 Okie dokie then guys. Today we've got another one of these little clock things. Now this one's only got a dozen parts. It comes with a little, a little, a set of instructions from picture form and it comes with a parts list to connect that up to. There you go, I think you can see better from there. So on this side it will say, let's say, it says C3. Oh it also says 30, 30 piece. If I look on the back here, C3. Yep, it's 30 piece. I think 30 piece required. 1, 2, 3, 4, to 9 are all 1k transistors. Let me just look a little back here. Oh and we're using the same 80, 89, C20, 51 chip. Now I can't remember if this works, sorry it doesn't work. No it doesn't work. I don't remember now. This is based on a PIC 1, 2, 9, 6. Oh there we go. This is a PIC 16F6280 chip. But anyway, of course we've got these other two. These are the two that don't work. They don't work as possibly something I've done. I've been on the board every now and then. I can't see it. I've taken lots of photos, sent them back and the video to the people who sold it to me. They can't work out what's wrong with it. So they've refunded me, which is, you know, okay I suppose. So this one's a lot more simpler affair. We've got a display of course. One of those little annoying sounds. And as I can see automatically this is going to be more than useless on the basis of it doesn't have any sort of battery backup. So you've got to be reliant on having a good power source. The, please, remove seal after washing. The legs are a bit bent upon this, but we can sort that out. That's not a biggie. They tend to come a lot worse than this, to be fair. The chip itself, apart from one leg, which has been inwards, is fine. The app now chip again, send us what's in those other two. No. A little bit concerning, unless this is it, the resistor. One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine. This could be it. But this is like a bank of resistors. And I'm going to presume this is this. I'm going to presume that this is this. You can see that. This sort of bank of resistors here. The process of elimination is going to set this thing. It's only going to fit into one slot. It looks like it's going to fit in there. So, yeah. OK. Without further ado, let's get on and build it. Just right before I do the build. This is a C-51 four-bit digital electric clock electronic production suite. DIY kit. This is what it says on the description. I think it's got more as well. DIY kits FT. Well, I've got no idea what the FT means. But yeah, that's what it says. I bought it off eBay for £1.62, including the shipping. So, let's see what it can do. Press the button. This looks like a very quick straight forward. Very quick, straightforward build. There seems to only be two of these normal resistors. Very simple build, this one. Very, very simple. It's just sometimes notice actually. It requires another resistor, which doesn't actually seem to be here. I need two 10K. Oh no, sorry, that's my mistake. It requires two 10K resistors, and I have the two 10K resistors here. I'm going to put the little capacitors on now because it's 104. I love it when they just mark what they are here. I mean, I don't know how many of these kits I've built. I've not videoed them all, because when I first started building the kits, I didn't even think about videoing them. And I think people would have laughed at me anyway, because I was checking every single component. I didn't know how to read the markings on capacitors, like I do now. And so I'd be checking and double checking and having to pull out a sheet of paper with all the different ways of looking at a capacitor, instead of just seeing 10103. I'd have to then convert that. So now it's 10,000, it's 10 nano, and 10,000 pico, and of course I'll work it out like that. So I think we can populate this entire board in one file soup, which will make them nice and quick. They certainly do like these 8-5-5-0 chips, don't they? There are friends out there in Asia. They do, they do, they do. Let me just rest our on something that'll do. Oh, safety first. We must put the extraction fan on. Recycled extraction fan, which actually works very, very well. It's carbon-filtered. But it won't work if I don't actually pull it up. Around my lamp, because I have all this set up here. So I can, there it is on there again. So I can move it out the way when it's not in use. So it doesn't just sit in the way. It's probably a bit of a weird one about what goes on my body, me. I really don't like the idea. You know, I really don't like the idea of where I am. The LEDs or whatever else that's in here is probably not very good for you to be breathing in. So, having some sort of extractor. Or something to blow the fumes away is a must really. I don't know if you can hear the airband radio in the background. I don't know if it's just the pilot that gets to talk on the radio, but that was a lady driving an airplane. And before anybody says you don't drive an airplane, you fly it. I know. I was just wondering whether she knew she was driving it or flying it. So all you ladies out there that really, I've looked at the stats, I don't get so many lady viewers. But for any of you out there, please don't be too offended. I mean, that's why I've got the airband on. Because if there's ladies flying the airplanes, if they're going to crash one into my place, I've got the airband on so I can hear it coming so I can