 Hello everyone. Alright, so today what we're going to do is we're going to take a non-FPV drone, which this was originally, and we're going to go over the parts to make it an FPV drone, an analog FPV drone, none of this Wi-Fi nonsense. Now I say that with jest, of course, it's just my opinion when you buy the cheaper Wi-Fi units. The lag is something you really need to take into consideration if you're going to be trying to fly FPV. On the higher brand, higher end stuff of course, they've resolved all that, but you're going to pay the price for it. You can take any like drone, this sort of size maybe, and the reason why I'm going to say this sort of size is because you're going to have some sort of space inside it. So with this one's got more chance at that, but we're going to put in a check bay with me. What we've got to be able to do is the motors in here are brushed, but even if they were brushless, they'd still develop noise, but these are brushed and so there is going to be more noise than a brushless motor. So we need to clean that up a little bit. So what we've got first is a LC filter, which is a inductive capacitor filter, the L being inductance and the C for the capacitor. And here it is. It's a little tiny thing and what we're going to do is we're going to connect this to the battery, one end is going for the battery and then the other end is to go on to your devices. And the first thing that we're going to pop that on to is this boost converter because we need to boost up the battery power from a single cell. In this case, this is a 3.7-volt cell, single cell. 25C it says on there, 700mA and it'll go up to 4.2 volts at the highest charge that you can put on that. But what we need to be able to do is boost it to 5 volts because our camera, our little camera here, I'm going to put a wire on there and I'll show you how to test that. And again for this. Now this is, you know, if you look at it, it's broken, but it still works. I don't need to change channel. I think it's on about 25 milliwatts, which is great for just flying around here. And I can certainly fly around the building and back in and out with 25 milliwatts. It may not be as clear as the wireless, doing it the same around the same building, but it's definitely a quicker image, quicker image. So when you turn, it's a lot quicker. There might be a slight bit of a gap, but it's only a slight bit of a gap and you can work with it. Or at least, that's me. I'm my mid 50s, so maybe I'm not, I'm not, you know, keen-sighted enough or something or I, I don't know what it is, but I do prefer the analog myself. I do like the look of these expensive FBV, you know, wireless ones that 10-12 kilometres. Very good. Very good. But just in this, we're going to be going to use this. So we've got our camera, we've got our transmitter, we've got our step-up boost converter and we have our main filter, the filter, the battery. We're in fact not going to use these batteries. We're going to use these nanotech batteries, which at the same capacity, I think that's, this is 750 milliamp hour. Yep, but this has got a 35-70C discharge and it will certainly let you use that. No real difference, I think there's a ground difference in the weight and there's no real physical difference inside, so it fits in here quite nicely. So that's what we're going to do. All right, let's get these open. There we go. Take our props off, there's just a few of those at the back there a little bit. We've got the props off. Now this does come with its own little screw driver, which is great, but it's quite small. My hands are quite gangly, long hands, fingers tight. What's going on there? And we should take note as well just quickly that these again, the props, the leading edge is facing inwards, so these will turn this way and on the bottom, they will go outwards. It's always good to know. Put them on the wrong way around it, we'll flip over. It just doesn't like to play at all. Okay, now I kept the screws in these while I was pulling them off just so I know where they are. I'll knock them out of there while it's on. I've got this then. So we should now just be able to pick up the edges here. Let's see if I don't have tape around them. Just pick up the edges and these will just pop out. You've got to remember the gears are in here, so you don't want to just snap it all up because you might just bend the pins and all sorts of cogs, but you might feel a little bit of burn with it. You just double check that you're down off. Any screws in the end, not that easy to get apart and so you might think to yourself, what can I say right then? I'm not putting the cable ties on. You could, possibly. But it might just rattle apart if you crash. Or I should say not him. You're going to crash because it's like most things when you start feeling you're becoming better at something. You want to push yourself a little bit more. And so there we have it. All right, not a lot to this thing. Not a lot to this at all. Now this is another fantastic thing about this. Look at what you got here. But again you could, if you wanted to, I've seen people do it when they just get some, just for fun, get some lollipop sticks. Maybe you can cut the hole in, fit the motor, put some hot glue, hot glue, hot glue. And don't exaggerate the same thing, but you could, you know, put a ballast facing