 section 25 of the Journal of Lewis and Clark this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org recording by Charles Bice the Journal of Lewis and Clark by Maryweather Lewis and William Clark chapter 21 part 3 to the Fursh-O-Calfa Cawker's Creek where the voyage terminates they found level and good land on the right and high hills on the left hand after passing over a very precipitous rapid seemingly divided into four steps or falls one of which was at least 15 inches in perpendicular height and which together could not be less than five and a half feet they arrived at L's camp a small distance below the Fursh-O-Calfa where they stopped on the 6th of December as the pilot considered it the most convenient landing from whence to carry their necessary baggage to the hot springs the distance being about three leagues there is a creek about two leagues higher called Bayou des Sours-Cheaux hot spring creek upon the banks of which the hot springs are situated about two leagues from its mouth the banks of it are hilly and the road less eligible than from L's camp on ascending the hill to encamp they found the land very level and good some plants and flower and a great many evergreen vines the forest oak with an admixture of other woods the latitude of this place is 34 27 31 5 the ground on which they encamped was about 50 feet above the water in the river and supposed to be 30 feet higher than the inundations hills of considerable height and clothed with pine were in view but the land around and extending beyond their view lies handsomely for cultivation the superstratum is of blackish brown color upon a yellow basis the whole intermixed with gravel and blue schistis frequently so far decomposed as to have a strong alumina's taste from their camp on the wash tub to the hot springs a distance of about nine miles the first six miles of the road is in a westerly direction without many curiosities and the remainder northwardly which courses are necessary to avoid some very steep hills in this distance they found three principal salt licks and some inferior ones which are all frequented by buffalo deer etc the soil around them is a white tenacious clay probably fit for potters where hence the name gliss which the French hunters have bestowed upon most of the licks frequented by the beasts of the forest many of which exhibit no saline impregnation the first two miles from the river camp is overland of the second-rate quality the timber chiefly oak intermixed with other trees common to the climate and a few scattering pines further on the lands on either hand rise into gently swelling hills covered with handsome pine woods the road passes along a valley frequently wet by the numerous rills and springs of excellent water which issues from the foot of the hills near the hot springs the hills become more elevated steeper of ascent and rocky they are here called mountains although none of them in view exceed four or five hundred feet in altitude it is said that mountains of more than five times the elevation of these hills are to be seen in the northwest towards the source of the washtar one of them is called the glass crystal or shining mountain from the vast number of hexagonal prisms of very transparent and colorless crystal which are found on its surface they are generally surmounted by pyramids at one end rarely on both these crystals do not produce a double refraction of the rays of light many searches have been made over these mountains for the precious metals but it is believed without success at the hot springs they found an open log cabin and a few huts of split boards all calculated for summer encampment and which had been erected by persons resorting to the springs for the recovery of their health they slightly repaired these huts or cabins for their accommodation during the time of their detention at the springs for the purpose of examining them and the surrounding country and making such astronomical observations as were necessary for ascertaining their geographical position it is understood that the hot springs are included within a grant of some hundred acres granted by the late Spanish commandant of the washtar to some of his friends but it is not believed that a regular patent was ever issued for the place and it cannot be asserted that residents with improvement here form a plea to claim the land upon on their arrival they immediately tasted the waters of the hot springs that is after a few minutes cooling for it was impossible to approach it with the lips when first taken up without scalding the taste does not differ from that of good water rendered hot by culinary fire on the tenth day they visited all the hot springs they issue on the east side of the valley where the huts are except one spring which rises on the west bank of the creek from the sides and foot of a hill from the small quantity of calcareous matter get deposited the western spring does not appear to be of long-standing a natural conduit probably passes under the bed of the creek and supplies it there are four principle springs rising immediately on the east bank of the creek one of which may be rather said to spring out of the gravel bed of the run a fifth a smaller one than above mentioned as rising on the west side of the creek and a sixth of the same magnitude the most northerly and rising near the bank of the creek these are all the sources that merit the name of springs near the huts but there is a considerable one below and all along at intervals the warm water oozes out or drops from the bank into the creek as appears from the condensed vapor floating along the margin of the creek where the drippings occur the hill from which the hot springs issue is of a conical form terminating at the top with a few loose fragments of rock covering a flat space 25 feet in diameter although the figure of the hill is conical it is not entirely insulated but connected with the neighboring hills by a very narrow ridge the primitive rock of this hill above the base is principally salacious from part of it being the hardest flint others a free stone extremely compact and solid and of various colors the base of the hill and for a considerable extent is composed of a blackish blue schistis which divides into perpendicular laminae like blue slate the water of the hot springs is therefore delivered from the salacious rock generally invisible at the surface from the mass of calcareous matter with which it is encrusted or rather buried and which is perpetually precipitating from the water of the springs a small portion of iron in the form of red calcs is also deposited the color which is frequently distinguishable in the lime in ascending the hill several patches of rich black earth are found which appeared to be formed by the decomposition of the calcareous matter in other situations the superficial earth is penetrated or encrusted by limestone with fine laminae or minute fragments of iron ore the water of the hot springs must formally have issued at a great elevation in the hill and run over the surface having formed a mass of calcareous rock 100 feet perpendicular by its deposition in this high situation they form a spring whose temperature was 140 of Fahrenheit's thermometer after passing the calcareous region they found the primitive hill covered by a forest of not very large trees consisting chiefly of oak pine cedar holly hawthorne and others common to the climate with a great variety of vines some said to produce black and yellow grapes both excellent in their kinds the soil is rocky interspersed with gravel sand and fine vegetable mold on reaching the height of 200 feet perpendicular a considerable change in the soil was observable it was stony and gravelly with a superficial coat of black earth but immediately under it lies a stratum of fat tenacious soapy red clay inclining to the color of bright Spanish snuff homogeneous with scarcely any admixture of sand no saline but rather a soft agreeable taste the timber diminishes and the rocks increase in size to the summit the whole height is estimated at 300 feet above the level of the valley on examining the four principal springs or those which yield the greatest quantity of water or of the highest temperature number one was found to raise the mercury to 150 number two to 154 number three to 136 and number four to 132 degrees of Fahrenheit's thermometer the last is on the west side of the creek number three is a small