 Warning, working inside a CRT can be dangerous. Viewer discretion is advised. Hey everybody, I'm Steve, and welcome back today. I've got a new repair video for you specifically on one of the best PVMs in the world. That is the Sony PVM 20L5. This particular PVM belongs to a friend of mine named Corey from My Life in Gaming. And if you're watching this video right now, most likely you're aware of their channel and all the great work they do for the retro gaming community. Well, I was definitely eager to take an opportunity to work on a couple of monitors for him. Both were L5s, a 14L5 and a 20L5. Here's a look at the precondition on these. They weren't in awful shape or anything. Today, this 20L5 does need a bit of calibration adjustments. It's in pretty good condition as it sits, but it definitely needs to be clean. And we're gonna go ahead and check out some things internally, service it a bit, and refurbish it to the point where it's in just little tip top shape and ready to be used and enjoyed for quite a long time. So this is, again, just some calibration screens we're gonna start with looking at. So you can see the overall condition as we begin. I do like to look at that grid pattern and then the linearity pattern as well as that other grid on top of linearity pattern to see if what we're gonna take care of and what we're gonna try to improve on the screen quality. Now to get into this monitor, it's pretty much similar to any other PVM. You're gonna have six chrome screws along the sides of the shell of the monitor and you're gonna have four screws on the back. And then I recommend if you have any kind of card or anything in your expansion slot that you remove that prior to removing the shell. It just makes it a little easier. So once you get the screws out, you just pull the shell completely back. It's gonna pull off the back and the sides and the top. It'll all come off in one complete piece and then you'll be able to access the back area of this monitor. Now the one thing I will complain about on the 2005 is there's a lot of plastic and it holds the monitor together and over time that plastic can become quite brittle, especially those arms you'll notice that are holding these boards in place. So if you're gonna service your 2005 or 1405, just be aware that a lot of the plastic internally is very fragile at this point and it will easily crack and you'll see that even happen in this video just a tiny bit, not on anything major. But the first thing we're gonna do is we're gonna get in and service this D board, which is very easy to get to thankfully. It's right in the back on the, when you're looking at the back of the PVM, it's on the right hand side. And the first thing you'll do is disconnect all the connection cables on that board. And then it does have three screws holding it into place. And again, that plastic right there that's holding it is very fragile. So just take your time when you're removing the screws and then also take your time when you're removing the board so you don't damage it any. Now you can see this obviously on your screen that Corey's PVM was very dirty inside and that's one of the major contributors to failure on older electronics is over time this dust can build up and it acts as an insulator on a lot of these older components. And then that heat builds up under that dust and then the insulation creates that layer and the heat builds up higher than the normal heat load would be on those components. And that causes them to fail quicker than they normally would. So even if you're not going to do any cap work, it's a great idea to clean your PVM or any CRT at this point that's never been cleaned. It's a good idea to get in there and clean off the dust. You'll notice I used a brush that was an old paint brush. There's nothing conductive about the bristles on that brush so it's fine to use on this. The other thing I did is that I'm going through right now are the actual capacitors that will be changing because again, this is just gonna get kind of a preventative maintenance and refurbishment cap kit. It's not a complete cap kit. I don't recommend that for a 20.05 or 14.05 unless you have a serious issue with your monitor. So we're just going in and we're doing preventative maintenance pretty much to get out those components and capacitors specifically that are in the high heat areas of that D board and those tend to wear out quicker than the other capacitors that are about an inch away that are not in a higher heat area on the board. So I use the HACCO FR301 which is one of my favorite tools and I've used it for a few years now and it still runs strong. So if you're thinking about getting one of those for any kind of capacitor or electrolytic, any kind of PCB work, I highly recommend one. And then I went in and as I go through and replace the capacitors here, I'll just give you some tips on my solder work here. And I'm not the best at soldering but I do have a lot of experience and I have my own way of doing things which is to pull the capacitor legs through on a couple of capacitors like I did and then I like to take a bit of flux and rub that all over the points that I'm about to place solder on. Then I heat up the little pad and I'll add a bit of solder and then I come in after that and I trim the legs down. I'll trim those legs down and then I'll reflow those points with fresh solder again. And that gives you both a great bond and with my experience on recapping boards like this, it just seems to look better if you do it that way for me. So just something to note there, that's how I do it. You don't necessarily have to do it that way. You could go in and clip the legs ahead of time. One thing you'll notice that I do a lot in my videos too is I go back and check my work. And what I'm doing right here is I'm using just a standard multimeter that I've got and I've got it set to continuity check. And what that'll do is it'll help me make sure that all my solder points are connected so I can run from one spot on the board that's in line with the pad that I just put solder on and I can check those points out to make sure that I have continuity where I should have continuity. And it pretty much eliminates any chances of errors as far as from maybe poor soldering. And so I like to, even if I'm servicing multiple boards on a PVM or BVM or any CRT, I like to service them one at a time if possible and then test them after that. And I'll go through that on why that's preferable here in a second. But just so you know, this job did work on this little D board. So everything went fine with that cap replacement. Now I'm gonna take the rest of the CRT apart because we also need to check on the main chassis, which is on the bottom of the monitor itself. You'll see in a second here as I pull it out, it's got the flyback attached to it. And you need to remove the deflection board we just worked on again. Then you need to remove that plastic bracket that's holding it. You'll need to come in and remove the input board too on the back of the PVM. And that's where this job can get a little overwhelming because there are gonna be just dozens of little connections on cables that you're gonna be removing. And then you'll have to go in later once you're finished and reinstall this stuff. So you need to kind of make sure that you document where a lot of these connections go and familiarize yourself with it. But just note that they should only fit in one specific spot. So it's a good way to double check though to make sure you've documented a way that that looks ahead of time in case you forget and you're trying to reassemble the monitor at a later point. You wanna put it back together correctly. So you're gonna have to do some other things too when you're back here and disassembling this. To get to this main chassis, we had to get rid of the neck board which you just saw. And before I go through, let me pause this video real quick before we jump into right at the point we're about to discharge the CRT. I wanted to show one thing over here which would have been in the way of my camera. So we're gonna move myself just out of the picture for this part of the show and we'll go through. And I wanna show you on the back of this neck board. This neck board does have a plastic bit that is holding it to the back of the CRT neck. And that cracks all the time. So do not be upset if that happens to you when you're restoring it because that's quite common for that to break right there. And it doesn't really affect anything. It's just an extra piece holding that neck board into place. And that's been removed on a lot of other monitors but it's on there. So now let's get in here and we're gonna do our big alert here first. Before I do this, this is your safety warning. Here we go, we're going to do something called discharging the CRT tube because we have to get the flyback which is attached to the main board on this monitor out. So you don't always have to do this on every monitor but do be aware that this procedure can be quite dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. And so what I've done here though is I've got my alligator clip on my cable which is attached to this screwdriver here and then so that is grounded to the main frame of the CRT. Do not have your CRT plugged into the wall when you do this. You just need to get that electricity from the back of the tube to short out through your cable onto the main chassis frame and then it'll just kind of dissipate throughout all the ground on that frame really quickly and then the energy is gone. So that's what we're doing. We're not gonna leave it plugged in. We're gonna have it unplugged and then we're gonna again attach the alligator clip like I did here to the metal frame and then I'm lifting the cap with one hand. You don't have to do this. The reason I am doing this is I don't wanna damage Corey's tube or his flyback at all. So I'm gonna take the little bit extra risk of myself and lift that rubber anode cap up so I can expose the metal and then we'll go in here and tap it with our discharge tool. Now I often get asked if I have a resistor in this tool and I don't. It's literally just a piece of copper cable that is from a section of an old extension cable, heavy duty marine extension cable that I cut a section out of and it's triple insulated and I attach that with just some electrical tape to the metal end and then run the other end and I soldered on an alligator clip. And so after you've discharged it, you're safe to pull that chassis out. Now that was what you see right here is done very quickly but again, you're gonna have a ton of cables holding this chassis in there and I made it look easy there but you need to make sure you get it out of the way correctly and that you take all the screws out so you don't damage the board. Here's a quick look at Cory's board. Tons and tons of just dust and dirt built up. This could easily cause a spark on these ICs or heat to build up in here. So this is way more vital than even the capacitor replacement most likely is getting in here and cleaning off this dust. It's gonna really save a lot of these components from the risk of overheating and shorting out and being damaged. So it's a great thing that we were able to get in here and first clean these boards and then I'll show you again where work on some capacitors in here. This board is just not that fun to work on though. I mean, it's a very difficult board to work in. It's tight. There were a couple components that I had to remove just to get the capacitors out because they were situated in such a way that it's just right up against a heat shield or under another component and just a very difficult chassis to work on. So I don't recommend this if you don't have a lot of experience working on a CRT. You should not probably go in and try to start by recapping your 20.05 or 14.05. That one has nearly the same build out as this. It's almost identical even though the monitor is a little bit larger on the 20 inch version. And here we have our CRT chassis main board that we're gonna be working on. And here's a look at it after it's been cleaned up. It already looks a bunch. I mean, lots better. So I'll go through here again and mark off the specific capacitors. It's difficult to see but I did put some markings on some of them. They're really down in here again. There's actually one right under this plate right here but a lot of them will not be replacing. And so anyway, that's the rest of the job is working on that board. I'm not gonna show you that because again it's just difficult to get in there and do that and I already showed you how to recap that other board. It's pretty much the same exact process. So do get your board and PVM ready to be fully rebuilt. Let's go in here now and clean off the rest of the back of Corey CRT. And then it's gonna use the brush. We use our brush and some more compressed air. And I also like to go in and rub the back of the tube with a clean washcloth. It's not wet, it is dry and I'm just getting a lot and locking off a lot of that thick dirt and dust. You don't wanna get anything too abrasive on the back of the tube and you don't wanna really scrub the back of the tube because some of the stuff on the back of the tube is meant to be there. So it's good to knock the dust though off of it. And then we'll get the dust out of the rest of this thing with the brush and more compressed air. So again, this is just what happens in these CRTs. There's so much little space for dust to build up over time. And Corey's looking at like 15, 16 years on a monitor of just not been cleaned before. So it's understandable how that can build up over time. And it's definitely something that you wanna take care of. Again, even if you're not getting in there and recapping like we did, you can always come in and clean the board and even use just the brush and cans of compressed air if you have to just go to the store and buy it. I use a professional air compressor but I can use just canned air. And here we have the monitor put back together and we're gonna do one last thing before I put this anode cap back and let's apply a fresh coat of dye electric grease. Now what this will do is it will extend the life of the anode cap and it limits the wear and tear on the cap and the components itself. And it also will eliminate any kind of crackling or popping most likely. If you hear that when you turn your CRT on there's a chance you got some dust or something under your cap. And this dye electric grease pretty much prevents that from happening so you won't have any noise. And it also works to recondition that cap a little bit by putting this on that lube on there. So just get a healthy amount of that on the back of the tube right around the cap. It can be in the cap. It can be in the little anode metal piece. It can be on the prongs on the back of the anode cap. It doesn't really matter. It's not gonna hurt it. It actually does help it. So that's one of my favorite things to go in there and do is reapply that little dye electric grease because many times it's gone on a CRT. And you can get it for about 10 bucks a can and you go in, add it and it really does make a difference. A lot of times if you have a loud CRT or any kind of crackling or anything like that it's very recommended. So let's get in here now and test it out. We got it all put back together. Everything looks good, right off the bat at least. We're gonna start this monitor up and just give a regular power check and then I'll get a signal put into it and we'll see what it looks like with some, start off with some Contra here and a little bit of 240p, which again is one of the reasons that people really love this monitor is the 240p, 480i, 480p, 720p and 1080i. It supports all those video formats in a CRT form with some incredible blacks. It's got high TV line count on there and it's an all around great monitor. Now Corey's had a chip in the display. Okay, he had a tiny chip. I've done this before, but I wanted to show you in today's video I went and took off the anti-glare layer so that we could get rid of that chip. He said it was so distracting, he didn't care, his monitor was going into his basement and there's not really a huge difference between having that layer on and off if you're in a dark room and you're using it you won't notice that you don't have it really. So this can be done by using an X-Acto knife and you want to try to get this off in one big like single pull. You don't want to try to get in there and pull the layer apart. It should stay all together in one big layer and if you pull it off you don't have to worry about the glue getting stuck like I'm doing here. I just basically use the utility knife to peel back the corner and then you grab the corner with a pliers pull it a little more and then as you go just try to continuously put pressure on it and pull it down and pull it off and that way you can just avoid having any kind of residue on the screen from the screen layer itself. I've probably done that five or six times and I've never had anything left on the screen glass under the layer of protection, that protective layer. I've never seen the glue stick on there but I've talked to other people who've had trouble and have had it break and had to try to get rid of glue on there and that can be very troublesome but once you remove it you just put the bezel back in place and we'll get it set back up to run another test. The good thing about it is if you get rid of that layer then you can go in and use any kind of real nice glass cleaner and clean the glass thoroughly afterwards. I'm gonna show you though some calibration screens. This is after I've adjusted it. I do have videos that I'll link to the playlist for the 2005 in the comments and in the upper corner here of this video where you can check out the procedure to calibrate this particular monitor but we do have some improvements on the specific things that we were talking about as far as geometry on the screen. You can notice our screen has expanded out to near perfection. Still have a tiny warp or wobble on those sides but that's pretty much prevalent on every single CRT or the majority of them at least. Some type of minor geometry issue is definitely gonna be there most of the time. So here's some action shots. Again of 240p we're gonna get real close and show you some scan lines. This thing really will take your breath away for 240p this monitor and then 480p is awesome on it too because you can still maintain the four by three aspect ratio so it's an awesome monitor and definitely one to keep an eye out for. Now I did an episode of MarketWatch where I talked about how much these are going for right now and something like this is honestly selling for like $2,500 right now it's this particular monitor and I anticipate that price to probably only go up because again it's getting so much more difficult to get a higher end 20 inch monitor that does progressive and analog video. Well that's it for today's restoration. Corey's 20.05 is great. He says it's working wonderfully and the next video we're gonna talk about is 14L5 because that actually needed a bit more work. I had to do a tube swap on it and also service the boards, clean it and get it back calibrated. So look for that video to come very soon and I thank you for joining me today. If you're new to the channel and you've stayed around to this point just go ahead and hit the subscribe button and join us for the next installment of Retro Tech we're gonna repair. I make repair videos about once a week and they come out generally on Mondays. And so, but if you're just joining me for the first time, thanks. Make sure you subscribe and if you've come back and you got any questions please leave a question or comment below and I'll do my best to get back to you as soon as possible. Thanks again. I'll see you guys next time with some more Retro content. Well hello everybody and welcome back today to Retro Tech and we will be doing another restoration process, repair for my friend Corey over at My Life in Gaming again. I'm sure most of you caught my video where I was able to restore and kind of repair his 20.05. Today we're gonna work on the second monitor he brought in which is a 14.05. But first off I wanted to show you just in case you are not familiar with these guys channel which I'm sure most of you probably are but just in case you're not here is their channel and I did wanna give you a little bit of a challenge here. They have done some amazing documentaries if you've not already seen these, these analog frontiers, part two is here and part one was from about nine months ago down here anyway. If you want to take a challenge, oh here it is, right here. So if you wanna take a challenge go back and watch those videos or if you haven't seen them go back and watch them. But if you have seen them see if you can find the parts where I make my cameo appearance in these. It's really hard on number one, really easy on number two. So anyways, just wanted to show you that real quick and before we get started though on this repair process, I wanted to walk you through a little bit on the PVM 20.05 and 14.05. This is a specific Sony brochure on this model and this was a pretty futuristic model compared to the other PVMs at the time. Sony completely redesigned the shell of the monitor and everything inside it as well as added some support that this monitor could do that other PVMs in the past could not which just is from 240p resolution support and 480i resolution support which is only analog that the old PVM supported. Well with this line they added the digital support of 480p, 720p and then 1080i and there are even some other resolutions that this does support that are if you're in a different region, that's important to note. This thing, this monitor is able to be used in different worldwide areas. It has a power supply that goes from 100ac volts to 240 so it does have a multiple function like that. There are some things I do need to let you know it does have an 800 line tube and when you go into something like 720p it's gonna obviously go into a widescreen mode and with this monitor it's gonna shrink that resolution down to 600 TV lines. So just be aware of that if you move into those higher resolutions, the resolution of the tube or the sharpness of the tube is gonna go down slightly but at least it does support it. Now if we talked about something on here in the early 2000s this monitor would have come out and the 14.05 we're looking at today would have cost about $2,025 is the MSRP in the early 2000s and that's just for the monitor not really for any accessories. Accessories like cards would have cost more. Now if we go ahead and change that to today's money with inflation in the United States as of October of 2020 we're looking at about $3,090. So it's kind of an expensive monitor but not the most expensive. Currently the lowest price on eBay has one for about $1,500. I've seen them sell between $700 to $1,000 right now as again we're talking about in October of 2020. So it's definitely one of the higher priced 14 inch monitors on the market. So next I wanna show you a little bit about today's prepare which we're gonna be swapping the tube on this one. I'll show you a little bit about the problems with this tube on the 14.05 but first I wanna go through a little bit of the process with you because some of these I've done the video on the 20.05 I've shown you how to do this and rather than show you how to do the process again I figured I would link to that video right here in case you wanna watch the first couple of minutes and see how you remove the shell and the first board but if you don't I can just go over it with you real quickly in this service manual and so I'm at page eight of disassembly so we're gonna need to do here is this first step of removing the shell which is just removing those six screws and then the screws on the back and then removing it back and then we're gonna get in and we're also gonna have to remove our bezel assembly a little bit and finally we're gonna have to go in here and one of the things we are gonna start off with being removing is our D board. There is a nice block diagram and many block diagrams that tell you exactly how to take a lot of these points apart on this monitor which is very helpful and so let's go ahead now without any further ado and jump into our footage for our repair. Well here are the monitors I wanna show you first how I had them set up and go through some test footage and video so I can show you the exact condition of the PVM and the tubes. The PVM overall was in really tip top shape cosmetically from the outside. The problem here is that this tube and 14 inch monitor must have been used in its prior commercial life as a direct monitor that was most likely on constantly and it's really gonna be hard to notice here what I'm talking about on the screen burn till I get to some specific pictures that I'm gonna show you. You can tell though that the geometry is pretty good on here so we're not as concerned