 Hey, what's up, folks? Welcome back to another 3D Hangouts. My name is Noi Ruiz. I'm a designer here at Adafruit and joining me every week is my brother Pedro. Hello. Good. Greetings everybody. I'm Pedro. It's creative tech here at Adafruit and every week we're here to share 3D printed projects featuring electronics from Adafruit. That's right. This is the show we combine 3D printing and DIY electronics to make inspirational projects. Hello everybody hanging out in the Discord chat room. If you are watching live and you'd like to say hello during the live show, you can say so. You can say hello on the live broadcast chat channel on Adafruit's Discord server. The link to that is up top here. We have a banner. There it is. Discord.gg slash Adafruit. We'll take a couple moments to welcome everybody to the show. We'll do some housekeeping. We have some freebies to talk about. New projects. Shop talk. All that and more. On you guessed it. Ask a designer. No. 3D Hangouts. Pedro. Say hello to everybody. Good morning. I might have to restart my browser because my second camera is in some I will shout out to everybody. We have Deweyster, DJ Devin, Andy Calloway, Vence. Hello everybody watching live. We're broadcasting on all the different channels. And just as a show note, this is episode 399. That means next week is episode 400. Yeah, I know we thought so too. But now episode 400 is next week. We have a special, hopefully we'll have a special banner and I don't know maybe we'll do something celebratory. We'll see if we can get a special discount code or something like a bigger discount code. Speaking of which, let's go ahead and jump into the freebies, Adafruit.com slash free. These are all the freebies that are available this week. So if your order is $99 or more, you'll get a free half size from a pro to breadboard. Okay, automatically added to your cart during checkout. If your order is $149 or more, you'll get the half size promo proto plus a free Adafruit RP 2040 feather. That's right, a feather. That's a new one. And if your 40 if if your order is $200 or more, you'll get the free RP 2040 feather, the half size from proto and free ground shipping for constant continental U.S. only. So again, check out Adafruit.com slash free to get these freebies automatically added to your cart. No need for a special coupon code. But we do have a coupon code for today. It is going to give you 10% off your total order. And the coupon code is bocatan or is it bocatan? Bocatan is bocatan tomato or tomato. Yeah, that's a that's this week's project. It's Bocatan is a Star Wars character. And Pedro will talk about it in a couple of moments as we get our browsers situated. We are good. Yeah, we are good. All right, you're up, man. All right, go ahead and get into this week's project. The Bocatan LED headband. It's a nice little simple project that we wanted to try to make with these teeny tiny little what is SMT? Yes, surface mount. So nice simple little project. I have not seen these for sale anywhere. A lot of the ones that are up for purchase, I think it's just like the no LEDs in it. So definitely a good way to try to make one. And here's what it looks like off my head. Nice little diffusion on. And the way that we're doing the diffusion is with simple hot glue, which gives it this nice, glowy effect. You can see that the LEDs are all the way down on this side. And it's able to sort of act like a light pipe almost, which is what you were using that in last week's project. That's right. So here is some recesses on here that the LEDs are threaded to. You can see how that goes through there. And then we use the hot glue on top. We do some trimming of the because we sort of glob it on there. And because of the recess, it's able to fit into the shape of that. We're just using a hopping knife to clean it up, square it away and get that nice little look. So if you wanted to add more, I definitely have a bunch more nice detail all over the headband. Forget with that one guy on Instagram who has like makes like LED masks and all that. This would be a nice mix and miniature sized ones. The LEDs that we're using come with these wires. So they're super easy to work with. So you don't have to have like some tiny little soldering pads to attach all the wires. And they're locked just long enough that you could trim these down to fit whatever you want to insert these into the coin cell battery that we're using. We're using the 20 millimeter or the 20 32 coin cell breakout, which is inside here. We have this nice little switch to actuate it. So again, get to the on and off button. This is a snap fit case. So it's not fits like this. Take this guy out like that. You can see on the inside how that is nicely in there. I should have gone to the other camera. You switch over real quick. Or it is macro person. Yeah, we go. Where am I? You're there. I made a full screen for you. Oh, it's upside down. Yeah. So yeah, nice simple little circuit. The blue is the ground and the red is the power. So it's just connected to the software, the switch. And here is the detail switch. It turns it on and off. The point cell battery lasts, I don't know, quite a while. I have not changed this out. And I've worn this multiple times like all day through the parks and like 90 degree weather and it's held up very well. In terms of the Yeah, the 3D printed headband, nice and smooth. So I forgot I was even wearing it a lot of the times. Things all nicely smoothed out, beveled out. And the print takes, oh man, about four hours is the only unfortunate part. So it's quite a big print. We have like filters or not filters. Oh, man, blanking on the fillets. We have fillets on all of the detail. So you have a little bit of not needing support for any of these. They're not too deep in there. You do get the detail. You definitely add some weathering effects. And that's really why I have all these recesses in there. So you can get like the dry brush effect and get some nice like shading details added to that. This was created