 Welcome back to the channel. If you're new here, my name is Rick and normally I make videos on heating air conditioning and refrigeration, and I also do home standby generators. And today we're going to be doing a review on the OAPS Mega 2. The OAPS Mega 2 is a brand new series out from OAPS that offers 2,500 watts of pure sine wave power with a 2048 watt hour battery. The OAPS brand has been known for making reliable units at affordable price without all the bells and whistles. Now with the release of the Mega series, they've offered a few of those features that they didn't in the past. Now one of the big features is the ability to add expansion batteries to the unit. This one allows you to add up to four additional batteries taking your power from 2,048 watt hours up to 10,240 watt hours. And if the Mega 2 series is not large enough for your needs, they also make the Mega 3 and Mega 5 series which have even more capacity. Another very useful feature is the UPS battery backup system. You can now plug this straight into the wall and power your device and when the power would go out, it'll automatically switch over in as little as 20 microseconds. This is going to allow you to have battery backup for your computer, multiple different items, whether it be a lift chair, CPAP machine, whatever the case is, you're going to be able to power those with uninterruptible power. Now in order to charge the lithium ion phosphate battery that has 3,500 life cycles to 80%, you're able to charge that with an AC wall outlet at up to 1,600 watts of power and you can do it from solar at up to 2,100 watts of power, which you can combine both of these together to give you up to 3,700 watts of power to charge at one time which can knock your charging time down to as little as 36 minutes. Now I do mention that it does have the lithium phosphate battery because it's a safer battery and a longer lasting battery than lithium ion. And OPS is able to offer all these things plus a three-year warranty for a power station of this size in the 2,500 watt range, all for the lowest price on the market. Right now they are able to beat out the Blue Eddy, EcoFlow and the Jackery. Now before you think that I'm a statue stuck behind here in a monotone voice, let's get started with some invasive testing making sure that it provides the power that it's rated for, that the actual battery is lasting as long as they say it will, that the charge rates happen where they happen at, that the sine waves pure just like you see it down below. What voltage does it actually operate? How does it operate under load and is it worth buying? And right now through December 2023 OPS is running some of the biggest sales of the season. And with my discount HVACR you can save even more money. I'll have links down in the description below so be sure to check those out. All right so what I like about the layout here is it's very clean and it's simplified. The display is very easy to read. It doesn't have any fancy jargon on it. It's watts in, watts out. What's your hours left? You have your rotary dial here that basically tells you whether it's going in or going out and then the percentage it's actually there. Down below confirms whether you've got the output for the USBs on or the AC or the DC over here and it's just simple layout. On the top left hand side here we have a 30 amp 12 volt Anderson output plug. Below that we have two USB-C PD100 watt quick charge and directly below that then we have four USB-A quick charge 3.0s and you have the power switch down here below. Over here on the right hand side we have the 12 volt card charger plug as a rubber boot right over top of it to keep the muck and stuff out. And below that we have two of the DC 5521 plugs which both of these are actually rated at 10 amps. Then below there they have the power switch to turn it on and off. Then down here on the bottom we start off with a total of four 20 amp 120 volt outlets. Then off to the right we have 120 volt 30 amp RV plug which it's a 30 amp plug but it's only still rated at 2,500 watts. So don't let that confuse you that you think you can actually pull 30 amps out of it because the device is not rated for that. Now over here to the left hand side we have two high speed fans which these are a little bit noisy but I would rather have my appliance running cool than I would have it running hot and quiet. Heat is what destroys batteries and that's what destroys electronics. So that's one of the only negatives I've seen so far is that it's a little bit noisy. Down below here's your extra batteries plug into it which you've got a plug right there. Now this is a 48 volt system so these batteries are tested in right now at 56.52 volts which in theory is a 48 volt system that is on both of these two different prongs here. This is I believe a proprietary plug so they do not recommend you use other people's batteries however they do give you a lot of plug adapters so that you can use other people's solar panels. Another nice surprise was they included quite a few extra cables to make your setup a little easier. We have an Anderson to MC4 that's a 14 gauge cable in the middle. We have an Anderson to Anderson which has got a 12 gauge conductor in the center of it. We have an Anderson to 7909 and that is also a 14 gauge conductor in the middle. And finally we have a 12 volt to Anderson charging port. This is so that you can charge it off the car while you're driving. This is rated for 10 amps. It has a 14 gauge conductor in the inside and it has a 15 amp fuse glass fuse there in the end of it. That obviously is going to charge if you do the basic math here 10 amps times 12 