 A lot of people say, you know, you want that thing to squat. You know, when you leave the line, you want to see the truck squat. Honestly, that is absolutely far from the truth as possible. That is dead wrong. We don't want our tire to go this way when we launch. And the acid sinks down in squats and it looks cool and everything, but it's not working in our favor. We want to take this tire and we want to crush it into the track. We want to smack the track when this thing launches. Everybody's having a fantastic day out there. Today's video is part two to the core four by four bars. And that's what we're going to be talking about today is these adjustable bars. What I plan to do when I install my bars and what my game plan is. A lot of people just buy these bars and they put them on. And it is a tremendous upgrade. Do not get me wrong. Getting rid of the factory bars with the rubber bushings in there and everything does a big upgrade going to these bars by themselves. Obviously, when you upgrade this joint and firm it up, you're going to get rid of a lot of the movement that causes things like wheel hop. Just putting the bars on does do a tremendous thing. Not only that, again with the adjustable bars, you can do things like set your pinion angle up or down. If you need to, you can also center the axle in the fender well backwards or forwards. If your truck is lifted or lowered and it has pushed the axle back and or forward, these bars will correct that as you can move the axle backwards and forward. So that is awesome that these bars can take care of that. So my game plan is I'm trying to go a little farther. I want to get the suspension set up on Frostbite to work on the trans brake very well. I want to be able to leave the line as hard as possible with as much RPM as possible and it hook up. I want to get Frostbite to just absolutely smack the track. And to do that, we're going to have to go a little farther. Down here on this table, I have a little setup basically simulating the rear end suspension setup on Frostbite or the Ram truck in general. And we're going to talk about things like suspension squat, anti-squat, the center of gravity, more or less. Very easily in a nutshell here, we're going to talk about how to make the suspension work better in your hand. A lot of people say you want that thing to squat. When you leave the line, you want to see the truck squat. Honestly, that is absolutely far from the truth as possible. That is dead wrong. You don't want your truck to squat. Granted, if it squats and hooks up and it's working, then hey, it's working. But in theory, that is really not what you want. The more your truck sinks, the more it squats, the longer it takes to get moving forward. So in general, it's slowing down. You have a lot of movement happening as your truck is sinking, but you're not going forward per se. So you really want your truck to just go forward. And we're going to talk about that. What we're really looking for, the word is anti-squat. And that's what I'm going to try to get working on Frostbite. And we're going to go down here to the table right here that I have set up to kind of talk about that. And my game plans of getting that to work. And it's going to take these core four by four arms, for sure, along with, I believe, some brackets. All right, so I'm going to shift the camera and get down here on this little suspension setup I got. All right guys, so as you can see, this is my little table set up, my little suspension dilly I got going on. So this oil pan right here, that I have the core four by four sticker on. And for those that don't know, these are the core four by four bars right here. This is simulating a rear tire. Okay, so this is your rear tire and your rear axle area. This is your rear axle setup and rear tire. This is going to be your upper control bar, upper control arm right here. This is going to be your lower control arm right here. All right, so again, this is the rear of the vehicle going this way would be the front of the vehicle. This string you see right here going from the rear tire coming up. This is what we would technically call your center of gravity. This is an imaginary line and every vehicle's different. There's proper ways to actually weigh your vehicle to determine exactly where this imaginary line would be. In most cases, it's usually about camshaft height. So if you imagine where your camshaft would be on your vehicle, the line would most of time run from the camshaft to this area. So if you was a draw line from the camshaft to the rear end back here, you would come up with this center of gravity line. And in a nutshell, typically speaking, this is laid out kind of how frostbite is right now with the factory control arms on the truck. My truck is lowered. It's got a bell tech two four drop and the rear coal springs has two coals cut off the rear. So we're running really about a two five drop. So the rear is dropped five inches and on frostbite, my lower control arm looks about like this. It's about this angle and the upper bar is pretty close to about what we got here. So, and most of the time, this is kind of about what a stock suspension looks like. Usually, and I have video actually showing my truck do this, this is what happens when you have a setup like this. You lower a vehicle, what happens is this bar actually starts to pick up. And the more you lower it, the more it raises up like this. If you had a factory truck or say a lifted truck, this