 This video is brought to you in part by TrueTechTools. Quality tools, essential support. All right guys, so we're working on a Lock and Bar Boiler. Actually two of them as you can see down here is the bottom. It was here on an overtime call. It was having problems with it wanting to drop out on flame scents. Ended up adjusting my air here a little bit. The book I had was off, was not accurate. So I called the factory today. Today's Monday. Got it set for what they said it was supposed to be. Also, check gas pressure because the burners were setting their flames were lifting up off the burner. So I talked to the factory, made sure I got everything down pack. I don't do a bunch in Lock and Bar. So anyhow, ended up going through, pulling out these first four or five burners here, making sure, you know, there's anything causing disturbance as it's coming out. Got everything back together and it wasn't right. Talked to the factory though, got the gas pressure set right. Burners settled down. They're just a little bit of a flutter, but not too bad. Got it back together, trying out the new Testo 300. And CO is 800 parts per million and I think it was still rising. The heat exchanger is a little dirty. I don't know if it's ever been cleaned. I'm going to pull this face off right here and we're going to check it out and see what we got going on. I hadn't done this before, so I thought you guys would be interested in seeing it. First thing I had to do is take off this plate. It's important that this thing stays sealed. Take out these four screws here. Break that union loose. Out comes the burner, which we've got. Two of them here. Need to yank out the burners. All right, on second thought, I wanted to see if it was possible just to pull them out. All was one. I really didn't want to have to yank out the 352 screws that was in there. That allowed us access now to the heat exchanger, which you got a little bracket there. It's broke. It has quite a bit of crud build up here on this side here and this is where my flame disturbances were the most and that's the first stage area. We're going to try to clean that up. You can see I just, not good. Looks like it should come right out. I didn't really recommend hitting it with anything hard like a true hard wire brush. When you're pulling out, you want to make sure this doesn't get disturbed until it's kind of had better days. But let's get this thing cleaned out. I got a brush out there I use. Oh yeah. Oh yeah. I can see that causing a little bit of problems with our CO levels. Not burning very clean. Just a little bit. Holy crap. Oh yeah. This is time for a mask. I breathed in some of this from blowing it out with nitrogen. The burners and that stuff about killed me. You can see how good you can get into that. The depth of that versus that. Yeah, this should run a little bit better. Unfortunately we got another one down there. It's going to need the same thing. These are the stricter plates on top of the burners. Some of it I think came unbolted or unwelded. But we really needed to get in between there. We got a good majority of it out. But for the most part I got to admit this is a really nice design. Compared to most things out there you never get into it that quick or easy. I've always worked on more of more Well McLean and Burnham boilers and I have anything else. But Locking Fires seem to be what I see the most in Smerch Lab. You know, the bigger buildings that I'm at. Doesn't seem like it's sucking very good. Seems like it kind of sucks. Not in a good way though. No, this is what it was originally for. But this little brush here works perfect. It's in there. It's soft and it knocked all the crud out. Now you can see light coming through nice. It's a hundred times better than it was. We got it all swept back up here. Not perfect. So I'm going to get this thing back together. And we'll fire it off and see how things go. Hopefully my numbers look really good when we're done. Don't see why they wouldn't be. Everything else is right now. You got, differentially you got to set your traditional point there. And you got to tap onto the one that comes down here to the burner chamber because this burner chamber is pressurized. First thing I did though is set this up for the 1.2 to 1.35. Once that was set, then I set this gas valve. You got to put the cap back in the gas valve to get an accurate reading. If you don't, it's way, way off and you can't get your finger in there to put it over top of it. Even as you're screwing it down, it changes. So it's very sensitive to that. It's definitely got to be put back in there. Factory said this is an O4. Now these here, they're just a V shape. And that V shape is going down in between the tubes. So you've only got a small little area that they can come through. You can see it right there. So with that little bit of gunk on it, it's going to throw it off. And if you can't get your exhaust fumes out of there, you're going to have a concentration of them and your CO is going to go sky high. I can't help but wonder, you know, how long has it been like that and did somebody adjust the gas pressure lower to make up for it possibly? It's really not that hard to do it right here. As you can see, it definitely got it all together, but it would be nice if that was replaced. Well, I'm going to pop this sucker up there. You can see everything looks pretty good here except for over here, which I've seen this when I was first working on it. But