basin in which there is a considerable quantity of green matter having much appearance of a vegetable body but detached from the bottom yet connected with it by something like a stem which rests in calcareous matter the body of one of these pseudo plants was from four to five inches in diameter the bottom a smooth film of some tenacity and the upper surface divided into ascending fibers of half or three-fourths of an inch long resembling the gills of a fish in transverse rose a little further on was another small muddy basin in which the water was warm to the finger in it was a vermus about half an inch long moving with a serpentine or vermicular motion it was invariably observed that the green matter forming on the stones and leaves covered a stratum of calcareous earth sometimes a little hard or brittle at others soft and imperfect from the bottom of one of the springs a frequent abolition of gas was observed which not having the means of collecting they could not ascertain its nature it was not inflammable and there is little doubt of its being carbonic acid from the quantity of lime and the iron held in solution by the water they made the following rough estimate of the quantity of water delivered by the springs there are four principle springs two of inferior note one rising out of the gravel and a number of drippings and drainings all issuing from the margin or from under the rocks which overhangs the creek of the four first mentioned three deliver nearly equal quantities but number one the most considerable delivers about five times as much as one of the other three the two of inferior note may together be equal to one and all the droppings and small springs are probably underrated at double the quantity of one of the three that is all together they will deliver a quantity equal to 11 times the water issuing from the one most commodiously situated for measurement this spring filled a vessel of 11 quarts in 11 seconds hence the whole quantity of hot water delivered from the springs at the base of the hill is 165 gallons in a minute or 3,771 hogs at in 24 hours which is equal to a handsome brook and might work an overshot mill in cool weather condensed vapor is seen rising out of the gravel bed of the creek from springs which cannot be taken into account during the summer and fall the creek receives little or no water but what is supplied by the hot springs at that season itself is a hot bath too hot indeed near the springs so that a person may choose the temperature most agreeable to himself by selecting a natural basin near to or farther from the principal springs at 3 or 4 miles below the springs the water is tepid and unpleasant to drink from the western mountain estimated to be of equal height with that from which the hot springs flow there are several fine prospects the valley of the washta comprehended between the hills on either side seemed a perfect flat and about 12 miles wide on all hands were seen the hills or mountains as they are here called rising behind each other in the direction of north the most distant were estimated to be 50 miles off and are supposed to be those of the Arkansas River or the rugged mountains which divide the waters of the Arkansas from those of the washta and prevent the Osage Indians from visiting the latter of whom they are supposed ignorant otherwise their excursions here would prevent this place from being visited by white persons or other Indians in a southwest direction at about 40 miles distant is seen a perfectly level ridge supposed to be the high prairies of the Red River not withstanding the severity of the weather a considerable number and some variety of plants were in flower and others retained their verdure indeed the ridge was more temperate than the valley below there it was cold damp and penetrating here dry and the atmosphere mild of the plants growing here was a species of cabbage the plants grow with expanded leaves spreading on the ground of a deep green with a shade of purple the taste of the cabbage was plainly predominant with an agreeable warmth inclining to that of the radish several tap roots penetrated into the soil of a white color having the taste of horse radish but much milder a quantity of them taken to the camp and dressed proved palatable and mild it is not probable that the cabbage has been scattered on this ridge the hunters ascending this river have always had different objects until further elucidation this cabbage must be considered as indigenous to this sequestered quarter and maybe denominated the cabbage radish of the washta they found a plant then green called by the French racine rouge red root which is said to be a specific in female obstructions it has also been used combined with the china root to dye red the last probably acting as a mordant the top of this ridge is covered with rocks of a flinty kind and so very hard as to be improper for gun flints for when applied to that use it soon digs cavities in the hammer of the lock this hard stone is generally white but frequently clouded with red brown black and other colors here and there fragments of iron stone were met with and where a tree had been overturned its roots brought to view fragments of schistis which were suffering decomposition from exposure to the atmosphere on digging where the slope of the hill was precipitous they found the second stratum to be a reddish clay resembling that found on the conical hill east side of the camp at two-thirds down the hill the rock was a hard freestone intermixed with fragments of flint which had probably rolled from above still lower was found a blue schistis in a state tending to decomposition were exposed to the atmosphere but hard and resembling coarse slate in the interior many stones had the appearance of turkey oil stones at the foot of the hill it expands into good farming lands doctor hunter upon examining the waters of the hot springs obtained the following results it differed nothing from the hot water in smell or taste but caused a slight irruption shortly after drinking it its specific gravity is equal to rain or distilled water it gave to litmus paper a slight degree of redness eventing the presence of the carbonic acid or fixed air sulfuric and threw down a few detached particles oxalate of ammonia caused a deposition and white cloud showing the presence of a small portion of lime appreciate of potash produced a slight and scarcely perceptible tinge of blue designating the presence of a small quantity of iron 16 pounds of water evaporated to dryness left 10 grains of gray powder which proved to be lime the Myrtle wax tree grows in the vicinity of the springs at the season in which the voyagers were there the wax was no longer green but had changed its color to a grayish white from its long exposure to the weather the berry when examined by a microscope is less than the smallest garden P approaching to an oval in form the nucleus or real seed is the size of a radish and is covered with a number of kidney- shaped glands of a brown color and sweet taste these glands secrete the wax which completely envelops them and at this season gives to the whole the appearance of an imperfectly white berry this is a valuable plant and merits attention its favorite portion is a dry soil rather poor and looking down upon the water it is well adapted to ornament the margins of canals lakes or rivulets the casino yeah punn is equally beautiful and proper for the same purpose it grows here along the banks of this stony creek intermingled with the Myrtle and bears a beautiful little red berry very much resembling the red current the rock through which the hot springs either pass or trickle over appears undermined by the waters of the creek the hot water is continually depositing calcareous and perhaps some salacious matter forming new rocks always augmenting and projecting their promontories over the running water of the creek which prevents its formation below the surface whenever this calcareous crust is seen spreading over the bank and margin of the creek there most certainly the hot water will be found either running over the surface or through some channel perhaps below the new rock or dripping from the edges of the overhanging precipice the progress of nature in the formation of this new rock is curious and worthy the attention of a mineralogist the hot water issues from the fountain it frequently spreads over the superficies of some extent so far as