 Chapter 5 of A Voyage to the South Sea Rocky Islands discovered. See the island Maatea and arrive at Otehidi, ship crowded by the natives. 1788, September. Being clear of the land, we steered towards the east-southeast at being my intention to pass to the southward of New Zealand, as I expected in that route to meet with constant westerly winds, in which, however, I was disappointed, for they proved variable and frequently from the eastward blowing strong with thick, misty weather. The thermometer varied from 41 to 46 degrees. On the 14th at noon we were in 49 degrees, 24 minutes south latitude, and in 168 degrees, 3 minutes east longitude, which is on the same meridian with the south end of New Zealand. We altered our course, steering to the northward of east, and frequently saw a rock weed which I supposed to have drifted from New Zealand. The sea now became rougher from our being exposed to a long swell which came from the northeast. Friday 19 On the 19th at daylight we discovered a cluster of small rocky islands bearing east by north four leagues distant from us. We had seen no birds or anything to indicate the nearness of land except patches of rock weed for which the vicinity of New Zealand sufficiently accounted. The wind being at northeast prevented our near approach to these isles so that we were not less than three leagues distant in passing to the southward of them. The weather was too thick to see distinctly, their extent was only three and a half miles from east to west, and about half a league from north to south. Their number, including the smaller ones, was thirteen. I could not observe any verdeur on any of them. There were white spots like patches of snow, but, as Captain Cook and described in the lands of New Zealand near Cape South says, in many places there are patches like white marble. It is probable that what we saw might be of the same kind as what he had observed. The westernmost of these islands is the largest. They are of sufficient height to be seen at a distance of seven leagues from a ship's deck. In the easternmost more north I tried for soundings, being then ten miles distant from the nearest of them, and found bottoms at seventy-five fathoms, a fine white sand. And again at noon, having run six leagues more to the east-southeast, we had soundings at one hundred four fathoms, a fine brimstone-colored sand. The latitude of these islands is forty-seven degrees, forty-four minutes south. Their longitude one hundred seventy-nine degrees, seven minutes east, which is about one hundred forty-five leagues to the east of the traps near the south end of New Zealand. Variation of the compass here seventeen degrees east. While inside of the islands we saw some penguins and a white kind of gold with a forked tail. Captain Cook's trap in seventeen seventy-three was near this spot, but he did not see the islands. We saw seals and penguins hereabouts, but considered New Zealand to be the nearest land. I have named them after the ship, the bounty isles. Sunday twenty-one. This day we saw a seal, some rockweed, and a great many albatrosses. I tried for soundings, but found no bottom at two hundred thirty fathoms depth. Our latitude forty-seven degrees, thirty-two minutes south, longitude one hundred eighty-two degrees, thirty-six minutes east. October, Thursday, two. We're in forty degrees, twenty-seven minutes south, latitude, and two hundred fourteen degrees, four minutes east, longitude. At being calm, and a number of small blubbers about the ship, I took up some in a bucket, but I saw no difference between them and the common blubbers in the West Indies. We frequently, in the night time, observed the sea to be covered with luminous spots caused by prodigious quantities of small blubbers that, from the strings which extend from them, emit a light like the spark of a candle, while the body continues perfectly dark. Friday three. The third in the morning we saw a seal. One cook has remarked seeing sea weed when nearly in the same place. Our latitude forty degrees, twenty-one minutes south, longitude two hundred fifteen degrees east, variation of the compass seven degrees, forty-five minutes east. Being now well to the eastward of the society islands, I steered more to the northward. We continued to have the southern oceanic birds accompany us in a few whales. The people caught albatrosses and fattened them in the same manner which they had done when off Cape Horn. Some of these measured near eight feet between the tips of the wings when spread. Thursday nine. On Thursday the ninth we had the misfortune to lose one of our seamen, James Valentine, who died in the night of an asthmatic complaint. This poor man had been one of the most robust people on board until our arrival at Adventure Bay, where he first complained of some slight imposition for which he was bled and got better. Sometime afterwards the arm in which he had been bled became painful and inflamed. The inflammation increased with a hollow cough and extreme difficulty of breathing to his death. Monday thirteen. The thirteenth in the afternoon we saw two land birds like what are called sand larks. Our latitude at this time was twenty-eight degrees three minutes south and longitude two hundred twenty-three degrees twenty-six minutes east. Thursday fourteen. The next morning we saw a tropic bird and some fish. The winds were light and variable, with calms from this time to the nineteenth when a breeze sprang up from the northeast which gradually came round to the eastward and proved to be the trade wind. Our latitude on the nineteenth at noon was twenty-four degrees thirteen minutes south, longitude two hundred twenty-two degrees seventeen minutes east. Variation of the compass five degrees nineteen minutes east. Saturday twenty-five. On the twenty-fifth at half past seven in the morning we saw the island Mahatiyah called Osnaburg by Captain Wallace who first discovered it. At noon it bore southwest by west one-quarter west six miles distance. Our latitude seventeen degrees fifty minutes south, longitude two hundred twelve degrees twenty-four minutes east. Variation five degrees east. As Captain Wallace and Captain Cook had both passed near the south side, I ran along the north side which is remarkably steep. The island is high and round and not more than three miles in its greatest extent. The south side, where the declivity from the hill is more gradual, is the chief place of residence of the natives, but the north side, from the very summit down to the sea, is so steep that it can afford no support to the inhabitants. We steered pretty close to the northward of the east end where we saw but few habitations, a very neat house on a small eminence delightfully situated in a grove of coconut trees, particularly attracted our notice. About twenty of the natives followed us along shore, waving and showing large pieces of cloth, but the surf on the shore was too high to think of having any communication with them. I observed a great number of coconut trees but did not see one plantain tree. There were other trees but of what kind we could not distinguish. Near the east end are two remarkable rocks and a reef runs off to the eastward about half a league. The latitude of Maatia is 17 degrees 53 minutes south, and by our timekeeper its longitude is 1 degree 24 minutes east from Point Venus. Variation of the compass 5 degrees 36 minutes east. We continued our course to the westward, and at six in the evening saw Otahidi bearing west three-quarters south, the island Maatia, then inside bearing east half south, eight leagues distant. As there were great probability that we should remain a considerable time at Otahidi, it could not be expected that the intercourse of my people with the natives should be of a very reserved nature. I therefore ordered that every person should be examined by the surgeon and had the satisfaction to learn from his report that they were all perfectly free from any venereal complaint. Sunday, 26. On the 26th at four o'clock in the morning, having run 25 leagues from Maatia, we brought two till daylight when we saw Point Venus bearing south-west by west, distant about four leagues. As we drew near, a great number of canoes came off to us. Their first inquiries were if we were Tios, which signifies friends, and whether we had come from Preteni, their pronunciation of Britain, or from Lima. They were no sooner satisfied in this than that then they crowded on board in vast numbers, notwithstanding our endeavors to prevent it, as we were working the ship in, and in less than ten minutes the deck was so full that I could scarce find my own people. At nine in the forenoon, we were obliged to anchor in the outer part of Mataavi Bay in thirteen fathoms, being prevented by light variable winds from placing the ship in a proper berth. In this station, the west part of One Tree Hill bore south by east, half-east, one mile distant. This passage of fifty-two days from Van Diamond's land may be rated as moderate sailing. We passed New Zealand with the spring equinox and the winds, though strong, were at no time violent. To the southward of forty degrees zero minutes south they were variable. Between the latitudes of forty degrees and thirty-three degrees south, the winds kept in the northwest quarter. Afterwards, till we got into the trade, the winds were variable, mostly from the eastward, but light and inclinable to calms. The ship was three degrees twenty-two minutes in longitude to the eastward of the Dead Reckoning, which the timekeeper almost invariably proved to be owing to a current giving us more easting than the log. Our track was as distant from any course of former ships as I could conveniently make it, and though we made no new discoveries except the small cluster of islands near New Zealand. Yet in the other parts of the track, as been noticed, we met with signs of being in the neighborhood of land. It may not be unworthy of remark that the whole distance which the ship had run by the log, in direct and contrary courses, from leaving England to our anchoring at Ota Hedi, was twenty-seven thousand and eighty-six miles, which, on an average, is at a rate of one hundred and eight miles each twenty-four hours. End of chapter five. Chapter six of A Voyage to the South Sea. The Slibervox recording is in the public domain. A Voyage to the South Sea by William Boye. Chapter six. Account of an English ship lately sailed from Ota Hedi. Death of Omae. Captain Cook's picture sent on board. Oto O visits the ship. His