here's where your igniter comes through. So that there probably wouldn't be bad if that was replaced. They gave me a part number when I was talking to them. So yep, let's get this back together. So obviously the factory said remove the burners. The biggest thing I would say you have to do if you're going to do it like I just did it is make sure you keep it lifted up. So pulling back at the top, pushing at the bottom, keeping it level. Go in, make sure you don't hit that divider. Don't skid it across that refractory plate, otherwise you're going to tear into it. All right. So just kicked on, on, on. You got to make sure this thing stays tight or it throws things off. That's why I put silicone on it the other day and I was able to break it and still reuse it. So there's inspection port here on the side. Looks a lot better than it did. Looks a lot better than it did. See if I can get this thing booted back up and see what we got. It didn't have it charged yet, so I've been charging out of my power pack. Been running for a few minutes. See what we got going on here. All right, here we go. Oh, the CO is starting to jump up. O2's came down some. It was a 10 or so. Definitely not much better. Hatch dang it. This is the first time I've used this, so excuse me for not really understanding everything about it. But I went ahead and pulled it out, pulled it to the start and stop. I'm going to go back in there and see what we got. It says sometimes around 250, which is higher than what I've usually ever seen. So that's what the factory was saying. I always heard under 100. Since we have all that cleaned up, I figured my pressures would be off by a little bit and it kind of worked. So I went ahead and adjusted it 1.25 across our switch. I said 1.2. Go ahead and start over here. All right, so this is the bottom. It had quite a bit of crud too. Not as bad as the top, but it looks a lot better than it did. Cult factory again, they ain't got an idea. They said don't make no sense. They don't even have ratings for it. Usually it's just under 200 parts per million for CO. Go ahead and get this. I may have to adjust the gas back down. I don't know what else you can do. People that make it and they do the tech service still have an idea of what am I supposed to do. Not an engineer, but I play one on YouTube. Total flipping mess. I'd take it outside and dump it out. Got everything cleaned up in there. This is the bottom one right now. CO is not too bad. The factory said usually around 200 area. So why is the other one so badly off? CO2 is just as high as what it was on the other one. I think it was 10.5. All right, now we're going to go ahead and do the top one again. We had good readings to what the factory says. We'll turn it up a little bit higher. What we're running into here is, you know, there's not much load. Going to adjust it up to the very top in 135 area, 138. They don't look bad at all. That's what's really crazy. Can't really focus very good with this thing, but that's kind of the crappy thing about this inspection port, but it looks fairly good. So I'm gonna stick it in there after it starts running for a few minutes. Might be a ray of hope here. They said it could be in the 200 range. Our O2 is a little lower. I'm wondering, I mean, it's still kind of high, but I wonder if it's because of the stuff that's probably floating around inside there yet. Burning off, not burning right. There's still some flakes and stuff in there floating around. I wonder if that has something to do with it. I mean, it's not climbing as fast or high as what we did the first time, which makes me think, okay, after it sets for a while, it runs for a while, is it going to be there? Okay, this is wild, so I went just half a turn on my gas valve, already at 120. I'm going to do a half a turn on this one. He said, and you may have to lower it just a little bit, go maybe to 4.4, but yeah, that's what I'm doing. Looking a lot better than it was at 400. Obviously had too much fuel, it's incomplete combustion. Unfortunately, it's fairly warm out, so it's satisfied. I set that back down to 160, which is where they had it at. The limit set for just about 175. It's running cleaner. I mean, we're under 200. I'm going to leave it at that. Just took a half a turn. I didn't check the pressure yet. I got to check that yet, but I know when I was coming up to it, it took several turns to get up to it, so half a turn is not going to do anything much, but yeah, that's crazy. All right, so we're back a different day. They called in, said it tripped out, but then he reset it and it's been running fine since. However, looking at the flame, it doesn't look all that great. You can't hardly tell, you know, it just finally went out, but we were running right 140 CO, so it's technically where the factory said it was going to be at. It just shut off, but when we came back, we're going to clean these burners out. We're going to wash them out and then adjust whatever we got to adjust to try to get it where we want it at and kind of see how it does from there. All right, so here's where we're at. Like I said, I went ahead, cleaned the burners, added foam tape around it because the silicone had a couple of spots where it was letting some air leak out. Brought this down to 1.22, 1.25. Figured out how to check the microamps on this controller. You can't see it because it's hidden way back in the back, so I pulled out these two screws, popped it up, put two jumpers on