in Fusion 360. So all of the way that this is all modeled is with a simple curve. So you can adjust the curve, just measure your head and you can edit the ellipse that I'm using for this. You can grow this bigger or smaller. And then the way that the sweep works, you can even have this be like shorter or longer. Same thing with the little, I don't know what this part that hangs down is you can also extrude that to match your head size. So you can have it line up perfectly with the right where your ear ends or starts, I guess, and then adjust that if you need to have it smaller. If you want to wear it with one of the Mandalorian helmets, it could definitely help in model. So you can fit that around your head. And what else are we looking at here? Oh, the elastic band. You can just measure this to your head size. The width is, you know, their standard 1.5 inch wide elastic band. And these are used for craft wearables, crafting, like making headbands. And of course, wearables like clothes and stuff like that. So super comfortable on the back of your head. And we're using these, I forgot the name that they use for these like end pinch metal pinchers, I think. Yeah, that's about it. So the ends do not fray. Then what else? Details on the actual, the case that holds this. So proud of figuring out how to have these little notches in here so you can thread the entire elastic band through. So you don't have to do that dance where you have to, you know, order of operation and how you solder things. So that definitely helped out immensely. So not only can you thread the elastic band through there, but you can use that to hide your wires. These all just go through like that. And then mount with M 2.5 screws. Was the other thing. Oh, simple. I didn't do it with this one, but a nice way to actually hide your wires behind there is with a little bit of thread. So I just thread it on there, not too taught so that if the wires want to move around, let's do that. But all it's doing is just forcing it to go behind the headband. Have a little, a lot better way to hide this. One of the other things I should have done was sort of measured wire. So this actually went up over so you could like hide behind this over here. Oh yeah. I already cut the wires. Yeah, yeah. Okay, cool. Very nice. Make hiding your wires in a nice little way to build everything into the headband. So a nice little simple way to create a nice subtle wearable with LEDs. Very cool. I like that the you made the custom battery box with a snap fit cover because like when you need to change the battery out, you don't have to like unscrew anything. You just pop the cover off to the snap fits. And like that's like a really good way to kind of embed electronics is to mount it to something, but always have something snap snap fit so that it can come off and you can still remove the battery, rewire it if you need to. And then that little bit of the actuator is really nice because then you have so much more accessibility to the slide switch, which is very tiny. And like, you know, meaty fingers tend to struggle with such small little surface mount components. So it's nice to have a bigger actuator. You'll see this a lot with some of the the electronic kids toys. They always have a big beefy, smoothed out actuator that fits over the actual switch that's either on the PCB or somewhere else. So that's a really nice approach. I really like you went that extra mile with that. And the snap fits look really chunky. So they're not going to break after several removals. Yeah, it's like little n stops inside the snap. So does it slide out of the way. And then we have a couple more little details here, the this little extrusion right here. So the button itself isn't like wiggling back and forth. That was another thing where it would wiggle. Yeah, I haven't seen that. See that right here. Yeah, that's cool. So yeah, very good. And then I should last yeah, there's like a little a little extrusion right here on the edge. So it doesn't pop out either. So it'll, yeah, that's fit in, but then it won't come out. It was one of the main right. You have like some 45 degree extrusions. Yeah. Yeah, it's cool. I see us use if we'd like make these type of projects that need a coin cell breakout, like definitely this is the way to go. Like using this battery box, I think going forward is like pretty smart because you've already figured out all the tolerances. So definitely use it. And then the other thing is like simple things like, oh, let me add a little slit so that the wires can fit through because like, otherwise if that was closed off, you'd have to thread the wires and yeah, that could be another one. Exactly. And that's one of the things we're trying to avoid order of operations where you can be put in any other order. Sometimes you can't avoid that. Like you have to solder a thing or thread a thing and solder it. But in this case, quite happy that you could go a different route. So yeah. So definitely is easier to access the slide switch with this bigger chunky actuator than it is. And if it was off, so yeah, goes on like that. And quite happy with that the printer was able to get the tolerance right for that teeny tiny little slide switch. Yeah, for sure. And then I think that's pretty much it. It's a principle project. Lots of the wearables use the coin cell. So definitely wanted to tackle that challenge of enclosing everything. Make it all nice and secure inside this little guy. Yeah. So one of the main features about these LEDs is that they come pre-wired. And I think that's what Lamar wanted. She stocked these and she's like, you know, it'd be nice to have these very, very tiny LEDs come pre-wired because then folks that are new to electronics don't have to like struggle with soldering to these very tiny pads. So and the other thing is their color coded. So you know what's ground and what's power. And that helps a lot. And the wires themselves are, you know, like 30 gauge. So they're really small. The LEDs are 0805 LEDs, like