it reaches on either hand there is a deposition of or growth of green matter several laminae of this green matter will be found lying over each other and immediately under and in contact with the interior laminae which is not thicker than paper is found a whitish substance resembling a coagulum when viewed with a microscope this last is also found to consist of several sometimes a good number of laminae of which that next the green is the finest and thinnest being the last formed those below increasing in thickness and tenacity until the last terminates in a soft earthy matter which reposes on the more solid rock each laminae of the coagulum is penetrated in all its parts by calcareous grains extremely minute and divided in the more recent web but much larger and occupying the whole of the inferior laminae the under stratum is continually consolidating and adding bulk and height to the rock when this acquires such an elevation as to stop the passage of water it finds another course over the rock hill or margin of the creek forming in turn accumulations of matter over the whole of the adjacent space when the water has found itself a new channel the green matter which sometimes acquires a thickness of half an inch is speedily converted into a rich vegetable earth and becomes the food of plants the surface of the calcareous rock also decomposes and forms the richest black mold intimately mixed with a considerable portion of soil plants and trees vegetate luxuriously upon it on examining a piece of ground upon which the snow dissolved as it fell and which was covered with herbage they found in some places a calcareous crust on the surface but in general a depth of from five inches to a foot of the richest black mold the surface was sensibly warm to the touch in the air the mercury in the thermometer stood at forty four when placed four inches under the surface and covered with earth it rose rapidly to sixty eight and upon the calcareous rock eight inches beneath the surface it rose to eighty this result was uniform over the whole surface which was about a quarter of an acre on searching they found a spring about fifteen inches under the surface in the water of which the thermometer showed a temperature of one hundred thirty beneath the black mold was found a brown mixture of lime and silks very loose and visible apparently in a state of decomposition and progressing towards the formation of a black mold under this brownish mass it became gradually wider and harder to the depth of the water from six to twelve inches where it was calcareous sparkling stone it was evident that the water had passed over this place and formed a flat superfaces of salacious limestone and that its position nearly level had facilitated the accumulation of earth in proportion as the decomposition advanced similar spots of ground were found higher up the hill resembling little savannas near which were always discovered which had once flowed over them it appears probable that the hot water of the springs at an early period had all issued from its grand reservoir in the hill at a much greater elevation than at present the calcareous crust may be traced up in most situations on the west side of the hill looking down the creek and valley to a certain height and perhaps one hundred feet perpendicular in this region the hill rises precipitously and is studded with hard salacious stones below the descent is more gradual and the soil a calcareous black earth it is easy to discriminate the primitive hill from that which has accumulated by precipitation from the water of the springs this last is entirely confined to the west side of the hill and washed at its base by the waters of the creek no hot spring being visible in any other part of its circumference by actual measurement along the base of the hill the influence of these springs is found to extend 70 perches in a direction a little to the east of north along the whole of this space the springs have deposited stony matter calcareous with an addition of silks or crystallized lime the accumulation of calcareous matter is more considerable at the north end of the hill than the south the first may be above 100 feet perpendicular but sloping much more gradually than the primitive hill above until it approaches the creek where not unfrequently it terminates in a precipice of from six to 20 feet the difference between the primitive and secondary hill is so striking that a superficial observer must notice it the first is regularly very steep and studded with rock and stone of the hardest flint and other salacious compounds and a superphyseys of two or three inches of good mold covers a red clay below on the secondary hill which carries evident marks of recent formation no flint or salacious stone is found the calcareous rock conceals all from view and is itself frequently covered by much fine rich earth it would seem that this compound precipitated from the hot water yields easily to the influence of the atmosphere for where the water ceased to flow over any portion of the rock it speedily decomposes probably more rapidly from the heat communicated from the interior part of the hill as insulated masses of rock are observed to remain without change the cedar the wax myrtle and the casino yapan all evergreens attach themselves particularly to the calcareous region and seem to grow and thrive even in the clefts of the solid rock a spring enjoying a freedom of position proceeds with great regularity in depositing the matter it holds in solution the border or rim of its basin forms an elevated ridge from whence proceeds a glacis all around where the waters have flowed for some time over that part of the brim this becomes more elevated and the water has to seek a passage where there is less resistance thus forming in miniature a crater resembling in shape the conical summit of a volcano the hill being steep above the progress of petrification is stopped on that side and the waters continue to flow and spread abroad in crusting the whole face of the hill below the last formed calcareous border of this circular basin is soft and easily divided at a small depth it is more compact and at the depth of six inches it is generally hard white stone if the bottom of the basin is stirred up a quantity of red calcs of iron rises and escapes over the summit of the crater visitants to the hot springs having observed shrubs and trees with their roots in the hot water have been induced to try experiments by sticking branches of trees in the run of hot water some branches of the wax myrtle were found thrust into the bottom of a spring run the water of which was 130 by fahrenheit's thermometer the foliage and fruit of the branch were not only sound and healthy but at the surface of the water roots were actually sprouting from it on pulling it up the part which had penetrated the hot mud was found decayed the green substance discoverable at the bottom of the hot springs and which at first sight has the appearance of plush on examination by the microscope was found to be vegetable production a film of green matter spreads itself on the calcareous base from which rises fibers more than half an inch in length forming a beautiful vegetation before the microscope it sparkled with innumerable nodules of lime some part of which was beautifully crystallized the circumstance might cause a doubt of its being a true vegetable but its great resemblance to some of the mosses particularly the busy and the discovery which mr dunbar made of its being the residence of animal life confirmed his belief in its being a true moss after a diligent search he discovered a very minute shellfish of the bivalve kind inhabiting this moss its shape nearly that of the freshwater muscle the color of the shell a grayish brown with spots of a purplish color when the animal is undisturbed it opens the shell and thrusts out four legs very transparent and articulated like those of a quadrupede the extremities of the four legs are very slender and sharp but those of the hind legs somewhat broader apparently armed with minute toes from the extremity of each shell issues three or four forked hairs which the animal seems to possess the power of moving the four legs are probably formed for making incisions into the moss for the purpose of procuring access to the juices of the living plant upon which no doubt it feeds it may be provided with a proboscis although it did not appear while the animal