it. We're going to check microamps to see where we're at on that. You can actually use the microamp setting. We're going to double check our gas pressure on this valve here. I originally had taken it back a half a turn from factory or from the setting of 4.6, which was what they originally wanted. So I put it back, basically increased my gas pressure back to where it was at. So we're putting the maximum required gas in there with a minimum air. We're going to see how it burns, see where our microamps are. It did better that way. Now, the consequences was originally that my CO levels were high, but if the boiler isn't going to run, that's more of an issue than anything else. And at that point, as much as I hate to say it, it might be time for a new boiler. We've done everything you can do. We've cleaned the heat exchanger. We've cleaned the burners. I've pulled them out, washed them out. Inspected everything you can inspect. We checked draft up there in the flue. They're just fired. Okay, that don't work very well, doesn't. There we go. So they want two, and we're right at 2.3. So a little slow on how long to pick the sensitive, but honestly, that's pretty good. I mean, we got two, and he said he's the guy I talked to on the phone from the factory said that sometimes we leave and run with less than two. Let's go ahead and pick this analyzer back on. One of the best hats out there, man. I've had a thing for over a year, and it's held up better than all the others. Collars stayed, and it cleans up good. I ran it through the wash. Definitely worth the money. So let's see what we get here. I'm going to let it fire, then I'll stick it in. Kind of look at this like this because when it heats, that's when we're going to see the change in the microamps. And then usually there's a delay after it's firing. See how the igniter has to let off? The igniter just let off, and all of a sudden, boom, there goes the 2.4. So we're holding pretty good. That seems to be on a lot of the modules. It must be some sort of a delay mechanism they've got in it. I've seen it on all different brands. So anyhow, there's that. So 2.4, enough to keep it running. Gas pressure looks a little out of whack there a lot. That's a big time off. Pretty sure we're on the right spot here, aren't we? No, I'm on the wrong side. All right, let's correct that. All right, now that we've got it in the right spot, we are at 4.55, 4.57, 4.6. So see, I ain't playing games with you. It just fired back off when I took that switch, pressure switch hose off the T to switch it around, it dropped out. As you can see, we're doing it right off the bar before it just comes inside this pressurized box where the gas goes into the burner. And that's all there is on that. So let's see what we're at here on our CO. Because like I said, originally I had made some adjustments because it was acting dumb on me. The factory said, you know, it can go up to 200. At this point, I just wanted to run. And then we could always talk about going something new if we need to, but it's not jumping up super high. We might have had some gunk built up that was still floating in the air. I mean, there was a lot of debris, but let's just watch out for a little bit longer and see what we get here. So far, I'm pretty happy. We got 2.4, 150 something, gas pressures close enough, perfect as you can get it. I don't know, it's me. It seems like it should stay running. I bet you anything. I mean, all I did was I brought the gas pressure back up a half a turn and I tweaked this down to maybe 0.2 less than what it was. I had it at 0.13, which was below what they said the max was. And yeah, this is a 2004 boiler, but it's in good shape yet. I mean, it's in a church and it's not like it's getting used a lot. So not like it's getting hit hard. We're running 160s and it hasn't ran for 10 minutes like people like to see, but I mean, usually if you've got a problem, she's going to go stupid. Grazing. I love it. We'll see if I can get this thing to print and we'll leave that for documentation. I can figure out how to do it. I haven't read the manual on this thing yet. I don't know. It's holding pretty good. We'll take a screenshot here, that right there, and see if I can print. All right, so we're back again because of a flame failure. It crops out at 2. It started out at 2.3, 2.4. Check my draft. We're right in there. I mean, this ain't the right probe, but better than nothing. And we are not overly drafting and we are teeter-totting. So we're holding in there at, it's supposed to be like 0.001 negative. All right, so what we ended up doing was siliconeing around the igniter and ended up doing it around the burners. I swapped the burners. The one with the little port I moved on to this side of the one with the igniter. Siliconed around the screws and readjusted, tried adjusting it from the 1.2 to the 1.35. Put it right back at 1.25. Microamps every time is held right in there at 2.3 and eventually builds up to 3. And according to their sheet here, all that's required is, all that's required is two microamps are greater. So at this point, we're going to go and try it one more time. If I don't get it, we're going to order a new control module. But yeah, I mean, even right now it's like, why are we getting 0.1 microamps sitting there and stand by. I hook my meter. It goes away. So it's not, it's not straight voltage or something in the meter itself. It's in that. So that's where we're at. So on to the next.