visit returned. Natives well-disposed towards us. Account of the cattle left by Captain Cook. Breadfruit plants promised. Visit to the Eirei-e-Rahi-e. Presence made to the Airei Oyes. Seventeen eighty-eight. October. Sunday. Twenty-six. The ship being anchored, a number of visitors continued to increase, but as yet we saw no person that we could recollect to have been of much consequence. Seven failure chiefs made me presence of a few hogs, and I made them presence in return. We were supplied with coconuts and great abundance, but breadfruit was scarce. Many inquiries were made after Captain Cook, Sir Joseph Banks, and many of their former friends. They said a ship had been here from which they had learned that Captain Cook was dead. But the circumstances of his death they did not appear to be acquainted with, and I had given particular directions to my officers and ship company that they should not be mentioned. The ship spoke of, they informed me, stayed at Otehidi one month and had been gone four months by some of their accounts, according to others only three months. The captain they called Tona. I understood likewise from them that Lieutenant Watts was in the ship, who, having been here in the resolution with Captain Cook, was well known to them. One of my first inquiries, as will naturally be imagined, was after our friend Omae, and it was a sensible mortification and disappointment to me to hear that not only Omae, but both the New Zealand boys who had been left with him were dead. Everyone agreed in their information that they died a natural death. Otoho, who was the chief of Mata Avi when Captain Cook was here the last time, was absent at another part of the island. They told me messengers were sent to inform him of our arrival, and that he was expected to return soon. There appeared among the natives in general great goodwill towards us, and they seemed to be much rejoiced at our arrival. This whole day we experienced no instance of dishonesty. We were so much crowded that I could not undertake to remove to a more proper station. Without danger of disobliging our visitors by desiring them to leave the ship, this business was therefore deferred till the next morning. Monday, 27. Early in the morning, before the natives began to flock off to us, we wait anchor to work farther into the bay, and moored at about a quarter of a mile distance from the shore. Point Venus bearing north, sixteen degrees east, the west part of One Tree Hill, south-west by south, and the point of the reef north thirty-seven degrees west, the ship lying in seven fathoms' water. Several chiefs now came on board, and expressed great pleasure at seeing me. Among these were Oto, the father of Oto-O, and Orei-e-Paya, his brother, also another chief of Mata Avi called Po-A-A-No, and to these men I made presents. Two messengers likewise arrived from Oto-O to acquaint me of his being on the way to the ship, each of whom brought me as a present from Oto-O, a small pig, and a young plantain tree as a token of friendship. The ship was now plentifully supplied with provisions, every person having as much as he could consume. As soon as the ship was secured, I went on shore with the chief Po-A-A-No, and accompanied by a multitude of the natives. He conducted me to the place where we had fixed our tents in seventeen-seventy-seven, and desired that I would now appropriate the spot to the same years. We then went across the beach, and threw a walk delightfully shaded with breadfruit trees to his own house. Here we found two women at work staining a piece of cloth red. These I found were his wife and her sister. They desired me to sit down on the mat, which was spread for the purpose, and with great kindness offered me refreshments. I received the congratulation to several strangers who came to us and behaved with great decorum and attention. The people, however, thronged about the house in such numbers that I was much incommodated by the heat, which being observed they immediately drew back. During the crowd I saw a man who had lost his arm just above the elbow. The stump was well covered, and the cure seemed as perfect as could be expected from the greatest professional skill. I made inquiries about the cattle that had been left here by Captain Cook, but the accounts I received were very unfavorable, and so various that for the present I shall forebear speaking to them. After staying about an hour, I got up to take leave when the women in a very obliging manner came to me with a mat and a piece of their finest cloth, which they put on me after the Ohti Hedi fashion. When I was thus dressed, they each of them took one of my hands and accompanied me to the waterside, and at parting promised that they would soon return my visit. In this walk I had the satisfaction to see that the island had received some benefit from our previous visits. Two Shadaks were brought to me, a fruit which they had not until we introduced it, and among the articles which they brought off to the ship and offered for sale were capsicums, pumpkins, and two young goats. On my return to the ship I found that a small disturbance had been occasioned by one of the natives' making and attempt to steal a tin pot, which, on being known to over A.A. Paya, he flew into a violent rage, and it was with some difficulty that the thief escaped with his life. He drove all his countrymen out of the ship, and when he saw me he desired, if at any time I found the thief, that I would order him to be tied up and punished with his severe flogging. This forenoon a man came on board with Captain Cook's picture which had been drawn by Mr. Weber in 1777 and left with O.To.O. It was brought to me to be repaired. The frame was broken, but the picture in no way damaged except a little in the background. They called it To-O-Te, which has always been their manner of pronouncing Captain Cook's name, A.R.A. No-O-Te-Hee-Dee, chief of O.Te-Hee-Dee. They said To-O-O-Te had desired O.To.O. whenever any English ship came to show the picture, and it would be acknowledged as a token of friendship. The youngest brother of O.To.O., named Waid-Do-O-A, visited me this afternoon. He appeared stupefied with drinking Ava. At sunset all our male visitors left the ship. Tuesday, 28. The next morning early I received a message from O.To.O. to inform me of his arrival and requesting that I would send a boat for him, which I immediately did with an officer, Mr. Christian, to conduct him on board. He came with numerous attendants and expressed much satisfaction at our meeting. After introducing me to his wife, we joined Noses, the customary manner of saluting, and to perpetuate our friendship he desired that we should exchange names. I was surprised to find that instead of O.To.O., the name by which he formerly went, he was now called Tina. The name of O.To.O., with the title of A-A-R-A-A-R-A-H-I-A-I. I was informed had devolved to his eldest son, who was yet a minor, as is the custom of the country. The name of Tina's wife was Aidae. With her was a woman dressed with a large quantity of cloth in the form of a hoop, which was taken off and presented to me with a large hug and some breadfruit. I then took my visitors into the cabin, and after a short time produced my presence in return. The present I made to Tina, by which name I shall hereafter call him, consisted of hatches, small ads, files, gemlets, saws, looking glasses, red feathers, and two shirts. To Aidae, I gave earrings, necklaces, and beads. But she expressed a desire also for iron, and therefore I made the same assortment for her as I had for the husband. Much conversation took place among them on the value of the different articles, and they appeared extremely satisfied, so that they determined to spend the day with me and requested I would show them all over the ship, and particularly the cabin where I slept. This, though I was not fond of doing, I indulged them in, and the consequent was, as I had apprehended, that they took fancy to so many things that they had got from me nearly as much more as I had before given them. Afterwards Tina desired me to fire some of the great guns. This I likewise complied with, and as the shot fell into the sea at a great distance, all the natives expressed their surprise by loud shouts and acclamations. I had a large company at dinner, for besides Tina and his wife there was Otoa, the father of Tina, Oreae Paya, and Waidoa, two of his brothers, Poe Aeno, and several other chiefs. Tina is a very large man, much above the common stature, being not less than six feet, four inches in height, and proportionably stout, his age about 35. His wife, Aidea, I judged to be about 24 years of age. She is likewise much above the common size of the women at Otea, and had a very animated and intelligent countenance. Waidoa, the younger brother of Tina, was highly spoken of as a warrior, but had the character of being the greatest drunkard in the country, and indeed to judge from the withered appearance of his skin, he must have used the pernicious drink called Ava to great excess. Tina was fed by one of his attendants, who sat by him for that purpose, this being a particular custom among some of the superior chiefs, and I must do him the justice to say that he kept his attendant constantly employed. There was indeed little reason to complain of flaunt of appetite in any of my guests. As the women are not allowed to eat in the presence of the men, Aidea, dined with some of her companions about an hour afterwards in private, except that her husband Tina favored them with his company, and seemed to have entirely forgotten that he had already dined. Provisions were brought off to the ship in the greatest plenty, and to prevent as much as possible anything which might occasion disputes, I desired Mr. Peckover, the gunner, to undertake the management of our traffic with the natives. Some of the hogs brought today weighed two hundred pounds, and we purchased several for salting. Goats were likewise bought off for sale, and I bought a she-goat and a kid for less than would have purchased a small hog. Our friends here expressed much disappointment that there was no portrait painter on board, Tina in particular who wished to have had pictures of his father and family. An intimacy between the natives and our people was already so general that there was scarce a man in the ship who had not his tio or friend. Tina continued with me the whole afternoon, in the course of which he ate four times of roast pork besides his dinner. When he