was under examination the hind legs are well adapted for propelling it in its progress over the moss or through the water it would be desirable to ascertain the cause of that perpetual fire which keeps up the high temperature of so many springs as flow from this hill at a considerable distance from each other upon looking around however sufficient data for the solution of the difficulty are not discoverable nothing of a volcanic nature is to be seen in this country neither could they learn that any evidence in favor of such a supposition was to be found in the mountains connected with this river an immense bed of dark blue schistus appears to form the base of the hot spring hill and all of those in its neighborhood the bottom of the creek is formed of it and pieces are frequently met with rendered soft by decomposition and possessing a strong illuminous taste requiring nothing but lexiviation and crystallization to complete the manufacture of alum as bodies undergoing chemical changes generally produce an alteration of temperature the heat of these springs may be owing to the disengagement of caloric or the decomposition of the schistus another and perhaps a more satisfactory cause may be assigned it is well known that within the circle of the waters of this river vast beds of marshal pyrrhus exist they have not yet however been discovered in the vissenage of the hot springs but may nevertheless form immense beds under the bases of these hills and as in one place at least there is evidence of the presence of bitumen the union of these agents will in the progress of decomposition by the admission of air and moisture produce degrees of heat capable of supporting the phenomena of the hot springs no sulfuric acid is present in this water the springs may be supplied by the vapor of heated water ascending from caverns where the heat is generated or the heat may be immediately applied to the bottom of an immense natural cauldron or rock contained in the bowels of the hill from which as a reservoir the springs may be supplied a series of accurate observations determined the latitude of the hot springs to be 34 31 45 16 north and longitude 6 11 25 or 92 50 45 west from the meridian of Greenwich end of section 25 recording courtesy of we mobby press by charles bice www.charlesbice.com section 26 of the journal of lewis and clark this is a liberal vox recording all liberal vox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit liberal vox.org recording by bill mosley the journal of lewis and clark by mary wither lewis and william clark chapter 21 part 4 while mr dunbar was making arrangements for transporting the baggage back to the river camp dr hunter the small party went on excursion into the country he left the hot springs on the morning of the 27th and after traveling sometime over hills and steep craggy mountains with narrow valleys between then up the valleys and generally by the side of a branch emptying into the washtar they reached the main branch of the cow fat in the evening about 12 miles from the springs the stones they met with during the first part of the day were salacious of a whitish gray with flints white cream colored red etc the beds of the rivulets and often a considerable way up the hills showed immense bodies of schistis both blue and gray some of it efflorescing and tasting strongly of alum the latter part of the day they traveled over between hills of black hard and compact flint in shapeless masses with schist as before on ascending these high grounds you distinctly perceive the commencement of the piney region beginning at the height of 60 or 70 feet and extending to the top the soil in these narrow valleys is thin and full of stones the next day which was stormy they reached a branch of the bayou de saline which stretches toward the arkansas and empties into the washtar many leagues below having gone about 12 miles the mountains they had passed being of the primitive kind which seldom produced metals and having hitherto seen nothing of the mineral kind a little poor iron ore accepted and the face of the country as far as they could see presenting the same aspect they returned to the camp and the hot springs on the evening of the 13th by another route in which they met with nothing worthy of notice in consequence of the rains which had fallen mr dunbar and those who were transporting the baggage to the river camp found the road watery the soil on the flatlands under the stratum of vegetable mold is yellowish and consists of decomposed schistas of which there are immense beds in every stage of dissolution from the hard stone recently uncovered and partially decomposed to the yellow and apparently homogeneous earth the covering earth between the hills and the river is in most places sufficiently thick to constitute a good soil being from four to six inches and it is the opinion of the people upon the washtar that wheat will grow here to great perfection although the higher hills from 300 to 600 feet in height are very rocky yet the inferior hills and the sloping bases of the first are generally covered with a soil of a middling quality the natural productions are sufficiently luxuriant consisting chiefly of black and red oak intermixed with a variety of other woods and a considerable undergrowth even on these rocky hills are three or four species of vines said to produce annually in abundance of excellent grapes a great variety of plants which grow here some of which in their season are said to produce flowers highly ornamental would probably reward the researches of the botanists on the morning of the 8th of January 1805 the party left ellises on the river camp where they had been detained for several days waiting for such a rise in the waters of the river as would carry their boat in safety over the numerous rapids below a rise of about six feet which had taken place the evening before determined them to move this morning and they passed the cuttice about one o'clock they stopped to examine the rocky promontory below these falls and took some specimens of the stone which so much resembles the turkey oil stone it appears too hard the strata of this chain were observed to run perpendicularly nearly east and west crossed by the fissures at right angles from five to eight feet apart the lamina from one fourth of an inch to five inches in thickness about a league below they landed at wet stone hill and took several specimens this projecting hill is a mass of grayish blue schistis of considerable hardness and about 20 feet perpendicular not regularly so and from a quarter to two inches in thickness but does not split with an even surface they landed again on the morning of the 9th in sight of the bayou de la prairie de chompignol to examine and take specimens of some freestone and blue slate the slate is a blue schistis hard laminate and unfit for the covering of a house none proper for that purpose have been discovered except on the calfat which dr hunter met with in one of his excursions on the evening of the 10th they encamped near arclon's troughs having been only three days and descending the distance which took them 13 to ascend they stopped some time at the camp of a mister lefebvre he is an intelligent man a native of the illinois but now residing at the arkansas he came here with some delaware and other indians whom he had fitted out with goods and receives their peltry fur and etc and a stipulated price as it is brought in by the hunters mr lefebvre possesses considerable knowledge of the interior of the country he confirms the accounts before obtained at the hills or mountains which give rise to this little river or in a manner insulated that is they are entirely shut in and enclosed by the immense plains or prairies which extend beyond the red river to the south and beyond the missouri or at least some of its branches to the north and range along the eastern base of the great chain or dividing line commonly known by the name of the sandhills which separate the waters of the mississippi from those which fall into the pacific ocean the breadth of this great plain is not well ascertained it is said by some to be at certain parts or in certain directions not less than 200 leagues but it is agreed by all who have a knowledge of the western country that the main breadth is at least two-thirds of that distance a branch of the missouri called the river plate or shallow river is said to take its rise so far south