 Okay, it says it is now the meeting is recording. So I got to let everyone know by EMS teams policy that it's being recorded. All right. Well, welcome to a cold February morning, I guess. I'm Ryan Forbes. I'm the area research conservationists out of the Brookingsfield support office. And we have a group of conservation district partners on with us this morning. And we're going to kind of walk through the designs and how to put all the NRCS technical mumble jumble together and try to design a tree plan for a field windbreak and a farm-side windbreak. So with that, what I'm going to do is share my screen here. And once again, someone let me know if you can see the PowerPoint in front of me. Tanya, can you see that? Yeah, it's up. What? That's a yes or no? Yep. Okay. All right. Well, thank you. All right. So this is the windbreak training. Like I said, there's my name and where I'm at and my phone number. Throughout this training, if you guys have any questions, just let me know. And we'll just get into this. So kind of what we're going to cover today is once again, try to put all this information together. So we're going to start in the field office tech guide. We're going to talk about the actual 380 standard. We're going to talk about what is required of the 380 standard. We're going to visit about web soil survey. We're going to hit some high points in the Woodland Technical 42. We're going to discuss and kind of work through these two examples of field windbreak and farm-side windbreak using the South Dakota CPA6 for the tree form. And then at the very end, we're going to talk about job approval authority and what that means for partners. Our state office is currently updating our job approval authority for the ecological sciences. And that will allow partners to be able to get job approval authority for things like trees, shelter belt renovations, the mulching standard, grass seedings and those type of things. So we'll kind of get into that a little bit too. So the first thing we're going to talk about is a field office tech guide. So I'm going to escape out of my PowerPoint here now. And I have a link to this, but the easiest way I would suggest would be to get to our field office tech guide or a web soil survey that we'll talk about here in a little bit, just be a simple Google and you should be able to get to it. So with the field office tech guide, this is where all our standards are at. They all standard specifications, everything about the soils is in this. So when you come in here, you just have to select your state, a word in South Dakota and it's broken into five different sections. And most of the time when you're dealing with trees or grass seedings, the two places that you're going to live inside this tech guide are going to be in section one and there's all tech notes in here. And then you'll notice there's a woodland tech note and a range. So in the range check note, there's a bunch of tech notes in here about basically grass seedings or grass covers. And the one way if you're doing a grass seeding, how to get that grass established that you'll really want to take note to is the printing of vegetation or range check note for. But today we're going to be talking about woodland stuff when it comes to trees. So we're going to be mostly dealing with the woodland technical 42. And if we have some time we might kind of get into this woodland technical 38 which is basically speaks to how to handle trees and shrubs and then like tree fabric and that type of thing. So there is that. So that's in section one. The other section that most people hang out in in this thing is the actual section four. And this is where the conservation practices are. And they're listed alphabetically and the one that we're going to talk to today is the windbreak establishment. Okay. So when you click on this there'll be a couple of different things in here. So there will actually be, they just renamed these naming conventions and I'm still trying to process if they make sense or not. But so you just might have to kind of click on and to see what they really are. But here is the actual conservation practice standard and we're going to open that up in a little bit. Here's a statement of work. So every single line of NRCS conservation practices has a statement of work for typical conservation practices we don't deal much with that. If NRCS was dealing with a TSP or something like that that's when we'd have a statement of work at what the deliverables would be. And then there's the implementation requirements for the practice as well. And the way South Dakota set up you always have a standard and you always have a implementation requirement or documentation requirement for the standard. Okay, so that's where that's at. So now I'm going to click on the actual standard and I have that saved onto my computer. Tonya, give me a thumbs up if you can see that. Okay, thank you. All right, so as basic as this is I really want to stress what the standards really are and kind of how they're laid out with NRCS. And just give you some helpful hints when you actually read a standard for NRCS what it's talking about. So they all have kind of a similar look, I guess. They start off up top, they have the windbreak establishment and then they give you a code and it actually gives you the unit that the practice is actually measured in and for windbreak shelter belts, that would be linear B. There's always a definition with all these standards, okay? So the windbreak or shelter belt single roll, multi-purpose, shrub or linear configures. They always have purposes. And as you can see with a windbreak establishment there are a lot of purposes that you can use this practice for, okay? Lots of stuff. So what we'll be talking about today will be wind erosion, right? Because we're going to plan a field windbreak and probably this one here, how are we going to manage some snow because we're going to have a plan on building the house and putting up some outbuildings and that type of thing that we want to manage for snow in the winter on a cold morning like we have here. Conditions where the practice applies. All right, so this will tell you basically what land use that you're going to be using this on and where the actual practice applies in South Dakota to the landscape. The criteria. So all the practices have criteria and the thing you have to remember about the criteria, it doesn't matter which one of these purposes that you're doing. You always have to meet this criteria, okay? So what this criteria speaks to is a layout of what you're going to do. It talks about the Woodland Techno 38. It talks about your expected tree heights, a worksheet that we're going to go over today. It speaks to using good soils and the species that are going to fit there, not have a noxious weeds being planted, orientate to your wind breaks to troublesome wind. And so all this stuff has to be followed then at the very bottom Woodland Techno 42 for guidance, okay? So in South Dakota, we're very heavy on techno. So we do not put a whole lot into conservation practice standards. We put a lot of our actual technical information in techno. So always remember that. If it's referring to a techno, you're gonna find out a lot more information about that particular practice inside that techno than what the standard will cover. So then a standard will also go through these additional criteria. And this is getting back to these purposes once again, right? So we have peer managed snow right here. So if we come down to here, we gotta do everything in the general criteria up here, but also we have to follow this right here for our manage of snow. So making sure that you, we have a dense enough wind break, you know, that type of thing. All right, and then there's other purposes, noise screen, visual screens, carbon storage, enhancing wildlife, efficiency, irrigation, reduced energy and all that. So remember, figure out your purpose, your land use, you gotta meet the general criteria, then plus the additional stuff to meet the actual standard practice, okay? Considerations, well, what's a consideration? It's just like the word sounds. So a consideration is something that has been proven will help make this, help you implement this practice a little bit more successful out on the landscape. So these things are not required like the general criteria stuff. It's just a consideration, okay? So, but definitely take a look at considerations so you understand how you can improve your chances of having a more successful practice applied on the ground. Then they have a plans and specifications, which will basically be speaking about the job sheet, then there's an operation and maintenance of the actual practice. So how is the producer, how is the participant supposed to maintain that practice? And of course, they have references in here as well. So are there any questions on the conservation practice standard and how to read one of these? No, any questions in the chat, Tanya? Not yet, but I'm not able to send you a link to this to everyone when you send this out. The recording? Yeah, when you send the recording, can you put the link to the tech notes in there too? Yeah, yeah, I could do something like that. Yep, yep, not a problem. Okay, all right, so talked about the conservation practice standard. So now we're gonna jump to the actual documentation requirements or the new name implementation requirements. Tanya, can you see that on my screen now? Okay, thank you. So once again, you have the 380 up here. What's required? South Dakota CPA 6, that's the tree form. Windbreaker status for the job sheet, planner requirements, the person of the planning and week control shall be considered when planning the windbreak, indicate the location on the conservation plan map. So performance or in other words, how are we gonna check this practice out to see if it meets the standards and specs? You're gonna examine the site prior to the planning. You're gonna examine the plan at least annually to make sure it's established, and you're gonna collect all the data that you need on the applied section on the South Dakota CPA set. So that is the documentation requirements for this particular practice. Are there any questions on that? Okay, so let's get back to PowerPoint here. We talked about field office tech guide, talked about the 380 practice standard, talked about the implementation requirements. So now we're gonna get into the web soil survey and try to piece all this information together. Okay, what I'm gonna do is just go, this is the best way to find this is just do an engine search from what I found. Make sure you ask questions if you have some. Okay, Tanya, can you still see my screen? I can't, your picture went away, Tanya, so you probably have to speak up. Yeah, I can still see it. Okay, thank you. All right, so pretty simple. If there's a kind of an instruction thing up here, but it's, this web soil survey is pretty intuitive in how to do this. So it's just like some of the cars that we have anymore. It's like a push button to start thing. So you get in here. So you have to remember this is the web soil survey. It's all the soils have been mapped in South Dakota. So a couple of different ways you can navigate. It's just really personal preference how you wanna do this. You can use a section, township or range in here. You could actually use a longitude and latitude if you had that. But I typically just use those zoom