bar actually will tend to get a little straighter. It would go the opposite direction. So say you had a factory truck, you're probably sitting somewhere around here. Maybe if you lifted the truck, you're probably going to be getting closer to level. But when you lower the truck, you're going to start looking like this. And that's really not good. And what happens when you get a setup like this, you get what they call rear end squat. All right. And that's, it's not a good thing. What's happening. And a lot of people think, oh man, that rear end squatting, that's what you want. You know, it's working good. Well, no, that's not good. And it only works out in your favor if per se the track is prepped really good and it's sticky. And there's actually enough glue or the tracks good enough to actually get your tire to hook up and push the car forward. So what's happening when you have a setup like this is if this is your tire, what's going down is you have the tire. I'm going to get a marker here. And let's say this top of the table is the body. Okay. Let's say this is the fender right here. This is the fender. Okay. This is our fender. Well, this is our tire. What's happening when you have a setup like this where your bar is kind of sitting at a steep angle like this, you're going to get a lot of squat and you're going to get a lot of pressure applied to the wrong areas. Okay. So your tire. All right. Here's the top of the tire. This is the track. All right. This little spot right here is the contact point of the tire. This is all you have to put the power to the ground and push the car forward. Okay. Is this contact patch? So when we shock the tires, we take off we do a hard launch. What happens when our bar looks like this is you're going to get this tire is actually going to push up. Okay. Into the fender well. You're going to get like a compression. All right. Your tire is going to move up. Your body is going to move down. And what happens when you get a situation like that is it pulls the tire off the track. Okay. So then you end up with a spin or you can't 60 foot or you get a bunch of tire hop like this. Long story short, if the track is not super prepped this situation isn't going to work for you. And this is currently how my situation is. Granted, most of the times when we race we have a pretty good track. And if I get a good burnout, I can make it work. Now you can throw expensive shocks on the back end and stiffen them up and try to take care of some of that when you launch the tire wants to push up and you can try to stiffen them shocks up to where it tries to fight that and keep it down. And that works to a certain point. Granted shocks are definitely a helpful thing to have and we are getting some double adjustable shocks but that's not the fix. All right. That's kind of a bandaid, honestly. The right way to fix this and honestly the only way to fix it. One, if the truck is super lowered, you could raise the truck back up. And what that would do is it's gonna level this bar down a little bit straighter. In theory, a good starting point is to have your lower control arm as straight as possible. And then work from there, work from that point. All right. The straighter you can get this bar the better it's gonna work. But I don't wanna lift my truck up. I don't wanna do that. If we have to lift it up a little bit, we might but I wanna leave it where it is. Easiest way to fix that and resolve it. And pretty much any four-link situation or four-link suspension would be getting this bar down. So I found a guy that actually makes some brackets to mount on the rear location for the lower bar back at the rear of the axle right here. So if he was a pitcher where this Johnny joint would mount on the rear axle, he makes some brackets that actually bolt in the factory location and then they have a hole, say right here, okay, to allow you to move this bar down. All right. And help straighten this up. Now I'm actually having them try to make me some with an extra hole or two. That way I can go down, say, a little bit more if I need to, okay? So that is my plan. We have some brackets coming that is going to help us lower this rear bar down and that's gonna help our situation a lot. That will help plant the tire to the track and it should take away a lot of the squat situation and it should give us some anti-squat, especially when we get some adjustable shocks in the rear end, but dropping this bar down should give us some anti-squat and what anti-squat is, is I'm gonna draw another arrow here so I'm gonna take this one away, the old one, that was bad. That's when we had the tire and the actual body, the truck, going towards each other, pulling the tire off the track. What we want is what they call anti-squat, all right? You have this right here. The tire is pushing into the track and the body is pushing up, so you are separating the two. You are forcing this tire into the track and you are lifting the actual vehicle. You're lifting the body up and a lot of people may not understand that or get that. It may not make sense to you, but that is what you want. That's what you see a lot of these race cars. That is the way they leave. That's the way they launch. If you look at them, there's not any squat, all right? These guys at the track that are fast, if you look at their truck or their car leave the line, you're gonna see this fender gap, all right? Here's a tire, here's a fender. You're gonna see this fender gap pretty much