the chip LEDs. And they come in different colors. You get a pack of five of them for five bucks. Yeah. But the whole thing about them is they come pre-wired so that folks that are new to electronics don't have to struggle with soldering these tiny little LEDs. And so whether folks are making miniatures or embedding them into cosplay, this is a really good option to get started with LEDs. So yeah, we hope folks check them out. I don't think I've seen SMT LEDs pre-wired before. So this is really nice to see. And we have a good assortment of colors. I saw Feddy too on Discord. I was asking like, what about conductive thread? Maybe conductive thread would be a good option. Maybe you can have those conductive threads like go through the band. That's a really good idea. If folks are really into like sewing, maybe they have a sewing machine, you can try that. I think that'd be a good option. But for folks that are just getting started, having the LEDs pre-wired like saves you so much time and, you know, worry about soldering to the pins on the coins will break out. So that's always a good thing. But yeah, conductive thread is always a more of a, I see it as more of an advanced thing for folks. Like if you don't have the sewing skills or the soldering skills, it's going to kind of be hard to get into it both. But you were able to just do a couple stitches with a needle and thread just to keep those pliers, you know, from getting dangled with your hair, for example. That's more for like fabric is what I would use that in. Yeah. This is, you know, just PLA. So it's nice and rigid. Cool. All right. Oh, we're going to go over, I guess, the learn guide, just go through it real quick. Yeah. Oh, yeah, you can go through it. All right, cool. Super simple. It's going a nice little overview, shut off the breakout and the teeny tiny little LEDs for that. Some of the tools you're going to need it was pinch crimp ends. That's what it is. That's a search term that you can use to find, I think they come in like a pack of like 50 or something. But we've used these so many times for like all the masks and like a bunch of like the the props. So definitely cool to have like a nice little coil of that ready to go. And then some of your standard stuff, soldering iron, scissors, screwdriver, and of course, hot glue gun. We're using the the battery hard ones. I think you have a Ryobi one have a black and ducker one. And you definitely need a it definitely gets nice and hot so that you're able to have a little bit more time to for the hot glue to be malleable to get it into all those recesses. Go ready printing or all the source files. You have the CAD if you want to upload that. You put in a once you can view it on the browser and then we have them on Thingiverse. You just want to get the STLs for that. No supports required for this. You'll just need a brim to hold the the main headband together. I have those all oriented so you just bring them in as is to print all in one go. It takes about like six hours. So a little bit of a while to print all that out. And then I have a question. The filament that you use is like already shiny and glittery. And it's PLA. So if you don't want to do any post processing, that's always a good way to go is like just get a color that's sparkly and shiny. What's the filament? Do you know? Yeah, it's everyone. And it's just on Amazon. Okay. And these come in. I don't know if you notice there is a darker color. So this is like the black and the gray one. So I think it's this color that they use on the show. Yeah, that's cool. Like to kind of get it, you know, without having to sand and paint and stuff, which you can totally do. But it's nice to have the filament already be that color and that that shine. Of course, if you're doing like, you know, how some people do like the weather look on like the Mandalorian costume. So definitely good way to do that. That's everything. And then you posted the source file for the breakout. Yes, you want to get the mounting holes and add that to any project that you want to power with this tiny little guy. Yeah, for sure. It's what I used to get the mounting holes and to line up the switch. So we can get that aligned to the actuator. Yay. So purple in terms of the circuit diagram. Reload that, get that photo in there. And they're already wired. So it's one of the colors. Blue is brown. Red goes on to the switch. Or if you want them to be constantly on, you can just put it on the pen. All right. Yeah, that's a nice option. But these last, I can't tell you like the amount of how long they last because they have not died on me yet. So quite a while. Several hours. Yeah. I posted the, I don't think you need a resistor, but they're pretty bright. And if you're going to be using them like outside, it's bright enough to see outside. So cool. Don't think resistors for these. I'm sorry, like four of them. Yeah. And I don't know if I mentioned this last week too. I was testing like all the different colors to see if any of them dimmed out and you have four of them attached and I didn't see any dimming. They all look the same amount of brightness on every color. Because usually like, you know, the white takes up more power and I'll like dim all the other ones. So I didn't notice any of that happening between the different colors. All right. So they have the product pages. They have a forward voltage of 3.2 volts. Yeah. So there you go. Yep. All right. So sort of like a wearables project to have some threading going on. So the recesses have a little near the end of the headband. So you can thread the wires through there is big enough of that. Let's see. So once you thread that too, yep, you're going to, with the hot glue gun, just lay that down. You want to hold onto the LED tube, like give it a little bit of pressure or pull it on it just a little bit so that it glues in place facing towards the channel. If you noticed that in there, you don't want it pointing like up, like away, because then I don't think it would illuminate