left the ship he requested that I would keep for him all the presents I had given to him as he had not at Mata Ava a place sufficiently safe to secure them from being stolen. I therefore showed him a locker in my cabin for his use, and gave him a key to it. This is perhaps not so much a proof of his want of power as to the estimation in which they hold European commodities and which makes more than the common means of security requisite to prevent theft. I had sent Nelson and his assistant to look for plants, and it was no small pleasure for me to find by their report that according to the appearance the object of my mission would probably be accomplished with ease. I had given directions to everyone on board not to make known to the islanders the purpose of our coming lest it might enhance the value of the breadfruit plants or occasion other difficulties. Perhaps so much caution was not necessary, but at all events I wished to preserve to myself the time and manner of communication. Nelson met with two fine shattic trees which he had planted in 1777. They were full of fruit, but not ripe. Wednesday 29 In the morning I returned Tina's visit for I found he expected it. He was in a small shed about a quarter of a mile to the east word of Mataavi point with his wife and three children. Not their own, but who they said were relations. In my walk I had picked up enumerous attendants for everyone I meant followed me, so that I had collected such a crowd that the heat was scarcely bearable. Everyone endeavouring to get a look to satisfy their curiosity. They, however, carefully avoided pressing against me and welcomed me with cheerful contenances and great good nature. I made Tina understand that my visit was particularly to him and gave him a second present equal to the first which she received with great pleasure, and to the people of consequence there were about him I also presented some article or other. There were great numbers of children and, as I took notice of the little ones that were in arms and gave them beads, both small and great, but with much drawlory and good humor endeavored to benefit by the occasion. Boys of eight or ten years old were caught up in arms and brought to me which created much laughter so that in a short time I got rid of all I had brought on shore. In my return I called on Poe Aeno and an elderly chief a relation of his called Moana, the principal man of this district and with whom I judged it to be in my interest to be on good terms. I gave them several valuable articles and, as the situation here was eligible for a garden, I planted melon, cucumbers, and solid seeds. I told them many other things should be sown for their use and they appeared much pleased as they understood I intended to plant such things as would grow to be trees and produce fruit. I saw large batches of tobacco growing without culture and many pump combines. The breadfruit trees and coconut trees at this time were full of fruit. I went on board to dinner and Moana accompanied me. In the afternoon I returned to Poe Aeno's with some additional seeds to improve the little garden I had begun to make in the forenoon. While I was giving directions I received a message from Tina inviting me to come to him at his brother O'Rea Apaiya's house which was near the beach. At this time I found a great number of people collected who, on my appearance, immediately made way for me to sit down by Tina. The crowd being ordered to draw back a piece of cloth about two yards wide and 41 yards in the length was spread on the ground and another piece of cloth was brought by O'Rea Apaiya which he put over my shoulders and round my waist in the manner the chiefs are clothed. Two large hogs weighing each above 200 pounds and a quantity of baked breadfruit and coconuts were then laid before me as a present and I was desired to walk from one end of the cloth spread on the ground to the other in the course of which Tayo and Ihoa were repeated with the loud acclamations. Footnote. Taya and Ihoa are words of the same signification that is friend and footnote. This ceremony being ended, Tina desired I would send the things on board which completely loaded the boat. We therefore waited till she came back and then I took them on board with me for I knew they expected some return. The present which I made on this occasion was equal to any that I had made before, but I discovered that Tina was not the sole proprietor of which he had given to me for the present I gave him was divided among those who, I guessed, had contributed to support his dignity. Among whom were Mo'atna, Po'Aena, and O'Rea Apaiya. Tina, however, kept the greatest part of what I had given and everyone seemed satisfied with the proportion he allotted them. The Otehidi breed of hog seems to be supplanted by the European. Originally they were of the China sort, short and very thick-necked, but the superior size of the European have made them encourage our breed. Thursday, 30. At break of day Tina and his wife came again to the ship and as their attendance were numerous I provided a breakfast for them of broiled and roasted pork, which they preferred to tea. Our arrival being known all over the island we had this day a great number of strangers on board who came from the most remote parts and in the forenoon some hooks and thimbles were cut out from the blocks. This induced me to order all the natives out of the ship except the chiefs and their attendants, and executing these orders a daring fellow attacked the Sentinel but escaped among the crowd. Everyone knew the consequences of offending the Sentinel and were exceedingly alarmed at the appearance of anger I thought necessary to assume. Among those who visited us today were two chiefs of great consequence. Mare Mare and his son Po'oha'i Ta'e'a Ote'a'a'a's of the districts of Ate'a'a and Ata'o'o'o'o. Ote'a was fed at dinner in the same manner as Tina. It was evident that the attention which I showed to these chiefs seemed to carry uneasiness to Tina. At sunset my visitors took leave and were carried on shore by one of the ship's boats which has always been regarded as a mark of a distinction and on that account preferred by them to go in in their own canoes. At their request a race was rode between our five-ord cutter and one of their double canoes with four paddles. Great exertions were used on both sides but the cutter first reached the shore. In their return to the ship O'ra'e'a'a'a'a stopped them till a large piece of cloth that he had sent for was brought, which he tied to the boat hook and desired should be carried off as a trophy of their victory. Friday 31 The next morning at sunrise Moana came on board with a message from Tina to acquaint me that he was Matau, afraid to see me, till he had recovered some things that had been stolen from the ship and which he had sent after. I knew there was something wrong as no canoes came off to us and on looking about we found the buoy of the best bower anchor had been taken away. I imagined for the sake of some iron hoops that were on it that this might not create any coolness I sent a boat to Tina to invite him and his friends to come on board, which they immediately did and were no longer under any apprehensions. I had made an appointment with Orei Apaya for him to go with me to Opare this morning, but the accident just mentioned caused him to break his engagement. He having gone, I was informed, in search of what had been stolen. Opare is the district next to the westward of Matavia. One of my reasons for going to Opare was to see if Nelson would be able to procure plants there, but I gave the credit of my visit to young Oto'o, the son of Tina, who was Ere'e Rahie, and lived with the rest of Tina's children at Opare. I prepared a magnificent present for this youth who was represented to me as the person of greatest consequence, or rather the highest rank, in the island. At noon I left the ship accompanied by Tina, his wife Idia, and Poe Aeno. Moana was to have been to the party, but he insisted on remaining in the ship to prevent his countrymen from attempting to steal anything. After half an hour sailing, we arrived at Opare. During this time Tina gave me a more circumstantial account of the cattle and sheep that had been left with him. He related that, after five years from the time of Captain Cook's departure, counting 63 moons, the people of the island, A. E. Veo, joined with those of Ata'a Ro'o'o, a district of Otehidi, and made a descent on Opare, that after some resistance by which many men were killed, Tina and his people fled to the mountains, leaving all their property to the mercy of the victorious party who destroyed almost everything, which they found not convenient to take away with them. Some of the cattle were killed and eaten, but the greater part were taken to A. A. Meo. The cows, he said, had produced eight calves and the used ten young ones. The ducks, among which they classed the geese, had greatly increased, but the turkeys and peacocks, whatever was the cause, had not bred. It seemed to give Tina great pleasure to observe how much I was concerned for the destruction of so many useful animals, but the cause of a satisfaction, I found, did not proceed for many expectation that I should replace them, but from the belief that I would take vengeance on the people who had deprived him of them. For with respect to the loss of the cattle, he appeared so unconcerned and indifferent that I was very angry with him. There is, however, sufficient excuse for his resentment against the people of A. A. Meo for the large extensive houses which we had seen in this part of O. T. Hede in the year 1777 were all destroyed, and at present they had no other habitations than light sheds which might be taken by the four corners and removed by four men, and of the many large canoes which they then had not more than three remained. Tina, understanding from my conversation that I intended visiting some of the other islands in this neighborhood, very earnestly desired I would not think of leaving Mata Avi. Here, said he, you shall be supplied plentifully with everything you want. All here are your friends and friends of King George. If you go to the other islands you will have everything stolen from you. I replied that, on account of their good will and a desire to serve him in his country, King George had sent out these valuable presents to him, and will you not, Tina, send something to King George in return? Yes, he said, I will send him anything I have, and then begin