about geometry problems. We're more concerned with this which is our screen burn so just try to look in here. I'm trying to point this out as we roll through this footage. We're gonna look for, I'll try to pause it right on the point here where I can see it best on my LCD screen maybe right there. So let's look right here. You see where it says D-E-S-K and I think it says T-O-P and then there's some other lettering in here and it's there. There's no way to get rid of it. It's burned into the actual tube screen so that was the big problem with this one is just that screen tube burn that was against the entire top section and there might've even been a little bit of burn in the bottom corner but we can fix that by swapping this tube out. So I told you earlier about how I wanted to show you some of those, I wanted to get rid of some of that process in this video by removing that shell that's already been done and so has that D-Board that has been removed. Those are very simple to do. It's literally just the screws pulling it out and the same thing with the D-Board there's an entire bracket holding it in place. You just simply remove that bracket and those connection points and then you're able to access this area of the back of the PVM. Now, we're gonna try to take this apart without really taking everything on the monitor apart. I wanna keep as much of this together as possible to limit the amount of time I have to take trying to reassemble on the back end. So the way I'm gonna start this is obviously with the D-Board gone, next I'm gonna move on to the neck board. There are some connections on there that you'll need to disconnect in order to get the neck board to get a little bit loose. There's also a ring on that neck board that connects it to a piece of plastic. Now, 95 out of 100 times that plastic will just crack and break. Don't worry about it, it's not necessary for the next tube. It's just a little bit of a spacer to hold that neck board into place but it normally gets held into place. So what you see me do right now is the discharge process. And this is the way that the Sony manual actually says to discharge, which is not actually to use the discharge tool directly on the tube, it's to pull the anode cap out and then discharge that against the frame or to the discharge tool. And I know that seems a little crazy but that's the way they recommend it so you don't scrape the back of your tube with a screwdriver. So the next part here is our removal of our bezel which is just four screws holding that into place. The big part you wanna make sure you're aware of is your button, your power button right here, on off button. Now that is mechanically on a switch and it's in a couple pieces. So sometimes the forward part of the button will fall out. It's not a problem, you can go back, snap it back into place but it is loose and it does fall out. There are also a few connection cables that will need to be removed but I'm not gonna remove all of them because I'm gonna keep this side here still intact. That way I'm limiting, I don't wanna remove the whole bezel and then put it all back on. I just wanna be able to access this tube as easily as possible. Removing the bezel and keeping it out there all the way like that is a way for me to easily get back to it. Now this is just held in by four bolts so I'm just gonna remove those bolts and we're gonna get this tube out because again nobody wants to have those nasty letters on their tube and they're trying to play a game especially not when you're on a white screen that's really distracting to have screen burn on a bright colored screen or uniform colored screen. So there we go, we've got it fully loosened. You'll notice that I did not remove that yoke, okay? That yoke is gonna stay on there for now and I'll tell you why here in a second. Let's go through real quickly and I wanna show you the donor monitor that we're taking the tube out of. This right here is the Sony A14 F5U that had no controller boards in it except for the SDI card. And I've got a few of these monitors. I literally bought this straight for the parts, this monitor. So I'm taking that tube from this one. I only had 6,500 hours of use on it, beautiful tube and this is what the frame looks like after I've taken that tube out. Kind of the same process as it was with the other one but there we have it. It's our new tube, it's compatible, it's wonderful. So is the yoke, that's the best part about this whole job is that the yoke is compatible. So this tube right here is gonna be compatible with just about any BVM. You know, with any of the BVMs if you have a problem with it, you could swap it between those BVMs that are 14 inches as well as this 14L5 because they're all 800 line tubes and they also include the nice little anti-scratch resistant layer on there. So that's a nice wonderful thing that only those higher end tubes will have. But again, I get to just switch this and the yoke is completely compatible on here. So that's another good reason to buy, if you can, an A series with low hours for relatively low price and you can get it for the parts. Again, the tube is a perfectly great tube and the fact that they use the same yoke is really saving a lot of time because if I bought a new tube, it would cost more and then I'd have to go in and reset the yoke, reset the convergence, reset everything on it without, you know, that would take a lot longer than just a simple swap of the tube with the yoke still on there, especially since it's compatible. So this, we're just going back and doing the reverse of what you saw me do a few minutes ago, which is to replace everything back that we just took out so we can test this tube. And you want to fully reassemble your bezel. I just showed you there how to do it. It can be kind of frustrating and difficult to line up, but take your time, make sure you screw it back in and then you just got a couple of connections to make on the side there and you're ready to hook everything back up. We'll start back with the neck board. We'll remake all our connections and then we're going to put the yoke or the anode cap back into the back of the tube, replace the deflection board you saw me, briefly pull it up, but that's where it goes right here. It's really simple. I'm telling you, it's just one screw, usually maybe two on this bracket and the whole bracket lifts up and pulls out and you just want to make sure you've disconnected all these cables on here. So that way I didn't have to sit there and bore you with showing you that process again, but that's all you need to do is just reset that. Let's see if we can get a test screen pulled up. Looks like it's working fine. We've got our blue, white, green screen a little bit there and here we have our first test of a console on it. Now I do need to do a little bit of calibration adjustment, which I will go through here briefly with you. So you want to, this will be calibrated the same way you're gonna calibrate any of these L5s and even the L2 should be pretty similar, even though it has a different button pattern, the menus will be similar. So we're gonna get into that deflection block by hitting the gauze and pulling the menu up and hitting the gauze and menu at the same time and to pull it up and again, once you get into that, you just wanna go deflection block on your submenu and you can make all the necessary adjustments for horizontal, vertical centerness, linearity, pin cushion settings and et cetera. So this tube, I mean, with the 6,000 hour tube, that's just a really low amount of hours. It looked beautiful. The new, it looked amazing. I mean, it looked even better and more sharp than I could have imagined just by the tube swap. So we got a tube balanced, Corey loved it. He told me that he was actually considering making this the main monitor in his setup because it looked so much better than the previous or just the 20.05, looks great, but not as great as when you compact that screen size down a little bit. Just looks a whole lot sharper. So I took the old tube that you saw with the screen burn and I actually installed it back into the A series just so I could use this monitor and still have it be testable or if I need it for some other reason, it's ready to go and I can use it still again as like a tester for other boards, but I'm not concerned with the fact that it has a screen, a tube with screen burning it really. It's just a pretty much a parts unit anyway. And, you know, this A series, they're great monitors, but they're just not really, right now they're not worth much more than parts considering how rare the analog boards are. I mean, not only the 68X, the 61D that has composite and S video support is really getting difficult to get as well. So that's it for today's repair. Again, just a tube swap. And if you have a bad tube, look for these A series monitors with low hours because you can generally get them for a lot less than you can even a working analog only BVM. So that tube can be taken out of here and it can go in even an analog only BVM like an F or a G series. And again, that yoke is most likely 100% compatible. Just check it out though to make sure ahead of time. And before you plug it in that it is in case, I mean, I obviously showed you here that the 14L5 and the A series and then I know the D series that those are all compatible. But if you go back further into analog only monitors, just double check before you plug in the yoke. It probably won't do anything wrong to the tube but there's always a chance. Anyway, thanks again for watching today guys. If you're new to the channel, please make sure you subscribe and hit the like button for me. And if you have any questions or comments please leave them below and I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content. Hey everybody, welcome back today to Retro Tech. I'm very excited to talk to you a little bit more in depth first off about this monitor we're looking at today. The Sony PVM 2005. Now this does represent the very best professional video monitor that Sony made in the CRT format that being again the PVM 2005 high resolution Trinitron monitor. Now the specific reason that this 20 inch CRT reigns supreme over all the other PVMs is the fact that it will do a lot of different video signals from 240p and 480i up to even other signals like 480p, 720p, 1080i. Now what we've got on the screen right now is 480p through Xbox, the original Xbox in component and the back main input on the monitor. Now the monitor will also accept inputs in the form of composite, S-video and then RGB sync which can be shared over that single component line. And then there is an expansion bay on the back of this monitor that allows for an additional card to be inserted and that way you can have an additional input for something like a secondary switchable RGB slash component input with something like a BKM129X. But again, just one of the greatest examples of what Sony could do in the early 2000s. This was kind of a step up as far as a lot of the performance would have compared to a lot of the earlier Sony PVMs. And even the one right before this which would have been the 20M4U that would have been the more superior broadcast and production level CRT that wasn't a BVM. Now the one thing you should note is that when it switches from a analog video signal into one of the 720p or 1080i, it is gonna go into a 16 by nine mode and shrink the screen down. And when it does that, you will lose 200 lines of resolution. So it does go down to a 600 TV line tube. And then sometimes when you do that, you will notice that the red, green and blue vertical blanking lines at the top of the screen will show. Now that is normal and it's standard for that to happen. So don't think there's something wrong with your monitor if that is showing. But it will show in that 16 by nine format. Other than that, the monitor weighs right at 60 pounds. It also does accept AC current from different regions. So it will go from 100 up to 240 volts and it could do 50 or 60 Hertz. It can show NTSC video formats as well as PAL video formats without any additional hardware needed. And it does have a mono audio speaker on board. That one's actually built into the bottom of this monitor, which is not a great design anyway. That's more of just a test speaker. The monitor actually points directly down. So if you don't have any extended or extension feet on the bottom of the CRT, then you won't actually get a good sound at all from this single speaker because it's just bouncing back into itself and coming back out the sides. Now some of the problems with this monitor are the fact that it was still a PVM. So there's still some plastic inside. And again, another interesting design feature is there are a lot of air holes on the sides and the top of the CRT for it to breathe. But then it's got about a two or three inch gap where it's solid along the entire bottom, just about. And so what tends to happen is this one, for example, is from 2002 or 2004. So after 16 or 17 years and it never getting any servicing, dust will get into these openings. It will land on parts in the board and eventually it builds up so bad in this particular monitor just because there's no way for that dust really to get up and out unless you clean it out and open the shell and get it off and clean it out. Let's go ahead and turn it off. And I'm gonna show you the proper way to tear this down so that you don't waste a lot of time or risk damaging parts that are very hard to replace on the shell of the monitor, which is a very common thing and a mistake to do. So let's go ahead now, we'll start tear it down and we'll look inside and see exactly what it looks like inside of this one because I've not even opened this one myself yet. A couple of quick notes here before we completely shut everything off. So whatever video format you're putting into the monitor, it'll automatically switch to that. For example, right now the Xbox main menu is actually in 480i. So if I put a game in and load it up, it should automatically kick into a higher resolution if the game supports it. So a lot of the games automatically should kick right into 480p and the monitor should click off in a second after the loading screen or it sounds like it clicks off but it just jumps up to 480p, 60p. So just so you know that it will automatically change over into those formats, there's nothing you have to do to the monitor itself. One more thing, if I turn everything off to the monitor and I pull up the menu, depending on what the format I just put into the monitor, that's what the menu can come out in. So the monitor still, it might be in 480p mode because the menu looks a lot more stable but sometimes it'll be in 480i and what happens then is sometimes it'll get flickery and jump around a little bit. That is completely normal. Do not overreact and worry if your monitor does jump around a bit on the service menu because again, if it's in 240p, it'll try to jump back to 480i or 480p. I can't tell exactly what the menu's trying to do specifically but it doesn't wanna be in 240p on this monitor so it tries to jump into the other one so it'll flicker a lot but you can still look at it, use it and read it and then when you put your signal back into it it should have correct itself so if you pull the menu up with the signal actually on it shouldn't be as jumpy. All right, let's go ahead now and tear down our monitor. You're looking at the backside of the PVM and really to tear it down initially we're only gonna need one tool and that is a simple Phillips head screwdriver like the one I have here and another thing that you might wanna have is some kind of container or something that you can keep the screws in here. I like these containers, these are just for fishing but they have a lot of compartments in them so I can separate the screws into each compartment that way I'll remember which ones to put in which compartment. Now one of the most common mistakes when disassembling this monitor and really any PVM or PVM that's in this style it's really only PVMs for the most part there are a couple that are PVMs that are designed like this but you'll notice that each one of the sides of the shell where the shell on the top, the metal meets the plastic there are these plastic rivets. Now these plastic rivets are very pesky. You can actually safely remove them if you could split them in half. You'll notice there's a way to split them in half and you pull it slightly you don't pull it all the way out but I've shown that before sometimes and I've had to clean monitors but the problem with doing that is these tend to snap because again they're 16 to 20 year old plastic and unfortunately these are pretty unique and it's very difficult. I've never found an actual good replacement for it that wasn't an original stock product so you'll have to go find it from another PVM more than likely if you break yours. So 99.9% of the time we don't even need to mess with these rivets at all especially if we're getting in here and we're gonna do something with the PVM for adjustment. If you look at the sides of these monitors you'll notice that there are three chrome screws on each side on the major part of the shell we're not worried about the bottom one down here on this little plate because that's not important but what we can do is go ahead and take these chrome screws out. So there's three on this side and then there is no difference on these three screws and then the three screws on the other side so all six of these screws are the same so you don't need to worry about saving them for any reason and not having to put them in with the others where some of these other screws will be different sizes on the back plate you'll see that the second but this is a standard design for these 20 inch monitors just almost all of them had these six chrome screws in them there are some other models like the 14 and 20 L2s that went a little overboard and added a couple of chrome screws to it for some reason. Now you'll notice too when you get back here now that we've removed those six screws the only thing we have to do is get the screws off the back here and they're actually labeled with arrows, there's four of them and that's it, no more. Maybe different on other monitors if you have a different size one the 14 inch may have more screws in it but not this one just four on the back and so we'll loosen those, the two over here on the other side and so those actually aren't different either so now that is really all the screws that we need to remove here and what we can do now is remove the shell. Now normally you should stand behind where I'm at where your camera view is but to try to make this easier to see I will stand on this side and work on this thing. Just trying to wiggle it loose again who knows when the last time this was even opened just pull back, back, back and then up like that and then you see we're able to leave that shell and a solid piece right here and then we don't have to worry about these rivets we can leave it all in one solid piece like this and just put it out of the way for now and concentrate on the back of our monitor and this is great, it's gonna show you exactly what I was talking about when I mentioned the dust build up in the bottom because this plate down here while there's a lot of plastic inside of here on this monitor, this arm and piece right here is plastic and so is this piece and then there's a couple other bracers in here that are plastic as well but the main bottom is actually metal probably aluminum or something but some kind of metal and so what happens is like I described earlier dust will build up in this and there's a bunch of dust in here so I'm gonna grab this camera I'm gonna take you a little bit closer and hopefully you'll be able to see exactly what I'm talking about here might have to bring some light additional light in but if we look down there it'd be difficult to see let's see if I can get a better angle okay so if I look down in here you'll just see an enormous amount of dust and especially this corner right here because if you look down here these are some of the more important components on here these ICs, regulators they can, what happens is these can short out and I believe it has a big thing to do with the amount of dust that can just build up in here because this isn't as bad as I've seen it I've seen it a lot worse if you go back and see some of the other ones we've worked on it's definitely not the worst but at the least you need to come in here and clean this most importantly in here when you're concerned with your geometry and that's one of the things we're gonna be looking at on this monitor you're concerned with this board right here and this is your geometry block so not so much this board right here but the main board that it's attached to if you'll notice where my hand and finger are on the side there's a big heat sink with a much more regulators that generate a lot of heat here's a transformer, here's a transformer some connectors, large connectors going into the yoke and the power supply so this is gonna be generating a lot of heat in some of these areas so these are the capacitors we're gonna wanna take a look at and check but I will tell you that these are some of the highest components highest quality components available that Sony used inside this monitor for capacitors so we're gonna be better off testing these capacitors rather than just running in here especially since there's no problems right now we'll wanna run in here and test the capacitors and make sure that they're still have some life on them with some tools rather than just coming in here and doing cap kits because I've actually had monitors come out looking worse by changing the capacitors even with high quality replacements that we've ordered before but this is gonna be one of the boards we're gonna get out it could come out now so we'll go ahead now and start pulling it out we're just gonna disconnect some of these things and then there's some screws on here that we need to be mindful of but getting this out of the way is gonna free up some space where we can inspect this board and then we can also get in here and clean off some of these areas around the fly back and this heat sink too the power supply is gonna be in the middle of that monitor also so there are again quite a few connections here we're gonna disconnect a ground connection first if I get in there the good news is on this monitor we should be able to easily find where these connect back to you wanna be careful when doing this though because sometimes this plastic can be extremely brittle and when it is the actual brace this brace that's moving it'll start to crack and fall apart when that happens really have trouble trying to keep this board steady just working my way back and how these larger connections do have spots on them to check for for the releasing of the cable from the board I'm not sure why that one's coming this is always something you try come on really don't wanna deal with that so we're just gonna move on we'll try to get this out of this frame before we do something to damage it so there's a screw there should be three screws for this frame one at the top again these are just Phillips head screws and the problem as you can tell with these PVMs more than the BVMs is they're difficult to get in and work around they're not as easy to service as the counterpart would be that being the D series like a D20 D20 has got a lot more space in it and it's design is a lot more friendly for the service man so that's really appreciated I'm sure by Sony Techs and if you're getting one and you start working on it you realize just how much more user friendly or service friendly those BVMs can be again I'm not sure why but this connection I mean it's being so stubborn I'm gonna take it from the top it comes off the top of the yoke over here just unplugging it there I don't know why it's just giving me so much trouble I don't wanna don't really need to worry about my goodness we're just gonna leave it in there we don't need to worry about it there's not even a component that we'll be testing so just leave it in there but that's unusual I never really see him stick like that all right so that's as far as we're gonna get into the monitor in today's video it's needing a thorough cleaning cause there's quite a bit of dust and just nastiness built up inside of it so after this we're gonna clean it off a little bit more and then we'll do some testing on the components on this board we'll also look at the main board we'll need to remove it so there'll be more tear down in the next video but the more important thing was making sure that you guys can get the shell off your monitor without doing the unnecessary removal of those rivets on the shell that'll save you some headache and some time so just do it like that if you need to get inside your PVM for the rest of the video though I wanna show you how much dust is in here so I'll let you just see a close camera view of that and then look for our servicing videos