 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. You'll never have to be sick. What's up guys, welcome to today's vlog. Today what we're gonna go over is a longer haircut. You can see it right here. So it's a long haircut, nice long fringe to it, but a lot of pieces, a lot of texture. We went through with the razor and created almost a concave layer look, but you don't actually have to elevate your arms. So it's gonna be a lot easier way to cut concave layers if you like using the razor. We're also gonna use a Donald Scott carbon comb, which is one of my favorite tools. So you can see this is the cut. Also, I went on Instagram and I posted because I'm gonna color this mannequin in the next vlogs. So I'd like to see what colors you guys would like to see the mannequin. Also Joyco sent me a ton of fun colors from their color intensity line. So I have all these fantasy colors to play around with. So I would really like to know what color do you wanna see? You can post that in the comments, but also go follow us on Instagram at free salon education so that you can be up to date with any of those kind of posts and you can start giving us your opinion because that would be cool as well. If you wanna get involved in this post, this is what it looks like and you could choose from any of these colors and we're gonna make the mannequin that color. Hope you guys like that as well. All right guys, so we're gonna get started with this step-by-step haircut. Let me know if you have any questions in the comments below. I'll try to answer those for you guys. Thanks for watching. Here we go. All right guys, so we're gonna start off this haircut by parting the hair on the left hand side. And what I'm gonna do is bring that left hand parting just back to the mid crown and then I cross over mid crown and then come down parietal ridge. So that actual rectangle on top of the head is gonna be a little asymmetrical. That's really gonna be the heavy side of the haircut. So obviously I break down the haircut in two different ways. So the top's gonna be a heavy side and a light side. So we're gonna take it across. You can see how that's kind of offset. So now I know later on I can focus on that being the heavy side when I go to cut it. Now I'm gonna section off the weak side or the part side of the head. So now I know exactly where that is. And basically what I'm doing is I'm separating each section of the haircut. This helps me work with the head shape and keep everything nice and organized. So now we're still working on the heavy side. Now I'm gonna part off everything from that parietal ridge down and I can work on that differently as well. So creating three different rectangles, three different sizes throughout the top of the head shape or the front of the head shape right at that division point. And then we're gonna start our work in the back. So today the tool that we're gonna be using is the Donald Scott carving comb. I've used this on many haircuts. It's one of my favorite tools. There's two different versions of the carving comb. There's the silver version which is the carving comb wide which has wider teeth in the comb. And then the carving comb fine has finer teeth in the comb. But both tools are exactly identical when it comes to the actual razor. So it's really, do you wanna wide tooth comb or do you wanna fine tooth comb? I like the wide tooth comb for working through a haircut quickly creating texture just like we're doing in this cut. So we're gonna be creating those concave layers like I talked about. Cool thing about cutting concave layers when you're using a razor is that you don't have to elevate your arm very high. So I'm holding everything straight out in front of me. I'm just starting closer to the head shape and then working heavy strokes with the razor and working my way out which gives me that concave effect to the haircut which will collapse the shape. But I'm still using everything, still using strong guidelines and all of that but because I'm using that wider stroke it diffuses the ends of the hair a little bit more and creates a lot of really nice texture in there. The other thing about the back, how I'm cutting it is everything is coming back to the center back. So I'm over directing to a stationary guide which is gonna allow me to push a little bit of extra weight towards the ear which I like because it gives me a little more of a natural kind of feel to the shape in the back of the head. I like seeing that kind of weight line build and get a little bit heavier towards the side. I don't like seeing those short layers follow all the way across. If you wanted that, you could do that definitely. So now we're gonna work on our weak side or our part side of the haircut. And what I'm gonna do is just elevate that nice and high, work with a heavy stroke with the razor right in front of the head. This is gonna give me a face frame which is great. A lot of you guys have been asking for a face frame haircut on longer hair. This is a perfect technique for that. Just working your way back diagonal back over directing everything straight up so you get it nice and light and cutting your angle in there. Now you could see how that face frame kind of builds up a lot of layers around the face. It's really nice. So now we're gonna work on the underside of the heavy side of the haircut. So what I wanna do is just a much heavier stroke with the razor on this side because I wanna remove a little extra weight. I still wanna preserve the length though so you're gonna see me kind of pull out with my finger so it gets nice and long towards the inside of my finger but I'm going nice and short towards the top. Now we let down the top. I comb everything off to the side. I'm gonna have, this is more of like a disconnection at this point coming off the back. Because we went mid crown, some of that hair hangs over the back. So we'll deal with that in a little bit but I wanna go through and create the fringe or the side bang. So what I do is I take a guide from the other side, from the part side, just a little piece and I connect it that way. I comb over, I use the 100% carved side on the carving comb. This is the cool part about the tool. Then I grab the same section up and I go to the 50% carved side which takes out 50% of the hair to create a little texture in that bang and also lighten it up a bit. So this is a great haircut for medium texture to thicker texture hair to go