downwards and change props around. You all sorts, but this is the space we've got there. Now what we need to consider here is we still want to be able to use our switch. So we don't want anything on here to change because we like that on the little 1S switch. The reason why you can do it on this is because there's a lot less current going around this than anything else. And I think actually me, I don't know, I've not looked in the leaf, it might be electronically. I control, but you do it, do you? All right, so we've got our cables for our LEDs. So we get to see where our LEDs are connected here. So if an LED goes out, you've got the cables connected up there. So this is, yeah, this is the flight controller. Part of things. Now, there's nothing fancy on here, meaning there's no, what's that there for? You know what it's there for? It's a power takeoff for the camera. There's a camera set underneath here as well, but I just found that it's just too weighty. And it only recorded on board. So you didn't get the, you know, the ability to even try FPV with it. But this is what we're going to do now. So we've got to fit this stuff in here. No, like I said, we're going to have our antenna coming through here because this will come off here. We need to get this sort of fixed into where I think it's going to go. So that's going to come through there. That's going to be happy to sit up there. So this is going to be basically hot glued into place up here. Yeah. It's only on 25 milliwatts, and that's ideal for just flying about the place here. It does break up a little bit as it goes downstairs. That's all right. That's all part of the fun of FPV. That little tiny bit where you've got to fill in the gap, you know, for a second deal of that. Oh, I found one of the screws in this. I'm probably going to have taken that out. So I'm going to set that snap. That's what we've got. Our tight fit. That seems to fit just nicely like that. And we've got our cables here. We need a little bit of flexible because when we put in together, we're going to need to move stuff around a little bit. So don't have it too tight. So you can't actually get the lid down because everything's stuck up there. Antenna for the 2.4 gig. So all I'm going to do that is I'm just going to lay that down. It's going to get out of the way there for now. So we want to pull this out. I don't think we need to. That's true. Let's have a look underneath it. Just while we're there, or else I'm just going to regret it. So a little pig. I'm trying to pre-lock and see which way down by. Someone's going to put that nice there. I mean, how do I, yeah, so I mean, I've always loved this. I've loved it because it's been so simple to repair. And it's, you know, the way I looked it as well, if I completely destroyed it, it's only 30 pounds, $30 just to replace the drain itself. I'll be going on the other side. So he's going to be the, it's just, I don't want to pull it all too far apart. Let's just see the guy in numbers on these chips. Two, I think it's got that wet my finger and a bit of gander at that. Just scrape off anything on top. I might have to get in me. Me better eyes. There's me better eye gum. I found it. What we got on there? Nothing. All right, I'll get some pictures of it and we'll, we'll put up what's, what's what there. Quite a few test points there. There's a little pad to put just that if you can. I don't know if you can see any of the writing on these, seeing if the camera can pick it up on these chips. It's probably just my eyes, though, just to see if you can see anything on that. What I'll do is, again, I'll stick some, this is a bit of been stuck down. The crystal's been stuck down on top of that IC there. I don't know what that is. Let's get this back together. Let's just, first of all, just notice where these go. So you've got three screws, three holes and one little, one little bit that pushes through on there. The cheaper Wi-Fi video link products are, you know, you're going to find it difficult for FPV unless you're out in a large field. And really, if you're going to do it in smaller areas, tighter spaces, you need a, you need an analog camera or, you know, a good, a good wireless FPV system like the DJI system. I've looked at that and I think it looks great and maybe one day I might go that way just for the minute, though. I'm just going to stick with what we've got because I'm a bit sore about how, how this has come about, you know, all these restrictions. I'm not going to go on about it because it gets me too annoyed and then I don't want to do anything with drones. There's the reason why I've had a problem with doing the INAF stuff because it just really, I keep getting really ticked off with it and I just want to go into a mad rant about it all. They've just used a situation and even in some ways, you know, coerced the situation or invented the situation with the gateway because still to this day, the police are saying, oh, well, we don't even know there was a drone there now. But all this stuff's come in because of it. So they just, you know, use the situation where we heard that before. Right. So that's just we need to actually we've got to get some wire on here because it's a little tiny. Where's that thing gone? Yes, there's a little tiny I can do this. Oh, yeah, that one there. That's where the that's