 Hello everybody and welcome to another PMP end of month review. What is this? Well, this is when we go through all the end of month submissions in the painters motivating painters Facebook group the link for this group is down below if you're a Hobbyist of any skill level from just starting out to master. We'd love to have you along in our positive Constructive hobby focused community. That's all about helping you take your next step on your hobby journey This way in particular we host an event every month that event has a theme this month's theme was armor or vehicles and We invite members of our community to post there to share their work and Get some critique So I'm gonna spend The next however long it takes Going through everybody's submissions as always you can't post more than one thing for submission And review and I ask that you do include something you would specifically Like feedback on the more specific you can be the better Also, don't write me a novel Just little thing. All right, so without any other advice, let's get into it. We're getting into Armors, so we're gonna be talking a lot about weathering about panels and And how to sell the overall effects of these inorganic machines So this is Ian Stanley who's bringing us a sisters of battle Sisters of battle night So let's take a look Sisters of battle nights are something I certainly know a great deal about I've done many of these and It's my favorite one of my favorite things to do with with imperial nights is Make them into sisters of battle nights And you did a nice job connecting that giant piece of pewter I know you mentioned that the purity seals the roses the eagles things like this are nice touches. I You know, I like all the conversions things that work for me are I think the The heat effect on the gun is Is nice. It's a little too much blue You really want to minimize the blue Because it would be that that staining wouldn't go back very far. It should become purple fairly quick But it it's not bad overall. I like the marble effect the big like brass printouts and the various things you did are nice The metals themselves are really flat and this is actually gonna be sort of my main piece of advice for you When we look here at a picture like this, this is gonna where we really see it The the metals especially the gold because it's really the dominant metal here is quite flat It doesn't really have enough contrast and and even though this is a very Big machine that is to say this figure is seven eight inches tall nine inches probably ten and maybe with the little pipes on the back It's it's still a very small scale like you know in effect this thing should be huge, right? It's it's a very very big thing and So it should have the same level as contract of contrast we would expect from you know any 28 millimeter miniature, right? so We definitely want to to make sure that we're adding tonal variation that is to say Contrast of value into those golds. I've got lots of videos on that The other thing I would say is with something like this You want to make sure you vary the metals, but also it's a great chance if you're gonna do things like the The the heat metal on the on the weapons You also want to have some battle damage here and there big robots like all inorganic things don't heal And so, you know any amount of combat or fighting or even just normal use is gonna cause wear and tear Even if that's just little scratches scratches and basic grime It's a good part of any vehicle So those would be my main that would be kind of my main feedback for you there, but I hope that helps All right next up All right, William Thompson Says he focused on contrast and weathering using the weathering for contrast in some areas adding variety to some of the metals Like your thoughts on the pose and composition And then so let's take a look So he has reposed it to be in this very like down and sort of forward kind of position I think that's fine. It's still readable You didn't like move it out of there to the point where I can't tell what's going on anymore So I think the pose is overall fine The green parts of the armor as well as the black looks really nice. I actually quite like the way you've integrated the weathering I do think that sells for me. You've added brown and some really nice places here to create sort of Interesting really really interesting variation. So I actually quite like that Especially you're you're focusing both on interest in the shadows Which is a place you can hide weathering to make it more visually interesting other than just being black But in addition, you've also put it in where I would expect natural weathering and wear and tear to occur So around things like rivets and stuff like that panel lines where I would expect water to gather So yeah, now there's a couple odd angles here because of how far you've leaned him forward And you know it might be that in effect He's a little too far forward like he would be slightly off balance He might his like his front leg might need to be a little more out. He's he's in like he's his center of gravity is pretty Pretty out here, you know kind of over his legs. So it's hard to believe he's not falling over But it's you know, it's a minor thing. It's not the end of the world I like the the Images here on the arm plates. I think those really sell. I like you put some weathering over the top of them. That's good Opportunities for improvement. I think we could go a little