to come on the boards inside this monitor I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content Hey everybody welcome back today we're still working on our Sony PVM20L5 that is a professional video monitor in the CRT format made by Sony this particular one was made back in 2002 and up to this point we've gotten our shell off and then we were also able to safely disassemble and remove the deflection board from our monitor but today we're gonna need to get in here and break it down even further we're gonna go ahead and clean a lot of the other circuit boards as well as this board, the neck board we're gonna clean the back of the tube up and then I've also got a little cleaning kit here that I'll show you this is very cheap from Amazon but it's just got some ESD brushes which are safe to work on a PCB like this in the past you've seen me use just some non-conductive paint brushes before but that was on older monitors that had older circuit boards these are double-sided boards with smaller components so there's a little bit more risk of some kind of static electricity damaging something on these boards so just to be safe I will be using this kit today and so now let's just go ahead we're gonna take and pull our cameras in real close and we'll start tearing this thing down and get going with our cleaning process all right we're gonna work our way from this side over meaning the next piece I'm gonna remove is just this bracket, this plastic bracket there's a daughter board to the D board on the backside so I'll leave this one connector from that board to this board and then the other cords will actually just come right on out of these holders here on the side this is just some cable management just try to make sure that you remember where these cables go and where they came from and that way you could put it back together easily otherwise you'll confuse yourself if you don't at least take some pictures of what the setup is in here beforehand and that way when you're putting it back together you can double check with your original photos and see that you've done the right this assembly and reassembly especially for a lot of these cables and it should just fit in one spot only on the boards but just to be safe so once we've got every cable disconnected should just be a little screw right here on this side and this plastic surprisingly on this monitor is in great condition normally this could be quite brittle from the heat an environment that these monitors are used to being in the high heat tends to make these plastic parts just extremely brittle now you wanna be careful too cause you've got an epoxy wedge here behind it so it's kind of gonna work it around just a little bit to work it off of there so what's happening is the backside of this right here was getting caught on our rubber pad but that's the line nose up so we can get this out of the way this is our neck board is right here and if you look right in here where my finger is there's a plastic holder in here and this one has snapped this one this bracket always falls apart I've never seen it last so if you get in here and just like that this plastic pieces are broken don't worry about it it's not structurally important monitor will work fine without it but just note that so rather than attempting to unscrew that some more see if we can get our neck board off yeah see this arm on this side is broken also just leaves this one side and I'm sure that if the other two are broken of course it's not broken okay so just go ahead and get our screwdriver so again we're coming in kind of over the top of this section and then on this ring that's closest to the neck board we'll just loosen it up there it's loose and what should happen so there we go it's like I said it's broken right there so don't concern yourself if this actually does fall apart again this is very common it's just a kind of an extra thing they added later on but don't damage anything past this that all is important because that's your convergence and other yoke ring adjustments so just to keep the balance of the tube the same just going to tighten that right back on there and now we can get this neck board out of the way so just disconnect the connections from where the wires are coming in and the neck board if you want and you're not comfortable actually taking the neck board up fully apart which I don't blame you it can be tricky and you can you know better to be safe on any of this than actually sorry so I'll show you in a second that you can just leave what we've got here this is the rest of our setup we can leave this like this and that comes and attaches to our fly back or you know this plastic piece can split in half this part we can take that and pull that apart in half and then get the neck board off by itself the problem with that is sometimes again when you're dealing with these old plastic pieces you're putting stress on it and if it doesn't go back together you're going to be in some big trouble because that's a pretty difficult part to get so for this job I'm actually going to leave that and pull that with the main chassis after we get the rest of this out that way we don't damage it any so the next thing we're going to move on to is now that we've got some room we need to kind of get this input or our real input board out of the way down towards the bottom if you notice a lot of cables that go into the board itself so we're going to make sure that again we know how these cables are set up that way when we reassemble our monitor we'll do it correctly but these all come from this other side which is the board that we have not touched over next to this expansion slot right here that's where all these cables lead over to the expansion bay so what we can do now is start taking the screws off on this but we've got a lot of ground connections and then we should just be able to slip this out of the way the first screw is attaching our bracket right here this is attaching our input board to our expansion slot so let's get that screw out of the way now to get this out it's a little bit different the bracket has screws down here on the side that need to be removed it's two black screws and that should be just about all that's holding this bracket on this side in so again we want this one to come this whole setup right here needs to come out so we've got our screws out and I'm just pushing it back because it's hooked into the bottom of the frame just a little bit and I'll show you those in a second there's going to be cables attached to this that we're going to have to kind of pull away for a second just a bundle there let's swing this around so you can see what I've got here is a connection right here they can come loose that's most likely to our tally light and then I've got a couple other cable bundles I'm not sure sometimes you've got to decide whether you're going to take it from the main board or if you're going to just leave the cables here which I'd prefer to not unplug more than I have to but I do need to isolate this board a bit and get it out got to be careful and take these connections just don't try not to be too forceful give it a little wiggle there's not a crimp on it or anything but you don't want to pull it too hard and damage pull a pin out or something so take your time that's kind of interesting I'm going to take that it comes off of there very last cable holding our main card here in place we've got that connection on the back side so there's all that there and there and then we've got these on this other daughter board here and then that's it for that board so now we've got our other bracket out of the way it's actually holding it so we've got that and there's the plug I was talking about so that's all good knowing that other there we go so just getting caught there's our input board yeah that's just about everything leaving us with just our main board and put our neck board which we left assembled together right here we've got a screw and I see a screw behind the flyback which I will not be able to show you but it is there it's difficult to see but maybe with this overhead camera view you can get a little bit of a glimpse of where I'm actually trying to get into and that's right down here and it looks like this screwdriver is not going to be able to get down in there so I'm going to have to get a different screwdriver to get that actually out of there and I do have a shorter screwdriver still a Philips head screw but that other screwdriver is just too big so ooh what a screw goodness here now I need to make sure that I've got all the screws out before I try to yank on this thing because there probably is one more somewhere so I think the best way to tell that maybe to secure that neck board back for a second we'll lean this forward and look at the bottom is there some posts post here, post here, post here, post here, post here and post there so that should be all of them let's get set up hopefully to get this out and just there we go slide it back a little release the cables of course we need to release the cables so that should be good, get that out of there oh Sony, Sony Sony Bologna from Mr. Sony so that's all of that got some connections here that we need to just get out get out one more, one more, there we go one more in the middle just quite a few more in the middle get them loose still got two more over here alright finally we have finally broken ourselves free so that's ready to come out the only thing left is our lovely anode cap here and I'm going to discharge the anode cap the way that Sony recommends by removing the cap I'll actually be removing this cap with my hand now again this is the way Sony has to do it so if you're not comfortable doing it this way there are other ways but this way you definitely will not damage anything if you do it this way so that's loose kind of got to pinch it together against the side and then try to pull it out it doesn't always work I actually used the plastic piece on that to pinch that a little bit together you see how those could be pinched together so that it could have a current in it that anode cap could so that's easy to discharge we just tap that against the frame now our tube itself has not been discharged it could be discharged because there's a bleeder capacitor or resistor I'm sorry bleeder resistor in this it should help it self discharge it still hasn't so we're going to remove this board and then we'll come back and discharge it but thankfully finally now we can get all of the main boards just out of our way I actually forgot about one screw on this ground plate there we go now we should be able to fully get rid of all that and we can get in here now start cleaning ideas we're still back here now I'm going to set it up and actually discharge it so I've got my discharge tool it's got a little large gauge copper cable that's double insulated and then that is soldered to this alligator clip which I will clip to my metal frame and really any part on the metal frame should be okay so just make sure you get a good clip on there let's try right there we have our cable go free and then what we're going to do is that cable's twisted around the metal end of this flathead screwdriver and then electrical tapes on there essentially what it's doing is it's going to short the current if there's any in this tube it's going to short it over to the frame so don't touch the frame but if it does that then all that electricity what happens is it just dissipates in the frame spreads out and then goes away because it's what it says it's charged in that little spot but once it gets a large area to spread out on like a ground then it'll go away but as I thought it's already discharged so that's mostly what you would see on something like this is nothing not any kind of zap or anything but it's always good to be safe now let's start our cleaning things so I'm going to use t-shirt that's just cotton where it's clean so I'll be using that to wipe down a lot of the tube area and anything that needs to be wiped with cloth and then I will be using a bigger soft bristle non-conductive paint brush to get around here just because it will work much better than the hard plastic brushes that we were using on the circuit boards and we don't need to worry about an electrical shock or short or anything or like that so we're going to go ahead now and just start cleaning one thing to note is if you look at the back of the tube there are lines where you'll notice it looks like a dull shade of something is painted there actually is a paint on the back of these tubes so don't wipe that area with any kind of cleaner or anything you want that tube to remain dull that paint to stay on there but the rest of the area is safe to clean around you'll see me doing that now let's go ahead now and get started main chassis is back in and I also have installed the neck board now I didn't show you that on camera so if you need to go back and watch the video at the beginning on disassembling on how to put it back together you should probably do that it was just too difficult for me I had to get my head basically all the way in back here and so it really would have been no view because there are numerous places to populate these plugs on this board now there's one that's left empty over here this one will go to the power input from our video input board and then so that's what I'm going to do next is I'm going to get that board installed and then the two side boards and then we'll get it in here and get it all put back together now before we go and work on the deflection board I want to reinstall the anode cap since we've cleaned off a lot of the original dielectric grease I just have some more premium dielectric grease here and uh... it doesn't need a whole lot just a dab will do ya you kind of just rub that around and that'll give that suction cup a nice spot to bond with and that there's still a lot of grease on the cap inside here so I'm not as worried about it it was more the back of the tube since we cleaned it that's going to really help eliminate the chance of any dust particles get stuck under here and it can help dampen the noise some from this flyback as it starts to age they can get louder so it's nice to put that grease on there and then I believe it does now that cap to just not deteriorate as fast as it would be if it was just dry so sure bonds good and that you're actually connected right there and then now we can go look at the rest of the pvm alright folks now we've got our monitor reassembled and I did want to tell you that if you do reassemble this there is going to be one connection point on this board up here that is not normally plugged into I noticed that when I was disassembly so just so you know if you have one empty port here that's fine the last cable that comes from that extra input board over here it connects to the deflection board so all these cables and ground cables here's the fully reassembled pvm I went ahead and put it back completely together after we cleaned it and what I want to do is I want to run tests on it to just make sure that it's still working but I wanted to show you the after and how much shinier and beautiful everything on here looks much cleaner than before you still got to clean the front a bit as far as the board cleaning and quality checks those are complete there's some of the areas that were extremely dirty before sparkling clean good example back there by the fly back and by this heat sink even the cables cleaned up nicely let's get ready and we'll run our tests so after such a rigorous cleaning it would be wise of us to go in and test things out before we get too much further into any more servicing processes so again it's fully reassembled all the wiring is properly managed within the monitor and so this would be a great time to run some quick tests just to make sure it's functioning properly now if we look at the back I want to show you I've got RGB set up and actually on this monitor it switches over to green, blue, red and then we need our sync plugged in and then our mono audio and that's run over here through RGB, SCART to our super nintendo make sure to power the monitor on first and then we'll worry about the super nintendo so everything sounds good for an initial power up power light is on you heard the initial degausing coil go no sync showing up and I know it's shaky there but I explained that in the last video about the menu if it's in 480i which it is right now it will look a little bit more jumpy than if it's in 480p so what we need to do is make sure it's set up to receive sync so again press the menu button press control on here and then you'll press the menu button go down so let's turn it to RGB component so I'm just pressing RGB component and see it says it's in component mode so let's hit enter on the right hand side enter again and then we'll press down to turn it to RGB mode press enter again and now we'll press menu once, menu twice to back out of that the next thing we need to do on the left hand side is press EXT sync which just turns on external sync so we have RGB component and external sync lit up on this side so we're ready to speed in our video and see how it looks Super Nintendo and obviously like I said we're gonna have to do a lot of geometry adjustment on here especially right to left center and sizing but our screen is working tube is looking good and if we just go real quickly here to our team EOS 240p test suite we can look at a couple of patterns this being a good one shows us all our colors now you're not gonna see it as great on the screen but we'll get plenty of before and after shots of how this is calibrated we'll run through some more adjustments and features on this particular monitor and kind of how you get into the service menu a little bit deeper and change things and then there are a couple of things on the inside that you might end up having to adjust so I'll briefly explain those in that adjustment section of the next video and show you that if it's necessary for right now we're gonna power this back down and that's going to do it for this long video alright so there you have a thorough tear down of the interior of this CRT and then we've gone and cleaned up all the circuit boards very thoroughly that's probably the most thorough cleaning job I've ever done on a circuit board and the brushes seem to perform pretty good for how cheap they were and how little that kit actually costs so if you are looking for a cheap solution to getting a good clean on your circuit boards that's definitely safe and inexpensive at about twelve dollars I would just recommend maybe trying to think about our investing in another method to get safe compressed air onto your boards without just having to use computer duster cans I do have quite a large industrial grade air compressor actually here with a filter on it so it filters out any potential water into that filter because sometimes when you use compressed air you can get moisture in there and you don't want moisture obviously in electronics so those are just some things to think about and that's a reason why there are specific tools for use on electronic circuit boards when you're using compressed air but that's going to pretty much do it for this video thanks for hanging out this long and just checking out the unbelievable design on this again it's very cramped and more compressed and it's attempting to do things on the level that a Sony BVM would do and so we obviously still have a lot to go over as far as adjustment through service menu adjustments as well as manual adjustments in the back of the monitor so that'll come in the next video and we'll also go through some of the other features as far as like buttons controlling this and we may even remove the anti-glare layer on this one because it does have a small mark on it and so I need to talk to the owner and see if he wants us to remove that and I've also got another small upgrade idea for this one that I've talked about before that will actually give it kind of a little extra boost and we'll talk about that in the next video too and hopefully kind of wrap things up on this if possible but I'm not promising that it will take at least one maybe two more videos to completely give all the attention that we need to so that you guys can know everything you want to about the Sony PVM 20L5 without actually having to go in and read the 200 page manual that Sony has on this although I do recommend checking out that manual and I will have a link to that in this description for this video but hey thanks again for joining me today I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content Hey everyone welcome back to Retro Tech we're still deep into our Sony PVM 20L5 series and prior to this you've seen me tear this one down clean everything internally and then put the monitor back together and we ran some initial testing and some different smaller testing in the last video however today we're going to really get into it and we're going to run through a lot of tests we're going to test all the different inputs we're going to test the different resolutions that this monitor can handle and see really how it does in the performance end now before we do that though we're going to get inside the back of the CRT one last time and we'll look at a lot of the internal adjustments that can still be made on this monitor now there are mostly service menu adjustments to be made on this monitor but they still do have some potentiometers and other things that you may need to adjust and especially if you need anything done with your convergence you'll have to get in the back of the monitor more than likely so we'll do a quick run through that and then we'll put the shell back on and then we're going to actually remove the anti-glare protective layer on the screen because the owner does not want the screen layer on it anymore there's actually a mark in the layer alright so after we get done removing the anti-glare layer we'll piece it back together and we'll run all those tests and we'll even run through and adjust a couple of the calibration settings so that the geometry looks great let's go ahead now and take a look at the adjustments you can make in the back of the monitor if we look down in this area where we've got our flyback transformer assembly you notice the glob of white where my finger is and then below that is a second glob of white that white is epoxy that is holding those two potentiometer adjustment or adjustment pots on the back of that and those will help you adjust your focus so if you have a blurry screen you could try to adjust the two of those with a testing pattern on screen and sharpen up your picture if we follow our anode cap over here to our deflection yoke there are some potentiometers on top of this deflection yoke and these can be used to adjust your convergence all you need to do is stick a small screwdriver inside there and you turn each one of these if you have a problem with either corner or convergence problems along the top and like bottom of your picture screen now this one doesn't need an adjustment so we won't be doing that but before let's say if you wanted to go back here on this one these rings will adjust your actual full-on convergence that would probably be the last thing you want to try to adjust if you had to first you most likely want to adjust this potentiometer right here which is your H stat or your main convergence adjustment so you want to try to start with that one and clear up the majority of your convergence and if you still have issues secondary you can adjust here and then finally for the ultimate precision you can manually adjust your yoke rings I said this one doesn't need it we're not going to do it behind here is another set of rings that actually adjusts screen purity so if you have any problems where you think that your purity isn't right on your screen first try to degauss it but that's how you adjust screen purity there are some potentiometers on the neck board other than that H stat you'll notice one right down here we'll look at that one from the other side but there are also three potentiometers here which I couldn't actually find any explanation in the service manual on what the adjustment would need to be done with those I'm going to assume there's some kind of color drives since they're on the neck board here and there's three of them but I've never had to make an adjustment to those potentiometers so I don't know when you would actually need to but if anybody has any experience with them please leave that in the comments below okay here's the back of our neck board and again this is the H stat over here and this is the underside of that other potentiometer that we noticed from the other side where you can get to it back here with a screwdriver again and it's safer to adjust from the back that's going to be your screen brightness or your G2 you see how it's broken off on this you can actually see it's labeled where my finger is it says G2 that feeds up into here and the potentiometer adjusts that G2 voltage