or diffuse the entire hot glue that's in the recess. So just make sure that you can orient your LED. If I click on this to make it big, you can see that I also added a little bit of a bend on here so that it is facing forward. So you do want to make sure that you're very careful on that and then bend it so that the LED shoots the light towards, you know, the channel. It'll illuminate the entire thing. And this is what it should look like once you've got all the hot glue on there. Don't worry about making a big mess because hot glue on three printed stuff comes out pretty good. Like, yeah, it's just alcohol to remove it. Not even. You can just use it. It peels right off. So definitely be careful with the hobby knife when you're trimming this up. I did try to use the flush cutters, but it, maybe mine aren't as sharp. It ripped it right off. Oh, funny. Yeah. So that's cool that you do have that ability to undo things and not have it be completely messed up, you know, to mess up one of your LEDs or if your positioning wasn't, like they cool down your position, the position of your LED isn't how you want it. You can wait for the hot glue to cool off and you can just rip it right off and try again. So the main thing that you want to do is make sure that all of your corners have the hot glue seeping into it. Sort of look a little bit cleaner. You can see down here, missed a little bit down here, you have a little bit of a hole. But don't worry, once you have the lights in there, you won't be able to notice it. And this is, yeah, looks good from far. Yeah. Yeah. See, following of that, once all your diffusion is nicely tested, you got, you're happy with that assembly in the elastic band. It's pretty easy. Just cut it down to your size. You want to make it just a little bit smaller than what the back of your head is so that you have it a little bit taut. You know, you don't want to be too loose because then it'll fall off your head. Just the mistake I did with this one, just a little bit too big. After that, the little pinch ends, you can get them at an angle so that it will fit through once you put them through. So if you have them in like that, they will go through to either put on or take off. So just angle it so it goes in vertically through the slit. And then you can attach your assembled circuit. Did I show that? No, you solder all your wires after the elastic band, and then you could thread, you were shown before, the little brackets through the headband, the elastic headband. And then assembly of the switch, just line it up. It pushes right through. And you should not too much with that. You want to align, you want to make sure that the switch, the actuator switch and the actual switch on the breakout board are both, you know, aligned so when you attach the lid, it goes right on there. Otherwise, you know, they won't line up. And you'll have to try again. Okay. The other thing to watch out for is just make sure that your wires are not being pinched in any way. So you want to sort of make like this, this curved shape so that you fit it through the slit, and then do the snapping of both sides of the lid. After that, you just want to thread the wires through that little slit on the brackets, just so you can hide them. Again, extra step, you can do the little thread in here. What I did was create a little X on these. You can kind of see here with some thread in the needle. Yeah, that doesn't just keep it behind there. Not totally needed, but it's pretty much it. Nice simple little wearable with LEDs in it. Yeah, sure. Costume. Yay. Yep. Again, for me, the biggest nugget on here was having the case for the coin cell, because I'm sure it will come up again. Yeah, it's one of those things that you can reuse for other projects. So very nice. Cool. We got some more comments. Fetty2 had another, just a kind of a cool comment. Looks like they're working on a refresh of the sound reactive drum set so that folks with the Gemma, or the one that was made with their Gemma and a mic, they're doing it with a circuit playground because the Gemma's kind of a little bit outdated these days. So doing with a circuit playground is really, really fun. It's a proof of concept to show folks from a marching band, and probably going to put some lights on the band with the ESP32S3 QT Pi and the new ESP Now Code. Fetty2 is also saying that they do a sewing class in high school here in Costa Rica. So the skills are pretty common. That is great. That is really cool. Yeah, so definitely give it a shot with the the sewing conductive fabric. Though I do wonder how you would, because how would you attach the conductive thread to the surface mount pads? Because normally you have like a circuit with sewable like pins. Yeah, so you would strip the plastic. Oh, the enamel error? Oh, right. Yeah. You can weave it into the fabric and then into that. Okay, yeah, I didn't think of that. Sort of tie around. I think Becky made a video on that how to connect to the thread connecting to an actual wire, but that's one of the ways to do that. If this was going, I would do it that way. Right. And there's several stainless types of conductive thread. I'm not an expert on it, but maybe do a little research and see which one's the best one to use. You know, and then we have sewable LEDs, don't we? The lily pad stuff and then the sequins. Those are sewable. Yeah, these boys. How do we use the thread zone? I know we used it before. We have a couple of the spools. What's the thread? See the past projects that was used in. Let's see. Yeah, there's like two ply, three ply, stainless steel yarn. There's like snaps. Yeah, there's snaps that are kind of cool for a sparkle dress. Yeah. All the Pac-Man suspenders. Oh, all the different thread projects. Yeah, some of the thumbnails are loading. Right. We're eating up all the bandwidth streaming. All right. Well, that's really cool. Yeah, it's always a good kind of different approaches to it. So here you go. Oh, that's what I used it on. Oh, yeah. This is like 