glass up here. So what I'm gonna do is we're gonna zoom in to Eastern South Dakota. And we're gonna go into Kingsbury County, Northwestern Kingsbury County up in here. And we're gonna go to some land I'm pretty familiar with cause this is my dad's farm. So we're right on the North edge of Kingsbury County. It almost rolls stone in here at Clark County. So that's kind of where we're at in the world. And the first thing we're gonna do, I went out and talked to my dad, and he wants to plan a field windbreak to protect this field right here for wind erosion. Okay, so first thing we need to do with any type of grass seeding or tree planting is what type of soil are we dealing with? Cause that's really gonna be the key to how we put this plan together to figure out what species will work the best in that particular site. So the first thing you do is you have an area of interest. One that you can have like a rectangle, but I typically just use this more polygon one. So we're gonna click on that. And this doesn't have to be perfect, you know, for your linear feed or any of that, but we're just gonna go like this. So now we created an area of interest of 6.73 acres over here. And it's gotta drew out on the map like that. Okay, so the next thing we're gonna do is up here, we're gonna hit the soils map tab. All right, so it breaks it down to the 10th of an acre of what we're dealing with here. We're dealing with the clarinol soil, vanilla and Ethan. So what does that mean when it comes to trees and how do we figure that out? So the first next thing you have to do is just come over here to soil data explorer. And if you wanted to, you could spend a lot of time in a web soil survey and I mean a lot of time. There is everything in here from water management, the waste management, military operations. If you wanted to know if this would be a good place to build a playground, road construction, just a house, a basement, any of those type of things, you could literally on an area of interest and spend all day in here, figuring out what would be the radiance for a lot of this stuff. But the thing that we're gonna do here today is get into land classifications. And as you can see, we got ecological sites, we got stuff with irrigation, we got stuff with forest in here. There's all kinds of stuff in here, moisture that you can look at. What we're gonna look at today is the actual tree and shrub group. It's gonna pop that down. So now we got a view description or view rating. And we're gonna hit the view rating button. So what that's gonna do is gonna put these soils into a group. And this is a group three rating right here. Okay, what does that mean? Down here we have ratings and with trees, you have anywhere from a one to a 10. So one being really, really good and three is a really good site as well. So we shouldn't have too many limitations when it comes to the trees that we're gonna select in this particular site. Okay, so then if you want to, you can go in here and do a printable version. I don't know why they got this add to shopping cart thing in here. You don't have to pay money and put a credit card number or anything in there. For that it's just foremaning deal. But what this will do, it'll give you a map, legend. A lot of stuff on the legend, but then the biggest thing, it'll give you the tree shrub group and the description of what it is. Okay, there was one other little thing I wanted to show you in here. So you see this right here, this is a distance calculator thing. This allows you to draw a line to see how long the segment is. So that's like 473 feet that line I just measured. So that'll be helpful when you're trying to figure out the width of your belt. And if you know that they want to have 14 foot spacing and how many rows you just do the math and you're gonna be able to come over so far and you be able to draw your polygon. Then once your polygon is done, you could draw out the total length of this thing to be able to give you a measurement to be able to put your tree plan together. So that's another cool thing, a web soil survey. It actually has that measurement tool there. So takers aren't there? Yep, go ahead. After you draw your lines on there for the measuring, is there a way to keep those lines on there when you print the map or not? Let's see here, I don't know. Let's see if it'll keep the line on there. You might just have to write it down. I don't think it's gonna keep that line on there. Okay. But it doesn't have the distance down here. Okay. So once again, web soil survey is really the old soil survey books that a lot of the offices have in there. It's the way that we do our business now. But there's so much information in here about our soils. It's just unbelievable. And the platform's pretty good. It's pretty simple. They do do updates on this. And so it's stayed up to date, but there's all kinds of stuff in here. Okay. All right, I'm just looking through my notes on the web soil survey. And I think I covered what I wanted to cover there. The technical 42, close out of some stuff here so we don't slow my computer down. Okay. All right, so our next thing. So now that we got our measurement where we're at, the type of soils you're going to be dealing with. That's good. That's good info tree plan, but how are we going to put this tree plan together? So the best way to do that is to go to where that particular standard told us to go on our design for this. And that would be the Woodland technical 42. Okay. So Tanya, can you still see my screen? Yep, we're good. Okay, thank you. All right. So this was just updated here in May. So it's a very, very recent document. And hopefully it's more user-friendly than the ones prior in the past. But it does have a table of contents which is kind of nice to be able to go through what you're looking for. It's not a terrible long techno because some of these tech notes can get very long. But basically, I'm just going to kind of go over some of the high points and some of the things that we're going to talk about in this training today. So tree and shrub groups. Okay, so that's kind of what we found based off web soil survey with those 10 main groups. We know the soils that we're going to be working with is a three, all right? All right, so what species do we have available to us? So you're going to want to use a 20-year height table and we'll get into that. I'll show you what that looks like. And also inside the local NRCS offices in the Conservation District place there, you'll see a blue North Dakota tree handbook. And so you can open that up and any species in that book you can use as well. And we do have a link here to the online version if you don't have the hard copy one in your office. But species selection, it gives you some different things. Be cautious about Russian olive, where you're at in the world. Cedars can kind of be invasive. So if you, especially if you're long riparian areas, green ash, you know, with emerald ash borer, we're trying to figure out some different species for that particular one. It gives some recommendations, try to not have the same species, at least two rows of the same species in the belt. And that's just diversity is a good thing and just try to limit the disease. But that's just a recommendation. I mean, you get out where Mike is up by Custer, you're going to have a lot of limiting soils and maybe there are only like three, four species that are going to grow out there. So that's fine. I mean, you just have to kind of know where you're at and document that in on the tree plan or in the assistance. This is why I have four or five rows of cedars in my eight row belt because these are the only things that grow here. Orientation, any direction can maybe trouble some from a wind as far as snow, wind, wind erosion and that type of thing. Setbacks, always, always look up for utilities. This is one thing as a, when I first started with the agency, like I said, 20 years ago, I was doing a plan out in Hyde County. And it was kind of in the middle of nowhere. I really didn't think to even do this. It wasn't even by a farm site, but the guy he wanted to do some calving in this area. So we designed this basically a farm set windbreak. So you could cat behind it and I didn't look up. And there was big WAPA lines running right through the Northwest corner of this belt. So you definitely want to look up. It seems like it's really, really obvious, but you just need to look up at all times when you're dealing with utilities and that type of thing. We have some setbacks from roadways. These are good, good information. We updated these to follow what the state of South Dakota recommends now. Trying to keep the plannings far enough away from the roads so they are not going to cause a snowdrift problem. This is if you're on the south side of the road, how far away you'd want to be against the road, going with it a little bit closer, tree heights. So if you're doing like a living snow fence for your county, this would be the recommendation to stay that far away from the road. Now, you have to remember as you know, working for the conservation district, every single county has some type of a zoning when it comes to tree planting, right? And you need to know your local county zoning. If your local county zoning is more restrictive than what is in this guide, you need to do that local county zoning guide. And I guess when I was in different counties, I always had a copy of that local county zoning. So I knew exactly what I was dealing with when I was talking to the landowner about trees because every county zoning is, it's really weird because they'll say from the center line of the road, from the shoulder of the road, it's just that their explanations where their start and stop point is, what they're measuring off of is are they're very, very different. So make sure that you know your local county zoning. Design heights, we're gonna look at that 20 year height and that's on a table, we'll look at that. Density is always important to know the density of your belts and basically what you're trying to establish out there. So here's a table that kind of breaks down a density and based off like resource concerns, I guess if you will, so like for wind erosion, three to five rows of deciduous trees, crop protection, you can have a one row belt out there, farm said windbreak, five to six rows are usually dense enough, air quality, we have some stuff in here. And so this is just a good table to kind of show you how density plays into windbreaks. And this link here kind of gives you some pictures of what 40 to 60% dense windbreak would look like. So there's kind of a quick side note here, just evaluation of a density stand. So this would be if you were evaluating an older like CRP planning for a re-enroll. So a lot of our guides are set up to measure trees and determine if it meets the standard suspects a year after the tree was planted, this allows you to come in here, go out in the field, look at the field windbreak, and do we still have a density enough to serve the resource concerns? So for example, say 20 years ago, you planted a farm said windbreak, and at the time it had eight rows in it. Well, now it's down to five rows around that farm said windbreak, three of the rows have died out. Well, if you got this kind of configuration, this is a density thing, you still have enough in there to protect it, and then you'd be able to re-enroll it back into CRP. So that's the