 We're going to roll right in new products. New, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, new, it's now it's time for a new. What's new? Coming soon, the AD 5693 we have requests for more bits on the DACs. People always email you, you know the email you get on the day. Where's my 60-bit DAC? Where's my bits on the DAC? Where's my bits on the day? More bits. We have a 12-bit DAC, now we have a 60-bit DAC coming soon, but we got some photos taken. And then we have some round displays are coming soon. These are going to go fast to sign up. They're in stock, but we don't have the driver board. But I did want to mention that if you want to pick these up, I will mention again that the connector used is not the standard 40-pin character for TFTs, but our upcoming QALIA S3 board is going to plug into them. Yeah, maybe buy it and then just hang on to it for a couple of weeks, then we'll have the boards. Maybe we'll go to overhead real fast and I can just show what this goes with. So you do need a special board to drive these with in this case. We're just coming soon. Hot off the press, so they're not in the store yet, but you'll be able to connect these. We're trying to make it easy because there's companies that sell interesting displays, but nothing works. Code you get doesn't work or it's just only that demo. We're trying to make sure that folks have some thing that they can build off of and have. So that's going to be the board. Yeah, it's going to be the board RGB666. I'm going to call these RGB666 because they're 18-bit color. So you've got both the capacitive and non-capacitive round touch. We'll have demos and videos for these soon, but just so you see the scale. We've been as fast as possible, so that's why you've seen these things go into the store as coming soon or in the store as we're getting the board to drive them. Yes. Okay, next up. Next up, there's a revision to the 3D hand sensor. So this is for gesture detection and motion. It's from UltraLeap, so it's a new 3D eye is the model number. The new thing is it comes with an amount now instead of a tripod. So on the back, look at the third photo. Yeah, this multi-mount comes with it. So it's easier to attach to like a monitor or to the wall or to a table before it came with a tripod. Probably was easier to accidentally have it fall off the table. Now it's like more mechanically secure. Next up. Next up, we've got some handy USB cables that have a display built into them. So if you stop here, you'll see this is a close-up. So this is an Android phone that's plugged into a wall adapter that is able to provide seven watts of power. For USB-A, this is a USB-A to USB-C. So you're not going to get a power delivery with a lot of wattage, although this cable can handle 66 watts. But if you might have quick charge, but for the most part, it's good for your 5V, 1, 2, maybe 3A output current capability. This is useful because a lot of times your phone or your device has maybe some special charging capability, but it has to match up with the charger that can provide that quick charge or USB power delivery. And you can't really tell how fast it's charging. Like you can see if it's charging or it's not, but you can't tell is it doing a better job with this adapter or the other. And so what's nice about this is that it just shows you a number. The higher the number, the faster it's charging. So if you have multiple chargers around the house, use this plug into all them and whichever one is giving you the highest number, that's the best match. There's nothing like a USB cable standard to come up with more standards that are all incompatible. So this is just another example. Plug me into a power brick that can provide 7 watts and then per laptop also. We'll also have a USB C to C version of this cable and that will, of course, be able to do much, much more power because USB C can easily go up to 100 watts. Okay. I started the show with so many data or team or customers and Tire community that makes things that you can go is? The H USB 238. Yay, I've been working on this for a couple of years. It suffered from a silicon shortage now it's back. This is a really cool chip. So we like USB power delivery here. It's a great alternative to infinite DC power jacks in a bin in your basement or under your bed or having USB A cables that can only provide you with five volts, maybe two amps max. So USB power delivery for USB type C and we have a guide all about it can give you up to 20 volts and up to three or five amps depending on the whether the cable can handle it. And that's really great because a lot of times you have say like a monitor you were showing me and it needed, you know, 18 volts, three amps and you're like, where am I going to find an 18 volt adapter? Well, if you have USB power delivery, it's easy. You have only one adapter and that adapter can provide any voltages you need. So let's go to overhead real fast and I'll show power delivery power supply. So this is a power delivery capable power supply and you'll see here, I mean, it has a couple outlets. That's why you're like, why is there so many numbers because it can do 100 to 120 and then this is an 18 watt adapter. So you see here on the USB C, it's like, I can do up to 100 watts, five volts, three amps, nine volts, three amps, 12 volts, three amps, 15 or 20 up to five amps. But you're like, how do I actually get that out? If you use a normal USB C cable to your device, unless you know how to request those higher voltages, you'll always just get the five volts. So you need a chip that talks to or firmware that talks to the PD source chip in here. You need the sync chip type to the source chip and say, hey, I want you to give me 20 volts. It's not going to give you 20 volts by default. It'll always give you five volts default and you have to request the higher voltages. And that's where the HUSB comes in. So if you look at the top of this board, by default, you'll see there's a jumper that says five volts. If you cut that jumper and solder closed the 9, 12, 15 or 18, or keep it open and it does 20, it'll automatically request from the power supply that voltage that you wanted. And on top of that, it also has a USB, sorry, I squared C interface that you can use. And we have a library written Arduino that you can tell it the chip, hey, what voltages are available? And then you can pick and choose dynamically changing the voltage. So your robot or your motor or whatever starts out and you're like, well, let's try nine volts. And then at some point they're like, wait, I need even more power. You can boost it up to 15 or 20. And you can adjust back and forth based on what's available. So let's look at this demo I've got. So I've got here, let me do this. No, let me, hold on. Live demo, it's live demo time. Rotate. I was going to have this be not upside down, but I think I can. So I'm just going to hold this and do this. Okay. Good enough. I want to focus. Science. Okay. So I've got here the HUSB and this is plugged into one of these wall adapters. I just showed off with the USB-C ports and can provide multiple voltages. And then I have here a, this is just an ESP feather. I just chose it because it has a nice display. It is communicating over I squared C. I've got it wired up to I squared C and it's requesting different voltages. And then if I plug into here, no, if I plug into, sorry, I'm going to delete this. Okay. This isn't to ground. And I have my multimeter and my multimeter is working. There you go. You can see that the voltage coming out is in fact going from 9, 12, 15, up to 20, and then it cycles back to 5. So you can dynamically change whatever voltage you want. You request what's available and then you can cycle through it. But if you don't want to use a microtroller, you don't have to. So try unplugging this. If you, hold on, I have to reset this because it was just programmed over I squared C. So by default, I have this jumper. You see, I try to re-jumper setting. I have the 12 volt jumper set. And so by default, it will now give me 12 volts output. So you don't need a microtroller. You do need to power cycle it if you just programmed it over I squared C. But by default, it will go with what the jumper says. And then over I squared C, you can set it to something else. So it's kind of the best of all worlds for USB PD. It's inexpensive. I've got this nice chunky pass transistor here and set it with jumpers if you like. And it's fixed. You can solder in a terminal block if you like. Or use I squared C and you have, you know, a more dynamic customizable USB PD experience. So either way. Also, you can use it with a microtroller and not use the I squared C. You can use it to get your voltage. And then this could do some other work with the over USB because I have the D minus and D plus lines brought out here. So this could be your main connection for USB C. And then this goes to your microtroller. Just one, I just got to warn people, this V plus pin, don't forget, it can go up to 20 volts. So if you're using this to power your project, you need a regulator that can take up to 20 volts if you request it and bring it down to 3.3 or 5 volts. Okay. And that's new for Alex.