 Okay, so we're gonna start off this haircut by taking a right hand side parting Down to mid crown then across mid crown and down the parietal ridge What this is gonna do is give me a little bit of an offset kind of asymmetrical rectangle on the top of the head then I go straight down center back and separate the two sides clip it away and now I'm gonna work Diagonal forward partings and start my cutting so I want to work with the head shape here The the whole point of that is I'm collapsing the shape. So we're creating more of a layered bob This is from a previous haircut where we did a complete horizontal graduated bob now. We're switching it to a vertical diagonal forward Layered bob which is going to take out a lot of the weight in the haircut So depending on how your guests wants to wear their hair There's two different options for you. So just working bringing everything straight back To the previous section, so I'm working my way across the back just bringing it back Slightly about an inch back to the previous parting to make my cut now I work vertically so I shift from diagonal forward to vertical when I get to right behind the ear and I work that all the way back Bringing everything straight back to a stationary guide at this point What this is gonna do is push a ton of weight to the front So that's something that we're gonna address later in the haircut But just keep that in mind when you're over directing something all the way back to a stationary guide You're gonna have a lot of weight It as the end result when the hair falls forward So working diagonal forward still this the big switch here is that my fingers are now pointing down on the other side My fingers were pointing up the reason for that is it allows me to comb my new hair towards the middle of the head towards the guide You never we talked about this over and over again. You never want to comb the guide to the new hair because that shifts the guide from where it lives and if you do that you're Making the guide shorter, which is gonna make one side of your haircut shorter So to keep consistent you need to comb the hair the same exact way on both sides of the head So working vertically another key thing to look at is how the head shape curves up around the crown That's obviously gonna give us our graduated point So we we're layering the hair past the occipital bone to low crown And then when we get to the mid crown part you can see that the elevation of the hair is actually more at a zero degree angle So that's gonna give us our weight line there bringing everything straight back Pushing that weight forward Just keeping nice clean sections. I'm using the fine teeth of the comb That's helping keep more tension on the hair And that's pretty much it's a pretty simple Structured haircut and I think that this is a very common haircut that you'll see people doing in the salon The big thing that I want to go over in a little bit is how we can kind of make adjustments to that to make it have a More modern feel so we're gonna go through the back. We're gonna work diagonal back through the crown area What I want to do is take and just blend in the crown to the bottom more around the occipital high occipital bone area So I'll take my guide from top of the occipital bone and then just follow it straight up So keeping that weight line in there, but just blending it a bit Everything's being over directed back to that one point So you can see that there's a slight bit of over direction coming away from me Which is going to push that kind of weight around the corner and it's gonna be a little bit longer right behind the ear Which I like that feeling so everything's gonna come back to that guide It's gonna be stationary there so you can see in the bottom left diagram how I kind of angle the haircut So we're cutting short to long just keeping a little bit of extra length in there And you comb everything back until you run out of hair and then you're good to go All right guys, so we're gonna start off in our dry cutting portion of the haircut I'm going through with my vibrostrate iron just polishing out the ends of the haircut What this is doing is allowing me to see where the weight seems heavy And where we need to go in and just lighten it up a little bit So I'm gonna take a horizontal section throughout the side I already noticed that this side is heavy the sides are gonna be heavy because we over directed everything back to a stationary guide So now I want to go through and diffuse the weight So I go through horizontal Elevate the hair as high as I possibly can and just work Using a Mizutani puff-in dry cutting scissor. I love this scissor. It's a five and a half inch blade Goes in nice and deep into the section and just diffuses any Weight that's build up that I don't want so going through horizontally in the back as well doing the same thing Elevating it nice and high not trying to take or create a line at this point just Diffusing some of the weight. So what I'll do is I'll take that section I'll actually look in there and see where the density seems heaviest and then if I see a really dense spot That's where I'll do most of my point cutting. So I'm not going through there evenly and cutting I'm going through there and actually visually looking to see where it's really heavy. So right there You can see that part's heavy. So I'm gonna go through and diffuse that a little bit Same thing on the top work that line out a little bit go a little bit deeper just removing that weight creating that texture and a lot of movement and modernizing the haircut So same thing here going through you can see how the ends you can see light through there And then as it gets a little bit deeper, there's it's more dense So you're just going in there and polishing and removing that Now we're gonna do the same thing, but we're gonna actually cut a line But a nice broken line because I want to create a more side Angled fringe in the front nothing crazy I'm not trying to create a short bang in the haircut, but just something soft That lays across her cheekbone so working Diagonal forward section over directing it to myself to a stationary guide But the guide is is really diffused because we're doing some deep point cutting there now going through slide cutting using the same Scissor this is a good look at the Mizutani puffin Just going through gliding through the hair the reason a dry cutting scissor is so good is because the blade is so thick That it has a ton of power when you go in to cut hair So it can get through pretty much anything and that's what makes it a great dry cutting scissor So I'm just going through you can see how I push the top away And then I slide cut and then I pull the top back around That's because I wanted to almost disconnect the underneath You don't have to go through and slide cut the entire side of the head what you want to do is go in and just Diffuse the bottom then push the top over and it makes it look nice and soft Then I'll go through a little tease cutting connected all together same thing on the opposite side just going through slide cutting Just to break up and add that texture into the haircut I'm always going through and working with my hands when I move it with my hands It just allows me to see kind of how it's gonna fall and how that texture is gonna move within the haircut The last thing I'm gonna do I got my Mizutani type Z dual texture scissor So both sides have teeth and I just go through and glide into the back portion Just to add again more texture and movement and then I always blow out the hair to get all those loose hairs out of it And to kind of bring life back into the haircut. That's how that's how I see it So we're going through I've got the ergo paddle brush working through it and then I just finish it with a little bit of hairspray and She is good to go. So I hope you guys like this haircut if you do let me know in the comments Let me know what you want to see next. Thanks for watching