idea behind that. Okay, all right, so remember when we were talking about our standards, there was all these resource concerns in there, doesn't this look familiar? So now we got more detailed information above and beyond that criteria that was in the standard. Okay, so field windbreak used for wind control, wind erosion, so wind erosion, it can be designed to protect against damaging winds from any direction, okay? So it doesn't matter if you're planning this belt on the Northwest, which are the primary wind directions, but on the East and South as well. So, and if you've been in South Dakota for very long, you know the wind is always gonna blow, and it's gonna blow from any direction. And if you think about wind erosion and the two times when the soil is really acceptable, a lot of times is when the farmers are doing their tillage. So it's in the spring, but they also do a lot of tillage in the fall. And which direction does the wind blow from? Predominantly, in the fall, it's from the South. So you get a lot of South winds, and there's a lot of fall tillage going on, so we have a lot of wind erosion out there. So we're always gonna base our heights off the 20 year height. We want a 40 to 60% dense windbreak and that's getting back up to our table we just kind of went on. And we're always gonna look at our tolerance losses of tea. That's what this tons per acre per year means. And I got a table that we'll kind of get into here in a little bit with a field windbreak. Windbreak snow harvest, we're not gonna really get into that. We don't really use that purpose too much in South Dakota. This will be something that you will run into as you're planting trees. You'll have a county superintendent come up to you, a road guy wanting to do some type of a snow living snow fence. So here's some design criteria how to do living snow fence. Okay, so today we're gonna also talk about a building site protection. And so this is kind of where we'd get the guide for that. So a couple of different distances that you wanna pay attention to here. When we're in rows, so that'd be up in here, needs to be a minimum of 200 feet away from the structure. Okay, so wind and snow, they have a weird way of doing things and we don't wanna get the trees too close to the structure because what'll happen all that snow from over top of the trees and we'll just dump right onto your building or driveway area, that type of thing. So that's why we have these setbacks. Ryan, that one with our grants that we fill out for the conservation commission, we have to stay 300 feet from any structure. Okay, so just a note for everybody. Right, so then let's get back to my earlier point. If you had something that was more restrictive, you would definitely wanna use that one. So let's say this 200 feet, yep, yep, absolutely. Thank you for bringing that up. So a couple of different other guidelines that you wanna follow with designing these, for the best performance of these things, you wanna get them at least 160 to 200 feet beyond the structure here, that's what that's talking about. And we have major land research unit areas and we're gonna get into that here once we get into our tree planting. So basically it's a soils thing is what we're looking at here. And where we're planting today on my dad's farm, he's in 55C, so that's where he's at. And seven rows is the minimum rows to achieve that winter protection for that. But if you do a couple of different things, you can reduce the roll. So basically you can take a seven roll and go down to, but basically about a six roll in that part of the world with a 55C. If you plant a spruce or juniper or cedar in your first windward roll, if you have a windbreak less than 600 feet, upwind of this belt, that type of thing. Couple of other guidelines, if you think about snow storage, so the wider your tree belt is, the more space out the rows are, the more your snow you're gonna store inside that tree belt. So that's why they have that number in here for that. And it says a narrow windbreak is permissible. So narrow would be less rows, right? Especially if you have a shrub in there and a couple of deciduous or coniferous rolls, because you're not always gonna be able to get seven to eight rows up around these farms of windbreaks. You might have a property thing. The house might be too close. It's just not a perfect world, but try to get it as close as possible. And when you're designing something, if it's a little bit different than what this technical guide lays out, always just write down your decision processes and you can do that on the tree plan. You could do it in the assistance notes on why your decision was the way it was. So this is talking about linear or leeward windbreaks. So basically on the south or east side. So they're a good thing to have as well. Noise screen, that's another purpose of these. I've done a few of these in my career. It's got a design thing here for noise screens, visual screens, wildlife. So if you wanna do a tree belt, the hands for wildlife, it's selecting the species that are native to the area that provide good food and cover for wildlife species using some grasses, upwind of the belt. We have a fact sheet for the shrub clump plantings designs to make it more look like a thicket out there. You know, add additional rows and all that kind of stuff. We'll buy that one, irrigation, we'll go buy, we'll go buy carbon storage. All right, so now we're gonna get into the actual guts of how we're gonna decide to plant this, okay? All right, so these are suggested role arrangements. Does it not mean that it has to be done this way, but these are suggested. Anything in an NRCS technical guide has years and years and years of experience behind it. And what's laid out in here is what NRCS has seen to have the best success. So it's always important that you try to follow this as close as possible, but your sites will always be different soils, space, everything will always be limiting. So you always have to just plan to according to your site. So guidelines for road arrangements. For wind breaks less than five rows, any of these rows are acceptable. So the way you would read this is this is the number of your belt, rows of your belt. And we know on the farm there, we're gonna do a seven or eight row belt. So we're gonna be looking at these two deals. And here's our, we're gonna do a field wind break as well, which is gonna be consistent of five rows. So with your shrubs, your cedars, where do you put those, your deciduous trees, your pine, where's a good place to put your pines if you do a pine and your tall trees in a five row belt, vice versa. So that's how you would read that chart. Any wind break greater than 10 rows, basically you just wanna pay attention to the tall deciduous trees in there on that one. It gives you some guides in here for snow break, each mid-sized trees can withstand a crushing, strongly recommend a roll two. Additionally evergreen planter would roll one, you probably shouldn't put a shrub in roll number two. So if you're gonna do a spruce or a cedar an outside roll, just because what snow can do to it. Here's kind of a neat little guide or when it comes to juniper and cedar, depending on where you put them, is that have them about 10 foot apart for heavy snow conditions if they are the windward roll. So just a typical profile, I guess if you will, of what a belt could look like, spacing guidelines. Okay, and these are for new plantings and these guidelines, we kind of up these distances a little bit over the years, working with conservation districts, working with CRP and FSA. We've had a lot of people come in and wanna move trees because they're getting too close together. And a lot of the species just weren't surviving quite as well. So we did take a look at the spaces and it's basically this is broken out into the first roll up here and then the interior leeward roll. So your shrubs three to six and then if you got a shrub inside the belt be a four to six, eight to 12, eight to 12 stays the same. Eight to 10 procedures on the outside and 10 to 16 on the inside. Tall trees, 12 to 14, pine spruce. And then cottonwoods down here in poplars, silver maple, white poplar and belts with willows and that, have them over 20 feet into your leeward rolls. Okay, so between roll spacing on average most of your tree belts are gonna be your between rolls are gonna be between 14 to 16 feet. A more common one that I see I guess when I go around is 14 feet. Try not to go over 20 feet your between roll spacing. And if you do a tree belt you should always have an isolation strip. These would be the strips on the windward and the lever side of the belt. Making sure that you have enough space there for the producer to go in there and mow down the rolls or do anything like that. If you have a fence over there you're gonna wanna do your average of spacing then plus four. So if my average spacing is 14 feet I'm gonna wanna have 18 feet from that last roll close to that fence. So this kind of gives you, yep go ahead. Can you explain that isolation strip for me? That's a new term. Okay, so yeah, I sure can. So what an isolation strip would be? So if you take a look at this profile what it's talking about so this is the in between roll spacing Michael. So yeah, 14 feet, 14 feet, 14 feet, 14 feet, 14 feet. Pretender's a fence out here on this side. You're gonna wanna have that space 14 feet then plus four. So that fence should be 18 feet away from this isolation. So this is really the isolation roll. Then over here you might have a field of corn and soybeans. So you wanna be 14 feet away from that because they're gonna probably be using chemicals and those type of things. And just for drift maybe they're doing some tillage because you can creep into here because your fabric's gonna come out. Your average fabric is six foot. So you're three foot over here. So you can get really close to that fabric. So that's why it's good to have an isolation strip Michael. Does that make sense? Yeah, thank you. Yep, you bet. Thank you for the question. Keep them coming. Do we have any questions in the chat or has that been pretty quiet? Nope, that's pretty quiet right now. Okay, sounds good. Okay, so this once getting back to this special design to show you kinda what you'd be able to do with your rows and machinery gaps and just all that, how to put one together for a firm set windbreak. Twin rows, I know there's one conservation district that still does this. I think it's down by Parkson. Not a real common thing in our state but we still have that in there. So really, really 20,000 foot view of this guide. This is a guide that you should print off and have in a Thunderbook or something and review from time to time to help you be successful in designing your tree plantings. Okay, so now we talked about web soil survey. Excuse me, went to the Woodland Techno 42. All right, so now what we're gonna do is we're gonna go to our South Dakota CPA six or our tree form. Okay. Kate Tanya, will you let me know if you can see this? Yeah, it looks good. Okay, so here is the South Dakota CPA six tree form and this is a document that we've used for years ever since I've been here but in the past I would say at least five to six years we made it into a tool and it's got a lot of neat little features in here and we'll kind of get into that but basically the guts of it, the tree form is just starting out right up on top. So what you're gonna