as to derive its first waters from the neighborhood of the sources of the red and our kansas rivers by the expression plains or prairies in this place is not to be understood a dead flat resembling certain savannas the soil is stiff and impenetrable often under water and bearing only a coarse grass resembling reeds very different are the western prairies which expression signifies only a country without timber these prairies are neither flat nor hilly but undulating into gentle swelling lawns and expanding into spacious valleys in the center of which is always found a little timber growing on the banks of the brooks and rivulets of the finest waters the whole of these prairies are represented to be composed of the richest and most fertile soil the most luxuriant and succulent pervage covers the surface of the earth interspersed with millions of flowers and flowering shrubs of the most ornamental kinds those who have viewed only a skirt of these prairies speak of them with enthusiasm as if it was only their nature was to be found truly perfect they declare that the fertility and beauty of the rising grounds the extreme richness of the veils the coolness and excellent quality of the water found in every valley the solubility of the atmosphere and above all the grandeur of the enchanting landscapes which this country presents inspire the soul with sensations not to be felt in any other region of the globe this paradise is now very thinly inhabited by a few tribes of savages and by the immense herds of wild cattle bison which people these countries the cattle perform regular migrations according to the seasons from south to north and from the plains of the mountains and in due time taught by their instincts take a retrograde direction these tribes move in the rear of the herds and pick up stragglers and such as lag behind which they kill with the bow and arrow for their subsistence this country is not subjected to those very sudden deluges of rain which in most hot countries and even the mississippi territory tear up and sweep away with the irresistible fury the crop and soil together and on the contrary rain is said to become more rare in proportion as the great chain of mountains is approached and it would seem that within the sphere of the attraction of those elevated ridges little or no rain falls on the adjoining plains this relation is the more credible as in that respect our new country may resemble other flat or comparatively low countries similarly situated such as the country lying between the andes and the western pacific the plains are supplied nightly with dues so extremely abundant as to have the effect of refreshing showers of rain and the spacious valleys which are extremely level may with facility be watered by the rills and brooks which are never absent from these situations such as the description of the better known country lying to the south of red river from nakadoches towards st antonio in the province of texas the richest crops are said to be produced there without rain but agriculture in the quarter is at a low ebb the small quantities of maize furnished by the country is said to be raised without cultivation a root opening is made in the earth sufficient to deposit the grain at the distance of four or five feet in irregular squares and the rest is left to nature the soil is tender spongy and rich and seems always to retain humidity sufficient with the bowtiest dues of heaven to bring the crops to maturity the red and arkansas rivers whose courses are very long pass through portions of this fine country they are both navigable to an unknown distance by boats of proper construction the arkansas river is however understood to have greatly the advantage with respect to the facility of navigation some difficult places are met with in the red river below the nakatash after which it is good for 150 leagues probably computed leagues of the country about two miles each there the voyager meets with a very serious obstacle the commencement of the raft as it is called that is a natural covering which conceals the whole river for an extent of 17 leagues continually augmenting by the driftwood brought down by every considerable fresh this covering which for a considerable time was only driftwood now supports a vegetation of everything abounding in the neighboring forest not accepting trees of a considerable size and the river may be frequently passed without any knowledge of its existence it is said that the annual inundation is opening for itself a new passage through the low grounds near the hills but it must be long before nature unaided will excavate a passage sufficient for the waters of the red river about 50 leagues above this natural bridge is the residence of the kato or kato queez nation whose good qualities are already mentioned the inhabitants estimate the post of nakatash to be halfway between new orleans and the kato nation above this point the navigation of the red river is said to be embarrassed by many rapids falls and shallows the arkansas river is said to present a safe agreeable and uninterrupted navigation as high as it is known the lands on each side are the best quality and well watered with springs brooks and rivulets affording many situations for mill seats from description it would seem that along this river there is a regular gradation of hill and dale presenting their extremities to the river the hills are gently swelling eminences and the dales spacious valleys with living water meandering through them the forest consists of handsome trees chiefly what is called open woods the quality of the land is supposed superior to that on the red river until it ascends to the prairie country where the land on both sides is probably similar about 200 leagues up the arkansas is an interesting place called the salt prairie there is a considerable fork of the river there and a kind of savannah where the salt water is continually oozing out and spreading over the surface of a plain during the dry summer season the salt may be raked up in large heaps a natural crust of a hand breath in thickness is formed at this season this place is not often frequented on account of the danger from the osage indians much less dare the white hunters venture to ascend higher where it is generally believed that silver is to be found it is further said that high up in the arkansas river salt is found in a solid form and may be dug out with the crowbar the waters of the arkansas like those of the red river are not portable during the dry season being both charged highly with a reddish earth or mold and extremely brackish this inconvenience is not greatly felt upon the arkansas where springs and brooks of fresh water are frequent the red river is understood not to be so highly favored every account seems to prove that the immense natural magazines of salt must exist in the great chain of mountains to the westward as all the rivers in the summer season which flow from them are strongly impregnated with that mineral and are only rendered palatable after receiving the numerous streams of fresh water which join them in their course the great western prairies besides the herds of wild cattle bison commonly called buffalo are also stocked with vast numbers of wild goat not resembling the domestic goat extremely swift-footed as the description given of this goat is not perfect it may from its swiftness prove to be the antelope or it may possibly be a goat which has escaped from the spanish settlements of new mexico a canadian who had been much with the indians to the westward speaks of a wool-bearing animal larger than a sheep the wool much mixed with hair which he had seen in large flocks he pretends also to have seen a unicorn the single horn of which he says rises out of the forehead and curls back conveying the idea of the fossil cornu a manus this man says he has traveled beyond the great dividing ridge so far as to have seen a large river flowing to the westward the great dividing mountain is so lofty that it requires two days to ascend from the base to its top other ranges of inferior mountains lie before and behind it they're all rocky and sandy large lakes and valleys lie between the mountains some of the lakes are so large as to contain considerable islands the rivers flow from some of them great numbers of fossil bones of very large dimensions are seen among the mountains which the canadian supposes to be the elephants he does not