 Seven, six, five, four, three, two, one, go. Chill, never have anything. What's up guys, welcome to the vlog. Today we're on day four in a row of doing the vlog. Thank you guys for the encouragement out there. It really helps as I push this thing along. It's about to be a busy Friday today. I got a lot of hair to do. So I wanted to do something really cool and quick for you guys. I also got a question that was submitted by one of the people that watches the vlog. So I want to go over that question, break it down in depth. And I think it's going to help you guys a lot. We're going to talk about the difference today between concave and convex. How you can tell the difference and also a stationary guide and traveling guide because I do talk about those things a lot in every haircut that I do, but I don't necessarily go in depth to what they are. So we're going to start off, the question comes from Allison Parker asks for someone that is fresh out of hair school, what is a good way of remembering the differences between concave and convex haircuts? Also, mobile and stationary guides. So Allison, I want to dedicate this vlog to your question. I would also love to hear other people's questions in the comments below. So if there's something that you don't understand in a vlog or that you want to see in a future vlog because you don't understand the technique, post that below and I will try to create a video around it. That's where next year, I want to create a lot more vlogs, a lot more education. We have a lot of big things coming up. I keep talking about that. There will be an announcement coming up in the next couple months. So let's get started with the breakdown of concave and convex. Now the breakdown of concave and convex is pretty simple. Either haircut's going to be concave or it's going to be convex. It's just understanding what that means. So convex is an outward build of weight. So if you look at this haircut right here, this is a built up of weight. It follows the head shape a little bit more. There's nothing collapsing in the haircut. So this is a convex shape. If you look at this haircut, this one caves in. You can see it scoop in and come out. This is the weight collapsing within a haircut. Now the only thing is that you have to figure out is it's not necessarily a concave haircut and a convex haircut as a big picture. It's section by section. So do you want the back to be concave and then do you want to create a convex top? There's a lot of different combinations that go into haircutting that I think a lot of people don't think about. They don't really go that deep into it. They just think if I hold my hand up like this and I elevate my elbow, now I'm creating a concave haircut. But that's not really the case. It's section by section. So if you look at the haircuts that I do, I break it down into either square, rectangle, triangular columns within the haircut and then I decide what I want that part of the head shape to do. So in this particular haircut, I wanted to collapse the bottom, but then I wanted to build this nice, I have this nice buildup of weight around the crown area. So that's the big difference. I created convex on top and then I created concave on the bottom which skinnied out the bottom of the haircut and then I also went through and I softened the haircut using that texturizing technique. There's a lot of different aspects to a haircut that you can do to create multi-dimensional looks within the haircut. Now the second part to Allison's question was how do you determine stationary guide and a traveling guide? Now we talked about this before. Anytime you have a stationary guide, you're pulling the hair all the way to one point. We did it in this haircut. You can see that there's one side is quite a bit longer. That's because we worked with a stationary guide. We overdirected everything to the back center and it just pushes all that weight forward. Now what that does is it doesn't build as much structure within a haircut. Because I was overdirecting everything over, what happens is I get too much of a buildup of weight too quick and then it just starts to fall because gravity is naturally gonna pull it down. If you have a traveling guide which was grabbing one section, bringing it over and then grabbing your next section, bringing it to the previous and you just move across the head shape. The difficult thing about a traveling guide is the fact that you are traveling. So because you're traveling throughout the head shape becomes a little bit more difficult. Obviously a stationary guide where you're pulling everything to one point is a lot easier than trying to pull everything a half an inch over, a half an inch over, half an inch over, half an inch over. So if you look at stationary guide means that you're gonna build up more weight and a traveling guide means that you're going to travel with the weight and then drop it off somewhere. So real quick, I wanna show you guys because I can tell you until I'm blue in the face but until I show you, you might not quite understand what I'm talking about, plus I tend to not make sense. All right, so what we're gonna do is I'm gonna first part the mannequin. I'm gonna part the mannequin right down the left hand side. So what I'm gonna do is cut concave on this side and convex on this side. I'm gonna cut concave with a stationary guide here and convex with a traveling guide on this side. I'm gonna start off by taking about a half inch section and what I'm gonna do is follow the head shape this way. You can see I'm pushing the guide or pushing the hair away from me and I'm just gonna work around the head shape. So that builds that round feel to the hair. So you can see it. To work with a traveling guide, what I'm gonna do is take half of what I just cut, move it out of the way and then grab the other half and I'm gonna push this new section just halfway over to the previous and start cutting there. So I can see my guide. So I was here with the first section, now I'm cutting here because I'm traveling and working my way up the head shape. Same thing, grab half of that section, push the rest over, grab a new section. New parting, bring it over to the previous. So the reason this is called a traveling guide is because now, as I work through the head, I'm now traveling and what we talked about was it builds a stronger base, right? A more consistent base. You can see the consistency in those layers that are happening. So the best way to think about a traveling guide and I've talked about this before is think about center back at six o'clock then you have seven o'clock, you have eight o'clock and then you have nine o'clock. So if I'm traveling, I'm going from six o'clock to seven o'clock. So seven o'clock's gonna come back to six then you have eight back to seven, nine back to eight and so on and so forth. That's how you're traveling because you're taking a little bit, leaving it behind and going with it as you work across. Now we're gonna work with concave and with a stationary guide and I'm gonna show you guys the difference. So same thing, start off with a half inch section but now what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna comb the hair out and then to create that concave shape. So here would be layering 90 degrees out from the head shape. So to shift that more than 90 degrees which is what would start to collapse this haircut I'm going to shift my elbow like this and cut short to long like this. Then once we do that we get our short pieces, we get our longer piece. So that's where you get that caved in feel to the haircut and now that this is stationary I'm gonna bring everything over to that point, over direct it, kick up my elbow, cut short to long and just work my way all the way around the head shape over directing everything over and cutting short to long. The cool thing about what we're doing right now is we're cutting concave so we're removing a lot of weight and pushing it all forward. So it's really gonna be a real choppy kind of layered effect to the haircut. So just working our way around the head shape bringing everything around, shifting that elbow up and cutting short to long. So it's got a really cool feel to the haircut because we did follow the head shape here so it's nice and soft layers but then it starts to collapse and create a lot of texture over to this side which had a lot of weight because of how we cut it in the previous video. So it's got a really cool look. I think honestly you could take this for a haircut on its own but if you're looking to understand more about concave and convex layers definitely just search concave layering on our YouTube channel and you'll be able to pull up videos where we do a lot of concave in different haircut. All right guys, so I hope that you like that video let me know if you like the style of the video I know it's a little bit different but then do the voiceover obviously I'll get back to that when we do the full haircuts but I love to hear your feedback. Also, if there's any techniques or anything that you're looking to learn post that in the comments below as well and if you haven't subscribed to this channel make sure you subscribe, that would be great. Also, if you're looking to upgrade your kit check out our selection of Mizetani scissors YS Park combs, Ergo brushes, Vibra straight irons, carving combs, tons and tons of tools and great deals on freesaloneducation.com thank you guys for watching I really appreciate the support out there and I look forward to getting to know you more in the comments and on all of our social media thank you guys for watching we'll see you on the next video, thanks.