so if you have a weak tube you can try to increase that but let's say increase the G2 voltage so screen brightness that used to be called a screen pot that for the most part is going to cover everything that you'd probably ever adjust back here the only other thing you may need to do is adjust the actual landing of the yoke itself so if you need to do that you first have to loosen this yoke ring and then wiggle this to break it free from the RTV silicone that's holding it in place to the tube and then to the wedges and then you'll be able to manipulate this deflection yoke whether you need to move it on its axis or whether it's leaning up or down so thankfully this one doesn't have any issues with any of that but that is how you do that if that adjustment is needed you know an upgrade to this PVM and that's just going to require me to flip it on its side here for one second and then we're actually going to be installing these anti-vibration feet which will give it a little more clearance and let it sit up a little higher that'll give it you know three quarters of an inch to an inch in height almost and the the benefit of this is you're going to allow couple things to happen so before we didn't have these installed a lot of dust that would get in the bottom of here it can escape through this vent or any of these holes when it's sitting directly on a desk or if it would have been sitting on something else that was flat we're freeing that up and also allowing for heat to dissipate through that and air flow to come in and out of there we've also got a clear path now for our mono speaker we'll be able to hear that a lot better too by freeing up a path for those sound waves to escape there's that speaker that's pretty much it just four screws and then now we're sitting up pretty and then next we can get started on removing the screws here and here and then likewise two others on this side and we'll pull our whole bezel frame here forward and over kind of sitting it on top here we're getting ready to remove the screen bezel now and I've already gone ahead and removed the four Phillips head screws on the side doing so caused this to become extremely loose that made the tally light right here fall so that's perfectly fine if we just wiggle it should pull out and the reason we want to flip it up is to try to give the cable some space so that we can work on that not damage anything because there's cables attached inside here and there's our gash in it down here which we showed earlier try to get it closer look at that if possible yes so here's that scuff mark it's pretty long a lot of this was hidden right up next to the bezel well that's the little scuff and so I confirmed it with the owner that he wants this layer gone again so he can clean it with a normal cleaner and have that gash gone all the way so what I'm going to do is I'm just going to get a razor blade and slip the blade under here on this you know over scan area and it'll really just peel this down and one clean layer and then we'll clean under it alright we're all set now to try to remove this I'm going to try to get in the center here that way I can switch between the camera views on both sides of me again I want to move this out of the way just so I don't damage it that's our tally light and again we can clean this area a little bit once this layer is gone I don't really want to mess anymore with the bezel so we're going to keep it in that position the tools I'll be using are just a exacto knife just a standard exacto knife with a blade on it and then I've got a pair of squeaky needle nose pliers and let's just see how this happens because it does go a little bit different each time one more thing to warn you about this button over here you don't want to damage it it's good to take it off and set it aside and watch for this arm because it's plastic and it can break and then you'll have a difficult time turning your pvm on and off so set that aside I'm going to try the opposite side just so I don't mess with anything on that really near that the point's not really to slice down okay the point is to get in behind the layer and kind of wiggle the blade you don't want it to split you want it to stay solid and you don't want to touch the tube you want to try to get the layer just kind of push it out away from the glass you see that that's our goal to do that and slowly keep all that together so we did get a little piece here we want to make sure that the whole thing stays together because if not that will be a pain you may not need the pliers just depends sometimes this adhesive is very difficult to get off well you see we've got it started and it's just pressure pulling down towards the bottom here's the button see we've got a little trigger down there some of the glue got stuck that was by far the most difficult the most difficult one I've ever had to pull off it was easier to start but man it got it was definitely stuck on there I'm just going to clean up this area with some cleaner and then we'll be ready to put the bezel back bezel back up and we're ready to screw back into place and we'll give it a quick test when you reinstall your bezel screws pay attention that you need to put these in the second screw holes so not the top screw hole or the bottom screw hole do it to like ninety percent of the way and then alternate sides on where you install them improper pressure on the plastic we go too much further after this I'm going to run a test just to make sure I don't need to take it all apart put it back together far so good let's make sure that the buttons on both sides actually respond and yes they're doing what they're supposed to okay perfect alright so we got this anti-glare layer off and if you have this 20L5 or maybe a 14L5 or even other BVMs you might have one of these layers on your tube this one did have a little scuff in it I showed you before so now that's gone and we could get rid of this because this is pretty much useless at this point you'll never be able to reuse it and I don't think anybody could ever put a new anti-glare layer back on a tube like this I think you'd be wasting your time now one of the good things about it getting rid of that layer is the the glass on this is clear and what I mean by that is you really get a good picture when you're using it we'll see that in a second I mean it is extraordinarily clear I wish I could think of a perfect word for how to describe it it's so clear maybe I could get my friend Tom to help me out what do you think Tom? crystal oh yeah crystal crystal crystal clear perfect description hey that certainly was a lot of fun a little bit interesting to see that anti-glare layer come off like that and my good friends you know helping me out there at the end it's always nice to know some you know famous people once you once you reach that plateau of ten thousand subscribers on YouTube the celebrities really start jumping at you hey in all seriousness I'm just kidding we do have one more episode on this 20L5 to show you we're going to run it through every kind of little tests we can think of we're going to test every input every resolution on it and then even the slot and option bay we're going to install some cards and see how that works and hopefully maybe then we could finally move on to some of these other great CRTs and things I've got play head because I've got some good stuff coming like this little beautiful nine inch kv right here and much more thanks again for watching guys I'll see you next time with some more retro content crystal alright well we finally have come to what needs to be the last episode on the L5 at least for a while today's episode is all about the adjustments you can make through the service menu at least the majority of the ones you should be worried about for things like a little bit of color change as well as mostly your geometry and before we do that because I have a feeling that if I just went straight into the calibration section that it would get pretty boring and a lot of people may turn off the video just after two or three minutes of me talking about the menus so instead of starting with that we're going to start with all the testing I did as far as changing resolutions trying different inputs and going all the way from 240p to 480i to 720p to 1080i on the 20L5 and then to see what it looks like what happens how quick it changes between resolutions if there's anything you need to know about it to make it properly do that you'll find that out today so again first off we're going to go through and show all the cool testing and then I will timestamp the video or as I say put a nice section of timestamps in the description of the video where I'll have the different points where you can jump in if you want to come back and later watch the calibration section or again if you want to know just about the adjustments and everything there is to know you can watch the entire video and stick around to the end for my final thoughts on it let's go ahead now and start the testing off with some analog video we're ready to start testing now and one of the first things I'd like to test is all the inputs and outputs on the 20L5 and so we've got the inputs we've got the Superditz Edo input into RGB right now so first we're going to run through the 240p gamut of testing through and just to make sure a signal passes through each input and then something comes out of the output side outputs are all run into the 14L5 here so right off the bat we know that RGB is working and what we can do is if you look behind me you can see just the massive amount of wiring that we've got set up here I do have a multi out that will allow me to quickly change from what you see now as RGB into another input so let's go ahead and put that in since we know RGB is working and then I can come around here and we can change the input let's press line A so line A is working and line A is working there now line A is using S video and so that appears to be working fine and then next we'll move to the composite input which is line B just right under that signal for B now there we go line B so that's composite input now you can use the 240p test suite which we'll show you right now you can use the 240p test suite to quickly jump between resolutions which actually is quite helpful so this is harder to see and what it does is it goes from 240p hit that button it's 480i right now it doesn't stay in 480i when you back out of it but it does show you how 480i would be rendered through composite well now we can test the other inputs and other resolutions so I've got my PlayStation 2 hooked up through Component and it's daisy-chained over to the 14.0.5.2 but just so you know the menu right here is 480i so we know 480i is working I've got Gran Turismo 4 in here to test real quick because this game should give us ability to go up to like 1080i if I could remember correctly okay yeah so this will go first off we know 480p will work but we can switch over that pretty easily staying 4 by 3 which is see there it goes 480p and so we know that works we'll go back now we're back at 480i if we go down here to 1080i that 1080 60i now our tubes have shrunk down in resolution so they shouldn't even be nearly as sharp alright here we go see we're dropping down into 1080i component 1080i we've got our lines across the top of our screen so that like I said is going to be there same thing you might notice something at the bottom and sometimes you might have an insert put in here that blocks that out and just clips on the front there's little slots on it it just sets in there but it will work for 1080i I mean I don't think it looks that great in 1080i wow so I mean it looks blurry I don't really know why anybody would want to use it for this but it can do it I think you're going to be better off if you're going to try to use one of these high definition resolutions going to 720p which we could show off on an Xbox game I'm not really sure if there are any PlayStation games that go 720p okay we're going to go back now into our screen settings and this time we're going to go back to 4 by 3 we're going to remain in progressive mode this time on 480p take advantage of the whole screen here obviously this is pretty much perfect for this monitor 480p 480i and 240p it's nice to be able to take advantage of this 480p mode though oh this color is slow before we put the PlayStation 2 up I'd like to show you one thing that is that a gun con will work on this monitor or any light gun really you see me A and B button light guns do work on the 20.05 and pretty much any CRT that's not flat and high definition only style our last resolution we want to look at is just component 720p this is freedom fighters on the original Xbox and this will do 720p natively right out of the box it switches right to it you're getting the same thing though with the shortened screen what I will tell you is that the progressive image coming from the Xbox compared to say the PlayStation 2 it's just the Xbox's image quality is far superior through component but it works doesn't look great because you're again condensing your screen size that's all the resolutions let's take a look at some of the features and controls on the pvm l5 series now first thing I want to show is the brightness controls for your LED buttons now the first thing you can try to do is if you press control and these appear to be fine we can actually see different buttons but if you cannot see them or they appear really dim what you could do is locate the up and down button right here and then we're going to press control and have no buttons on the screen and if we start to press for example up see how it brightens up that's how you control the brightness but if you could tone it down if it's too bright you can do it like that but that's how you get that brightness to tune up is just make the control off and then you press up or down and that controls the brightness of your buttons we are using RGB for this test that means we have RGB slash component selected here we have external sync in use on this side on the left there are some other things over here that we will not be using but the most important thing other than your inputs down here would be something like your degauss button and your reset button and then most of the other things we're going to deal with are going to be on the right hand side now on the right hand side we have volume up and down, contrast up and down, phase chroma and brightness up and down so that's our five up and down meters then we have a menu button and then we have the word up and the word down and enter once we've pressed menu and we have our status screen pulled up it will tell us what format we are in RGB what our screen resolution is now this and every other pvm will not say 240p it will say 480i our color temperature is D65 so if you want to change that to a different color temperature you can change that in this main menu and then we've got some other things here we're not as concerned about if I had pressed down the first thing on this menu is the color temperature adjustment so if we went in here and we hit enter we would take us to this menu hit enter again and it will let you cycle through either the D93, the D65 or the user setting which you can copy from the D65 and the D95 and then you can use these adjust gain and bias to tweak that color if you want to have it be slightly different than what the built in color palettes are the back out of any menu you just press the menu button go down again this is where we would select our inputs at the top we've got RGB or component so pressing enter and pressing enter on here which will light up our RGB we change that that's how we change to component or RGB must be on this briefcase and then over here on this selector the rest of this stuff is not a concern if you need to change obviously your language you could do so here the rest of the settings we want to get into are in the sub menu or the service menu to access that we need to have this menu pulled up and then we should be able to hit our digaus and enter button at the same time one on each side and as we do that brings us to the sub menu or the service menu we're going to be concerned mostly with our geometry and our horizontal and vertical geometry for the most part everything else is in good condition on this but we'll walk through that in a minute but this is how you get into this portion for example most of these on this side are shortened for what the menu is this right here is the deflection that's going to be where you're going to find your geometry settings so if you go down to deflection and you go to focus there is some things on here that if you need to change any of these I highly suggest you consult the service manual that is not an adjustment you should need to make most of the time you can make a manual focus internally on the flyback if needed this is the screen we are looking for it will say horizontal size horizontal center and horizontal position and markers and the black section for each side that's one that we are very interested in and if we go down we'll have the same kind of settings for our verticals and then finally the geometry setting this is where you're going to adjust your linearity your pin cushion and then your screen lean uh... your tilts anything that is a screen bow stuff like that or any kind of curves along the sides can be adjusted by this menu I would highly suggest again that you review the manual it gives you a picture of what each one of these exact adjustments does and how you might want to make the adjustment on it or what exactly to look for on your screen and and if you have a certain problem which one of these controls will adjust and maybe help you adjust that I will have a link to the full manual below and that is going to do it for most of important stuff that we need the rest of the things in this menu are important but they're not really things that you need to concern yourself with for ninety nine percent of the people out there these are factory settings and if you want to know more about them definitely refer to the manual but the main thing in this menu you're going to want to be concentrating on is this deflection menu now once you've got your settings changed in here you can press menu and then you get your back out to just the main menu and you should be able to press the goss enter again and it will go away and if you press menu there it is okay you're out of it you're back in the regular menu we're going to make some adjustments here on this tube using some of the grids here from the 240p test patterns sweet it is adjustment time and this is the second page on md4ya's 240p test suite the best calibration test suite that you can find for a CRT especially since it's free and it's for video games this has a lot of built-in test patterns most of these are going to be either show us things about our color and our screen geometry and also things like sharpness and we'll look at some of the different types of menus here that you can use to judge your screen quality and make adjustments this kind of square or rectangular grid pattern is really good for telling us whether we are as far as screen centeredness so for example on here we have a gap at the bottom so this needs to come down just a little bit and then we need to expand it so we're also looking at a gap here and even a small gap here so we need to move our entire screen to the right a bit and then expand it out and we'll try to get that cleaned up and we'll make sure that if we can and there's any kind of walkiness along the edges that we'll try to make adjustments if there it's possible there is one thing that I need to warn everyone the CRTs even these high-end ones like this they were never guaranteed to give you one hundred percent screen perfection this is analog video still it never can get much better than probably ninety six or ninety seven percent for like a perfect look you're always going to find some little imperfection on it somewhere usually it's at a corner or at an edge just keep that in mind and try to do the best that you can but here's another grid we'll be using and we're going to start by adjusting this we're going to do as we explained earlier pull up the main menu press the gauss and enter into our submenu go down to deflection hit enter we'll start horizontally and we need to move some to the right we're on eighty five so to write this we will hit enter and it saves it now in here if you didn't want to write it you could just press menu and back back out and it'll go jump back to whatever is written in it right now the next thing we want to do is try to expand it let's try some size adjustment you can use both the horizontal position and the horizontal center to tweak that exact center point you want to set and right now my goal is to push all these red lines up to the edge and then after that we'll expand a bit further but I first want to get everything to the edge we've done that with with every corner well three of the four corners this corner is here I can see it now we're going to move to vertical adjustment increase the size bring it down some that looks way better but that's how you run through the vertical horizontal sizing and then after that you'll want to get in and check out your other settings such as the geometry and that's where you could do a linearity adjustment with the top two or these are all right here are screen tilting and and pin cushion controls that's what this one down to here this one are all those three those six settings that's a quick look at the setting numbers we have in here right now and then if I go back I'll show you the others so you can get an idea where we're starting from and then once I make my adjustments I'll come back and show you these numbers again at the end we'll see how the screen looks let's run through the final calibration settings here we've got our scroll pattern going right now so you can tell it looks very nice I want to pull up the other test patterns starting with our grid pattern here you'll notice I did go about one or two scan lines over the over scan line which was the red border on this screen so I try to push that red border again about one to two scan lines on each end out so that you don't see it when you play the game you want to have a slight over scan and then if I go to that screen it's just got a larger vertical orientation so it's going to show you more of a vertical over scan that's not a very common resolution other thing to look at is our linearity screen and then our grid on top of our linearity but our circles are very round and nicely centered and our convergence looks wonderful the last thing I wanted to show you were the settings on our deflection I go and start with our horizontal settings these are the horizontal settings for all of the settings on this monitor and again this is to refer to if you need assistance and a guide to maybe somewhere to start with on yours you could probably use these numbers and tweak them some to get maybe a better image on your monitor if you want to try it here's our vertical settings and then finally I'll show you the geometry settings so some of those did need to be adjusted and again at the end of the day we've got probably about ninety five percent to ninety six percent if I had to give it my score which is really high alright we've got just one more thing to cover on the twenty oh five and really all the L5s and even L2s and that's the option slot in the back where you do have the ability to add one of these great Sony BKM input option cards and there's obviously a bunch of them for this particular model this is the full set of them we've got a couple that do SDI and digital SDI and then this is the BKM 129X which is the most popular because it's the analog video card that gives you both component and RGB input and then there's also a composite as video input and then there's even been some reproduction cards it's open source by my friend scumlos he has designed some really nice options if you want to make your own card and then there's of course this big boy which is the HDSDI module which has a fan in it and it's very noisy and this is the reason the slot looks to be big enough to fit two cards in it the rest these cards are just one card thickness half as thick as this but this one's two card thick and it's the reason that it's wider so we can slide in there and attach to the board through this pin and so there's not a spot to put two it looks like you could fit two in there but if you look in there there's only one side that has a port and it was made double wide for this board which is again the BKM 142 HD so if you do need an extra input there are options for this monitor and that's how that works sometimes they'll have these nice slot covers the way you install one of these cars is very simple we'll just take the BKM 127W for example this card has a path to slide on and you just push it in give it a click and then tighten the top and bottom screws that are attached to the plate and just hand