stay the same or the gap will get bigger because the tire is being driven into the track and the body's coming up. So the suspension is actually working towards your favor because it's forcing that tire into the track, which is gonna give you a better ability to 60 foot and even down the track at the 330 or whatever, you'll actually be able to stay out there and hopefully not spin or brake loose on the other end. But that is what we're looking for. And that's the quickest way to get there is we need to lower this bar down some. And then the other thing you can do, and I'm not sure if we're gonna have to do it yet, we'll see when I get there and we'll have, this is gonna take probably a half a dozen or more test hits at the track to figure out, get these all adjusted right and see which way we gotta go. But the other thing you can do is this front pickup point right here where this bar mounts in the front, all right? Now say this is our, this string right here, say this is our center of gravity, okay? Now typically if this pickup point on your lower bar is below that center of gravity, that will cause you to get a lot of squat and also will cause, say, a vehicle that makes a lot of power and does actually, you know, did hook up per se with a suspension, not perfect. Being under that line would actually cause a car wheelie and it would basically wheelie or lift the front of the suspension up a lot before it actually goes forward. Most of the time what you want is you want this pickup point on the front bar to be just above it or just on it, you know? Every car is different, just depends, but let's say we're just over that pickup point with a center of gravity. What you're gonna have is, again, you know, you change this angle so you have this rear end is working better. You're getting anti-squat, you're getting more anti-squat, so we're pushing the tire down in the track again. We're lifting the body up so everything's working for us. We're putting the tire where we want it. We're not taking the tire away from where we want it. And then now that we're on this side of the center of gravity line, what's gonna happen is, you know, this would make your car less likely to wheelie. You're gonna be pushing the tire in the track. You're gonna be pushing the car forward. You're gonna be pushing on the top of the car, which would basically, in theory, you're gonna keep the, it's not gonna wanna lift the front end as much. It's gonna keep the car going straighter, quicker. And again, that's kind of an easy way. I'm just trying to explain this as easy as possible. Again, I'm not a professional. I do understand suspension a little bit, and I'm trying to share some of that and just kind of give you a quick rundown of what these bars actually can do for you or not do for you if they're not right. But basically, where we're getting is in a nutshell, guys. You don't want your truck to squat. All right, if you're on the track here and you launch and you get a whole bunch of this, your ass in or your bed drops down, it sinks down, and then you take off. All right, that's a lot of wasted time for your truck to do this and then go forward, okay? That takes time, a lot of wasted time. You want anti-squat. When that tire, and that suspension goes to work, it's gonna push the tire down, push the body up, and it's gonna happen simultaneously, and what you're gonna get is you're gonna get a 60 foot, you're gonna get a better 60 foot. Instead of all this wasted energy of it squatting down before we start moving, that suspension's gonna be quick and it's actually going to move the car forward pretty much instantly. You're gonna get a better 60 foot. You're gonna get better traction. A lot of people try to keep the front end from rising sometimes, they'll put straps up front, try to keep the shocks from, if they're too soft or whatever, they'll try to put straps on them to keep them from traveling too much, all kinds of shit, but we're not gonna get into all that crap. Basically, I'm just trying to explain the rear end and what I plan on doing. Again, I think Frostbite's sitting somewhere around right here. From the factory, I got the factory bars on and my truck's lowered about five inches in the rear end with all factory suspension components still besides the drop springs. And this is kind of what our bar looks like right now. I do get a lot of squat on my truck. A lot of people has, they've actually given me a lot of comments on YouTube saying, oh man, your suspension works good. That thing's squatting. That's far from the truth. That's actually, that's not what we want. It looks cool, but that's not what we want and that's not what makes you fast. So what we need to do, we're to the PowerPoint now with this trans brake and the transmission and the power level we're at, we need to start concentrating on this. 99% of the time, if you can't 60 foot, you need to be looking right here in this center, right here in the rear end. You don't need to be looking at the front end. You don't need to be looking at anything else. You don't need to even be looking at tires or any of that shit. Right here, these bars right here is what matters. You need to figure this out. This is where you will fix 99% of your 60 foot problems right here. And we're gonna start by lowering this bar down with some brackets. All right, like I said, those brackets are going to mount in the factory location and then they're gonna hang down and they're gonna give us a couple of