be careful with your metal scratching I think we could go a little farther with the steel. Some of the steel is still a little flat So some of that could have a little bit heavier shading when we're gonna do little scratches and scratches like this on the steel We still we want them to be really really super thin So you need to get a very very very sharp brush very very very wet paint and you need to be you know, like really Getting those lines to be ultra sharp and thin, but overall it's a great looking piece. It sells for me. I like it way Okay, next up Joseph imperial guard armor ready to flatten the battlefield Does the camo work well in the models? What can I do to increase the weathering and where does the OSL work? Okay camel care sorry camo camel goodness sakes camo weathering OSL as our main pieces. Okay, so Let's take this individually. Does the camo work? Sure. It's fine You know camo is just an unusual pattern that's on a vehicle. There's nothing that you can kind of do anything Your heart can imagine it's good that you weathered over top of it, especially on this one. That looks really nice So that you know that sells for me the pattern is strange and unusual But camo patterns are meant to match to whatever environment they're in so if that's what the natural environment is sure it works for me The Weathering and wear on the models you need to think more about not just like you use a lot of sponge weathering clearly Or something akin to that you need to think more about Scritches and scratches like your bullet holes don't totally sell here. They're not dark enough They're not deep enough because of that shadow and they don't have enough and the light line is too big on the underside of it But they vehicles would also get scratched, you know vehicles that drive main light forward So tracked and wheeled vehicles right are gonna get scratches going like this like backwards along a side There's gonna be scratches going Directionally right because they will be driving and kicking things up and stuff will be hitting them There will be bullets that you know ricochet off the side and put a scrape line down there There will be things that grab the side of the vehicle and claw at it or you know, whatever you can you can pick your thing But stuff like that's what's gonna happen. It's gonna create those directional weathering points the other thing that I don't see a lot of here is Streaking and that's really I think where we had a lot of opportunity Especially on vehicles like this that have these really strong Angles right where you could be and rivets the combination of angular surfaces like this and rivets means that Water is gonna collect dirt builds up and then the drops down and it drips down and drips down and you get Streaks that build up over time. So something like oil streaking Or something like that would have been pretty great Does the OSL work? No, it does not because it's just too bright yellow and there's no darkness around it For lights to work like this like they need to be Weaker the light would not light up this whole thing right here Like why is the light shining on this thing that is not where the light would hit? Like your headlight Go outside and turn on your headlights. Does it make the top of the car right above it brightly lit? No, and as a point of fact, it doesn't actually do much of anything like turn on your headlights in the middle The day which is how you've painted the rest of this thing to be lit and it's not gonna do much at all So if you were gonna go for selling this lighting You need it like all OSL is a combination of a few factors You need a very bright spot that is the light it needs to fade slightly around it There needs to be a dark ring where the light isn't and then there needs to be a very soft glaze that trails off into the color of the Of the the main color that it is so it's almost like white bright intense color dark ring soft color, right? And this is just way too intense like way too yellow. This just looks like it's painted yellow It does it's not glowing like it's something that's glowing So you got to pull that way back Especially since these guys are painted basically like they're in a daylight scheme Like there's nothing that would tell me this is nighttime or make me believe that this is the only light around So because there's no shadows this light is way too bright and that's our general problem Yeah, so that's probably the area where I would focus on so there you go. Hope that helps Joseph All right next up Benedict Havens two years on my desk primed as part of the first 40k box. I bought him open to any suggestions paint it Paint on it as high high tabletop standard or above. Okay, and yes, and I know you know the barrels I Want to reread this and I know I know the barrels are not drilled out. There you go Yes, I will always watch to see if barrels aren't drilled out drill your barrels people. Come on It's not that hard. Just do it get the pin vice and do it So once again here the same thing with the lights I mean everything I just said is true again. These little bars aren't light So they should be dark like they should be creating shadow in the center point of line Because they would be blocking light We need more of a circle around this of not light And then this needs to be way weaker and these areas up here would be extremely soft if they had any light on them at all They're like if they're out in front of the box It's