. Real wide rip cuts cannot be accomplished with the rip fence. For wide rips, use the board method shown in the plywood discussion. From the information just provided, you can see that the circular saw is quite versatile. The number of tasks this saw can be used for is almost endless. Correct saw operation always begins with the owner's operating guide. This handy little guide is well worth the time it takes to read it. It'll not only refresh your memory, but man lighten you on another capability of the saw that you weren't familiar with. Saw operation entails a few basic steps that are repeated over and over again. Following these procedures will ensure successful task completion and further your career as a civil engineer structural technician. This concludes the circular saw portion of the program. After a short intermission, we'll continue with the reciprocating saw information. Not a big job to do that will require a lot of different types of sawing? A reciprocating saw might just be the saw you're looking for. The reciprocating saw looks a little different from most saws. Their power factor is greater so they can handle heavier and more varied types of work. This saw is ideal for maintenance type work, remodeling, roughing in, and areas where space is limited. Its blades range in length from 2.5 to 18 inches long. There are two types of blades, carbon steel and high speed. Carbon steel blades can cut wood, fiberboard, asphalt, aluminum, embedded nails, and similar materials. The high speed blades cut metals of various thickness, conduit, channel, hard rubber, and fiberboard. The reciprocating saw has many built-in features for safety, performance, and dependability. These features make the saw easier to operate. Do not attempt to operate this saw until you have thoroughly read and understand the owner's operating manual. Always keep the manual with the saw as others using the saw will need to read it as well. Let's take a closer look at some of the reciprocating saw key features. First is the on-off switch, which is located on the rear handle hand grip. Depress the switch trigger to turn on the reciprocating saw. Release the switch to turn off the saw. Also located on the on-off switch is the variable speed control selector. To adjust the speed and power of the saw, simply turn the control selector in a counterclockwise direction to decrease the speed and power. Clockwise rotation will increase the speed and power. When continuous cutting is required, engage the lock-on button. Depress the trigger switch and push in the lock-on button located on the side of the handle. Remove your finger from the trigger switch and the saw will remain running. To release the lock-on button, depress the trigger switch again. Do not use the lock-on button on heavy jobs where you may have to stop sawing quickly. Before any sawing can begin, you must choose the proper blade. Choosing the correct blade will produce smoother, faster cuts and prolong blade life. Ensure the electrical power is disconnected prior to installing the blade or making any adjustments to the saw. Some saws have a tool storage compartment for the wrench that is used to change the blade and adjust the base assembly. Loosen the blade clamp allen screw enough to permit the blade to slide between the blade clamp and the saw bar. Align the hole in the blade shank with the pin in the blade clamp. Seat both in the hole on the saw bar. Blades may be installed with the teeth directed either up or down depending on your cutting task. Tighten the blade clamp allen screw securely. Give a tug on the blade to make sure it won't fall out. The saw base assembly is free-floating. This permits the saw to follow the contour of the material being cut. The base assembly can also be adjusted up and down or turned to permit the use of different blade teeth on the same blade and for different types of cuts. Loosen the allen set screw to remove and position the base assembly. The base assembly has these positions that are used for regular blades. The base assembly may also be turned clockwise 90 degrees for flush cuts. A special flush cutting blade must also be installed. Operator safety is always of crime concern. Always wear safety goggles or glasses and hearing protection. If safety precautions are overlooked, they'll eventually bite you. Remodeling and maintenance type work can be quite hazardous. Don't start sawing without first locating and shutting off utility service. Electric wires, telephone and television cables and water lines can easily be cut with this saw. For general cutting operations, secure the material to be cut. Once the material has already been installed, verify that you won't cut something or cause something to fall on you or your coworkers. Make sure the power cord is clear because this saw is notorious for cutting them in two. Hold the saw comfortably in front of you with both hands. With the blade held just above the work, start the saw and then lower the blade into the material to be cut. Do not force the blade. Use only enough pressure to keep the saw cutting. When the blade has finished cutting through the material, release the trigger switch and remove the saw. Continue with the second cut following the procedures just described. Always hold the saw with two hands, one on the rear handle and the other on the front housing. Let the blade and the saw do the cutting. Don't force the blade. If the material isn't being cut very fast, you may have installed the wrong blade or the blade is worn out. This saw is also capable of making plunge cuts. A plunge cut is made in the middle of a piece of material such as sheet rock or plywood. You can start this cut anywhere inside the area to be cut. Align the blade tip with and hold it just above the cut line mark. Place the base assembly on the work and hold it firmly in place. Bring the blade up to full cutting speed and slowly tilt the saw downward until the tip of the blade starts cutting into the material. Gradually lower the blade into the work. After the blade penetrates the material, tilt the saw until the base assembly is flush with and perpendicular to the cut. In our particular case, we have an electrical outlet laid out to cut. It's a lot easier on the blade to cut in straight lines than try and turn the sharp corners. Cornering action puts a lot of unnecessary pressure on the blade and will shorten its life. As we mentioned earlier, the reciprocating saw can be used to cut metal. A special high speed steel blade is best for cutting metals less than an eighth of an inch thick. Tubing can also be cut with this blade as long as the wall thickness is an eighth of an inch or thinner. Clamp or hold the conduit firmly and cut close to that point to eliminate any vibration of the item being cut. Don't force the saw and you'll make a smoother and cleaner cut. The reciprocating saw can easily handle a plastic pipe cut by following procedures just described. The end result is a fast, smooth, neat cut. Thin pieces of sheet material are hard to cut by themselves. They'll vibrate and tear if not sanded. To make a sheet material sandwich, place the material between hardboard or plywood. Clamp the layers together. Start sawing and use only enough pressure to keep the saw cutting. Remember, you are cutting through three layers and two different types of material. When the blade has completed this cut, release the trigger switch and remove the saw. This technique should produce a lot better results. Another task the reciprocating saw can easily perform is cutting through wall studs and nails. This saw was made for remodeling projects. Choosing the correct blade will make these cuts a lot smoother and faster. As you can see from this view, the nails were no match for this versatile saw. From the information just presented, the reciprocating saw may just be the saw you've been looking for to satisfy that big project sawing requirement. The versatility of the saw makes it ideal for maintenance type work, roughing in, and work in areas where space is limited. The power of the saw makes light work of cutting most wood and plastic related products and metals less than an eighth of an inch thick. This saw will cut through just about anything, so always keep safety in mind as you might accidentally cut something important and real dangerous. It might be a good tool to take along on your next appointment. You never know what you'll need once you get there. This program was produced for headquarters, Air Force Civil Engineer Support Agency, Operations Support Directorate, Training Division. We would like to thank the Air Force personnel of the 366th Training Squadron, Detachment 6, Naval Construction Training Center, Gulfport, Mississippi, for their enthusiastic cooperation and support in the development of this program.