wanna do is you're gonna wanna fill this out as much as possible. So we're gonna call this Forbes Farms. The trees are gonna be planted in 2021. We're in Kingsbury County, farm number one, track number one, field number one. So these would be FSA, Lingo. We're gonna do a field windbreak. It's conservation practice 380. It's we're gonna do it for Canadian with CRP and here's this major land resource area. Okay, so that's what I was talking about with the soils. So we're in Kingsbury County. So we're Northwestern Kingsbury County right up in here. So if you look at where we're at, that's 55C. We were in Brookings County, it'd be 102A. And the reason that's important to get that right, and sometimes you might be kind of right on that line. So you're just gonna have to decide which side of the line that you're on. 102A, you're gonna have quite a bit more option. It's just a little bit better soil when it comes to trees. But for the west you get the harder these things are gonna be when it comes to that 20 year height table. Some of the species might not need to be available to you depending on what you do there. So you wanna make sure you have that there. Could you repeat that please? Kristen's raising her hand. Do you have a question? You can always put it in the chat too. Yep, I think she's gonna have to chat. All right, I'll just keep going. If she types in a question, let me know, Tanya. Okay. So we have a resource concern. Sorry, I'm gonna interrupt. She is having trouble getting into the chat also. So she can't ask questions that way either. Okay. So I'll try and help her. Okay, could she text one to you too or that too? Yeah, that's what she's doing. Okay, thank you. When she gets that question, just yell it out please. All right, president ground cover. Well, on that field, we looked at a web soil survey with soybeans. Okay. So you're gonna wanna ask the producer or the farmer what they had for herbicides and why is that? Because herbicides can have some carryover when it comes to trees. Products like Atrazine, those type of products, there's a two year carryover when it comes to trees. And there's guides out there that will tell you that. But the best thing to do is figure out what chemical they put on that land a year before. And find the actual product label. And just you can actually pull up the product label and basically like you're reading it right off the jug on a Google search or that type of thing. And it will tell you how long you have to not plant trees in that particular site. We're not gonna do a fallow in there. There's no utilities. We did look up and we're gonna do the one call and we did not do culture resources out there because this is the CRP. And we do not need to address our culture resources. One thing that we're gonna do is we're gonna have Lyle go out there and do basically a light disc to kind of level out the land a little bit. We're gonna do the planting method. We're gonna do a machine. He does want some tree fabric and he wants some grass seeding between the rows. So the planting assistance is done by me. Down here in the front of this page of this form is we have practice certifications. So this would be when you planted it. Who was planted by doesn't meet the standard specifications and you certify by it. How was it measured? You'd put the actual fabric and everything in here and how you actually measured it. You'd also be able to put the performance or take a picture and put it by the tree plan or whatever in there. And that's we'll get into job approval authority at the very end of this. And that's when you'd be able to certify off on this stuff. Okay. So this is the second part of the tool. And the good thing about this tool, there is a video that explains exactly how this tool works. And I think it's down here, right here. And that's in the technical information tab. Okay. And you build a click on that video and Mark walks you through this entire workbook and everything in it. And in fact, this month, we're gonna update this video because this tree form that you're looking at, it has a little bit, some other functions in it and it hasn't been updated in a while. So definitely we're taking the time to watch this video and the new one that's gonna be released on this because this was a 2016 video. But there's a lot of information on this particular worksheet. So what these are is the CBA-6 establishment. One, this E stands for establishment. So now here we go. So now this is what our tree plan looks like. So you kind of start up here at the top. Our site number is gonna be one, MLRA. Remember we did this in the front page, but it's also good to double check this and know that we're in the right spot. So we got that up there, 55C tree and shrub groups. Sites. Well, when we did our website survey, we found out our group was a site three, right? So that's that. And if we click over here, we have a whole bunch of tabs and I'm trying to find the one. Here's another link to the video. And this is probably a better way to get to that video thing, because you can actually open this up and see the full video. And there's a timeline, so you can click on these. If you didn't want to see the renovation part or the establishment part, or maybe you're just into the tools, you can jump to those links. So, conservation tree shrub groups. Well, remember when I said that Ethan soil, Clarenal Ethan soil that we had CEB? What does that mean? Here's a group one. Group one is really good soil. There's really no restrictions when it comes to this particular soil. Group two, the water table is probably gonna be high here. These are gonna be more wet sites. Group three is a really good soil as well. Group four, decent. There's a four C, five. Now you're kinda getting more into a sandy soil, more of an upland. Six D, now you're really kinda getting into a restrictive layer into that. Six G, you're getting into some gravel here on that particular site. Site seven can be a tough site. Site eight, and it takes you through what all these sites mean. In group 10, basically, we got all kinds of problems up. There's something with the depth, the texture, the drainage, the slope. It's not recommended to plant any type of trees on a group 10 soil, especially if you're getting into a CRP or an equip or something like that for cost share. It just, group 10 soils are really a no-no when it comes to trying to plant trees out there. But if you run into that and there's existing trees out there and something kinda looks funny with the soils map, you can use our area soil scientists. They can come out and take a look at the actual site and see if the soil's map is actually accurate or not. And typically they are, but it's always good to have someone come out there and take a look at it. All right, so we're gonna get back into our tree plan. Based off our web soil survey search, and we did our area ventress, we found out that our soil was this, CBA, and it is a group three. So I put group three all the way down here. Now our isolation, we're gonna stick with 14. But say, and the way you do these tree plans, if you remember my map, our belt was running north to south. So basically we're gonna start on the west side of the belt and work our way east. So that's the orientation of how you put these tree plans together. All right, so we got our MLA 55C up here and we got our spacing. Like I said, that 14 foot seems to be a pretty good one. We don't have any fences or roads, so we're just for our isolation strip. We're gonna leave that alone at 14, but if we did have a fence on the east side of this, you could jump that up to 18 feet. So basically anything with green is a fill in. All right, so here is like a typical belt that you could put together, you know, busy with the producer, what they like. I know my parents, they like lilac, so I threw that in there. They also do like cedar. So I put cedar in the second row, in honey locust, a little bit taller species than bur oak and then the spruce at the end for this particular belt. So there's a couple of different ways that you can do this in here. So this is a site three. And if you notice these little, kinda green little check marks in here, if I go down and put a, let's see here, trying to think which one would, I know which one will work in here. So for whatever reason, we're gonna go here to this bur oak roll, taller one, and he really likes cottonwood. So I'm gonna put cottonwood in there. What just happened here? This red thing kinda came up and what's going on here, in our tab down here, we're gonna go to our 20 year height table. And that's in that Woodland Techno 42, it's explained in this 20 year height table and we're in East Central, South Dakota is where we would be in a 55 seat. So here's all our groups that we just went over, right? So they're all up here. They got the species broken out by a common name, deciduous, and then coniferous down here. He kind of, well, actually I'm gonna go the other way. So why did that thing and the tree plan, the way Mark designed this is pulling this information in here automatically. So if we go down to cottonwood, which is right here, and we scroll over, you notice that there is, here's our site three and we come down to here, that's blank. What that is telling us from three all the way to group 10, which group 10 is not even on this list because remember what I said, that group 10 is just a no, no. Cottonwood really likes his feet wet. So group one will basically, you can do about anything on those. One K is usually a typical more of a wet and two and two K are definitely a more of a wet site. Okay, so the species of cottonwood likes his feet wet. So all these other sites, three all the way up to nine W are gonna be too dry, too gravelly, something for that particular species. So that's why it's drawn that red check mark in our tree plant. Okay, here a couple of other things on this table as long as we're here, maturity at height. So this is when the tree is mature, we can expect if all things are perfect and that cottonwood doesn't get disease or gets knocked down by a storm or something like that, it could be 80 feet once it's tall. In 20 years, if this was planted on a two K site or a two site, class two site, it would be 35 to 40 feet tall in 20 years. So it's either difference 80 versus 35 to 20 or 35 to 40, I'm sorry. Okay, any questions on this table? So if your species, and that's the other thing, if your species that you're looking for isn't on this table or isn't in that North Dakota tree handbook, that's when we're gonna have to start looking at a variance or waiver process. And not that we can't do that, it's just you'd have to work with your local district conservationist and have them request the species that you'd like to try planting out there. That request would come up to me. I'll either suggest it to our state resource conservationists, Jessica Mulhulsky at the state office or I'll just tell them, no, we're not gonna do that and just return it back to the DC and it just ends there. So, but we definitely want to try different species out there and try to get as much diversity out there as possible. So, but these are the ones that have been proven to work. All right, so let's get back to our plan. Okay, so I'm gonna switch that back to Burroak. So let's look at this plan. So when we read through our Woodland Techno 42, it said that basically we could have for winter erosion, we could have one to three rows and potentially up to five if wildlife was kind of a factor as well. So this producer wants to do five rows. So, and let's take a look at Lilac. There's our Lilac cedar, honey locust, burroke and spruce. We got six feet there. That's from one plant to the next plant. 