where the power cable is supposed to go, the VCC. I'm going to put some silicon on it because one of the horrible things about this is the hard plastic wires. And I really don't like them. I prefer everything to be silicon. And that's, you know, that's what I do on the bill of stuff. I just use a silicon wire because it's a lot easier. It's softer. It, you know, we're going to take a heart of temperature, but like this isn't going to be experiencing that. But it's it's just easier to manipulate the band and do stuff with. Right. So we've got our we've got been being negative there. And we've got be positive. So that's battery positive and negative. So this is where we're going to be hooking up to. And if we can probably take that out and look again, but we don't need to, it's it's put on there, which is really, really nice. Got it. Safety first. Safety first. Let's just make sure the long thing can't suck in anything up. I don't have any speed control on it, so it just goes. So now we've got a. This might be. Shocked away. I'm just going to put up there. Why am I starting off? Because it's going to be easy for me. Even though I've got these very focal glasses, the eyes still can't see that one. So I'm just going to nip the end of that curve. We just want it to be the same sort of size as the blob. So even though that's not very big, look, I'm still going to take the end of it just slightly. About there, just get about half the size. We've got our being negative be positive. You can see that a lot clearer now. And as we're going to be going this way, we need a little bit of flex, because we want to go. Or we're going to go two wires, really, by rights off this. Sorry, we've got this, this to come off here, and then we're going to connect this output of here onto this. So let's get this ready as well, then. This is our in for the ground and the positive. So we're literally just going to wipe that off, like that. There's me, I'll beat that up a little bit. That's what we've got, you see, it's got a little bit of wire left in there. Get that out of the solder socket. A bit tricky this is. There he is me. So yeah, the things that come in handy. So as you can see, look, a little pair of these helping hands. It's good just to keep this in place. Hopefully we'll keep it in place. Mine off all over the place now, maybe. A bit of extra solder just to help that. Still see that piece sticking out on top there. I really want that to be gone. I really, really do. I don't like the idea of it sticking out like that. It's really small, so you know, you're going to... There we go. Right, let's go out a little bit of wire up, because it was there in the end. I don't know if this is even focusing. Probably won't be focusing on it though. Alright. So what we want then is we want the input of this to have the output of this. This is the output after the inductor. More equal length, I don't think. We're going to need this much longer. Let's just double check what we're doing. So we've got in and we've got ground. Right, so that's what we want is these two on here. So I'm just going to... One of the nice things about this is you can just use your thumbs. Your thumb nails, you know, you can just use your nails basically. But this one might need just a little tiny bit of... and you're already going through silicone, you're not going through plastic, which is just a nice little gentle. I just wanted to pull it off of it down the bottom here. It's got a bit of heat shrink round to protect it and to protect the board, of course, when it's in there. So let's just pop these on here. And that's how they're going to go. So we'll do that one first. Just tin the ends. Come here. Yeah, now your snips. Get yourself a couple of pairs of snips. One for the rugged jobs. One's for the ones where you just want nice... nice cutability. £6 or £7 on a pair of these types of snips. These are called... Yeah, let's see that. And they're great. They're so light. They're so light and they're clipping really, really nice. Nice and tight. You'll get right down to your board. And then you've got that nice angle. So you can get right flat on what you're doing, which is brilliant. All right, so now we need a couple of wires off this. Again, we're going to be coming from... we need a ground connection. And this is going to be going to where our battery connects onto the board. And then we're going to have our... we've got that coming in. So that's now nice and clean. And now we're going to be boosted up and cleaned again with these capacitors here. Just bit of fresh solder. Hopefully this will just go straight on. Damn it. Okay. Now we need to do a negative. And I think we're going to just check this is... clip them even a bit shorter. So I'm literally just dealing with a minute or two. Let's put a little bit of solder on the backside of this pad. What you don't want to do is you want to feed back the video transmitter's ground as close to the source as you can. And the same thing with... you don't have like the video transmitter coming off here and then daisy chain the camera. Because you're going to get noise in it. You want them to be able to have their own paths back without picking up noise from the others. Not sure if this actually came with a lens cover. Right, let's forget that and just put that in there. I just don't want