like they're barely out in front of the box like they're like this And that's this is not going to cast a huge amount of light up on on this area right here. Okay Now on the rest of the panel modulation, I don't have much of a problem with it You've generally caught the light in an interesting way. So as to your general tonal variation on the panels It's consistent. I can see the lighting scheme that's going on So I have no problem with any of that your sponge weathering you went for the metallic undercoat I generally am opposed to that because I you know like I don't know that these things would scrape away and show a Lot of metal like especially gray metal. You didn't doesn't seem like you made it super shiny So I'm okay. If you're gonna do sponge weathering and show scraped away metal Then it should be dark You want it to be like a dark steel or something like that because it wouldn't have been polished to shine It's enameled over. That's the whole point of it. It's sort of very industrial, right? You're not gonna polish something to chrome and then paint over it So Assuming that what chipped it away didn't also polish it that is to say something scrapes away the paint It's gonna create a sharp silver line where it puts its claws through or whatever, you know I think the real you've got a lot of that going on But most of it seems like it's in a pretty logical place like that is to say I'm seeing a lot more up front and in areas that are kind of you know facing the front of the tank So that's pretty logical to me. It looks like as we get toward the back I'm seeing less of it. So I appreciate the the the attention paid there I like the the symbols and everything you've scattered around here. Those all look nice. The the deco work is good the The metals and steels and stuff do look pretty flat a problem that I often see on vehicles You know, if you're gonna have your airbrush and you paint those metals on If you're because you clearly did some of this with an airbrush You know take that airbrush put in some Like a panes gray or some dark black ink or something like that thin it way down and just shoot your metals from beneath Right like get on the airbrush and just get underneath the thing and shoot the metals up from the underside It's fast and easy and it'll give you a sort of matter or shadowed finish. That would be kind of my main advice The other thing that catches me is these are a little too dark and it doesn't look like it's from soot So whatever the I don't I don't know what these things are on the side of rhinos I don't know if they're meant to be smokestacks or something. I'm not sure what they're meant to be but either way like they should have some kind of light on them and Then Assuming Lee if they if they are belching smoke if that's what's happening then there would be soot, but it wouldn't be this all Encompassing and it would be more of like a stibbled effect like because where like how soot would gather around the top of a chimney Or something like that. It's it's dust that settles, right? So it's gonna be a very sort of speckly type of thing. So you almost want to use stippling to get that on there Yeah, those are my main thoughts overall. It's a very cool tank I mean if your goal by the by was high tabletop you certainly achieve that don't no issues there You you're very much in that place All right next up Miguel Invictor tactical war suit aiming for a decent tabletop quality But would like to up my game to get to display Advice on volumetric highlights edge highlights quality of the metal parts and weathering okay, so the Metals start at the beginning metals need a lot lot lot more attention. They are flat. They are boring They are just silver. We need to go way way way farther So it like again, I'm gonna give you the the how do I go from tabletop to display? So the metals need to go a million miles farther integration of contrast of both value and hue There's not enough browns in here. There's not enough other colors. There's not enough shadow There's also not enough shine all of these feel pretty flat So we've got to just knock that contrast away way way up Same with the blue for that matter Um all of the blue is really lacking any depth like the weathering is over top But I'm not seeing it way enough Shadow especially on the hidden parts of the blue things that would be dark and in shadow the tops of these panels Where we're less light would be gathered but really especially here on the front under these things The edges aren't quite Clear enough on some of the pieces though what you do have like I can see here and here and these that looks really nice You've clearly got a very fine touch for edge highlighting, which is fantastic We're here is where we're gonna talk about a lesson Okay, when we're doing these kinds of scratches painted on scratches I Teach these a lot in a weathering class that I teach. I hope to get back to those Next year the very first thing I say is we're gonna do these scratches And I don't want and the thing that will make it look fake immediately as if you make them all the same size So don't make them the same size under all circumstances. Don't make them the same size vary the size I tell everybody that ten times and then they tell them to go ahead and do the exercise And I walk around and I would say nine out of ten students make them all the same size Because human brains like to make things symmetrical so This is the same size as this