 Today, we're going to be unboxing and assembling Naomi Woo's 3D Printmill from Creality. My name's Jim and this is the Edge of Tech. So like I said, today we're going to be unboxing and assembling the 3D Printmill from Creality. And thanks to Naomi Woo, she made this happen along with some awesome other people in our community. I am absolutely pumped to get this. Naomi had this sent to me. I also backed the Kickstarter, so I'm looking for a Kickstarter one as well. But I wanted to get this video out about the assembly before the Kickstarter started shipping. That way you guys can check out the video and know what you're in for before your printers get here. There have been a lot of great videos about the 3D Printmill on YouTube already. But all of them have been like reviews. This is going to be an unboxing and assembly only. So like many of my videos, hopefully it'll be quick, straight to the point and get the job done. Well, I'm super pumped to do this. Let's get this thing unboxed. Maybe you can tell by how I'm filming how excited I am. So real quick, while you're unboxing this, the top gantry is connected to the bottom. So be very careful when you're taking this all out because they really have to come out together. It doesn't look like there's a way to disconnect it. That's okay, just be very careful at this point because this all has to come out together. You'll see it in a second. Here we go. All right, I got it out. It's all on the table now, which is awesome. I just wanted to point out that you want to make sure that you look everywhere in the foam before you get rid of anything. So I was just kind of looking around and under this piece here, I'm going to show you, under that piece there is your spool holder. Down in here, if you pull that out, there's your Bowdoin tube. So make sure you get that stuff out, make sure you get everything out before you throw this away. Oh, I just fell more. So I pulled the piece out of here and there's another extrusion there. Feels pretty light now. I don't think I see anything else. Just be careful while you're unpacking this. Make sure you get everything out and you're not leaving anything in. This is actually a piece that was covering that extrusion. I didn't even know it was there. And then this piece was covering the spool holder. I didn't know that was there either. So make sure you get everything out of your packaging. Now let's build it. All right. Let's go over what we got. We got bags of nuts and bolts. We have a couple of extrusions. We have the power cord. We have the classic tools that come with the Creality printers, which are your wrenches, screwdriver, some Allen wrenches. In this box here, we have a snips. Right here, we have a .1 feeler gauge it looks like. We have an extra photoscentric switch there. If we come over here, we have some extra couplers, the SD card. We have the manual, a little spool of the White Creality filament, some extra boat and tube. Then if we come up over here, this is the base of the print mill. This thing is a beast. It is heavy and hard to get out of the box. If you have two people, that would be good. And this is going to be the gantry of the print mill when we get it ready. So that is a quick look at what comes with this printer. Now it's time to get it together. So step number one, we need four of these right here, and they're the M5x12 hex socket screws. We need the Allen wrench to go with it here, and we need our two uprights right here. So what we're going to do is we're going to take one of your uprights, we're going to put it right there. And we're going to get these screwed in, and there are two holes at each go in. Now what you want to make sure is that the one that's plain is on this side, and then the one on that side will actually have your filament runout sensor. So you want to make sure the filament runout sensor is on the right side. So take four of these M5x12 screws, these two uprights, and let's get these on. So like I said, on this side, we want to make sure the filament runout sensor is on the right when you're facing the machine. So let's do that now. Now you can see we have our screws in each one of these, and we're good to move on to step number two. So for the next steps, we need the XY belt assembly right here. We need the base of the machine. We need eight of these M5x18 bolts. We need two of the M5 hexagon socket screws that are in this bag. And we need two of the M5x45 hexagon socket screws in that bag. So the first thing we want to do is take our XY belt assembly, and we're just going to bring it on up and set it into place. And you can see what is into place because there's some corner brackets here that fit together on both sides. So we got it up now, and I'm going to bring you a little closer to show how it fits. So I took you down so you can kind of see how that corner bracket is going to meet up at the bottom. And this is the back of the assembly like that. So the corner bracket will meet down there, and we'll put some screws into there. And then up top here, we are going to take those long ones, and they're going to go right through here. So on the front, you can see that bracket right there. And that went over the top of the two uprights we just put on. So it just kind of sits there. Now there's a hole there, as you can see there, and there's a hole in the side, and those are going to be attached as well. So the first thing we're going to do is take our really long M5x45, we got two of those. We're going to push them down through here, and we're going to get them screwing in to the extrusions that are down below there. Now you should feel them bite in, and you want to be careful, you don't want to over-tighten these, but you want to make sure they are good and tight. Once you've got these two