holes to lower this bar down. And we're gonna try to get it looking something like this. And that's going to give us a little bit of anti-squat that should push this tire into the track, keep the body relatively where it is, especially after we do a shock change and we should get some anti-squat, all right? Again, we don't want our tire to go this way when we launch and the asin sinks down in squats and it looks cool and everything but it's not working in our favor. We wanna take this tire and we wanna crush it into the track. We wanna smack the track when this thing launches. And that's where we're at, guys. So again, I think most of you guys will probably understand what I'm trying to say or what I'm trying to get at with this little setup right here. When it's all said and done, I firmly believe this will work for what I'm trying to get or do out of Frostbite. And I know I mentioned, I'm not gonna lie, I thought about ripping the whole back of Frostbite apart and I was gonna weld in my own four-link suspension setup, coilovers and everything, but after kind of re-looking at the truck and these bars from Core 4x4, again, these are the aluminum ones, the lightweight ones, double adjustable, I believe lowering this bar down is gonna help us tremendously and I feel like this will be the cheapest, easiest solution to get where I need to get or to get where I need to go. And I think, like I said, I think getting this bar down is gonna be a huge help. Outside of that, if this isn't quite enough to get it where we need to go to get us the anti-squat we're looking for, then we might have to start looking at relocating this pickup point. I don't think it needs to be any lower, honestly, than where it is factory. I think where the factory location is, I kind of feel like it's probably okay. If anything, it might need to come up a couple inch or two, maybe an inch or two up. That's kind of how I'm feeling about it. How we're gonna do that, if we have to do it, I don't know. Again, I'm not scared to cut shit off and weld stuff, so I'll figure out how I'm gonna do it, but we're gonna start here. On the easy side, we're gonna, again, we're gonna take our bar that looks like this, because my truck's lowered. We're gonna drop it down, and we're gonna get our bar straight. That way we can 60 foot better, and we can quit squatting so much and pulling this tire into the fender. We don't want that crap. It looks cool when it hooks up, and it actually goes, but it's slowing us down, and that's not what we want. So we're gonna try to fix that. And I have some time finally to try to get to that point, and that's what we're on work on, guys, so. So that is it, guys. That's, like I said, that's my plan. When I get this on and I get it figured out and I get everything working, as good as I'm planning for this to work out for me, if not, we'll go back to the drawing board. We'll figure something out. But I think this is gonna work. I think this will get us in a better situation, and we'll build it grow a little bit more by doing this and getting the truck to like this. As power goes up, you'll have to constantly keep changing things. That's part of racing and part of a race car. Anytime you start making more power, or you're trying to put more power down, you'll have to start changing things. That's just how it is. It's just, that's how it rolls. So again, guys, if I get this working, I get these brackets on and they work and everything, I will get you guys in contact with a guy that makes these brackets. They look pretty jam up. So there you go, that's it. Other thing I'm gonna finish out real quick with, again, these are the four, again, these are the core four by four bars. And these bars, as you can see, are no joke, guys. Double adjustable, greaseable Johnny joints on both ends. Aluminum. Lightweight. Very, very strong. Lifetime warranty. If they break, you'll get a new one. Great company. And again, a lot of people follow Joey, hot damn racing team, custom black motorsports. He's got a badass lifted Dodge Ram that he races, that he runs running Nitroson. Then he built them a DIY remote turbo kit that is absolutely badass. He runs these bars. He's had these bars on his truck, a Jeep, and these bars are great. He's got tons of videos of them as well. And also, if you wanna save some money, if you go straight to core four by four and type in promo code hot damn, that is Joey's promo code off of his YouTube channel to get you 5% off. Doesn't sound like much, but it adds up and every dollar counts, guys. So again, if you want some of these bars, promo code hot damn, Joey will get you hooked up. And that's gonna do it for the video today, guys. So that's part two. Part three obviously will be getting these things installed. So when we get them installed, there'll be another video on them and how everything lays out and works hopefully when I get these brackets put on. And obviously that video, I'll show my rear. Before I take them off, I'm gonna show you what it looks like, the bars, the rear bars, how my angle is on them. Again, right now, they're kind of sloping up because my truck's lowered and we wanna bring that lower bar down where it's a little more straight. Or if anything, we want it a little lower than the front area of the bar there. So those brackets are gonna help us out tremendously. So stay tuned for part three. And as always, guys, stay safe out there. Don't forget to hit that subscribe button. We'll see you on the next one.