and this and this and this right and this All these scratches are the same size and there's no real logic to what's causing them. None of them have any variation They're not torn It's just as though like it's as though the same person went around and keyed this vehicle in a very symmetrical way If you're gonna do these types of scratches They have to vary in size and I mean really vary like some have to be like this and some have to be like this And they have to go at different angles and some have to crisscross and some have to be jagged and some have to be Ultra ultra thin so they have to vary on width on length on type on placement on angle If there anything else but that they will feel inorganic and fake Okay, so you have to turn your brain's desire for symmetry off and really like scatter them in a Random but logical way so that is to say there was no order no planning No person ever sat down and said let's put some scratches here here here in the universe of the model But they happened to where these things would naturally happen So around places where it would fight more where scratches would occur more right like what's grabbing the sky here What's causing these right scratches should be you know located up the same thing but with the contrast on the driver By the way, he's too flat The same things for the blue there Like this area would be highly damaged It's the front center of the thing right or this area of his arm which admittedly you do have it there But like some of these other pieces are there's no Logic sort of to how you've damaged it So watch when you have those scratches don't just make them lines They cannot be the same size and the white line needs to be a lot thinner by the way When you're going underneath and you want to tint it a little bit into the blue spectrum like those look a little too white You can start with white. That's fine, but then you've got a glaze Color over it to the color that's underneath it because it's meant to be a light line where it's capturing the tiny amount of light That's caught on the edge of the tear All right, so there you go Miguel. Hope that helps This is an amazing piece. Okay, so I'm not sure I'm gonna Alexander I'm not I looked over this and I'm not sure I'm gonna you much to tell you This is a 120 700th scale imperial to class stardust rare. It is 60 centimeters long Like these this is a very impressive project like I Go check this out this post out. It's incredible because it has led lighting and all this stuff he said it took him about half a year to finish and You know so this is like I Mean we can take a look here and and he's absolutely right that like keep mine This is all led lighting and stuff like that. It's just incredible like we'll flip around. We'll see all the different things He's done, you know, it's really challenging to add value to this stuff when it's at this scale because You have this problem that any amount of placed contrast will feel Way too big on something of this size so the thing that occurs to me about this and What I'll say is it does still feel a little flat like weathering is hard to do in this scale because you can't paint Things small enough and that kind of stuff and what would they weather anyways? They're in space, you know I think this looks really great, and I think it's really impressive. I Have to wonder if what we could have done to spice this up a little was to increase some of the Aztec in some Because I feel like almost what's missing like when you look at Let's see if we can find something. Let's do this Star Wars movie prop Star Destroyer Let's just do that There we go, cool. I'm trying to find one that was actually there we go Just went in the original movie Yeah, like when we look at these Models in the Star Wars exhibition you're honestly pretty close to where they were Like it feels pretty dead on To to the original things if you look at like some of the shots of some of the ships It feels like they've they've got here we go. This will be a nice one Right like you can see how they're using the extreme light in the studio to cause to create visual interest Which I saw you did in your picture as well and You know, I think that there's a little bit more Aztec in you can see here where it's just like those little variations of Light and shadow like I'm just changing the value a tiny bit through the Aztec in I think could be what helps Because these are also really big models and I mean if you look there's not like this is one of the original Or You know, like this it's not a huge amount of variation here, right as far as like what we would think of as traditional Tonal variation. So I think you're pretty I think you're pretty dead on You know, you could always do a little bit of very slight coloration on Some areas like just the lightest lightest lightest touch under some things that are really really hidden in shadow But I but I'm not sure I would I think this is a freaking masterpiece, man It's incredible like this could be a Star Wars movie prop. I think you nailed it It's it's a very impressive piece of work for scale modeling So I'm not sure I have any real critical feedback for you other than to say well done sir Well done time well spent you made yourself a truly amazing model Okay, Nick curtain Hey there Vince made this walking steam tank out of the parts from a guitar toy That I stole from my son and some beads would love to hear your thoughts on the weathering and how I