started by hand, like that, grab the big Allen wrench here, and let's use the small side, and let's just get these tightened down in. Now it's always a good idea to leave them just a little loose at this time. So I'm going to go just a tight, and then back it up just a little bit. And then I'm going to do this side as well. So I'm going to go all the way in, and then I'm going to leave it just a little bit loose, because when we do those bottom corners, I want to make sure we can move this a little bit if needed. And then we'll come back and finish tightening those up. So those are almost all the way tight, I backed them out just a little bit. Now let's go to the bottom corners. For the next step, we're going to go down in that corner. I'm going to start with the right corner. Now we need three of those M5x18 bolts, and we're going to put them in these slots here. Now this is very important that these are lined up, and you do not strip these out, because it's going into the side of that extrusion. So I got down with this camera angle so you can see through here. You want to make sure that these are perfectly lined up, and they screw in by hand before you tighten them. So if you take and you screw them in, you may have to adjust a little bit. And if your table is not exactly flat, if it goes in crooked like this, you want to pull that back out and start over. So you want to make sure these go in by hand about almost all the way before you tighten these in. Don't strip these. Be very careful. So I'm going to do that carefully. I'm going to put these three screws in, and then I'm going to go to the other side and do the same thing. So remember, you can hold these here, and you can manipulate how this sits. So these screw in really nice. Just make sure you get them straight. Okay, future gym here. In a second you're going to see me take this M5x8 and put it right up in the bottom here to help finish this step. The step where we install these here. But the problem is I grabbed the wrong screw. It needs to be this M5x12 hexagon socket screw. Not the silver one, not the cap head. It needs to be this one right here. There's going to be one on this side and one on the other side. They go in right up to the bottom. You're going to see me install that in a second. But I want to point out that it's real easy to mix up your screws if you're in a rush. And I got filming and I totally grabbed the wrong one. So I didn't want to edit that out. I want to show you that it happens to everybody. If you do it, just pull them back out and start over. Just put the right ones in. But use this one, not this one, to go right up under here. So the next thing you want to do is take an M5x12 and put it right up through the bottom. Now these are the three we just did here. And there's an M5x12 that goes right up in here. Now on this side, I had to put the M5x12 in before these three would fit right. But they all eventually fit right. Just take your time and don't strip them out. They'll all go in. So we'll put an M5x12 in under here. And then we'll do another one on the other side. Now that we got those bottom ones in, we want to come here to the front and the two corners here. Take your M5x18 and at this time it really should go in pretty easy. Everything's coming together really nice. It's going to screw in there most of the time really easily because right now you have a pretty solid frame with all these bolts in it. So I'm going to do the left side just like this and then I'm going to tighten these down. Okay, so now I got both of these in and it's important to tell you, always use the small side of your Allen wrench to tighten these bolts in. You just don't want to strip the other side and it's really easy to do with these cheap Allen wrenches. So now I'm going to tighten this one in with the small side and then I'm going to go back and tighten all the bolts we just put in. Make sure they're good and tight. Don't over tighten them, don't strip them, but make sure they're good and tight. Maybe just a quarter turn past tight so they're not going to come out. So we'll go back through and just tighten everything we just did and we'll be right back. Now on the side of the printer we're going to take our spool holder here. We're going to take two M5x8 bolts and we're going to push them right through the holes in that spool holder. So they go in like that and like that. Then we're going to take our two T-nuts and we're going to put the big side towards the bottom. So you can see right here the big side here is towards the bottom and it has a little lip and that goes towards the top and we're going to just screw them on just a couple of threads just to get them started and those T-nuts are in and now what we need to do is attach this to the frame. So I'm going to turn my T-nuts both the same way here. Then I'm going to flip this over and set it right into the frame. And if your T-nuts stay, there we go, and if your T-nuts stay you should be just like that. Then what we want to do is take our Allen wrench behind here and just tighten these down so it's nice and tight. So you want to push it as far forward this way as it can go I believe just to make sure it's out of the way here. Get it about right there, grab your Allen wrench and just screw them in from the back and make sure the T-nuts catch, make sure it gets tight. So I kind of spin them a little bit fast just to make sure and once it's down, take the other side, come over here and just tighten them down just like we did all the other bolts. Now your spool holder is on. So I just want to point out that I got this tight and it was pretty easy to do. And I've seen a bunch of reviews on these and they all said they were loose. Well in this model, which I believe is very close or could even be a production