 Hello fellow CRT aficionados. Thank you for joining me again today on Retro Tech. I've got a deep dive special We're gonna be jumping right into this CRT you see behind me. It is a Sony PVM 1943 MD professional video monitor and it is from 1992 so it has just been recapped and Had a lot of other service done to the hardware But now we're gonna jump into the back here and do the calibration for it And just to set up what you're gonna see here on your screen over here on this side you'll notice a Cut in the screen and that third of the screen is behind the monitor I have a camera set up and you could see the potentiometers back there That's how we're gonna control and adjust any kind of adjustment for geometry That we're gonna be doing today and then on the major screen over here behind me There's gonna be the actual screen in different geometry mode so you can see a real time Adjustment on this stuff. I've had a lot of requests to do this So I'm just gonna go through and do a real time. This screen does not look that great. I'll show you what I mean After we get started, but I'm gonna go ahead and back out now and get going and doing some work Let's take a look here first. We've got obviously some Curvature or pen amp settings that need to be adjusted our horizontal shift is shifted This direction so the left side of your screen. It's it's shifted too far over there So needs to be shifted back towards center Vertical center needs to come down and be expanded. Let's look at some test patterns here real quickly The first one will be just a grid pattern the first grid pattern And I can see a lot here. So what I want to first do is I want to try to get this picture centered on this Screen real quickly and to do that I'm going to adjust the horizontal and vertical center Just in the brightness there real quick. So Again, you got to do this while this is running and if your CRT does not have a Service menu like this one does not or any kind of onboard service menu Then you're gonna be stuck using these potentiometers back here in this area to calibrate now there is a Listing along here beside each one of these and it does like point an arrow to which one it is this one right here I'm gonna stick on is the vertical size. So let's just make sure that that's right Well, okay Maybe it's the other one next to it Yeah, there we go. So there's a vertical size Okay, so we'll want to get that I Can see it all and we need vertical center So I could pull the vertical Center this down a little bit. It might be this one. It might not be watch have to test and see that's linearity. So no That's definitely not it either screen bow, but I mean, this is the problem with working on these older ones is you just are gonna sit here and Play with these things to you find the right ones Maybe So our horizontals here. So first ones are horizontal settings. Let's refresh ourselves with what we got our second one is Underscan And so is this one. That's what I was wrong with these two are underscan this one is Vertical size So we got vertical size Horizontal size I wonder if this would be like vertical center or horizontal center. No, that's pin amp and This one is not it either Shift over to these No, okay, so there's Potentiometer is not adjusting it that far. So let me show you something else we can do You could get this back to a center position There's actually an additional Adjuster up here towards the front that's supposed to sweep this a little bit closer Let's do that. Let's see if that'll help us You want to adjust this anymore? Yeah, that's better Okay so I want to get red lines right in the center and then The vertical center so much which one I think this is top one maybe This top blue one Yes, okay, so the top two top two vertical center horizontal center Horizontal size vertical size so we'll have to adjust the vertical size up a little bit more It should be this one right or this one That's a center Size Yeah, there we go So I want it to be you know Really close to that line and then I can take it down a little bit center and then we'll Expand it slightly a bit more say once you recap it it definitely improves Your ability to get in here and make these adjustments. So I've set the screen center in this here The next thing I want to work on is Kind of the pen amp settings. I'm gonna try to clean up these edges Now this edge over here does not look as bad as this edge. This edge is way more pronounced which means there's Slight bit of screen bow And other things going on So before I get in there and adjust like the yoke and stuff I want to make sure that I get this done As well as possible. So Let's do some pen cushion settings Which will be listed on here as we'll probably do a vertical angle bow Pin phase and pin amp Okay pin phase It's gonna help us straighten that corner if possible. So there's one straight side, but this side over here is way blown out You can't really have it like that So try to center that and then they were going to use the pin phase because the pin phase will be like the star wars credits See how it goes And it's just too far out And yeah, that's all it really is is just watching the screen Trying to balance the tops bottoms And the corners may end out other corners just way whacked out Not sure what's going on with the magnetism down here It is It's just off on its own planet. I feel like There's a lot of convergent strips in here. So a lot of those are probably going to have to be removed and reset This convergence is just awful so Let's see if Maybe we can straighten that up a little bit with the screen and angle So let's see if we can get some angle adjustments here To improve