tighten them don't make them overly tightened because then you might need to get them out and it changed to a new card and let's turn the screen on and see how that looks it should pull up our information on our card right away after installing it and they don't want to install that card with your PVM powered on you want to wait till it's nice and powered off we'll give it a second to turn on here it's coming up we'll go to control menu we should be able to go down here to our options and it should tell us what is in that option okay here's our option I had to change cards apparently this one maybe it's not reading correctly it is B stock so I've never actually tested it this one does say 129X it's been installed with the power off so if I go down here and I go in my main menu to this it'll tell me what that is the serial number and everything and if I go to option A it should give me the ability to set that RGB components the lecture on there too so that's pretty much how you set that up pretty simple you don't have to do anything to the software it just will read it automatically if your card works well that certainly was fun wasn't it we have just finished completely refurbing this Sony PVM 20L5 now you could get in and replace capacitors but the warning that I have is that this one can be very picky so unless you really have an issue or you're a really experienced technician then you shouldn't probably worry about the capacitor component change I like to just go in and clean up this PVM primarily maybe five to ten years from now once they start to get some serious age on them then we can revisit the idea of just recapping one that is working fine if you're concerned at that point but right now since these are still in the early to mid 2000 range they should have plenty of life still on some of these capacitors if there's not a whole lot of usage on them because the parts that Sony specifically used in this are going to be way better and higher quality more likely than the ones you or I are going to be able to find second hand on the market especially this year in 2021 alright guys let me know what you think with a comment below I certainly did have a lot of fun working on this one but I'm ready to move on to a new project and we will see what that is coming soon but for today thanks again for watching I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content hey welcome back to the CRT bunker and today I want to talk about a fun topic that is poor repair work or poor service work that you may solicit for one of your CRTs specifically one of the higher end PVMs today we're going to be featuring the Sony PVM-20 L5 which is one of the most sought after CRTs left especially due to its multi format features and the fact that it's a high quality Trinitron but before we get to that I'd like to tell everybody how Brutus is doing I get a lot of questions about him he's doing fine he's just acting like a lazy teenager and really hasn't been getting out of bed today hasn't made his bed by 2pm and just lounge and take it easy so I kind of am a sucker for him and let him do what he wants at this point since he's 13 years old and he's hanging out comfortable and he may come and join us and visit us during this talk first off I want to talk about Sony PVM-20 L5 number one this one was brought to me from a client in New York and this one had a little bit of a track record it came from a video studio of some sorts and they solicited somebody in the New York area to service the CRT and specifically go in and do the Save on Pat cap kit which is available on eBay and documented to cover a large portion of the deflection board not the complete deflection board but anyway the monitor did work prior to it being serviced now what happened is the client got his monitor back after it was serviced and it didn't quite work right it started acting funny making a lot of noises and wouldn't sync properly you'd have some issues with startup and so he kindly asked me to take a look at his PVM for him and I did that and I gotta tell you this was one of the craziest services and awful bad experiences I could have seen from somebody who was supposedly a CRT technician that worked on this 20 L5 and what this person had done was they had done the cap kit on the deflection board however they did not do it correctly they did damage a lot of pads and didn't do a great job of cleaning the board they didn't stick their capacitors all the way down against the board when they replaced them and that was the biggest problem with the whole monitor what had happened was is and I found this out by opening it up and inspecting inside one of the capacitors that was in the kit had not been pushed all the way down against the circuit board and the capacitor actually touched legs with another capacitor which was a film solid capacitor it's not normally this color inside the monitor they are blue but this was the replacement capacitor anyway those two capacitors touched the monitor was powered on and there was a surge of electricity that caused the film capacitor to just explode and it was that that caused a lot of the issues now the tech also went in and did some strange things to the neck board and really things that didn't make sense like desoldered points and left them with no current going to them so I'm not really sure what this person was doing it looked like they did have some competence in electronics but I'm really not sure what they were trying to accomplish now thankfully I was able to see that issue and it didn't really cause any major damages because that kind of a surge could have fried out a really important unique chip or something that would have maybe damaged the monitor forever and turned it into just a parts monitor but thankfully all I had to do was go in and replace that single film capacitor and then I went back and I undid all the work that that other tech had done and I guess it's not even fair for me to call them a tech but that other person had done I undid all their work, cleaned up the board and removed all the old solder, all the old caps and then installed the cap kit again with better caps and ran a lot of tests and it was working and we got it back to I'd say like 95% so that was the first instance where I had seen actually a film capacitor fail but also an instance where bad service work caused all the damage in that thing and that would have been terrible if that PVM would have been destroyed just because of that one instance now our second story involves this specific Sony PVM-20L5 and this one was sold to another client of mine and it was specifically sold as being serviced so what I want to do now is I'm going to show you how we're going to check out if this is being actually serviced or not and what you can look for in signs that if you're sold or told that a CRT has been serviced you can check for some of these things and help you determine whether it's actually been serviced so let's go ahead now and take a look inside the Sony PVM-20L5 multi-format CRT monitor as we inspect inside our Sony PVM-20L5 just please note the shell has already been removed the first thing over here on our left-hand side of the monitor is our deflection board and it is secured by this plastic brace that does often crack over time thankfully this one is in good shape and it's quite dusty there's a lot of dust built up on there and also there's just a thin layer of it pretty much on everything especially that board there again check out the heat sink on the major major board down there get a lot of build up there but anyway back to the deflection board this customer did say that the deflection board was serviced and recapped he thought from the person he got this monitor from but if we look in here these parts are part of that cap kit over here and they all look like they've not been changed since they were installed by the factory so we can verify that by getting this board out and looking at the backside and seeing if that solder has been changed from factory it should be noticeable even a little bit if it has been changed but a lot of these caps in side of here just from my experience do look like they were factory caps and they do resemble those same capacitors now maybe some of them have been changed we'll find out there's also this I see right here on this larger heat sink that it may have been changed for some reason and because it looks slightly different than the others you can tell there were the thermal paste just looks a little bit different that's a sign that maybe some work has been done if you look at the main boards down here this is our fly back on our monitor there is just again just a lot of dust so I'm I'm thinking the odds of this actually been serviced or not that high now the good thing is is there's not any evidence of any damage or anything but it's due for at least a cleaning and possibly cap work so that's just down inside from that angle here's the neck board same kind of deal it doesn't look like really anything's been done to the neck board which is a good thing then we have our input board and over here is our card slot right now there is a sdi card reader digital in there along with a spacer plate or cover plate over the second portion of that slot cover just a lot of normal dust that you'd see inside of here it's not like an obscene amount of dust but a good enough layer where again if someone would have serviced this some of this dust would have at least been cleaned off in the process of them removing the boards and normally if somebody services something they should clean it out at least somewhat so that's kind of the inspection back here but um now I'm going to have to get in here clean it up and we'll remove this deflection board and inspect it a little closer our deflection board is removed right here let's take a look and see if anything looks like it's actually been changed out again on the top side of the board it's it's difficult to tell because if somebody did a good job servicing it then looking from the top you shouldn't easily be able to tell whether it's been done however if you flip the board over and we look closer at some of the joints and pads and solder points on here we should be able to notice pretty pretty simply if some real work has actually been done here but first off if we look around the other side of the heat sink this is and these are those ICs and transistors and these look like they were factory installed the solder does not look changed but over here this is the one that possibly was installed at a different time that we had talked about based on the evidence looking at from that side let's see if we can determine anything like maybe it still looks like it's something that was done in a factory almost so maybe it was maybe it wasn't so let's look over here now at some of the capacitors that are in this kit for example i know that this capacitor right here would be in the kit 2515 2514 i believe those are in this kit and even 2535 and every one of these solder points looks just the same as like those look the same as every other point on here which is again showing me that these are factory installed and probably not changed out at any point it's just some dirt and so the odds of them actually being changed out are pretty low it doesn't really look like anything has been ever serviced on this one the customer decided they wanted to have the cap kit and the servicing done to the main deflection board here so that has been completed now this is the board after the capacitors have been replaced and then it was cleaned and it is almost ready to stick back into the frame with the rest of the monitor and we'll give it a test look over here here's the old capacitors from the capacitor kit and the new ones and upgrade parts are all in there this main deflection board and the daughter board they've been reinstalled over here and i've double and triple checked all the cabling and make sure it's right and then i've got s-video ready to go in line a ac power ready to go in line a and all i need to do is turn on this search protector let's try it okay we want to go to line a might have an issue where this maybe this doesn't output s-video there we go so i don't know what's going on my some of my test consoles are taking a minute there to turn on but the n64 is working now i want you to see what a monitor should look like if it's been serviced notice up here we don't really see much of any dirt or soot it's really easy to clean some of these areas and it makes a big difference another area to take a look at is our yoke assembly here and you can tell it's a lot cleaner so is our neck and then our neck board and we've got all that dust cleaned out and all that soot that's been built up on these cables has been cleaned out there is the back of the neck board and all the loose plastic if there was any has been removed and then everything is very shiny down here it's not spotless but it's pretty close to that now that's just what i would consider if i had opened this monitor and seen it look like this and that would have been a completely different answer for the client i would have told him yes absolutely it looks like it's been serviced and it's good to go but now it has been serviced and it is ready for a long-term use all right so Brutus i think he's ready let's get the shell on this thing and take one last look at it finished up all right so it looks like this one may have been serviced and i'll tell you what i found out i did remove the bezel and i saw that the anti-glare screen layer was removed on this tube and that is technically servicing it if there was a scratch on that screen or some kind of reason to remove that that's really all i could find that was actually serviced you saw inside i noticed a lot of dust and debris buildup that is very much specific to a crt sitting there for a long time and just having dust kind of slowly build up onto all the components in almost a gradual and consistent manner but yeah this one definitely was not serviced internally we went ahead and recapped it with that deflection board cap kit and it's been fully serviced for things like convergence and geometry and checks for every input everything else has been checked out great on this crt and this one is a bit of a better situation where you thought maybe somebody had serviced it it turns out they hadn't and the monitor turns out to be in really really good condition to begin with so it's actually kind of a blessing that it wasn't serviced as opposed to the first story where it was it serviced improperly and nearly damaged permanently so that'll be it for today's wonderful videos on these amazing crts please tell me what you thought with a comment below and if you have any questions please remember to go out and check out my podcast with louis from zez retro we do a podcast every week and that's really the opportunity that i offer for the public and viewers like you to offer questions that i can go into detail with louis just go check out our podcast on the zez retro channel and drop a comment on the most recent podcast we have there and louis will ask me that question in an upcoming episode but thanks again for watching today everybody i'll see you next time with some more retro content hey everybody we are back today in the bunker and i have a crt with me we're going to be doing a repair hopefully on one of the most desirable sony pvm's ever made that is the pvm 20l5 multi format crt now this is the 19 inch display crt that does everything from 240p all the way up to 1080i it is a four by three tube trinitron now unfortunately this one does not power on properly as it sits i got a request to check out this pvm and first i'd like to show you what the actual problem is i had this video clip sent to me from the owner of the pvm and let's just take a quick look at it as you can see there's an issue here with the powering on not quite working and it makes some very violent flashes so i do not want to try to add any stress to this monitor we're not even going to power it on yet obviously there's some kind of internal issue going on inside this pvm so we need to get inside it in order to do that we're going to turn the monitor around and remove the shell from the outside here's the back side of the monitor obviously the exterior has been removed and what has occurred back here is the owner of the monitor was checking voltages i believe on the neck board which is our seaboard right here and while he checked those voltages he connected two points that should not have touched with the two prongs on his multimeter and when he did that he created a voltage or a short between two points and caused something to be damaged now after he did that he contacted me i told him i wasn't quite sure what he had done to check his fuses and things but it wasn't a fuse problem because the fuses were fine had to reach out to the legendary save on pat and pat had informed us that there is a resistor on this board and it is resistor 705 and that resistor can act as a fuse and blow out in certain situations which is what we are hoping is the problem here but if i look down here i do see where there's like an arc on the 160 volt line and so i'm not sure and it meant even an arc over here in the ground so something or maybe even just checking that to ground was too much voltage and caused a spark so that that's kind of an issue do not you know try to do certain things on a monitor unless you know exactly what you are doing or you can damage it or even worse hurt yourself so here's a closer look at the backside of the neckboard and r705 that is a 39 ohm quarter watt resistor and unfortunately i cannot test this resistor while it's in circuit it needs to be removed from the circuit in order to actually get a good reading on it i tried to get a reading and it was very unstable and then i realized that it just needs to be out of circuit so what we're going to need to do is remove this and hopefully save on pat is right here's our neckboard removed we're going to take a closer look at r705 right down in here next to this capacitor you see this it's kind of elevated a little bit off the board so let's pull it remove it and then we'll test it with the multimeter and see if this is the problem or not should tell us pretty pretty much right away here's our resistor i've got some hands holding it so that i can get a good reading from my multimeter i'll be switching this to read for ohms if it reads 39 ish it's good it's reading about 20 ish right now 19 let's see what a good one will measure that one's reading 40 did you see it 38.7 right there all right power is being fed in i have not turned on the power switch yet so this is the first time i've done it since obviously you saw me replace the resistor and then reinstall the neckboard i went and double checked all the connections made sure everything was right and i figure worst case scenario is we turn it on here and it will look just the same as it did in the demonstration video best case scenario is we've repaired the monitor all right here goes nothing let's see what happens so far so good see component come up on screen looks pretty normal there's our menu okay so that's all the good side now let's do some testing with the monitor and make sure it works all right i've got things set up to run some tests with a triple bypassed sega genesis version two fed over to rgb scart now let's take a look on screen and success we have rgb and sync on screen which is a great sign now i need to let it run for probably an hour just to make sure there are no hiccups and that everything else is fine with the machine but yes just amazing great stuff the crt has been running now for about an hour and it looks really good we've got a pretty decent looking overall picture here i don't really feel like this monitor needs really anything else at this time it's not old enough and it doesn't appear that there's enough hours on this really for it to need a full geometry cap kit as a matter of fact sometimes changing those capacitors especially right now when it's difficult to find good replacements always it's better sometimes in these later model pvm so just leave them if you can tell that there's not a lot of hours on it so i'm just going to recommend that we put the shell back on this one to get it settled back up and then the owner can take it and use it for his own delight and that'll be it for this lovely sony pvm 20l5 and hey how about that what a great job by save on pat to be able to diagnose something like this just straight up over the phone kudos to him i would have not known that that resistor acted like that a fuse in some cases is a fail safe i will note that save on pat does offer a capacitor kit and a repair kit for the l5s both the 20 inch and the 14 inch and in that kit it does include this resistor so if you did have an issue where your monitor wouldn't power on like this one didn't you could order his kit and do just the resistor or the entire kit and then your monitor will probably work afterwards so that is a good thing that it is in that kit thanks again for watching everybody i will see you all next time with some more retro content here we have a perfect example of why you always want to inspect inside a crt no matter what now this is one of the most desirable 13 inch sony pvms this is the 14l5 the multi format crt and it's been performing fine but i'm going to show you a couple reasons in here specifically why you would want to always inspect inside if you're first off just look at the amount of dust build up inside of here all the components and cables are heavily coated with that dust and that's very dangerous look over here we could have some spiders living in this area you literally do have cobwebs so there was a spider set up in there or there currently is one living in there i haven't seen one jump out at me yet but do you see how that could easily cause these components to be stressed by either holding in and insulating excessive amounts of heat especially on these heat sensitive items like the capacitors this is the deflection board right here with our daughter board and our main deflection board so that's the big reason is this stuff right here is not very good for the pvm there's not a lot of space inside of this one and it's been mostly clogged up with spider webs and then build up dust and that dust also in the worst case scenario could cause something to short out such as one of these ic's on here or something or even an ic on like say the neck board just look down inside here but just look at how dirty it is inside of the actual area in here now this side is where the input card goes in so the main thing we're looking at is dust but the next thing we need to be mindful of is look at this now this is a 17 year old crt it's got just some really delicate plastic on it see how this board it should be up in here about like that that's the other side just a connection board here that should be a back against there you can see where a piece of plastic has come off there it's missing over here and just to kind of show you what i mean check this out this is all the plastic bits that i found just laying inside of the pvm so none of that's really good it'll heat up and melt and again not it's not safe could damage something so that's all out and what we need to do now is just set up and the first thing i really want to do is i don't want to cause any more damage to this board and we're going to service this board so i'm going to take it out first and this daughter board and probably the board behind it will disconnect all that and we'll move this entire plastic piece out of the way and then we'll clean the rest of this monitor and then we'll service this board so let's get that set up i've moved to my garage just to make sure i don't get any of this dust down in the bunker let's take one last look at just some of the build up here of course the deflection board is out being serviced we still have the d2 daughter board down here in the way but just look at all the build up in here we're about to clean all this out and i'm going to use just some brushes some safe esd brushes and also an esd cloth to clean off that neck of the tube and then i'm going to use my compressed air to blow all this out all right our crt has been reassembled and before i did that you could tell i thoroughly cleaned inside there's really no cobwebs left or anything i did a nice polish on the back of the tube where uh there's not that important paint you want to make sure you don't rub that off but there are some spots on the tube that was dirty we were able to clean up we were able to clean up anode cap and that cable there and really all the boards were cleaned up it's it's much nicer inside and then we also serviced the main deflection board here and i will show you a copy of the capacitor list i often get asked about the capacitor list so here's one for free from me to you and you can just take a look at that and those are the caps that were serviced on this one the biggest and most