to enumerate the different articles in his power, among which he mentioned the breadfruit. This was the exact point to which I wished to bring the conversation, and seizing an opportunity which had every appearance of being undesigned and accidental. I told him the breadfruit trees were what King George would like, upon which he promised me a great many should be put on board, and seemed much delighted to find it so easily in his power to send anything that would be well received by King George. On landing an o' pottery, and immense crowd of natives as usual immediately thronged about us. I inquired for O'Rei Paiap, whom I expected to have met me here, but he was not yet returned from his search after the thieves. We therefore went under a shed of his to wait for him, and in about a quarter of an hour he joined us, bringing with him an iron scraper and one of the hoops of the buoy. I thanked him for the trouble which he had taken, and assured him that I was perfectly satisfied, for he still seemed apprehensive of my displeasure. We took leave for a short time of O'Rei Paiap, and I proceeded with Tina to make my visit to the young Oto'o, the Ere'e Rahie. When we had walked about five minutes, Tina stopped and informed me that no person could be permitted to see his son who was covered above the shoulders. He then took off his upper garments and requested I would do the same. I replied that I had no objection to go as I would to my own king, who was the greatest in all the world, and, pulling off my hat, he threw a piece of cloth round my shoulders, and we went on. About a quarter of a mile farther towards the hills, through a delightful shade of breadfruit trees, we stopped at the side of a small serpentine river. Here I was in view of a house on the other side at about fifty yards distance. From this house the young king was brought out on a man's shoulder, clothed in a piece of fine white cloth, and I was desired by Tina to salute him by the name of Oto'o Ere'e Rahie. The present which I had prepared was divided into three parts, and two other children made their appearance in the same manner. The first present I gave to a messenger who attended for that purpose, and I was instructed by Tina to say it was for the Ere'e Rahie, that I was his friend, that I hated thieves, and that I came from Britannia. The second present was sent in the same manner, with a similar message to one of the other children, and likewise the third. As I could not see the Ere'e Rahie distinctly, I desired to be permitted to go over the river to him, but this it seems could not be complied with. Therefore, after seeing the presence delivered, I returned with Tina towards Ere'e Pa'e's house. I was informed that Tina had four children by his wife, Aide'e. Oto'o, or To'o, the Ere'e Rahie, appeared to be about six years old. The second is a girl named Te Re Na O Ro A, the third a boy, Te Re A Te Ta Pa Pa, you got it now. And the fourth, an infant girl who I did not see, named Ta Ha Ma Do O O A. When we came to the place where we had first stopped, Tina took the cloth from my shoulders and desired me to put my hat on. I expressed the desire to see more of the place, and he took me back by a different way. On passing the trunk of a tree, rudely carved, I was desired again to pull my hat off and all uncovered the shoulders. This I discovered to be nothing more than the boundary of the king's land, on which whoever set their feet uncovered themselves out of respect. We stopped at a house belonging to Tina, where I was treated with a concert of one drum and three flutes with singing by four men. I made some presents to the performers, and we removed O'Re'e Pa'e's house, where after paying my compliments to him, which I found was expected, Tina made me a present of a large hog and some coconuts. He then introduced an uncle of him called Mo Roa, a very old man, much tattooed and almost blind. To this chief, I made a present and soon after I embarked with Tina O'Re'e Pa'e, their wives, and Poe Aeno. A vast number of people were collected on the beach to see us depart, and as soon as the boat had put off, Tina desired me to fire my pocket pistol, the Poe O'Poe Ate Ate, as he called it. The report seemed to electrify the whole crowd, but finding no harm done, they gave great shouts of approbation. Nelson, who accompanied me in this expedition, had but little opportunity to search after plants, the natives having crowded so much about him. He saw enough, however, to assure him that they were to be procured here as plentiful as at Mata Awe. In our passage to the ship, which we rode in one hour, nothing but Britini was inquired after, and a number of ships and guns. When I told them we had ships of one hundred guns, they could not believe it, till I drew one on paper. They then asked me if it was not as big as Ta Roa, which is a high projecting headland halfway between Mata Awe and O'Poe Ate, called by us One Tree Hill. Tina much wasted that one of these large ships could be sent to O'Tahiti, and that myself would come in her and bring him a number of things that he wanted, among which he particularly desired beds and high-backed elbow-chairs might not be forgotten. I request perfectly according with the indolent character of Tina. November. Saturday. One. As we had occasion to fix a tent on Point Venus this morning, we moved the ship nearer to it, and moored again in six fathoms, the point bearing north northeast. Tina and several other chiefs dine on board with me. After dinner I went on shore with Tina and made a visit to his father Otoa. I likewise went to the garden which I had made near Poe Aeno's house and found everything had been taken care of. After this I was invited to an entertainment called Heiva, which Tina had ordered in which consisted of singing and dancing by three men and a young girl. When this performance was finished I returned to the ship. Sunday. Two. A daylight I sent Mr. Christian with the party to erect our tent, and soon after followed myself with Tina Moana and Poe Aeno. With their consent I fixed a boundary within which the natives were not to enter without leave, and the chiefs cautioned them against it. The principal use of the tents on shore was for a lodgement for the plants, and I had now, instead of appearing to receive a favor, brought the chiefs to believe that I was doing them a kindness in carrying the plants, as a present from them to them. A-R-A-E-R-A-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E-E. The party at the tent consisted of nine persons, including Nelson and his assistant. Tina dined with me on board and was today my only visitor. Nevertheless, the ceremony of being fed he so scrupulously observed that even after all the attendants were sent away, and we were left by ourselves, I was obliged to lift the wine to his mouth. The wives of the A-R-A-Es are sometimes subject to this restriction after the birth of a child, but are released after a certain time on performing a ceremony called O-A-M-O. After dinner, Tina invited me to accompany him with the present of provisions to a party of the A-R-A-Es, a society described in the accounts of the farmer voyages. In this ceremony he made me the principal person. Our way to the place where the offering was to be made was by the side of a river along the banks of which I had always walked before this time, but on the present occasion a canoe was provided for me and dragged by eight men. On arriving at the landing place I saw a large quantity of breadfruit with some hogs ready dressed and a quantity of cloth. At about forty yards distance sat a man who, I was informed, was a principal A-R-A-O. A lane being made by the crowd he was addressed by one of Tina's people, standing on the canoe, in a speech consisting of short sentences which lasted about a quarter of an hour. During this a piece of cloth was produced, one then of which I was desired to hold, and five men, one with a succulent pig and the others having each a basket of breadfruit, prepared to follow me. In this order we advanced to the A-R-A-O and laid the hole down before him. I then spoke several sentences dictated to me by Tina, the meaning of which I did not understand and my pronunciation being very exact caused a great deal of mirth. This speech being finished I was shown another A-R-A-O who had come from U-L-I-A-T-A-A, and to him likewise I was required to deliver an oration. Tina understanding from me that I had children in my own country, he desired me to make one more offering on their account. There still remained three baskets of breadfruit, a small pig, and another piece of cloth, with these assisted as before I made the offering in favor of my children to the man whom I had first addressed. He made no reply to all my fine speeches but sat with great gravity and received everything as a matter of right and not of courtesy. All that I could make out of this strange ceremony was that the A-R-A-Os are highly respected and that the society is chiefly composed of men distinguished by their valour or some other merit, and that great trust and confidence is reposed in them. But I could not comprehend what this had to do with my children or why it should be imagined that an offering made on their account to a society of men who destroyed all their children should be propitious. I learned from Tina in talking about his children that his first born child was killed as soon as it came into the world. He then being an A-R-A-O, but before his second child was born he quitted the society. The A-R-A-Os are allowed great latitude in their armours except in times of danger. Then, as they were almost all fighting men, ta-ta-to-ta, they are restricted that they might not weaken or innervate themselves. These ceremonies being ended, I returned to the ship. Such of the natives as I conversed with about the institution of so extraordinary a society as the A-R-A-O asserted that it was necessary to prevent an overpopulation. Wo-ro, wo-ro, no-te, may-dai, de, wo-ro, wo-ro, te, ta-ta. We have too many children and too many men was their constant excuse. Yet it does not appear that they are apprehensive of too great an increase of the lower class of people, none of them being ever admitted into the A-R-A-O society. The most remarkable instance related to me of the barbarity of this institution was of Te-pa-au, the A-R-A-O of the district of Te-ta-ha, and his wife Te-te-ho-ve-de-ae-ah, who assisted A-to and considered a person to the first consequence. I was told that they have had eight