 So now we're gonna cut some hair We're gonna focus on a long layered haircut So what I want to do is really talk about head shape Basically the breakdown of the head shape for me is that there's different corners in the head And those corners play a key role in how the weight shifts in the head shape When you look at this mannequin, I've kind of marked off where I believe kind of the important corners of the head are So you've got this temple area here You've got the parietal ridge that comes across Around mid crown here and then back around parietal ridge So that follows all the way around there creating kind of like a u-shape on the top of the head The other part that I look at is this back Center back here and then the occipital bone that comes across and then down so where I see this corner is the occipital Bone kind of curves in and because that curves in it's different than this part here on the head But a lot of times when we cut a graduation or things like that We don't look at the head shape so I pull this down here Which is basically coming out 90 degrees which you can see at that point And then as I work my section higher and higher it becomes more of a graduation because this is 90 degrees So it goes from this is 90 degrees here and then as I come up this is 90 degrees So now by the time I get to this part of the hair and I'm cutting it This is becoming very very heavy in the back The same thing is happening when you cut the front of the head people don't think about it And the fact is that the front of the head here is pretty much This is 90 degrees sticking straight out of the head and you're cutting it a lot of times all the way down here So you're cutting it at basically Zero or even less than zero degrees which is building up the most weight So where a lot of our customers have the biggest challenge is Right over on the edge in this corner where the hair gets super heavy So for instance if I take the hair and I'm pulling it over to the side here And I keep pulling it and I'm pulling it from further and further and now I'm pulling this hair All the way from this temple area around the face Over to me. What do you think's gonna happen when I let that go? It's going to not only be heavy just because it's coming from further away and dropping But it's even heavier because now it's going around this corner as well So you have multiple corners that you're following the hair is falling over and it just gets super heavy So that's what we're gonna take into consideration today when we cut when I do this kind of layered face frame for thick hair I'm gonna take into consideration this whole entire corner shift that happens in the head So we're gonna cut this based on a side parting I'm gonna comb the hair directly back and then I'm gonna go right to the middle of the eyebrow Here and we'll say that's where her parts up Now the next thing I'm gonna do is I'm gonna take my section For the face frame. I want to look at where this head starts to curve down and then where it bends up here And that's where I'm going to comb and rotate backwards So whenever I want to take a parting and I want it to be nice and clean I comb in that direction. I get the hair flowing that way and then I take from the point And draw a line around So that's a circular motion Following the head shape and what I'm gonna do is take this hair and I'm gonna clip it back So you can see nice round section back and then I'm gonna do the same thing on this side Comb in the hair back and then drawing that line round Into the back of the head. So there you go. So now we have our round section there going into the back Basically taking out the crown of the head in a way just like I talked about with the the bald mannequin We're working around this corner. So if I'm pulling all this hair over here and cutting it Then all of a sudden it's gonna get super heavy when I let it go and it falls flat there So what I want to do is work with elevation So this is going to be a Stationary guide here and I'm gonna elevate that up and cut it bringing everything until I get to this corner that Parietal Ridge area, then I'm gonna make my shift So I take my first section and now here is my goal. I'm gonna bring this straight up from the head Which is gonna become my guide now as I comb this I Don't want to go anywhere really above 90 degrees. I'm not trying to layer this too much Just flowing with the head shape is good enough. I'm gonna go slightly below. So this would be 90 here I'm gonna drop it just a little bit. So this would be the head shape. I'm gonna drop it down just a little bit And I'm going to cut my first line We're gonna be working. This is all stationary at this point. So bringing it up to that previous section And I'm gonna continue across Until I get to the parietal ridge Okay, so this will be the last Last one because now I'm starting to dip into that corner So now what I'll do is I'm gonna continue kind of a walk. So I'll take a little bit of this section Get this out of the way and that's gonna be my new guide. I'm gonna bring everything up to this What that's gonna do is it'll be a little bit of a diffused line But I'm just trying to add a nice kind of light feel to this and this I'll just work my way all the way down to the Temple or until you run out of hair really So I had a guide here brought everything to that stationary over top of the parting and then when I got to this edge I created a new guide which was straight up here. I brought everything to that that became stationary at that point Now we're working we're working with two different sides of the head You have a heavy side, which is this side has all the weight sitting on it So from the left-hand side parting, this is very skinny. This is very thick. It's got a ton of hair So why would we cut both sides the exact same for me? I don't think that you should I think that you should change it up Like they're two different haircuts. I still want to create a layered face frame on this side I just want it to be a little bit lighter. So what I do with this side Especially because it's almost from Pridell Ridge down So you're working almost on the same You know corner same edge of the haircut what I'll do with this is just take a piece from my previously cut section Clip the rest away and then I'm going to Take a diagonal back parting And I'm going to bring this all to me Now I can so I'll bring it to me across the face this way and my elevation you'll notice is nice and low On the other side it was high because we were removing weight Now I want to keep a little bit of extra weight and I'm going to continue. I'm going to connect Just like that shift my finger angle a little bit Work diagonal back Bring it over to me Shift that finger angle and cut so this is giving me those layers that I had in the first In that first section. I still I still get the layers I get the layered effect in the face frame But just get to keep that extra weight now you can see nice little face frame layers And now I'm going to go through I'm going to blow it dry real quick I'm going to use the palmachial invisible wear volume whip. We're trying to create some volume in this thing So I'll use a little bit of that just to give me some hold super lightweight This actually works really good on fine hair as well because it it doesn't weigh the hair down And once I put the product in the hair what I like to do is just brush it through So I think a lot of people just kind of smash it in and then Start blowing it dry I like to work that product in get it on every bit of the hair So it does its job then I can start to blow it dry Then I choose to start drying and giving it some lift with the regular brush Then I go in with a round brush because I feel that sometimes when you go in Just a round brush takes a little bit longer So I like to speed it up just by using the blow dryer and the brush Not letting it have a part so working it back and forth and then lifting and leafing it up Still getting volume in the hair. All right. And so like as I'm lifting this hair I'm going straight out from the head shape just really trying to create as much volume as possible And rolling everything back off the face Then I let the hair just kind of set on base just like that and then when I release the brush I kind of I let it twist out. I don't pull the hair out Because if you pull on it, you're going to stretch the hair Basically what happens is you stretch the hair while the hair is still warm So then you kind of pull that curl out you want the hair to let kind of like sit and rest And cool in that form and then you can brush it out later and it'll stay that way Sometimes when you pull all the time when you pull it or start running your hands through it as you're drying it You pull that curl out while it's warm So it reforms it's forming and setting From the hot state to the cold so as it cools off you need it to stay in that curl pattern So what you'll see is that there's a really nice consistency with how these layers are As opposed to it feeling like or looking very heavy right there That's the whole goal of this technique is to kind of walk your weight across instead of Just pulling everything here and dropping all of that weight into the the side part of the haircut You can see all these different layers how they flow nothing looks heavier than the other part And that was you know my goal with this cut and then over on the other side just a nice soft kind of um Layering pattern that goes with it, but it's not as heavily layered so it still has a nice full feel to it To keep the haircut nice and balanced now this end result isn't you know Exactly what we're Headed for here, but um, but this part is the whole point everything we cut