 Hi everybody. Thanks so much for tuning in. I am Danielle Downs representing Free Salon Education. We're going to be doing a perm rod set, which is great for natural hair for elongating and basically stretching out the hair plus your wash day. So it's something that when my hair was longer, I love doing just because it was something that I can just put on a cap at night, go to bed, rest easy and in the morning just fluff it out and go and not have to worry about it too much. So hopefully today I can show you a new technique on how to do that on curlier hair so that you're getting a nice smooth result. Thank you. Okay so this is my pre-done right here. Now I left in a couple of little rods so that way you can see what they look like when they're in the hair and dried and also how to separate it and fluff it out. Now this was done on a shorter mannequin so it's a nice tight little curl but as you can see we went from just basically like your 4A maybe 3C kind of curl to now just more of a 2C kind of curls because we've stretched it out, smoothed it, elongated it to make it more of a larger kind of curl. So I used the orange and the peach rods and a couple of the fuchsia colored ones just so that I can make more of a tapered shape. That way it's tighter in the nape, comes up a little bit bigger and fuller right on the top. So you can customize this with any rod size just know that that's going to affect your curl size itself. So to start off I always cleanse the hair making sure that I'm conditioning really well and for this one I chose to go with the tea tree moisture line. With that one you're getting the lavender mint benefits of it so it's conditioning the hair giving it a great slip right off the bat so that even without any product in there and I'm just going to show you with my little detangler you can really get right through. This one I guess you can say I cheated it's already detangled this one is not so you can see that in real time and that's even with it being a little bit dry. So as soon as we get a little bit of water on that and I love this mister makes it a lot easier for saturating the hair without having to kill my hands but like I said with this brush it's great that I can just get right through the hair no problem and that is why it's really important to set yourself up for success with a good shampoo and condition so that way it makes it a lot easier when you're working with your style during the whole process. I always like to work with my carbon comb or at least like some type of a tail comb. I always work in the back nape section first it's just a lot easier that way to work from the bottom up that way you don't have the hair falling down into your neck section. Now they don't have to be perfect because I'm actually going to be doing almost like a bricklay kind of pattern where I'm just taking little diagonal sections throughout the head. I'm just going to tilt that forward a little bit there missed it a little bit more. Now this mannequin is longer than the pre-done mannequin so I'm actually still going to be using the peach and the orange rods for this and I can actually show you a little bit better how to get the right rotation on this. What makes this perm rod set a little bit different from your usual one is that we're actually going to be twisting the section so instead of just wrapping that and having more of like your basic kind of ribbon we're going to do a flat wrap in the bottom of the hair but then we're going to twist the rod so that way it provides a good amount of tension on the hair and section itself because with this curlier hair it's going to want to wave up and it's also going to want to frizz a little bit more. So that's how we're going to get a little bit more control. So to start off I'm going to get a little bit of the plumage lavender mint curl refresh love this stuff. I usually start off with my lightest product as then that's easier to work through the hair get that slip going as you can see that starts to bind together into a wave rather than a curl so that's how you know that you've saturated your section properly. Then I just do a little bit of taming cream because I want a good amount of slip but I also want it to have a nice soft control to it so that as it dries the hair gets a nice shine to it but it also again has that control plus it also has a little bit of humidity resistance to it which you can start by doing the whole head with your product I just like to go section by section because that's just my preference but you can do whatever is comfortable for you. Now I don't really work with your typical like little perm tissues. Now at first you can just so that you can get those sections to lay down really well so you can use your tissue kind of bookend that where you just fold section inside and then do your usual perm rod. Now for me I don't really do that because as long as you get enough products on there and most of the time curly girls their hair comes down to a point so it's a lot easier to control and then wrap that section. Now normally we're taught to go from the open end but we're gonna go from the closed end where the cap is. Start that section off now as you can see because we have a good amount of product on there that's just adhering to the rod itself so with that you're gonna want to get that nice and flat you're gonna fold that over itself so that keeps it nice and strong and taut. Then you're just gonna grab your section and you're just gonna