children, every one of which was destroyed as soon as born. That any human being were ever so devoid of natural affection as not to wish to preserve a live one of so many children is not credible. It is more reasonable to conclude that the death of these infants was not an active choice in the parents, but they were sacrificed in compliance with some barbarous superstition with which we were unacquainted. What strengthens this conjecture is that they have adopted an effew as their heir, of whom they are excessively fond. In countries so limited as the islands in the South Seas, the natives of which, before they were discovered by European navigators, probably had not an idea of the existence of other lands. It is not unnatural that an increase in population should occasion apprehensions of universal distress. Orders of celibacy, which have proved so prejudicial in other countries, might perhaps in this have been beneficial, so far at least as to have answered their purpose by means not criminal. The number of inhabitants of Otehidi have been estimated at above 100,000. The island, however, is not cultivated to the greatest advantage, yet were they continually to improve in husbandry their improvement could not for a length of time keep pace with an unlimited population. An idea here presents itself, which, however fanciful it may appear at first sight, seems to merit some attention. While we see among these islands so great a waste of the human species that numbers are born only to die, and at the same time a large continent so near to them as New Holland, in which there is so great a waste of land uncoldivated and almost destitute of inhabitants, it naturally occurs how greatly the two countries might be made to benefit each other, and gives occasion to regret that the islanders are not instructed in the means of immigrating to New Holland, which seems as if designed by nature to serve as an asylum for the super-flex of inhabitants in the islands. Such a plan of immigration, if rendered practicable to them, might not only be the means of abolishing the horrid custom of destroying children as it would remove the plea of necessity, but might lead to other important purposes. A great continent would be converted from a desert to a populous country, a number of our fellow creatures would be saved, the inhabitants of the islands would become more civilized, and it is not improbable, but that our colonies in New Holland would derive so much benefit as to more than repay any trouble of expense that might be incurred in endeavoring to promote so humane a plan. The latter, however, is a remote consideration for the intertropical parts of New Holland, are those most suited to the habits and manner of living of the islanders, and likewise the soil and climate are the best adapted to their modes of agriculture. Man placed by his Creator in the warm climates perhaps would never emigrate into the colder and less under the tyronous influence of necessity, and ages might elapse before the new inhabitants would spread to our settlers, though they are but barely within the limits of frost, that great cause of nine-tenths of the necessities of Europeans. Nevertheless, besides forwarding the purposes of humanity and general convenience by bringing a people without land to a land without people, the benefit of a mutual intercourse with a neighboring and friendly colony would in itself be no inconsiderable advantage. Among people so free from ostentation is O. Tahitians, and whose manners are so simple and natural, the strictness with which the punctilius of rank are observed is surprising. I know not if any action, however meridous, can elevate a man above the class in which he was born, unless he was to acquire sufficient power to confirm dignity on himself. If any woman of the inferior classes has a child by an A or A, it is not suffered to live. Perhaps the offspring of Tepehaha and Te-te-e-ho-de-e-ah were destined to satisfy some cruel adjustment of rank and precedency. End of Chapter 6 Chapter 7 of Avoids to the South Sea This library of Vox recording is in the public domain. Avoids to the South Sea by William Blye. Chapter 7 A Theft Committed Deception of the Painted Head Conversation with a Priest A Wrestling Match Reports of the natives concerning other islands Some account of Oma'i 1788 November Monday 3 The trade for provisions I directed to be carried on at the tent by Mr. Peck over the gunner. Moana, likewise resided there as a guard over his countrymen, but though it appeared to be the wish of all the chiefs that we should remain unmolested, it was not possible entirely to prevent them from pilfering. My table at dinner was generally crowded. Tina, O'Re'ae Pa, Po'ae No, and Moana were my regular guests and I was seldom without some chiefs from other districts. Almost every individual of any consequence has several names which makes it frequently perplexing when the same person is spoken of to know who is meant. Every chief has perhaps a dozen or more names in the course of 30 years so that the person who has been spoken of by one visitor will not perhaps be known to another unless other circumstances lead to a discovery. The father of Tina at this time called Otoe was known in 1769 by the name of Po'ae A'ae. I showed Tina the preparations I was making to take on board the breadfruit plants which pleased him exceedingly but he did not forget to remind me that when the next ship came out he hoped King George would send him large axes, files, saws, cloth of all kinds, hats, chairs, and bedsteads with arms, ammunition, and in short everything he could think of mentioning. This afternoon the Guddian of the rudder belonging to the large cutter was drawn out and stolen without being perceived by the man that was stationed to take care of her. Several petty thefts having been committed by the natives mostly owing to the negligence of our own people and as these kinds of accidents generally created alarm and had a tendency to interrupt the good terms on which we were with the chiefs I thought it would have a good effect to punish the boatkeeper in their presence many of them happening to be then on board and accordingly I ordered him a dozen lashes. Tina with several of the chiefs attended the punishment and interceded very earnestly to get it mitigated the women showed great sympathy and that degree of feeling which characterizes the amiable part of their sex. The natives brought off today two different kinds of roots that grow like yams. One they call Atae which is a sweet root common also to the friendly islands and may be eaten as a sweet meat. The other they call Opei a root like the taia or eddy in the West Indies. A fruit called Aya which is the Jumbo of Bativa was likewise brought off to us. They are as large as middle-sized apples very juicy and refreshing and may be eaten in large quantities. Also some Avae's which are the real otiti apple but they were not yet in season. These are a delicious high flavored fruit and before they are ripe answer the culinary purposes of our apples. Tuesday 4 a chief called Tua'a who came from the island Uli Ata'a was introduced to me today by Tina as one of his particular friends. I was told that he was a priest and a person of great knowledge. I desired Tina to take what he thought proper as a present for him and I must do Tina the justice to say he was more sparing than I should have been. I likewise received a visit today from O-A-D Date A a man who had been at sea with Captain Cook in 1773 and 1774 as related in the account of that voyage. He still retained some of the English words which he had learned in that expedition. Wednesday 5 The weather variable with lightning and frequent showers of rain. Wind east northeast This was the first day of our beginning to take up plants. We had much pleasure in collecting them for the natives offered their assistance and perfectly understood the method of taking them up and pruning them. The crowd of natives was not so great as hitherto it had been. The curiosity of strangers was satisfied and as the weather began to be unsettled and rainy they had almost all returned to their home so that only the people of Mata-Avi and O-Pare remained with us except a few chiefs from other islands. Our supplies however were abundant and when I considered as no small addition to our comforts we ceased to be incommodated when on shore by the natives following us and could take our walks almost unnoticed. In any house that we wished to enter we always experienced a kind reception and without officiousness. The Otehishans have the most perfect easiness of manners especially free from forwardness and formality. When they offer refreshments if they are not accepted they do not think of offering them the second time for they have not the least idea of that ceremonious kind of refusal which expects a second invitation. In like manner at taking leave we were never troubled with solicitations to prolong our visit but went without ceremony except making use of a farewell expression at parting. Another advantage seldom found in warm countries was in this part of Otehidi being free from mosquitoes though at particular times of the year the inhabitants are pestered with great numbers of flies. Moana continued our constant friend at the tent and with Tina and all his friends dined with me every day. The ship's barber had brought with him from London the painted head such as the hairdressers having their shops to show the different fashions of dressing hair and it being made with regular features and well colored I desired him to dress it which he did with much neatness and with a stick and a quantity of cloth he formed a body. It was then reported to the natives that we had an English woman on board and the quarter-deck was clear to the crowd that she might make her appearance. Rain handed up the ladder and carried to the after part of the deck there was a general shout of hoo-a-hey-ay-nee no-britain-y may-tai hoo-a-hey-ay-nee signifies woman and may-tai good. Many of them thought it was living and asked if it was my wife. One old woman ran with presents of cloth and breadfruit and laid them at her feet. At last they found out the cheat but continued all delighted with it except the old lady who felt herself mortified and took back her presents for which she was laughed at exceedingly. Tina and all the chiefs enjoyed the joke and after making many inquiries about the British women they strictly enjoyed me when I came again to bring a ship full of them. Some very fine sugar cane was brought to me. Each of the pieces was six inches round. I had before told Tina that our sugar was made of it and he was very desirous to discover the means for they were so fond of our love sugar that a present to any chief would have been incomplete without a piece of it. Another article in great estimation and likewise expected to make part of a present was scissors which they made use of to keep their beards in order. By this time Nelson had, with assistance from the ship, completed a large garden near the tents in which were sown seeds of different kinds that we had collected at the Cape of Good Hope. I likewise distributed fruit stones and almonds for planting among the chiefs who I hope will endeavor to make them succeed and as they are very fond of sweet-smelling flowers with which the women delight to ornament themselves. I gave them some rose seed. Thursday. 