volts or 13 volts you're only coming to come in at around 100 to 120 watt charging speed. And with 2048 watt hours it's going to take you a little while to charge up but if you're traveling you know it's free power. And on the other side we have another set of fans which like I said they're big into their cooling which is going to make the equipment run longer. You've got two fans going in here and two fans on the back side dragging the air across. On the inside here we have an Anderson plug adapter that's rated for 12 volts to 150 volts. This is where you're going to plug in your solar or your car charger. The total maximum input is 15 amps on that. Directly below that is our 100 to 120 volt plug. It's rated at 16 amps and finally we have our 120 volt plug here. This is a 14 gauge cable. It does have a little bit different plug on the end as you can see there that's two flat ones. Generally what you're going to see is more along the lines of this one on my left. There's also quite a size difference there between the two of them. Just something worth noting. And up here on top we have two big old go handles that you can grab a hold of for easy carrying. So this is rated at 48.5 pounds so it is manageable to be carried around and for those out there that don't have a lot of room this is 18.1 inches wide 12 inches tall and 10.6 inches deep. Okay we just did the full load test on it. We ran it at about 900 watts continuous until the system completely depleted down to zero percent. The meter came in at 1.85 kilowatt hours and that comes in at about 91 percent efficient. That's really good. All right so we went ahead and did it a second time here wanted to see if it was accurate even with the battery dead at 118 volts. Let's go down 1.9 kilowatt hours. So that comes in right at 92.8 percent efficient. That's pretty pretty good. That's the best I've had so far. And ran that 900 watt load for about two hours and 10 minutes. All right so we just begun the charging process. We went completely from zero. Currently you're charging right around the 15 to 1600 mark that you've seen right there at the bottom right corner. We're going to do a audio test here to see how noisy it is. We are right at about a foot distance away from it. Let's open the silence and see what we got. Now the fans are very noticeable. Now let's go ahead and stop the unit. We'll see what the normal ambient is without it running at all. So the noise floor in the room right now is right around 40 to 41 dB. All right so right now we've got an electric heater on there. We've got our oscilloscope running to show our sine wave. We've got our multimeter over here telling us what our actual output voltage is. We have an inductive load down there which we can watch that here. You can see we're pulling 5.1 amps on the blower motor with a power factor of 0.81 power factors how your amperage and your voltage is on the sine wave. Most of these tests with resistive tests is a perfect one power factor. When you get capacitive tests involved in it things start getting a little wonky and they get a little different. But we're going to go ahead and just kind of run that all together now and see where we can max out at. Right now as you can see on the display here we're running right in at 1800 watts. Heater's on high, blower's running. Now we're going to add one more resistive load here which takes us right to 2500 watts. It's dropping a touch. We are holding right in at 119 volts. Sine wave over here is perfectly stable to a point. We have a little bit of funkiness going on in the middle but you can see we're holding in there fine at 2500. We do have a little bit of room to work with but anything over 2500 you're going to max out and right there you go she flat lined and shut down. Going back over to our code E01 output overload protected. Now to reset that you just hit your AC, remove the load problem, turn it back on. It takes a second, boom instantly comes back up 119 volts. You can see when you're really hammering down on it how fast you can drain that battery down. A lot of times I think people don't really understand exactly what's going on here. This is not a gas generator where if you just keep putting fuel into it it just keeps running. This has so much fuel and it's rated in watt hours. As you take those watts out of there that depletes your battery and you have to recharge it obviously. If you have a solar panel that's going to help bring that back in but as you can see for the most part we are pretty clean on our sine wave here which looks really good. We're holding in perfectly at 60 hertz which we can see down at the bottom. You can also see it over here running perfectly at 60 hertz. That's important for your electronics. Now this has a 5400 watt surge capacity but what that means is up back down nice and quick up back down. It's not going to sustain it for a long duration of time. We're talking seconds or less. Now something I'm going to note which I just found out. So let's look at that sine wave. You've got a little wonkiness going on in here. What that is is basically noise. When we unplug the blower it instantly goes away. So we have noise on the line. That's why I wanted to do an inductive load versus a resistive load. A resistive load is what your electric heaters are. It's a constant amperage and voltage. As soon as it comes on boom instantly stays there. To give you a quick example how that is we turn on the heater. Instantly goes right to 11.312 amps. You can see on a resistive load your power factor is one. That means the voltage and the current is perfectly in sync with one another on that AC sine wave. But when you