to scuff up. Pretty sure it'll probably just be plastic in the front of that. So I don't really want to scuff it up. And now I've got to find some sort of way of holding it in place as well. Now this is where it can be handy when you've got these grip things to put some heat shrink around. So you're not clamping into things too much. Every now and then you might need to clamp something like this which as you can see, there's not that many places for clamping. You can try and go over this. Try and see what's going to be the easiest way for me to do this. Probably like this. Try and get in from this angle just because it's going to be easy for me to get the soldering iron in there. I was just thinking, I thought I'd do this last time because I've got to be able to put this together in a certain way. So when we consider how this is going to go, this is going to be quite tight. These connected, it's going to be quite tight for me getting this back on again. And we don't want too much wire. So we'll save these bits here. We're going to connect this directly to this. Then we need to look the camera up. If it's the wrong way up when we test it, then turn it over. Because these wires are going to attach together and then attach to this. So if anything, we better have a little bit longer here to twist them together. This has a little bit longer maybe. A little bit longer to twist them together. And then clip them off. And the same for this, because this isn't going to be any longer. You need to be any longer than really what's necessary. So here we can really do it. Twisting this up again. Now just... It's for the best. Here it is for the best. Besides it gives it a meter. Look as well. When you're done. You can have a little bit that slunger here, it's always, but again, we can still put a little bit more of a twist onto it because we'll have to connect that up. So that actually could be put a bit of heat shrink on that. Just put it over the top. It's easy just to pull it off if you need to get to the cable. Rather than like that, you're going to cut it all out. And just for the easy, it'll be fine. This is a little bit to think about because this is going to be in there and we've got to be able to connect these onto here. Where's me helping hands? Helping hands come here please. Ruffian. I'm going to put a bit of heat shrink over this because I don't really want that wrapping around the side and I don't think it hasn't got a conformal coating on it. Now I could do that but that means I'd have to leave it to dry for a good several hours. Or I could just chuck. A bit of heat shrink over there. Nice colour as well. What's the shakey? It doesn't really matter. I was going to see it functional. I'm not going to bother sticking a blow run or lighting a switch. I can't light anything. The only thing I've got as a lighter is this thing and you can't. One of them. It doesn't work so well on this but it's great for making your mates jump if they fall asleep after having a beer. There you go, that'll do. It doesn't need to be superlicious. I'm just going to bend that down a bit. Don't stick it on the tip part. Just stick it on the outer. Where it's warmer. Where cooler. That'll do. That's going to protect that just as we need it. It's not going to touch anything in here. That'll do. That'll do. So now all we've got to do now is just put a little tiny bit of heat shrink there and get this connected onto the battery part. I've actually sorted those wires out for there. So again, because it's silicon. It's a bit chunkier. Don't need too much of a connection but we're going to make sure we've got enough. Let's get a little bit of that heat shrink on here and the same thing I'm going to do it. I'm not going to bother putting the blow run. Just for these. I'm just going to use the side of my soldering iron. Soldering iron. Because it's already hot. That will just protect. As you want it to. And that is hot. I just touched myself. It's definitely hot. And again, you know, we can just twist that up a bit like this. Just to get it even a bit more twisted. And there's nothing wrong with it. A little bit. Let me just move this around. A bit better. That's what I'm doing is letting it hang down so I can twist it. Right, we're going to move that out of the way. Get ourselves a little bit of space here. And the camera can still flap about. All that's fine. That seems related. And now we're just going to connect up these to here. Now I'm looking at this stuff. I wish I could tell you what brand it is. It's a German brand. For the solder but it doesn't really spit which is nice. Yeah, which is nice. Let's just have a little look. Where's the camera part here? And the camera part's there on that. So I've got to be able to have that out there. Floppy about. And this has got to be able to sit in here. So basically this is all going to push down from here. See? So I've got to be able to have that. Because I've got to be able to get in and out of this. Let's see what we've got. In the right place? Oh, that's great. So we've got the positive and negative in the right place there. So let's just jump a bit of solder onto that. No, just warm it up. Heat it up to go. Nice big. Just keep that powered down nicely. See this thing? Come here. Beautiful. As long as I haven't done anything to the other side. We're good. And I