that Corner at all Maybe that's the problem. It's really hard though on a larger screen and Do this so you got to Realize that you're not going to be able to get it perfect But the good news is is once you get it set, you know, you're you're going to be well set For a while So that's pretty pretty good. That's a little bit better We'll work on some other things here See whether this can help at all or not I feel like the left side's in pretty good shape, but it's hard to see the right side While you make an adjustment because it's all the way across From the potentiometers the potentiometers are going to favor That left side of the screen when you're looking at it because you're going to be able to see over there easily what you're doing um That's not as bad as I thought but It's not perfect. Obviously it's still a little bit wonky in on the corner down here and then Maybe that's a linearity adjustment will help Uh That screen section right here Maybe it's bubbled out a little bit because the linearity is a little low Or the whole screen's bubbled out a little bit at the bottom still So let's take a first another swing at the pen Pen amp and pen phase we're going to do One last adjustment on there and see if we can make it any better Here's the issue going on there Now just you know the other ones are easier to adjust because they the newer models when they added the service menu Because you've got actual numbers and you can just Change them and change them back easily. This there is no number So you have to just concentrate on one thing at a time one setting And make sure that uh once you're done with that setting it's in the best spot possible for it to be Excuse my head in the way, but Let's see if I can get this This monitor also does not have like a lower and upper pin amp. It just has a one pin amp So I'm going to be kind of equal the distance between the edge at the top bottom And have distance equal kind of at these corners. It's very hard to get it like that though. That's what you're shooting for When you're making that kind of adjustment and to make sure the screen isn't warped or tearing or anything Which again, I think the linearity is off a little bit on that Let's try a linearity adjustment. I believe that's like this one Or the one under it. No, see that's horizontal center again. It's probably horizontal frequency or something Vertical angle vertical bow. It's obviously not it The idea is just to try to get it as best as you can This is again a very archaic way to do this Right, I think this big blue one might be my No, it's a vertical center. I thought that it might save vertical correction No video fades There really is no linearity. Maybe this one. This is the only one I don't But I thought that was going to be size vertically. No, there it is So that's our one linearity Let's go to linearity We have one adjustment for linearity. So we want to make sure our circles are Good and Rounded the best thing to do here is try to make them all as Circular as possible so I know that the camera might lose focus on that because it's trying to Catch something and it's not seeing anything There we go. So that's the linearity adjustment All right, so here is our grid screen once again. We fixed our linearity That did help out with some of the screen bowing So just going back and forth again between those limited settings that we have I don't know that we're going to get like the pin cushion or pin amp or pin a vertical angle and bow And linearity. I don't think we're going to get those really any better So the last thing to do would be expand this size out a little bit and really See how it looks with it expanded. I mean, there might be one little let's try and do Actually one more pin Adjustment because I feel like maybe That's still a little off That's not even the one I wanted. I wanted to do the other one All right, let's do a pin amp adjustment quick and see if we can Man, this is just ridiculous. This is just not very many things you can adjust on these older monitors Thankfully, there's still some but not quite as much as the newer PVMs have Trying to get this as good as possible. I think that one corner is going to be just Kind of messed up down there for a minute might be too far in All right, let's go now and see if we can Take a quick check and see how our Adjustments are looking better So Real quickly here. I'm going to try to straighten this yoke out I'll show you on the secondary camera What that means So Here's my yoke Here on the right hand side of your screen. Here's my yoke and the first thing I'm going to do is Loosen up this little screw right here It doesn't have to be completely loosened But just enough like that and then I'm going to take And Wiggle this just a little bit. Anyway, that's the reason I can't get it so good is I gotta Push that up against it But I'm just going to take my hand and wiggle that so let me maybe back this camera I could see me doing that. Hopefully I'm going to take my hand You know Put it on here now. You have to make sure that your yoke is protected with plastic and everything this one is very You know adjustable some of these if you get into your monitor and there's a bunch of Loose ended wires. You don't want to do this like I'm doing it. That looks way better So we'll try to push the goal is to push the yoke Back against the back of the tube evenly where the black pads are and line it up where It's you know Not tilted the screen is not tilted. That's how you Adjust it It's got to be adjusted where the ring is because that's where the pressure's in put on it To hold it into place It's a tiny fraction of an amount I feel like that's