could push the paint job further Overall going for a whimsical grim dark look. Sure. So fun little piece Yeah, so I mean it's definitely very weathered and rusted. I do appreciate your rusting technique It's really nice. You've got a great Separation there between like the paint and the rust good colors of yellow and orange rust and stuff like that So I think that looks Really nice now as to the the paint You know, I think some of the things you could use a little bit of What I would what I would think of is just like clean edges Stuff like that. So like everything is old and weathered and that's cool But we should see like some scrapes or scratches of cleaner metal here and there around the edges of things or on guns Or on just you know pieces where the metal has been scraped shiny almost like I was talking about earlier If something with force hits the thing and it's scraped shiny I think that can be a good way to add something that's got a little bit of brightness to it I Mean that is a heck of a crazy thing to turn this Into this well done my friend. That is a that is a Friend those people and people say wargaming is too expensive. Just is that true or you're just not creative enough? No, it's I mean, this is a really really cool project The only other thing that jumps out at me is stuff like this this extra little thing here We're like this little cloth piece hanging off like that doesn't feel naturally weathered Like that's not how dirt would gather on a piece of cloth So that part jumps out to me is a little problematic But as far as the all the rest of these inorganic parts go I like it I like the dirt collecting between the little rubber walkery legs Yeah, that's all fun. So very cool piece man All right, this bad boy Emil constructive criticism on this guy largest project to date with over 300 hours of work put into it Sure Okay, so a lot of stuff. I read through all this earlier. It's it's pretty incredible All right, so I'll give you some feedback on some pieces the Freehand of the emperor up here on the banner I'm not sure what's going on there. I don't the yellow doesn't sell for me I like the base image, but I'm not sure what's going on with the the yellow or it's hard for me to tell I love the the emperor image down here That looks great as does this piece and this piece like these are you've got some really solid freehand components on here, man The oh that was my picture, okay, the So I like all of those I think those all sell it's really only the banner that gets me The by the way, I know you said you made the banner and the smoke out of I don't love the smoke being a big t-shape I'm not sure what's happening there. That's a little weird to me Like I understand maybe you're trying to represent it like kind of being at the edge of the frame But I would have rather like if you if those little wings weren't on it, and it was just a little puff ball coming up I would honestly like it a lot better The The when you banners I wouldn't make them out of green stuff They always end up looking too thick and not sort of like cloth It's just it's very hard to make to get cloth thin and shaped right out of green stuff If you need to make a banner like that I would highly recommend you take a thin piece of plastic card and you get yourself a heat gun and you just You cut it to a rough banner shape And then you just apply a heat gun and let gravity kind of do its work and you have a create natural bends It's a really easy way to make fast really good-looking banners Now as to the heat effect itself it mostly sells I could use a little bit of hot hotter parts on some of the bigger areas So like the chainsaw is it like that you got a lot of area where we just kind of go into yellow orange here And nothing gets hyper hyper hot it'd be neat if in some of the deepest areas here We had some hot hot hot like we do down here I really like it around the feet and in the base of it So it'd be cool if some of a few of those elements were really super heated as well The blue gun is very eye-catching But and then normally I would bust people's chops for for having such a super bright intense color just in one place But in this case I understand why and also I don't think it Actually distracts that much because so much of the rest of the piece is like bright orange It would be cool if you could get a second blue even if it was small like it'd be neat if this gun was glowing the same blue You know that would have been a cool way to balance it out Which is another minor thing to keep us moving across this direction But there's a lot of visual interest going on on here. So I you know, it's not that not the end of the world at all Overall this thing is rad as man Incredible piece of work something you should be very very proud of from the base to the the pilot to the all the green stuff Worked everything. This is a an absolute masterpiece. I really love how this came out and I think you should be very very very proud Well, well done at this This is what I'm here for this kind of stuff. If you know me, you know, I love Imperial Knights I love it when they get crazy. They are just a big giant palette You can do whatever you want with and here we see an artist doing something awesome. So well done All right, next up Thomas Started this is a quick project or this much entry we did more fun with this and I've had on any other models I just kept pushing it farther. Do you have any suggestions for me on the treatment