get the sine wave out of whack and you can see right there the sine wave is holding pretty darn steady there. That's also with the motor running. As soon as we pull that motor off instantan cleans up. So what you're seeing there is the wave form disturbance because of the motor. All right now we're going to go ahead and get into the testing of the 12 volt section. We've got the Anderson plug that you can charge it with actually plugged into the 12 volt car plug here. We're bringing that down here. You should never coil your wires up like this but for demonstration purposes I'm keeping it short so that you can see that we're actually testing it right off the outlet. We're using this because it's actually heavier rated so we're bringing it down to the Anderson plug to the gators down to the actual DC tester. What this test is going to tell us is does it actually produce 10 amps of current and what does it actually trip out at. As we can see down here we're right at 12.7 volts. We're going to go ahead and start out with our current. We're going to go ahead and take this right up to 10 amps. Right now we're pulling right at the 10 amp mark. Our amp reach like I said is also down here digitally and the voltage that we're at is right here. So we're right at 12 volts. All right now we're going to go ahead and do by tenths and we're going to see where we actually trip out at. You can see our voltage here on the left hand side is holding in there steady right now. So 11.1 amps is where it shuts down at. This thing's designed to last a long time. It's got protection pretty much for about everything under the sun. I counted up a total of about 27 different codes that can give you for potential protections. So what we have right here is the E10. E10 comes as cigarette lighter port overloaded or shorted circuit. So it tells you exactly what's going on there. It tells you how to reset it, which what you have to do is hit your button here, turn it off, turn it back on, and you're good to go again. Now we're going to go ahead and test out that 5521 plug. We're going to use the adapter, plug it right into the unit. Now the cable that comes with it isn't the heaviest gauge in the world. As you can tell we're at 11.3 volts. So we do have some voltage drop. You can feel a little bit of warmth in the wire after some time. I mean it's not to the point where it's going to melt it down or anything like that, but you can tell that it's maxing out to its total capacity. We'll go ahead and take this up one by one and see where it trips out at. Now when you look up here to the top we are pulling 141 watts, but you can also see that right down here at the bottom, which that tells us that the meter on the device is accurate. We're at 10.2 13.4 15.6 17.9 17.1 Shut down at the same amperage. Now the way I like to test my PD ports is by actually using a device that will charge at the wattage that it's going to charge at. So what we've got here is we have the USB-C going through the meter, going right into the quick charge port. As you can tell it picked up the protocol that it's running at. We're running at 20 volts. We're running in at 4.72 amps and we're right in at 96 watts. Now our next test is going to prove that we're able to do 100 watts, which we already have that plugged in directly. You can see the meter here on the left hand side is right in at 89. We've got another USB-C coming out of there, coming over to our converter plug, which is on our meter and this is where we're going to be able to put a load on it. We're going to go ahead and start cranking the wattage up on the USB-C on the side here. Now you've got to look at something here. This is something a lot of people don't notice and I didn't know it at first either. Look at the voltage now that USB-C is putting out because it doesn't have the protocol going on, that handshake that I told you earlier. It went ahead and went to default, which is like four and a half volts. So this one here is going to max out at about three amps. Right now we're pulling right at three and a half amps, which is what that's rated at. We'll go ahead and take it a couple more watts up and we'll go ahead until she trips out. Now it's going to most likely shut both of them off. So we got a max of 18 watts out of the one. So what happened there is the voltage actually dropped down far enough that the meter shut itself off, but we're still charging up here on the computer. You can see that we actually have the yellow dot, orange dot there. So just a quick screenshot for you. You can see that those are going to be either three amps at five volts, nine volts, or 12 volts, or 15 volts, and then five amps at 20 volts. So it really depends on the handshake what's going on there with the protocol. I'm not going to get into a deep discussion on how the USB system works, but that is basically why you won't see a higher wattage coming out of that port because it didn't go to the higher voltage. Volt times amps is how you get your wattage. P over IE, basic owns law here. Now this cable is an anchor cable, which usually is high quality stuff. I believe it was rated for 100 watts. We're going to go ahead and test out the USB-A plug here. So we'll go ahead and plug it into that one. So right now we're right at 5.1 volts, starting off right now at 10 watts. We're at 4.8 volts, 11, 11 watts, 12 watts, 13 watts, 14 watts, 15 watts. We're pulling right at 3.1 amps right now. So theoretically we're already at the max of what it's supposed to do, but let's go ahead and push it a little further. 