6. We had very variable weather, much rain, and some westerly winds so that a considerable swell ran into the bay and a number of spotted white and black porpoises made their appearance. I had the mortification to see that our garden-ground had been much trod over and what was worse the chiefs appeared but little concerned at it. To this kind of carelessness and indifference I attribute the miscarriage of many of the plants left here by Captain Cook. I had now in a flourishing state two orange plants, some vines, a fig tree, and two pineapple plants which I gave to Poe Anon whose residence is a place favorable for their growth. We got on successfully with our plants having a hundred potted at the tent and in a fair way of doing well. The cabin also was completed and ready to receive them on board. I have before remarked that my friend Tina was rather of a selfish disposition and this afternoon he showed a stronger instance of it than I was witness to at any time before or after. His brother O'Rea Paya sent on board to me a present of a large hog and a quantity of breadfruit. But these kinds of presents are much more expensive than purchasing at the market. Soon after O'Rea Paya himself came on board. Tina was with me at the time and whispered me to tell O'Rea Paya not to bring any more hogs or fruit and to take back those which he had sent. This advice as may be supposed did not produce the effect intended. O'Rea Paya appears to be a man of great spirit and is highly respected by his countrymen. Among other visitors today was one of the men who had been to Lima in 1776. Our plants had now increased to 252 as they were all kept on shore at the tent. I augmented the guard there. Though from the general conduct of the natives there did not appear to be the least occasion for so much caution. When I was at dinner Tina desired I would permit a man to come down into the cabin who he called as ta'owa or priest. For I was obliged to keep a sentinel at the hatchway to prevent being incommoted at my meals with too much company. A restriction which pleased the chiefs who always asked to leave for any particular person to be admitted of whom they wished me to take notice. The company of the priest brought on a religious conversation. He said their great God was called O'Row and that they had many others of less consequence. He asked me if I had a God. If he had a son and who was his wife. I told them he had a son but no wife. Who was his father and mother? Was the next question. I said he never had father or mother. At this they laughed exceedingly. You have a God then who never had a father or mother and has a child without a wife? Many other questions were asked which my little knowledge of the language did not enable me to answer. The weather was now fine again and a great number of people were come from other parts of the island. Tina informed me that there was to be a Haiva and a wrestling match on shore and that the performers waited for our attendance. We therefore sat off with several of our friends and about a quarter of a mile from the tents. We found a great concourse of people formed into a ring. As soon as we were seated a dancing Haiva began which was performed by two girls and four men. This lasted half an hour and consisted of wanton gestures and motions such as have been described in the account of former voyages. When the dance ended Tina ordered a long piece of cloth to be brought. His wife Idea and myself were desired to hold the first two corners and the remaining part being supported by many others. We carried it to the performers and gave it them. Several other chiefs made a like present or payment. The performers were strollers that traveled about the country as in Europe. After this the wrestling began and the place soon became a scene of riot and confusion. A party of oreos also began to exercise a privilege which it seems they are allowed of taking from the women such as their clothes as they thought worth it so that some of them were left a little better than naked. One young woman who was attacked opposed them with all her strength and held faster cloth though they almost dragged her along the ground. Observing that I took notice of her she held out her hand and begged my assistance and at my request she escaped being pillaged. Soon after a ring was again made but the wrestlers were so numerous within it that it was impossible to restore order. In the challenges they lay one hand upon their breast and on the bending of the arm at the elbow with the other hand they strike a very smart blow which as the hand is kept hollow creates a sound that may be heard at a considerable distance and this they do so frequently and with such force that the flesh becomes exceedingly bruised and the skin breaking bleeds considerably. At this time the sound from so many resembled that of a number of people in a wood falling trees. This is the general challenge but when any two combatants agree to a trial they present their hands forward joining them only at the extremities of the fingers. They begin by watching to take an advantage at length they close seizing each other by the hair and are most commonly parted before either receives a fall. Only a couple performed anything like the part of good wrestlers and as they were an equal match this conflict lasted longer than any of the others but they also were parted. Idea was the general umpire and she managed with so much address as to prevent any quarreling and there was no murmuring at her decisions. As her person was large she was very conspicuous in the circle. Tina took no part in the management. Upon the whole this performance gave me a better opinion of their strength than of their skill or dexterity. Tuesday 11 For some time past Tina had talked of going to the island of Tethuroa which flies eight or nine leagues north from Otehidi to fetch his mother but I found I had only half understood him. For this morning he inquired when we were to sail there in the ship. However he seemed to feel no great disappointment at my not complying with his wish. Tethuroa he informed me as the property of his family. He likewise spoke to me about an island called Ro'opo the situation of which he described to be eastward of Otehidi four or five days sail and that there were large animals upon it with eight legs. The truth of this account he very strenuously insisted upon and wished me to go thither with him. I was at a loss to know whether or not Tina himself gave credit to this whimsical and fabulous account. For though they have credulity sufficient to believe anything however improbable they are at the same time so much addicted to that species of wit which we call humbug that it is frequently difficult to discover whether they are in jest or earnest. Their ideas of geography are very simple. They believe the earth to be a fixed plane of great extent and that the sun moon and stars are all in motion around it. I have been frequently asked by them if I have not been as far as the sun and moon for they think we are such great travelers that scarce any undertaking is beyond our ability. Another island called Tapuhoi situated likewise to the eastward was described to me by Tina the inhabitants of which were said to be all warriors and that the people of Otehidi did not dare to go there. He told me that very lately a canoe from Tapuhoi was at the island Maetea that as soon as they landed they began to fight with the people of Maetea who killed them all except a young lad and a woman who have since been at Otehidi. I saw the boy but could get no information from him. It is most probable that this unfortunate visitor the canoe from Tapuhoi was not designed but occasioned by adverse winds which forced them so far from their own island and that the people of Maetea began the attack taking advantage of their superior numbers on account of some former quarrel. Thursday 13 I had a large company to dine with me today. Some of my constant visitors had observed that we always drink His Majesty's health as soon as the cloth was removed but they were by this time become so fond of wine that they would frequently remind me of the health in the middle of dinner by calling out King George E. A. Rihe no Britanny and would banter me if the glass was not filled to the brim. Nothing could exceed the mirth and jollity of these people when they met on board. I was assured by O. A. D. Day and several others that the vines planted at the island Hualheine by Captain Cook had succeeded in bore fruit and that some of the other plants both at He'a'u'ni and O. A. E. Te'a'pe'aha a district on the southeast part of Otehidi had been preserved and were in a thriving state. I was likewise informed that there was a bowl and kello live at Otehidi but on different parts of the island the former had a place called Atea the latter at the district of Te'a'aha all the rest were taken away or destroyed by the people of A. E. May'u as Te'a'aha was at no great distance I determined to go thither myself the first opportunity and make inquiries in hopes that the breed might still be preserved I had much discourse with my guests about O. Ma'i they confirmed to me that he died about 30 months after Captain Cook left the island Soon after Captain Cook's departure from He'u'aha'i'ni there were some disputes between the people of that island and those of O. A. A. Te'a'aha in which also the natives of Bola Bola took apart O. Ma'i who was become of consequence from the possessing three or four muskets and some ammunition was consulted on the occasion such was his opinion and assurances of success that a war was