16 feet for our cedar. Honey locust, a little bit bigger species, I went with 12, burroke, I went 18 and in Black Hills spruce, I went 18. And typically with the spruce tree, if you plant them about 18 feet apart at maturity, that's about when they would be touching each other. You get much closer than that. What'll happen? They'll grow into each other. You just won't have enough air movement through those trees and they will kill each other out. All right, so how did I come to this type of design or how did I put this together? Okay, so this is cool thing about this workbook. It has all the information right out of the Woodland Techno 42 that we did. So I tried to make this look similar to this. Just kind of going up and down. Right here, here's my shrub. First roll, windbricks, three to six feet. Well, I'm pretty sure my lilac, common lilac is a shrub and it's eight to 10 foot tall in 20 years. So if I go back to my design tab, three to six and I, when I try to do this, I try to always use the bigger number. I guess that's just kind of what I do. But to each their own on that, then if I come down to, actually I wanna go up. Okay, so let's look at my five roll belt. Where can I put my shrubs? Or where it would be a suggested place. There's a roll one, two and five. Well, I wanted to be able to drive along that tree belt and see those lilacs. So I'm gonna put them in roll one. And this says that that's a good place to put that. So if I go back to my tree plan again, roll one, common lilac, I went six for in-row spacing. So I got that down, cedar. All right, in row two. Is that a good idea? All talls my cedar gonna get. So I'm gonna come down here to my coniferous planning, roll on over 20 year height. I'm gonna get about 14 to 16 feet out of that guy. All right, so let's go right to my design. Right here, we got a cedar in juniper column. Hey, it says go to row two, right? And if you remember these kind of guidelines for roll arrangement, you know, putting cedar on the outside and trying to, you know, to adjust the spacing. We're not doing that. We're not putting our shrub on the inside of that cedar roll on the cedar roll two. So we're not gonna have anything to do with snow. So that's a good thing. So all right, so my cedars in junipers. Now I'm on the interior of my belt, right? So I'm gonna look at, okay, here's my cedars in junipers, 10 to 16 feet. So let's go back to my tree plan, which is this one, 16 foot. I went, I got 14 foot space. All right, so honey locusts. So I kind of want to get that pyramid look again. So honey locusts a little bit taller tree. So let's take a look at that one. Where are my honey locust heights? Right here's honey locusts. I go on over. So this baby is gonna get 50 feet tall at maturity in around 20 to 22 feet on a group three soil at the 20 year height. All right. So if I go back to my tree plan, okay. So I said at my 20 year height 18, one more thing here. My 20 year height here was 20 to 22 feet height at maturity. So if I go to my design, more of a mid-sized 25 foot tall tree. I'm in row three, so I can do that. That can get fairly tall too. So I'm there, I'm good there. So site three or row three is good there and row three is good there for a five roll bell. So go back to my tree plan right here. There's my honey locusts. Okay, burroke. Okay, same process. You just kind of work your way through this. Go back to your 20 year height. There's shrubs. We're gonna get another deciduous trees. Burroke is right there. 17 to 19 feet right there, 50 feet. Okay. So similar maturity height. We're in row four, so we can do a mid-size or tall right there. So we're good there. What about our spacing? Well, the 18 feet is where you'd wanna be for grand terrier rolls, mid-size or a tall. Go back to my design. So this book isn't really gonna tell you or correct you in here, this workbook, if you adjust these in different roll arrangements or the spacing is a little bit off. That's why it's important that you just kind of toggle back and forth until you get a feel for these tree designs. Black Hills spruce. Start the process all over again. You go here. We're gonna come down to our coniferous. Here's our Black Hills spruce. They're gonna be 18 to 20 feet at the end of your 20 year height. They're about 50 feet tall, but 18 to 20 on a 20 year height here. All right, so we're gonna go back to our design. 18 feet. We're gonna wanna put fabric on all these rolls. Our linear, you gotta remember, we measured our, how long our belt was gonna be. So every roll is 1,400 feet, let it north to south. And we have a fabric. And we're gonna wanna put some tree tubes on some of these. Lilac, we will wanna put tree tubes on. Cedars, we don't. Scrooze, we don't. But these two species here we definitely do, especially the burl, because burl is like candy to deer. So we definitely wanna have tree tubes in there. And in fact, I think there is tree, is this the one? Maintenance, tree protectors. This is not the most up-to-date with them, Techno 34 for tree tubes. And that's in the field office tech guide as well. And we actually have a list of trees and it's good to put tree tubes on. So I'll have Mark update that tab. All right, so if you would want to alternate, you could click on this, and then you wanna alternate to similar species as far as maturity, height growth patterns and all those type of things. So that's how you could do that. And our next design thing here, we'll kinda get into that a little bit. So are there any questions on just this simple, five roll field windbreak? Any questions in the chat, Tanya? No? Quick comment for ya. Yes. I have never planted cedar at anything other than 10 feet. Okay. So this is kind of awakening. So if we go back, so let's take a look at that example. So if we go to our design, so cedars, what the recommendations would be eight to 10 and then 10 to 16 on the interior. And then if you're... If you're doing a PRP plan, Ryan or one of the species were and they're putting their 20 feet apart and they're ready for a root. Can you repeat that? The DC in our area is doing a few years of plan and putting cedar trees 20 feet apart without getting approved or does he have to get approval to do that? Well, at 20 feet apart, that's really kinda outside our specification. They would have to have some type of justification why they would be planting them because if you think about 20 foot apart, so if one of those species die, well, now you're 40 foot from tree to tree. And a lot of times this cedar and juniper, this was one that we updated a little bit because that used to say like six to eight or something like that. And six feet together with cedars, that's just too close. They are crowding each other out. It's a tough species and that. And so that's why we upped it. My mentality is I wanna give these trees as much space as possible. So that's why when I look at these tables, I tried to go with the bigger number, I guess, too, Peggy, would be another reason that I do it that way. Because I just had so many people come in and say, I wanna move these trees because they're too close. And why do we plant them too close? Because we expect some failure out there and replants and all that, especially when it's not in a yard setting where they can put some type of irrigation on them. But the trees are growing pretty well, especially on the eastern side of South Dakota. And further west you get, you might wanna go a little bit closer together just because you might be losing some more out there because it just gets drier and the soils are just tougher, right? But over here, you know, along the interstate of the eastern South Dakota, we get quite a bit of rain. The soils are usually pretty good for trees. So that's, I guess, my reasoning behind it. So. We got another question. So what would you recommend instead of Juniper Cedar, especially in the area where they spread? Instead of that? Yeah. Oh, if you're looking for coniferous spruce would be fine, spruce trees, pines would be fine as well. So, yep. Gary, you definitely wanna pay attention to cedars where you're putting them. There is no doubt about that. So, when I started out like, go ahead. You never have cottonless cottonwood listed. Are we not supposed to be planting that? Because we do a lot of planting of cottonless cottonwood and that's not on the, it's not on your form at all. Cottonwood is on there. But not at the hybrid. So does it matter? I mean, because we just write in cottonless most often. Yeah, that, as long as it's a cottonwood species that, so basically what you're talking about if it has the seeds or not, and most people don't want the fuzz, you know, flying all over. So that those are the ones that mostly be planted. Back in the 80s and 90s, it was kind of the other way. So, yeah, you're fine there. Okay. Okay, another question. Sure. Example cottonwoods in soil three plus, if there's a plan to irrigate, would you recommend? No, I would not, I guess I would stick to that site capabilities and where that species should live. Just for a simple fact, how long are you gonna irrigate? And that type of thing. I would just, I would really try to put these species where they belong and the right soils because there's trees are, they're so hard to get going anyways and we wanna give them the best ability to have the best chance of survivability. And that's why following the recommendations and these tech notes and the soils and all that are so important to give them the best chance because we're in a grassland prairie here in South Dakota. Trees weren't really a thing here before we settled in this country, especially along the rivers and that type of thing. There was pockets of trees and that type of thing but in a grass prairie ecosystem that really goes against trees and that's why it's important to know the soil and know what you're dealing with. So my recommendation would be know not to do that. So does that make sense? Okay, one more question. She heard that male hybrid would have a shorter life. Is that true? Can you repeat the question, Tanya? Male hybrid cottonwood, does that have a shorter life? I do not know the answer to that. I've heard that too, but I do not know if how much truth is behind that. Cottonwoods can live a long time. I know that it's one of the species if you drive around in the landscape, you can see some really, really, really old cottonwood trees. Quite often we hear that, and they break off all the time in storms and I think it's because they grow faster so they're not as strong, but I think that we've heard like 15 to 20 years I've seen them live longer than that, but that's kind of what we were hearing. Okay, any other questions for you? I'll get a question for you. Okay, what happens if you have a straight stretch of trees and in a small section of it, the soil types is 10, Chinese elm and green ash are currently growing in the area now. Okay, that's a really good question. And I'll go back here to this tree plan here. And this is perfect case scenario where the soils are that group three all the way through. But just say that you have, we're doing 1,400 feet and from the north edge of that belt, and you could put this in here, north to south