 We're a glance shop foreman here at Township Chevrolet in addition to Tech Talk. We're going to stick to our how-to segment. We're going to show you guys how to get your car ready for this winter. Phil, roll the intro. All right, so to do your, check your own car out, get it ready for winter. Just a few quick things you guys can check just to give yourself some peace of mind. What you'll just need some basic tools. Some of the stuff you won't have, some of the stuff you will have, and anything you don't, you can either pick up online, you can pick up at your local store. And some of the stuff, if you want to bring it into the place, your local shop or your dealership, and have us do the few quick things you need checked. And that way you just bring it in and say, listen, I need this done. And we'll get you in and get it done for you. So Phil, come on in. We'll just show you the tools here. So this is something you can pick up pretty cheap. That's for checking the strength of your antifreeze. You just stick that in there, squeeze the bulb, sucks it up to a certain level here, and then it'll tell you where your antifreeze is good for, for as far as strength, and then you can adjust it accordingly. So anyway, that's something pretty cheap you can pick up. Next thing here, you've got your tire gauge and your tire chuck for filling up your tires. If you don't have a compressor at home, you can use one of those little electric pumps you can buy, pick them up at any of the big box stores or some of your local parts stores. And they have a gauge built right in them, set your tire up and pump your tire up and get it fixed up. Screwdriver for checking things like your engineer filter or maybe your cabin air filter, you can pick those up. Those are pretty cheap, most people have those. And this is our battery tester. So if you don't want to go into a shop or you don't want to go into the dealership, sometimes the place where you buy your batteries, if you're going to your big box place, like maybe a Canadian tire, or if you're buying your battery from your dealership, the parts counter. Sometimes you'll have one of these, a quick check or just a check and see if your coal cranking amps is good in your battery. So let's get to the car. All right Phil, so first thing we're going to do, we're going to use this tool here. We're going to check your antifreeze tester. So one thing you want to do, you want to make sure this is cold. If it's not cold, you want to release the pressure slow. We get another video on how to check your antifreeze, kind of the cooling system breakdown. You can check that out if you want, kind of goes into more detail. But you definitely want to, you can see that symbol on there. You want to make sure you're opening this when it's, when it's cold. Or if you know what you're doing, you can, but there is 20 pounds of pressure on this and it can be hot. So before we go and open this up, we're going to look. Phil, you just kind of get in there, you can see, you can see those little lines in there on the side of the cooling bottle. That's your level. The seam of this bottle is full, so this one is full. So just before you let the cap go, this one has been running a little bit. I got a little bit of experience doing this. So I'm just going to, you can kind of hear it kind of hissing there. Okay, it's done. So we're good to go. I'm going to go ahead and take the cap off. I'm going to stick the rubber hose in. I'm going to squeeze the bulb, just like an old turkey baster. We're going to suck that up inside. And you'll see there's kind of a cross hair mark up here. And you want it sitting roughly about there. So if you look, it's dead center, it's right in the line right now. You can see it's right off the, off the charts, the little red needle. And so we're good. It's better than minus 45. Bubbles hit it every once in a while, it disturbs it once it stops. So this, this vehicle's good for cooling. So you're going to go and squeeze that back in there, put that back in. Make sure your cap's fully tightened down and you're good to go. So coolant level, check, we're good. Let's move on to the next thing. So you've been driving around all summer long, maybe down some back roads, dusty roads, maybe near the beach. You're obviously going to, summer times when you're going to get all that dirt and debris into the air filter box. So you're going to go ahead and just take your, sometimes they have those clips on them, quick clips. Sometimes they have screws like this one does. I've gone ahead and removed these out of the way. There was a connector here for the mass air flow sensor, which you can take off. This one you don't really have to, there's enough slack on the cable you can whip it out of the way. So we're going to go ahead and lift this off. And then this is your filter. We're going to pick that up and flip that over. And obviously this one's just been done. This is