pretend to have seen any of the precious metals but has seen a mineral which he supposes might yield copper from the top of the high mountain the view is bounded by a curve as upon the ocean and extends over the most beautiful prairies which seem to be unbounded particularly towards the east the finest of the lands he has seen are on the Missouri no other can compare in richness and fertility with them this canadian as well as lefevre speaks of the osages of the tribe of white hares as lawless and unprincipled and the other indian tribes hold them in abhorrence as a barbarous and uncivilized race and the different nations who hunt in their neighborhood have been conserting plans for their destruction on the morning of the 11th the party passed the peti acor afabri the osier which grows on the beaches above is not seen below upon the river and here they begin to meet with the small tree called charnier which grows only on the water side and is met with all the way down the washita the latitude of 33.40 seems the northern boundary of the one and the southern boundary of the other of these vegetables having noticed the limit set to the long moss telanzia on the ascent of the river in latitude 33 mr dunbar made inquiry of mr lefevre as to its existence on the arkansas settlement which is known to lie in about the same parallel he said that its growth is limited about 10 miles south of the settlement and that as remarkably as if a line had been drawn east and west for the purpose as it ceases all at once and not by degrees hence it appears that nature has marked with a distinguishing feature the line established by congress between the orleans and louisiana territories the cyprus is not found on the washita higher than 34 degrees of north latitude in ascending the river they found their rate of going to exceed that of the current about six miles and a half in 24 hours and that on the 12th they had passed the apex of the tide or wave occasioned by the fresh and were descending along an inclined plane as they encamped at night they found themselves in deeper water the next morning and on a more elevated part of the inclined plane then they had been in the preceding evening from the progress of the apex of the tide during their repose at noon on the 16th they reached the post of the washita mr dunbar being anxious to reach the natchez as early as possible and being unable to procure horses at the post took a canoe with one soldier and his own domestic to push down to the katahoula from wintz to concord there is a road of 30 miles across the low grounds he set off early on the morning of the 20th and at night reached the settlement of an old hunter with whom he had converged on his way up the river this man informed him that at the place called the mine on the little missouri there is a smoke which ascends perpetually from a particular place and that the vapor is sometimes insupportable the river or a branch of it passes over a bed of mineral which from the descriptions given is no doubt marshal pyrites in a creek or a branch of the foreshay a luke there is to be found on the beaches and in the cliffs a great number of globular bodies some as large or larger than a man's head which when broken exhibit the appearance of gold silver and precious stones most probably pyrites and crystallized spar and at the foreshay days glycese up haul higher up the river than foreshay a luke near the river there is a cliff full of hexagonal prisms terminated by pyramids which appear to grow out of the rock they are from six to eight inches in length and some of them are an inch in diameter there are beds of pyrites found in several small creeks communicating with the washota but it appears that the mineral indications are greatest on the little missouri because as before noted some of the hunters actually worked on them and sent a parcel of the ore to new orleans it is the belief here that the mineral contains precious metal but that the spanish government did not choose a mine should be open so near to the british settlements an express prohibition was issued against working these mines at this place mr. Dunbar obtained one or two slips of the boy dock bowwood or yellowwood from the missouri the fruit of which had fallen before maturity lay upon the ground some were the size of a small orange with a rind full of tubercles the color though it appeared faded still retained a resemblance to pale gold the tree in its native soil when laden with its golden fruit nearly as large as the egg of an ostrich presents the most splendid appearance its foliage is of a deep green resembling the varnished leaf of the orange tree upon the whole no forest tree can compare with it in ornamental grandeur the bark of the young trees resemble in texture the dogwood bark the appearance of the wood recommends it for a trial as an article which may yield a yellow dye it is deciduous the branches are numerous and full of short thorns or prickles which seem to point out as proper for hedges or live fences this tree is known to exist near the nakatosh perhaps in latitude 32 and upon the river arkansas high up perhaps in latitude 36 it is therefore probable that it may thrive from latitudes 38 to 40 and will be a great acquisition to the united states if it possesses no other merit than that of being ornamental in ascending the river both mr dunbar and dr hunter searched for the place said to yield gypsum or plaster of paris but failed the former gentleman states that he has no doubt of its existence having noted two places where it has been found one of which is the first hill or highland which touches the river on the west above the bayou calumet and the other is the second highland on the same side as these are two points of the same continual ridge it is probable that an immense body of gypsum will be found in the bowels of the hills where they meet and perhaps extending far beyond them on the evening of the 22nd mr dunbar arrived at the kata hula where a frenchman of the name of hebrard who keeps the ferry across the black river is settled here the road from the washtar forks one branch of it leading to the settlement on red river and the other up to the post on the washtar the proprietor of this place has been a hunter a great traveler up the washtar and into the western country he confirms generally the accounts received from others it appears from what they say that in the neighborhood of the hot springs but higher up among the mountains and upon the little missouri during the summer season explosions are very frequently heard proceeding from under the ground and not rarely a curious phenomena is seen which is termed the blowing of the mountains it is confined elastic gas forcing a passage through the side or top of a hill driving before it a great quantity of earth and mineral matter during the winter season the explosions and blowing of the mountains entirely cease from whence we may conclude that the cause is comparatively superficial brought into action by the increased heat of the rays of the summer sun the confluence of the washtar kata hula and tensa is an interesting place the last of these communicates with the mississippi lowlands by the intervention of other creeks and lakes and by one in particular called bayou de argent which empties into the mississippi about 14 miles above matches during high water there is a navigation for batos of any birthing along the bayou a large lake called st john's lake occupies a considerable part of the passage between the mississippi and the tensa it is in a horseshoe form and has at some former period been the bed of the mississippi the nearest part of it is about one mile removed from the river at the present time this lake possessing elevated banks similar to those of the river has been lately occupied and improved the kata hula bayou is the third navigable stream during the time of inundation there is an excellent communication by the lake of that name and from thence by large streaks to the red river the country around the point of union of these three rivers is altogether alluvial but the place of mr hebrard's residence is no longer subject to inundation there is no doubt that as the country augments in population and riches this place will become the site of a commercial inland town which will keep pace with the progress and prosperity of the country one of the indian mouths here is of a considerable elevation with a species of ramparts