at 700 feet or something like that is group 10 soil. And you could put like do not plant in there or whatever or maybe the soil changes. Maybe it goes from this group three to a two. So a wet site. So cedar and honey locust and bur oak and spruce, they're not gonna wanna really be in there. So what you could do is you could come down here and make kind of a secondary plan for that. So you just would start out again and just kind of describe where you're at in the tree planting and put like willows in there. And maybe you do five rows of willows right through that at 700 foot mark, there's 150 feet of a group two soil that's really wet. You can plant trees in there, it's not a wet land, it's just a high water table thing. And you're gonna have five rows of willow for 150 feet. And you could describe that down here in your notes, comments on your tree, the best probably the best place to describe it too would also be on your tree on your plan map as well. But never feel that you just always have to plant these belts that are straight through. Alternation is important, but getting back to the question, if that's a group tan and you see other trees in there, you could document in the assistance notes or on this tree plan that these species are out there. So we do know it supports trees. But once again, if you don't feel comfortable digging in the soil and kind of going through that, what the soil is, you can get a hold of the local district conservationists and then they can get a hold of the area soil scientists and they come out and take a look at that soil. Excuse me. We can determine if that soil really is a group tan soil or not. So that's the process that you would go through there. So, but they would take that all in account if there's trees growing there and all those types of things. So soils are very diverse and with 100, 150 feet, it can change on a dime when it comes to soils too. That's why it's important to know that soil's out there. So, does that answer the question? Kind of a long answer, but it's a complicated, tree plants can get really, really complicated just because of the soils. I think you're good, Ryan. Okay. All right. So, now what we're going to do is we're going to go back to our web soil survey and we're going to go right down the road, back to the same farm, which is in a different spot, a little hand button, let you kind of toggle. So the plan is we're going to put a house out here on top of this hill along this road here and they already got the, they got the basement poured and everything. And so you go out there and you're looking at it. So, and the acreage is going to be something, okay, so about eight acres. So, we're going to come back in here. We're going to pull up a soils map. It's 8.8 acres is a Clarenal Ethan hole. Then their next move is soil data explorer again, go to land classifications. Tree shrub group and view rating. You come down here, okay, there we got a group tree soil again. So that's good. And then sometimes the other thing, getting back to that other question that we just had, sometimes there can be little pockets of inclusions inside these soils. So there might be a wet Tonka in here. That's like a group 10 soil or something like that. So that's why we just have to pay attention on boots on the ground, using your eyes and understanding where you're planting these trees because these soils maps are fairly accurate, but just the scale that they're mapped to, they're not always going to pick up on all those little inclusions out there. But that's a pretty good site. So setbacks. You're going to want to come along here and go like there. So you could do that measurement. So I got that measurement about 400 feet. Now I'm going to come from here and go along here. Right around 720 feet. So that'll give me my belts that I have out there. Okay, so let's see. We're going to go back to our tree planting guide. So we're going to have a belt run in North and South and then one run in East and West on the North side of this house. And then we're just going to assume that we, remember going to the Woodland Techno, we got the trees so far away from the house, that 200, if I was doing that grant like you guys brought up, I'd have the 300 feet away. I'm so far away from the road. I don't have no overhead utilities in this farm site since it's kind of a brand new farm site. Yet it's all underground, that type of thing. So I've taken all that into caution. So I'm still in 55C. And if you remember our design guide, we needed anywhere from seven to eight or six to seven, eight rows in a 55C. So we're going to do seven rows here because we want a decent windbreak. That farm's going to be there a long time. So we want a decent belt out there. And so we're going to start on the one side. So we started off with common lilac because once again, they like lilac. And let's go to our design on this, East Central, South Dakota. And we kind of already been through this with lilac. We've already, we know it's going to work there because it's green, right? In our spreadsheet, but we can come back and kind of double check that. Common lilac is right here. There's an eight to 10. That's how tall it's going to be in your 20 year height. And to be in maturity, it's going to be about 12 foot tall. Okay, so if I go to my design, I'm doing a seven roll belt, right? That's considered a shrub. So I can put that in the first row. And remember I come down to here, windward roll, shrub, three to six. All right, so let's go back to my design. This E2 establishment, E3 establishment right here. So six, there's my 400 foot. This is my site number one. So if I scroll down here, this would be my, on my west side of my house. That's running north and south. So I'm starting on my west side. Remember this goes from north to west for your orientations. Got a 14 foot spacing, 14 foot isolation. That's what I'm going to have. My cedar, I'm going to do the kind of same thing I did with my field windbreak. I'm going to have that row two in there. Going to go 16 feet on that. So if I go back to my design, you might kind of within what my guide would say. Juniors, junipers and cedars. 10 to 16 feet on the interior. Okay, let's go up to here. Cedars, row two, seven. So I got a match and a match there. So I'm in good shape there with my cedar. Go back to my guide. Hackberry, okay. 18 feet, it's kind of where I want to plant it. It can get pretty tall and burrow both those species. It kind of a mid-size to a tall size, both of these species of trees. So if we go back to our design, go down here to deciduous. So we got our hackberry, eight to 20, 55 foot tall burrow, 50 foot tall and 17 to 19. So pretty similar in size. Let's go to my design. Get back to my seven row, mid-size trees. Rows three and four. Tall trees, rows three and four on a seven row belt. So we're good there. What am I looking at for spacing? Mid-size trees, eight to 12 on the interior, 12 to 18. So I'm going to lean more. These are going to get more of a tall tree at maturity. Cause they were at least at 50 feet at maturity, according to my table. So now if I go back to my establishment here, there's 18, 18, threw those in there. I got my 400 foot for my total length. Each rolls 400 feet. So now, I'm going to switch it up on you a little bit. We're going to do a silver maple. The thing about silver maples, they get really, really big. In fact, I've been out on some tree sites in Kingsbury County where they planted silver maple. And you couldn't tell that there's a green ash roll on either side of it because the green ash rolls are completely gone. And it looks like they didn't even need to be there. That's how big these trees can get. Silver maple are a huge tree. So if you notice what I did here, what was that? I got a question about the silver maples right beside the bur oak. I would add another planting that was done before I was here. And they did the silver maples on the left side of the bur oaks. So the silver maples grow so dang fast. They are already shading out the bur oak. It's something the growth of the bur oak. So is that good to put those two beside each other? That, I mean, a hackberry or grow a little bit faster than a bur oak so you could switch that around, Tanya. So this is just an example, but your personal knowledge, you could absolutely do that. But if you notice what I did here, I went from 14 foot between roll space and I went to 20 foot for my silver maple. You see what I did there? And I went 20 foot to my black hill spruce here. The reason I did that is exactly what you're saying, the silver maple grows so fast that they will shade everything out. And back in our design guide, if you remember this, back in here are between roll spacing. So this is our in-between roll spacing for these silver maples 20. But down in here, this right here, several spaces required due to rapid growth rates, rolls of conifer city should not be established within 20 feet of cottonwoods, poplar, silver maple, poplar and tree willows. So right there in that guide, it speaks to having those rolls spread out. Now, what does that mean? Someone's gonna have to get off the tractor and go back and move that marker out, right? During this tree plant, but that's okay because we want this tree plant to be successful in that planting. So if I come back to my deal, that's what I did here. I went 20 foot from my silver makeable to my burrow oak and I went 20 foot from my silver maple to my black hill spruce and my in-roll spacing is 20 feet. So it's basically, it's 20 by 20. So if you think about that, those species like cottonwood, silver maple, those type of things, thinking like a 20 by 20 square around them. So when you're planting these things, does that make sense? Yeah, thank you. Yep, you bet. All right, so we're gonna move on to my black hill spruce. All right, I kind of want these. I don't want them any closer than the 18 foot because I like to look at them when they're barely about touching each other and that's right around 18 feet. Well, let's take a look at my design. Am I kind of close on that? We'll appear spruce interior, 12 to eight to 12 to 20. I went 18, so I'm within the specification there. Seven rolls, spruce, roll six. It looks like it's good there. So I'm good to go. All the finish is spelt out. I'm gonna wanna, they like to make some jam and that type of thing. So they decided to do some choke cherry out there. Borba shrub, right? Six foot there to kind of mash the lilac and put 400 feet there. Fabric on everything here. And then I wanted tree tubes on the hack bur oak and the silver maple are the three species that I'd like to put the tree tubes on right away. Just protect from deer and those type of things. So this is our belt that's on the west side of our house running north to south. So we started on the west side and we worked our way to the east if you can visualize that. And this is site number two. And you can mark these sites down here on your location map. You have your section and number, township range number. I don't have that filled in here and you can use these drawings down here to orientate how they look on the map. A lot of times I'll put that right on the conservation plan map or the aerial imageries on it. What site numbers they are. If you want to, you can do like a JPEG picture of your conservation plan map and insert a picture in here. I've done that in the past as well, which is handy for the tree crew as well to see that. All