twist. So you can see where that makes kind of almost like a little twisted almost like a rope kind of section like what we would start off with a rope braid. So the reason that we do that closed end at the bottom is so that as we're twisting we're not gonna catch the hair and it's a lot easier to just bring that up and cap. Okay so on to our next section now I'm gonna alternate because for this one seeing as how this mannequin has a little bit more length as I mentioned than my first one I actually want to make this more like a larger kind of almost like an afro but by doing the orange and then the peach next to it I'm gonna create a little bit of like tighter curls larger curls so that way I can expand the shape and customize it a little bit so it's not gonna be like a perfect circumference or anything so again cap end is at the bottom that first one you're gonna wrap right over top of each other and you're gonna use your index finger and then just curve that and then when I'm taking these out later on that twisted section and that tension that it provides actually gives me a nice little stretched out midsection and then the flatter ribbon wrap that you have right at the ends itself that helps to give you like that that volume that you're looking for. You want enough product that you can see that kind of just like falling off of the rod a little bit so give it that one rotation just give a little brace with your index finger go under and around to make that little twist now yes the product is a little slippery so sometimes you might have that little slip but don't worry you're not gonna lose control over it so you want enough pressure that like I said you can still see some of that product kind of swelling out of the hair there that's how you know you've got a good amount of tension and you can take these sections a little bit bigger you can take them a little bit smaller depends on what you're starting out with I usually like to go a little bit smaller because the bigger your section is longer it's gonna take to dry there we go same little procedure going across the entire head another thing that I like to do at the very end is to just get a little bit of spray sheen so an aerosol of some sort or even like you know like a pump action one and then just like spritz that over the whole head especially when you're going under the dryer because then that's gonna help to add a little bit more shine and when you're taking it down a little bit more kind of like soft slip to the hair okay so in the front doing that diagonal back section now in the front it does matter a little bit more the direction that you're going with for this one I want this to be away from the face I don't want it to like fall towards the face and be really full and again smoothing that product all the way through the ends giving them a little pinch so I'm just gonna wrap that around smooth that over the rod give that one turn so that I'm locking that little bottom section giving that just a little push with my index finger and then capping that now by doing that a little bit of tension I'm over directing and pulling this section a little bit straighter so that's another thing to be aware of when you're doing your sections normally when we're doing a perm we never want to have that little dent that you know can cause that little mark when we're we're putting our waving lotion on but see is how this is a wet set and we're also trying to maintain a certain amount of tension that's okay not a big deal and especially when you know that you want to pull some of that hair back stay with like a headband or something like that now this section I actually do want that to go forward so even though I'm still working off of a diagonal it all depends on which way that you're wrapping the hair it's so for anybody that tuned in a little later I don't use the little perm wraps I just use enough product that I'm adhering that to the rod giving like one maybe two rotations over that section you don't want to wrap the whole thing that way because then it takes even longer to dry and then I just wrap this section so that way I'm getting the proper amount of tension on the natural hair to stretch that out and hey so I think you guys get the idea for that like yeah I could get that done in the next like 15 20 minutes okay so for anybody that wasn't here when I mentioned before you can actually put this under the dryer for like an hour or two hours whatever and then go to bed with the rods in yeah it's kind of a little uncomfortable but you can deal with it we all deal with some type of uncomfortable this but anyway so the way that I take these out is you untwirl the hair and this was with an actual little perm wrap so yeah that took a really long time that's why I'm saying don't bother doing it because I knew that some people would ask me about it so I did do that for this one plus it was a shorter cut styled band again so the other reason that I went with it but for this I almost forgot let me get my oil so I'm just gonna use a little bit of the nourishing oil for the end result get that right through my hands and you just want to untwirl that take a little section twirl in the direction that the hair was wrapped and now you can see that drops just a little bit more so that's why I'm saying that it stretches the curl it also changes the diameter of your curl because we started out with a mannequin that has more of like a zig zag kind of section and now we just changed it