get out of the building quick. I'm sure they'll be fine. It's only if they have to start doing, you know, reversing around corners or parking. I'm sure that when they pull up in the airplane, at the airport somebody else will jump in and park it for them. See how much hate I get thrown at me for saying that. Yeah, there we go. Well, this isn't that far. I've been completely saved up to last because there's no, on the capacitor, there's no area marked where you put the negative side. It's just got a little positive marking for the positive side. And of course it's the long leg on a new capacitor that will go to the positive side. Now this thing looks like it's polaritised. Ah, that's right, it is. And I can sort of see why it says it wants a wash, but that's a bit dirty really. I don't really like that. It's a bit mucky. A bit more mucky than what I'd expect. What can you do? What can you do? I've just started putting a little circuit together for a tube valve. For a tube valve? For a tube amplifier. I'm going to use the 12AX7, as it's set in the States. But over here we call it the ECC83, I think. Yep, the ECC83. We're going to preamp and build a little stereo preamp on 12 volts. Quite looking forward to that. That's going to keep falling out on me. I'm sure it's going to be the most awkward piece to put in now. It's going to be this little bag of resistives. Oops. Should I turn that a little bit over here? I don't know if you can see it or not, probably. I hope so. Once I've done this, I'm going to go and hunt some more kits. I've bought a whole bunch of DSO. The DSO on three irons. I've built quite a few of those for people. I've built a whole bunch more. I'll actually build one on film. Because they're not bad. At the end of the day, they're only toys. You can't. I don't think you should really look at this as a professional thing. Now, I know a fella that I sold one to. He's a reverend in a church. And he's going to use it for tuning or helping tune or do some work with the organ. I think that's the only... I think for little things, you can use my supplies. I'm not sure about what they're going to be really like in a professional environment. Like I say, I've built, I don't know, about eight or nine of them. At least. And I wouldn't use one personally. There's a little bit too much noise on there for my liking. Okay. So, we've just got these switches. Little momentaries. Is it going well? If I can get enough sold on land. Yeah, for anybody that's thinking about building these kits, getting a relatively decent soldering station, I would say it's going to take a lot of headache out of putting these little kits together. Because what I've found is if you can't keep a stable temperature, it can be quite frustrating. Because what it tends to do is if it gets too warm, it just heats the tips up too much. And then you tip stuck in, you know, black and dark and and scratchy. And then you can't solder properly. You know, it doesn't just flow in nicely. And that's quite a big frustration. At least it was for me. So, I found that using 0.5 and below my favorite is 0.3 soldered. This is 0.5 I'm using at the minute. Because it's just a wide cord cheap and cheerful little kit. But if I was putting together one of the frequency generators, the little F80, FG085s, then I would use the 0.3. And for the DS0138, the 0.3 again because it's just nicer. It's easier to work with. You do tend to use a bit more of it. That's because it's smaller. But it means that your soldered joints are so, you know, they're perfect. And that's what you want. I mean, you want to be able to look at the little, the soldered joints afterwards and think, yeah, that's nice. I always think you've got to try and send them out as you'd expect to receive them in. And having nice little soldered joints. You can see that very well. I think it makes it a lot nicer. I've got to cut the pins off there, the legs off there. Yeah, so let's not put that chip on just yet. Let's put the power input on. It's nicely marked on the back, positive and negative, so you can't make a mistake there. And then we've got our crystal. 12 megahertz. 12 megahertz crystal, and that's it. That's the whole thing soldered off. That's 13 minutes, mind. Well, I suppose, you know, if you don't chin wag, if you don't chin wag, you can do it a bit quicker. So, all right, let's nip those off. I don't know if I've shown people before these. They're made by Kerrigan Comey. Made in Italy, anyway. But they're very, very nice, very, very easy to use, very, very nice in the hands, nice to cut with, very controllable. And just the perfect size, and the angle is very nice on them. Let's get in nice and tight. Yeah, definitely recommend those. I wouldn't recommend there's lots of things that I've used over these last six months. And I tend to just use these for doing the boards. I've got other ones for general. They're just general. And then if I've really got a problem with cutting something, I've got these, and using these, I don't have that problem for very long. These are great for cutting out the pins or flybacks when you want to make yourself a high-voltage power supply. That's exactly what I bought them for. This is, you can see there's little dots down the bottom and the colons here. And there's a little dot down the bottom here, so I'm pretty convinced that it all goes down the bottom as it would. A bit of a regular, regular