model, it is really nice and tight. I didn't have to put any shims or washers or anything in there. The screws are not bottoming out. And it's really nice and tight in there unless I really crank it. I really appreciate Crowdy for listening to all the reviewers out there and fixing that because I know these were pretty loose for some people. Now we're at the front right of the machine here. We need the screen. We need two more of the same bolts we used in the last one and the T-nuts. We're going to put the T-nuts on here just like we did with the spool holder. So the screw will go through here, T-nut on the back. Then we're going to attach the screen right to the front extrusion right here with those T-nuts. So it's going to sit about right there. So let's do that now. Let's grab your screws, get your T-nuts on them and get them secured right to the front right here. So T-nuts are on. I'm going to slide it right into the extrusion, grab my Allen wrench here. I'm going to use the big side to spin it. And that should catch it just like that. Same thing here. Spin it around so it catches. Use the little side and just tighten it down to make sure, whoo! Use the little side and tighten it down just to make sure that it's got a good, wow, use the little side and then just tighten it down. Just to make sure it's good and tight, you always want to use, my God. Tighten that down, make sure it's good and tight, and you're good to go. The last step is always to peel your plastic. Now we need to start connecting cables. The first thing we do is make sure the back of your screen is all pushed in and nice, everything seated good back there. Now grab your boat and tube and push it down into the coupler as far as it goes, make sure it's nice and tight there. Now we have the filament run out center that's right below your extruder. You can take this cable and you can plug it right into the side right there. And it should run right down along the frame here just like that. In the back right of the machine here, you'll find a couple of cables here. We need to connect those for your Y access switch. So get those connected and push them in. It'll clip when it's done and then you're good there. And those should tuck in nicely in the back of the extrusion right there. Something else I saw right here, this cable went around the spool holder here. And I don't like that. It needs to go behind there. And there's a nice cable management piece right here. So I need to take the screen off quick and make sure the cable here goes behind the spool holder. You don't want your cable in front of the spool holder like this. Now that you can see the cable goes behind the spool holder, it fits nicely into that cable management piece they have here. These are actually cable management pieces. So you'll put your zip tie through the bottom like this through the holes. Put your cable on top of that and then zip tie that right down to that cable management piece. Then you're going to take the blue snips you got in your kit and just clip that off just like that. So there's a few of these around the machine. So anytime you can use them, that's a great idea. So there's another one of those right here. So I'm going to grab a zip tie and I'm going to push my zip tie through. And in this case, I'm going to bring these cables up. I don't want to stress them, but I'm going to bring them up like that. And I'm going to get this one out of the way too. So you can really clean these up really nicely. Just get your zip tie in there. I know it's kind of hard to see with my fingers in the way, but get your zip tie up in there. Get them started. You don't want to pull these too tight from the bottom. So make sure there's a little bit of slack. But what's nice about these is it doesn't really tighten them down and they can travel in here. But it keeps them out of the way so they're nice and clean. And then always grab your snips and cut those flush so it looks really nice. Now that the build is done and we cleaned up our cables, we need to level the bed. Now to do this, it is a little bit different. Actually, it's a lot a bit different than doing it on a regular printer. So the first step says to move the X-axis to contact part between the nozzle and the belt. This is your X-axis here. We're going to bring it down just so the nozzle touches the belt. Now you should see that right there. The nozzle just touches the belt. And it's kind of hard to see, but trust me, you don't want to push this too far down. But just make sure it just touches the belt. Now it says push just a little bit, but I'm going to leave it about right there. Now the nozzle is just touching the bed back here. What we need to do is move this up and move this up just so it touches the bottom. So that's where we know it's going to stop. So grab an Allen wrench, use the small side, and just loosen up one side here so it's loose. Push it up just so it touches that, just like that, and then tighten it back up. Now you want to make sure these are tight. So these two are tight. It's just touching right there. Then you want to come to this side, use the two bigger bolts, and do the same thing here. Loosen this up. They're just T-nuts, so they'll slide. So loosen that up. Push it up so it hits like that. It's kind of loose there. Push it up so it hits, and then tighten these two big ones back down. Don't move the little ones right now. So make sure these are tight. Make sure it's not going anywhere, and that's the second part. So these two are both moved up and hitting right here and right there. So this right here can't go any lower than that. You can hear it hit. Now right here on the front, you want to make sure that you are appropriate for your country. In our case, it's 115, so I slid it over that way. Then I'm going to take my power cable, plug it right into the side, and we're going to turn this thing on, but I'm going to show you what it does when it boots up. So give me one second. So I'm going to flip the switch here, and we'll see what the screen does. So you can see it's powering on. It's really cool. It looks like a belt, and it's sliding the creality off the screen there. It says, welcome. And it says, CR-30. Awesome. Then you've got a 3D print mil splash screen. 