with the size of our rod and also with that wrap and as you can see because of that little twisted section it stays a little bit twisted even after separating it but then you get that actual like body I guess you could say from the ends where it was flat wraps and then you can see right here where yes you do get like a nice little neat section when you use the wraps but it is gonna take you longer to wrap that section I talk but I guess that's everybody a tiny bit of oil in my hands working that mainly through my fingertips stretching out my section seeing where it separates on its own twirling that around my finger and then just letting it drop and you can use as large or as small of a section as you like now I like to go through give that just a little bit of a comb and now that makes for not one but two things that I forgot for today's class okay so you can leave it like this if you want and you can let that just kind of relax on its own one of the other things that I like to do to play around with the hair and give it just a little bit more style is rather than just leaving it on its own that way you know you can actually like take the hair give it a little twist up just for a little bit of a different style clip that in you can do a lot of different things and yes it is kind of like Shirley Temple curls when you're not actually stretching that out so the other thing that you can do is you can take your blow dryer lift up the ends a little bit hit the roots so that way you're stretching it out that much more and again this is on a shorter mannequin so stretched out it looks a little longer but shrinkage is real and curly girls we all know that alright so let's see if you piggybacked would you use the same technique with the second rod yeah you can but usually when you're piggybacking that's when you're using like for really long hair so again yeah you can use a couple of different things because with that piggyback section you would actually get like a tighter curl right at the root and then you would stretch out a little bit more towards the end to so good call on that one oh well that works too alright so nice fine-tooth comb give the hair just a little pull because you don't want to actually disturb the curl at the end you just want to give just a little bit of stretch right at the root itself so that way it stands up a little bit more and it's not so Shirley Temple and then you're just gonna get right in there in the mid shafts and now you can see where you're starting to get that voluminous part that was promised right in that description is now we are stretching out even more of that mid section so now you're starting to get a little bit more fullness a little bit more length added to that personally I only ever fluffed out the top of my style when I would wear this myself because I wanted to make this last as long as possible hey also fluffing it out helps to just close up any gaps especially if somebody has finer hair but because this wrap technique helps to like basically keep a tiny bit of that curl pattern at the root that's where it does help to close it up even if you're not doing this fluffing okay so usually I like a comb that has a little bit longer teeth but again this still works you just got to make sure that when you're going in you're separating the hair from the top of this section so that way you're not combing out the curl in the ends because we do want this to last as long as possible okay so now that we have expanded that a little bit more now we can have a little bit more fun with a little bit of spray so I'm just gonna use a little bit of the Aokui Wild Ginger Shine Spray love this stuff and now just get in there you know decapitate somebody by really pulling out that curl and fluffing I don't know if you saw Smo's message but about the piggyback yeah okay yep so I answered that while you were you know helping me out there by getting that comb all right so you can pull some of this forward you can pull it back totally up to you and your guests and what you would like to do now I think for her that I would like to see a little bit of this and this is one of the reasons that I say this is great for like younger kids is like when you're a mom you're pretty much like not really you know got a lot of free time I guess you can say this is something that helps to just give you a little bit of free time in the morning to feed your kids get around and still have your kid look presentable and in the past I've also used this style to I think people are pretty familiar with the frohawk so I would use this in order to just kind of get that style but I would usually do that like maybe the third or fourth day in is where I would take these sections pin them up and make my frohawk and then just crisscrossing them so that way I know that they're nice and secure seeing is how this is a shorter style mannequin so it's not like I can actually put them together into a ponytail like what I would do with longer hair and doing the same thing on the other side and for that when I want to expand those curls and I do like a little bit of frizz that's my personal preference not everybody does so check in with your guests on how they feel about frizz before you start running your fingers through their curls and some people do not like that whatsoever so that's where you would just do that little individual little twist out or you would use your wide-tooth comb to fluff that a little bit more and that is our frohawk