on one of our certified cars that we sell. So the air filters get changed in there for the dirty. And you also want to just have a quick peek too, to make sure there's not too much dirt and stuff and debris in the box. There's a little bit in this. So I'm going to go ahead and just take some of this out and I'll blow that all in with the air blower. Now, if you don't have a air compressor home, which a lot of people don't, simple shop vac or vacuum cleaner is good. Go ahead, give that a little ball. Make sure that's all clean in there. I'm going to go ahead and throw the filter in, only sits in one way. So you can't really get that wrong. You're going to go ahead and you're going to put that back down into place. And I'll go ahead and we'll tighten these all back down again. And once you get them all tight, go ahead and reconnect any connectors you did. This little yellow piece says the lock, lock that back in. And now your filter's checked or replaced and you're good to go there. So let's move on to the next. Okay, so we're going to fill this, check the air pressure in the tires, especially coming on the winter time. Obviously, when the cold weather gets to anything and it's got air in it, the air shrinks, I guess is the best way to describe it. And you'll find your tire pressure dropping and air pressure as it's colder out, the molecules decrease in size and you lose tire pressure. So Phil, throw me up an old balloon above my head or something here to show them what I'm talking about. So anyway, you're going to go ahead and check your air pressure. If you want to find out how much air pressure to use, Phil, let's get up and let's go right around the car. We'll show you on this one right now. If you just look on this sticker, almost all of them look relatively the same. You can see on this car it calls for a 215-60-15 and it's 240 kilopascals or 35 psi. So depending on which way your gauge is going to read, the rear is same size, same kilopascals. And if you look here, the spare, it says what size the spare is. It also says how much air pressure's in the spare. Usually if it's a temporary spare, it's going to be, which this is because it starts with a T. We did an entire video there if you want to explain all these letters and numbers, you can check that out. I'll get Phil to drop that in the link below. And so you can go in there and you can see that that's a 60 psi because it's temporary tire. So it's a good time to check that out too while you're doing the tires. We're going to go ahead and remove the valve stem cap and we're going to insert this in here and check it. You can see on there, it's sitting right there at 35 psi right now. Each one of those is one notch. So it's sitting right at 35 psi, so it's good. If it wasn't, we'll go ahead and just let a little bit air out. So I can show you what we can do. So you're going to go ahead, take your chuck in. If you do have a no hose, if not, you'll have one of those clip on style ones and one of those electric compressors. Phil, throw that up. And you're going to go ahead, support the valve stem and just press firmly and you'll hear the air going in. And then you're just going to do it every few seconds. You can see that we pretty good size compressor here. So that's gone too high already. No big deal in the backside of your gauge here. There's a little button and you use that to push it in. Let some air out and keep dialing that in until you get it where you want it to be. Here we go, we're back at 35, perfect. Put our valve stem cap back on. We'll do that with all four tires. This is a good time, like I said earlier, just to pop the trunk, check the spare. Same as checking your batteries and your smoke alarms at home, right? Bear's kind of one of those things people don't really think about. So if you're doing your tire seasonal rotation or you're getting your air pressure set for the different change in the seasons, winter and summer, it's a good time to check that. So another thing I'll just show you right quick, Phil, there's a tire pressure gauge here, depth gauge, sorry. You can pick these up pretty cheap and some of them have color coded on to let you know when you're getting down. 230 seconds of tread is a safety requirement on PEI, which is crazy, it should be a lot higher than that. 230 seconds of tread in PEI is not good, especially on all season tires with winters we have. So I'll just show you how this works. You can see that little arm moves in and out of there, that little plunger, and on the top, you'll see the numbers here, it's in millimeters or it's in 30 seconds. So what you're gonna do is you're gonna push that up all the way, you're gonna line up where that is in between the tread. You're gonna set it on top of the tread, the two little black feet, and you're gonna push the top down until it stops. Then you just lift it off, you're gonna pull that over, and you rotate that around till you get