right, so we covered the west belt. So now we're gonna go on the north side of the house and we're gonna kind of do something a little bit different here. Once again, when I like that lilac and cedar, so I'm kind of making these look similar. So we know we've been through this design before six foot, 16 foot on these, that's fine. So here's this alternating thing. So hackberry and honey locus. I want to alternate these two different species and that's okay. The one thing that we can do and I definitely recommend doing some type of alternation. The thing that we preach all the time with our grasses, our crop rotation is diversity, diversity, diversity, right? We should have the same mentality with trees. So don't feel bad about trying to do an alternation in role. The thing that you gotta remember with alternating species is all tall do they get? How wide do they get? How aggressive are they? Do they sucker? Are they native? Are they, do they help fast? Do they spread out? Do wildlife, do they like them? So you wanna have all those things kind of in line with the trees that you alternate on the same role. And where you find out that information is this woodland techno here that I'm gonna pull up. This is called the woodland techno 37 and this gives you an idea of all the categories that I just kind of spoke about. Native, mature height, spread. Are they good for wildlife food and cover? But these are the things that you'd wanna know right here. It'd be how tall they get, how fast they grow would be another one. So I already have a hackberry in honey look is kind of highlighted. They're both native. They're gonna get right around 40 to 60 feet tall. They're crown width are fairly similar, 45 to 50. And they have somewhat of a same growth pattern or medium and a fast. And if you go down here to the bottom, this kind of tells you what that means, a medium to fast. The fastest two foot or more per year in a medium is one to two feet per year. That's what you expect to growth of those particular species, mature heights, crown width, varieties of native and all the stuff is listed down here. But that's how you would determine plants, their characteristics if you should put them in the roll together. So for example, you would not wanna put like a cottonwood and a shrub together in the same roll or something like that. Very, very drastic differences. You know, it's just the cottonwood just gonna take over the roll, basically. Where is it? So this is the Woodland Techno 37 and that would be in the field office tech guide. And I don't know if Mark actually has one second here and throw this tabs. Tactical information. Here's Woodland Techno 37, Tanya. You'd be able to click on this link and it take you right there inside this workbook. It's really kind of cool. And here's the Woodland Techno 42 as well. So all that stuff is right in there. But that would be the document that you would use to kind of figure out different characteristics of those species. At least that's what I use. Okay. All right, so let's get back to our tree plan. Ryan, there's another question. When wouldn't you use fabric? When would you not use fabric? Yeah. Well, if you were doing like a wildlife planning, a clump planting, those type of scenarios where you want to make it more look like a thicket, maybe you got a species that really likes to sucker like a plum or something like that. Those species, you can put fabric down on them, but kind of their mannerisms, I guess if you will, they want to sucker. That's how they kind of spread so that fabric will kind of hinder that. So maybe you use the fabric to get them going and then three to five years later you tear the fabric off that particular roll. So it really depends on your purpose of the belt and what species you're planning. But if you have a species that is really known to sucker and do a lot of suckering, fabric can really hinder that particular species. So, and as we all know, the fabric is not breaking down as near as fast as they thought it was going to. So, all right. So back to my Hackberry honey locust. So I put those in the row together and I put them at 18 feet. My burrow oak, I put that one at 18 feet as well based off the soils. So this Quicken Aspen, that's a species we haven't took a look at yet. So a little bit different diversity in this belt. This is an eight-row belt versus a seven-row belt like I have up here. And that's fine. This is on the north side. So wind blows from the north pretty hard in wintertime in Northern Kingsbury County. All right. So we got Quicken Aspen. So let's take a look at that particular species. Quicken Aspen. Aspen is one of those that are, they're going to grow pretty quick. Charity height, 50 feet, 20 to 25 feet. So it's going to be more on the tall side. So let's look at my design. I got my eight-row belt here, tall. I'm talking about row five and six. So I'm going to come down here, look at my tall, 12 to 18 feet. So go back to my design, row five, 18 feet. Got it in there. So now I'm going to do a pond pine, ponderosa pine. What's my design say about ponderosa pine? I got an eight-row belt. Let's go up here. And I'm on row six, I believe, right? So there's my eight-row, row six. So I'm within my spec to hit that pine. So if I wanted to put the pine in row five, where that Aspen was, this chart, the recommendation would not be to do that. And that's just the way the spacing, the way everything works out, the way that the trees could get crushed with snow and all that. And that's why this is recommended to do it on row one, six, seven, or eight for a pine. Okay, so now I'm going to come down here. Pine has its own category, 12 to 16 feet on the interior rows. So let's go back and look at my deal and see all I did. Pond pine, 16 foot. Max that out, row six. Black kill spruce. So kind of the same thought process as the pine. Go back to my design. Let's see here, spruce right here, 12 to 20 interior. So there's that. Let's go up to my eight-row. Spruce, there's seven. I'm in row seven, so I'm within my spec. And then I think I finished it up with a shrub. Yep, I went back to my choke cherry. So as I'm sitting in my house and as I look out, I see that choke cherry roll on both sides of these belts. So I went six foot in roll spacing on that. I didn't put tubes on the choke cherry because it's more of a shrub or the coniferous ones. I did it by my aspen, my bur oak. Hackberry, I could do tubes here. I want cedar, I would not do tubes and lilac, I'm not gonna do tubes. All right, so there's my design. That's how you would do this. This is site two, then this is site three. One's eight rows and one's seven rows. So we got enough to protect that farm site. Any questions on that? Okay, this is kind of a handy tab here because this is gonna pull all the information over that we just put into that tree site and you'd be able to put your local, however you do your billing. And this would give the producer a estimate of tree tubes. You can put the cost for those in there, the fabric. Your linear feet, how much you get to plant trees and shrubs. So there's different types of things here. It gives you your total numbers. So just kind of a nice estimate. So this estimate here is right around $14,698 to do all these trees that feel wind break and that farm say wind break. So kind of a nice thing to have there. And to get those prices, Ryan, you have to go into the prices and change to your own prices. Right, right. Yep, yep. Okay. There anything else in this workbook? Go through my notes here. We talked about the 37, we talked about the 20 year height. Talked about the functions of this. I think we're good. Let's go back to that field wind break that we did. And so I'm going to clear my area of interest here because this is the, okay. So say we wanted to do a field wind break in a series with each other. I just want to cover this real quick. So if you remember our, when we first started this training, we did our field wind break right along this road here, right? So say he wants to do something in a series. So if we did something like this and he wants another belt like this, the one down here, or maybe he wants like we did here and he wants another one spaced out here. Well, how far should you put that out? How far should the wind and the height of the trees and all that, should that come into play? And how we figure that out is through this document right here, which is the L factor table, okay? And I'm going to go back to my PowerPoint here and go. So you can see this, this is the soil interpretive groups. In every single county in Warren Kingsbury County, and this is all in the field office tech guide under section, I'd have to go look. But it's in the field office tech guide. It's underneath the soils part. And what this tells you is we're working in this Clarina vanilla soil, but here's our T, our five. And we're going to want to know this number here, this 48 and here's our tree group right here. And here's our MLRA 55C is where that's at. So back to this thing. So how we would do this, we'd find Kingsbury County, that's there, there it is. It's got an I factor of 48 off of that table. And we got a tons per acre of five. So we'd go here, we just would follow this down. So what this table's telling me, 425 feet is how far you'd want to set those tree belts apart. So if I go back to here, so I'd want to be 425 feet. So if I got my measuring tool, there's 700 or some feet. So about half of that. So my first belt would be here and my second belt would be here. So I could set those belts apart, okay? So then if you think about our 20 year height on our table, you would, you'd find your 20 year height and we got something called 10H and 15H. So you take your 20 year height. So what that's saying is how tall the tree is in 20 years or at maturity, you take that times 10 and that will protect that far out. So if you got a 20 year height and you're at 20 feet, that tree's gonna protect 200 feet out in 20 years. So that's how you would tell that. So try to make these in a series and that type of thing. So that's just kind of a quick guide for determining them in a series. So that's another table, that's that table. Okay, any questions on that? Sorry, Ryan, I'm new. Where do you get the table? What's that? Where do you get the table from? Can you show that again? This table here? Yeah. I can send that out. It's on our SharePoint site. I don't think our actual tree form has this table on there. Tanya? Okay. But your table one, this one here, that's in the field office tech guide. And I'll show you where that's at. Field office tech guide, it'd be underneath section statewide soils information. Oopsie. I always have a tough time finding this table once. In here. All else fails, you can go to document search and type table one in here. And the bad part about this, they lumped every county together. So this document's like 700 some pages long. So you'd wanna find where your county's at, then in your print feature, you would say print page 424 to 450 or something like that. So you're not printing out the entire thing. But this is a really handy guide to have because this will tell you your tree shrub site group for all the soils in the county that you're working in your T factor and kind of all the characteristics of that soil. Ryan, why was there such a difference when you were looking at that from Kingsbury County and so I looked over to the left a little bit for Hamlin County. And