2014. Yeah, so like on fabric, that's when I would use it. But yeah, all these LEDs that you see on brandy there, that's how they're all connected. Then we have one of the new pixel readings right on the belly. Right. Yeah, that's super advanced, I think. Cool. I need to redo a lot of these projects. Yeah, I think so. Yeah, the Trinket and stuff, the Gemma. Yeah, the Trinket and the Gemmas are all like these older SAM, not even SAM, M0s or Atmel, 320, whatever. I forget the model number. Yeah, they're all kind of hard to get these days. These days we need a chip that can run circuit Python. Yeah, cool. Yeah, cool. Yep, one of Becky's methods is to use Sobo Snaps, PID 1126, there you go. Yes. Yeah, and then the Sobo NeoPixel, of course. Yes. Yeah, very cool. All right. Yeah, I like doing the simple on-off LEDs every other month because it kind of introduces new people that are just getting started. Yeah, originally we were thinking with the little dot NeoPixels and with like a teensy in the back, but Lamar mentioned that they don't even animate, so let's just go with Sobo. Yeah, in the show they really don't animate. Folks can go all out and do all the fun advanced stuff. Yeah. Cool. All right, that is this week's project. If you want to pick up everything, anything in the shop, we have coupon code BOGATAN, give you 10% off any of the things, physical things in the Adafruit shop. So we got that. Next up, I guess we'll go into what are you prototyping? Yeah. We have a canary light canary in the whole mind. Really, I was going to talk. So next week we're going to finally release the learn guide and video for the Epcot ball. I'll reserve talking about it for next week because it's basically just a bunch of LEDs, a QDPI ESP, no QDPI ESP32 Pico and the WLED firmware. I'll talk about that. Yeah, that'll be next week's project. This is what I've been prototyping. This is going to be a collab project with Katni Rambor, who's on the Circuit Python team. She wanted to do this project where it's an IoT nightlight and she was inspired by a song by They Might Be Giants that talks about a canary nightlight. So this is my canary 3D model. It's been 3D printed. It's a pretty hollow and thin so that it illuminates really nice. And then for the circuit, we're using the QDPI ESP32 S2 and the 5x5 new pixel BFF that stands for best friends. And then I have this little USB-C adapter to USB type A connector and this snap fits into this little base with the new pixels facing up. So this snaps into that. Let me take that off for a second. And then these just snap fit in there. That way it illuminates. And then I'm going to use one of these little 5 volt USB adapters so that I can connect this and then this will connect into the bird like that. That way you can just plug that in to your outlet. So you have a very easy IoT project. I think Katni's doing the code in Circuit Python. So here it is lighting up. I just have the LED animation library just kind of pulsing through different colors. So this is just white PLA. And I think I have the brightness set to 100%. Most of it lights up pretty good. I do have a little bit of like holes and stuff in the bird, but that's because like no support material. But I think it's good enough, right? Like the rest of the bird looks really good. There's angles here that kind of are fine for a 3D printer. You could add support material, but I don't like to use support material. Yeah, sure. And yeah, that's it. So there's 25 pixels here because it's a 5x5 grid. It'll just plug into the wall with this adapter. And that's pretty much it. So we'll have this in two weeks. I think it'll use Adafruit IO to request time. So we'll see about that. Yeah, I'm going to meet with Katni later to discuss the code part of it. But that's one of the future requests too that Lamar had was when the internet goes down. She wants the blinking or something, some way to notify. Is the internet down? Going crazy? Just look at the bird. So it's a canary in the coal mine type thing. Yeah. But for me personally, this was a lot of... What do you call it? It took me... I modeled this in Fusion 360 using the sculpting environment. And I rarely use the sculpting environment. So I learned a lot. I spent a lot of time learning how to do typology correctly so that I can create a solid model out of this. A lot of curvatures. I don't think you can create this sort of thing with sketches and lofting, let's say, revolve. It's very organic. Yeah, the wings and everything. So it was really nice for me to go in there. I went with the polygon style of modeling, but in Fusion with T-splines. I literally started with one plane and just extruded and went all around. They used cemetery so that I would just make one half of the bird and the other half was made and then you fill it in after you're done. But yeah, it was really nice to get experience on doing these organic shapes. So it's all about typology, how good it is. And then you can switch between a smooth and the box model view so that you can really fine-tune your vertices and your subdivisions. So that was cool because I don't really have much experience with polygon modeling. But again, it's not polygons, it's surfaces and T-splines inside of Fusion. I did try, in the surface or in the sculpting environment, you start with a blob and then you mesh the blob. I didn't do that because it's so difficult to get typology out of a pre-made primitive blob. I found it to be very difficult to work with the blob, so I went straight with just the plane and just extruded the plane a hundred times. That's my five-minute explainer on modeling a bird in Fusion. It could totally be done. Yeah, looks good. Thank you. I might get it sent to like, what is it called, PCBWay to get it like a resin print because that would look amazing in resin. But yeah, this is regular PLA. There's a couple of wobbly bits here, but not too bad. There's some holes. You know, it's a bird, it's seen some things. Is asking about gravity sketch, like doing the VR sculpting? Oh, I