important thing for this one was to get cleaned out and to get that loose plastic removed from the inside of the monitor where it could have either knocked off on something or caused um you know a short it could have i know it's not conducted the plastic itself but it could have done something like pushed against two points that were metal and caused a short now it's just time to turn it on and see if it works so we've got it hooked up with a super nintendo through rgb and i'm just going to slowly rotate it here while it's turned on and you'll notice some sound coming up and all right so let's make sure it's on external sync that's it so it was on rgb just no sync all right it seems to be running great so just remember always clean inside these old crt's i mean even this one is only 17 years old i say only because that's kind of young for a crt most crts are well older than that 20 to 30 years old and you can really find some crazy things inside them i've seen some really bad spider webs wasps nests all kinds of crazy stuff inside of these and so not only can it be you know bad for your environment in your home but it's also not good for the inside and the crt if you could begin to use it so always good to get in there and clean things out you do not have to discharge this to clean inside you can leave the anode cap in there and the end result is a clean device that will last a whole lot longer than if you did nothing and just waited for a fail thanks for watching me today let me know what you think with a comment below and i will see you all next time with some more retro content and welcome back to today's retro tech we're going to be looking at one of my very favorite pro video monitors today that is the sony pvm 20l 5 broadcast monitor well it's almost a broadcast monitor it's still considered a pro video monitor but it it is about the most high-tech and technologically advanced monitor you'll find in the pvm family family but i've got one in my shop that i'm going to be doing a future proofing restoration on there are actually some parts that sony recommended be changed from their original design so in with this monitor we're going to go in in another video and i'm going to discharge and take it apart and we'll look at the parts that need to be changed we'll change them and we'll put it back together calibrate it and give it a good cleaning and basically get it ready to be sold off so just to give you a quick background on this one it is one that i purchased locally from an x video editor who edited things like where i'm in nashville tennessee area and he edited things like country music videos in the 2000s as well as like documentaries and other small projects that would have gone on in town but this was his personal monitor and he bought it and used it very little he had other monitors and then it wound up going to a flat screen not not too long after it so it actually was something that was not really used at all it's never been shipped or anything like that so it's a very good condition pvm this one came from december of 2003 so so again a later manufacturer date and we're going to take a quick look at the inputs here you've got rgb and component in the middle that's a switchable input but there is only that single input that's on the monitor to begin with and we'll talk about the two option slots in a minute but you can actually add a couple of different bkm accessory cards to your pvm if you need to have additional inputs and things like that but you've got a single line a that has both s video and composite in and out with a mono audio you've also got the line b that is the just composite audio and video in and out now i do need to tell you you do not need any kind of terminators for this like the 75 ohm terminators this is self-terminating so you don't need that for this monitor the rgb again is switchable here in the middle just notice that it starts with green blue and then goes red rather than the older monitors went from red green blue on the connection points this one does have a different setup for that just just in their organization and then you've got a parallel remote input for like a serial port here you've got a couple serial remote one in and out if you want to use some kind of serial input device to connect to the communications between this monitor and other monitors and devices and then you'll see up here where it's got audio option inputs one and two now those are the two inputs for your audio if you have cards installed in the slots on the upper side of the monitor which should be visible here very right there the um right above my head here on the left there's the slot covers and so that's where those slots you could take those covers off and just slide in some type of a bkm so now let's go and actually turn this monitor on because there's something I want to show you just specifically when you turn this on you'll notice here's the power button after it's pulled you know taken and powered up you just press that and then you press that little control button after it's powered up and it'll bring up your menu which is just a bunch of switches here on the side so rather than the dials and buttons that you'll see on bvms as well as other pvms this goes back to that 2030 setup for the buttons where you've got they uh able to turn on an led that lights up and gives you the buttons on both the sides I've got a lot of different things you could control on here and then at the very bottom is a reset button but this is you push the menu button now I want you to see first here how this jumps back and forth this does tend to happen when you first start this monitor up for the first couple minutes on rgb and eventually it will stable out and just stop jumping up and down like that but that's normal with these higher-tech l-series monitors they seem to do that so you'd stop now it may even do it a little bit longer if that input set to component but just make sure that if you are using it that you've got rgb and then you press the external sync button over here under rgb so you have your sync set right another thing to note is that down here in the corner you may notice when you turn on your rgb that it says 480-60i and it is still a 240p mode it's just saying the monitor just naturally will always say that and what you could control from these is like volume contrast brightness anything else like phase chroma those are all controls that are built into this monitor so once you get it set kind of with that initial menu you can press that button again and it turns off the LEDs so you don't have those lights while you're using the monitor you could just make them go away or bring them back if you need to but the first thing we're going to do is we're going to look at its condition now before we do these capacitor replacements it's actually in I mean amazing condition I've not even used this myself probably more than a thousand I mean definitely not a thousand hours maybe not even a hundred hours on this particular monitor myself and again the guy who I bought it from did not use it really at all it's what he told me so again everything on here is just it's beautiful right now and the job's going to be mainly preventative from this point there is a tight bit of convergence I mean very minuscule in the corners and across the tops and bottom of the screen so that may be just something that we simply have to make a little adjustment on the yoke that I'll show you but that's about the only issues that I saw overall on the calibration just from an initial setting it's already nice and even centered up and again the linearity is very nice and even the grid pattern is very sharp and there's no wonkiness in the corners at all to begin with I'm just going to go through a couple more of these slides or I'm sorry the 240p test suite things here and I'm using this through rgb and my super nintendo now what I'm checking for here is a red green and blue and then white screen and black screen test that shows me if there's any purity issues within the magnetism there that's just a quick sharpness test so we could see how sharp it is on this scale this is uh oh it just could give you a good idea of the actual sharpness on the tube and one of the last things I like to always run through is a scroll test because it's it's there's some things you're just not going to see unless your picture is really in motion the scroll test is nice because you can change the speed from slow to stopping and then slow and speed it up and go really fast there's also a grid scroll test which I really like because again it's showing you more of a pattern that's going across the screen and what it actually looks like so those are some tests that I always try to do to see the overall linearity condition of the screen to begin with I'm going to show you one of my favorite games to test monitors on and that's shadow run for the super nintendo and the reason being is this is a very sharp game it's got some interesting backgrounds and it doesn't have green color in the title screen here which would make it pretty much perfect if it did but there's a lot of stuff you on the whole screen where you can see for sharpness and with the different lines that are going across it completely just on this this is just the title screen but that's just one of the good aspects of this game is this title screen it's just very uniform easy to check and see if you have any kind of issues with your screen and I just tried to get as close as possible here to show you the extreme sharpness of this monitor and how amazing the scan lines look so this is like the title screen entrance or before the title screen on shadow run it's got this amazing drop down thing here where it's almost the exact opposite of what I was telling you on the sonic scroll pattern this is a scroll pattern down so this gives you both by using this game you get both the patterns of going you know we're going side to side on the test suite and on this one I'm watching the downward movement so I could make sure that there's no walkiness really anywhere in that picture and to start with this one's pretty good you also get this cool shadow effect where the shadow run will pop up and down the screen and get into its final position before the title screen ultimately comes up and even the game itself when you go through some of the gameplay it's a very good game to judge based on the outline square of the actual game itself while you're playing it so the last couple minutes here are just going to be a lot of gameplay footage of some competitive rounds with the computer on dr mario for super nintendo this is dr mario tetris version so again I want to talk just specifically about this monitor I've got a list here for the caps and then there are actually some other parts it's not just caps that have to be replaced on this monitor you've got other parts in it that are going to be replaced it's got a couple boards when we get inside you'll see how the one problem with the 20-0-5 is it's really compact inside and there's a lot of plastic holding it together so it's really vital not to just take shipping for granted when it comes to a 20-0-5 whereas a bvm is mostly metal and has a little bit more durability to stand up to a shipping whole shipping you know experience these ones are a little bit more fragile and you need to know that when you're either shipping it or just plain moving it around but we'll go through we'll change the capacitors and we'll change those parts and we'll run a full component and RGB tests on it and I will also install and show you some of those different video cards because I've got nearly all of them for this monitor even some sdi cards so it's it's really interesting when you start using some of those other inputs to get things like 720p and 1080i you can use different formats to get that into your monitor besides just component maybe just a couple more things to note on this monitor specifically again it came from the video editor in town and I was able to get it again a good while ago and I've just not have a little real lot of time to work on it so I'm excited to be able to finally bring this to you I'm going to show you just a little bit more gameplay footage here and then I'm going to say hey thanks again everybody for watching today's retro tech if you have any questions about this monitor you want to know anything specifically to adjust on your l5 leave it in a comment below and make sure you're subscribed up to the channel because these videos are going to be coming quickly my plan is just get started on this full repair tomorrow I've already got the parts here and we'll get it torn apart and get it future-proofed because again I mean the the sharpness of this thing is pretty much as good as you could get from a starting point on a monitor and the 2005 is one of the best and most popular pvms because of its multi-format features its size its picture quality and all-around greatness when it comes to analog video but thanks again everybody I appreciate your time today I'll see you next time with some more retro content now we're going to get started on the inside of this monitor again we're working on the tony pvm 20l5 and the first thing we need to do when we work inside the monitor is get the shell off away we can get inside to the circuit boards and the other important areas of the monitor that we're going to be servicing and adjusting now when you originally look at the side of this monitor you'll notice there are some extra screws that will not be removed to get the shell off what we're going to remove to get the shell off on this is the three screws on the larger piece of metal on each side and then there are four screws and the back of the pvm on the plastic that are holding that black or they the screws are black but they're holding that uh board and the other things on the back in place you don't have to take off these plate guards or you really don't even have to remove your boards if you're careful enough but once you get those screws out you should just be able to get behind the monitor and slip the shell off slowly pulling it back towards you just like any other pvm it's pretty pretty standard right there so that's how you get it open and uh one of the first things to notice on this pvm is how compact it is now this is the first time i've opened this one uh maybe not the very first time but it's definitely the first time i've opened it to be serviced i might have just opened it to check and make sure there wasn't anything damaged initially but it still had cobwebs and uh some large amount of dust built up in it and again this one was sold new to a local video editor who rarely used it and then put it in storage and then i got it from him so never been serviced inside it's never really needed servicing to this point so it's just a really you know it's in good shape but still pretty dirty inside and needs some cleaning you can really see some cobwebs down here in this clump of wires over here to the just under the yoke assembly and right above that heat sink plate so just a lot of things actually inside this monitor this is one of the most compact and cramped 20 inch pvms or really probably altogether broadcast level monitors you work on see when you work on like a 20 inch bvm you're going to have a lot more room in there there's a lot bigger so this one's really cramped there's a lot of boards hanging on top of each other a lot of wires connecting the boards together and the first board we're working on is going to be this board over on the right hand side of the monitor if you're looking at the back of it it's got a ton of capacitors in it and a couple connection points there are some screws holding it onto this hab you know this plastic here so just make sure that you don't torque those screws too hard you could crack that plastic again all the plastic in this pvm tends to be pretty brittle so it's still workable but it's very brittle so you have to be very careful when you're working it so this is the board we're working on first again this cap kit i got came directly look this one came directly from save on pat at least the plan for it did now i did replace a couple of different capacitors with the higher quality capacitors that i use but the kit design was from him and so that's where i got the actual layout for it plus his recommendations for upgrade kit parts so this kit is available on um it's available on ebay and it might be something to you know definitely use if you have any troubles with your pvm but it's kind of an odd kit and i'll talk a talk a little bit more about that as we go through this repair some of the odds and weirder things better on it but this board was like a mini version of a power supply unit it looked to have a lot of the power supply parts on it so maybe that's even you know what it's ultimate design is to be like a breakout board for the power but this one pretty easy to recap the caps were in there and you know the thing that sony did do was they use extremely high quality capacitors especially on these 2005s so that's why if you you know get in there and you look at the capacitors you'll notice a lot of them are metal topped and i mean they're really really high end versions of capacitors so a lot of times even nowadays if they're not if the monitor doesn't have a lot of use a lot of these capacitors will still be good so these are the removed spots on the board where the capacitors go and now i'm going to go in and heat up my iron and then we're going to replace the capacitors in here that are recommended by the savon pat cap kit now if you're really serious about you know getting in here and replacing every capacitor in your pvm just note that this one will be a colossal task and it's definitely something i would not recommend for anybody who's on any kind of like a novice level i'll give you my thoughts towards the end of this more on that on how difficult it was for this particular cap kit and to actually go in and replace all the caps on this particular pvm and do serious repairs it's really difficult there's there's a lot of the size on this everything's compacted down smaller the components are practically right on top of each other there's very little room to get in and out in between things and this was actually one of the boards that was easier to work around the later boards i'm just going to show them to you they were actually really difficult to get in and work on but the cap kit you know it's pretty simple showing you how i like to replace caps where i'd remove them all first and then i come in afterwards and and sometimes i'll tack them into place usually with flux and some nice solder and then after i tack them into place and snip the legs down i come over it and i reflow the solder to make sure the connection is nice and then we'll of course clean these areas up with some alcohol after all this but i wanted to show you the majority of the capacitor replacement on this board since it was easier to work around and since primarily the other boards were really just too compacted and too difficult to work around and get a lot of good footage to work in so this was really the best board to do all this but it's always good you see what i'm doing in here i i actually had one of the capacitors i put in was the wrong value i put the wrong cap in one of the places right there and i caught myself after i did a quick check after what i'd done and found that cap so even you know when to make sure you're paying extra close attention and don't accidentally do that and then not catch it and then you'll have a big problem if you turn the monitor on or put it back together with possibly the wrong capacitor in one of the places that you replaced it so it's always a great idea to go in and double and triple check the capacitor changes you make sure that they're all pointed the negative side is on the right negative position and then everything else is in the right spots so that's that one board and with it out of the way we're going to work on getting the next board out which ultimately is going to be the neck board and the chassis and the chassis is obviously behind this video input card here with all our different inputs the master input board that is attached to the pvm so that board doesn't actually have any that doesn't actually have any you know different parts in it that we're going to be working on now this is the discharge method i wanted everybody to see that warning do not try this discharge method at home okay this is the sony recommended discharge method and i only did this uh sometimes when the monitor is in really good condition i can inspect that anode cap and cable but this is how you're supposed to discharge it according to sony's manual which just means working it around till you actually get it unhooked from the back of the crt tube there get it unclipped and then after you finally get it unclipped make sure you don't touch any of that metal but you tap that metal part to the main chassis really anywhere i did the grounding plate on the back of the crt and that's all you do now i'm not going to go up next to that tube spot so i'm not actually going to uh i mean i wouldn't be going near it but you should discharge that too with the discharge tool after you've done what i just did the reason behind doing it in that method that i just showed you is you're not going to damage the back of the tube by scraping it with the screwdriver or anything apparently was a problem back in the day where two texts that were untrained would often go in and scrape that tube too hard and actually damage it so that's something to take you know into consideration next when you're removing the neck board you notice there was a piece of plastic that tends to hold this neck board into place that is going to be so brittle that uh from the heat of being on the crt gun it's going to most likely shatter mine just shatters into pieces just by pretty much touching it don't worry about that you can get some silicone and reapply that or if you're not moving the monitor it's it'll still sit nice and snug on the neck board without that piece of plastic holding it but that's where the plastic went and the next thing i'm doing is i'm actually uh disconnecting this uh portion of the plastic where there's two cables that come in from the back of the flyback those cables come into the neck board and you can see how that's got a weird uh proprietary grip or uh plastic connector on there so that way you can get it out of the way and have no nothing connected to it at all while you're going through and working on that neck board you can have it isolated by itself which is definitely needed now i'm trying to get the chassis out and that cannot be done uh without removing this board right above my head where you normally have your cards your additional cards it's just a couple screws that hold the whole plastic housing in place and then you can kind of just lift it and set it out to the side and then there are two screws on the chassis one is usually behind the flyback so make sure you get that one and there's one right at the back here where this little white piece of plastic is under my hand and that's all that's holding it in there so make sure you just get that out and get all the cables out of the way as best as possible because i've been look at that that is a ton of cabling probably twice as much as like a 20m2 or i mean an m series or like a you know another medical monitor that's probably got twice as much cabling inside it so again very small the neck board looks pretty standard but the chassis is very small now here's one of the parts in the kit and um this kind of confused me okay then one of the parts in the kit was this attached to this heat sink this ic right here and um and i checked the parts numbers on it and it was exactly the same and for some reason pat only recommended changing the first one now there's one of these for each color right so there's one two three so there's going to be three of these total the problem is is those heat sinks are so close together i have no idea how anybody would be able to change the other two if you had an issue with the other two uh back ones if one of those burn out i don't know how you change them without taking the whole board apart practically and actually removing the heat sinks most likely to get to the other part and um since the parts were exactly the same and take caution and don't add you don't actually have to change them if you don't want to if there's not an issue with these parts because again the part number is exactly the same and the second reason i say this as i look on the back of this board and this was not clear in the instructions for the cap kit there's actually a little diode i believe attached on the bottom of each one of these ic's every single one of them has it uh jump over into the same spot with some silicone on there so that really wasn't clear either and again i don't really see the point to changing this part particularly here just this single one