 Let me now see if you can talk me out of one of my biases. When I eat food in China, there's nothing I've ever been served that I found disgusting, ever, which is saying something. But at the same time, it's rare that I will prefer to eat organs or awful or the various stranger items you might be served. If I look around the world, those items seem to be what economists would call an inferior good. That is in virtually all societies. When incomes go up, at some point, people stop eating those things. My background is Irish. In Ireland in the early 20th century, it was very common to eat a lot of organs and awful. Today, it's hardly to be found. It's revived somewhat, but it's part of a regular diet. It's dwindled. So are awful organs actually just inferior goods? And when people earn higher incomes, they don't want it anymore, and they're worse? Or are they parts of the Chinese culinary picture as good as anything else, and they will persist, even with rising income? I think it's complicated. So in sort of peasant farming societies, you have the kind of nose-to-tail eating. You kill the pig, and you eat every part of it for economic reasons as much as anything. But also in China, the thing that really sets it apart is this preoccupation with the delights of gastronomy and the pursuit of the exotic. In particular, the appreciation of texture. And a lot of awful foods have very interesting textures, like these fire-exploded kidney flowers. They have that kind of slightly brisk crispness with tenderness of a kidney that has been cut in this beautiful ornate sort of crisscross pattern and then stir-fried very fast. It's a textural pleasure. And there are other things like in Sichuan people love eating goose intestines, which any westerner would throw away. If you're a Western person, it's pointless. They're tasteless. Why would you eat a goose intestine? But from a Chinese textural point of view, they're slippery, crisp, snappy. They have a delightful colgan or mouthfeel. And the other thing is that some bits of what Westerners would consider to be old, awful, and rubbish have a very different sort of, is a very difficult concept in China. For example, a duck's tongue, right? From a Western point of view, it's a small fiddly thing that's all bone and cartilage. And like, what's the point? As my father would say, it has a high grapple factor for very little reward. Yeah? But in China, one of the ways of looking at this is that, you know, you've got a whole duck. The meat is very commonplace. Each duck has one tongue. It has very particular textures. It's, you know, if you've got the duck tongue, you've got the prize, you've got the best bit, you know, the small precious morsel. And in the past, you know, before refrigeration, if you could afford to have a whole plate full of duck tongues, the number of ducks it represented, or a plate full of boned goose feet. You know, a goose was a huge luxury, but if you have 12 goose feet from six geese on your plate, you have got the command of, you know, all these ingredients. So I think that there's the sort of, you know, the appreciation of these delicacies exists not only the sort of poor farmers, but the highest tables as well.