of shadows? I found it hard to differentiate a warm shadow from a brown black grime, especially on the back left quarter and photo for Okay Sure, so this guy's real nice. I like this a lot I mean these nergal vehicles are really fun to paint because you get to go wild with Texture and weathering and stuff like that like a nergal feels our vehicles are admittedly a special kind of fun Now just you know swapping around this guy. Let's start here all this looks good This all sells to me the eye needs more variation in it So an eyeball an iris is not a uniform color all the way around It has shadow at the top light at the bottom because it's effectively like a gem in how it gathers light together So you need to you need to vary that look at Richard Gray's eyeballs in his freehand That's the best thing I can tell you like just go look at the master and and really really see what he has done Now on to your question. Here we go picture four So the the talking about the difference between you know sort of shadows and grime and the answer is Who cares what the difference is like that is to say grime placed in areas where it is lighter Will be grime grime placed in areas of shadow will be shadows and grime and that's fine You can kind of as I mentioned earlier, you know, it can be a little two birds one stone situation. I Quite like the flesh here. I think this thing is good. It's hard for me to get a read on Nurgle and competitions. It's gonna sort of be highly based on You know your area and the competition in general and kind of what they value in that sort of Thing like if they if there some competitions don't love really like love super rusty crusty type of models Some competitions absolutely do so it's you know, that's it's tough to predict with stuff like that All competitions have bias Just a couple things that stand out to me on the weathering is we're missing some orange in this and it'd be a great compliment to add Some more real color in here There's a little bit up on these spikes that I see but then like I see these heavily pitted and rusted areas here on these Kinds of metals and I don't really get the yellow Orange maroon rust that I would expect to find in there. So a little more variation. Maybe it's pigments. Maybe it's a dry Application maybe it's a bit of stippling. Whatever just a pushing that a little bit more is gonna add more pop and visual interest to the piece but overall very cool thing my man All right next up Looking for feedback on the gladiator I put a lot of time into the customization like to hear thoughts also curious thoughts the paint job first time doing it Have you what heavily weathered vehicle? Sure So here's the basic vehicle. Let's take a look here. Nice. Nice. The additions good good This is a great reference for people who want to look at stuff like how do I add traps and things like this? You know a lot of things are not actually super hard to to add on it's just cutting little little Thin bands and smooth them out and then applying them and now let's take a look at the The final so yeah, man. This looks good. I like the sort of I don't know Tallerin desert scheme or whatever it's meant to be but you know this sort of Color pattern I like I Think the it is extremely heavily weathered, but I think that the weathering feels Apropos that is to say you have focused it in the right areas. I do like the OSL glow here This is what I'm talking about. See how there's almost no green up here. It's mostly down here. It's very soft Right and so yes, this this is good OSL. I like this It's just a nice gentle light. It's not, you know This is brighter than this writer softer. Yeah, and there's a nice dark ring around the thing where it's not casting light The regular metals here feel pretty boring pretty flat not a lot going on with them That's probably the biggest thing I see as As an opportunity I feel like some of those should have been brought up even if it was through maybe more stippling and rough application and hatchy scratchy lines because of the nature of the weathering and then you know have some application of You know browns and blacks and inks and stuff like that to bring it back down and add in more weathering there the metals all feel suspiciously clean and Flat compared to the vehicle which is heavily weathered and dusted and visually compelling So that's my major challenge with the model, but overall a very cool work rich. I really like the conversions I like how it came out. You did a great job All right next up JD recently discovered hobbyqueen cheating and quickly became a fan Red green color blind I chose a red army because I like frustration. Okay volume shading highlights in the hole and turret The idea was a light was coming from the front at an angle Weathering and battle damage and of course generally back sure so our lighting is not far enough We'll start there We I have a video on panel modulation on the different types of panel modulation and what it means to you know How the lighting can can function on vehicles, but we need to go farther here We're not respecting enough of sort of the shapes and the angles and catching light along them Like I'm you can't this is off camera, but actually, you know, let's do this See this my wall right over my this is a wall right behind me. Everybody can see this in the camera Okay, see this wall right Here there notice how the lights are up here on the ceiling, right? But see this area of shadow up