haven't tried that yet. I don't have a VR headset. I haven't gotten into that, but I've heard some folks use the VR headsets and gravity sketch to create stuff. I was listening to a podcast, an interview, I think on Haxter IO with a fellow who uses that, and that sounded really cool. Yeah, maybe I'll wait for Apple to make a VR headset. One I want to try out for Gavin is one called Nomad, and it's all on the iPad, and it has all these sculpting tools. Oh, yeah. It's just on the iPad. A lot of the like those detailed, crazy looking models, that's where a lot of them are made anyway. Yeah, yeah. Yeah, at some point I got to get into like just straight up like a Z brush approach to modeling where you're literally just sculpting with these sculpting tools. Yeah, that way you don't really have to worry about topology that much or more about like the form of just like a like a traditional sculpting person. Yeah. Yeah, I haven't done that. Challenge for sculpting ease and fusion, getting all the tools right, and if you're the way you want things to behave, don't usually go work out as planned. Like I tried so hard to make this with the inside the sculpting tool and at the end I was like, oh no, I can't do the emboss in there. Oh, that's right. Yeah. Yeah. And then again, I like being able to edit the curve that's controlling how big this is so anybody can go in there and just adjust to their head size. That's one of the things I like. Yep. Yeah, DJ Devon asking, doesn't all the t-spline eventually come down to triangles? Yeah, right at the end. When you export it, yeah. Yeah, there are some approaches to use sketches and extrude that in the sculpting environment and then you could update it later and it would kind of update, but yeah, it depends on what you're making. I always try to get away with sketches and solid modeling as much as I can, but for the bird, I just had to go with this. When it came down to it, this piece here is done with a sketch. This is just a spline curve. And yeah, and then I was able to shell it and then all of this is done with the sketches, like the whole ear is all the sketch, so it's parametric. So you really got to think like, what can I do that needs to be parametric, do that with sketches and everything else you can kind of sculpt around. And then people want to see this in the resin print. Yeah, I definitely do the... Yeah, I should send it off. I have a couple weeks. Sorry, the bird's hungry. Cool. All right, good stuff. I guess for shop talk, I have one other thing and then we'll get into the community makes. I haven't had to do this yet, but like I made a little snap fit case with a live hinge and a live hinge is just this thin piece of plastic that allows you to bend and then with the circular ends of the case, the cover has this like little... I can't zoom into it. Let me do... Let me change my camera angle to ultra wide and then I can go really deep in there. Yeah, so you can see it's got that snap fit geometry that's at a 45 degree angle. Let me full screen that. That way it can print without any supports. It's only a little bit of it. It sweeps along an offset sketch of the end there and then I have some reliefs here for the lip and then on this end, I have a little bit of a nub that sweeps on the inside of the case. So that way when I close it, you got your live hinge. The live hinge is able to bend in all degrees and then you have your lip that fits in there and then that clicks in there and then I added these cutaways here so that like you can get your fingernail to open it again and the idea here is just to have some pennies because like let's say you want to go to a museum and you like penny presses. Yeah, I love penny presses and then this is 0.4 millimeters thick so that's two layers if you have a 0.2 layer height so that's that that I find is pretty good for a live hinge it's strong enough but thin enough to be able to bend and then you could double this as a as a little key ring holder so if you want to put this on your key chain you can use the live hinge to do that and then yeah I haven't had to do this yet so I thought it was a neat shop talk to just talk about a little snap fit change holder and then you can make the thickness as thick as you want or as thin as you want and it has a pretty decent seal and then you can you know put whatever details you want on the sides or something but I thought that was neat I haven't really done a case with a live hinge I don't think. Trying to remember where you've seen right like if we run a live hinge and it comes up is the how what are they yeah the nose thing for the pool like the nose plug or the ear plugs I think right those cases for those like yeah if you wanted to have a case for your nose plugs ear plugs this would be a good option for that and yeah I think 0.4 millimeter thick is going to be plenty strong for several hundred opens and closes but yeah so that's my thing I'll release it if folks want right now I just finished it so you got a request DJ Devan wants a layer by layer okay yeah that sounds good I need to get back into those so this can be a sweet yeah yeah that's a good yeah it's just find it easier to sweep along your curve because then you already have your curve and so that's all good let's see other comments going through here oh yeah it's a good point Yanni saying that you just print the headband ninja flex oh yeah dang it that would have been a good because then I could have had stuff already modeled in there for the case you know yeah I could see it being a little maybe with cheetah ninja flex yeah but those very thin walls where you have those inserts for the leds I could find those to be challenging right so maybe oh no I thought he meant the the elastic part oh no yeah the entire band yeah yeah Mike got away at it so well I think the elastic band is like no print time like something like that's gonna take four hours of print so it depends what you want to do I guess if you want to details and embedded channels maybe go with ninja flex