through cut a bang but then go through and lighten it up with the 50% carved side. So that is pretty much the end result of the haircut. What we're gonna do is just connect the back. So I take vertical parting across the back and just connect it to those layers that we created. And I continue to work forward just to the ear over directing everything back and connecting it. So you can see how much texture is built into this haircut. It's what I really love about it and it works in even longer hair than this. So if you have a client with longer hair, definitely go ahead and do it. This is the Bercato Moose. I'm putting that in to start my styling. What I'm gonna do is blow dry this haircut straight and iron it out and then I'm gonna do some dry cutting in there just to kind of fine tune the haircut a little bit. It's already got a lot of texture so that's not the point that I'm trying to make in the dry cut. But I wanna go in and just add some definition to it. Sometimes with a razor, your lines can be a little bit more shattered. So I just kind of clean everything up a bit. So we go through flat wrap with the blow dry, nothing fancy here, but you can see that I lift the hair with the blow dry or with the brush. The reason I'm lifting that hair is so it doesn't get so flat to the head. When you're prepping hair for dry cutting, your goal is to really make it fall as natural as possible with as much flexible movement. So you can see how I brush the hair one way, brush it the other way, lift it. So I'm giving it that height at the base because no one wants flat hair, they want smooth hair. So just smoothing it out, focusing on that scalp to mid-shaft. Then we're gonna go in with our Bercato Vibra Straight Iron and just polish the ends. This is the cool thing about when you do the blow dry the way it should be done. When you go through the blow dry and you're doing your leafing technique and you're really polishing the base, all you have to do with the iron is go mid-shaft to ends and you create a lot less damage on the hair because you're doing a lot less work to the hair. Also the Vibra Straight Iron vibrates as it passes over the hair so it helps separate the hair and smooth it out without damaging it as much because it's not roughing over the cuticle. So really like that iron, you could see all that texture and you could see how it kind of bevels in. That's all that concave layering that we created before kind of collapses the mid part of the hair. So same thing with the fringe, bringing it over to me and ironing just the ends just to curve it a little bit, give it that kind of head shape feel to it. So the other thing you'll notice is I'm using a wide tooth comb for ironing. I like to use a wide tooth comb in dry hair because obviously it goes through it smoother. So this is the 337 comb from YS Park. Now we're gonna go through and I'm gonna do some point cutting. What I wanted you to see here is the sectioning. I definitely was not in frame so you can't see that I'm point cutting but now you'll be able to see a little better with the point cutting. So it's a really nice vertical entry with the scissor. So I'm really just softening the edges, not trying to take out a lot of texture or weight in there just softening the edges, making sure everything really connects the way that I want it to. So I'm not changing any angles to the hair or anything like that. That's really the key goal there. The other thing I'm doing right now is I'm separating the fringe area and the front of the haircut because I had some disconnection in there from cutting the fringe. So I didn't wanna go really and cut into that too much with my point cutting because they're different lengths. So I separate that and I go through and just soften it with a point cut. Now we work on that disconnection a bit so I'm gonna go in and do a little bit of the tease cutting technique which you guys see me do a lot. I love this technique for softening the hair. If you don't know how to do this technique, definitely put that in the search bar on our YouTube channel because there's a bunch of videos on how to do it but it's just a soft open and close of the scissor. So you close as you tease in and then you pull out and then you close as you tease in and it just cuts the hair nice and soft. I did a little point cutting in the fringe and now a little side cutting on the weak side just to blend in a little bit of layering but you can see how nice and soft that falls, cool shape to it. That's the really fun part about this haircut is because it's a longer haircut but you can really see a nice shape which makes it easier for your guests to style it. So we did the style two different ways. So I did the smooth style so you can see what that looked like and now we're going through just real quick with a curling iron, curling everything off of the face and just to open up the face and show off the layering in the haircut. So one other thing I want you to notice as I'm going through and curling the hair, I'm leaving the ends out. What that's going to do is just give you more of a natural wave effect but I like those kind of straighter ends throughout the haircut. So here's our finished look. I'm going to use Bercato Maximum Hold Hair Spray to spray through there just to give it a little bit of hold but you can see the fringe, you can see all the layers and the texture. Hope you guys like it. There you go. All right guys, like always, if you like this haircut, then make sure you hit the like button, hit the share button, share this video with all of your friends and also run over to our Instagram page at free salon education and find the Joyco picture because I love to hear your opinion on what color you want this mannequin to be and then we're going to film the new vlog. I'm also doing a live video on Instagram now so while I film the vlog, you guys can watch. So I think you'll enjoy that too. You can participate in everything that we're doing. Hope you guys enjoy it. And one more thing, if you get a chance to share this video with your friends, all you have to do is take the link, post it in the Facebook or anything else and share it with your friends. That's the biggest compliment you can give me and then tag me in that as well because I'd love to see it and say thank you. So thank you guys for sharing the video and I'll see you guys on the next one. Thanks. 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