 Hi, Rob and his hands are back. So we're going to continue where we left off, which is to attempt to remove this keyboard section. We're going to remove this screw over here, which I will do right now. So this one was already loosened. And it's going to take a little work to get it out. So this screw is number 836. And some portion of it is threaded, and some is not. The total length here is 0.631. So that'll go in bag three. And let's remove this other screw over here. We'll probably want to use a bigger head. Let's try this one. This is a little better fit. The better the fit, the easier it is to remove the screw. There we go. That was pretty easy. So there does appear to be some oil on this machine. So I don't know where all the rest of it went. Like this, this is filled with oil. This is totally oily. OK, so this is probably another 836. Yes, it's an 836. Again, some of it is threaded and some of it is not. And the length on this one is 0.629. So I guess that would be 5 eighths of an inch. So that goes in the bag. Now we've got the other two on the other side, which kind of reminds me before I get any further. So this is kind of interesting. Over here is some sort of a wire that's kind of tied around this thing and this post. So that kind of looks like a repair to me. I don't actually know what it's doing there or why it is. I do know that in the automatic version of this, there's a bunch of levers over here. And you can see that there are holes here and there's a post here and clearly something's missing. Same thing over here. There is like a hole here, a hole here, some things here. And there is obviously something missing. And I think the missing parts are the automatic parts, which kind of means to me that this was actually the frame for the automatic and they just removed some parts or didn't install whatever parts for the manual version. Which says to me that maybe the manual and the automatic versions were sold at the same time and maybe the manual for a cheaper price. So that's always possible. So we're going to attempt to figure out what that wire is later on. The other thing that I want to show you, this is kind of neat. If you look up here, I don't know if I'm going to be able to rotate these things in here. Yeah. So if you look at them, I don't know if you can see this, but there are teeth of different sizes. And then there is five teeth of the same size. The idea behind this, if I rotate it fully again, it's rotated about there. So if I press, say, the one key down, you can see that this gear actually moves in a tiny bit. The two gear pushes it in a little more. The three key pushes it in some more, four key even more. Then the five key actually, well, here, let me turn this a bit, the five key, that's the four key. Yeah, so the five key actually moves this other gear in place. The six key moves the five gear and this other gear one, and so on, up to the nine key, which moves all of these. So basically what's happening is there's a varying number of teeth that are being pushed into line with this gear, depending on which key is pressed. So then as you turn the crank, whatever number is on the key, that number of teeth are turned on this gear, which in turn turns the gears on the carriage. So that's basically how that works. I think it's called a Leibniz mechanism because Leibniz back in the, I think, 1700s invented that sort of thing. So anyway, that's kind of interesting. So OK, so we were going to remove some screws for the keyboard assembly on this side. So there's one screw right over here and another screw in there, right over there. This lever, by the way, you can now see that its purpose is to just touch the bell. So if it's like this, I can ring the bell. But if it's off, the bell is disabled. And that was on here. There is a label here that says bell on and off, and that's what that did. So OK. And off of that, let's continue. So I will remove this screw over here. And as usual, it is a number 836. And as usual, its length is 0.625, or 5 eighths. And the final screw, which is in here, OK. That is 836 and length 5 eighths. Now, this screw has a flat head on it. All the screws have a flat head. And the reason for this, if I just pull out my notes, OK, the reason for this is that Phillips head screws were invented around 1934. This machine was built in the 1920s, and so Phillips head screws weren't around at that point. This is all you got. So we've removed all the screws. So let's go ahead and see if I can just lift up this assembly. I think there's something over here that's holding it. Let me tip this up to see if I can tell what is going on. I think this is just in the way. So I might be able to lift it and some out. There we go. Just have to slide it. And there we go. The keyboard assembly, OK. So see the profile of the bottoms of these keys is rounded. And what that would do is it would push down on these little rocker bars over here. And these rocker bars have these tabs that are bent out by varying amounts on the unit side. And on the five side, the tabs are just there. So basically, as each key pressed down, it would press the unit's rocker bar by a varying amount. And it would either press or not press the five bar over. And that's basically how the keyboard works. The machine that I took apart, this whole thing was slathered in grease, which was probably a good idea because you've got basically rubbing parts over here. So OK, so this is an entire assembly. And we are just going to set it aside. Is there any interesting thing? Somebody wrote A on here. I don't know why. A. So