and here's everything I was scared to use in just Lex look how thin that is like that's crazy look at the under extrusion oh it's under extruded yeah that tends to happen a lot within periods um I narrowed it down though it's my nozzle because I printed that same thing nothing changed on the other cruelty v2 pro we have two of those so right on one of them and then the other one was printed on the other v2 and this part came out excellent so it was definitely a nozzle to plong but you could run into that problem where oh yeah heavily under excuse all you can definitely see it there yeah it's like the filament I thought it was my settings I tried like so many times to get it to go right and all I had to do was just change out the nozzle do like a cold pull on it you could also just stick in that area a little bit more and then like chamfer the edges so it depends on what what does this design need push this yeah I guess I could push that over but then it printed fine on the other printer so I was like right yeah well again it was a clog a nozzle right yeah yeah I think I've heard that some of the glitter PLA tends to be abrasive and they're like wear out your nozzle or cause issues down the line so just just be aware of that sometimes a good nozzle a new nozzle is will go many a long way cool and then yeah Devin's saying that sometimes you up instead of trying to get something to buy something hours to print it yeah 50 hours yeah that's a lot that's like the Epcot ball you start printing it now it took a while it takes a long time it's like two days to print one half it's like I could really use a bamboo printer print at the 100 millimeters a second yeah all right cool we're ready for time time on Tuesday community makes yeah yeah this week community makes is I guess your community now know that yeah that's me yeah well I thought it'd be good to time lapse it because it's a fun storage it's got a mechanism and it's printed place and it's kind of this useful thing that can hold you know storage cards flash storage guards uh that's a great and fit all the star wars stuff I should have brought it with me to put the trash cans yeah that'd be fun because they they all look like this they did details yeah yeah nice little hinge to fit the sd cards on it we showed it off last week but what we got in here is the sd cards the little guys and then of course the bigger compact flash that we use on the uh black magic cameras let you fit those and then you have a added an additional storage little area and the spot down in there right whatever yeah switch stuff so if it's in there or mario make sure yeah um uh so I've seen other versions of this and like my story is that like I printed it out and I was excited but then like it just fused when I printed it oh man I really wanted to work and then I looked at the comments and other people had remixes and that inspired me to just give it a go give it a try tried out infusion so I made a parametric and I went from using like these double hinges to just using one linkage instead of two linkages because that's what I was referencing you really don't need two linkages um and it was a challenge to be honest this was a challenge the print it even is still challenging to print because it takes a while to print it takes a while to print because just there's just a lot of movement from the it's from the printer and it's got a lot to do a lot of retractions on it um yeah here's here's mine um so you use the glitter um PLA that turned out okay yeah mine is the silver stuff it was stringy there's still some string on it um but yeah I I kept thickening the the linkage here so I I think in that up quite a bit and even still like I think I noticed yours was underextruded on one linkage yeah because it's a time lapse it's definitely the the time lapse yeah and you can do in the time lapse the video the first attempt it it struck it and yeah you definitely want z-hop I noticed that z-hop alleviated some of my issues too it is a challenging print I'll say it again because like it's just hard to print when you built in linkages that start literally printing in the air because if you look at the cross-section view this hinge right here starts printing in the layer or in mid-air um so one of the things I ended up doing was um creating cut cutaways on the cylinder part of the hinge so that it's a 45 degree angle so it starts with literally one layer and then two layers and then so on and so forth as it's going there but these reliefs here are there just so that um you know it can print in this orientation so that's why there's these slits here and then you have that weird additive where like it it can like do this number which is kind of weird but yeah that's that was a lot of take a look at the Fusion 360 file or the step file if you're using some other CAD and and take a good look at the sketches and the geometry as a whole to see how it works it is challenging to figure out I used Fusion's joints to simulate the joint hinge so that I can see that it's gonna close right and all that and that was hard as well because like sometimes the joints don't work like the way you think they will so it's all trial and error but yeah yeah let's see um oh it took eight hours here quite a surprising way than you think yep the first one did get knocked off that's right didn't know the time that's made things that's why I kept it in there just the way it's because you're using a DSLR camera it has to park its head in order to trigger the camera so maybe that introduces some stuff but DJ Devin did make it and posted a make so here is we're switching over to community makes oh it looks good DJ Devin did print it out and this black filament looks like it worked pretty good it's got some string as well we got some string too it's just all about fine-tuning the temperature I think but sometimes it just happens just clean it up yeah um yeah it's funny because sometimes you'll have it on like a hotter temperature because you're using a different filament and then