good. So we'll leave my hand right there Tighten this screw back on the yoke a little bit past hand tight and Now we are ready To expand our vertical and horizontal Sides out let's see that yoke adjustment help me get this line vertically and Set correctly and it also will help with my convergence a little bit if I make sure and have it in the proper place so I want to go down here to this Size setting There's our vertical size and that's too big So when we do this we'll go just right there We'll try to adjust the center right down a little bit And see that's right at about perfect on the edge of the grid and then we'll do the same with the Horizontal now That should be this one right horizontal size edge of those grids is pretty much on it, right? See you could see where Our yoke still has a little bit of our one I've told you before in other videos. There's always one corner that just never Seems to get right and this one's probably going to be this corner I mean and then when I say right, I mean perfect. So I don't really know what else I mean, maybe if I could get a vertical angle adjustment, we'll try that Try one vertical angle adjustment Hopefully I can get the right potentiometer here the first time You know that should be it Let's see that's going to mess up the top of the screen as well So let's take a quick look at some other screens Before I completely expand it out And I probably will do that expansion after we get our convergence properly set But that's going to be it. It looks like I bet that it's probably going to be about the best we're going to do for Our geometry as far as screen geometry is concerned. Let's go take a quick look at something like a scroll test real quickly And so the camera doesn't do that well with that scrolling But if we get it slower, it'll work Let's try different scroll tests. There's a second one Maybe it'll do a little bit better with that one No real linearity issues Whew, so that's about all you could do for geometry now The last thing I would do is I would expand the horizontal size and centerness using this test, you know this Grid test I would expand these corners out some more to where It's about halfway between that See that it's magnetized. So that's a good example where it's halfway between That dot and the top line that's where I go for on these edges and I use this first grid to do that That's the 256 by 224 if you're using the 240p test suite And then when I get that grid pulled up again, I'm going to try to expand that just to where the things are just out of view Now there are a couple of other things we can try and quickly adjust here. Let's just do this Um Horizontal set stat or here we go hang on Let's do it h stat adjustment real quickly here while we've got all this set up We might not get our our uh convergent set because I'm I'm thinking it's more of a vertical problem But this is the potentiometer to do that And this will adjust your Red green blue guns horizontally not vertically, but you can't expand them out See which ones are really high or low. It looks like our greens just out of spec Line them up horizontally as best as possible to where You don't see anything on the edges. You know, you just want it to be like that And then you can come down and make a focus adjustment Which is on the back here Of the fly back itself That's this potentiometer and that's going to Make your screen Focus up as as well as it possibly can dial that in and that's going to be it for the actual geometry settings of this pvm What I mean by that is the rest of the settings are be more advanced And they're going to be dealing with They're going to be dealing with the convergence issues So we're going to have to use convergence strips most likely and probably work on An adjustment to the yoke rings. I'm not completely Convinced that's necessary, but I will definitely see if we need to so here's our white Red green blue. We don't seem to have any real purity issues, which is good So that's a that's a plus so So That's going to be pretty much it for the screen geometry now. I will show you what I mean Let's go ahead and expand that out to where I was talking about Halfway between the Like right about there Same thing With horizontal Size and expand it you can even You know Right there And let's go back to your screen here. It looks pretty good I feel like the pin amp needs to Go down a little bit It's like it's bowed out at the corners a little bit like a I'd say this pin cushion settings or you're always going to be playing with them At least you're going to feel like it All right, that's probably about as good as we're going to get it on on there, you know So let's see if I get a little bit more color on that screen for you And we'll go over through and show you these grids just one last time. So there's our grid linearity Blue okay Now That's pretty much done for geometry So that's how you're going to calibrate your geometry on this thing. I mean, that's a real time I'm not sure exactly how long I will edit some parts of this out and I did See that it took me Um, you know right at about 30 minutes. So That's pretty standard 30 minutes. Yeah, maybe a little longer sometimes depending on how bad the screen could be Um, and then you probably spend another 30 minutes working on the convergent shrink So I'll come back and if if we do an advanced convergent shrink session, I will do that next time Thanks again everybody Please make sure you leave me a comment or like if you liked the video Also, let me know if you have any questions and Check out the patreon page for more information on repairs. I'll see you guys next time with some more retro content