 Hi there, having built your decoder, the next stage is to set up the movement range for each of the attached servers. So here we have the decoder with four attached servers. The first task is to plug in the keypad either directly or attach it via cable as we'll see later. Now we connect the decoder to your DCC power on the track. All the LEDs light, then go out and we're ready to begin. Now the keypad has four buttons, select, operate, left and right. And our first job is to check that the servers are set up correctly as far as the control arms can sound. Press both left and right buttons, release them and check that they're in the middle. We can now begin to set up server one which moves to the left position. You can adjust it by pressing the left button or the right button, moves the arm one degree at a time. When we're happy with the position, we press select again and adjust the right most position for that server. Again you can just hold down the button for continuous movement. When you're happy, press select. The server now moves at set rate. We can increase the rate by pressing the right button, which will get faster and faster. When it reaches the maximum rate it will stop. We can then reduce the rate with the left button. When we're happy, we'll stop again, press select. The LED flashes are ready to save the settings. Left to lose them, right to retain them. Press select again, move on to server two, and we can adjust its maximum left position again by pressing the left and right buttons. Press select to adjust the right most position. Again, when you're happy, press select again. Look at the rate, that looks okay. Press select, press R to retain the settings, and then press select to move on to server three. If we can skip setting server three by pressing operate, and again press operate to skip setting four. We can always come back and do the whole thing again. Now, you can check that the servers have been set up in the right position by pressing operate. Then pressing left to move left, or right to move right. Operates, check server two, left and right. Operate again, check server three. Operate again, check the position of server four. Left and right, and then operate again to stop. The next job is to program the DCC addresses to be used for each server. To do this, you probably first have to remove the keypad. Then, lift the programming link off the post where it's been parked, and refit it to short across the two pins of the programming header. Now, we don't actually need the keypad to program the addresses, but it gives a useful indication of what's going on. So, we'll attach a cable, 10-way ribbon cable, to the keypad header, and plug the keypad itself into the other end of the cable. See here that the red LED is lit, as is green LED one, to show that server one is ready for its address to be set up. We do this address setup by using a power cab in this case. Press select accessory. We type in an address 22 here, any address between 1 and 2047. Press enter, and then press the one key to throw the turn out, and then we move on to server two. We'll address 33, enter, press one again, that's program server two. Select address 44 for server three, enter, press two in this case. The address is accepted. Select accessory for server four, address 55, enter, press two or one. And now we have the red LED flashing, and we can do nothing more with the decoder until we remove the programming link. So, unplug the keypad cable, take the link off the programming header, park it on one of the pins, and then we can check the address. Now, we do this with power cab by pressing select accessory, or whatever you need to do with your own DCC system. The address is still set at 55 last entered, so we press enter again, and one and server four moves left. Press select twice, and server moves right. Now we can enter address 33, which is the address of server two. Press two, now it's already there, so no movement. And press select twice to move the server from one position to the other, and that checks it. Okay, now we can look at driving the actual turnouts on the layout from the servos. For this first demonstration, we have a servo mounted above the baseboard. You could have this in the hidden part of the layout or in a fiddle yard. The mount was one which was designed and 3D printed by my brother Derrick, the very useful chap to have around. The mount has fittings for standard servos, and for two micro switches which can be used for signaling or to switch the polarity of the turnout frog. We use the operate button to select the particular turnout, in this case it's turnout one, and we can check its throw by pressing first left and then right. And as you can see, it's not quite right. So we switch off the operate function, all the LEDs extinguished. Press select to set the leftmost servo position, and use the left and right buttons. Let the throw to switch the turnout correctly. We're happy we can press select again, get the rightmost position set up, and again use the right and left buttons to get the linkage, which we think is the correct position. Press select to check the throw, and we haven't quite got it right yet. So we won't just check the throw again, no. So press select, retain these settings by pressing the R button, then skip back to servo one, press select again, and we know we have to move the right position further to the right. So the left position is okay. We can now press that to move the linkage out, so we're definitely sure that it throws properly. Perhaps back it off one step with the left button. Check the throw, that seems correct. The turnout is moving correctly, and at an appropriate rate, so we'll speed it up slightly with the R button. Yes, okay. Press select again, retain the settings with the R button, select again, and then back to select servo one for operation. Alright, and this time the throw of the turnout is correct. It's more typical to have the servo underneath the layout, as you can see here. We have the same servo mount with the micro-switches, servos underneath the layout, with a vertical rod going up through the baseboard to switch the turnout, to show it's operation. Very neat. Now if we look at the same installation from above, you can actually see the turnout at the top of the picture at the end of the operating rod poking through, and it looks over. These are picot points which have an over-center spring, which gives you a really positive switching movement. Thank you very much for your attention.