where the correct line is, right? So it's roughly about seven millimeters or right around nine 30 seconds of tread, which is great. So you can see how much tread depth that is by how much of that's showing. Now I'll just show you what they say is okay to pass inspection is right there. So you can see how little sticking out, that's what's inspectable for safety on a tire. So obviously you can see that's really not enough. Okay, so here we are at the battery. We're gonna do a battery test and check the cold cranking amps for the winter because when the winter comes here, requires more cranking amps to wind the engine over because the oil's thicker, parts are cold, and it's harder on a battery and a weak battery will rear its ugly head. So before we get to that point, and you're stuck somewhere, if you're lucky to have one of these babies at home, and if not, the parts department has one where you bought your battery normally or you can come in and see us and we can do the test for you. So the way it works is you go ahead and you hook up this red cable to the positive, black one to the negative. The screen will pop up here. Most of them kind of operate the same way. We're gonna go ahead and hit enter and we're gonna test it. It's in the vehicle, it's not out because you can do either one. So if you wanna just bring your battery into your parts place, they can do it without even having to have the car. It is a top post battery meaning the battery cables do go on the top. A lot of the sheds, especially the old ones have them on the side so you can go ahead and select that with everyone you wanna do. And then we're gonna go automotive battery because that's what we're working on. This is a regular flooded type battery. Sometimes the battery will be AGMs. It'll say, sometimes it has a gray label on it and it should say right on the battery. This one is a regular flooded style with the acid in it. And we're gonna go ahead and select CCAs which is what we use here for measuring the battery which is cold cranking amps. Gonna press enter. I've gone ahead and checked. You can zoom in on that baby. And that is 650 CCA. So we're gonna go ahead and use our arrows here and scroll this up and down. And we're gonna go ahead to cold cranking amps 650. And it's gonna go ahead and say it's testing. You want everything shut off in the car. You want no loads. It's gonna ask you if it's above or below temperature. So it's above 32 degrees Fahrenheit which is zero Celsius. I'm just gonna go with the test again. And it's gonna come back and tell us it's a good battery. Voltage measure is at 12.54. We're gonna go ahead and just hit this button here to print. This one will do a starter test too. We're gonna wanna print this off so we can get a better look at it so it's not gonna cycle in back and forth. If you come in and get this done at our shop here you can actually ask for this. Usually they put it with the copy or work order. So we'll go ahead and take a look. The measured voltage was 559. The rating was 650. And it was 12.54 cold cranking amps. So this battery's good. Yeah, it's not right up to par but it's not fully charged either. It's one of our lot vehicles. So chances are it's out in the lot for the last few days at least for sure, maybe longer. In between test drives it's only getting started and moved around in the lot. So I'm assuming once this battery was fully charged which is 12.6 volts that would bring that cold cranking amps up a bit even higher into the 600 mark and you're good to go. So if you test it, it's showing three, 400 cold cranking amps on this particular vehicle. That's getting weak. Anything lower than that, it's no good at all. Chances are it probably hasn't started for you already. And obviously the bigger the engine obviously the more cranking amps you need. You're gonna do a 750, 850 even a thousand cold cranking amps to get into the diesels and stuff. So once you're done doing that you just go ahead and pull these clips off put your battery cover back on, you're good to go. So other than just checking your regular fluids holding the old dipstick transmission if you got it, checking all your fluids like your brake fluid in here you can see the max mark in there. You can check all that stuff pretty easy it's all kind of visual it's all there. You wanna just maybe stick your hand in give that cool fan a bit of a spin make sure it's good there. Good thing to keep cleaned out in the winter time when the snow and the ice do does start up. And yeah other than that that's the basic just kind of getting your car ready for winter. And if you're not interested in doing any of that stuff and you get stuff to do it or don't have a place to do it or maybe you don't have the ambition to it either way it doesn't matter just bring it down and we'll take a look at it for you and get that checked out. That's been another edition of Tech Talk and we look forward to seeing you.