I think it was using the same numbers with 725 feet. Is that just the difference in the soils? It's the difference. So you're talking about this table here? Yeah. So if you're looking at Kingsbury and Hamlin County, where is Hamlin County? Right to the left. So Hamlin County, the soils are a little bit, I don't almost call them heavier, I guess would be kind of the word for it, where these factors come into play, the way the wind goes across the land. And that's why, like if you had an IF-48 in Hamlin County and you had a TFI, you'd be at 700 feet. Okay. So there is a difference. And that's why you would find that, they call them C factors and that's what these numbers are here, the K factor, 30, 25, 20. Like in Union County, take that same example, 48, and IF-48 out that table. And Union County way down in the southeastern part of the state, 1150 feet. So it makes a difference where you're at. Okay. Okay. All right. So we're gonna talk about job approval authority here. Job approval authority. That's what our skills matrix looks like for ecological science stuff here. I'm gonna open this up here so you can see this a little bit better. So all of our specifications are in here. And we're gonna go down to windbreak. That's the one we're working on today. And these are, they're not alphabetically, they're done numerically. So I gotta go backwards, 380. The way this is set up, it's got the practice up here. It's got the lead discipline, which is ecological sciences. The complexity is a controlling factor. The unit is the type. So there's a five job classes, one, two, three, four and five. So this would be, you could do them for all types except a feedlot, a living snow fence and that type of thing. Cause you remember the different types of designs inside that woodland tecton 42. Class two would be all of them except living snow fences. And then three through five would be all. So any type of design that you could do. And remember with job approval authority, you can always design something. It's just that you can't certify off on it back in. So if we went through with this tree planning, let's see here, right here. And we filled in our applied amount and our links and all this stuff over here. And then in our front page, you can come down here. Cause you can always put your name here for planning, as long as you have something with the job approval authority that approves your plan for you. But then you'd be able, if you have the job approval authority, like a class four or five, you'd be able to say it means stop to go to standards and specs and sign off on it in here. So that's where that comes into play. Cause all of our conservation practices need some type of job approval already to plan and apply them. That makes sense. And you as a partner, you can have, you can have job approval authority. Let's go back to my PowerPoint here. And this is the new draft policy. I mean, this is really, really new cause I just reviewed this last week. And I'm assuming within the next two to three months this will actually become our policy. So how would, how would you get job approval authority to do trees or fabric or whatever practices that you're, that you're doing? So you'd work with your local DC and they, that you would request the job approval authority from. So they would go to their rock with their research unit conservationists and request it through them. So the DC would look at the partners work and the DC would recommend the ability of the partner to the rock. And then the rock, the research unit conservationists would review it and then give the, approve the job approval authority for the partner and then the assistant for field operations. So like Michelle Burke over here on the eastern side of the state or the state resource conservationists would be, which would be just about Halski. They would concur cause there's an approval then someone has to review it like a concur. And then that partner would have that job approval authority. So then you would have, you'd have this filled out and which one you would be and circle that and that type of thing. So then you'd have the job approval authority to actually plan and apply this practice. So if, at the end of the day, if you've been doing a lot of tree plans and you got a good working relationship and you understand the practice and you don't want to have the district conservationists always have to review the work and sign off on the work. And this would help them be able to do their job more efficiently. That's how you'd get that job approval. So do you have to use, get a job approval report for each plan that you do or is that like for the whole season? Nope. So what I would do is, as you become comfortable writing tree plans and you're going through that process that we just did, you know, understanding the design, understanding the purpose, understanding the standard, it's do you understand the application of the practice? So after you do a bunch of them, you might do like 10 field wind breaks in a growing season. And then you might do like three farm-side wind breaks. So maybe you only do like one living snow fence every other year. So maybe you could get job approval authority for the field wind breaks and the farm-side wind breaks because you do a lot of those, you understand them, you understand how to plan them, but the snow fence, you don't do that very often. So you got to do a few more of those designs and have someone review that design and then set it up for the job approval. So basically it's how comfortable are you within the standard? How comfortable are you designing these things? And how comfortable is a district conservationist in you working together to give you that job approval authority? So that's how it works. So it's typically it's gonna take a couple of growing seasons to get some job approval authority a couple of year or two before you really start understanding how to put these designs together and be comfortable with it, right? So just because you write one tree plan doesn't mean you're gonna be granted job approval authority. So it's just with experience with the conservation practice. And that goes for grass eating as well. You could get job approval authority for grass eating and mulching, mulching would be the fabric, put down the fabric. So cover crops, some conservation districts have drills and they hire out the drill and they'll make a cover crop seeding for the producer. You could get job approval authority to do a cover crop. So that's what this entire list is, with all our practices. So what's the difference? You have to have approval to do these now. Was it before that district managers were putting these together without approval or what was going on? No, they were putting them together which is always good. And that's great that you were planning them. So doing what we did, but someone from NRCS typically had been the district conservationist has the job approval authority, they reviewed your plan and signed off on the work. So you were basically covered underneath them. What I'm saying with this job approval authority, if you're really sufficient at it and you feel comfortable with it, the district conservationist feels comfortable with it, you could completely bypass them and just do these tree plans on your own and you would not have to have them look at it if you didn't want to. That's the nice thing about job approval authority. Okay. And it just makes us way more efficient, right? I mean, that's why the soil contact technicians, it's so important for them to get job approval authority in a lot of these conservation practices. So the DC doesn't have to review all their work all the time, sign off on all their work. It's an efficiency thing, Tanya. So same thing with the conservation district, you guys are doing a lot of this work. It'd be really good for you to get the job approval authority. So it speeds up the efficiency of the office. You okay? That makes sense. Any other questions in the chat? Not right now. Okay. Okay, any other final thoughts? That's kind of where I wanted to end it today is there any other questions? We've been on it for about two hours. That's about as much of a team's meetings as that I can handle. I just want to make the statement. Go ahead. Sorry, I just want to make the statement. Had I been given this information day one when I started the job, it would have been so much easier. This information was not even presented to me. And I've been at it like two and a half years. Okay. So I'm glad it was helpful. Yeah, I researched it and did it on my own, but this should be offered to every new conservation district employee in my mind. Sure, yep. Yeah, and I came out and worked with people one-on-one pre-COVID and sit down and go through an actual real plan with a newer conservation district employee. I don't have any issues doing that. Because I mean, a person, you could literally spend an entire day just on one or two of those tech notes. You really could do that. There's just so much information in there. And that's why it's important to kind of read through that and try to understand it and then just ask some questions. I guess, you know, when I first started at my DC helped me a little bit, showed me like one tech guide thing. After that, he kind of left me alone. So what I did do is go through my old files and found some CRP plantings. And I kind of let those guide, let me guide myself. You know, I'd look up a specific wildlife planting and I'm like, okay, I need one for five rows. Look up the old one and see what it looked like. So that was a lot how I learned in this office because I didn't have this either. Yeah, and everyone learns different. I mean, it's just, some people can sit down and read a techno and they completely understand it, right? With me, the way I learned, I have to kind of go through it several different times, go out in the field and try to apply that. And yeah, I just, I don't learn the best just by reading something. I have to do it. I got to almost do it. Sitting watching someone do it, that doesn't make a whole lot of sense to me either. I have to physically do it for me to learn. We're all different learning up speeds and all that stuff. So. I think this would be great for all the district employees to be able to watch this or be involved in this. I think this was fantastic. Yep, well, thank you. Any, Michael or Kristen, do they have any questions? I guess I can look at the chat now. If you look at the chat. Appreciate the information. Okay, you're not asking too many questions, Kristen. Michael, are you good? Did you learn anything? Oh yeah, I learned a lot. It was very helpful. Thank you. Okay, good. So while Wes, you would have the person that has my job out there is Corey Bolzer. So he would be based out of the Rapid City office. So, and Pierre would be Kelly Stout would be out in the Pierre area. So. Our County is a little unique too in that we don't have an NRCS field office. Right. So residents have to go to Fall River or Pennington. Right. Yep. Well, any other final thoughts or questions? Okay. So I'm gonna end the recording now and then I will send that out to Tanya and then you can do what you wanna do with that, Tanya. Well, thank you so much for doing this, Ryan. We appreciate it. Thanks for taking the time to do this. Yep, thank you. No problem. Well, everyone have a good day. Try to stay warm. Stay warm. All right. Thank you. Yep, no problem. Take care.