surrounding a large space which was no doubt the position of a fortified town while here mr dunbar met with an american who pretended to have been up the arkansas river 300 leagues the navigation of this river he says is good to that distance for boats drawing three or four feet water implicit faith perhaps ought not to be given to this relation respecting the quantity of silver he pretends to have collected there he says he has found silver on the washota 30 leagues above the hot springs so rich that three pounds of it yielded one pound of silver and this was found in a cave he asserts also that the ore of the mine upon the little missouri was carried to kentucky by a person of the name of bone where it was found to yield largely in silver this man says he has been up the red river likewise and that there is a great rapid just below the raft or natural bridge and several others above it that the kato nation is about 50 leagues above the raft and near to their village comments is the country of the great prairies which extend four or five hundred miles to the west of the sand mountains as their term these great plains reach far beyond the red river to the south and northward over the arkansas river and among the numerous branches of the missouri he confirms the account of the beauty and fertility of the western country on the morning of the 25th mr dumbar set out on horseback from the katahoula to natchez the rain which had fallen on the preceding days rendered the roads wet and muddy and it was two in the afternoon before he reached the bayou crocodile which is considered halfway between the black river and the mississippi it is one of the numerous creeks in the low grounds which assist in venting the waters of the inundation on the margins of the water courses the lands are highest and produce canes they fall off in the rear into cypress swamps and lakes the waters of the mississippi were rising and it was with some difficulty that they reached a house near concord that evening this settlement was begun since the session of louisiana to the united states by citizens of the mississippi territory who have established their residents altogether upon newly acquired lands taken up under the authority of the spanish commandment and have gone to the expense of improvement either in the names of themselves or others before the 20th of december 1803 hoping thereby to hold their new possession under the sanction of the law exclusive of the few actual residents on the banks of the mississippi there are two very handsome lakes in the interior on the banks of which similar settlements have been made he crossed at the ferry and at midday of the 26 reached his own house dr hunter and the remainder of the party followed mr dumbar down the washita with the boat in which they ascended the river ascended the mississippi and reached st catharine's landing on the morning of the 31st of january 1805 end of section 26 recording by bill nosley krillsburg texas usa section 27 of the journal of louis and clark this is a libervox recording all libervox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit libervox.org recording by the rat king the journal of louis and clark by mary weather louis and william clark dictionary of indian words and phrases good spirit key jai manitou evil spirit machi manitou man ethini woman squad male nafu female non-gents infant awashish head justikwan forehead eskiatik hair westiki eyes ikisak nose oskiwin nostrils utith igaoma mouth otune my teeth with pitta tongue otaithana beard michituni brain with the tip ears otauigyo neck okuyao throat o kutasuki arms o nisk fingers chechi nails waskosya side ospingi my back no piskwan my belly na te thighs opovam my knees no cekwanak legs nosk heart othea my father nutawi my mother nigawe my boy son negusis my girl daughter netanis my brother elder nistes my sister elder ni miss my grandfather ni moyoshum my grandmother nyokam my uncle nyokamis my nephew nitusim my niece nitusim eskwas my mother-in-law nisiguse my brother-in-law nista my companion newichiwagan my husband ninapem blood mithku old man shinap i am angry nekisi washen i fear ne gustou joy ne hyethaton hearing pethon track miskona chief great ruler hokima thief kismuthesk excrement meyi buffalo mustusche ferret sisus polkat shikak elk mustusche reindeer atik falodir atik beaver amisk wolverine quick wakach squirrel innikwakchas mink sakkwasu otter nekik wolf meyegen hare wa puse martin wa piston mousse mousewa bear masqua fisher we jask lynx pichu porcupine kokoa fox makisu muskrat wajask mouse abyushis cow buffalo noshi mustusche meat flesh weas dog atim eagle makusu duck sisip crow korbo kakaokan swan wapsiku turkey meseshu phezens okesku bird pethesu wutar niskeg white goose wewa gray goose pestasish partridge pethu water hen cheekwibish dove omimi eggs wewa pipe or jack kenongue carp namebin sturgeon name white fish atikaming pikro okkao fish in general kenongue spawn wakwon fins chichikan trout nagoose crawfish ashagi frog athik wasp amu turtle mikinak snake kinnibik owl oskajik needle sabonigan fire steel apet firewood michita credo tekinigan dagger takomago arrow agusk or atusche fish hook kwaskui pechikan axe shigeigan ear bob chikise bisune comb sikahun net athahe tree mystic wood mystic paddle abwa canoe chiman birch rind wasqua bark wasqua touchwood pusagam leaf napeisha grass masquosi raspberries miskwi minei strawberries otai minei ashes pecooch fire scute graves shomenak fog pakishihaw mud asuski current kisi jivan road meskana winter pepun island mystic lake sageyan sun pism moon tibiska pism the night sun day kigiga night tibiska snow kosna rain kimiwan drift peywan hail shishkagan ice misquamming frost akwatin mist pikasio water nepei mountain mesayaski all the earth world wachei si kichikichigaming morning kekwishipe midday abeta kwishiek portage unigam spring menuskaming river sipek rapid bawastik rivulet sepeisis sand foca earth eski star attack thunder tithuso wind futin calm athawostin heat kwishipe evening takashike north kiwitan south sewenawun east kosha kastak west pasquismom tomorrow wabank bone oscam broth michimwaboi feast makwasie grease or oil pymis marrow fat oscan pymis sinew astis large wigwam bed napawin within pendogke door squandam dish othagan fort wasgaigen sledge tabanasque sinkcher pokwatehun cat astotin stalks a chicken shirt papachewayam coat papisekowagan blanket wapewayang cloth manetowegwin thread asabab girders cheeky besun mitten astisak shoes meskisin smoking bag kuskwe petagan portage sling apesan straight on goiasque medicine meskikei red mesko blue caskuch same as black white wabiska yellow sasa green chibaticuare ugly machinaguso handsome katawasisiu beautiful kisi sawenogam deaf nimapetom good-natured mithi washin pregnant payawi fat uthino big musikitie small or little abisashu short chimasish skin wean long kinwain strong masukawa coward sagataha weak nithamisu lean matawa brave nimagusto young man oskwini gwish cold kisin hot kinkpatai spring minu skaming summer nibin fall tagawa gank one peyak two nishu three nishito four niwei five nianan six negutawaisik seven nishwisik eight jananu nine shak ten mitatat eleven peyak osap twelve nishu osap 13 nithu osap 14 niwei osap 15 niaman osap 16 negutawaisik osap 17 nishwaisik osap 18 janenu osap 19 shak osap 20 nishu mitatat 21 nishu mitatat peyak osap 22 and so on nishu mitatat nishu osap 30 nishitu mitatat 40 niwei mitatat 50 nianan mitatat 60 negutawaisik mitatat 70 nishwaisik mitatat 80 janenu mitatat 90 shak mitatat 100 mitowa mitena 200 nishu mitena amitenab 1000 mitena mitena mitena first ni kan last square yatch more minna better atiwak mitawashin best atiwak mitawashin i or me nitha you or thou kita they or them withawak we nithawak my or mine nithaian yours kitayan whom aweone his or hers otayan all kakitho some or some few pepeyak the same tabeskuchi all the world misayaki oneke all the men kakitho ethniak sometimes i askaopiko arrive to kuchin beat otameha to burn mistasukasu to sing nagamun to cut kiskushan to hide katan to cover akwa hun to believe taboitam to sleep napan to dispute kekomitawak to dance nemaito to give myth to do ogitan to eat with sinei to die ne pu to forget when ne kiskishu to speak ati metakuse to cry tears manto to laugh papu to sit down ne matape to walk pymuteis to fall takisin to works ati sku to kill nipahaw to sell atawam to live pymatise to see wabam to come astamoc enough egothigog