top here and as it gets toward the corner it goes down Right by the staff Shadow coming up here right That's so do those are just flat surfaces with flat panes of light hitting them, right? And you can see how the walls themselves are reacting to it So in the same way you're gonna have the panels modulate, okay? So that would be my number one thing go watch the panel modulation check that out now as to the weathering It feels like we could use a little more like sponge type weathering something like that smaller chips and dots We have some good decent sized holes and scritches and scratches But we need to bring in that small size damage. It would all I would also expect things like pigment dust stuff like that Just to add weather texture dirt grit grime Final thing when you're applying decals, I would go watch my decal video I talk about how you blend to them in because the challenge here is I can still clearly see the decal outline You there is a series of steps you need to take with those to fully integrate those into the piece So yeah, go check out those videos overall. It's a good start. Keep pushing my man All right next up Philip First of all Philip knows I love battle tech and knows I love full-size battle tech I despise teeny tiny max the reason I don't play battle tech is because it's because I don't want to paint a mech That's this big. That's boring and awful and they all look dumb, but this This this is how battle tech should be they should be the size of Imperial Knights this I'm into I am deeply Into this deeply Okay At any rate, this is amazing So love this dude The He looks nice. I like the color scheme Yeah, I like him with his little friend by the way in front of him. That's fun The the weathering here looks good. I like the different, you know, we're gonna flip through the different sort of You know armaments and things like that I think the weathering looks good It might be need to be a little more directionally focused again same thing There's probably not enough brown and black type of scratching we've probably jumped too far to too much orange rust So here we've got almost the opposite problem as the last time like we don't have enough Brown like the nerdle model we had too much brown not enough orange. You have too much orange not enough brown Right, so we need more of the generic sort of brown rust weathering grime Stuff like that. That's that's gonna be here. I know he's on kind of a deserty planet But then if that's true if he's on a deserty planet I would also expect the blue side to be showing me a lot more yellow sand in between his feets and Joints and stuff like that so Those are kind of my main things we also need a little bit more panel modulation So that the panels themselves are a little flat more value more more panel modulation more variation of value So those are the areas that jump out beautiful looking base by the way, I really like that That looks super natural. It's great. The tuft needs some paint needs some some wash and some paint But that little green tuft is the only thing breaking me out of it the desert rocks and desert sand I think look really nice So yeah, super cool. I Dream of the day when someone makes a full-size or a print in general of the mechs that I want to print And paint because I am a fan of a very Select set of mechs mostly the 2750 and 3025 variants You know the Atlas the Banshee the Black Knight and these do not exist in prints that I can find For the right for the right variants, and I'm particular. I'm very I'm a man who has a very particular set of tastes So anyways Super cool. I love this more of this please throw a battle tag at me all day with giant size full-size battle tag And I'm there. All right, Jacob So dreadknot and first time having to pose a model this big when putting the kit together I struggle with the right pose at one joint and how it would look that would impact the next joint in the overall look So advice on that painting tried to make the armor true metallic green blue But I lose a lot of the shine when applying the color on top of lejo metal color chrome. I use as a base Sure, how can I bump the shine and still control the shade and highlights? Yeah, okay so let's talk this through um it's tough to tint metals and effectively what you have to do if you're so the way you need to do it is You need to Tint the metal when it's steel So what I mean by that is if you watch my video on like speed painting with true metallic metals, right and zenith all You'll see I talk about creating a black to bright silver Zenith all sort of from the rip in just silvers. That's where you start. Okay then over that you take one to two extremely thin glazes like through your airbrush or whatever of the color So that you're really just filtering the color and You're gonna rely on the fact that you've already created on the silver level shine and shadow To do the work for you When you have to do that little work as part of your additional layers, you've got to put on too many layers You're gonna kill a shine So that's my advice there now as to the posing I mean sometimes it can be tough My best advice is you know kind of learn as you go along with when you do more of these I mean I People screw up poses the first time a big monsters. I don't know there was a great way to do it You can try like blue tacking things together And then just see how you kind of build out the pieces or dry fit them and stuff like that But I'll be