 For this tutorial, I'm going to use a bodice with a side seam dart and a waist dart. Next, I'm gonna trace my bodice on a pattern keeper. From the bust point, I'm gonna extend a horizontal line and this line is the bust level. Next, from the bust point, extend a vertical line touching the shoulder level. Next, get the one-foot measurement of the vertical line. For example, my measurement is 9 3 8s inches or 24 cm. I will divide this by 4 equals to 2 3 8s inches or 6 cm. By the way, use your own measurement for this one. From the bust level, I'm gonna mark up 2 3 8s inches or 6 cm. This is the guideline for the neckline. Next, from these marks, I'm gonna draft a horizontal line. From the bust point, I'm gonna mark up 1 2 8s inches or 3 cm. From the neckline at vertical line, mark out 3 8s or 1 cm each side. From these marks, connect slant lines towards the bust point. Next, from the center front at bust level, mark out 3 8s or 1 cm each side. From these marks, connect slant lines going towards bust point. From bust point, mark down the under bust measurement, example 2 4 8s inches or 6.3 cm. Mind you that my measurement is different from yours. From the under bust marks, mark out 3 8s or 1 cm each side. Again, from these marks, connect slant lines going towards the waist. From these marks, draft curved lines going towards bust point. Next, decrease the side seam by 4 8s or 1.2 cm. And close the side seam dart permanently. From the 4 8s or 1.2 cm mark, draw a slant line going towards the waist. And as you guys can see, I will cut out the waist dart till bust point so I can draft easily. And I will close the dart at the bust level permanently. And we are done with the contouring principle for the bustier. Let's move on to the first technique of the bustier with bust cups. From center front at bust level, mark in 3 8s or 1 cm. And mark up 4 8s or 1.2 cm. From the 3 8s or 1 cm mark, draw a curved line connecting to the under bust mark at dart leg. From side seam at arm hole, mark down 4 8s or 1.2 cm. And from the new side seam, mark in 1 inch or 2.5 cm. And connect this mark going towards the under bust mark at dart leg. Next, I'm gonna close the dart at the neckline or the style line. Next, at the 1 inch or 2.5 cm mark, I'm gonna draw a curved line connecting 2 3 8s or 1 cm mark at center front. From the neckline or style line, I'm gonna mark down 1 4 8s or 3.8 cm. And I made it short to hit the dart. Next, I'm gonna connect these marks and draw another curved line, like this one. And I'm just going to cut out the dart to make my pattern flat. I'm gonna cut out and separate my patterns. Next, I'm gonna combine the lower part of the bustier together. Like this one. For the bust cups, I'm going to adjust the bust point areas. From the bust point or bust level, mark out 2 8s or 0.6 cm. From these marks, draw curved lines blending towards the original lines or draft. And we are done with the first technique for the bustier with bust cups. Et voila! This is my pattern for the first technique of bustier with bust cups. Here's the side. And here's the front. Next, let's move on to the second technique. For the second technique, I used the same contouring principle, disregarding the curved lines and the 1 2 8s mark up at the bust point. From center front at bust level, mark up and mark down 5 8s or 1.5 cm. From the 5 8s or 1.5 cm mark, draw a curved line connecting to the under bust mark at dart leg. From the 5 8s or 1.5 cm mark, draw a curved line connecting at the neckline dart. Next, from the under bust mark, draw a straight horizontal line going towards the side seam. From the neckline dart, draw a style line connecting at the side seam or armhole. Do this by freehand. Close the neckline dart permanently. From the Empire line or the straight horizontal line at side seam, mark up 1 inch or 2.5 cm. From the 1 inch or 2.5 cm mark, connect a straight line to the bust point, like this one. Next, I'm gonna cut out and separate my patterns. And I'm gonna combine the lower part of the bustier together. Next, I'm gonna cut the bust cups in half and combine the lower bust cups together. For the bust cups, I'm going to adjust the bust point areas, just like what we did earlier. From the bust point, mark out 2 8s or 1.6 cm. From this mark, draw a curved line blending towards the original lines or draft of the bust level. For the upper cup, let's do the same procedure. For this second technique, we only have 2 bust cups, an upper one and the lower one. And we are done with the second technique. Voila! So this is my pattern for the second technique of the bustier with bust cups. Here is the side and here is the front. By the way guys, comment down below which bustier you prefer to make. And please comment down below if you have any questions about this tutorial. Don't forget to give this video a huge thumbs up and subscribe to my YouTube channel La Modelista and I'll see you guys again on the next tutorial. A Piento!