determined on and took place immediately victory soon followed through the means of those few arms and many of the O. A. Te'a'aha and Bola Bola men were killed in this contest their flint proved bad or probably the locks of the muskets had got out of order this they remedied by a lighted stick one man presenting the musket and another with the burnt stick setting fire to the priming without which contrivance their arms would have proved useless this expedition it seemed consumed all their ammunition peace was soon after established but I did not understand that O. Ma'i had increased his possessions or his rank nevertheless I have reason to conclude that he was in some degree a favor with his countrymen from the general good character which they give of him it appears that he always remembered England with kindness for his accounts to his countrymen have been such as to give them not only a great idea of our power and consequence but of our friendship and goodwill towards him Te'a'aha Ro'aha the eldest of the New Zealand boys that were left with him died a short time after O. Ma'i about Ko'aha, the youngest I had always doubtful accounts till I came to Hu'anheene where I learned that he likewise was dead End of chapter 7 Chapter 8 of Avoids to the South Sea this web revox recording is in the public domain Avoids to the South Sea by William Bligh Chapter 8 Expedition to Te'a'aba after a heifer Extraordinary domestic arrangements Tina's mother visits the ship a sheep brought from Ule A. Te'a Heavy storm Death of the surgeon Ta'ona and Te'a'aha Ro'aha harbors examined 1788 November After dinner I went on shore and while I was at the tents from having exposed myself too much in the sun I was taken ill and continued in much pain for near an hour This was soon known among the natives and I was exceedingly surprised to see Tina and all the principal people both men and women collecting round me and offering their assistance For this short illness I was made ample amends by the pleasure I received from the attention and appearance of affection in these kind people Friday 14 This morning I had numberless inquiries after my health The weather being fine I invited Tina, O'Re'e Paya, and Pu'e'eno to accompany me to Te'a'aha in order to inquire after the cow and soon after sunrise we set off in the launch Te'a'aha is nearly four leagues from Point Venus On our arrival Tina sent a man to give notice of our visit The chief of the district whose name was Te'a'ahao did not appear but sent a messenger to demand if I only came to see the cow or to take it away with me In answer to this I sent assurances that I only desired to see it and the chiefs who were with me spoke to the same effect I was then desired to proceed in the boat farther along shore to the westward In our away Tina made me stop among some fishing canoes to purchase fish for him which he ate raw with salt water for sauce When we arrived at the landing place a great number of people had collected and soon after Te'a'ahao arrived O'Re'e Paya and I went with him about a quarter of a mile where I was shown one of the most beautiful heifers I ever saw I asked if they had any more but they all said there was no other than a bull at E. Te'a'aha as before mentioned I could not refrain from expressing my displeasure at the destruction and the foolish separation of these fine animals I had shared with Captain Cook in the trouble of this business and had been equally anxious for the success The district of Te'a'ahao is not so luxuriant and fruitful as the country about Mata'avi As I saw nothing of consequence to detain me I made a present to Te'a'ahao and after inviting him to visit me on board the ship which he promised to do I took leave Tina had remained all this time in the boat I observed that no respect was shown to him at this place nor was he able to procure a coconut or a breadfruit otherwise than by purchasing it The heifer being here is a proof of this district not having been friendly to the people of Mata'avi and Opa'are On our way back having to row against the wind we stopped to refresh at Opa'are and it was 8 o'clock by the time we arrived at the ship I kept my fellow travelers on board to supper and they did not fail to remind me of the king's health Monday 17 Our collection of breadfruit plants at the tents continued increasing This morning I sent 12 on board in pots to discover where they would thrive the best the air being more temperate on board the ship than on shore While I was absent from the ship Te'a'ahao had been on board and left a hog as a present for me After dinner today Tina, who was my constant visitor left the table sooner than usual When he was gone O'are'apaya, his brother and O-A-D-D told me a piece of scandal which had been before hinted to me but which till now I had not heard of with certainty This was that Edea Tina's wife kept a gallant who was a toto or servant and the very person who always fed Tina at dinner And this was so far from being without Tina's knowledge or consent that they said it was by his desire They added many other circumstances and as I appeared to doubt they took several opportunities in the course of the day of mentioning it to other people who all declared it was true Tuesday, 18 This afternoon I saw Te'a'ahao and invited him on board Before we parted I bargained with him for the heifer which he promised to bring in five days My intention was that if I got the heifer I could endeavor to purchase the bowl at Etehea But if that could not be done then I could send the heifer as a present to the possessor of the bowl which might equally well answer my purpose It has been mentioned that Tina had a place in my cabin to keep those things which I gave him as being more secure on board than on shore I had remarked lately that his horde seemed to diminish the more I endeavored to increase it At length I discovered that Edea kept another horde in the master's cabin which she regularly enriched from her husbands whenever I gave him a present apprehending that I should cease giving when I saw Tina's locker full At his request I set the carpenters to work to make him a chest large enough for himself and wife to sleep on Captain Cook had formally given him such a chest but it had been taken from him by the Edea people Friday, 21 This forenoon I received a message from Te'ahao To acquaint me, the heifer was brought to Matahavi I immediately went on shore and found that he had been as good as his word The purchase money was paid which consisted of a shirt, a hatchet, a spiked nail, a knife, a pair of scissors, a gimlet, and file to which was added a small quantity of love sugar Te'ahao appeared well pleased with his bargain and I sent the heifer to Poe-Anoe's residence near which was plenty of grass In the afternoon I was invited to a heiva the most extraordinary part of which was an oration with some ceremonies in compliment to us Twelve men were divided into four ranks with two women in the front behind them all stood a priest who made a speech which lasted 10 minutes and which was listened to with some attention During this the picture of Captain Cook which had been brought for that purpose was placed by my side When the priest left off speaking a piece of white cloth was wrapped round the picture and another piece round me The priest then spoke again for a short time and an old man placed a piece of plated coconut leaf at my feet The same was done to Tina and one piece was put under the picture After this the dancing began which was in the same style that we had already seen The head of the ship was the figure of a woman and not ill-carved As we were painting the ship's upper works I directed this figure to be painted in colors with which the islanders were much pleased Not only the men, but the women desired me to bring English women when I came again Today Oedede, thinking that I was not convinced of the truth of what he had told me about Oedede mentioned the affair to the lady herself in my hearing, at which she laughed but said he did ill to tell me of it However, it was evident she was not much offended for they were both very much diverted and discoursing upon the subject I find that it is not at all uncommon for brothers to have connections with the wives of each other particularly elder brothers with the wives of their younger brothers which is generally allowed and no offense taken But if any person not belonging to the family endeavors at the same intimacy, it is resented as an injury Inclination seems to be the only binding law of marriage at Oedede As I proposed to get instruments on shore at Point Venus to make observations I desired Tina to order a house to be brought there for me which was done and fixed in half an hour being only a light shed supported by posts Monday 24 Today I bought a turtle that was caught on the reefs As Tina was going to leave me for a few days I had it dressed for his dinner He told me that his mother, Ube Rea Aeroa was arrived from the island, Teithu Roa and begged that I would send for her in the morning and take care of her till he returned which I willingly promised Tuesday 25 This morning I sent a boat to Opare which returned in the afternoon with Ube Rea Aeroa and two women, her servants As she was old and carpulent it was with difficulty that we helped her up the ship's side As soon as she was in the ship she sat down on the gangway and, clasping my knees in her arms expressed her pleasure at seeing me by a flood of tears Her servants then produced three pieces of cloth which with a large hog some breadfruit plantains and coconuts she had brought as a present As she was fatigued by her journey she wished to remain on board all night and I directed accommodations to be prepared which was done with little trouble as nothing more was necessary than a mat and some cloth spread on the deck She had with her a favorite cat bread from one that had been given her by Captain Cook She told me all the misfortunes that had befallen her son and friends since Captain Cook left Otehidi All the accounts agree in some of the cattle being now alive at the island Ae Mayo In number they differ but that there were eight is the least account Wednesday 26 In the morning Ube Rea Aeroa being desirous to go on shore I made her a present of several things which she did not care to take with her then but requested I would keep them safe for her Only Moana and Poe Aeno dined with me today They told me that Tina and his brother Orei Apea were not on good terms together and it was imagined