16 watts, boom, shuts down. So it's protecting itself. So if you have a phone that's not working right and it's pulling too many amps, the system is going to shut itself down. It went off on an E011. E011 is USB-A port overloaded or short circuits. They haven't nailed down to a T exactly which port is malfunctioning. Just hit your DC button down there that reset the code. Now we've got the Anderson in here. I'm not able to put a 30 amp load on this. This can only go up to 180 watts. So right now we're at 12.15 volts, zero watts. All right, at 175 watts, we're still at 12.18 volts. Current is at 14.3 amps. It is able to at least do half of what it's rated at. I don't have any 12-volt appliances that pull that kind of current. So we are able to do at least half the load test on that. Now we're going to go ahead and test the battery backup section. Down here on bottom we have the wattage coming in. We have the wattage going out which is powering the laptop. Like I said the laptop is being powered off the transformer. There's no batteries installed. You can see that the voltage coming out of the unit is 119 volts. So what we're going to do is we're going to go ahead and unplug from the wall. You're going to watch that voltage change. It changed for a split second and it did not lose the screen. Now let's go ahead and do it again. See if we can confuse it. So I just heard it click. I'm going to plug it again. Didn't lose the screen. Plug it back in. There. Just click. Unplug it again. So it is switching back and forth. No problem. 20 milliseconds seems to be enough for most computers. You'll need to test that out with your device that you use before you actually need it. But as you see the voltage right here is 120. Perfectly steady off of the unit. If I plug it back in you'll see that it is going to change to what the utility is which may go up to 122. Yep. 122 volts. Now just in case you're thinking I'm trying to trick you to prove that it's actually plugged into the power supply, there goes the computer. So it works. All right. So we're going to go over the app real quick here. As you can see I'm on the iPhone. We're looking at the Mega 2 right there in front of us. We're going to click on that. It's connected right now on Bluetooth. This can do it on Wi-Fi and Bluetooth both. To do Wi-Fi you'll have to add it to the network. So in the left hand side you can see the input is zero. If I plug it in right now like you can see here you should see it jump up. You can see the wattage starting to go up. Now on the output obviously we have nothing. I just clicked on that. You can see the AC is on. Now it's off. Click it again. Turn it on. Down to the 12 volt DC right underneath the AC. See I turned it off. I can turn it on. Just clicking on the circle button turns them on and turns them off. So you've got a read out here at the top. You've already chose. You can see what the temperature is of the battery. You can see what your level is. I'm going to go ahead and unplug this. So up in the top right hand corner you see the little gear. You click on that. You can rename the unit. Call it whatever you want. You can share the device. You can send that to somebody else. You got the temperature measurement. You can go sell to use a Fahrenheit. Here is the auto timeout. This is where you can shut the unit down if it's not being used. So never all the way up to 24 hours. You got the screen timeout. You can have it shut off in seconds to never. You've got the AC timeout there. Same deal. If you're using the power it will not time out and shut off. But as soon as you quit using it then it's going to shut off. You have a firmware update there. You got to make sure that you're connected to Wi-Fi. Asked questions and then specifications. This is going to show you what the device has available to it. It's going to have your watt hours, AC, blah blah blah. And there you go. For the most part this app is very basic. It's the first app I think they've came out with so it's got some work to be done on it I believe. But it works. It's functional but you know there's some quirks to it here and there that I noticed but for the most part I don't use it very often but it's there if you need it. All right there you have it. This is the Ops Mega 2. So run down of everything that it does and what it doesn't do. For the most part I think it does pretty much everything that's rated for. The app I like I said is a little glitchy. The door on the side here you've got to be careful. If it's super cold out that rubber can be brittle and you can break the bottom of it like I did. I'm sure if I got ahold of the factory they would swap it out. Other than that everything arrived like it should. The box was double boxed. It had a very thick insulation in there to protect it from the ride over. The only thing I think negative wise like I said would be potentially the noise from the fans but once again do you want it to overheat or what do you want to deal with a little noise? Well guys that's going to wrap the review up. I think as you've seen the Ops Mega 2 here is a huge improvement over the previous models with the new features. The price point is the best out there right now. There is all kinds of sales going on right now in December so if you're wanting to get one and you didn't get what you wanted for Christmas right now December 2023 is the time to act. So you want to get out there and get this thing bought now before the prices go back to normal. So if you guys have any questions leave them down below. Make sure you check out my links that help support the channel. There is a discount code down there. Like I said HVACR will get you an extra $50 area off and until next time guys we'll catch you on the next one. Thanks for watching.