when it has three of them on the board and again it's not an upgrade part particularly there because it was the same exact part numbers on the front of that uh that board description right there so just note that there are some parts recommended two parts recommended change on that and they're pretty much a similar just like that so that's what you get in that kit if you go look at the kit some more you're going to get in here and it's just got sporadic capacitors that are listed to replace in here and that's fine but you have again this is so difficult to get in and work around here just because of all the metal shielding and the actual design of how tightly close and all the heat sinks i mean they pretty much cover up nearly every single capacitor it's just like there's extra heat sinks over top of them things are compacted all together look at this cluster of capacitors up here on the other side of this you've also got other components attached to the outside of this large shielding to dissipate more heat so it's really a difficult design and you know the only way i'd really i'd only recommend this kind of stuff again for really extremely highly um you know level of expertise and experience with electronic repair to get in here and do this one of the other things was that that's another little part that was included in the kit and i was trying to figure out why it's this one right here this three pronged i see and again same exact part number as the replacement part i didn't see a single difference on the replacement part it's not as if it was a better part my guess is this board this board sits or this part of the heat sink sits on an exterior part where there's some ground cables that come across another cabling that comes through here and you may get an opportunity to have a short between these legs and then you'll probably blow out this part and that's most likely what i think would be the reason this was in the kit in case that happens maybe more often than not this part fails so if you have an issue with your pvm that might be one of the parts to look at uh replacing and that was actually an easier part that was on the outside of the board one of the easier parts out of all of them but when you get that kit you also need to know that you're not just getting the parts you have to actually go in and buy some more heat thermal paste some nice you know thermal paste to put in between those components if you do change i mean to put that between that and the heat sink a little bit of that on there which i didn't show any of that i just showed the single board being done but now i've got everything put back together and it's again a long and tedious process that i just didn't do to show you all the way through it it was exact opposite of put it or take it apart just put it all back together making sure every one of those cables is connected and there were dozens of connections on this monitor and then we're going to go ahead now and do a firing up of the monitor or test run and we'll see just initially whether we can get power into it what happens when we turn it on what the screen looks like and this is like one of those you know the nerve wrecking moment if you finish repair something that technically you know difficult and that precise of a machine it always makes you nervous when you put it back together and you're actually getting to turn it back on but thankfully everything worked out okay and everything looks fine on here so everything worked that's that's really good i just wanted to go through and show you the menu pulls up this is the very this is honestly the very first time i did pull it and turn it on so i didn't you notice i didn't have any edit cuts in there that was this is the first time after the capacitor replacement so just at this point we're going to go in and work on running a lot of tests and that's going to be testing every input for analog video as well as some of the digital input video inputs and then we'll test the video card slot and just get a good overall idea of what condition we're in but that's going to all wait till the next video because that's going to do it for today's episode today's episode was pretty much just about the chassis and the inside the monitor and getting in there and working around giving you guys a good idea of what it looks like inside there but again this is not repair stuff that i'd recommend for people who are not highly trained and do not have you know a lot of experience working on specifically you know monitors like this you know if you don't if you don't if you get inside there and you're afraid to work on those boards then it's probably a good idea to try to find somebody else that will do it for you because again this monitor is becoming so rare and the fact that it does 480p and 720p and 1080i 240p it does all those and it just accepts so many great video inputs that it's still one of the most desirable broadcast CRT monitors on the market so again let's look for that next time i'll have that come in in just a couple days that episode where we go through the calibration and you get a lot to see a lot of the testing i've got some really cool stuff already taking care of for that but that's going to do it for this episode please leave a like and let me know if you have any questions or comments below and i'll see you guys next time with some more retro content right so we finally come to the end here of our 20 l5 restoration project and before this you know we've gotten inside of it we've also done some repairs and some future proofing by replacing some vital components and capacitors inside the monitor and today we're just going to run through some of the calibration stuff as well as look at some settings that you can do that we have not covered in the past so look i have gone through and done an entire calibration video on this monitor a little bit over a year ago but we're going to go through that a little bit more today but if i miss anything in this video go back and check that other video i'll leave a tag for it and that way you can make sure you know exactly what you're looking at if you're looking at a calibration issue on this monitor and again that will be also added to the playlist for this so i wanted to do something unique and show you something maybe a little bit different i hope you can see this now this is the back of this pvm and we're going to look specifically at the yoke obviously it's been cleaned up and put back together and now we're going to go in here and we're going to check out some of these convergent settings on the back of the pvm i'm taking a bird's eye view here and i hope my picture isn't blocking at all but what i'm looking at are these inputs right here this one says ych, ybh and tlv and those are just different but there's potentiometers in that hole and you spin a screwdriver that fits down in there and i don't and i've got the screen pulled up here to show you the top of the screen but what you're going to do is as you turn those potentiometers you're going to just want to take a look at your convergence across your entire screen of your monitor so you'll want to you know stick a screwdriver there just turn it a little bit see what the reaction is but this is going to help you clear up some of the vertical convergence rather than going in and manipulating those rings that we've done before i'll link to the video if you need to use the rings to adjust but if you just need to make a simple adjustment or if you want to not mess with the rings that's what these potentiometers are in here for now there's a lot more information for you in the manual on the exact specifics of what's going on here but for them to you know sum it up nicely those three potentiometers in the back can help with clearing up convergence on the l5 and you know 14 inch and 20 inch both of those should have this yoke and you'll be able to make those adjustments and that again will help you clear up the convergence at the top's edges of your screen it's always good to use a you know either a line generator or something that gets you horizontal lines across there so you could see the beams of your electrons and where they're actually hitting your screen so the rest of this we're going to look at is going to be other calibrations using the service menu this one is similar to the other service menus where you know you want to have your rgb and everything or whatever you're using the calibrates set up and like the other service menus and other monitors that are not as high tech as this one to get into it you have to press d goss and enter so first you press menu on the buttons over here you press menu on this right side of your button on the monitor you're going to press a menu down here and then after your menu is pulled up like it is here then you want to go in and you press just like you do with other monitors i know my head's in the way you're going to press the d goss button which is on the left hand side as well as the enter button on the right hand side of the monitor menu to press them simultaneously and it will pull up as the menus now you got to make sure the menu is already up so press menu and then enter and digoss at the same time sorry to keep going on that but that's how you pull up your secondary menu where you could do a lot of the calibrations that you really want to do for either geometry and other things like focus you can use in here you can also do your yoke adjustment as far as the tilt of the screen on here which i'm about to show you too this is the settings though if you go into your deflection settings these are all your settings that you control from this deflection portion of the service menu you've got a couple for linearity up here too for linearity this trapezoid is that's more of tilt the picture towards you whether you're the top of the screen is tilting towards you and the bottom's tilted back but that's how you swing that to make that and then you've got a bunch of pin controls and the para control is more like that vertical lean and bow so you got a bunch of stuff like that that you could get in here they did change a little bit on what it's called but that's how you do it and if you go in you can manipulate a setting by using the up and down key first press enter on the setting so you press up and down to pick whichever one of these you want to try to work on and you press enter to go into that mode that specific line item and then once you're in that line item you press up and down on the menu and you manipulate that item to make that value go up or down and look with this one you don't have to hit degauss to right you actually hit enter again to right and then it'll take you back out to this menu but if you just hit menu and go back you're going to leave it in whatever setting it was saved in so if you're you know if you're in there change you don't remember what it is hit menu and go back don't hit enter hit menu and go back and then it will just go back to what it was before you started manipulating it so i know it's a little confusing and i'm sorry to kind of get into it in like a tangent like this but i just want to make sure that you're doing it the right way so if i'm confusing anyway leave me a comment let me know and i'll try to explain it better next time but that's the overall controls and these are you know the settings and i think i go in here and might show you what my final settings are but this these values are going to be different for each you know monitor whatever you're working on you're not going to have the same exact settings like you can't put probably my settings that i have here and actually have it work for you so what i've done here is i'm going to show you this landing which is actually yoke tilt on this monitor so if you have this l5 and this landing actually isn't a lot of other menu m2s and 4s things like that so but it's really not as precise i mean you're on the other like medical grade and lower end monitors you're moving it maybe a 16th of an inch if you're lucky this one will move it a little bit more and so we go in this is again into that configuration menu and you'll go look for this little toolbox and it'll have landing and this is some of these have two of two so there's a second page and that's where the landing is and if i get in there and i pull back by configuration screen here where i can show you some of this when i adjust this landing how it actually manipulates the screen tilt on here but you increase it goes to the right and you decrease and it goes to the left you can kind of see especially see how my bottom of my screen is i'm going to get up here and switch the view for you in a second but i wanted to show that's what that is you you know most of those the rest of those aren't going to matter as much but i'll get in here now and we'll show you what we mean as far as like adjusting this landing a little bit more so again it's that right there so watch me as i move this you know that screen as you go max it starts to tilt to the right it starts to tilt to the left now i know it's harder to see since i've gone in and and evened it out as far as the vertical size of my screen most of the time you'd want to push this screen out a little bit i like to shrink it down so i could see the whole thing in the screen but this one's got a good setting right at 50 so it's going to be left at that but that's how you could go in and fix your screen tilt from outside this monitor you don't have to get inside of it like you do other ones to actually change that and those are just kind of the things that are different about this monitor so once you get it nicely tightened up you can get in there and run some tests and that's what we're going to do today so for the rest of this i'm going to actually pull my picture out of there out of here on the the rest of the video and i'm going to talk you through a little bit of this and we'll let it play because i do have some gameplay and i don't want you to see my picture in the way at all so the today i'm going to show you my 3DO and this one does not have the rgb mod yet but it does have a 240p switch which i'll go into details a little bit more here the reason i do like to use the 3DO though is it has all the other standard outputs right out in the back like s video and composite and rf right in the back of the actual video game console just wanted to show this adapter this is kind of a rarer adapter i'll go over it maybe a little bit more in the future but it does allow you to plug right into a 3DO and use super nintendo controllers which is way better than the 3DO controllers and it also breaks out to where two players can be used on there but here's the little switch and this is a little switch that lets you switch between 240p and 480i the 3DO pretty much started with just 480i resolutions and that's what we're going to start with is the 480i and so it has to be in 480i mode for it to turn on and work but once it's on you can use that switch and switch over between 480i and 240p and i'll show you that in some gameplay here in a second so it's really good to test things that are in you know composite as well as s video because you can test it both those inputs and you can test 240p and 480i the game in there is one of Kirk Cameron's finest performances and it's known as the horde so if you're um if you own a 3DO i definitely recommend checking that game out so first off this is obviously 480i resolution here on the screen i'll show you it's it's literally blurry and you know it just doesn't look as good it doesn't look terrible but 240p looks 100 times better and what i'll do is i'll go over now to the console and i'll just enact the switch there and sometimes it takes a couple flicks but once it's engaged you could definitely see the difference on 240p how it gives you the nice scan line feature and i think it looks a lot better than 480i and this is obviously very close and this game doesn't you know have the best amazing most amazing graphics but it is a lot of fun and it definitely is helped by the 240p you're not getting any screen flicker anymore but that's kind of the 480i and 240p tests i like to run is i like to check both those out see how the screen works on those and then you know the rest of the video today i'm also going to take and show you some other inputs here i'm going to go through we've done the rgb and we've also done this one has shown both composite and s video you don't see too much of a difference s video does look quite a bit sharper on here there's s video with the 240p switch engaged again right there so that's that's uh that's how it looks so we're going to go through now and take a look at some other consoles it's going to be a PlayStation rest of this video we're going to go through now i'm going to show you 240p and component we'll move up to 480i and then we'll also move to 480p but that's pretty much going to do it for my talking part uh let me know if you have any questions or comments below i thank you guys for watching and i'll see you next time with more retro content hey everybody we all know that shipping crts can really be a disaster most of the time and that's why i am super excited to show you my first experience with the company u ship now this is not a sponsored video or anything this was just a actual experience i had as a client of mine from a different part of the united states needed to ship this a sony pvm 20l 5 to me to have it serviced and checked out the problem is is i will no longer let anybody just pack this type of a monitor in a cardboard box and send it to me via fedx or ups or really any other ground shipping company i've had a high failure rate and i've had plenty of people send me terrible pictures and videos of their pvms and monitors being destroyed especially larger ones like this one that have a 19 inch tube in them just because of poor packing or even if the packing is really well done there's still a chance that in the shipping process it rolls around and gets heavily damaged so what i want to show you today is again my experience with the company u ship and this is a basically broker website that connects people that need things shipped that are fragile or odd or really invaluable they need those shipped and you can try to hire somebody through this u ship firm where they go out and connect licensed insured and professional driving companies to pick up your item and then ship it to wherever you need to be shipped so uh let's just look now i'll show you how this was packed when it got to me because it was awesome and i do think that this is something that everybody who has ever considered shipping a crt should consider from this point on all right folks i'm sorry first off about the audio quality here today but what i've got for you is a professionally boxed crt that's on a pallet or a mini pallet and then it's been shipped through u ship in a small distribution shipping chain which is just a small business that actually just sent me this um this did come from uh texas or arizona i believe i cannot remember the exact location but first off this is a nice plywood box from u line i'm sure this was probably pretty pricey should be easy to pack back up and return ship well it looks like we've got an l series monitor down in here so it's got a nice dent on the side but i'm not thinking that probably didn't happen from this okay let's get it out just bottom of the box now here's the bubble wrap in the plywood there an initial inspection here we're definitely missing the power button i might actually have one of these assemblies inside my shop that i can offer and then there's a big what looks like impact point right here so i'm not sure what happened there i'll have to speak with the honor and see here's some damage over here there's some more damage down here so let's get it up and we'll take a better look at it all right let's take a closer look at the monitor now that we have it up it's obviously a 20l5 and just initial inspection of the left hand side over here it all looks fine there's this tiny ding just right there on the bezel and if we keep going over here to the right hand side you'll see where there is i don't even see an assembly in there for the button the entire arm may be gone so that's not there the rest of the bezel seems to be intact and the screws actually look pretty straight in over here we're missing a screw down here to hold this corner see so that's not there screw right here that again is not flush so let me just see what's going on under there it's got the screw down there got the rest of the screws in the shell but again here's a big ding check that out something hit the side here hopefully it avoided the boards behind there back here we've got some more what looks to be body damage you see that bubbliness right there so we've got this corner right here looks like it's part of when it took that impact over here on the side it somehow damaged the plastic here and again i do not believe this had anything to do with the shipping we just did because there was no evidence of any kind of markings on the box or anything this all seems to be got a funky looking input card slot because that's just the slot door minus the actual input card so i just took the slot off the actual card there the sdi card and got rid of the card but kept the covering to cover up the slot bay and this one is from january of 2003 so definitely not the oldest version you've got the monitor down here with rgbs connected and it is powered on you can probably hear the very annoying noises coming from it we've got the sega genesis here running rgb scarred it is triple bypass modded and got the 240p test suite on screen and you did like i said notice there's some transformers or maybe capacitors over in here that are making some noise on this deflection block just listen to this this tube is going to be susceptible to magnetism check this out do you see how i turned that we've got complete discoloration on this end here on this end we've got red showing up so there's definitely a purity issue with this monitor now this this is something that does happen with this 20.05 more than others but you see how i turn the screen well as you can tell we've got a lot of things going on with this sony pvm it has a number of issues cosmetically that's wrong with it and also functionally first off obviously it still needs a power button which can be replaced and then the back shell casing still has damage to it and it can be replaced but there's also some stuff going on internally so we're going to need to at least do save on pets recap and repair kit to this one and it may even need more work than that because i have a feeling that there's a lot of hours on this monitor and that it's not probably been serviced it's also looked like again it's been beat up a little bit so that's it for that but what i wanted to finish out this video talking about is this box from uline and it may be something that you do really consider using because again you ship they did a great job of just moving this basically onto a trailer a covered enclosed trailer and then the delivery driver just moved it over here to my shop and that's really all that it did it was strapped against the trailer so it did not move but it was that uh fully enclosed wooden box now something you should know are the dimensions of this box the inside of the box and the workable area you have so the important dimensions on this box are the length and width and the length is 23 and one eighth inch and then it's 19 and a half inches wide the 19 and a half inch of wide is fine for most 20 inch crt monitors for example this one it's about 17 inches wide and even the big bvms that are 20 inches are 17 and a half inches wide the trouble you're going to run into is the other dimension which is 23 and a little bit over that an eighth inch long and an actual bvm that is loaded with cards is going to be right at 23 inches now you can remove the cards and cut down about an inch or two off the back end of the bvm if you wanted to use this box for a bvm and i think that's the method that you should do you should remove all those cards that are making it bigger and that includes like the power supply anything with a big heat sink on it remove those individually wrap them and then place them on top of the monitor because you have enough space vertically inside there to pack really anything you need the only issue again are the side packings and that way you could use this u-line package to ship your monitor it's available and it costs about a hundred dollars for each one of these and you could definitely use it multiple times i think that it's a great way to go if you're going to ship any pvm using any kind of shipping method you should do something really heavy-duty like this box at this point thanks again for watching everybody i'll see you all next time with some more retro content Welcome to today's retro tech we're going to be taking a very first and special look at one of the very best sony trinitron crt monitors available on