anyway, we're just going to set this assembly aside for later, for later disassembly and examination. And we are going to continue with this machine. So what do you think we should do next? Well, we could remove these rocker bars, I think. Sure, let's do that because it's kind of related to the keyboard as well. These rocker bars are held in place by this rail over here, which is held to the frame by these two screws. So let us go ahead and remove those screws. I'm going to change out my bit. I've been calling these heads for some reason. They're bits. Let me see which is the right one to use. Will this fit? This is too thick, so I'll use the thinner one. Now, of course, they're covered in oil, so they're hard to remove. Yeah, this is good. So I'll probably also put it in bag three, put the screws in. So one, two, so let's go ahead and remove the screw. I'm going to hold the rail down because it seems to be springing up. So here is it's got a round head also. So I wonder if it's the same as the other screws from the keyboard. So, well, it is 448, and it is a quarter of an inch. So it's the same screw as the keyboard, except, of course, they didn't paint it green. So remove the other screw, 448, quarter inch, bag three. OK, so now I can lift up this rail. You can see there's oil here, and its profile is actually slightly bent on this side. So that's important to note so that you don't put it upside down or upside down. It bends downwards on the inside, on the inner side. So I will put this, well, it can fit in the bag. It's always a good thing. OK, now we should be able to remove these, right? Yes, they actually just slide in. There are pins on this inner side, and there is a little U-shaped thing over here which can hook in. So basically, when you put it back, you just sort of slide it in, and somehow, I guess, put it in like that. Oh, OK. So there are actually pins on the other side as well. So you would have to put it in that pin first, which is proving to be inexplicably difficult. Maybe I should do another one just to see how this works. So I just lift this up and pull it out like that. So to put it back in, I just put it in there. So that's easy. They're all the same, except for fives and ones. So I'll just pull these out. This is easy. So this is a side view of one. This is the fives position. And you can see the discoloration where the keys have been rubbing against the metal. And this is the round cutout which pushes against the lead-knit gears. And this is a side view of the units thing, the units bar. So there are the various tabs. OK, so now these I will set aside. Sorry for showing you the top of my head again, but it's unavoidable. Sometimes you'll just have to deal with the top of my head. All right, so we are getting empty now. So this is looking pretty good. OK, well, if we look over here on this side, we can see the mechanism which deals with the crank. So the shaft on the crank has a little indentation on the shaft. So if I put the shaft into its hole over here and align it properly, so I can pull on this lever and then the shaft comes in. And then there's this sort of C-shaped indentation in the lever which goes into the indentation in the shaft, which holds it in place. So the only way to remove it is to release the lever. So let's see, pull the crank out. And it's spring loaded. There's a spring right over there. OK, so I'm going to close off bag three. And we're going to go with now bag four. So bag four, 7, 7, 3, 3, 9. One thing I did want to look at is are there any other interesting markings that I can see on the side? No, not on the bottom. That's kind of interesting. There is actually some lettering on the frame. This one says K678B. And the inside lettering actually says K679A. Well, aside from K, I don't know what the other ones mean. A and B are obviously one or the other side. Obviously, it would be important to know which side is which on the frames. So let's see. What is the next thing that we can take out? It kind of looks like maybe this axle with the Leibniz gears on it, I might be able to take off. It looks like I might be able to, because they appear to be held in place by this sort of bushing here. Two screws on the other side, two screws as well, although this screw may be a little difficult to get to. But I think I can do it. And then this appears to be attached to a lever over here, maybe. Well, let's see what we can do. All right. So, OK. Screw driver. Screws. Oops. They're magnetic, weakly. So it looks like an 8.36, I think, 8.36. Certainly not 10.32. Definitely not 6.40. So 8.36. And the length is 0.333, so a third of an inch. Yeah, they don't make screws in that size. And then I can unscrew this one over here. I'm beginning to think that maybe this assembly would come off first, because it was actually kind of hard to remove that screw, because this thing over here got in the way. So I think, yeah, OK. So I think what I'm going to do is I'm going to screw these back in. See, again, because there are no instructions, no assembly manuals on these, I'm just sort of guessing or reverse engineering how they put the thing together in the first place. So it seems to me that it was easier for them to screw that screw in if this were not in place. So I think instead I'm going to remove this first. Let's see if I can do that. So let's see what that's attached with. Well, it looks like there is a screw here, a screw here, and a screw here. Holding these down, there is a spring, which shouldn't be any big problem, I don't think. And on the other side, there is a screw and another