2.0.6.2 must be the Marlin, and this is what your first screen should look like. So what I'm going to do now is just auto-home the printer, and we're going to see what happens. So it goes down, then it should go to the right, and that's it. We're home. Now we need to go to the third part of our leveling. So let's do that now. So at this point, it took me a little while to figure out what I was supposed to do here. So I'm going to show you what I found. What we need to do is auto-home the printer by clicking the button, going to motion, and then auto-home, and that will auto-home the printer back there. Now I'm looking at the back of the printer. These are what we adjusted earlier. We are going to actually loosen these four up just a little bit, just so they're loose. They don't have to be too loose. Just crack them loose a little bit, and that'll take the small allen wrench. So you loosen these four screws up. Then when that's loosened up, you grab your second one here, and you go right into here. Now you're going to want to turn this either right like that, or left like this. So when you put your allen wrench into this cap screw, when you turn it to the left like this, there's a sensor in here that will move up. When you turn it to the right, the sensor will move down. And you want to adjust it just slightly, and then hit your auto-home, and then check your nozzle. How close is it to the bed? If it's not that close, turn it maybe a quarter turn, hit auto-home again, and the nozzle will keep getting a little bit closer and a little bit closer. Now if you go too far, your nozzle's going to hit, and you're going to know it. It's going to make a bunch of noise. Once it's dialed in, you want to leave this one as it is, don't move it, and then tighten these four back up. So just get your nozzle to barely touch, or right before it touches the bed, because we have a little bit of adjustment still in here. But just touching the bed, and then tighten these back in. And you're going to probably have to auto-home, I did it three or four times. To recap, turn this bolt right here, this way to lower, and this way to raise. And I'll explain that in one second how that works. It's kind of like a fork. It looks like this in here, and then your gantry comes down, and this is an optical center that goes in here. So when this fork is coming down, you want this to stop right when the nozzle touches the bed. If this is too high, it'll stop the nozzle too high. If this is too low, you'll crash. So be careful. So that's it. We've successfully assembled the CR-30, or Naomi Woo's 3D print mill. It was actually really simple to assemble, and in reality, it probably only should take you maybe 20 minutes. It's not very hard. It took me a lot longer to film this than it would ever take to actually build this. The instructions aren't too bad, but if you follow this video, you'll go pretty smooth. Just remember to pay attention to your nuts and bolts, make sure you grab the right ones. Also, it looks like they gave us two extra of every single one, which actually threw me through a loop, and I went back through the manual a couple times thinking that I forgot something. That's actually how I figured out that I used the wrong ones earlier. So it can happen to anyone. Just be careful. Pay attention to your bolts and you'll get them right. The only thing left to do is heat this thing up, throw some filament on it, run it through the sensor and down through the boated tube and get it printing. Now there's also some more adjustments on here. You can actually loosen the knobs right here and turn these a little bit and then tighten these knobs back to hold it into place. And that will give you some more fine adjustments on the belt. Everybody's going to kind of have to play with that themselves. I hope there's not too much, but your machine could be a little bit different. It could be, the shipping could have caused a little bit of a shifter, that kind of thing. So you just want to make sure everything's good. You know, run this back and forth a couple of times. Just make sure the hot block isn't rubbing anywhere on that belt and that your nozzle's pretty good. There is adjustments on this. You can always adjust it when you start printing and that's what you really need to do. You can loosen these knobs here like this and then turn these top screws a little bit to go up and down. And then tighten those knobs back down to hold it into place. And then make sure they're all tight before you print. Now you can do that while it's live. So when you start seeing it try to go and it's not touching the bed, you can definitely do that while it's live. All in all, this thing is built like a tank. It is heavy. It is heavy duty and it is a monster. I tell you what, this might be the best built creality machine I've ever used and I've used a bunch of them. I think this thing was built very, very nicely. Well, it's time to load some filament and get some prints going. I hope you guys learned something today and as always, keep printing. What's up, everybody? I hope you liked the video. If you did, give me that thumbs up. Hit that subscribe button right here and click the little bell if you want to get notified anytime we go live on Monday night for hotmakes or when I put out a great video like this. You guys rock.