you forget to switch it yep I had that same issue and then actually another make on this one this week is from Papa Joe they printed it out this is not in French I did translate it but it basically said like they used pet G yeah they used pet G and eventually they got it to work yeah and there's a little bit of stringing there um I find pet G is stringy too like it's very stringy much more stringier than PLA you have to print it hotter like at 240 I think yeah but it looks good yes I'm glad it worked out but yeah I imagine this is going to happen a lot and it's it's it's one of those torture test prints for your printer totally I think this was printed on the uh looks like a proof yeah the prusa i3 yeah it's torture test that you can use later yeah if you have SD cards yep yep yep yep and uh let's see what else is uh this week we have a make from pexel edi they made their they did a remix was this the remix yeah it's a remix of our feather wing e-ink stand this is using a different e-ink display it's a uh m-h-e-t live I think and they just remixed it so that it fits that PCB with some screws looks really nice in that good filament that glitter filament all the rage it's the glitter filament and then this is our first make uh or maybe it's the second make of the disney magic band reader this is for like super ultra disney fans that have magic bands and they want to be able to use their magic band at home when they're not at disney this one uses the scout kit or is it no no sorry the RFID whiz kit from smooth technologies it's an easy way to make projects that work with RFID devices so it's got a new pixel I think a feather right new pixels yeah eight different other up to 2040 the i2s amplifier a mini oval speaker this was like their first project so they're saying that it was a little bit of frustrating because they had to figure out how to solder things but it was a good one it took 20 hours to print everything but yeah it's a bit of a build but it's a good one if you really super fan disney you can customize the circuit python code to you know to make it have different sound effects different audio thingies yeah and you print it on as under three but this really nice yeah the whiz kit uh kit has the um what is it so you can like turn on and off lights so I've seen people attach this yeah like that or their Christmas tree yeah so you know things that are 120 or 220 volt things that are powered by your mains can be uh could be turned on and off with this whiz kit so yeah this was a lot of fun working on it and it's nice to see a fellow disney fanatic go go down the rabbit hole of making their own magic band reader looks like he uh took a picture on that a 50th anniversary uh beach towel oh that's funny you know you know exactly it's a 50th because you can see the five and the zero here yeah that's funny yeah it's a pretty pricey build too because it's like 50 bucks he had a whole breakdown here like the total cost was like 144 plus shipping so there's a lot of stuff in there because you got that really nice amplifier you got the rfid whiz kit you got the neopixel strip you got all those connectors yeah it all adds up but if you are a super fan you can uh you can make one very cool and the last one for this week is uh another insert rig yeah from stanley stayed stately david they made the uh they made their own thing sorry i'm i'm running out of energy here i'm i like seeing people remix this build to use like more traditional parts like the zz 08 608 ball bearings i probably should have did that but it's glad that the i'm glad the community took it on to the round to like remix the parts you know to fit their setup and if they got a ball bearing like this maybe check out using that and they have their own piece of wood and everything but yeah if you're really doing a bunch of um heat set inserts you definitely want to have your own rig and uh yeah so let's see uh my inserts have smaller diameters so reduce the whole yeah i see that a lot too like every every manufacturer of these heat set inserts have different diameters so you want to upgrade your own cad you're getting double checked that they're the same size um they were able to edit it in fusion 360 they're using the abic seven skate bearings that they had on hand and uh some other things about diameters really but yeah it turned out pretty good yay i'm glad people are continuing to make modifications to this open source design very cool yeah i think one of the blog posts this week or next week or one of the weeks is going to be a yeah yeah they made like a tester for testing all the heat sets like for practicing essentially yeah yeah yeah i remember i made my own practice thing too oh yeah and then i was like i got some from McMaster but the ones that we stock of eater food are different um yeah i think there's a video out there from cnc kitchen i was like testing all the different types of heat sets which one's the best one he did like a scientific test of like how much force does it take to pull it out and all this stuff so that's really cool check that one out i think it's cnc kitchen all righty i think we're done yeah right on time that's the big show yep yep next week is a big celebratory 400th episode we'll be featuring the epcot spaceship earth replica uh over 100 leds wled cutie pie all the fun things um then then the bird and then something else see tears of the king well look comes out friday so this friday that's what i'll be working on figuring out what we're gonna be playing the game if you guys have suggestions on what next zelda prop you want to see yeah let's not demar away any ideas yeah before we go coupon code is a is a bokeh tan so if you want to use it we also have another coupon code um tonight on asking engineer so uh lemar and phil will be hosting show and tell i believe tonight excuse me so we'll hope to see you folks there thank you everybody so much for watching and hanging out with us we'll see you next week but until then from two kick me a great day bye everybody