the market that is a sony pvm 2005 which we're looking at right here this one has just come into the shop and we're going to take an initial look at it but first if this is your first time the channel please consider adding us to your subscription list if you do like this content we also do a lot of other things with crt's and retro technologies and collections of all sorts so please check out any one of our playlists for something that might be helpful or informative to you but now let's get back to this monitor so this monitor is one of the most prized monitors for the crt collector and that is mainly because of the many features it offers this one does not only do a great job when it comes to retro gaming and 240p content and it will display beautiful scan lines but it also goes beyond that and allows you to do things in other formats such as 480p 720p and i believe even 1080i anything you can do with hd sti or component and so let's just take a first initial look around here i want to talk about some of the features that sony added specifically to this model let us start here at the front of the monitor you'll notice here on this as you will see multi format on the top right hand screen you can notice too that we don't have the normal knob buttons that were on the prior models and even the 20l2s and other 20l models before this one what we do have is a push button here that has an indicator above it stating power and then under that is a small control button pushing that on is how you power and energize your pvm there is an led indicator down here that shows when there is power onto this unit and just what i wanted to highlight here is this control bar so you don't see anything right now but if you hit that control button you're going to pull up a lot of features and they're pretty self-explanatory they match a lot of the things we've talked about before but the reason i'm pulling this up is because this is not brand new this was something that was used in the 2030 models from the early 90s but sony got so smart at the time they made this monitor they went back they took that design to have a sleeker look on the outside but had the same functionality of those buttons so they went back and used that old format for these buttons to bring them to this later model which again is pretty much one of the last pvm crts to be produced that's just what i wanted to show there so easily to get that on and off by pressing that control button and then you push that button again to de-energize the monitor i've moved our picture a little bit to the side here so you can see something else that was great that was done with this particular pvm is there is a way to remove this screen bezel without just taking the whole monitor apart so if you had a problem in the past we had some kind of damage to the exterior on this bezel which may have nothing to do with the internal functionality of the monitor but on an older monitor which would have been anything like the 20l2s we recently looked at the 1954 cues the 2030s every other monitor that was a pvm other than the very small 8 inch monitors that were originally made you had to actually disassemble the entire pvm and even remove the crt tube and everything basically break the entire monitor down just to get the bezel off and replace it with another bezel not on this one you've actually got four screws one here one here and then two on the other side that you can remove and this bezel just comes right off so we will be doing that to clean it and so what i want to do right now is i'm just going to take these screws out and when you come back we'll see what it looks like without the bezel okay so all i've done is removed my four screws and i've kind of slipped the bezel out just a touch and please remember that your power button right here will just slip out and fall out since there's nothing keeping pressure on it and it's not back in its original spot so do not lose this or you'll have trouble and do not lose either any of the screws from the bezel but what i wanted you to show you here was that you can take this bezel out and kind of lift it and move it out like here so you could see we've got our controls there's a light fixture on the front here indicator that will tell us a certain mode if we trip it into that mode that will light up the front on that bar and these other wires go into our controls on the side of our control board here but if you were to have some kind of trouble with that bezel it is replaceable or you can get it around here so you can get a good chance to what we'll do is clean actually around our crt screen you can see too here this is a great example there's actually a uh anti-glare layer on this layer of this crt so if you had a scuff uh i have heard in the past of people peeling that layer off of their monitor screen and then they don't have the anti-glare layer but if you're in a dark room and using the crt it won't matter much anyway but that is a way to get rid of any small scuffs on this version of the pvm and it's something to look for if you are buying this pvm to make sure somebody hasn't pulled it off already because if it doesn't have that anti-glare i feel like it does decrease from the value and that's not something you'll be able to just see on an internet picture so that's how that bezel comes off and works we're going to clean it up and we'll go through that in another video but that's just the part on the bezel let's look at some more things on the outside of this monitor first now something else that's different about the design on this pvm a little bit is there's not a mono speaker that you can see on the front there is a mono speaker inside the pvm but it's not visible as it was in the earlier models that you could tell where the speaker is you can't see it visually from the front this so another thing to note is this does have a slightly smaller frame so it doesn't take up nearly as much space a couple inches less overall than a cube sized or the larger sized sony pvms that would be a 20 l2 the 20 m2 1954 q etc anything along those lines this is a slightly smaller version it does have the same types of setups as a 20 l2 down here and when we go through and clean it we'll take a closer look at that but what i want to focus on this part of the video is this back area here then we put video card or blank area over here this is a spot on our pvm where we can add an additional supporting video card now there's only a specific few cards that will fit in this one there is an hd sdi or sdi board that i do have a cup of one of them in storage but i don't really use it but we will do some tests with that later on with the hd signal and see how that looks on this monitor today i wanted to show you this board which sometimes people are looking for it's a sony bkm 129x it works with this monitor and the 20 l2 and this allows for an additional rgb input and output or a component input and output and today i was just going to show you if you're doing up getting these how simple it is to install this board there's no software to install first off you want to look in there and make sure you're right on the right side which the board should go on the furthest outside portion and it should just simply slide in and then it just has a little push in a little bit of force you could feel the cartridge kind of go into the slot there and then you just can hand turn these little screws on the back of this and that will have there you go you've got your card install and that's as simple as there is and then you should have one of these to go with this card which is just a blank filler this monitor cannot support two additional cards but sometimes the sdi card is wider than the simple you know component card we just installed so this one you just got to kind of work it in there a little bit and then it too is hand tightened in and that way you don't have an open space there for your monitor it's just to keep that area clean from dust et cetera but i wanted to show you how to properly install that and then you'll be able to use the standard osd it'll automatically detect what's in there in that hardware so it's very easy to insert and and you know change out boards on this as you have them and you need to use different formats it's very simple to change that on this particular pvm okay back here in front of the monitor with it turned on for the first time you can see just how great and crisp everything maybe looks from there but what i wanted to know you to notice here too is that there are some issues on the screen that we're going to have to do for calibration and so today we're not going to start that calibration but i want you to see maybe what i can show you here i can already tell that we've got an issue where the yoke is slightly tilted which is a good thing because we'll be able to opportunity in the next video to adjust the yoke and i can show you the new techniques to adjust the yoke on this 20l 5 which should translate to other crt similar and set up to this but we'll need to do a yoke adjustment and we'll also need to do a geometry adjustment on the screen at least its centerness and its size to expand it out to be the right size of the screen one last thing about this bezel you'll notice there are some slots in here this bezel you can't insert a 16 by 9 wide screen bezel input for this if you wanted to have wide screen on this monitor and i would condense your screen size to a screen like this but there is a a bezel attachment so we'll block out the blank screen parts if you for some reason wanted to do that but i don't think anybody want to do that so just so you know how to operate this control menu i've got it pulled up here again you'll see we've got line a b rgb and component and if we hit exit sync look what happens so it goes crazy but see if you put back your external sync it's going to go back as that so worried that was just a red rgb internal sync without the external sync mode and so you can switch over to component like that too we've got underscan we've got that 16 by 9 squished screen format we've got a blue only which this is really helpful for getting your grays color aligned and then we've got our mono audio just a couple of other things here that a reset a degauss button and a couple of other things an hv delay which is important is getting for sync you got a menu you got to get through the menu the same way as before when you need to make an adjustment you push the menu button and it pulls up your menu and then by using the same combination as we have before with those we can access the sub menu which we will also do in the next video and fully calibrate this monitor and then we'll actually get in here and test run some games but that's just a quick rundown on actually turning this thing on getting it functioning and getting to a starting point where now we do need to calibrate it but we're also going to take apart the shell and get it really nice and clean too since we know it's in good shape we want to get calibrated clean and then we can really start getting the heavy testing as far as what goes on now after our inspection here i'm feeling like maybe we're going to just do a go ahead and do a capacitor replacement on this thing and get a nice impression ready for at least 10 more years of service without any real problems or worries or anything so the tube the tube looks great on this monitor this is again one of the best monitors please let me know if you have any questions or if there's anything in here that you feel like we left out that needs to be addressed on the next video i appreciate your time today if you really enjoy this video please give us a thumbs up and thanks again for watching retro tech i'm steve have a great day hello there i am steve and welcome to retro tech academy today is part two of our special where we are highlighting the sony pvm 20l 5 now if you don't know much about the 20l 5 then you might want to start with our first part one video which kind of goes over the features a little bit as well as a walk around the outside of the monitor and initially turning it on and starting it up in today's episode we're going to take a closer look at the inside of the monitor behind the shell and we're going to take a look at what some of the features are for this monitor that weren't in past models as well as some of the adjustments we're going to need to make on this one we'll talk a little bit more specifically about the yoke and i've got a cutaway to where we're going to look at some other things here in the lab involving yokes uh so please sit right back and let's go ahead and get started today we're going to be looking at the 20l 5 i've picked the camera up and i'm going to walk around it a little bit more first you'll notice that we've taken the back shell off and it's pretty standard as taken off the other shells but there is something to remember since you've got your bezel has screws here and one down here now the one down here is still in place but to get that outer shell off you do have to take this one screw out and loosen this bezel up and then you can slip your metal out from behind there but you need to take that off on both sides of the top you can't take it off the bottom and then just clean under there but um that's something to note on this monitor you do need to take that off when you're taking off your shell and then when we get it back together i'll show you the other points where the shell uh the screws go into the shell to hold it in place but as i said let's just take a quick look around here and give you an initial look at what the inside of this pvm looks like when you remove that outer shell okay so first things we're taking a look directly at the back of the pvm now and i cannot again tell you how important it is to even if you don't know anything about your pvm you need to take the shell off once you first get it and check for dust inside your pvm this one was completely loaded with dust and it's um this it's got a manufactured date of almost 2004 December 2003 so over the time of the last 15 years just an enormous amount of dust will build up inside of these units sometimes and then after 15 years of dust build up that can start to overheat your components in your electrical parts and cause insulations and more heat to build up than intended and will cause damage to the pvm that is largely preventable by taking it apart if you need help with cleaning inside of a pvm we'll have many videos on that and um there's also a good video that i put together a while back about how to discharge a pvm that way if you're concerned with getting any kind of electrical shock you don't even have to really worry but if if you're really concerned you could discharge the pvm and then clean it but you really need to knock off as much dust as you possible of all this stuff and then the best thing to do is use compressed air i have a full-time air compressor so it would be really hard if you have a lot of dust to use like a compressed air can that you might get from office depot just a little one you might need a full air compressor so keep that in mind but you need to get that dust out of there first things first and if you're ever considering to purchase a pvm you always want to ask for pictures of the inside so you can see what condition it is so you can see if there's dust if it's been cleaned also that means your cellar will open it see the dust and most likely want to clean it somewhat for you so let's just go on here and look i mean obviously we've got our anode cap no this is not turned on not plugged in don't worry and um but the thing to notice that's extremely different is the yoke this is much more uh heavy duty a lot more stuff going on in this yoke there's a couple more adjustment potentiometers which honestly i'm not even uh certain as to what they might do i believe maybe it's some color control because it kind of is labeled maybe that's it i'll do some more research in the manual and find out but specifically i've not ever seen this yoke so i'll try to get in here and let you take a closer look at how mammoth that yoke is because later on i'm going to show you another yoke that is the same in most all other pvms um on a separate one but some other things to note on the yoke let's just try to swing around here i want you to see how much space there's very little space a lot of stuff is cramped in here and not like in past models we have a lot of room to work around so just look back here i'm going to move this cord out of the way and you can see down here where our um crt gun is and you'll notice that the convergent strings are actually separated you get two here two here and then another set of two over here and just a lot of stuff going on here now that's probably better if you need to make adjustments but you know won't accidentally hit the wrong rings where the six rings you are usually all on top of each other in other setups for crt's and we've got our neck board here with uh some more potentiometers i'm sure these are manual controls to the color in case we're not having any response on our menus we could come back here and adjust colors manually we've also got a potentiometer down here should try to swing around here that will adjust our convergence now i said that there was something on the yoke to pay attention to do you see this screw right here where my finger is right in front of those convergent strings there will be a screw like that on nearly every yoke especially sony pvm that screw can be loosened it doesn't have to be all the way untightened but loosened and it will help you maybe a little bit to be able to move your yoke left or right clockwise or counterclockwise a little bit to adjust it i said in the past that you don't you still don't have to but honestly it would be a good practice to loosen that up just a tiny bit move your yoke a little bit and then retighten it on the electron gun down there so we'll go and take a look now at um because i want you to see just take a quick look again at this yoke at how big it is over here it looks compared to this next yoke which is on a tube in another part of the shop let's go there now okay take a quick look here at this tube that has been taken out of a sony pvm see it's a sony trinitron tube still this one came out of sony pvm 1953 md and i did not remove the yoke assembly from it although that does come off but i wanted to show you on here an example of again this is that single screw also you can notice how much different this yoke looks it's got about half as much stuff on it as the 20l5 so most of the time your yoke will look like this in a smaller end pvm but on this example here i want to show you this screw how it's just now if you're working on this you don't need to touch it but you can work that screw around and once you've got it loosened you see how easy if you've got it loosened you can actually get that yoke to come back a little bit and adjust very smoothly and you get it back to the spot where you want turn it on to test and once you get it down into the right spot then you can just come in and tighten down that screw not over tighten just tighten down till it gets to the point where it's hand tight and that's going to be how you can make a good yoke adjustment and let's go back now and take a look at the 20l5 again all right back here again at the back of the 20l5 and you can see right away how much bigger again this yoke assembly is so again we'll need to loosen that one screw a little bit and this one's going to need to probably come back a touch because i had a hard time even getting it to wiggle we'll set up our calibration screen later and we'll move this into place because that's the biggest thing is getting the yoke set and then you can pretty much make all the rest of the adjustments on this monitor from the service menu some other things that are similar on this monitor to others is if you follow your line here their high voltage line there let's go and look at it from the side here we're looking at the flyback right here still not as easy to get to as the 20l2 but it is side service so there is a way to get a smaller screwdriver in there and service it but please note on here a lot of times when you get these monitors open you'll see silicone was originally put on the back of some of these things that are adjustable okay so the service tech would set the potentiometer here potentiometer and the setting on the screen and then they come back here and silicone it in hopes that it wouldn't come out of adjustment and it was hopefully one time adjustment for most monitors now occasionally you will need to tighten up your focus on here which is usually the top one if you're noticing this blurry now this one does have a focus setting that you can do from the sub menu so you should always try those sub menu settings first but older monitors do not have a sub setting for focus so you may have to tighten up that top one and then the bottom one controls brightness so if over time you have an older tube and it starts to go dim you can always come back here and turn up the brightness just a touch or and and help extend the use of that tube but just know that that is a case sometimes where the tube starts to get darker if you have you might need to turn that up over after it's aged some and some other things to look around around here again this is very tight put together so this one has no issues that I could tell that won't be a changeable from the sub menu so we will still want to get in here and probably change out the capacitors at least on this deflection board where my finger is which will mean a whole tear down of this monitor so we'll get going around back here we've got our video inputs and again this is a standard input for this monitor a lot like the 20L2 actually exactly like the 20L2 so you've got your RGB component and mono audio and let's take a look now and see if I can get a shot of it's very hard to maybe see if you can see the shininess down here under the yoke that's actually the mono speaker all the way under the deflection board right there at the base of the monitor I know it's hard to see from this camera angle way down there that's where the mono speaker is so it's not on the front or the sides of the back it's actually down there again a lot of this stuff has been put together and cramped in a little bit tighter you got a lot of lines connecting the boards this board back here is controlling your input card and most likely you won't need to worry about the capacitors on something like this going bad it's not a high use board in the monitor and so taking it apart and doing capacitor kit is probably not necessary unless you notice something leaking the most important things are going to be there's a few capacitors here on this neck board that if you took it apart you'd want to change the deflection board area down there and then if you have any kind of issues with power you can check these down here next to the fly back to bring it in the power but also this power board here could be having an issue with capacitors and those could be changed that's a lot of capacitors again but if you wanted to have every capacitor you might want to do the power board as well as the deflection board one and two and then the of course the neck board also if you were doing the deflection board so for now that's going to be our extensive look at the inside of this monitor initially just to say again please make sure you clean it even if that's all you do is just open it up clean it after you get your monitor and put it back together and then run it for tests this is the way I usually always go in this steps to service a monitor when I first get it I I do what I did in the first video where we took it apart you know we just looked at it initially tested it a little bit and then I always turn it off clean it and then I get back into testing it more before it's ready to either be repaired or sent out and to be used on a full-time basis one more thing to show you here I did go ahead and take the whole bezel off again and so when you've got this bezel off here it's great time to what I did was I cleaned really good around the monitor and I cleaned around the bezel too you just used alcohol and Windex and it just did a fantastic job of cleaning that bezel up and the screen up it looks brand new so that's going to do it for today's second look at this video in the next video since we've got this one cleaned and ready to go we're going to put it back into the service mode I'm going to talk about what I use to calibrate my calibration software and then we're going to go straight into calibration so the third video will be just starting right in with the geometry calibrations and depending on how long that one is we might need to separate the color calibration videos into number four and then we'll keep going on and keep getting more episodes into deeper servicing on the 20L5 but thanks again and please leave a like if you really like the content and look forward to more content from Retro Tech