 to do two heat exchanger changeouts at the same location. The heat exchangers are cracking through new heating components in it. All right, new guys. Definitely something you're gonna want is a good quality rope, because when you've got a straight ladder like that, it's a little hard to carry things like this up the ladder. Plus, if you get caught by the OSHA people, your company's gonna get a willful violation, which is gonna cost them a lot of money for doing stupid stuff. And you're gonna want to make sure that it's thick enough that it's not gonna cut into your hands. And you guys have seen this thing before. Basically, she's gonna go down there and you can just hook it and pull it up. There's one and there's the other. This one's got a bad heat exchanger and so does this one right here. You know, I used to be a Bosch guy. How many of you guys have been having problems with these switches going out on these? This isn't even a year old. I think it's about four months old. See how it jumps? The smoothness though is completely gone. Luckily today, it's only 32 degrees. The day I was supposed to do this originally was going to be, I think, six. Might get these burners all the way first thing. Makes it a lot easier. I'll hook that. All right, on these burners, something we want to see. Like I've pointed out before, you've got a divot or a rivet, whatever you want to call it, there. So the crossover's there. To this crossover, no rivet, no rivet. And over here, this one's got a divot there so it's gonna be on the outside. Those are getting replaced. Ignitors and stuff are getting replaced. Some of this stuff is borderline, but the ends are gonna sink this kind of money into it. I wanna make this thing last as long as possible. You can see the draft motor's kind of poor condition. It works, but the fan blades are starting to get all laid out. It's just not worth having to come back a year later and saying, hey, you need this expensive part. Then they feel like you didn't do your job right the first time. So we just recommended it all as optional things and they chose what they wanted to go with and then we go from there. There's the heat exchanger, proximity sensor for the draft motor, power wire for the draft motor itself. Just cut them loose and then we'll come back into them here in another minute. There we go. There's one, it's pretty bad. So yeah, that's the reason why. You gotta watch for these seams where they seam it. They do make a stainless steel heat exchanger or it's got some stainless steel in it, something in there. Basically, it's more expensive and it lasts longer. These are just the standard ones. You can check this pretty easily from the side here with the mirror or you can come in through your plate right here. Those are some of the things to look for. They didn't used to give us this restrictor plate that goes in here. I need to check the new one. I believe they do now. Yeah, this part right here, they didn't used to give you that. They used to have to strip this thing out of the old ones, which kind of sucked but now they give it to you. This plate here tends to rot out pretty quickly also. It's obvious the heat exchanger's been changed before because those are traditional 516s. We'll brush some of this garbage out so it's all clean and nice. This part here, they don't give you. So you gotta add that yourself. Draft motors are exactly the same, nothing new on those. That metal tends to rot out. See that restrictor plate thing was included with the other one I believe. Sometimes they include it, sometimes they don't. So you're best off just ordered on both of them. Both draft motors, like I said, are exactly the same. I checked part numbers ahead of time. This other one only has two burners. If you notice, the new ones here are made out of metal. Instead of plastic, so it's gonna be a little more durable. And then we'll just keep our box for our trash, which comes in handy. That way the stuff doesn't get blown off the roof, which, you know, luckily today is a beautiful day. The old ragged flag, it's hardly blowing. You can see the windmills from here. Great day to be alive. One thing I noticed too, the Hitachi Phillips has held up to stainless steel better than the Milwaukee does, which is kind of interesting. Anybody else have a preference on the gloves? I like the jersey. They seem to hold up halfway decent for me. I find them to be warm enough when it's crappy cold out, but believe it or not, as sloppy as they are, they actually, I'm able to grip a hold of screws and stuff. I mean, yeah, they get a little pinched here and there, which causes a hole, but anybody else have a preference on their gloves? Feel free to comment down below. There we go, it's a little better. Now you can be all nice and lined up, criss-cross-cross, makes you wanna jump. Here's some insulation packs that come with this piece here. A lot of times I will put in there to seal it between the draft motor. Now, there will be some screws on this thing that you may wanna steal from it, because they don't give you no extra screws. So if in decent shape, take them out and use them. This piece here goes around like that. White felt on the back side, seals that there to there, but there's nothing right there. So I like to use that little white piece. Use this wide one, or we can use this little one here. Probably doesn't make much of a difference. Personally, I find it to be a little easier to use the wider one. Now this part can get a little trickier because some of these are used for your burners to hold them in place. Like you got one screw, it's gonna go right there. I believe the other one might be right there. So we got that punched out. You can line this up in advance a little bit, makes it a little easier. Sometimes what I'll do is I'll mark my things, because a lot of times you can't see the screw marks once you got the insulation in place. If I was trying to do this vertically, I'd go ahead and probably put the spray adhesive on there, but since we're not, see how those markings all just disappeared and you can't see nothing anymore? That's reason why when the burners go in there, they'll line up just like that right there. Just like brand new again. And then around the outside edges of the heat exchanger, a lot of times I'll glue some of this and I'll just cut it in strips and I'll put it around the outside edge corners of the back side of this. Or you can put silicone, red silicone on there works good too. See that? Just wonderful. Everything's tight and tidy. My spray glue is not working right, so I'm just gonna put the silicone behind there. All I need to do is keep it from the pressurization of the blower there, coming back into the burner area, causing a disturbance on the flames. So may get away with nothing, but I'm just gonna put a light bead or silicone around it. There you go. Sometimes a scratch all or something like that comes in handy to line stuff up. Try a couple of these screws on the outside figured out first and that'll all come together. Maybe a little loose at first until we get our spot. Your longest screws you wanna save for your burner. Otherwise you can't get all the way through the burner bracket and all that all the way back into the other piece. Battery went dead, got a love GoPro. So we've got everything mounted up here. We've got our burners back in. We used our longer screw over here and over there. We used the wire tie, doubled up to another wire tie so that it kinda keeps that away from the metal as best as possible. And then we've got our flame sensor in place. We've crimped down our connectors there. We've had to add five sixteenths to start the Phillips screws. So that's where we're at right now. Now hooking up the proximity sensor, hall effect sensor from the draft motor. These older ones don't use pressure switches. Actually it was more reliable. Now I see they're going to pressure switches that tend to malfunction on a routine basis. So we've got our cross member there all hooked back up. Everything's sealed down in here. Everything's just about ready to burn off the oils on the heat exchanger. Which like I said, I've got this blocked off. So once this is up and running, we're gonna run it, let all the smoke come out. Then we'll open it up and we'll let the hot air roll. But until then I don't wanna set off any smoke alarms or cause any concerns down below. People always overreact when they smell stuff. So they, you wanna get rid of that before it goes down into the working area. One thing we forgot to quote, but I'm gonna replace it anyways, the new four microfarad capacitor. It's right there. It's coming in at 3.6. You always replace the capacitor whenever you replace a motor. Okay, she's kicking on by herself. Turn on the gas. There she is. You could also take the belt off or pull the wire to the contactor on the motor and let her run out, seeing any disturbances in my flames. That's about it on that one. Here's the other one. This is even worse than the other one was. All eight out, all the way down along here. And this is 460 volt system. Made in Mexico. So, there's heat exchanger.