they would fight as soon as the ship was gone I had observed a coolness between them and had at times endeavored to make them more cordial but with very little effect Their quarrel has arisen from a disagreement between their wives In the afternoon a canoe from Ue Atea arrived in which was an Aerea or chief of that island who is an nephew to Ube Rea Aeroa He brought a sheep with him the poor animal was infected with the mange and in very poor condition The climate had not as far as I could judge altered the quality of the wool with which he was well covered except a part about the shoulders I imagined this animal to be the English Ue left by Captain Cook The owner assured me that they were 10 sheep at Huahayene the truth of which I much doubted I was surprised and rather mortified to find that he sets a little value on this as to let me have it at the first word for a small adds I sent it to be kept at Poe Aeno's with the heifer Friday 28 Tina and his wife returned to Matahavi and from appearances which I have no reason to misdoubt were sincerely glad to see me again after their short absence They brought as usual a present of a hug and fruit This morning there was an eclipse of the sun but the weather was so cloudy that I had only an opportunity of observing the end of the eclipse which was at 19 hours 43 minutes 53 seconds Saturday 29 I sent a man to share the Ue by which a remedy could be more easily applied to cure the disease with which it was infected The garden made near the tents was not in a prosperous condition Most of the melons and cucumbers were destroyed by insects and the soil being sandy was not favorable to the other seeds I therefore chose another spot of ground farther from the seaside and had an assortment of seed sown December Monday 1 In the night the rudder of one of the boats was stolen from the tents On landing in the morning neither Tina nor any of his family came near me being I was informed afraid of my displeasure As the loss was not great I immediately sent to assure them that I had no anger except against the person who committed the theft In consequence of this message Tina and some of the other chiefs came to the tents and promised that they would exert themselves to discover the thief and get the rudder restored This was the first theft of any consequence that had been committed since the tents were on the shore and my suspicions fell chiefly on the people who were here from some of the other islands Tina had just begun to build a house for himself and I promised that our carpenter should assist him Why day aah the youngest brother of Tina had lately been one of my constant visitors and seems to have left off his former custom of getting drunk with the Abba He was esteemed one of their best warriors and I was told that in the quarrel with the people of A. E. Mayo he killed Mahayini the chief of that island Friday 5 The weather for some time past had been very unsettled This afternoon the wind blew fresh from the northwest which occasioned the sea to break very high across the dolphin bank and in the night such a heavy broken sea came into the bay that we were obliged to batten all the hatchways down and to keep everybody on deck all night though the rain came down in torrents The ship rolled in a most violent manner Saturday 6 In the morning the wind increasing and there being no possibility of putting to sea we struck yards and top masks entrusted to our anchors The river swelled so much with the rain that the point of the land on which the tent stood became an island and to preserve the breadfruit plants from being endangered the people were obliged to cut a passage for the river threw a part of the beach at a distance from the tent The sea broke very high on the beach Nevertheless the canoe put off into my surprise Tina, his wife, and Moana made their way good through the surf and came on board to see me There was no other person in the canoe for the weather did not admit of useless passengers each of them had a paddle which they managed with great activity and skill These kind people embraced me with many tears and expressed their apprehensions for the safety of the ship Towards noon however the sea abated considerably but the wind continued to blow strong from the northwest At sunset Idea went on shore but Tina would remain with me the whole night Sunday 7 The wind continued between the north and northwest but had so much moderated that I no longer considered our situation to be alarming At noon Idea returned to the ship with a large hog and a supply of breadfruit and coconuts and soon after she and Tina left the ship having extracted a promise from me that if the weather was moderate I would go on shore in the morning and visit their parents and sister who they told me had been much alarmed on our accounts I received a visit likewise from Poe Aeno and his wife This woman had always shown great regard for us and now in our meeting before I could be aware of it she began beating her head violently with a shark's tooth so that her face was covered with blood in an instant I put a stop to this as soon as I could and with the drying up of the blood her agitation subsided This ceremony is frequently performed upon occasions either of joy or grief Her husband said that if any accident happened to the ship I should live with him and that they would cut down trees and build me another ship From this sample of the weather and the information of the natives I was convinced it would not be safe to continue in Mata Evi Bay much longer and I determined to get everything ready for sailing as speedily as I could Monday 8. The night proved moderate and in the morning I went on shore where I was received by Ube Averoa and several other friends with great affection The plants received no injury from the bad weather having been carefully covered from the spray of the sea Some were in a dormant state and others were striking out young shoots Nelson thought it was better to refrain a few days from taking them on board I therefore consented to defer it He was of the opinion that the plants could be propagated from the roots only and I directed some boxes to be filled as we could stow them where no others could be placed Tuesday 9. This afternoon in hauling the launch on shore to be repaired many of the natives assisting one of them a fine boy about 10 years old was thrown down in a roller which was placed under the boat went over him The surgeon being ill I sent off for his assistant Fortunately no limb was broken nor did he receive any material injury The surgeon had been a long time ill the effect of intemperance and indolence He had laterally scarce ever stirred out of his cabin but was not apprehended to be in a dangerous state Nevertheless this evening he appeared to be so much worse than usual that it was thought necessary to remove him to some place where he could have more air but to no effect for he died in an hour afterwards This unfortunate man drank very hard and was so adverse to exercise that he never would be prevailed on to take half a dozen turns upon deck at a time in the course of the voyage Wednesday 10. As I wished to bury the surgeon on shore I mentioned that Tatina who said there would be no objection but that it would be necessary to ask his father's consent first which he undertook to do and immediately left me for that purpose By this circumstance it appears that although the oldest son of an A. R. A. succeeds to the title and honors of the father as soon as he is born yet a considerable portion of authority remains with the father even after the son is of age When Tatina returned I went with him to the spot intended for the burial place taking with us two men to dig the grave but on our arrival I found the natives had already begun it Tatina asked me if they were doing it right There says he the sun rises and there it sets The idea that the grave should be east and west I imagine they learned from the Spaniards as the captain of one of their ships was buried at O. Tahiti in 1774 Certain it is they had not the information from anybody belonging to our ship for I believe we should not have thought of it The grave however was marked out very exactly At four in the afternoon the body was interned the chiefs and many of the natives came to see the ceremony and showed great attention during the service Some of the chiefs were very inquisitive about what was to be done with the surgeon's cabin on account of apparitions They said when a person died in O. Tahiti and was carried to the Tupa Pau that as soon as night came he was surrounded by spirits and if any person went there by himself they would devour him Therefore they said that not less than two people together should go into the surgeon's cabin for some time I did not endeavor to dissuade them from this belief otherwise than by laughing and letting them know that we had no such apprehensions In the afternoon the effects of the deceased were disposed of and I appointed Mr. Thomas Denman, Edward the surgeon's mate to do duty as surgeon Friday 12 I went on a boat to examine the harbors around Opae and found two formed by the reefs The western most is the most convenient for sailing in or out but it is not well shielded from a northwest wind or sea This harbor is called by the natives Taone It is about a league and a half distant from Point Venus and may be known by a remarkable mountain called by the natives Waure which bears southeast from the entrance The eastern most harbor is called Toa Roa It is small but as secure as a reef harbor can well be It is about three miles distant from Point Venus The chief objection to this harbor is the difficulty of getting out with the common trade wind The entrance being on the east side not more than 100 yards wide and the depth without convenient for warping On the south side of the entrance is a morae The reef side is to be kept on board and a lookout to be kept from aloft once the shoal water is better discerned than from the deck Sunday 14 This forenoon we performed divine service Many of the principal natives attended and behaved with great decency Some of the women at one time betrayed an inclination to laugh at our general responses but on my looking at them they appeared much ashamed After the service I was asked if no offering was to be made for the Aetua to eat The weather had been fair all the last week and at this time appeared quite settled so that I was under no apprehensions from danger for continuing a little longer in Matahavi Bay End of Chapter 8