clark. You might have to fiddle about with the pins a little bit as they don't really line up. That's fine. That's why we have tweezers. Even though those ones seem to be more and much more than useless. A second ago, it was just one pin out of alignment. No, it's the whole lot. So here we go. Look at that. Get one in alignment the whole lot going. Great stuff. Bend them out slightly. Bend them out slightly just in case anybody ever tries to take these off, just to make the lock a bit difficult. That's what we've got so far. Stick a bit of solder on the back of these. And yeah. It's the flux, I think, that makes it a mess. I keep my solder station on for this thickness solder of 325. And if I need the soldering iron to stay on, but I'm not using it all the time, I always flick it down to 150 degrees. It doesn't seem to mine there. It doesn't seem to burn up anything on the tip. You've got nothing to clean up when you go back to use it again. And I also have one of these things as well. Because that does help rather than just bend it into the sponge all the time. Because that does make a nice silver tip. Soldering iron. And I do like the cable that's on this. I don't think it's a silicon, but it feels a little bit like silicon. But I don't think it'll be the same as some of the other silicon things, which you find it very hard to tangle up. Right, so let's get this chip on the right way round. It's got the little marker. We'll just line those up. And then we'll look to the line until I get to put it on. Right down on that flat surface. Yep, I reckon that should get in. So we'll check again that it's lined up currently. Let's do a little bit of a coax in there. Check the other side there. Yep, okay, that's in. Now, let me just check that I soldered everything. And that I did. I just nipped these legs off. These are legs at a time. And apart from the... I don't know what's on this, but it looks just a little bit dodgy. I'll give it a wipe off. Apart from that, it all looks... Okay, so, should we power it up and see what happens? What's the voltage? I don't know what the voltage is. Okay, it doesn't say there. So let me just have a little check. Here. And the voltage is... Yeah, got like a million adverts first. Three and six volts. Well, between three and six volts. Okay. So we can use this five volt supply there. And let's wipe off. Swip these off here. Positive to the outside, wasn't it? Negative to the inside. Yeah. So these are screwed in tight to make sure I presume that none of the screws are lost. Pretty hell. Not as helpful as what you might like, but there we go. We're in. I'm a bit concerned about what's on this speaker bit here. I'm not a germ effect, but just... I just don't want to get any, you know... What we'd be calling in this country exotic problems. Okay, right. So I've restricted 300 millivolts, which should be plenty enough of this little circuit. It's on five volts on the output. And I'm about to turn the power on now. So let's do that together. Three, two, one. Power on. And what have we got? What have we got? We have a stable. That's pretty cool. I like that. It's not just flashing. It's not doing anything on toward. It's not telling the correct time as such, but that doesn't matter. I'm sure it's all adjustable. Okay, that looks like a stopwatch. It's counting down. It's counting up. It started at 59 minutes and 52 seconds. A little bit annoying. I don't know how to switch it off. What would be nice is to know how to change the time. But what we can actually say is there is definitely life out of this and it does look like it's doing it. Yeah, that's just counting. Okay, right. So it's 223 over here. That'll be 1423. And it got to 2300. So what I've got to do is look at... Well, that's quite mad. On the actual camera for the clock, it just said 2300 at the same time as I did this. That was quite freaky because I thought it was telling the same time, but that's just the timer on the camera. It said this video is 23 minutes long already. So, okay. I'm going to have a little fiddle around with this off camera and see if I can get it to go to the correct time. I'll presume this may be being a alarm or something. D-E-F-G-H-I-J. No, it goes up to I. I've got no idea what that's about, but I did notice on the G, the LED didn't light up. But as it does light up there, I don't think it's a problem with the LED. I think it's just a problem with, you know, this. But anyway, even though I don't know how to work it, I'm going to give this to a little kitty. Two seconds, they'd have it. Okay. We've now got the time of 704. I don't know how we got there, but it does allow you to adjust the time. It does work. It's fully functional. We can say that this one is a building success. Thanks for watching. Bye. Oh, and just to say, just because I'm finished now, the last thing I want to do is give my tip a little wipe. Drop a little bit of solder on there. Just so there's a nice little blob at the end. As you can see, my extractor working. Can you see how well that's... What the... My life, it's going to do that at every hour. Can you imagine having a little clock like that? Yep. Well, I'm glad to say this clock, I think the only time it's going to get used is I might give it to my grandson. Nah. That's a bit of a fail. Unless you can turn that noise off, it needs every hour. That's not very good. But anyway, that's it. Bye, y'all.