 Hey guys, welcome back today to retro tech. Look, I hope everybody's doing wonderful I don't know about where you live, but my area got a big snowstorm last night And this is after an ice storm that happened Three or four days ago. So we already had a good thick layer of Slippery ice all over our roads and then we got three four inches of snow on top of that So I'm pretty well snowed in and the temperature has been really low here And I'm sure it's been I mean it's been a low polar vortex all over the country So anywhere in the United States if you're cold, hey try to stay warm and But what I'm going to go through today is we're going to look at a Ikegami CRT. This is the TM 20-80RH and This monitor was part of a lot of monitors that was brought into the shop recently local Let's go ahead now We're going to look at some of its technical details really quickly on this monitor because this is not something I've had a chance to really cover before so again. It's a 20-inch monitor It's an 80 series color monitor designed to be high-end broadcast monitors, and these are grade one Master monitors meaning this could be your main Monitor in your broadcast studio, and then you could have other little 14-inch monitors for example or other Monitors without controllers on them in series somewhere and use this as the main monitor So it has superior technology We'll talk a little bit about that here as it's listed on some of these features which again this Ikegami technology uses a shadow mask technology. So the electrons are shot through three individual Electron guns inside the beam there And so you'll see all these parts in a minute in real life But just so you know that this one has a self-converging Electron gun that assures convergent stability. So it has a very solid stable Convergence on the screen at all times. There's also 700 TV line, too This one is only standard TV. So it's only analog this monitor does not do HD TV which was kind of surprising because I thought maybe it would but it does not actually it does support a factory probe for color temperature calibrations And then rack mounting some more specifications right here We've got our input voltage. So this one can go from 100 to 120 and then 200 to 240 with the 10 percent variance In any of those numbers so it can accept pretty much Global power from an outlet as long as you get the proper cord into the connector on the back It's an auto select between 50 Hertz and 60 Hertz So it's going to automatically go for a PAL signal or an NTSC signal Automatically detect that should switch over to it. These are the TV line models. So if you get this TM 20-90 RH That one actually has 900 TV lines and the rest of them are 700 the weight on this monitor You're looking right at 84 pounds on post. That's just a little bit of technical information I'll put links to this data in below if you want to get more information on that but let's talk a little bit more about our Monitors again, this was a four package monitor deal that were that was brought to me three of them were the 80 Rs and then one was an older model that I have covered before so we're not going to actually talk about that one Now the good thing was is the majority of these monitors worked initially but They just needed to be thoroughly cleaned they'd never really been adjusted or at least not since they were taken out of service professionally So what what you've got here with this ikigami design is again a full rugged metal shell There's not a whole lot of plastic in here. So there's a lot of It's really tough and it's it's meant to last and they're also meant to be serviced So you can pretty much remove real easily every Section of the shell on the outside, which is pretty common for broadcast technology And then when you get in here You look straight at the monitor and on the left-hand side is this first board, which is this outer board This is our deflection board These might be some of the places that you'll want to check out for capacitors if you have any issues with geometry and Now this one does have a lot of screen controls built into it inside That we'll go over later once we start looking at the software and the actual front hardware on the monitor But here is the actual deflection board inside there It's the outside board now if you do have an issue where you you could tell these capacitors There they are next to some hot items for example over here We've got these two nestled between a resistor and a diode and then a transformer But down here you've got some four smaller heat sinks and then some surface mount capacitors over here Which at this point do need to be checked So I went through you know and looked at a lot of these made sure that there wasn't any because I didn't have any trouble again Go through the software with actually making the adjustment, but you always want to come through here clean it out Make sure that this is all looks good You don't see anything leaking or any evidence that you may have a capacitor fail because again They are in clusters and then behind it the good thing it got me does is they do a good job of dissipating the heat off these boards Right behind that is our main power supply board, which you could tell by the transformers over here and then the large heat sink large Capacitors so that's on the left side as you're looking down from above And then over here We've got a little bit of an interesting design where the flyback is moved up and this was again something that you would see on Barcast, but it's moved up to its own little board and it's set on the side here You've also got a heat sink Some capacitors in case you want to check those a connector and then a lot of those lead into other places that eventually wind up into your CRT socket and that's one of the two Neckboards on this particular monitor. You'll see the second one in a minute and just a quick look here at the back and The here's our yoke rings over to this side of the screen So if you have a purity Adjustments you need to bake or convergence adjustment you can look at that and then you've got your coiled anode cap here and The coming straight out of the flyback and then under that in this section is a Framed out area that's filled with your input boards. These do use an actual Panasonic tube in them That's 700 TV line tube is made by Panasonic and so it's a shadow mass to which just means it curves on all sides and That it has the three Individual electron beams shot now. This is the back of what I was explaining where it had The breakout board that was actually connected to the back of the tube. Well, it breaks out to this board on the back which is a very complex Circuit board involving what you could see six heat sinks and many capacitors surface mount capacitors another This is another board you want to check out, especially if you're having any issues with your color or anything like that You don't want to just leave that You'll want to check it out in here. So thankfully again, there was not really any issues with this board Here's our power input. There's a little fuse jack right next to that again This one was from 2003. He actually had brought three of them in the most recent ones from 2006 So surprisingly it was a monitor that was made well into almost the end of the lifespan of the CRT completely so You could still find these in really good shape or you could find them where they've been used a lot because they were also made In the early 2000s Now let's look at some of the performance on the screen first off I want you to notice one of the coolest features on these ikigamis and most fun designed things are these pullout drawers Which are just a push drawer that pops out and it gives you a nice smorgasbord of Adjustments that you can or you know controls you can use to make adjustments and it's it's much more user-friendly. I think that just the Sony's you know get into the service menu and do it from there It's a little bit easier to use the wheel a little more fun and then you actually have a listing here So you can swap between Right between the adjustments you want to make so if you want to make a horizontal Adjustment and then switch over to a different adjustment. You don't have to cycle through Through for menus like you might in the Sony's service menu You can just switch directly to the next one and it also is accompanied by a very good Service menu with that. So as you make those adjustments, you'll get a digital reading on the screen as you turn those adjustments So just wanted to show you some Screens after we've made some adjustments here and the screens looked really good, but that's what you're going to use is that Wheel and those different adjustments on there very simple Compared to some of the other more complex monitors as far as getting good geometry out of it So I've got some Super Nintendo 240p RGB s pictures behind here and What you'll notice about the The shadow mask especially like for example here on this You kind of see how it has the different dot pattern Then if you had closer pictures of a trinitron where you might just get that one single aperture grill on each line And then instead of just the actual dots that looks more like a shadow mask, which is that shadowed Mask again that the electron beams are hitting and lighting up you know and energizing so you get a good clean picture So that's The majority of the main features on this monitor, you know if you're thinking about possibly getting one of these just Note that you'll want to check like the tube where I couldn't find an actual hours counter in here But I did notice that Sometimes when I get Ikegami's since they are broadcast monitors They can have a lot of hours on them and so the tubes can look washed out now there are some things you could do obviously with adjusting the flyback and adjusting other things that you can actually extend a little bit of that life by Just brightening the tube for the most part But it is something that you'll want to be aware of Again a great 240p and 480i monitor. All right guys, so for the remainder of the show We're gonna have a little slideshow with some extra Shots of some of the monitor repairs as well as some of the other monitors that were in this load that got checked out and If you have any questions about this particular monitor model or any of the other Ikegami's I will link to some other videos that I've made as well as the documents for this one but definitely leave your question below and If I can't figure it out somebody in the CRT community can probably help you out But thanks again for watching. I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content