screw, and another screw, and a fourth screw down in here. And that's going to be a bit of a problem, because there's this roller thing that's, so there's a screw here, a screw here, a screw here, and a screw here. And this screw is problematic, because there is a roller in the way. And I don't really see any way to remove it. So I'm wondering if that roller can be removed somehow. Let's see. OK, so that roller appears to be part of this kind of mechanism over here. And I'm wondering, I don't know, I really don't know. I'm not sure how that's supposed to be unscrewed. So see, this axle and this axle are connected to each other. So I can't take one without the other. So the question is, which one, how do we remove this thing? How do we remove this thing? Let's see. See, if I could just swing this roller this way, I could get at the screw. And the thing that's preventing me from doing that is this whole lever over here. So I'm wondering if I remove this lever, or if I at least loosen it with this screw, if this whole thing can move. Well, let's try it. Yeah, OK, my screwdriver doesn't reach. OK, it's moving. There's actually a nut on the other side. So I'm going to hold on to it with my pliers and then unscrew this. You know what? All right, I changed my mind. I am going to remove this axle over here. Because even though it's a little bit difficult, it's certainly not as difficult as this thing. So maybe the fact that I'm using a fat screwdriver is getting in the way. So let's go ahead and start removing this. I'm pretty sure this could be the right sequence. So let's go ahead and remove this screw, which I believe was an 8 36. Yes, and it was a third of an inch for whatever reason. So that's bag four. And then, yeah, I think this is just because this is a fat screwdriver. If I had a thinner screwdriver, this would definitely be easy. OK, OK, this is an 8 36 also. It seems to be. Yes, it is also 8 36. And 0.310, which is close to what? 0.3125, which would make it, what? 5 16ths of an inch, I guess. All right, so now we have on this side a screw, which I shall remove. 8 36, 0.335. It's not anywhere near 0.3125. It's 0.02 inches off, which doesn't sound like a lot, but it is. OK, and now there is this screw, which is slightly difficult, but not impossible. And again, if I had a thin screwdriver, this would be easy. And now we can take the needle nose pliers for what is technically the first time and remove that screw. OK, so, and this is again 8 36 and 0.314. So a lot more variation in that one. OK, needle nose pliers. This half bushing comes off. It's a half bushing. It just sits right on there. So I'm going to put it over here because I just want to compare it to the other one, which also comes off to see if they're the same. And indeed, they are the same, which means I can swap them. They will also go in bag four. It also doesn't seem to matter which direction I put them on. So let's take a look. How about this side? There really isn't anything holding this on. So I should be able to lever it out. So I'm going to lever it on this side maybe. There is nothing holding this in. I'm pretty sure there's nothing holding this in. So there we go. So this side is loose. The side is not. So the thing with this side is that I'm wondering if I can just take this out so that it's easier to see. Because this, yeah, let's take this out, which is the bell clapper. That'll also go in bag four. So this one has kind of a big screw. So I will use the big screwdriver. Yeah, this will make it easy to see. It looks like this has a complex series of parts. So it's important to note what part goes where. So there's this clappy part. So let's remove the entire mechanism. OK, it's connected by a bunch of screws, by a bunch of springs. So if I tilt this up, hopefully you can see the springs right over here that are holding this assembly together. So I am going to attempt to remove those springs with the dental pick. And so here's the first spring that I'm going to remove. All I need to do is hook it, OK? And then here's the other spring there. OK, so I've removed all of these pieces. Now we'll take it apart and see what piece is what. So we have a long screw. We have the clapper itself. We have some kind of a bushing. Then we have this thing. And that was my timer for 30 minutes. And then we have this thing. So there's the clapper mechanism with some additional thing on it. So we have a screw. Let's measure that. This is a number 836. And it's quite long. It is, from top to bottom, 1.35 inches. The threads themselves look like they're about 0.4 inches long. So bag that. And I'm going to keep the spring attached to its part. Normally what I would do with springs is I would caliper them in terms of their outer diameter, which in this case is 0.127, their wire diameter, which is 0.01, and then their length, which I can't really get in far away. So that way, if the spring actually comes off, I know what size spring it is. So but this spring seems pretty secure on its lever. So I'm just going to leave it there. Put it in the bag. Bushing this other lever. Spring doesn't seem like it's going to come off. And bushing, and that went in the hole there. OK, so let me close off bag 4. We'll stop there because we've exposed this end of the axle so we can sort of see what's going on. I'm wondering if at this point it would be best to kind of lower the camera so that we can see more this way. But in any case, that's all for this episode of disassembling and cleaning and putting together, aka restoring, Monro Calculator Model K. So see you next time. Bye.