honest. There is no great way and so Those would be my pieces of advice for you also with this type of metal You can also sell it by then going in and re-scratching it and revealing metal underneath Non-tinted metal underneath so screeches and scratches here is where you can reveal like a steel color or something Or having a claw mark in that's like steel But then there's a bright silver line on the bottom Something like that is where you can sell that and that will rip that will put the metal idea back in everyone's mind in a big way so There you go. Hope that helps What we have a cheese on a map there, okay? All right, so two more left here We go probably something a little different to me at t34 85 and 148th scale So the modulated paint styles divisive topic in the traditional armor modeling community was someone who entered scale modeling from painting Wargaming mentors has always been something that I'm enjoyed. Yeah, I mean, yes, it is so I believe in panel modulation There are many different types of panel modulation of That is to say you can have it be more traditional zenithal you can have it be panel to panel You can have it be up lights down lights There's there's a hundred ways to do it and and scale modelers are a stodgy bunch of people who believe that realism means making things in one particular way and That's not an insult to their community. The scale model community has been doing it longer than us and better than us But they have a very as a sort of collective group, you know an idea of what is traditional scale modeling and My answer is there's nothing wrong with that, but it's not the only world I love highly over accentuated contrasts and panels and or zenithal schemes or whatever like I said there's lots of different lighting schemes you can do and and Their art like this is an artistic pursuit None of this is realistic none of it Because realism is a nonsense concept You were we're like if we were really concerned with realism We would ask all sorts of important questions like is it cloudy? Is it sunny? What's the lighting addition like because this tank would look vastly different and have vastly different lighting if it was noon on a sunny day Versus 7 p.m. On a cloudy day Okay, versus The golden hour when the bright sun in the sky and it's kind of and there's it's a bit red, right? Versus moonlight would make the tank look very different. What's realism realism is capturing the light in an interesting way because there is no platonic form of light of a model it doesn't exist absent its Surroundings and avoid like we take pictures of them. They exist in a world that is occupied by light and color, right? So the I say that to say whatever you find compelling is correct Okay, and don't let anybody ever tell you otherwise as long as it's a coherent artistic expression Then it's fine Now as to this guy. I think this is super cool. I like it I think you've modulated the panels in a pretty minor way, honestly I'm like you didn't go huge in on it. So that works for me nice very nice collection of weathering here I love love where you have collected the weathering and rust patterning that looks extremely natural to me Right along the panel lines in these depressions at joint metal joins. Yes Molto bene on that around rivets and things like that. It's fantastic that the Handles and stuff like that that people would be regularly grabbing Feel more more weathered because they've had, you know, human hands scraping them constantly. So that's a great touch Just a lot of little elements to this. I quite like I think this is a fantastic Tank, I think your your weathering is really what stands out to me the numbers look a little too clean They feel like they don't have enough of the streaking or dots or they're not broken up quite enough That's like the 341 in the circle here It didn't feel like it it feels like it was put over the weathering when it should be the other way around like the weathering and scratching Should be happening on top of it. That's the only thing that really jumped out of me from this but yeah, so there you go overall very cool and Finally tiny tank resin and metal pans are for from flames of war Yeah, I mean this is a very tiny little tank When it's this small and you know you said your hand brushed it's tough I would maybe think about some more weathering. I've got a couple different vehicles on weathering Vehicles I would check those out because I feel like in this kind of scale It can be cool a cool way to break it up and you know when your hand painting a vehicle like this It's tough to modulate and then panel modulate shadows. You could always try a little bit more It needs more contrast of value, but I think you could also achieve a lot of that through Through contrast by of hue through the weathering and stuff like that So some chips some scratches some rust some streaks things like that is what I would look to So I hope that helps the lint Alright, so there we go. That brings us to the end of this month's review Thank you all to everybody who submitted as always if you'd like to join us check out the link below And you can you just have to click that you must answer all three questions If you don't answer all three questions, you will not get in the group But as always I very much appreciate everybody who submitted. Thank you to everyone if you're out there Watching this in your part of the PMP. 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