it hails shisigam there is some ayawah there is ayawah it rains quimi when after tomorrow avis wahank today anuch there away ne toa much michet presently fishisqua make heart quithipe this morning shebaz this night tibiskak above espimming below tabasish truly taboyi already sachei yet more minna yesterday takushik far wafaw near kushiwak never nima wekach no nima yes ah buy and buy pa nima always kakike make haste quithipe it's long since me waisha end of section 27 appendix of the Journal of Lewis and Clark this is a LibriVox recording all LibriVox recordings are in the public domain for more information or to volunteer please visit LibriVox.org recording by E. Lee the Journal of Lewis and Clark by Meriwether Lewis and William Clark appendix appendix general Washington while president of the United States sent an agent to the Chippewaian tribe whose friendship it was requisite we should cultivate to preserve the lucrative fur trade that we held with them Washington by his agent offered that the United States would take two or three of the sons of their chiefs and educate them in our universities when the agent had executed the command the Indians who never gave an immediate answer on things that they think of importance told him that they would think of it and after a short time returned for answer that they had consulted on the subject and that they were of an opinion that it would render them too effeminate to be educated in our colleges as it would totally disqualify them to hunt or pursue the war but in return for the civility of their brother chief Washington that if he would send the sons of any of his chiefs among them they would educate them to pursue the chase for several days without eating and to go without clothes in extreme cold weather and in frosty nights to lie on the ground without covering and every other thing requisite to make them Indians and men about 60 years ago the French missionaries and traders having received many insults from the saw keys a party under the command of captain Morand marched to revenge their wrongs the captain and his party set out from Green Bay in the winter when they were unsuspicious of a visit of this kind and pursuing his route over the snow to their village which lay about 60 miles up Fox River came upon them by surprise unprepared as they were he found them an easy conquest and consequently killed or took prisoners the greatest part of them on the return of the French to Green Bay one of the Indian chiefs an alliance with them who had a considerable band of prisoners under his care stopped to drink at a brook in the meantime his companions went on which being observed by one of the women whom they had made captive she suddenly seized him with both her hands whilst he stooped to drink by an exquisitely susceptible part and held him fast till he expired on the spot as the chief from the extreme torture he suffered was unable to call out to his friends or to give any alarm they passed on without knowing what had happened and the woman having cut the bands of her fellow prisoners who were in the rear with them made her escape this heroine was ever after treated by her nation as their deliverer and made a chiefess in her own right with the liberty to entail the same honor on her descendants an unusual distinction and conferred only on extraordinary occasions reverend jay hubbard's compilation of indian history the sue indians and many other tribes train up their children with the greatest rigor to render them almost invulnerable to the inclemency of the winter and the misfortunes that unavoidably befall their mode of life the children of the sue tribe when taken from the breast of their mother are compelled to lie on the floor like welps unskins and with very little covering when grown older they bear incisions made on their bodies to try their fortitude and to make them bear extreme torture as though they were inaccessible to pain these scars are thought with them ornamental and those who bear the torture of them until their bodies are covered with a gore of blood and with apparent pleasure are much caressed by the spectators who assemble to witness their heroism and are considered as initiated into the list of warriors parties of these young warriors are after tried in feats of daring bravery and him who excels is considered as their chief warrior the extreme cold that they bear without a murmur is incredible to end european the indian nurse captain franklin rn in his narrative of his journey to the polar seas says the chippewan indians profess strong affection for their children in some regard for their relations who are often numerous as they trace very far the ties of consanguinity a curious instance of the former was mentioned to us so well authenticated that i shall venture to give it in the words of dr richardson's journal a young chippewan had separated from the rest of his band for the purpose of trenching beaver when his wife who was his sole companion and in her first pregnancy was seized with the pains of labor she died on the third day after having given birth to a fine boy the husband was inconsolable and vowed in his anguish never to take another woman to wife but his grief was in some degree absorbed in his anxiety for his infant son to preserve its life he descended to the office of nurse so degrading in the eyes of a chippewan as partaking of the duties of a woman he swallowed it in soft moss fed it with broth made from the flesh of the deer and distill its cries applied it to his breast praying most earnestly to the great maker of life to assist his endeavors the force of the powerful passion by which he was actuated produced the same effect in his case as it has done in some others which are recorded a flow of milk actually took place from his breast he succeeded in rearing his child taught him to be a hunter and when he attained the age of manhood chose him a wife from the tribe the old man kept his vow and never taking a second wife himself but he delighted intending his son's children and when his daughter-in-law used to interfere saying that it was not the occupation of a man he was want to reply that he had promised to the great master of life if his child was spared never to be proud like the other Indians he used to mention too as a certain proof of the approbation of providence that although he was always obliged to carry his child on his back while hunting yet that it never roused a mouse by its cries being always particularly still at those times our informant mr. wensel the guide to the expedition added that he had often seen this indian in his old age and that his left breast even then retained the unusual size it had acquired in his occupation of nurse great african serpent killed by regulus the roman general happy in the approbation of his country regulus continued his success and led his forces along the banks of the river bagrada there while he was waiting for the approach of the carthaginians a serpent of enormous size attacked his men as they went for water and took a position as if it intended to guard the banks of the river it was 120 feet long with scales impenetrable to any weapon some of the boldest troops at first went up to oppose its fury but they soon fell victim to their rashness being either killed by its devouring jaws or crushed to pieces by the volumes of its tail the poisonous vapor that issued from it is represented as still more formidable and the men were so much terrified at its appearance that they asserted they would much more joyfully have faced the whole carthaginian army for some time it seemed uncertain which should remain masters of the river at last regulus was obliged to make use of the machines employed in battering down the walls of cities and notwithstanding this the serpent for a long time withstood all his efforts and destroyed numbers of his men but at length a very large stone which was fung from a ninja happened to break its spine and weakened its motion when the soldiers surrounded and killed it regulus not less pleased with his victory than if he had gained a battle ordered its skin to be sent to rome and for this the senate decreed him an ovation incredible as the roman account of this monster may appear its skin was to be seen in the capital till the time of pliny and therefore the narration is not unworthy of a place in history end of the journal of louis and clark by mary weather louis and william clark