think at this point that's all we need to solder. See a little bit of solder on the back of that. We'll have that off. And nothing's going to touch anything in there. There's going to be some extra noise there. But this isn't the sort of craft we need to worry about. Yeah, I mean it is. We do want to worry about noise, but I mean it's there's no GPS. There's nothing. We've twisted our wires up. That's going to mean something. And all I've got to do now is just did the actual transmitter still work? I'm asking myself. What I'm going to do is I'm just going to sit the camera in like that with it just up. All right. And try and fold that back. I do. So that sits somewhere. This is going to go back in its place because we're going to test it now. Now, I don't want to just lose because I don't know what this is tuned into. And so rather than me I'm looking over again the connections here, especially on the power to make sure that these are absolutely correct. Because it's just worth checking and checking again before you're doing anything like this and connected up. What I would like to be able to do is connect up with a very small amount of power given to this thing. Just to make sure. So I am going to show you something that you need to look out for because this is one of the I've seen quite a few videos of people converting this but I don't see a lot of them flying it or even powering it on and what happens is when if you haven't got the filter or you haven't got it wired up correctly just remember this. You've got your power coming into here. It comes into this filter it comes out the top of the filter goes on to the input of the 5 volt boost converter and then from the output to that you're feeding 5 volts to your antenna and this. You twisty twisty all your wires to keep as many as many noise signals out of the wiring by not allowing them to be antennas for themselves. And yes I put a little bit of hot glue just in there and this makes it easier. I just have to warm it up if I want to move it or adjust it. I've put a very slight let's just see if we can just zoom in like that. I don't know if you can see that I'm not going to pick it up just yet because of the way the wiring is. What about if I did that? There's a slight tilt down there. The reason why that's there is one because I can adjust it just by warming the hot glue up and two because I've got to have it slightly down on a very good camera. It's not going to have a wide dynamic range for sorting out the bright and the darks. Necessary. This is the sort of thing that you can have a little slight tilt because the sunlight is going to make everything go dark on the floor very quick. It's alright when you've got a bit of a whiz on but when you do this and it all goes dark no good. So that's why a lot of the cheaper ones do have a tilt down on the camera because you've got to be able to handle the sun. Now what I wanted to be able to show you was this. Let me just get away to do. There's the screen there. I'm just going to turn the power on over there so you can see it flashing. There we go. So this is what you've got to see. Let me get the image. It's not the greatest of the cameras. Let me just push it in. So what you don't want is you're going to get a bit on this and we're going to find out if it's because I can't actually give enough juice in my power supply because my power supply goes up to like 3.3 or 3.2 amps and I'm wondering and we'll find out when it's fully charged whether the battery on that provides that juice a bit better because watch when I first go in if I do it nice and gentle which is the way it is I saw you sorry about the noise a headphone warning I'll put a thing up beforehand unlike now and then afterwards but a headphone warning again here it comes so the reason why is when up and down up and down up and down there is because it's all quite flyable but it's just that very first part and that's the bit you've got to be able to test test that to make sure that it comes back to good you know I know that's the most annoying sound it sounds horrible like that it's much better when it's got the thing cased together so yeah that you have to test that because if it just goes horrible and stays horrible that's no good I think that's just I don't know I'm going to put on its battery when the battery is done and just do it then to see if it's like that then okay guys just to show you again the difference this is the power supply that I'm going to plug in to this right around is a good idea so that's the power supply there and the maximum I can give it is at 5 volts is 3.2 amps alright so I'm going to turn that on as you can see on the screen I'm good and I'm never flashing so I'm just going to put the power supply on there and watch as we power up I know I've shown you already but just watch again that's not very good is it that's not very good and you think well the power supply should be able to give me enough power for this little tiny thing way there let me show you let me just turn the power off there it'll take that out it'll take me forever alright and this is a nano tech yeah I've got to recycle this power so alright this is the nano tech sorry about the noise that FPV is rock solid now so yeah it's going to be okay to fly that around with sticks and props I'm going to see how we go from there as well